Norwood [Archive] - Page 2 - Lateral-g Forums

Sieg

08-07-2012, 10:54 PM

In the words of Jim Carrey in Liar Liar - I've had better.......late night rides. :(

Pictures are worth a thousand words.......
http://sieg.smugmug.com/Cars/69-Camaro/i-LPsrZK3/0/L/IMAG2657-L.jpg

http://sieg.smugmug.com/Cars/69-Camaro/i-XJHBSPQ/1/L/IMAG2661-L.jpg

http://sieg.smugmug.com/Cars/69-Camaro/i-KR8p5zC/1/L/IMAG2662-L.jpg

http://sieg.smugmug.com/Cars/69-Camaro/i-4jPV45M/1/L/IMAG2663-L.jpg

http://sieg.smugmug.com/Cars/69-Camaro/i-2DZb3DD/1/L/IMAG2664-L.jpg

http://sieg.smugmug.com/Cars/69-Camaro/i-DZsLLvx/1/XL/IMAG2665-XL.jpg

No, this wasn't close to big enough for an oil fire.......
http://sieg.smugmug.com/Cars/69-Camaro/i-9JxJFBS/1/L/IMAG2666-L.jpg

The perfect storm...... I've been making float adjustments to minimize braking induced stalling, had it pretty close last night. Tonight I made a quick 1/8 turn adjustment to front and rears, fired it and it was running rich, shut it down and noticed the front float appeared stuck. Losened the adjuster and rotated CCW & CW 1/4 turn fired it and it seemed ok. Headed down the road started smelling fuel, shut it down and had fuel building up in the manifold. Realized I'd accidentally left the adjusting wrench and screw driver on the work bench at home so I tapped the float bowl hard a few times with another screw driver hoping to free it and fired it up, hoping to get it home (1 mile) I hammered the throttle hard in first gear thinking it may clear any debrie in the needle seat and once the car straightened up from the drift I saw the dreaded orange glow in the cowl, shut it down grabbed the extingusher, depleated it, still burning grabbed a towel from the trunk and tried to smoother it and then realized I had a oil fueled fire also. Thankfully two different passer-byes pulled over, one with another larger towel since mine wasn't enough and another with a flat of bottled water, the three of us finally managed to get it out. :hail: Can't thank those people enough, it wouldn't have been pretty without their assistance.

At this time I'm not sure where the oil came from. Possibly (hopefully) a blown oil filter seal or lose filter. Definitely interested in locating the source. Looks like the short Oregon summer is over for this hot rod. :mad:

Irrational PS - Don't ask me how I feel about Barry Grant's Speed Demon carbs right now. I've fought that POS since day one and now this the final and expensive straw. I know, any 4150 can get debrie in the needle, but for some reason beating a dead horse makes me feel little better right now. ;)

Ron in SoCal

08-07-2012, 11:06 PM

Nightmare scenario when your car's on fire. I feel sorry for you dude...:(

FETorino

08-07-2012, 11:08 PM

That sucks. :(

I'm just glad you saved the car and didn't hurt yourself.

Sieg

08-07-2012, 11:16 PM

Nightmare scenario when your car's on fire. I feel sorry for you dude...:(

That sucks. :(

I'm just glad you saved the car and didn't hurt yourself.
Thanks and appreciated Gentlemen.

Always entertaining to test your emergency response preparation.........I failed in the equipment department but am satisfied otherwise. Only a couple minor burns on the right hand/arm. Really makes me fear a house fire. :wow:

In the words of a 2-stroker ATV rider...........damn, it was running REAL hard right before it blew up. :rofl:

Flash68

08-08-2012, 12:52 AM

Wow Scott. So sorry. I have been thru that and when it's all happening right in front of you it's surreal eh? Glad you're ok and it was not worse. :mad:

Vince@Meanstreets

08-08-2012, 01:14 AM

OOOHHHH F*** NOOO!!!! man that sucks but yes it could have been worst.

Roberts68

08-08-2012, 04:13 AM

Glad you kept a clear head and were able to minimize damage.
I'm so sorry that you had to at all.

Mine has been "in" two fires, but was not the source thankfully.

Keep us informed on the process of investigating...
dealing with it.

Greg from Aus

08-08-2012, 04:56 AM

Wow, you are both lucky and unlucky, I hope it works out OK.

Greg

intocarss

08-08-2012, 06:31 AM

Wow Sorry that happen. Main thing is you're OK! The damage looks to be minimum and yes Demon carbs are junk.

Sieg

08-08-2012, 06:43 AM

Dave, Vince, Robert, Greg, and Jerry - Thanks guys. Just came back in from the garage........damn, it wasn't a bad dream. :(

Hopefully some will learn to be better prepared for a fire from this example. You can't have too big or too many extinguishers in situations like this. FWIW this was my first serious fire in 38 years of "tinkering" with cars or bikes.

The people in the two cars that pulled over and jumped into the fray most likely saved the car from being a total loss. Just one additional large towel to smother the fire made the difference. Can't thank them enough.

GregWeld

08-08-2012, 06:58 AM

Sieg

08-08-2012, 07:33 AM

Wow.... When I saw the first pic I thought you'd blown the motor...

When fixing the seat in the Mustang -- the handle for the hard mounted extinguisher was under the seat... with a quick pull pin in it as well.... no way a guy could lean forward enough to get his arm under there - with driving gloves on and pull that pin and then pull the handle. Moved it up to the tranny hump right where I - or a track worker - could see it and pull it.

I have lots of spare parts -- let me know what you need... I also have 3 or 4 fairly decent spray guns -- like a Sata 4000 etc... :unibrow:
Still not sure if the motor didn't let go, didn't feel like it, hopefully it was just the filter gasket failing, but that may be wishful thinking.

Don't think it got the paint. One guy pulled over and told me I should close the hood. :rolleyes: He obviously doesn't know how expensive paint is. :D

Have any spare wiring harnesses? Trade ya a slightly used K&N filter and 650 Demon for one. :unibrow:

GregWeld

08-08-2012, 07:46 AM

Demon carbs are only used to line the bottom of the garbage can....

Sometimes things like this happen and they just force you to take a break - then dig in and finally address all the little things that have needed attention for a long time....

That's how Rudy's "transformation" started out 16 months ago! He needed bushings in the A arms. HAHAHAHAHAHA

I finished his exhaust yesterday - will do a "string" suspension alignment today if I get to it... We'll put seats in on Saturday and maybe he'll take the SOB home Sunday. In the meantime I wrecked the Mustang - and broke that motor... It's all just "car stuff"... same crap we've been doing since we were 16 years old...:rofl: My parents always told me to "grow up"... but I've never be good at taking advice.

Track Junky

08-08-2012, 10:33 AM

Sieg

08-08-2012, 11:04 AM

Wow Sieg, That sucks bud!! Hope your taking it better than me with my mishap. I'm miserable when my car is down.

Greg's right about the Demon carbs. They are junk. Pick up a used Holley and rebuild it. Preferably a 4 corner Idling circuit and screw in air bleeds.
Not real happy as in knot in the stomach type feeling.

I've not liked that carb from the beginning but had enough hours invested to where it was finally running decent so why shelve it when suspension, rear brakes, new intake, and installing Greg's old AFR's where on the top of the priority list.

I have to laugh though because I spent a fair amount of time surfing Quick Fuel's 650 SS BAN series carb the last few days. That $700 dollar carb looks pretty cheap right now. :rofl:

Annular boosters, air bleeds, mechanical linkage, jet extentions, notched floats, and 4 corner bleeds that actually work sound pretty good to me :D Hmmmmm, guess I've got a reason to get it now. http://www.quickfueltechnology.com/carburetors-ss-series/street-carburetor-650-cfm-ban.html

While I'm on a roll........RPM Air Gap, MSD ignition, and throttle cable system too. :woot:

Track Junky

08-08-2012, 12:19 PM

96z28ss

08-08-2012, 02:00 PM

invest a bit more in her, and get rid of the carb and get a Fast EZ efi unit.

Sieg

08-08-2012, 02:28 PM

invest a bit more in her, and get rid of the carb and get a Fast EZ efi unit.

Around $2K more is a big bit :D Don't get me wrong, the Fast EZ system really tempts me but I also like the nostalgic muscle car aspect of the carb. The fuel tank expense for FI is what tips the scale especially when the car's front suspension is still all old school.

Once I have an idea of what went wrong and why and estimate the damage expenses we'll see. The suggestion is a good one and appreciated. :thumbsup:

Rybar

08-08-2012, 02:45 PM

Sorry to hear Seig, glad you and the car made it out ok. That's some scary stuff for sure.

Sieg

08-08-2012, 02:52 PM

This hobby is expensive enough as it is. I would pick up a used Holley 750 HP. Holleys are super simple to rebuild and a 750 is a good base to go with as you can run them with higher or lower hp ranges and jet them accordingly. :yes:

Another thing to add, if you were running a single plane intake the 650 would be fine but the dual planes like bigger carbs.I like the no fluff look of the Holley better that's for sure. Since the car is used far more on the street than track you still think the 750 w/355 ci is the better way to go? The Performer RPM Air Gap appears to be "the versatile" manifold of choice by many though there are numerous manifolds better than my current Torker II.

Track Junky

08-08-2012, 03:56 PM

What duration and lift on the cam? Which AFR's are you using?

Sieg

08-08-2012, 05:04 PM

Sorry to hear Seig, glad you and the car made it out ok. That's some scary stuff for sure.Thank you :thumbsup:

What duration and lift on the cam? Which AFR's are you using?The cam is a hydraulic unkown, no ID on the front end, Comp Magnum roller tip 1.52 rockers. One knoweldgable long-time builder said it sounded and felt similar to the GM "Duntov" pattern and they (GM) made a similar patterned cam in a hydraulic version. It likes(d) to idle around 950-1000, best obtainable vacuum at idle is 10.5-11". It likes to start pulling at 2,500-2,800 starts pulling good around 3500-3800 and at 5500 it feels like the intake impedes progress. :)

AFR's are older 190's w/ 2.00 int. Not sure on the exact cc's as they appear to be 72's that have been surfaced.

Lot's of unknowns but not for long.

Good news is State Farm is covering it, now I need to clarifiy the rules of the game. The agent is a long-time local and friend which should help. :thumbsup:

Track Junky

08-08-2012, 06:29 PM

The cam is a hydraulic unkown, no ID on the front end, Comp Magnum roller tip 1.52 rockers. One knoweldgable long-time builder said it sounded and felt similar to the GM "Duntov" pattern and they (GM) made a similar patterned cam in a hydraulic version. It likes(d) to idle around 950-1000, best obtainable vacuum at idle is 10.5-11". It likes to start pulling at 2,500-2,800 starts pulling good around 3500-3800 and at 5500 it feels like the intake impedes progress. :)

AFR's are older 190's w/ 2.00 int. Not sure on the exact cc's as they appear to be 72's that have been surfaced.

Lot's of unknowns but not for long.

Good news is State Farm is covering it, now I need to clarifiy the rules of the game. The agent is a long-time local and friend which should help. :thumbsup:

AFR heads typically flow better out of the box then any other head. Not sure which ones you are using but with a 2.00 intake valve I would stick with 650. If you are currently running flat top pistons the 72 cc chamber size is going to drop your compression. Typically with flat top pistons and 64 cc combustion chambers you will get about 10.5:1 compression. If you are going to use those heads it's time for some pop ups.

I dont know what heads were on it before but it is possible they could have impeded your rpm range. I know typically advertised range for a cam that starts pulling at 2500 should take you to 6500 but without specifics on the cam its a tough call. If it were me I'd buy another cam just so I knew what I had.

intocarss

08-08-2012, 06:39 PM

Thank you :thumbsup:

The cam is a hydraulic unkown, no ID on the front end,

The ID #'s for the cam could be on the back of the cam

GregWeld

08-08-2012, 06:40 PM

waynieZ

08-08-2012, 07:06 PM

Sorry to hear about this. I'm glad to hear those people stoped to help you. Still some good people left.

Sieg

08-08-2012, 09:39 PM

Sorry to hear about this. I'm glad to hear those people stoped to help you. Still some good people left.

Thanks Wayne - Definitely restored some much needed faith in mankind for myself. :thumbsup:

Sieg

08-08-2012, 09:42 PM

The ID #'s for the cam could be on the back of the cam

That's my understanding assuming it's a GM cam. I don't know why anyone would hide that info other than a drag racer. :unibrow:

Sieg

08-08-2012, 10:12 PM

RIP you POS Demon :D

http://sieg.smugmug.com/Cars/69-Camaro/i-kS6DCw4/0/XL/IMAG2669-XL.jpg

http://advrider.s3.amazonaws.com/dhorse.gif

Bye bye for now you're in good hands
http://sieg.smugmug.com/Cars/69-Camaro/i-tQz4Qp8/0/L/IMAG2670-L.jpg

Todd is handling the initial insurance posturing and once that baseline is established we'll determine who does how much of what.

He's done multiple complete builds for a close friend and worked at another good friends high-end body shop for 15 years so I trust his ability and ethics.

This is one low dollar example
http://sieg.smugmug.com/Cars/Hot-Rods/62-Impala/1179311237_4xUdQ-M.jpg

Track Junky

08-08-2012, 10:14 PM

Outside of the car still looks great :thumbsup:

Sieg

08-08-2012, 10:40 PM

No need to buy another cam -- they can measure the one that he has.... and tell him exactly what he has.

Also -- I have tools that can measure lift... and you could make a pretty good stab at what it is using a degree wheel and cam follower and dial indicator...

The heads were on my 408 motor and work GREAT -- they've been ported... and I spent almost a grand having them gone through AFTER I took them off the motor...

It would be very important to match the valve springs to the cam... and depending on clearances - maybe go to the 1.6 rocker arms.
The cam performance curve feels decent to me but it would be nice to know specs. After all this is a seriously high tech 1st gen small block. :D

Did you run flat top pistons in the 408? I'm running flatties and will get the heads cc'd to eliminate unkowns. IIRC the existing valve springs are 403 lb rate with 175 lb seat.......they'd probably break my old skool cam's back. :)

Here's my current set-up..........please don't laugh out loud, it has worked flawlessly for 22+ years. :P
http://sieg.smugmug.com/Cars/69-Camaro/i-RRGs7h5/0/L/IMAG2643-L.jpg

The heads, new intake & carb, and MSD ignition considering the suspension and tire combo should wake the motor up nicely until I can build a real motor. The bar in Oregon and especially Eugene/Springfield isn't raised as high as CA & WA so I can hold it down longer and break harder to compensate for wimpy motor. :unibrow:

Sieg

08-08-2012, 10:41 PM

Outside of the car still looks great :thumbsup:Thanks, we both know its the Orange........Stielow is learning. :unibrow:

Sieg

08-08-2012, 11:04 PM

Regarding the oil source during the fire........appears the mechanical oil pressure guage line melted through quick and turned into an oil jet spraying up on the hood. If you look at the picture you can see clean area just above the master cylinder. Surprising how much oil that little orifice can pump at 50-60 psi considering how fast I shut it down. I went back to the scene today and the oil trail is less than 100 yds and began 250 yds from where I launched.

Yes, there will be an electric guage and sending unit replacing it.

I haven't a chance to perform an autopsy on the carb yet.

Track Junky

08-08-2012, 11:42 PM

Flash68

08-09-2012, 12:03 AM

Outside of the car still looks great :thumbsup:

yeah it does! :woot:

Sieg

08-09-2012, 05:31 AM

My guess is you were using a plastic oil line? Stick with the mechanical gauge and get yourself a steel braided line.

I wouldn't waist anytime on the carb. Junk it and chalk it up to education costs.
It was the plastic line supplied with the gauge when I bought it 20 years ago. We have a great hose and fitting supplier locally that can make a custom supply line for me. Thanks for the advice, I'll check my options with them.

I want to know what caused the fuel leak if possible and I'll be stripping the carb for spare parts anyway.

Roberts68

08-09-2012, 06:07 AM

This is one low dollar example
http://sieg.smugmug.com/Cars/Hot-Rods/62-Impala/1179311237_4xUdQ-M.jpg

I have either seen that car before or one very similar. I think it was on "My Classic Car" with Dennis Gauge. What a garage too, the wood is beautiful... not exactly my thing, but very appreciable.

Sieg

08-09-2012, 06:37 AM

Roberts68

08-09-2012, 07:01 AM

Possibly Good Guys Pleasanton?

possibly?

Hard to say. I soak up that and a few other shows off the DVR with my coffee on an occasional weekend. He does a lot of cool car shows/events with a few interviews of participants at each one. My girlfriend can hardly stand his mannerisms and exaggerated hand jestures, catch phrases etc... Someday I would love to have a picture of the two together if I ever see him at a show. It is fun to annoy, to an extent.:unibrow:

GregWeld

08-09-2012, 07:21 AM

I have either seen that car before or one very similar. I think it was on "My Classic Car" with Dennis Gauge. What a garage too, the wood is beautiful... not exactly my thing, but very appreciable.

Car was for sale at GoodGuys PUYALLUP just a couple weeks ago... I looked at it just to see what was up. $30 some thousand was all he was asking.... so I assume (since the hood wasn't open and nobody was around) that it's a 350 ci...

I took pics of it because it had INTROS --- and was going to use the pics to pester FETornio in a future post. :rofl:

FETorino

08-09-2012, 08:31 AM

Car was for sale at GoodGuys PUYALLUP just a couple weeks ago... I looked at it just to see what was up. $30 some thousand was all he was asking.... so I assume (since the hood wasn't open and nobody was around) that it's a 350 ci...

I took pics of it because it had INTROS --- and was going to use the pics to pester FETornio in a future post. :rofl:

$30k it's like your buying the Intros and getting the car for free :yes:

:cheers:

Sieg

08-09-2012, 08:57 AM

$30k it's like your buying the Intros and getting the car for free :yes:

:cheers:

:rofl: :woot:

Greg - The car is a great driver, pretty sure its a ZZ4 350 w/ OD auto. It has great curb appeal even with the Intro's. :D Price is very reasonable considering the quality and build cost.

intocarss

08-09-2012, 05:46 PM

Yes, there will be an electric guage and sending unit replacing it.

If you'd like to keep your Mech gauge, just go to a teflon braided line with AN fittings. That is what I run

And post some pics of you taking a sledge to that POS demon carb ;)

Sieg

08-10-2012, 06:19 AM

And post some pics of you taking a sledge to that POS demon carb ;)That statement says something about Demon's reputation and performance coming from a drag racer. :D

I had another racer suggest the Holley HP yesterday. I'll be meeting with another local engine builder to determine a cam, valve train, induction, and ignition plan for the motor with the AFR heads.

The Unilite distributor was barbequed so an MSD system is probably happening.

I contacted someone to build a braided line yesterday. :thumbsup:

Sieg

08-10-2012, 10:05 PM

I've been grinding out a parts list today to help the adjuster out next week. If you see any obvious over-sights or have any advice please let me know. :thumbsup:

Air Cleaner Housing - Summit 14" chrome SUM-G3000 Modified to clear Demon air horn $21.95
Air Filter - K&N 14" x 3" E3737 $59.95
Barry Grand Speed Demon 650VS elec choke carb 1282010VE $456.47 (with many hours of tuning, drilled pump nozzles, power valve, jets, pump cam, etc.)
Carb fuel feed lines Russell RUS-641180 $73.95
Carb to fuel pump Summit SUM-G3154 $39.95
Carb spacer 1" MGR-6005 $20.95 (existing should be OK)
Carb base gaskets Edelbrock EDL-3899 $6.95
Throttle return springs Holley HLY-20-89 $14.95
*Edelbrock fuel pump EDL-1721 $94.95
Edlebrock Torker II intake manifold 5001 $134.95 not incl temp and PVC fittings, gaskets, bolts.
Mallory Unilite Distributor 3748202 $275.95
Mallory MAA-700 coil ballast resistors $16.95
Mallory MAA-28720 Promaster Coil $95.95
Taylor Cable TAY-73051 8mm plug wires $61.95 (labor to fit to looms)
Trans-Dapt TRD-9370 Wire Looms $14.95
Oil pressure guage line (mechanical) Autometer ATM-3223 $7.69 (Will use Summit SUM-G2961 $29.95 braided steel)
Valve covers SUM-G3301 $24.95
Valve cover gaskets Mr. Gasket MRG-5860 $14.95
PCV grommet Summit SUM-G3410 1” $1.50
Breather grommet Summit SUM-G3411 .75” $1.50
K&N Breather 1” nipple KNN-62-1170 $18.95

PCV line 1.5’ .5/16” ID?

*Tremec T56 Magnum vent line? Check condition

Engine wiring harness Classic Ind. CA97524 $84.99
Front lighting harness Classic Ind. CA97541DI $189.99 (check fitment)
Water temp line 4’ -3 AN Summit ATM-3235 $49.95
Throttle lever Classic Ind. 3923503 $16.95
Battery cable pos. Starter 48” Classic Ind. N153 $12.99
Battery cable neg. Alternator 32” Classic Ind. N130 $12.99

*Windshield wiper motor Classic Ind. A40140 $142.99
Grommets Classic Ind. 4910180 $9.95
Wiper motor to firewall seal Classic Ind. CA180 $2.99
Washer pump Classic Ind AC Delco G7028 $68.99
Washer hoses
Wire gutter Classic Ind. 3864327 $7.95
Hood to Cowl Seal Classic Ind . 3927464 $8.95
Heater hose set Classic Ind. C1 $19.99
Upper radiator hose Classic Ind. 3956662 $19.99
*Lower radiator hose Classic Ind. MH401 $9.99

*Starter motor? Classic Ind. G7243 $160.99 (Summit mini?PMW-9000 $176.95)
*Alternator?? Summit PWM-27297 $141.95
*Timing cover Milodon Summit MIL-65555 $30.95

*unsure of condition

I'm assuming the new Wilwood master valve and proportioning valve is OK

Exhaust system will need to be cut and rewelded again to remove transmission unless it's pulled out the front attached to motor. Accessing the upper Quicktime Bellhousing bolts with trans bolted up is probably not an option. Drilling the firewall for access to the allen head bolts might be possible. Might be faster out the front. Bellhousing to shift tunnel clearances are very tight. Remove console to access shifter tunnel cover plate.

Vince@Meanstreets

08-11-2012, 12:41 AM

GregWeld

08-11-2012, 06:07 AM

Sounds like a complete rotisserie re-do to me....

This is how Rudy's Camaro started --- and then with all the work just to get it torn down -- you start with the "well... as long as we're here we might as well do....."

Ya know what - 16 months later - it's worked out just fine. We've fixed everything that was ever wrong with the car... so he's going to have a real decent car now. :D

Sieg

08-11-2012, 06:58 AM

Barry Grand Speed Demon 650VS elec choke carb 1282010VE $456.47 (with many hours of tuning, drilled pump nozzles, power valve, jets, pump cam, etc.)
this should be in the $7-800 range. They are out of business so it should be considered a collectors item.:yes:
It's close enough to get a Holley HP especially if I get compensated for tuning labor which I will add to that list. :yes:

I'm tempted to spray that Demon with clear and make a pedestal for it. :unibrow:

Sounds like a complete rotisserie re-do to me....

This is how Rudy's Camaro started --- and then with all the work just to get it torn down -- you start with the "well... as long as we're here we might as well do....."

Ya know what - 16 months later - it's worked out just fine. We've fixed everything that was ever wrong with the car... so he's going to have a real decent car now. :D
...........I wish you were my brother-in-law. :unibrow:

........I know........wish in one hand poop in the other and see which one fills up fastest. That summarizes poor Norwood's life. :D

Sieg

08-11-2012, 09:52 AM

Moved the new ride into the garage today:

http://sieg.smugmug.com/Cars/69-Camaro/i-T2VS3qs/0/L/IMAG2672-L.jpg

Zoom-zoom baby :unibrow:

Roberts68

08-11-2012, 12:46 PM

Sieg

08-11-2012, 04:37 PM

Let the teardown commence!

Are you making any mods to the sub? I picked one up awhile back that needs a little tlc To the right front, in front of the crossmember. It looks like somebody did some redneck towing around the woods or bumped into it when it was sitting for the last several years.

I was happy to find one that is solid and straight as far as suspension and body mounts are concerned.

Your list looked pretty thourough, but I would echo Vince somewhat on labor raising value but it is hard to justify. Also, I thought BG was back... even if someone bailed them out?

Well the subframe plan was to do arms, geometry, real shocks, and spindles but that money is probably gone with upgrades associated with the fire. Since the motor needs to come out for insurance work that creates an opportunity to install the heads, properly reseal the oil pan, new headers with good flanges and improved clearances would be an improvement. A mini-starter to replace the stocker........it never ends. :D

The sub I have is pushed inward slightly just to the rear of the upper control arm mount but those frames don't look to be too hard to tweak IMO. I've checked the width and triangulated spec measurements it doesn't appear to be more than .25" out but I haven't checked the vertical dimensions yet. Once I get torn down and cleaned up I'll get it straighted and weld up the seams for additional strength have it blasted and powdercoated.

I'll be working with the restoration shop on fairly capturing labor where-ever possible. Every dollar adds up even though the itemization takes a fair amount of time. Wire, terminals, and fasteners add up fast.

I believe BG was bought, I'm thinking I heard by Summit.

Rick D

08-11-2012, 06:23 PM

Wow Sieg sorry to hear about this but hat least you caught it so you stil have a car to rebuild. Keep going you'll get it back on the road in no time! :thumbsup:

intocarss

08-11-2012, 06:45 PM

She'll be back.. Bigger, Better, Faster & REV approved!!

Sieg

08-11-2012, 06:55 PM

Wow Sieg sorry to hear about this but hat least you caught it so you stil have a car to rebuild. Keep going you'll get it back on the road in no time! :thumbsup:
Thanks Rick, it'll happen. :yes:
She'll be back.. Bigger, Better, Faster & REV approved!!Rev is having separation anxiety.
http://sieg.smugmug.com/Animals/Puppies/Rev/i-hC52RmD/0/M/IMAG1362-M.jpg

WSSix

08-11-2012, 07:46 PM

GregWeld

08-11-2012, 09:01 PM

Moved the new ride into the garage today:

http://sieg.smugmug.com/Cars/69-Camaro/i-T2VS3qs/0/L/IMAG2672-L.jpg

Zoom-zoom baby :unibrow:

I've seen that thing somewhere!!

Can't remember exactly - so long ago....

Hey! We actually drove Rudy's today! OMG... that car came out killer!

Sieg

08-11-2012, 10:24 PM

Man, I can't believe I missed this. Sorry for the troubles Sieg but I'm glad it wasn't so bad.

I've never liked mechanical oil pressure gauges because of the simple fact that you are bringing hot oil into the car. There's no reason to not use an electric gauge from now on. Corvettes have a electrical aftermarket upgrade for the factory gauge. I'm sure there's one out there for the Camaro. I'd upgrade to electric.Thanks Trey. I'll probably run a braided line to the existing guage for a quick fix now. At sometime I'd like to have a 5" and 2-5/8 Pro Comp guage cluster or the Stack dash module.

I've seen that thing somewhere!!

Can't remember exactly - so long ago....

Hey! We actually drove Rudy's today! OMG... that car came out killer!You DNA is still all over that thing. :D
Look familiar?
http://sieg.smugmug.com/Cars/69-Camaro/i-2hm8mSm/1/M/IMAG2674-M.jpg

Started the disassembly tonight, did you Weld the other top brake bracket fastner in? I don't have enough heat or horsepower to get it lose. 3/8" hex 1/2" drive impact socket will be purchased tomorrow.
http://sieg.smugmug.com/Cars/69-Camaro/i-69LFQ6f/1/M/IMAG2676-M.jpg

Where are the pictures of Rudy's ride!? Break your iPhonie? :mad:

Track Junky

08-12-2012, 06:16 AM

Sieg, if your on a budget all you need for now are upper control arms, sway bar, and stiffer springs. Weld the seams on the sub. Try and squeeze a Speed Direct rack-n-pinion into the budget. They are hassel free and bolt right up. That will eliminate the steering box and all the steering linkage which is great for clearance and weight loss and most importantly give you excellent steering response.

As far as motor goes, give those heads back to Weld and get some with a 64cc combustion chamber and 2.05 intake valve and run flat tops. May as well get a get a crank shaft while your at it and build yourself a 383. Get the forged rotating assembly from Eagle. Run a Comp 280 Solid Magnum cam if you are running power brakes. If no power brakes jump to the 292. Victor Junior intake and Holley 830 HP. That should get you around 500 hp.

Sieg

08-12-2012, 11:28 PM

Gaetano,

I'm leaning to SPC uppers/lowers, good double adjustable shock, already have stiff low springs, the spare subframe came with Hotchkis lowered BB springs and 1-1/8 tubular sway bar. Just installed a new Lee 12.7 firm steering box. :(

Since the motor is coming out installing the heads are the priority. I'm going to get the heads cc'd and see what I have. The heads, carb, intake, and ignition whould be a decent improvement from where it was. Until the insurance adjusters inspection next week I'm somewhat in the dark.

A real motor would be nice, but I'd be real happy with one that runs right now. :D

Thanks for the input.

Vince@Meanstreets

08-12-2012, 11:45 PM

trust me , you'll be happier with that Lee box. Don't be sad at all. :yes:

Sieg

08-13-2012, 09:03 AM

trust me , you'll be happier with that Lee box. Don't be sad at all. :yes:
No complaints, the firm valving makes a big difference. If I had all new tie-rod ends and control arm bushings it should be pretty precise.

Sieg

08-13-2012, 08:52 PM

Since the car is at the hospital, hopefully in short-stay, it allows time to get some work done on the spare subframe I picked up...........Any subframe advice is appreciated since I've never been down this road before.

http://sieg.smugmug.com/Cars/69-Camaro/i-KCXGRRq/0/XL/IMAG2683-XL.jpg

Tonight I did an amatuer job of checking the frame to get a rough idea of how tweaked it is. It doesn't appear to be to bad, the drivers rear mount is outward about .5", the upper control arm mounts measure out uniform width and level. I feel pretty confident that I can take it to the frame shop and not be told it's a lost cause.

What I want to do is get it straightened, clean up the wire splatter and sloppy factory welds, strip it (I'll assume media blasting is the quickest and cheapest), patch in where the subframe connectors were welded in and cut out, possibly cut out and patch in the underside of the motor mount cross member since it looks like it lost a fight with a floor jack numerous times, clamp and weld the center skid-ski where it's lose at the front, then weld up the seams in the rail, relocate the upper control arm mounts and fill in the old, sand it down and have it painted.

Does that work and sequence make sense?

makoshark

08-13-2012, 09:38 PM

Will a frame shop straighten a subframe without it attached to the car?

Do all the welding work on the frame before you have it blasted

Roberts68

08-14-2012, 05:31 AM

I'm going to pay close attention to this as I will be on this track eventually too with the spare sub I picked up. Please keep the updates rolling out as you progress.

I am pretty envious of your mobile workstation/alignment rack that you have(aka trailer). I won't be so fortunate but it could inspire a cart of some sort. I only have 2 stalls to play in and a somewhat steep driveway.

I have similar intentions to what you laid out. In contrast to Mako's suggestion I talked to a local blaster and he was willing to blast mine at the start and then do it again to clean it up before paint/coating. That said, mine has a good deal more surface rust. I figured it would save me some surface prep work and thereby preserve more metal that way.

Mine also has the passenger side frame horn kicked up in front of the crossmember where the bumper attaches. Some chooch tried to repair it before with some blow through chicken poop welding attempt.:(

Have you seen This Jack plate from Screamin Performance? (http://screaminperformance.com/parts/jack_plate.htm)

Sieg

08-14-2012, 05:52 AM

Thanks Robert. That trailer has been handy over the years.

I'd thought about plating it for strength, hadn't thought about weld slots or tie down hooks. :thumbsup:

glassman

08-15-2012, 09:46 PM

DFRESH

08-15-2012, 10:44 PM

Sieg

08-16-2012, 05:20 AM

Are you painting or powder coating the sub? Powder just seems to hold up better from the rock chips, oils/road grime, salt...I powdered everything under mine 'cept the subframe, but that will be phase two...

Sorry to hear about the fire, scary sh...t.

What KTM do i spy in the back round? The white fender indicates that it an '11 or newer? That's my main drug, cant ride till march due to a shoulder injury

Thanks glassman,
I'll powercoat if finances allow it.

Fire isn't any fun, can't imagine a house fire.

'11 KTM 300XC, just sold it :( for a real good price ;) They've been my main drug since '71. :thumbsup:

Sieg

08-16-2012, 05:47 AM

Wow!! Just saw this tonight! Sorry to hear about all of this---

I've lived through this once with the Green 69--it sucked. The good part was exactly what you are getting to do now--address some of the things you wanted to. Take care of the motor and frame stuff---you don't get too many opportunities to have both out of the car at the same time--you can always put suspension under it later (Control arms, spindles, etc). I would take the chance and rewire the front half of the car since you have it apart---upgrade wire diameter where necessary, relays, etc. Make it safe from an electrical standpoint as well. Just watch out--like Greg mentioned--otherwise you can end up with a complete tear down and a couple of years of downtime. Keep scope creep under control---funds usually force this upon us--however credit cards scream their loudest in moments like these. Keep us posted on progress---

D
Thanks Doug,
Currently waiting on State Farm's adjuster to inspect, when that happens we'll be able to act vs speculate. ;)

The two front wire looms need to be replaced IMO, I've figured OEM from Classic Ind. or equivalent. All new front and dash looms from American would be nice but I don't have huge electrical demands with a Gen 1 motor, no AC, manual windows, and no radio. Any advice on looms would be appreciated.

If I can get the new frame under it that would be nice, but it's an outside chance at this point. The front of the car was hit at some point in it's life and the sheet metal alignment isn't good. A new core support would be a good starting point as I think it's high on the driver's side........back to that scope creep issue.

No CC charging on this project, last time a ran a credit card up (thanks to a friend's inspiration) was my first and last and that was in '79. ;)

Rick D

08-16-2012, 06:57 AM

Thanks Doug,
Currently waiting on State Farm's adjuster to inspect, when that happens we'll be able to act vs speculate. ;)

State Farm hasn't been there yet?? Here in IL they have to inspect the lose within 48 hrs of reporting the lose. How long as it been already?

No CC charging on this project, last time a ran a credit card up (thanks to a friend's inspiration) was my first and last and that was in '79. ;)

Good for you Sieg on not building a CC car or home loan car! Same here on CC they are for when you need them or if I make a purchase and don't want to bring cash, but then I will pay it off at the end of the month. They don't like me at all, I used to run a balance and they liked me much more back then.

Sieg

08-16-2012, 08:49 AM

State Farm hasn't been there yet?? Here in IL they have to inspect the lose within 48 hrs of reporting the lose. How long as it been already?
I received a claim number on Friday, my agent inquired yesterday, so hopefully today.

Good for you Sieg on not building a CC car or home loan car! Same here on CC they are for when you need them or if I make a purchase and don't want to bring cash, but then I will pay it off at the end of the month. They don't like me at all, I used to run a balance and they liked me much more back then. I was 20 or 21 and still remember opening my CC bill and seeing a balance of $2,400, looked at the minimum payment, and then at the interest and thought about it a bit and grabbed a pair of scissors and cut the card up.

Thankfully I took that approach then and the experience has stayed with me.

Rick D

08-16-2012, 09:08 AM

Yup that's why my car still isn't finished :lol: But I'm good with that. I just wait for deals to come up on the forms or eBay and then if I have the cash I will buy if I don't then the car doesn't get more parts!

So far other then some body panels and the q-link I'm trying to finish the deal on right now, I have bought all my parts at a discount. DSE mini tubs and frame connectors on eBay saved a bunch, DSE 9" housing and axles for the q-link from Ron which I stole from him :thumbsup: What a good friend he is! Just got a great deal on a set of new tires from Marty! I will finish it before my son and daughter drive :lol: Oh wait that's in 6 years :willy:

Thats my goal to build the best car I can afford!

Let me know if you need anything for under you hood I may have some good stock stuff that you could use :thumbsup:

Sieg

08-16-2012, 09:50 AM

Let me know if you need anything for under you hood I may have some good stock stuff that you could use :thumbsup:
Thanks, it appears most of the stuff damaged with the exception of wiring is aftermarket. Ron generously helped me out with a wiper motor. :thumbsup:

I'm pretty much resolved to the fact the car will never be completed and will continue to improve as finances allow. :yes:

Sieg

08-16-2012, 05:14 PM

Stopped by the shop and saw the car for the first time since the fire. It's sitting right next to a very nicely restored '63 Corvette split window........that was comforting.

The adjuster has been by and now they are having an investigator stop by to determine the cause of the fire. They must not want to pay for a new carb :_paranoid Hopefully that inspection happens tomorrow and we'll know where we stand and can plot a course.

The plan is to pull all the front sheet metal and slip the engine and trans out the front intact. This could be a golden opportunity to fix the drivers headlight bucket fit/alignment that I suspect is due to a accident distorted core support.

The owner mentioned if I want to change out the subframe he could bring the roller back to my house which could work out well if the stars align properly. :thumbsup:

Rick D

08-16-2012, 06:40 PM

Sieg not sure if it was mentioned but they will pay for the damage from the fire, but they do not pay for the part that CAUSED the fire! I've seen this many times. Once we had a Jag V12 with an engine fire in the shop, they payed for all the damage that was caused by the fire, hood repaint, fuel lines so on and so on. But they didn't pay for the wiring which they said caused the fire. That's why they send out an inspector!

Sieg

08-16-2012, 09:05 PM

Can't imagine they'd be suspicous of Lucas electrics. :rofl: What really hurts is having to pay for more of their stuff. Assuming it was an XK V12.

Sieg

08-20-2012, 09:47 PM

Since Norwood is in the shop I needed a pacifier so I brought another black and orange
adrenaline pump out of storage for an occational fix. :unibrow:

http://sieg.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/KTM-SDR/i-pC8KBkc/1/M/IMAG2725-M.jpg

glassman

08-20-2012, 09:49 PM

mmmmmmm. I love orange and black. KTM got their first outdoor American title..woo hoo...Why you' let the 3hunny go?

Track Junky

08-20-2012, 09:54 PM

Nice! :thumbsup:

Sieg

08-20-2012, 10:06 PM

mmmmmmm. I love orange and black. KTM got their first outdoor American title..woo hoo...Why you' let the 3hunny go?
I had an offer I couldn't refuse and too little time to ride. It helped fund the T56 conversion, C5 brakes, and HTP MIG/TIG/Plasma equipment. :yes: Hopefully the insurance work goes smooth and maybe we'll see some front suspension enhancements.

Sieg

08-20-2012, 10:22 PM

Nice! :thumbsup:
Here's some internals.........

http://sieg.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/KTM-SDR/26398f9846501d1fab9o/370778372_DFJKW-L.jpg

http://sieg.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/KTM-SDR/264011bb3ba0dd9f099o/370779048_7CEr7-L.jpg

http://sieg.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/KTM-SDR/263967375d54f439b28o/370777265_vJkZ6-L.jpg

http://sieg.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/KTM-SDR/IMGP4488/437117781_BeLM7-L.jpg

http://sieg.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/KTM-SDR/IMGP5252/642618094_i6oJD-L-1.jpg

Approx. 3.16 lbs per rwhp.

Track Junky

08-20-2012, 10:28 PM

You got me drooling Sieg.....Thats some sweet looking iron :unibrow:

Sieg

08-20-2012, 11:10 PM

You got me drooling Sieg.....Thats some sweet looking iron :unibrow:
Name the turns buddy!

http://sieg.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Track-Day/Thunderhill-5-2010/JR1N4882/856987486_yBY4s-L.jpg

http://sieg.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Track-Day/Thunderhill-5-2010/JR1N6911/856992228_gEtRb-L.jpg

:thumbsup:

Rick D

08-21-2012, 03:26 AM

Nice!! :thumbsup:

Track Junky

08-21-2012, 08:44 AM

Name the turns buddy!

http://sieg.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Track-Day/Thunderhill-5-2010/JR1N4882/856987486_yBY4s-L.jpg

http://sieg.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Track-Day/Thunderhill-5-2010/JR1N6911/856992228_gEtRb-L.jpg

:thumbsup:

Thats fricken awesome dude!! You just made my day! :cheers:

Alright, I got some help showing up outside soon so real quick,,,,12 and 13 for the first two and I dont have time to disect the last one but dont tell me and I'll be back. :thumbsup:

Vince@Meanstreets

08-21-2012, 08:54 AM

I know I know....think tree dude.

Sieg

08-21-2012, 09:57 AM

Thats fricken awesome dude!! You just made my day! :cheers:

Alright, I got some help showing up outside soon so real quick,,,,12 and 13 for the first two and I dont have time to disect the last one but dont tell me and I'll be back. :thumbsup:
@Vince, with so many trees out their how will he ever figure it out. :D

Hmmmm, more Orange Track Junky porn?

http://sieg.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Track-Day/Thunderhill-5-2010/JR1N5596/856989190_hia7s-L.jpg

http://sieg.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Track-Day/Thunderhill-5-2010/JR1N2357/856985997_YnWxL-L.jpg

http://sieg.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Track-Day/Thunderhill-5-2010/JR1N1718/856985437_qTNiU-L.jpg

:thumbsup:

Blake Foster

08-21-2012, 10:07 AM

those don't look like 200tw tires??

Sieg

08-21-2012, 11:09 AM

those don't look like 200tw tires??Pirelli Dragon Super Corsa DOT's about $265 a set from track day vendors.

T-2 at T-Hill can be tough on tires if your air pressure is a little low. 22 psi cold Ducati 1098
http://sieg.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Track-Day/Thunderhill-5-2010/IMGP5972/856736923_qxnPx-L-2.jpg

Better air pressure worse suspension set-up, rebound, compression, and preload need some attention. 24 psi cold Ducati 1098
http://sieg.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Track-Day/Thunderhill-5-2010/IMGP5973/856737019_8oVu5-L-2.jpg

Relatively close air and suspension settings. 26 psi cold KTM 1190, less tq than the Ducati.
http://sieg.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Track-Day/Thunderhill-5-2010/IMGP5978/856747633_c5PWL-L.jpg

Here's one of many tuning videos by cycle suspension guru Dave Moss:
http://youtu.be/nhhSBwclJCo

Just because it's cool here's the KTM RC8 track bike with a 45/200/17 Michelin Slick:

http://sieg.smugmug.com/Other/KTM/i-ThfpHmz/0/XL/IMAG1926-XL.jpg

Track Junky

08-21-2012, 03:58 PM

Alright I'm back. All I could come up with is turn 10. :_paranoid

Sieg

08-21-2012, 09:09 PM

Alright I'm back. All I could come up with is turn 10. :_paranoid
In all honesty I'm not positive but I think it's T-11.....uphill tight left-hander. I remember Dito down in the grass between T-10 & 11 and I think the tree is in the pit area even though it looks closer. :thumbsup:

Found this video shot a year prior: http://youtu.be/hvBr5u1uQKg if nothing else it's a good watch and I'd definitely take that car out for a session there. :yes:

Track Junky

08-21-2012, 09:20 PM

I think your right. I was going to edit my response and say 11 after rethinking that chain link fence.
Those pics you added are awesome. I cant wait to get back there.

Sieg

08-21-2012, 09:55 PM

I think your right. I was going to edit my response and say 11 after rethinking that chain link fence.
Those pics you added are awesome. I cant wait to get back there.
:thumbsup:

Thanks, it's a great bike track too.....except T-3 is sketchy on a bike I can't wait to get back to T-Hill and Casa Ramos :unibrow:

Sieg

08-22-2012, 10:01 PM

Stopped by the shop today for a status report and they'd just received the green light from State Farm. The inspector doesn't think the fire was caused by the carb, possibly a fuel line leak. Reasoning was the venturi's would be blackened and they are clean. Looks like they might be supplementing a new Holley HP.

GregWeld

08-23-2012, 07:18 AM

Well that's good news!!!

Sieg

08-26-2012, 07:33 PM

Since AMD discontinued their '69 subframe I figured an attempt at salvaging the one I have was in order. If nothing else I figured I'd learn more fabs skills.

http://sieg.smugmug.com/Cars/69-Camaro/i-CNrrwWs/0/XL/IMAG2743-XL.jpg

http://sieg.smugmug.com/Cars/69-Camaro/i-2zPGNtn/0/L/IMAG2736-L.jpg

http://sieg.smugmug.com/Cars/69-Camaro/i-7hD3pNp/0/L/IMAG2753-L.jpg

http://sieg.smugmug.com/Cars/69-Camaro/i-9mqsrjC/0/L/IMAG2742-L.jpg

http://sieg.smugmug.com/Cars/69-Camaro/i-Kr77xHr/0/L/IMAG2752-L.jpg

I think there's hope.

The current plan is to install a piece of 6 ga. in the cross-member with two vertical risers to eliminate any jack damage.

Constructive criticism and other abuse welcome. :thumbsup:

waynieZ

08-26-2012, 08:15 PM

It looks like you got a good start on it.

intocarss

08-26-2012, 08:27 PM

Looking good Sieg

GregWeld

08-26-2012, 09:46 PM

Just straighten the piece you cut out -- now that you can work on it - and weld IT back in. Drill a nice hole in it in a couple places --- before you weld it back in -- locate and drill the other "side" (since your bit won't go thru both pieces with the big gap).... and when you weld the piece back in - stick a couple pipes (tubing) in the holes to span the gap - weld them in and you have your strength for the jacking

So here's a pic of a piece I did on a crossmember -- for a different purpose (to pass a fuel line thru -- but similar to what I'm talking about.....

Punch your hole

http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/ad33/gregweld/Rudys%20Camaro/file-127.jpg

Fit your tubing

http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/ad33/gregweld/Rudys%20Camaro/file-128.jpg

Trim your tubing to dimension:

http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/ad33/gregweld/Rudys%20Camaro/file-129.jpg

WELD IT IN!

Sieg

08-27-2012, 12:26 AM

I like the tubing trick. :thumbsup:

I don't like trying to make this a piece of my car! :willy:
http://sieg.smugmug.com/Cars/69-Camaro/i-X4gWHmS/0/XL/IMAG2758-XL.jpg

When I take it to the scrap yard they'll probably laugh at me. :D

Roberts68

08-27-2012, 05:48 AM

Couldn't you get a similar effect to the tubing idea by putting a couple plates perpendicular to the crossmember? They would be standing vertical. Each plate could have a shallow tab on it which would go in a slot cut in the cross member.

Buzz it in and then grind it smooth. You would be left with a box within a box so I would think it would be quite strong, and not all that hard to do.

Sieg

08-27-2012, 06:21 AM

That's the plan Robert. :thumbsup:

Besides my odds of making a good straight weld are much better compared to a round one. :D

Roberts68

08-27-2012, 09:45 AM

Take good pics. I might decide to copy that idea.

What else do you have in store for this sub? I would be tempted to sandblast inside of it while you have it open for surgery... but then I live in the "Rust Belt" and despise the stuff wholeheartedly.

My car is pretty clean overall but I want to erradicate the nasty red stuff from the sub I am going to use, inside and out. It could be contagious.:_paranoid I wonder if it can jump an aluminum body mount?:lol:

Sieg

08-27-2012, 08:35 PM

Stopped by the repair shop this afternoon:

http://sieg.smugmug.com/Cars/69-Camaro/i-h6KdsNs/0/XL/IMAG2759-XL.jpg

http://sieg.smugmug.com/Cars/69-Camaro/i-dTr4p35/0/L/IMAG2760-L.jpg

http://sieg.smugmug.com/Cars/69-Camaro/i-tr4nsqZ/0/XL/IMAG2764-XL.jpg

It could be worse, like this guy who came in to get an estimate to repair his girlfriends truck after he put two 7mm Mag rounds through it sighting in his dear rifle this weekend.
http://sieg.smugmug.com/Cars/69-Camaro/i-KJvvLGL/0/L/IMAG2772-L.jpg
There were two 7mm holes 1" apart on the inside rail. Those guys sporting the decals got nothing on him. :rofl:

Vince@Meanstreets

08-27-2012, 10:57 PM

nice group if he was 400 yards away. :yes:

Be sure to square that sucker up and brace it before you do the final welding.

Sieg

08-27-2012, 11:20 PM

nice group if he was 400 yards away. :yes:

Be sure to square that sucker up and brace it before you do the final welding.

Check on the weld up. I'll have it checked and tweaked at the shop then tack some bracing in before hitting the seams.

I wondered how he did notice the first round hitting the truck, then I remembered shooting a 7mm mag. Mean recoil and a big bang, he didn't have a chance of noticing it. :D

Sieg

08-29-2012, 10:38 PM

Bug-eyed and nekkid!

http://sieg.smugmug.com/Cars/69-Camaro/i-nZ4G2SJ/1/L/IMAG2783-L.jpg

Vince@Meanstreets

08-29-2012, 10:56 PM

Check on the weld up. I'll have it checked and tweaked at the shop then tack some bracing in before hitting the seams.

I wondered how he did notice the first round hitting the truck, then I remembered shooting a 7mm mag. Mean recoil and a big bang, he didn't have a chance of noticing it. :D

If you havea good scope you watch the bullet trace....probably thought...ok see the trace, uuooh looks like its getting close to the truck....yup.

whats the verdict on the insurance and the fire? Full speed ahead?

Roberts68

08-30-2012, 04:21 AM

My guess was that the guy was using one side of the truck bed for a rest and could see the target in his scope, but did not realize his muzzle was below line of sight and ripped the second one through the bed before realizing it.

Sieg, I don't know how I missed the comment about your 6g verticals in your post.:rolleyes: I reread that and thought "Doh!" (Homer Simpson):lol:

GregWeld

08-30-2012, 07:46 AM

http://sieg.smugmug.com/Cars/69-Camaro/i-nZ4G2SJ/1/L/IMAG2783-L.jpg

Well.... as long as we're here we might as well do......

:rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

Sieg

08-30-2012, 08:41 AM

Well.... as long as we're here we might as well do......

:rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

Wish I had the time and resources to really capitalize on this opportunity.
It will be back better than it was but not as good as it could be.
The timing just isn't right. :(

intocarss

08-30-2012, 05:21 PM

Put that Vette front end on the Camaro :unibrow:

Track Junky

08-30-2012, 06:44 PM

Lookin' good Sieg, at least she's still smilin' :thumbsup:

Sieg

08-30-2012, 08:18 PM

Put that Vette front end on the Camaro :unibrow:
Comaro or Cavette?

Lookin' good Sieg, at least she's still smilin' :thumbsup:
Got that right! That dog will hunt again. :thumbsup:

Sieg

08-31-2012, 03:16 PM

Progress.........firewall painted.

http://sieg.smugmug.com/Cars/69-Camaro/i-tVfPmQr/0/L/IMAG2790-L.jpg

Also placed a $3K order for replacement parts today including all the valve-train components for installing the AFR heads. ETA on all but one of the 32 line order is Sept. 5-6.

Now I can get back to focusing on my wage paying job. :yes:

intocarss

08-31-2012, 06:33 PM

Comaro or Cavette?

Got that right! That dog will hunt again. :thumbsup: I like Cormaro But Cavette has class

Sieg

09-04-2012, 08:05 PM

With no car to tinker on I experimented with the spare subframe over the weekend, still not sure if it's a keeper but it's a good skill building exercise.
http://sieg.smugmug.com/Cars/69-Camaro/i-sdH9CMd/0/L/IMAG2797-L.jpg

I've been fighting the new 200 amp TIG machine trying to find the machines sweet spots between guage, heat, wire and gun speed. So the reinforcing plate welds aren't what I'd like them to be but compliment the factory welds nicely. :D My little Lincoln SP135+ is not nearly as finicky as the HTP 200 at least that's my excuse for possible lack of talent. :_paranoid

Made a cardboard template from a cereal box for the cross-member plate shimmed it up an 1/8" and trace cut the 11 ga plate with the plasma it dropped into place with no grinding. Loving the plasma cutter!

GregWeld

09-04-2012, 08:40 PM

Are you pushing or pulling the MIG??

I push for most stuff...

Do you have a good cheat sheet for the settings for the machine?

Sieg

09-04-2012, 09:00 PM

Are you pushing or pulling the MIG??

I push for most stuff...

Do you have a good cheat sheet for the settings for the machine?
Thanks for asking. :thumbsup:

I prefer to push when ever possible and have two different cheat sheets, one on the machine and one in the manual that vary a little. :rolleyes:

The machine has 6 power levels, each of those levels can be adjusted 1-4 on a separate switch. Wire feed is 1-10.

I've been full power (6-4) and wire at 10, gas at 15 to 30 cfm. Push, pull, slow, fast, and tweenered. Using 10 ga. with lap joints as test. Can't get the welds to lay down like I think they should. 5-3 with wire at 4-5 and gas at 17 is delivering the best result.

I've tried with the maching input power at 208 for input current 225V and below and at 240V for current 226V and above. It appears 240V delivers better results.

It's probably excessive LOFT on the operator's behalf. Practice, practice, practice.

GregWeld

09-04-2012, 09:07 PM

Slow your travel speed and oscillate side to side just a bit -- bury that wire in.... and maybe keep your gun a bit tighter to the puddle and a little more vertical.

Cole

09-04-2012, 09:31 PM

I've tried with the maching input power at 208 for input current 225V and below and at 240V for current 226V and above. It appears 240V delivers better results.

It's probably excessive LOFT on the operator's behalf. Practice, practice, practice.

208 is 3 phase power. If your doing this at home your working with 120/240v single phase.

Sieg

09-04-2012, 09:51 PM

208 is 3 phase power. If your doing this at home your working with 120/240v single phase.Thanks, the machine came set at 208. Instructions said to measure line voltage, if 225 or lower use 208, and 226 and higher use 240 bridge setting. I just tested on both settings to see what the results would be. :rolleyes:

Sieg

09-04-2012, 10:05 PM

Slow your travel speed and oscillate side to side just a bit -- bury that wire in.... and maybe keep your gun a bit tighter to the puddle and a little more vertical.

I'm playing the angles and hold-off and getting closer. Compared to the little Lincoln it's like another learning process. :question:

Here's another test session on 10 ga. with lap and butt joints........

Not pretty:
http://sieg.smugmug.com/Other/Welding/i-M7nmFHc/1/L/IMAG2803-L.jpg

Slight improvement, splatter is excessive!:
http://sieg.smugmug.com/Other/Welding/i-MHbmQPb/0/L/IMAG2802-L.jpg

Close-ups:
http://sieg.smugmug.com/Other/Welding/i-Pz2Zqt6/0/L/IMAG2804-L.jpg

http://sieg.smugmug.com/Other/Welding/i-PP6hnJX/0/L/IMAG2805-L.jpg

All those welds were done with gas at 18 cfm, varied the power between 5-1 to 5-4 and wire speed from 2.5 to 6, push and pull.

Keep commenting, I'll keep experimenting. :thumbsup:

Roberts68

09-05-2012, 05:06 AM

If I was laying those down I would be inclined to either increase the amperage, or more likely slow down my travel speed and wire speed.

How does the back side heat transfer look?

Sieg

09-05-2012, 05:37 AM

If I was laying those down I would be inclined to either increase the amperage, or more likely slow down my travel speed and wire speed.

How does the back side heat transfer look?Next session I'll give that a go. :thumbsup:

Getting the right sizzle sound with this machine hasn't been easy. It's overly sensitive which doesn't compliment my obvious lack of talent. :D

GregWeld

09-05-2012, 08:31 AM

Sieg

09-05-2012, 09:19 AM

Not sure what it is but something isn't right --- way too much splatter... and not much HAZ (heat affected zone).

What gas are you using? Should be 75/25 Co2/Argon

18cfm is high for what you're welding... 15cfm should be plenty.

What wire are you using? What size?

I downloaded and read the MIG 200 owners manual.... Sorry.... after reading that I know why I own Miller equipment.

The settings on this machine do not correspond to settings on a Miller or a Lincoln... that whole 5-1 etc is just - Well I'll leave it at that.

I'd use the 1/8" settings... and you're right - in one place they recommend 5 and in another they say 6... I'd use the HIGHER range.

75/25, .030 Lincoln wire, the manual is baaad.

I've tried to test one extreme to the other to find middle ground but that's been elusive territory.

I sent the post to my contact at USAWeld, we'll see how they respond. I'm not that good with MIG but I don't think I'm this bad either.

Sieg

09-06-2012, 12:18 AM

COMPLETE IDIOT! +/- -/+ = Doh!

I'll be drinking coffee from this cup in the morning.
http://images.addoway.com/items/3569/1213846/3569_2_0a56f5.jpg

http://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/baldy.gif

Don't be shy, I deserve to be pummeled for this one. :rolleyes:

Roberts68

09-06-2012, 04:20 AM

Do tell. What tipped the scales?
What was the brand of this welder?
I can honestly say I have never used any welder than a MILLER.

Therefore I may be more lucky than good.

GregWeld

09-06-2012, 07:28 AM

Ah the old electrode positive vs the electrode negative..... yeah that makes a huge difference!

:cheers:

ccracin

09-06-2012, 07:50 AM

You know, as I was reading I thought that and then bingo! Now that you posted the bad, lets see the good! Glad you stuck with it! :thumbsup:

GregWeld

09-06-2012, 07:55 AM

You know, as I was reading I thought that and then bingo! Now that you posted the bad, lets see the good! Glad you stuck with it! :thumbsup:

I was going to ask about that but didn't think he was that stupid....

:rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

XOXO

Scott -- I was even going to ask you if I should stop in Eugene tomorrow on my way to the bay area...

Sieg

09-06-2012, 08:27 AM

Do tell. What tipped the scales?
What was the brand of this welder?
I can honestly say I have never used any welder than a MILLER.

Therefore I may be more lucky than good.

Ah the old electrode positive vs the electrode negative..... yeah that makes a huge difference!

:cheers:

You know, as I was reading I thought that and then bingo! Now that you posted the bad, lets see the good! Glad you stuck with it! :thumbsup:

I was going to ask about that but didn't think he was that stupid....

:rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

XOXO

Scott -- I was even going to ask you if I should stop in Eugene tomorrow on my way to the bay area...

I'm still in shock........:wow:

Stupid hurts not to mention it's really embarassing. :(

I wish I could blame it on my neighbor who would definitely play a trick like that on me, don't think I can, guaranteed I will accuse him though. :D

The stress level the last few weeks has obviously been way too high.

Sieg

09-06-2012, 11:52 AM

You know, as I was reading I thought that and then bingo! Now that you posted the bad, lets see the good! Glad you stuck with it! :thumbsup:

Late last night quick test without touching previous power or feed rates...........
http://sieg.smugmug.com/Other/Welding/i-Nw5BzmJ/0/L/IMAG2816-L.jpg

...........oh the shame. http://www.desmonorthwest.com/forums/images/smilies/confused58.gif

GregWeld

09-06-2012, 12:18 PM

Hey --- It's a new machine --- the boneheads at the factory set it up for aluminum welding.... WTF?!?!?! :unibrow:

Pick up your wire feed rate a notch or two... welds are a bit flat.

:cheers:

Sieg

09-06-2012, 02:18 PM

Hey --- It's a new machine --- the boneheads at the factory set it up for aluminum welding.... WTF?!?!?! :unibrow:

Pick up your wire feed rate a notch or two... welds are a bit flat.

:cheers:......or flux-core.

As noted I didn't touch the previous settings for those welds as it was after midnight and I knew I had to walk the dog 1.5 miles and be at a 7 a.m. meeting.

I could instantly tell all was good just by the crisp sizzle.

Sieg

09-07-2012, 09:10 PM

Just had a quick chance to run a couple more beads with the welder set. :rolleyes:
These were on power 5-3, gas @ 17 cfm, and wire speed between 3 to 4.25, also experimented with gun angles, push vs. pull, and speed, thus the inconsistencies.

http://sieg.smugmug.com/Other/Welding/i-7TXFv3V/0/L/IMAG2824-L.jpg

http://sieg.smugmug.com/Other/Welding/i-9qmDGkx/0/L/IMAG2823-L.jpg

It makes a "little" difference, though the operator still lacks talent.

Here's a couple shots of the HTP 200

http://sieg.smugmug.com/Other/Welding/i-5nQXXCR/0/XL/IMAG2825-XL.jpg

http://sieg.smugmug.com/Other/Welding/i-gRwFx4n/0/L/IMAG2827-L.jpg

The sales, service, and after-sales support from HTP / USAWeld.com has been very good. I wouldn't hesitate to recommend them as a viable player against the big two. :thumbsup:

GregWeld

09-07-2012, 09:44 PM

Do they have some skill in a bucket? :lol: :D

That's "better" -- of course that's a relative measurement!

When you "finish" don't just let off the trigger -- come back into your puddle just for a second. That will give you a better ending.

When you pull --- slow it down and straighten it up a bit (your angle)....

:cheers:

Sieg

09-08-2012, 12:56 AM

Sieg

09-09-2012, 08:22 PM

It's been a hell of a week between a client filing bankruptcy on us for just shy of 6 figures and business partner of 36 years dying of a heart attack at a healthy 60 years old yesterday..........

After business due-diligence for the first part of the day I went to the garage to meditate a while with somewhat reasonable success considering my lack of welding skill.

http://sieg.smugmug.com/Cars/69-Camaro/i-MwmvZw4/1/L/IMAG2832-L.jpg

http://sieg.smugmug.com/Cars/69-Camaro/i-V4PvLwh/1/XL/IMAG2836-XL.jpg

Nothing a $3 grinding wheel and a little paint won't fix. :D

Also wired up the new console guages. Took the upgrade route instead of buying sending lines for the old guages.

http://sieg.smugmug.com/Cars/69-Camaro/i-Q2gf7jN/1/L/IMAG2828-L.jpg

http://sieg.smugmug.com/Cars/69-Camaro/i-r7FNZvh/2/L/IMAG2830-L.jpg

Can't say I'm impressed with the console guage panel from Autometer as is doesn't allow clearance to use their retaining mounts. The Vacuum guage is temporary and will eventually get replaced with a fuel level or oil temp guage.

GregWeld

09-09-2012, 09:24 PM

Holy crap! Sorry to hear of the business issues and (I'm sure) a personal friend loss!

When I had a partner - we had life insurance bought and paid for by the business - that paid to the business in the event of such a loss... 'cause that can be a very disruptive loss!

Welding looks FAR better! Good for you!

Sieg

09-09-2012, 09:32 PM

60 years old, healthy and a recent extremely proud Grampa of two. Very sad in that respect.

Disruptive may be an understatement. Key employee insurance is definitely beneficial in situations of this nature. Sadly not the case in this situation.

Amazing what proper set up and a little confidence in the machine can do huh? :D

Thanks. :thumbsup:

Vince@Meanstreets

09-09-2012, 10:59 PM

sorry to hear about your business issues, sad to hear about the loss too. Reminds us all that life is short and try to do your best when you are here.

Welding is getting better, you'll be an es'pert by the time that frame is done. Greg, do you think the wire speed is ok? Bit on the fast side?

Sieg

09-10-2012, 05:50 AM

Sieg

09-10-2012, 09:02 PM

Two questions

1) Is this flaw in the ceramic coating on the flange and top of the number 1 tube a returnable offense on a new set of Hooker headers in your opinion?

http://sieg.smugmug.com/Cars/69-Camaro/i-t9pKrqg/0/XL/IMAG2840-XL.jpg

2) I had to cut a portion of the windage tray out of the new pan to clear the pickup when originally installed while motor was in the car. Do you see any problem with my tack welds vs stitch welding the entire seam?

http://sieg.smugmug.com/Cars/69-Camaro/i-XN4cZCX/0/L/IMAG2842-L.jpg

Thanks!

PS- My stuff seems quite insignificant after reading the Mike's exceptional explaination of the engineering behind Mayhem's new motor. :( :D

GregWeld

09-10-2012, 09:20 PM

If I was trying to build a show car - the headers would be going back - while I might ponder it a while if it was just a street car -- HOWEVER --- no way I'd pay full price! So I'd give the supplier the choice... return or a big discount to keep 'em.

I'd fully TIG the baffle "just because" -- think of it as practice -- and welding is soothing... :D

Sieg

09-10-2012, 10:10 PM

I'd fully TIG the baffle "just because" -- think of it as practice -- and welding is soothing... :D
Compromise..........no one will argue the fact that I need practice! Especially with the TIG. It can be soothing but in my latest example it can also be pretty embarassing. Since time isn't on my side right now I pulled it and added more "security" tacks with the MIG. :D

http://sieg.smugmug.com/Cars/69-Camaro/i-3XtXn8G/0/L/IMAG2843-L.jpg

Sieg

09-12-2012, 09:22 PM

Finally found out what cam the motor has.........because there was two bad lifters and lobes. Motor still has good cross-hatching in the cylinder bore. I learned something I was totally unaware of - zinc additive for flat tappet cams. Obviously I wasn't in the car scene when zinc was removed from oil and this became an issue.

The cam was installed in 1989 and they still sell the pattern.

Edelbrock 5002

Summit Racing Part Number EDL-5002

UPC 085347050024

Cam Style Hydraulic flat tappet

Basic Operating RPM Range 2,500-6,500

Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift 232

Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift 234

Duration at 050 inch Lift 232 int./234 exh.

Advertised Intake Duration 292

Advertised Exhaust Duration 300

Advertised Duration 292 int./300 exh.

Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.488 in.

Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.488 in.

Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.488 int./0.488 exh.

Lobe Separation (degrees) 108

Hopefully the crank and rod journals pass inspection. :thumbsup:

makoshark

09-13-2012, 03:50 AM

Go roller. I realize its cost is more, but the peace of mind as well as performance gains outweigh the extra cost. Today, though, roller cam setups aren't as expensive as they once were

WSSix

09-13-2012, 04:03 AM

If you don't go roller, remember you'll have to run specific oil since the modern "regular off the shelf" oil doesn't contain enough ZDDP for a flat tappet cam.

ccracin

09-13-2012, 05:14 AM

The welds are definitely coming along! I give you alot of credit for sticking with it with all you are going through. Keep up the good work. :thumbsup:

Sieg

09-13-2012, 08:50 AM

Go roller. I realize its cost is more, but the peace of mind as well as performance gains outweigh the extra cost. Today, though, roller cam setups aren't as expensive as they once were
Next motor! :thumbsup:

Sieg

09-13-2012, 09:03 AM

If you don't go roller, remember you'll have to run specific oil since the modern "regular off the shelf" oil doesn't contain enough ZDDP for a flat tappet cam.I guess being focused on high performance off-road and track bikes running high-dollar Motorex and Motul synthetic lubes the last ten years I completely missed the zinc bulletin.

I was really caught off-guard on this one. :willy:

Here's the cylinder bore that was done in 1989, don't think it has over 9K miles.
http://sieg.smugmug.com/Cars/69-Camaro/i-6rpMDSf/0/L/IMAG2844-L.jpg

Sieg

09-13-2012, 09:04 AM

The welds are definitely coming along! I give you alot of credit for sticking with it with all you are going through. Keep up the good work. :thumbsup:

Thanks Chad I really appreciate it. :thumbsup:

MarkM66

09-13-2012, 09:31 AM

Yeah, go roller.

And ZDDP is just a lot of hype. There's more to oil protection then the amount of zddp it has.

Sieg

09-13-2012, 10:30 AM

Yeah, go roller.

And ZDDP is just a lot of hype. There's more to oil protection then the amount of zddp it has.

Roller in the 383, not this short block.

The car has only had Castrol GTX 10-40 since 1990 and just the last change was Shell Rotella 10-40. FWIW

intocarss

09-13-2012, 05:36 PM

For flat tappet cams I ran the Rotella or Delo, I have heard that they took some of the additives out if that now too...

Joe Gibbs

Red Line &

Brad Penn all make good oils for hod rod engines

Or Red line or Lucas break in additive all work good in flat tappet cam engs

BUT this is a good excuse to go roller :unibrow:

WSSix

09-13-2012, 06:47 PM

I figured you'd run good stuff like Red Line, Motul, etc but just wanted to make sure. It's all because of emissions requirements that ZDDP had to be lessened in the oils. This goes for diesel oil now too.

GregWeld

09-13-2012, 08:28 PM

Scott --- I have a couple sets of roller lifters -- yours for the taking -- which will save you a few bucks if you want to go to a roller motor....

Sieg

09-13-2012, 09:00 PM

Go roller.

Yeah, go roller.

BUT this is a good excuse to go roller :unibrow:
I'll gladly accept donations! :unibrow:

The budget that wasn't there in the first place is getting stretched due to the opportunity pulling the motor created with what I consider priorities - Getting the AFR heads installed.

Then I found out:

The replacement Hooker header oval ports created a curb with the D-ports that IMO would make the headers no better than exhaust manifolds with matched ports. Still wouldn't bet the Doug's 368 headers will fit and for additional insurance ordered a mini starter and ARP bolts.

The lifter valley coating installed on the block buy the builder in '89 had restricted a couple of lifters and torched two lobes on the cam.

That 5 piston skirts were scuffed on one side but with no impact on diameter but required new rings.

That a few rod and crank bearings had also experience some sort of contamination which called for all new bearings. Unsure of the contaminate or source...K&N filter maaaybe? Keep in mind 9K miles in the 23 years I've owned it.

Then the non-insurance items like guide plates, studs, springs retainers, replacement guages, new valve covers, ARP fastners, carb, header, starter upgrades, etc. leaves me at least $2+K over insurance coverage.

I'll save the additional roller cam expenses for the 383 that's built to be abused.......provided the economy turns our market around and we can recoup three years of losses. :thumbsup:

How's that for a short answer? :rofl:

Here's my hi-tech motor this afternoon:
http://sieg.smugmug.com/Cars/69-Camaro/i-PxpqFPc/0/L/IMAG2849-L.jpg

http://sieg.smugmug.com/Cars/69-Camaro/i-9XLgkqZ/0/XL/IMAG2847-XL.jpg

http://sieg.smugmug.com/Cars/69-Camaro/i-J8M4HG3/0/L/IMAG2846-L.jpg

Sieg

09-13-2012, 09:13 PM

Scott --- I have a couple sets of roller lifters -- yours for the taking -- which will save you a few bucks if you want to go to a roller motor....

Greg,

I really appreciate your generosity, but I've already commited to the regrind to expidite the process since time is money to the two shop owners. I also know that I like the grind of that cam and it should only get better with the manifold, carb, iginition, and heads. After all it's just another dime a dozen Camaro. :D

The timing with the bankruptcy issue and obtaining emergency operating capital, then death of my partner and all the corporate requirements associated and a funeral tomorrow has made what should have been a fun process somewhat of a pain though I'm still trying to enjoy it because I'm alive even though I've been averaging about 4 hours of fragmented sleep a night the last two weeks. :yes:

Guarantee you one thing I'm ready to take a long drive in the big rig and play pit beotch and get abused by the Cali Boys. :thumbsup:

GregWeld

09-13-2012, 09:38 PM

Guarantee you one thing I'm ready to take a long drive in the big rig and play pit beotch and get abused by the Cali Boys. :thumbsup:

Now we're talking!!! You're on!!

I was pit Beotch to this the other night in Salt Lake City --- Rocky Mountain Raceways -- for a couple of test and tune runs... it brought back good memories of 40 years ago I can tell ya!

Blow this up to full screen and increase it to 720 --- I just took it with my iPhone....

732 Cubic inch - two stages of nitrous --- THAT will put a smile on your face!

UgGY3_8IjL8&feature=plcp

Sieg

09-13-2012, 09:45 PM

NICE!!

Those new camera's that are mediocre phones are pretty impressive. :yes:

PS - Anyone every mentioned you have a real tall shadow? :D

67zo6Camaro

09-13-2012, 09:50 PM

I'll gladly accept donations! :unibrow:

http://sieg.smugmug.com/Cars/69-Camaro/i-PxpqFPc/0/L/IMAG2849-L.jpg

Oh man, I know you're building something special. But, when I saw this container of parts, My mind went crazy about what I could weld together. Especially that gear drive that's pop'n out at me. I know!, Im a little demented.

:captain: Im just say'n

Sieg

09-13-2012, 10:00 PM

Oh man, I know you're building something special. But, when I saw this container of parts, My mind went crazy about what I could weld together. Especially that gear drive that's pop'n out at me. I know!, Im a little demented.

:captain: Im just say'n
LOL! It ain't that special, it's just a mediocre Gen 1 355 that will hopefully be just a bit above average when all is said and done.

The way it's been going I'd probably find great satisfaction in welding all those together. Even that old school Pete Jackson gear drive. :thumbsup:

Sieg

09-16-2012, 07:31 AM

The AED Performance fuel supply arrived so I fabbed a carb stand and put the Ultra HP on the bench to verify calibration. I hope this carb is as good as I've heard. Personal opinion - I love the design upgrades and look!

http://sieg.smugmug.com/Cars/69-Camaro/i-PGhPHDs/0/L/IMAG2862-L.jpg

http://sieg.smugmug.com/Cars/69-Camaro/i-kGh7z9v/0/L/IMAG2863-L.jpg

http://sieg.smugmug.com/Cars/69-Camaro/i-d6cW8nK/0/XL/IMAG2857-XL.jpg

http://sieg.smugmug.com/Cars/69-Camaro/i-8Tznnqh/0/XL/IMAG2859-XL.jpg

Mains - 70
Power valve - 6.5
Idle bleeds - 70
Main bleeds - 45
Pump shooters - 31
Pump cams - Pink 1st position
Fuel screws were random now set at 1.5 out.
Idle air bypass - 3 turns out

intocarss

09-16-2012, 07:39 AM

That is sexy

Roberts68

09-16-2012, 03:50 PM

That is sexy

X2. I concur. Carb envy has reached the Midwest.:thumbsup:

coolwelder62

09-16-2012, 06:50 PM

That is sexyWhat he said.That black carb is awesome.:thumbsup: :thumbsup:

Flash68

09-16-2012, 07:02 PM

That looks killer dude! Love that color... I did read it chips easily somewhere. Hopefully it holds up. :thumbsup:

GregWeld

09-16-2012, 08:35 PM

AWESOME! Love that look!

Sure hope it works for you as it should and maybe even better!:cheers:

Sieg

09-16-2012, 09:24 PM

Thanks guys :thumbsup:

Dave - I don't think it's the most durable finish I've seen, not as sensitive as anodized aluminum though.

Greg - Hopefully the head and carb make up for my inferior rebuilt flat tappet cam. :woot:

One issue that came up when they tore the motor down is they didn't notice the gear drive was a variable advance so they don't know position it was set at. That bothers me.......more than a little.

I believe -2* / 0* / +2* are the options for my drive.
http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/pjj-350-91c.pdf

Anyone have an educated guess?

Here's Edlebrock's specs which say 0* for "most" applications.
----------------
• CAMSHAFT: Torker-Plus Hydraulic
• CATALOG #5002
• ENGINE: Chevrolet 265-400 c.i.d. V8
• RPM RANGE: 1500-6500
• CAUTION: Do not use dual valve springs.
Use only recommended Edelbrock Sure Seat
Valve Springs #5703.
Use stock ratio rocker arms only.
Duration at .006" Lift: Intake 292° Exhaust 300°
Duration at .050" Lift: Intake 232° Exhaust 234°
Lift at cam: Intake .325" Exhaust .325"
Lift at valve: Intake .488" Exhaust .488"
Timing at .050 Lift:
Open Close
Intake 10° BTDC 42° ABDC
Exhaust 47° BBDC 7° ATDC
Intake Centerline: 106° Lobe Separation: 108°
• CAUTION: Use Edelbrock Performer-Link Timing Chain and Gear
Set #7800 or Accu-Drive gear drive #7890. Do not use late
model timing chain and gear sets that are designed for emission-
controlled engines. These timing sets are machined in a
retarded position and are not recommended for this camshaft
installation. Edelbrock Timing Sets feature three keyways for
specified timing selection. Use "0" position for most applications.
--------------
Edelbrock's drive is 4* at cam and 2* at crank.

Sieg

09-19-2012, 10:04 PM

Edelbrock tech said the Comp Cam dual springs I had with 121 lb seat and 343 lb. open pressure were within there acceptable range with the cam.

Lucas 30W break in oil and Joe Gibb's mil-spec 10/30W oil on order.

Doug's 368 headers arrived, fingers crossed that they fit! The overall quality (especially ceramic coating) is much higher that the Hooker Comp's I received earlier.

http://sieg.smugmug.com/Cars/69-Camaro/i-Gw7Md4s/0/XL/IMAG2879-XL.jpg

http://sieg.smugmug.com/Cars/69-Camaro/i-dCCsBch/0/L/IMAG2880-L.jpg

Quick Fuel throttle return spring bracket test fit and appears to be a well engineered "no frills" system.

http://sieg.smugmug.com/Cars/69-Camaro/i-zrcmFc2/0/L/IMAG2876-L.jpg

Motor should be back together this week or first of next week. With a little luck Norwood will be back on the road in a couple weeks. :thumbsup:

Sieg

09-23-2012, 09:52 PM

More progress on the "practice" frame

http://sieg.smugmug.com/Cars/69-Camaro/i-vwtM44W/0/L/IMAG2905-L.jpg

Thankfully it goes under the car. :lol:

GregWeld

09-23-2012, 09:58 PM

Go back and fill in the low spots with some rose welding.... grind 'em down...

It'll look beautiful! And it's good practice.

GregWeld

09-23-2012, 10:06 PM

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

Kkw6QNzrkP0

Sieg

09-23-2012, 10:27 PM

Compared to the welds and finish on the rest of the frame the crap I did looks too good. Besides it's just another Camaro driver. :lol:

I compared the factory welds and fit on this frame to the one in my car and it's amazing how sloppy this one is compared to the other. I'd like to see a video of the actual production facilities to have a better understanding......just because. :)

Once it gets blasted and painted it will look real purdy. :D

Sieg

10-03-2012, 03:10 PM

Out with the old
http://sieg.smugmug.com/Cars/69-Camaro/i-PTpN2TG/0/L/IMAG2935-L.jpg

In with the new
http://sieg.smugmug.com/Cars/69-Camaro/i-59S3Dth/0/L/IMAG2931-L.jpg

The car is going to get delivered to my garage tomorrow night with the sheet metal off so I can mount the carb, fit plug wires, guages, etc. then vital fluids and 20 minute break-in at 2K rpm and discolor my new Doug's headers. :(

If everything goes well it will go back to the shop for sheet metal installation and insurance inspection/approval. :thumbsup:

Ralphlovs72chev

10-03-2012, 03:51 PM

:thumbsup: sweet i know that feeling. Cant wait to be driving your baby...

GregWeld

10-03-2012, 04:34 PM

Awesome!

Nice heads!

:D

intocarss

10-03-2012, 05:32 PM

Thats great news!!

Sieg

10-03-2012, 11:13 PM

Awesome!

Nice heads!

:D

Thanks, they're appreciated. :thumbsup:

PS - The entire machine shop bill for tearing it down and installing new valve springs, new rod and crank bearings, rings, lifters, ball hone, cam regrind, Felpro gaskets, etc. and reassembly was $906. Can't decide if I'm scared or estactic. :_paranoid

Flash68

10-04-2012, 12:35 AM

Thanks, they're appreciated. :thumbsup:

PS - The entire machine shop bill for tearing it down and installing new valve springs, new rod and crank bearings, rings, lifters, ball hone, cam regrind, Felpro gaskets, etc. and reassembly was $906. Can't decide if I'm scared or estactic. :_paranoid

Dude that IS scary cheap. But I am guessing you didn't just take it to some Joe you didn't vet.

Sieg

10-04-2012, 05:51 AM

Dude that IS scary cheap. But I am guessing you didn't just take it to some Joe you didn't vet.
Old School machine shop straight across the street from the bodyshop. Caldwell Automotive and Machine established in their current location on Main St. since 1981.

Sieg

10-04-2012, 08:40 AM

I should also add that Jeff's price included Joe Gibbs break-in oil. :thumbsup:

Roberts68

10-04-2012, 08:43 AM

I should also add that Jeff's price included Joe Gibbs break-in oil. :thumbsup:

Wow! That's even more awesome, it pays to have connections or know where to go!

Why not use your old headers for break-in?

Or any "old" headers?

Sieg

10-04-2012, 09:01 AM

Wow! That's even more awesome, it pays to have connections or know where to go!

Why not use your old headers for break-in?

Or any "old" headers?
Because they just don't slide in and out that easy and time is a premium right now. :(

If the motor grenades right off the get-go I'll reconsider using the old headers. :D

Sieg

10-04-2012, 09:34 PM

Good news today was the Doug's headers fit with more clearance on the drivers side than passenger. :thumbsup:

Mediocre news was electrical wiring gremlins didn't allow the car to be delivered home tonight, maybe tomorrow, if not sometime next week.

Sieg

10-06-2012, 08:29 AM

Header fit pics for those that can't get a straight answer from the tech departments at Hooker, Dynatech, Sanderson, Thorley, Hedman, Summit, or Jegs. Doug's wasn't even sure they would clear the Saginaw 700 box. As it turns out the idler arm was the tightest clearance. Don't have a good pic of that clearance yet.

http://sieg.smugmug.com/Cars/69-Camaro/i-xXkZ65R/1/L/IMAG2944-L.jpg

http://sieg.smugmug.com/Cars/69-Camaro/i-6fW7h4h/1/L/IMAG2946-L.jpg

http://sieg.smugmug.com/Cars/69-Camaro/i-X8BNfzS/1/L/IMAG2948-L.jpg

http://sieg.smugmug.com/Cars/69-Camaro/i-XPKBgf8/1/L/IMAG2950-L.jpg

The floorboard fit and ground clearance is good.

Vince@Meanstreets

10-06-2012, 10:03 AM

oh, I thought you were running the 600/670 box. Ok, looks like it fits just fine.

Sieg

10-10-2012, 11:02 PM

Norwood is back home for "detail" work and engine break-in before going back to the shop for sheet metal install.

http://sieg.smugmug.com/Cars/69-Camaro/i-M3dWkMW/1/XL/IMAG2977-XL.jpg

We'll see how productive I can be this weekend.

GregWeld

10-11-2012, 06:29 AM

Watch those rubber "feet" coil mounts... I've had them tear in half. They're pretty soft and pretty small. I think the intention was to mount the weight of the coil in compression.

:_paranoid

ccracin

10-11-2012, 06:57 AM

intocarss

10-11-2012, 07:44 AM

It's coming along great Siegly :thumbsup:

Sieg

10-11-2012, 08:16 AM

Watch those rubber "feet" coil mounts... I've had them tear in half. They're pretty soft and pretty small. I think the intention was to mount the weight of the coil in compression.

:_paranoid

X2 ^^^^^^^

I didn't mount that but it caught my attention. Appears a bit frail. Guess I should make a tether for it huh? LOL.

I'm accepting to more secure and proven mounting suggestions at this time. :D :thumbsup:

Sieg

10-11-2012, 08:16 AM

It's coming along great Siegly :thumbsup:

Thanks JerDogly :thumbsup:

Sieg

10-14-2012, 01:18 AM

Made a little headway today, slow but very enjoyable time away from the business.
http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-QWs6GSZ/1/L/i-QWs6GSZ-L.jpg

Oil line that won't burn through in 5 seconds.........
http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-9kMndHN/1/XL/i-9kMndHN-XL.jpg

Throttle linkage, changed ends and redesigned pivot connection.
http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-RkVKVRM/1/L/i-RkVKVRM-L.jpg

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-pnqFWsx/1/L/i-pnqFWsx-L.jpg

GregWeld

10-14-2012, 07:27 AM

Very pretty...... NOW FIRE IT UP!!:woot:

Sieg

10-14-2012, 07:46 AM

Very pretty...... NOW FIRE IT UP!!:woot:
You should be busy filming 1650 ft. lb. burnouts for us......

intocarss

10-14-2012, 07:54 AM

It's looking very clean !! Nice job Sieglyo

waynieZ

10-14-2012, 10:34 AM

Sieg looks great! Nice work..

Vince@Meanstreets

10-14-2012, 11:30 AM

Very pretty...... NOW FIRE IT UP!!:woot:

I think he prefers to spin her up.....no more fires please. :thumbsup:

thats a badd ass carb

Sieg

10-17-2012, 12:11 AM

Reverse light switch was the last piece of the fire damage it came in today and was replaced tonight. I'm learning that Tremec T56 parts aren't the easiest to find.

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-bhdqPL2/0/L/i-bhdqPL2-L.jpg

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-knqnmWf/0/L/i-knqnmWf-L.jpg

Change the clutch return spring since the headers shortened the mounting point distance, this one is just getting the pedal to return to the stop, but I'd like to find one that's 5-10% higher rate.

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-ShJjV4c/0/L/i-ShJjV4c-L.jpg

The factory throttle arm to rod pivot was not the best so I McGyvered it......between the washers is a 1/2" od 3/8" id bronze bushing with inner 3/8-1/4 steel sleeve. Don't let me forget jamb nuts on that throttle rod!

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-MXcs2xh/0/L/i-MXcs2xh-L.jpg

Waiting on Moroso horizontal wire looms and vacuum fittings for the intake so I staged the wires for final fit tonight.

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-XGXDq7P/0/L/i-XGXDq7P-L.jpg

The #5 spark plug to header tube clearance is not good, the plug boot will be resting against the tube, not liking that but unsure of my options at this time. The Autolite plugs are 1/4" shorter than the old NGK's, can't find a spec on the length of "shorty" plugs. How good are those MSD boots?

Hopefully Sunday will be the break in day. I'm plodding along enjoying the journey at this point.

My old Speed Demon was hand delivered tonight with no finger prints as requested......I'll be preserving it with satin clear and mounting it on a stand for the bookshelf as a reminder of the chasing a lost cause scenerio. :D

intocarss

10-17-2012, 12:41 AM

We've used this type with good success

http://www.heatshieldproducts.com/productdetail/spark-plug-boot-protectors/insul_boot/70/20

And if you only need one I can find one for you

Ron in SoCal

10-17-2012, 07:43 AM

^ I bet I have one or two of those laying around as well.

Sieg

10-17-2012, 08:57 AM

We've used this type with good success

http://www.heatshieldproducts.com/productdetail/spark-plug-boot-protectors/insul_boot/70/20

And if you only need one I can find one for you

^ I bet I have one or two of those laying around as well.

Thanks Gents....I'll snap a pic of the fit tonight, might be too tight for a boot. :(

Flash68

10-17-2012, 09:01 AM

Shiny new parts FTW.

Sieg

10-17-2012, 09:05 AM

Shiny new parts FTW.
I can definitely relate to a fish's attraction to lures. :D

intocarss

10-17-2012, 10:55 AM

Thanks Gents....I'll snap a pic of the fit tonight, might be too tight for a boot. :(

I enlarged your pic of #5 plug. That is tight but I've seen them boots smashed rt up against the header tube and it held up. I hate doing it, but you may have to clearence that tube a little too. OR maybe you can bend the spark plug LOLOL I know you'll make it rt ;)

intocarss

10-17-2012, 05:54 PM

Hey Siegy I got an Idea for Norwood

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y3/real3/12.jpg

Whada ya think?? :unibrow: :cool: :unibrow:

makoshark

10-17-2012, 06:18 PM

Can't wait to see you get this fired up and back on the road. You've been making great progress. All I can find the time to do is order more parts right now.

Sieg

10-17-2012, 11:30 PM

Hey Siegy I got an Idea for Norwood

Whada ya think?? :unibrow: :cool: :unibrow:
:faint: Not enough motor! :woot:

Sieg

10-17-2012, 11:40 PM

Can't wait to see you get this fired up and back on the road. You've been making great progress. All I can find the time to do is order more parts right now.Thanks :thumbsup:

I'm getting antsey (sp) but staying the course and taking my time tinkering which isn't easy for my A to B mindset.

The rains will be here by the time it's running and I'm working 60+ hour 6 day work weeks so..........what's the rush. I'll be up walking the dog in 5 hours and business group meeting in 7 hours. :D

That said..................I can't wait to break it in and see what the motor feels like! :willy:

intocarss

10-18-2012, 05:29 PM

:faint: Not enough motor! :woot: I like the way you think :cheers:

Sieg

10-20-2012, 10:59 AM

Very pretty...... NOW FIRE IT UP!!:woot:
Getting closer :unibrow:

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-3qj7GSJ/0/XL/i-3qj7GSJ-XL.jpg

If I didn't have to work today........

Hopefully by tomorrow afternoon the neighbors may get a fossil fuel induced Sunday sermon :_paranoid

intocarss

10-20-2012, 07:06 PM

You don't know the firing order by heart?? Looking good Siegman

Sieg

10-20-2012, 08:29 PM

You don't know the firing order by heart?? Looking good Siegman
I've spent little time inside V8's in the last twenty years so writing those numbers down was a lot quicker than redoing a plug wire. The way it's been going Murphy would have bit and I would have cut my last long wire short. :yes:

Most of my motor tinkering time has been on single and v-twin KTM's and Ducati's.

Sieg

10-20-2012, 08:31 PM

Little prank on a local boat racer/engine builder.........

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-F4MgXxs/0/L/i-F4MgXxs-L.jpg

Screw EFI..........I've got a Vortec Generator now. :woot:

intocarss

10-20-2012, 08:35 PM

Most of my motor tinkering time has been on single and v-twin KTM's and Ducati's.

DO YOU KNOW THEIR FIRING ORDER, IS IT 1-2 OR 2-1 ???:P :P

Dang velocity stacks are old school! I like it.

Sieg

10-20-2012, 08:41 PM

Well I inched closer until I found the carb secondary pump wouldn't clear the PCV fitting without a spacer. Went to the local parts store right before they closed to pick up a 1/2" spacer.........they didn't have one so I cleaned up and installed the 1" spacer off the old set-up and found it created a throttle linkage bind that is hold the primaries slightly open. Hopefully I can find a 1/2" spacer some where tomorrow.

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-XQVFsX6/0/L/i-XQVFsX6-L.jpg

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-tBcXzvz/0/L/i-tBcXzvz-L.jpg

:woot:

FETorino

10-20-2012, 08:46 PM

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-tBcXzvz/0/L/i-tBcXzvz-L.jpg

:woot:

Sieg

Is it just me or does the fuel line that close to the header provoke flashbacks of previous incidents? :_paranoid

Sieg

10-20-2012, 08:56 PM

Sieg

Is it just me or does the fuel line that close to the header provoke flashbacks of previous incidents? :_paranoid
Rob - It's camera angle and once the inner fender is in place where the filter mounts it has all kinds of room.

Thanks for looking out for me! :lateral: :thumbsup:

FETorino

10-20-2012, 09:00 PM

Rob - It's camera angle and once the inner fender is in place where the filter mounts it has all kinds of room.

Thanks for looking out for me! :lateral: :thumbsup:

That thing is looking too clean to BBQ again. I know you are excited about getting her fired up, and burning your candle at both ends to get it done. I'd just hate to see you make a mistake on the home stretch.

Good luck on that spacer, if you were across town I'd bring one over. I'll be looking for some video of it running tomorrow night.

:cheers:

Sieg

10-20-2012, 09:08 PM

That thing is looking too clean to BBQ again. I know you are excited about getting her fired up, and burning your candle at both ends to get it done. I'd just hate to see you make a mistake on the home stretch.

Good luck on that spacer, if you were across town I'd bring one over. I'll be looking for some video of it running tomorrow night.

:cheers:
Damn! You're real nice for a Ford guy! :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

Thanks Buddy it's very much appreciated. :thumbsup:

My excitement is somewhat minuscule considering your project. :yes:
Any time you cross the goal line feels good.......even if your losing. :D

GregWeld

10-20-2012, 09:14 PM

Personally I'd use a full flow SWIVEL end where that tight 90 is....

Like this....

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AER-FBM4032/

it swivels to allow the hose to be placed where it wants to go... but more importantly it's not causing the fuel to make that tight 90... fuel no likey to do dat!

:unibrow: :D

Sieg

10-20-2012, 09:27 PM

Vince@Meanstreets

10-20-2012, 10:19 PM

Greg - Couldn't find one the went from the 8-AN fuel line to 6-AN carb line. Not happy with the current system, thought about running old fashion steel or synthetic up from the pump. It will change at some point.........

Yeah, I would go steel and keep the lines low, down to a bracket at the front of the block then flex line to electric pump.....like what I did on this 69.... Looking good. :thumbsup:

Sieg

10-20-2012, 10:22 PM

Thanks for the input Vince. :thumbsup:

intocarss

10-20-2012, 10:25 PM

Yeah, I would go steel and keep the lines low, down to a bracket at the front of the block then flex line to electric pump.....like what I did on this 69.... Looking good. :thumbsup: I never liked keeping fuel lines that close to the eng. Creates a lot of heat in the fuel...vapor lock. Don't you think?

Vince@Meanstreets

10-20-2012, 10:38 PM

I never liked keeping fuel lines that close to the eng. Creates a lot of heat in the fuel...vapor lock. Don't you think?

Thats what I hear but I never had an issue. I like to have at least a 1/2" of air gap space around it. Nothing ever touching.

FETorino

10-20-2012, 10:46 PM

I never liked keeping fuel lines that close to the eng. Creates a lot of heat in the fuel...vapor lock. Don't you think?

I think air gap manifolds and a phelonic spacer are the best defense against that.

I remember my Pontiac 400 and the separate lifter valley cover and "air gap" intake to keep the intake charge and quadrajet cool.:cool:

Sieg

10-20-2012, 10:57 PM

Vince@Meanstreets

10-20-2012, 11:04 PM

Thinking out loud.........The steel tubing could be wrapped in thermal barrier. That basic design has functioned well on commercial trucks for years w/o thermal protection. The line would be pretty easy to fab and it's cheap, simple and reliable. Synthetic tubing, nipple fittings and Oeticker clamps would be clean and simple too.

very true The reflective stuff works great on wire harnesses. But I remember most of the vapor lock issues back in the 80's were caused by a faulty fuel pump. Reduced fuel pressure plus slow fuel flow equals no cooling leads to vapor lock. Plus I'd take a 195 degree engine block over 800 degree headers any day.

back on track, Did you find a spacer? All I have are 1" ers.

Sieg

10-20-2012, 11:39 PM

very true The reflective stuff works great on wire harnesses. But I remember most of the vapor lock issues back in the 80's were caused by a faulty fuel pump. Reduced fuel pressure plus slow fuel flow equals no cooling leads to vapor lock. Plus I'd take a 195 degree engine block over 800 degree headers any day.

back on track, Did you find a spacer? All I have are 1" ers.
Good points.

I've got three parts shops to check with tomorrow morning. :thumbsup:

intocarss

10-20-2012, 11:48 PM

You may want to upgrade to PTFE / Teflon hose one day. It last a lot longer and is safer then braided/rubber I just re did all my fuel lines to it

http://www.anfittingsdirect.com/stpg.php?page_id=ptfe_teflon&osCsid=208f5f657d14c502ac854f4f508671d3

intocarss

10-20-2012, 11:51 PM

Thats what I hear but I never had an issue. I like to have at least a 1/2" of air gap space around it. Nothing ever touching.

I trust you and it looked a lot closer in the pics ;)

Sieg

10-21-2012, 09:36 AM

Here's a little better perspective of the fuel line routing

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-g7dbMLq/0/L/i-g7dbMLq-L.jpg

Since the parts house website said they opened at 8 this morning and the sign on the door said 9 I headed back and built this starter heat shield.

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-PG2tMX3/0/L/i-PG2tMX3-L.jpg

Back to the parts house we go! Rev's not complaining as it's another RIDE! :D

intocarss

10-21-2012, 10:39 AM

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y3/real3/spaceshuttlecountdownclock_20081111104045.jpg]

:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

Sieg

10-21-2012, 06:20 PM

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-3gPt7XG/0/L/i-3gPt7XG-L.jpg

Couldn't get her to light..............http://www.desmonorthwest.com/forums/images/smilies/notworking.gif

Best I could get was it to light and blubber while pumping the throttle. Not sure if it's cam timing/ignition/fueling at this point.

It had 7 psi fuel pressure and 40 psi oil pressure. Checked, double and triple checked plug wire routing. I referenced the distributor position as recieved from the shop. Tried lighting it +/- 3/8" advanced and retarded.

Flying the white flag for the rest of the evening :question:

I'll trouble shoot with the shop tomorrow.............better safe than sorry.

Vince@Meanstreets

10-21-2012, 06:41 PM

Just to satisfy 45% of us, pop that distributor cap off, pull number 1 plug out and give it a finger poof test. Only takes a min.

Might take a bit for the fuel to atomize down there.

Get some sleep.

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-3gPt7XG/0/L/i-3gPt7XG-L.jpg

Couldn't get her to light..............http://www.desmonorthwest.com/forums/images/smilies/notworking.gif

Best I could get was it to light and blubber while pumping the throttle. Not sure if it's cam timing/ignition/fueling at this point.

It had 7 psi fuel pressure and 40 psi oil pressure. Checked, double and triple checked plug wire routing. I referenced the distributor position as recieved from the shop. Tried lighting it +/- 3/8" advanced and retarded.

Flying the white flag for the rest of the evening :question:

I'll trouble shoot with the shop tomorrow.............better safe than sorry.

Sieg

10-21-2012, 06:51 PM

Vince@Meanstreets

10-21-2012, 07:00 PM

Checking for compression, fuel, firing order? Haven't done a finger poof test on a car anyway. :D

Haa really? It's always funny seeing someone do the poof test for the first time.
Disable the coil and check for poof while watching the rotor spin. Verify TDC. What about submarine races? Ever been?

Sieg

10-21-2012, 07:35 PM

Haa really? It's always funny seeing someone do the poof test for the first time.
Disable the coil and check for poof while watching the rotor spin. Verify TDC. What about submarine races? Ever been?Really! I did check the rotor position against the timing mark it was close.

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-5w5kQnp/0/M/i-5w5kQnp-M.jpg

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-2trLLSd/0/L/i-2trLLSd-L.jpg

Did the finger test, it's building compression with the rotor heading to #1. Have to admit I did pull out prematurely when it tried to suck my thumb in. :D