This is MY 67 Camaro

[Chassisworks]

Last night Chris Sr. and Michael, aka Sonar Chief, had a chance to talk on the phone about the issues that Michael is experiencing with his mini-tub install. We are very thankful for his help and prompt replies to our questions. The situation boils down to three main points.

1-Frame Rail Closeouts: Michael’s Camaro is a ’67 with non-staggered shocks. The rails are different from the staggered shock cars. This will most likely require one new frame rail cutout to be made which can be used on both side. Michael is going to send us a template and we will send him the new pieces in laser-cut steel. They will also be added to future kits. NOTE TO EXISTING CUSTOMERS: If you have a ’67 with non-stagger shocks, call me at Ext 247 and I will ship you a pair of the new pieces for free as soon as they are available.

2-Are The CAC Tubs actually 2-3/4” Wider Than Stock? Yes, they are. We measured our inventory on hand and Michael measured the ones he has in his possession. They were compared to dimensions taken from stock inners for ‘67-‘69 and everything matched up as it should.

3-Do They Fit His Car? Because Michael’s car does not have the outer wheelhouse this is a difficult question to answer. It’s impossible to say for sure whether the outside edge of the tub is being correctly located. His car has been almost completely re-bodied but there is a possibility the factory wheelhouse support is bent. As the outer wheelhouses are on backorder from his supplier, we can’t determine this for sure yet. However, we asked Michael to measure the amount of floor remaining between the tubs and that measurement is correct. Therefore all indicators point to yes, they will fit.

Again, I want to thank Michael for being available and understanding so we can help him get this sorted out quickly and to everyone’s satisfaction. I encourage everyone to make us your first call when you have a question about any of our products. We have free tech help available from 8-5 M-F and 8-1 on Saturdays. That’s ‘Sunny California’ time, of course. If you can’t get through, leave us a message and we will get back to you ASAP.

~Carl

[Sonar Chief]

Last night Chris Sr. and Michael, aka Sonar Chief, had a chance to talk on the phone about the issues that Michael is experiencing with his mini-tub install. We are very thankful for his help and prompt replies to our questions. The situation boils down to three main points.

1-Frame Rail Closeouts: Michael’s Camaro is a ’67 with non-staggered shocks. The rails are different from the staggered shock cars. This will most likely require one new frame rail cutout to be made which can be used on both side. Michael is going to send us a template and we will send him the new pieces in laser-cut steel. They will also be added to future kits. NOTE TO EXISTING CUSTOMERS: If you have a ’67 with non-stagger shocks, call me at Ext 247 and I will ship you a pair of the new pieces for free as soon as they are available.

2-Are The CAC Tubs actually 2-3/4” Wider Than Stock? Yes, they are. We measured our inventory on hand and Michael measured the ones he has in his possession. They were compared to dimensions taken from stock inners for ‘67-‘69 and everything matched up as it should.

3-Do They Fit His Car? Because Michael’s car does not have the outer wheelhouse this is a difficult question to answer. It’s impossible to say for sure whether the outside edge of the tub is being correctly located. His car has been almost completely re-bodied but there is a possibility the factory wheelhouse support is bent. As the outer wheelhouses are on backorder from his supplier, we can’t determine this for sure yet. However, we asked Michael to measure the amount of floor remaining between the tubs and that measurement is correct. Therefore all indicators point to yes, they will fit.

Again, I want to thank Michael for being available and understanding so we can help him get this sorted out quickly and to everyone’s satisfaction. I encourage everyone to make us your first call when you have a question about any of our products. We have free tech help available from 8-5 M-F and 8-1 on Saturdays. That’s ‘Sunny California’ time, of course. If you can’t get through, leave us a message and we will get back to you ASAP.

~Carl

Carl ... very well stated, thank you!

[Chassisworks]

Carl ... very well stated, thank you!

:thankyou: That's why Chris has his name on the building but I'm the guy on the forums.

[waynieZ]

Carl glad to see you guys stepping up to help. :thumbsup:

[Sonar Chief]

Not much going on here except that my door panels from AMD are here and they resemble 67 Camaro door panels that fit correctly. The AMD rep measured the skin before he brought them over (he knew better to bring me another set of skins that didn't fit) and the frames slipped right in .... KOOL!

http://img834.imageshack.us/img834/75/hi7u.jpg
Door skins that fit, yeah! Yes that is the last of the SNOW..... hopefully:thumbsup:

Focusing my attention on my STATS 512 class .... finals next week, can't wait to really work on my car after this class.

Thanks for looking ....

[Sonar Chief]

Wow where does time go? So I thought I'd update those interested on my findings with the mini tubs.
As promised to Chris Alson Sr. I would wait til I received the AMD outer wheel houses to make a final go no/go on the mini tubs. The AMD outer wheel houses came in and they actually fit quite well, (finally something I don't have to beat on to get them to fit) they followed the body flange up and over the tubs and fit nice to the quarter panels .... no fuss involved. With the mini tubs installed on my car the drivers side did not follow the same contour/flange that the outer wheel houses did, the passenger side was closer but not close enough. So I made the decision to send them back and work with Chris on getting the closeouts made for their 67 Camaro mini tub kits.

http://imageshack.us/a/img35/8614/bynk.jpg
Template for the closeouts!

These pictures show the contour/flange with the AMD outer wheel houses in, nice fitting pieces.
http://imageshack.us/a/img825/9426/mi4p.jpg
Pass side view from trunk.
http://imageshack.us/a/img29/1294/7o30.jpg
Drivers side view from trunk.

Oh, and I got 2 gallons of Lizard skin delivered .... door skins, roof, quarters, floor, firewall and cowl. Man I better get going, more to come.

Thanks for looking.

[makoshark]

I was just wondering the other day what you were up to.

I can't say anything about the CA tubs, because I used DSE tubs, but mine fit with no fuss. However, I was fitting them to NOS outers, so I don't know if that is where your issues are coming from.

[Sonar Chief]

I was just wondering the other day what you were up to.

I can't say anything about the CA tubs, because I used DSE tubs, but mine fit with no fuss. However, I was fitting them to NOS outers, so I don't know if that is where your issues are coming from.

Been busy Jeremy .... the AMD outer wheel houses fit great and I'm keeping them fer sure. I have been working on the roof panel also cuz the front corners don't exactly follow the window trim contours. :superhack: required on the roof and then I can Lizard skin the underside.

Thanks...

[tubbed69]

Glad to see you got your problems resolved and making progress.

[Sonar Chief]

Glad to see you got your problems resolved and making progress.

Yes, resolved.... returned! Spoke with the DSE rep this past week and he assured me they will fit a 67 Camaro, I will order DSE mini tubs this week!

I am making progress on the roof, I thought I could get further than I did this weekend making this dang corner but this is complicated :superhack: , or I am really slow.

Anyway, the AMD roof front corners were crap, picture 1, and the roof line didn't follow the molding worth a crap .... so fix it! Easier said than done follow along with the pictures, making the roof line follow the molding and then making the corner piece in 3D.

http://imageshack.us/a/img542/5425/n4kb.jpg
AMD corner .... crap stamping!
http://img443.imageshack.us/img443/290/t0bx.jpg
Working the roof line.
http://imageshack.us/a/img14/8469/xp4q.jpg
Three piece to make this dang corner PITA!!!!!
http://imageshack.us/a/img818/3517/ib9r.jpg
Clamped in place .... getting there!

Hopefully, only a couple more hours, days? Some hammer dolly work and then finish the welding ... then the OTHER SIDE!!!

Thanks for looking...

[waynieZ]

Very Nice ! I was going to suggest the trim to check for fitment. I should have known better to think you didn't already think of it... Its looking great.

[makoshark]

With the DSE tubs, you will still have to make a filler panel to fill the void on the driver's side tub caused by the tub being made for 68-9 Camaros and not 67's. It's simple and I'm sure you will be able to handle it:gitrdun:

[tubbed69]

Yes, resolved.... returned! Spoke with the DSE rep this past week and he assured me they will fit a 67 Camaro, I will order DSE mini tubs this week!

I am making progress on the roof, I thought I could get further than I did this weekend making this dang corner but this is complicated :superhack: , or I am really slow.

Anyway, the AMD roof front corners were crap, picture 1, and the roof line didn't follow the molding worth a crap .... so fix it! Easier said than done follow along with the pictures, making the roof line follow the molding and then making the corner piece in 3D.

http://imageshack.us/a/img542/5425/n4kb.jpg
AMD corner .... crap stamping!
http://img443.imageshack.us/img443/290/t0bx.jpg
Working the roof line.
http://imageshack.us/a/img14/8469/xp4q.jpg
Three piece to make this dang corner PITA!!!!!
http://imageshack.us/a/img818/3517/ib9r.jpg
Clamped in place .... getting there!

Hopefully, only a couple more hours, days? Some hammer dolly work and then finish the welding ... then the OTHER SIDE!!!

Thanks for looking...
It sucks having to do this much fab work but my AMD corners were off but probally not that bad,I am thankful that at least there are parts available or we would not have this enjoyable and expensive hobby

[Sonar Chief]

Very Nice ! I was going to suggest the trim to check for fitment. I should have known better to think you didn't already think of it... Its looking great.

Thanks Wayne, you should know I would already be on top of that ... I just wished I didn't have to open up a can of worms every time I touch something.

With the DSE tubs, you will still have to make a filler panel to fill the void on the driver's side tub caused by the tub being made for 68-9 Camaros and not 67's. It's simple and I'm sure you will be able to handle it:gitrdun:

I am all ready for that ... as long as they fit like they say this should be a piece of cake, round two :hairpullout:

It sucks having to do this much fab work but my AMD corners were off but probally not that bad,I am thankful that at least there are parts available or we would not have this enjoyable and expensive hobby

I wished they weren't this bad either ... sometimes it makes me wonder if they have ever seen a 67 Camaro, really:ohsnap:

[Steve68]

Looks good Chief!! just read the last 10 pages, nice work,

I've been laying low, trying to get my building done then get back to the car, etc,

[Chassisworks]

Michael, the new frame rail cutouts were shipped out. You should have them any day now.

[Sonar Chief]

Looks good Chief!! just read the last 10 pages, nice work,

I've been laying low, trying to get my building done then get back to the car, etc,

Thanks Steve, it's been a journey ... get back onto that car :poke:

Michael, the new frame rail cutouts were shipped out. You should have them any day now.

Got them Wednesday ... now everyone can get closeouts for their non staggered Camaro, thanks for the service and I'm glad I could be part of the solution :thumbsup:

http://img818.imageshack.us/img818/7601/scwk.jpg
Wished I could cut stuff like this ... quality fer sure, Chassisworks.

http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/7895/tsew.jpg
This is where the closeouts go if you're wondering ... drivers side shock tower!

[Sonar Chief]

Wow, where does time go? Been in the field lately and my DSE mini tubs came to the house this past week .... fit them in that night and I they were close to 2.75" wider but not exactly. Called and talked to Matt at DSE and a fellow member here and they say ya gotta push the metal around.... 1/4" at the front floor pan is alot of tension and then welding it to the flanges? The tubs fit the contour of the outer tub good, the stamping is 18 gauge and not as crisp as one would like to see .... there is a gap between outer and inner and I guess people just beat the heck outa the metal to get it close enough to weld?

Not wanting to weld a pie shape piece of metal into the wheel tub (read warp tub) I though I might kill two birds with one big stick .... straighten out the flange (thinking outside the box, don't add metal ... it's already there, the flange!) the outer wheel house is screwed in and that is my edge to remark and MY 2.75" is the inside line ..... re bend with the width/ location that I need to make up :superhack:

So, small cut lines and some hammer and dolly work she's flat .... working on the closeouts first for the reference to clamp everything first. Take a look

http://imageshack.us/a/img692/1384/1yva.jpg
Probably the only one to ever cut up a DSE tub :lostmarbles:
http://imageshack.us/a/img833/9177/e465.jpg
Took longer to jig than weld!
http://imageshack.us/a/img829/3397/nl9z.jpg
Stayed at a 90, finish the front side later!
http://imageshack.us/a/img839/3047/4j5k.jpg
These are the Chassisworks closeouts they made me!

I will stitch weld the front of the closeout and spray some of Eastwood's frame coating inside the hole there and the frame ... hopefully get that closed out tomorrow and maybe even the frame.

Call me crazy if you want .... a 2.75" mini tub should be 2.75" wider at all points and mine will be just that.


Thanks for looking .....

[makoshark]

You are definitely taking the correct steps in making the DSE tubs fit perfect. I wanted to go the extra mile and do just what you are doing, but decided I just didn't want to put that much effort to get that 'perfect' fit in the wheel wells. I was being a bit lazy:rolleyes:

[Sonar Chief]

You are definitely taking the correct steps in making the DSE tubs fit perfect. I wanted to go the extra mile and do just what you are doing, but decided I just didn't want to put that much effort to get that 'perfect' fit in the wheel wells. I was being a bit lazy:rolleyes:

Jeremy .... thanks for talking to me Sat., never would have guessed you'd have an accent being from Mississippi :) , almost got the closeout ready for the mig gun.
Used Eastwood's Internal Frame Coating on the inside area and that seemed to cover all that got in it's way (omni directional nozzle) .... I did have to tape the brass nozzle to a coat hanger wire so I could aim it and keep it from being willy nilly on the tubing. Had a pix but ImageShack would not post it correctly.

http://imageshack.us/a/img9/1818/bk98.jpg
Finished the outside corner, dress and install!

Almost pulled the gun last nite .... it was late and I was trying to hold this closeout on 3 axis and weld so I called it, I'll try again tonight.

[makoshark]

HAHA! Yeah, I'm a born and bred southern boy:yes:

Glad to see the tubs haven't stalled you too much. Looks like you got a good handle on them now:gitrdun:

[Sonar Chief]

HAHA! Yeah, I'm a born and bred southern boy:yes:

Glad to see the tubs haven't stalled you too much. Looks like you got a good handle on them now:gitrdun:

:thankyou: I'm all over them now .... did a little welding the other night and finished the driver's side shock closeout last night. Did not want to get back into that trunk more than I had to, and it was at least 95 in that dang garage.

Anyway... take a look, I should get to the frame close out this weekend, keep your fingers crossed we should get some cooler weather coming into our area. When it's 110 in the garage it's NO FUN :badidea:

http://imageshack.us/a/img600/584/c7mf.jpg
Eastwood's Internal Frame Coating... nice stuff.
http://imageshack.us/a/img827/3355/il4s.jpg
She's parallel @ 2.75"
http://imageshack.us/a/img9/2104/h0h9.jpg
One closeout down ....3 more to go .:thumbsup:

Thanks for looking ....

[coolwelder62]

It's looking good.You are going to have a very well built camaro when she's all finished.

[Sonar Chief]

It's looking good.You are going to have a very well built camaro when she's all finished.

:thankyou: If it's worth doing it's worth doing right!!!

Scott, met Mr. Miller @ GG Loveland. I went on the Friday and watched the autocross for most of the day. Talked with him some but he was keeping that 69 busy, nice frame design .... 315 in the front, nice!

Your are quite the fabricator .... you are doing it right!:cheers:

[tubbed69]

just as always quality work,well done:thumbsup:

[Sonar Chief]

just as always quality work,well done:thumbsup:

:thankyou: I hope others can learn from this thread .... the right way to do things (slowly), I know I learn from other threads also.

Your car is coming along quickly, nice!!!

Been in the garage welding and thinking if it wasn't for my OCD I might have this tub done done already .... anyway, take a look. Most of the welding is done on the drivers side, I was running outa gas and so was my mig tank, still have to make the floor match the tub at either ends ( make use of my stretcher/ shrinker) and weld those in.

http://imageshack.us/a/img534/456/x9bn.jpg
Sprayed Eastwoods Internal Frame down front and back!
http://imageshack.us/a/img580/2922/tsvv.jpg
Yeah, I cut the frame too deep ...oh well, it's only metal!
http://imageshack.us/a/img839/7586/v9ex.jpg
Finished the closeout, mostly!
http://imageshack.us/a/img802/930/1lsi.jpg
She's straight .... :thumbsup:

I have to get out and clean the garage now ... I have a big mess, thankfully it quit misting and the sun came out.

Thanks for looking .....

[Rick D]

Looking good!

[coolwelder62]

:thankyou: If it's worth doing it's worth doing right!!!

Scott, met Mr. Miller @ GG Loveland. I went on the Friday and watched the autocross for most of the day. Talked with him some but he was keeping that 69 busy, nice frame design .... 315 in the front, nice!

Your are quite the fabricator .... you are doing it right!:cheers:Thank's,Kevin's a good kid.Really proud of him.Did he take for a ride.

[Sonar Chief]

Looking good!

Thanks .... almost done with one side!

Thank's,Kevin's a good kid.Really proud of him.Did he take for a ride.

I did not ask for a ride (didn't want to seem like a stalker) I drooled over the car and took a bunch of pictures .... mostly your subframe, and took some video of the runs. Maybe next year if he remembers me :grouphug:

[Sonar Chief]

THIS IS THE COLOR for my car .... check out this Mercedes matte color!

It's exactly what I've pictured in my little pee brain :lostmarbles: little black here and there (hood maybe) and she'll be NICE!

http://cdn.carsroute.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/12/Mercedes-SLS-AMG-Desert-Gold-6.jpg

This ain't your Grandma's car by the way .... gold is ok!

[Roberts68]

That could work Chief! I like the suggestion of some black stripes or accents. I think that would look very nostalgic and still have a bad ass modern muscle feel to it.:gitrdun:

[Chassisworks]

It could kind of be a new twist on the Smokey Yunick theme.

http://www.inflexwetrust.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/chevy-transe-am-camaro.jpg

[Sonar Chief]

Been reworking the flanges on the mini tubs .... I didn't like the idea of clamping the tub over to the inside to make up the gap (close to 5/16") and then welding the tub under tension. So I flattened the flange, re-drew and made the flange where I needed it to be .... now I have a tub that is 2.75" through out the arc of the tub.

Take a look at the drivers side that has been reworked and re-flanged to make up the gap .... AND the flange is nice and crisp @ 90 w/o that 3/8 roll that came with the tub. Killed two birds with one body hammer and dolly :thumbsup:

http://imageshack.us/a/img837/9196/3gb0.jpg
The black sharpie line was the old flange line ... moved it over a bit!
http://imageshack.us/a/img202/4931/w323.jpg
That's how they should be stamped!

The sharper bend will close that gap between the inner and outer wheel house and look way better w/o 1/2" seam sealer .... yes?

Getting there ..... little more hammer and dolly work and then the welder comes out :headspin:

Thanks for looking .....

[Sonar Chief]

That could work Chief! I like the suggestion of some black stripes or accents. I think that would look very nostalgic and still have a bad ass modern muscle feel to it.:gitrdun:

:thumbsup: Thanks .... needs black fer sure. Thinking CHC 68 Project Redemption layout w/ that Desert Gold and black! I'll have to ask Chris' permission.

It could kind of be a new twist on the Smokey Yunick theme.

http://www.inflexwetrust.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/chevy-transe-am-camaro.jpg

See above post for image!

[Rick D]

Nice work Chief, yup that will look much better without the thick seam sealer!!

[Sonar Chief]

Nice work Chief, yup that will look much better without the thick seam sealer!!

:thankyou: Haven't work on her cuz my boys came out for a visit, one went home and the youngest stayed an extra week .... that's ok!

I'll get back on her this week .....:popcorn2:

[makoshark]

You really don't have to rub it into my face with those fancy new minitub flanges:mad:

Just kidding, I wanted to do that as well, but just didn't want to take the time to accomplish it. They look great!

Any chance your car is a factory a/c car? Mine isn't and I am installing the Vintage Air kit. I don't like the VA dash vents, so I want to go with the original style vent. They have an odd shaped hole and I'm having a difficult time marking out my dash to cut that hole.

[Sonar Chief]

You really don't have to rub it into my face with those fancy new minitub flanges:mad:

Just kidding, I wanted to do that as well, but just didn't want to take the time to accomplish it. They look great!

Any chance your car is a factory a/c car? Mine isn't and I am installing the Vintage Air kit. I don't like the VA dash vents, so I want to go with the original style vent. They have an odd shaped hole and I'm having a difficult time marking out my dash to cut that hole.

Jeremy .... sorry, mine is not an A/C car. Just got in off the road or I would have checked this sooner, hope someone has chimed in on your thread and helped out.

I wasn't rubbing in the flange :sarcasm_smiley:

[makoshark]

It's cool. I made a template off of a friend's 69 Firebird. If you plan to add air to your car and use the factory style vents, then I have a template along with my cutouts if you want them.

[Sonar Chief]

It's cool. I made a template off of a friend's 69 Firebird. If you plan to add air to your car and use the factory style vents, then I have a template along with my cutouts if you want them.

Jeremy .... I will take you up on that offer when the time comes :thankyou:


Well ... I have had this list of things to get done rolling around in my head and I got some of them done over the past few weeks:

http://imageshack.us/a/img713/8149/k1p5.jpg
Mini tub ready for final fit .... quarter on order!

http://imageshack.us/a/img594/4529/6f5l.jpg
Set ride height on jig ... naw, new rubber wheels.

http://imageshack.us/a/img832/8669/yith.jpg
Clean these up ....

http://imageshack.us/a/img42/2609/bqwy.jpg
Much better!

http://imageshack.us/a/img209/6480/44sx.jpg
Getting ready for Lizard Skin and some 3M bonding!

http://imageshack.us/a/img69/5407/1sa8.jpg
Almost ready for the skin!

http://imageshack.us/a/img541/1314/9w1a.jpg
Ouch, driver's side latch .... not good!!!!

So ... any suggestions on this driver's side latch? Are the repro's any good? I should be spraying epoxy primer tomorrow, Lizard skin and 3m bonding the passenger door skin if all goes well.

Spent most of today prepping and sweating the small stuff when I realized that I didn't have any room to MOVE the skin if I need to anyway ..... it's way too tight on the frame. Looks like I will have to use lots of GAP SPRAY :)

Thanks for lookin .....

[makoshark]

Looking good!

The reproduction door latches are fine. I have one on my driver's door. I misplaced my original and so had to get a repop. It works just fine.

I still have to remove the vent bezels from my dash. I haven't taken the time to do that as I've been knee deep working on my console. It's not fun trying to bend 16 gauge sheet metal with a body hammer, bench vice, c-clamps and some 1/4" plate steel. Next week I'm going to build a space shuttle capable of reaching Mars with a washing machine, some juicy fruit and hydrogen peroxide:wacko:

[seankc31]

I thought Chiefs only knew how to drink coffee...you got skills :bow: I'm prior navy gse3

[Sonar Chief]

Looking good!

The reproduction door latches are fine. I have one on my driver's door. I misplaced my original and so had to get a repop. It works just fine.

Thanks.

I thought Chiefs only knew how to drink coffee...you got skills :bow: I'm prior navy gse3

Thanks for your service .... attention to detail and drinking coffee are my top two skills! Now go and get something done that you should have gotten done yesterday .... and double time!!!!

:thankyou:

[kmdracer]

Lazy day today. No current project of my own, so am enjoying reading others. Chief, I'm just blown away by your work. Will be following along to completion.

[waynieZ]

Looking good Chief

[Sonar Chief]

Lazy day today. No current project of my own, so am enjoying reading others. Chief, I'm just blown away by your work. Will be following along to completion.

:thankyou: just trying to do it right the first time, don't want to do this again anytime soon! There's plenty more .....

Looking good Chief

:thankyou: Thanks Wayne, been tryin to get somethings done that I can in a day or two, waiting on my drivers quarter and then I'll open up that can of worms :superhack:

So, I had some hours in the garage today ... been so hot I had to get going at the crack of dawn in order to spray epoxy before it got too hot, wiped everything down taped off the edges and sprayed epoxy.

When it cooled off in the day I put down some Lizard Skin on the inside of the door skin .... in prep for the bonding of the door to the frame, tomorrow? Maybe .... here's some pictures to look through.

http://imageshack.us/a/img802/3960/p9ft.jpg
Door skin ready for epoxy!
http://imageshack.us/a/img844/4499/y0q8.jpg
Taped off edges for 3M bonding to frame.
http://imageshack.us/a/img580/1769/9pzg.jpg
Spraying epoxy finally ....
http://imageshack.us/a/img9/5233/kvh2.jpg
Lizard Skin on the inside of the door skin ... pretty cool stuff!
http://imageshack.us/a/img826/352/dvm8.jpg
She's ready for skins:hapdance:

So that's what I did today .... more tomorrow!

Thanks for looking ...

[Sonar Chief]

Thought I'd post some lessons learned from using Lizard Skins Sound Control product on my door skins .... in case someone was wondering!

The product is very easy to use ... provided you purchase their applicator gun, and the clean up is with water and soap. Mixed with the paddle provided and applied the first coat yesterday and let it dry, I tried to use the included WET FILM GAUGE to test thickness ... that just made a mess and confused me (simple minded), think credit card .036 thou and they want no less than .040 in two applications. That's the goal.

I used a plastic serving spoon to get it into the pot from the pail ... instead of pouring, cuz when it's done there is product left from the siphon angle and the spoon will get the remains out and back into the pail will little waste.

I used about 45 psi at the gun with a turn and a half on the adjustment tip for the second coat and you can see the texture it left .... more product more stipple, more air more drier dimpled look.

I used a razor blade to clean the edges that had over spray, you can sand and paint the product after it has fully dried ... and that is cool :gitrdun:

http://imageshack.us/a/img22/555/fq3q.jpg
Just after the second coat was sprayed!
http://imageshack.us/a/img94/4643/a1p4.jpg
Cured and dry!


Had other pictures but ImageShack is acting up with mongo pictures .....
Any questions, please ask.

[waynieZ]

Nice!

[Tony V]

Chief,
Looks real good and your doing a great job, great motivation for us to keep moving. I'm looking to spray L. skin in the next couple weeks and with your write up it seems something i can tackle without much worries..keep up the great work.

[jazz2069]

I like the idea of cutting the frame rail deep and widening the tub! More rear tire!!

[Smitty68]

Great job so far keep up the good work and the photos coming in. And thanks for your service to our country..:cheers:

[Sonar Chief]

Still here have not washed away with the floods here in NOCO! Man these last two days have been crazy, the Governor sent us home at noon ... so I went and worked on the car :relax: Planned to go archery elk hunting Sunday but all the roads up to the mountains are closed :bang:

Nice!

Thanks Wayne!

Chief,
Looks real good and your doing a great job, great motivation for us to keep moving. I'm looking to spray L. skin in the next couple weeks and with your write up it seems something i can tackle without much worries..keep up the great work.

Tony, it was pretty easy to work with, spray a test patch and adjust air and get a feel for the amount coming out. I ran with 1 1/2 out on the nozzle and that seemed to lay out nice. Good luck!

I like the idea of cutting the frame rail deep and widening the tub! More rear tire!!

More tire, MO BETTER!

Great job so far keep up the good work and the photos coming in. And thanks for your service to our country..:cheers:

:flag2: Thanks and there's plenty mo pictures!

So .... cleaned up the reinforcement pieces that the window fuzzies get attached to, still need to get some zinc primer on them and weld them to the outer door skin prior to attaching the skin. If the weather warms up I may try my hand at bonding the passenger side door skin......that's why there is bare metal all around the perimeter of the door skin and the frame... for the 3M Bonding.

http://imageshack.us/a/img29/3931/bhdu.jpg
Closeup of the Lizard Skin after pulled the tape.... 0.040?

http://imageshack.us/a/img856/8913/f98v.jpg
Touching up door with POR Chassis Black before I cover w/ skin!

Thanks for looking ....

[makoshark]

Excellent job there Chief! Keep the pixes coming

[Sonar Chief]

Excellent job there Chief! Keep the pixes coming

Thanks Jeremy ... trying to keep everyone motivated with pictures :buttkick:

So, it's been raining and flooding here in NOCO for a week and the temp never got above 60 so I could not get the door skins bonded, so plan B. Fit in the passenger side mini tub and get some measurements.

Made a go no go gauge outa wood that fits snug (41 5/8") and would keep things parallel with the drivers side tub ... worked well. Fit snug inside the backseat area, up and over the shock area and half way through the trunk .... and then I took a turn or something, it's metal I can fix it!

Pictures ..... here's the mini tub clamped with the measurements, the surprise was the tub in the trunk - there is a gap of 3/4" between them :confused59: , the front was 5/8" just like the driver's side. Same drill .... flatten the flange and move it over to fit the outer wheel house flange :popcorn2:

http://imageshack.us/a/img194/8273/r5g2.jpg
My go-no-go gauge fit in the trunk!
http://imageshack.us/a/img843/1043/b420.jpg
I undercut the floor at the end ... and there is a gap between the tubs.
http://imageshack.us/a/img37/2334/szfn.jpg
The front of the tub ... same as drivers side :disgusted:
http://imageshack.us/a/img41/224/i4ud.jpg
Wasn't expecting this fer sure ....

Quick depth measurements shows the same as the drivers side :hapdance: That's all for today, thanks for looking ....

[waynieZ]

it's metal I can fix it!

That's the best attitude to have and why your doing so well !I need to think that way a lot more. :thumbsup:

[Sonar Chief]

it's metal I can fix it!

That's the best attitude to have and why your doing so well !I need to think that way a lot more. :thumbsup:

I can work with metal, give me a piece of wood and I'll screw that up!

Man did I make a mess today with this 3M Bonding stuff. It was a good day in the garage, got the window fuzzy re-inforcement welded onto the door skin and epoxy primed the door frame and the door skin where the weather stripping attaches .... figured I better get it now before it was bonded together.

Then I cleaned the frame and the skin and put on the 3M Bonding adhesive and got at bending the skin over the frame .... this was my first door skin and I was a little apprehensive about messing it up and then the pressure of only having 90 minutes with the adhesive.

Well the adhesive was setting up before I came back around to wipe it off, so I guess I'll have to sand it off and re-prime .... no biggy. The skin is sealed, protected from corrosion and bonded all in one step.

Pictures.....

http://imageshack.us/a/img6/3862/dugr.jpg
Welded the re-reinforcement and epoxy primed
http://imageshack.us/a/img407/5369/imlu.jpg
Epoxy primed the frame while the skin was off.
http://imageshack.us/a/img443/4311/syq5.jpg
Covering all bare metal on the skin w/ 3M adhesive.
http://imageshack.us/a/img716/245/h7pp.jpg
Door frame gets same w/ bead on outside edge.
http://imageshack.us/a/img401/554/kioe.jpg
This top corner was a PITA!
http://imageshack.us/a/img542/532/gi6n.jpg
Skin came out pretty even.

So ... one down, I'll have to bring the door into the house to cure cuz the temps will get down to the 50's tonight. Next door I won't use so much bonding adhesive .... seems to squeeze out after you start bending and there is plenty to spread around, oh well.

Thanks for looking ....

[Sonar Chief]

Well that big mess I made yesterday w/ the adhesive actually worked out in my favor ... a razor and some 80 grit wrapped around a paint stick and it sanded down pretty easy, like having seam sealer and bondo in one!

This picture is why I went with adhesive instead of the traditional crimp and welding .... the adhesive pushed up into the inside of the door frame where they meet, there is no way water is getting in between the frame and that door skin!
http://imageshack.us/a/img600/1269/wy4w.jpg
Looking down the driver's side door!

Didn't get to the pass side door cuz the temp wasn't warm enough ... that's another day.

[makoshark]

You're making me want to reskin my perfectly good GM doors so I can make them turn out as well as yours'! Good job:cheers:

[Sonar Chief]

You're making me want to reskin my perfectly good GM doors so I can make them turn out as well as yours'! Good job:cheers:

:thankyou: I knew how I wanted the door finished .... just never done a door skin before, so with some patience and a second AMD door skin, 3M bonding adhesive, Lizard Skin Sound Control, POR 15 and some Finish One epoxy primer we have one finished door! :lol:

http://img856.imageshack.us/img856/8479/qd8y.jpg
FLASHBACK .... ouch!
http://imageshack.us/a/img571/174/u2we.jpg
MO BETTER ... some detail sanding left.

Working on the pass door .... hopefully it'll warm up some, 38 this morning should be 60? Thanks for looking ....

:gitrdun: Got-R-Did!

[Sonar Chief]

Got-R-Did the passenger door has a skin permanently attached! A good garage day fer sure, got the window fuzzy re-inforcement welded to the skin, epoxy primed that and the opposite side of the frame, broke out the 3M adhesive and got the skin on the frame.

http://imageshack.us/a/img855/7558/8n1z.jpg
Welded the window channel to the skin.
http://imageshack.us/a/img208/6246/mdui.jpg
Epoxy primed before the skin goes on.
http://imageshack.us/a/img202/9216/ua6y.jpg
Got 3M on all surfaces .... now the work begins!
http://imageshack.us/a/img690/5639/93e4.jpg
DONE!

Man I'm glad this isn't a 4 door .... I have to bring the door in the house to cure over night, I'll sand some other day. Trying to get things that need "ABOVE 70 DEGREES" cuz it's not going to be that warm much longer here.

Thanks for looking ....

[coolwelder62]

This probably going to be one of the best reassem. 1st gen gen's out there.Really going the extra mile.:trophy-1302:

[Sonar Chief]

This probably going to be one of the best reassem. 1st gen gen's out there.Really going the extra mile.:trophy-1302:

Thank you .... most of the details will be over looked by the average Joe, but I know it was done correctly! Maybe my car would be worthy of one of your sub-frames someday? It's not in the budget right now, but .....

[waynieZ]

It looks great Chief. I was just reading about door skin replacement in Chevy Hp .

[Sonar Chief]

It looks great Chief. I was just reading about door skin replacement in Chevy Hp .

:thankyou: Hey Wayne ... in your reading there, am I doing this right? :D

[67zo6Camaro]

This probably going to be one of the best reassem. 1st gen gen's out there.Really going the extra mile.:trophy-1302:

agreed, great job at the detail.

[Sonar Chief]

agreed, great job at the detail.

:thankyou: :thankyou: that means lot to me! I know what I need to do to make it better than GM and with all the great ideas on this forum I just keep moving forward.

I saw Craig's door re-skin in Chevy HP .... nice article, he's the genuine body man alright! But I know my bonded re-skin will keep out water from between the frame and the skin, Craig's method is no better than GM .... time warp into 2013 maybe?

[tubbed69]

you sure are doing things better than GM,great work so far:thumbsup:

[coolwelder62]

Thank you .... most of the details will be over looked by the average Joe, but I know it was done correctly! Maybe my car would be worthy of one of your sub-frames someday? It's not in the budget right now, but .....How about if I make you a special good guy deal.Call me next week.:thumbsup:

[Sonar Chief]

you sure are doing things better than GM,great work so far:thumbsup:

:thankyou: Wished they had done a better job the first time .... cuz I wouldn't have to do all this damn work. Thanks for the compliment, still a long way to go!

How about if I make you a special good guy deal.Call me next week.:thumbsup:

You must be at the GG in Texas .... I am jealous. My sister lives nearby in Keller, yeah I'm jealous. I'm on the road next week, I'll find time during the day, working nights on the reservoir.

Another good garage day ..... got the garage heated up and the skins all sanded down, looks presentable now. Couldn't spray epoxy today too cold so I installed my new driver's side door latch and hung the door.

Came out pretty close for an aftermarket skin, fiddled with the hinges, placed paint sticks (3/16) in door sill for reference and tightened all down.
The rear bottom corner is a little tight, but I think I can adjust that out :thumbsup:
Now if my AMD quarter will ever get here I will have a reference with the door and can proceed from there.

Here's some pictures ....

http://imageshack.us/a/img689/4736/4bo8.jpg
Both doors sanded down and ready for some epoxy!

http://imageshack.us/a/img812/4927/3qjq.jpg
Lining up the door!

http://imageshack.us/a/img12/3444/bvnf.jpg
About as close as I can get them :thumbsup:

http://imageshack.us/a/img824/1443/wl8h.jpg
Fits better than I thought it would :ohsnap:

Well, that's what I did today .... hopefully I can get the passenger side door hung and it fits this nice (crossed fingers). Gotta keep plugging away !!!!

Thanks for looking .....

[makoshark]

Excellent work! What epoxy primer are you using?

[Sonar Chief]

Excellent work! What epoxy primer are you using?

:thankyou: Jeremy ..... was thinking about your alignment issues when I said to myself "I can't be this close already" She's getting there. I'll see how the pass side goes today, need to get the garage warmed up first .... we've already had SNOW!

I am using Finish One epoxy primer, I get it at Napa cuz it's cheaper than the Sherwin Williams Automotive paint place here in town. Figure if it's good enough for Pete Jackson's car (of Barrett Jackson) it's good enough for little ol me!

[makoshark]

I wouldn't be too worried about any alignment issues. Now that you are aware of the severity of panel alignment from seeing my experiences, I feel you'll be able to have everything where you need/want it with a little tweaking. It's good that you are cognizant of the issue this early in the stage though. I think that will work in your favor:)

I'm sure that epoxy is plenty good. The reason I asked was I'm switching from the Dupont epoxy I had been using and going to HOK epoxy. The HOK epoxy is about the same color as what you are using. Does your's mix A/B with a 1:1 ratio or does it have a catalyst that it mixes with? The dupont I've been using has a nice sheen, which gives you the ability to see imperfections in the body and is tough as nails, but their catalyst has no shelf life.

[Sonar Chief]

I wouldn't be too worried about any alignment issues. Now that you are aware of the severity of panel alignment from seeing my experiences, I feel you'll be able to have everything where you need/want it with a little tweaking. It's good that you are cognizant of the issue this early in the stage though. I think that will work in your favor:)

I'm sure that epoxy is plenty good. The reason I asked was I'm switching from the Dupont epoxy I had been using and going to HOK epoxy. The HOK epoxy is about the same color as what you are using. Does your's mix A/B with a 1:1 ratio or does it have a catalyst that it mixes with? The dupont I've been using has a nice sheen, which gives you the ability to see imperfections in the body and is tough as nails, but their catalyst has no shelf life.

Jeremy ....messed w/ passenger side door yesterday, it didn't go as nice as the drivers side, go figure. I'll post some pixs later today, maybe the fra.... is bent?, I didn't want to say that out loud, but something is tweaked.:bang: :bang:

Anyway, the Finish One mixes 1:1 and is a very nice epoxy from what I know so far, the car will get sanded and another coat of epoxy and then the primer coat starts.

[Sonar Chief]

is seeing it my way , felt like a chiropractor today .... tweaking the passenger side door to line up with the body! Hold the top and push the bottom in, move over a couple inches and repeat as necessary until body lines up :popcorn2: The door frame must have been tweaked ... my body man said to line up the door front rocker and the back top and start tweaking and she'll come in, I got er within 3/16 by myself and now I'll need some help to get the rest out ....

Here's some pictures .... is this the most ugly door gap you've ever seen? Not even GAP SPRAY can fix this :disgusted:

http://imageshack.us/a/img820/9815/rktg.jpg

http://imageshack.us/a/img18/5853/rk02.jpg

http://imageshack.us/a/img23/9425/tdk8.jpg


Anyway .... if anyone has any ideas please chime in, I don't want to reskin this dang door!

Thanks for looking...

[Rod P]

follow this Jeff Lilly (http://www.jefflilly.com/fabrication/36-door-fit/) gap detailing page he welds in some metal on the door edge and then trims it back to the perfect edge

[BBC71Nova]

When Dan@Holohan's replaced my door skin it was as bad or worse than that. He added metal to the door edge like was mentioned. Nice clean gaps now :-)

[makoshark]

Yup, welding rod or thick coat hanger welded to the door edge will get you there with a little finesse grinding.

Sent you an email with the instructions for cutting out your dash to accept the factory vents

[Sonar Chief]

3400 lumens to be exact!!!! OK, this isn't my Camaro but I did have to use a crimping tool that I bought for the Camaro to do Weatherpak connection to get my new LED headlight wired onto my XR650R (that's my other addition :thumbsup: ) See the street legal kit only had a H4 55w light and it sucked so .... go big or go home, how about 3400 lumens outa of 4 leds that only measure 3X3" ? That's what I said!!!! So I had to go for a ride around the reservoir, little chilly here after the sun goes down, man what a difference .... 3400 lumens is a lot of light:headspin:

So, my driver's side quarter came in but I had to get the bike put back together to get that project done and outa the way for the camaro .... weekend work :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

Pictures .....

http://imageshack.us/a/img546/4628/xr5f.jpg
Now I can do all the pins I need on the Camaro too :thumbsup:
http://imageshack.us/a/img18/5111/gqy7.jpg
3400 Lumens outa a 3"X3", that's awesome!!!!
http://imageshack.us/a/img62/8023/yuux.jpg
Can you say ... light for close to 300' ?
http://imageshack.us/a/img692/5209/mxly.jpg
Someone has a degree in Origami to package this!!!

Anyway, bike is done for now .... time to look over that quarter panel tomorrow!

Thanks for looking ......

[makoshark]

Are you replacing both quarters or just the driver's side?

The light looks cool:thumbsup:

[Sonar Chief]

Are you replacing both quarters or just the driver's side?

The light looks cool:thumbsup:

I am replacing both quarters .... as soon as I get a quarter that resembles the quarter that's on my car, which the AMD quarter does not!!!!!!

The outside quarter channel doesn't match OEM (5/8"), actually decreases in width from front to back. :disgusted:

http://imageshack.us/a/img513/5730/4ll1.jpg
This is my GM quarter still on the car, notice the quarter channel!
http://imageshack.us/a/img707/3792/rau1.jpg
The very front is close ....
http://imageshack.us/a/img850/9320/z0my.jpg
This is the middle ...
http://imageshack.us/a/img23/7602/jazk.jpg
Back by the window.
http://imageshack.us/a/img202/2517/vb91.jpg
My car's stamping in door jamb!
http://imageshack.us/a/img820/7863/ivev.jpg
One of these doesn't look like the other!

I have other pictures of this quarter on ImageShack that make me cringe ..... am I asking too much of this quarter panel? of this industry? Can someone make a quarter that looks like a 67 Camaro driver's side quarter, please call me!

[Chassisworks]

3400 lumens to be exact!!!!
http://imageshack.us/a/img18/5111/gqy7.jpg


Nice! Who is this lamp from? One of my riding buddies has a 650R and has been complaining about his headlight.

[makoshark]

I measured my driver's side quarter and I get a consistent 5/8" all the way from the front to the back. That's with taking a tape measure and measuring to where the outside of the quarter starts to make the bend. If you want to keep that quarter, then I'd slice it right down the middle from front to rear and make it a consistent measurement, matching your factory quarter width.

As for the door jamb, what build date is your car? I know that my quarters are NOS 67 coupe quarters, but they are later build quarters. It's my understanding that the 67's had the full telephone receiver in the early run, but that switched to what the reproduction has later in the build year. My NOS quarters have the same jamb stamping as your reproduction. My original quarters looked just like your original quarters, so I wouldn't stress much on the difference in the stampings there.

[Sonar Chief]

Nice! Who is this lamp from? One of my riding buddies has a 650R and has been complaining about his headlight.

Carl ... this is a Baja Designs Squadron Led Race light, read not DOT. I will ride on the street until someone stops me, I would rather be seen than pulled out in front of, been there twice now.... not fun!

[Sonar Chief]

I measured my driver's side quarter and I get a consistent 5/8" all the way from the front to the back. That's with taking a tape measure and measuring to where the outside of the quarter starts to make the bend. If you want to keep that quarter, then I'd slice it right down the middle from front to rear and make it a consistent measurement, matching your factory quarter width.

As for the door jamb, what build date is your car? I know that my quarters are NOS 67 coupe quarters, but they are later build quarters. It's my understanding that the 67's had the full telephone receiver in the early run, but that switched to what the reproduction has later in the build year. My NOS quarters have the same jamb stamping as your reproduction. My original quarters looked just like your original quarters, so I wouldn't stress much on the difference in the stampings there.

Jeremy ... I measured my NOS quarter and I get a consistent 5/8" also, this AMD starts just at 5/8" and tapers to 3/8" back by the window, that's crap stamping. The other option is to keep my window lip and cut in the AMD under that .... what APITA!

Did you look at my ImageShack page at the other spot that is messed up? Top of the door jamb where the windlace meets, think forward weather strip for the quarter glass just below the window channel????? Messed up!!!!!

My Camaro is an early Jan 67 so that would make sense with the stamp shape on the jamb, didn't know there was a difference, thanks.

I haven't even got to the trunk area yet, or the tail pan ..... waiting on the AMD rep to come and look at this quarter!

[Chassisworks]

Carl ... this is a Baja Designs Squadron Led Race light, read not DOT. I will ride on the street until someone stops me, I would rather be seen than pulled out in front of, been there twice now.... not fun!

Thanks! I saw it was a Baja Designs enclosure but wasn't sure if they made the lamp too. We can get away with a fair amount on the dual sports in California. As long as you don't ride like an idiot in town, that is.

[makoshark]

Jeremy ... I measured my NOS quarter and I get a consistent 5/8" also, this AMD starts just at 5/8" and tapers to 3/8" back by the window, that's crap stamping. The other option is to keep my window lip and cut in the AMD under that .... what APITA!

Did you look at my ImageShack page at the other spot that is messed up? Top of the door jamb where the windlace meets, think forward weather strip for the quarter glass just below the window channel????? Messed up!!!!!

My Camaro is an early Jan 67 so that would make sense with the stamp shape on the jamb, didn't know there was a difference, thanks.

I haven't even got to the trunk area yet, or the tail pan ..... waiting on the AMD rep to come and look at this quarter!

I see a little bit of metal missing in the jamb where the windlace meets, but other than that, I don't really see anything wrong with the AMD quarter there. I'm not there to see them in person, so its difficult to tell. I'm aware of the problems with the quarters not fitting well in the trunk channel and around the tail panel, but don't recall ever hearing anything about poor fitment in the door jamb area.

It's good you have an AMD rep in your area that can come by there and check out the problems in person. Hopefully, they will get your problems taken care of.

With my experience, nothing fits the car like the original part did. That's even with NOS parts. I've had to modify every panel on my car to get a better fitment and that even includes the original panels I removed from the car!

[Sonar Chief]

they are all like that!!! AMD says the 67 quarters in house have the same taper in them as the one I have here :headscratch: Great .... you'd think someone would QA the stampings every now and then, say every 50 quarter panels?

Has anyone had better luck with another vendors quarter panels for a 67 Camaro?

Please chime in ....

[makoshark]

Maybe search or ask around on Team Camaros about different brand quarters fitment. Getting technical questions answered here seems to be hit-or-miss.

I would be more inclined to fix the problem with the AMD quarter you have, but that's just me:)

[Firebird-Geek]

I think you will find there are issues with almost every repo quarter out there... I guess it is the nature of the beast when dealing with these Taiwan stamped out parts. Kind of a pick your poison, for it seems that you may find a quarter that fits a certain area better, but then is worse in another!:bang:

I know I didn't like my driver side quarter panel fitment... until I ordered another one and that one made the first one look great! :wacko:

[Sonar Chief]

Maybe search or ask around on Team Camaros about different brand quarters fitment. Getting technical questions answered here seems to be hit-or-miss.

I would be more inclined to fix the problem with the AMD quarter you have, but that's just me:)

I won't bother with them. I know that is the correct answer also ... just makes me angry :bur2: that the industry can get away with stamping crap or I can do without!

I'll make due ... just another delay with aftermarket parts fitting like crap :bang: :bang:

What happened to a company taking pride in their quality parts? You call AMD and listen to them brag about how their 67-69 quarter panels fitting better than anyone other company .... it's their hold message :headscratch:

[Sonar Chief]

I think you will find there are issues with almost every repo quarter out there... I guess it is the nature of the beast when dealing with these Taiwan stamped out parts. Kind of a pick your poison, for it seems that you may find a quarter that fits a certain area better, but then is worse in another!:bang:

I know I didn't like my driver side quarter panel fitment... until I ordered another one and that one made the first one look great! :wacko:

I know what you're stepping in .... what company did you end up with your quarters? How was the window channel?

I know you have a conv, on the coupe GM has a 5/8" and the AMD came with a taper cuz the stamp is crap .... so I will have to use my channel and splice the quarter into it and whatever else fits like crap.

Your car is looking very sharp by the way, I like your string idea. Are those AMD doors? How's the lines?

Keep up the good work ....

[Sonar Chief]

a driver's quarter today .... good garage day! Left the jamb area and the window channel .... thinking I might use them both, the channel fer sure, need to clean up the surface rust and get some epoxy on the undersides.

I think I will try and save my jamb area and reuse most of it, it's gotta come off gently and epoxy everything underneath .... heck the door fits this quarter better than the AMD one anyhow!

At least I have full access to the mini tubs now!!!!!

QUESTION: What is everyone else doing with the tail pan area of the quarter panel? It is supposed to tuck in under the tail pan and then the tail pan gets welded on, right? That's the way it looks like on my car. How can I even check the quarter for fitment with the flange in the way? I really don't want to take the tail pan off just to get quarters on .... even thou that's the correct answer :headspin:

Pictures ...

http://imageshack.us/a/img11/8023/vxxz.jpg
Got most the quarter off today!
http://imageshack.us/a/img542/1123/pof8.jpg
Rust under the window channel :bur2: at least it's parallel. AMD is NOT!!!!
http://imageshack.us/a/img407/1496/9i1a.jpg
Working on the tail panel .... cleaned up pretty good!
http://imageshack.us/a/img546/2652/ssfl.jpg
You can see rust in front of the door jamb .... got to come off...... grrrr!!

Thanks for looking ....

[makoshark]

Looks like you still have a section of the old quarter at the bottom of the tail panel still attached. What about cutting this same section off of the new quarter and welding the new to the old right at that seam? That is how I did my quarters at the roof seam. What I did on the tail panel area you are inquiring about is I cut off the lip from the quarter in that section and left just a little bit of it at the bottom and then the area that tucks behind the tail panel at the bumper line. Between those areas I have just a seam.

[Sonar Chief]

Looks like you still have a section of the old quarter at the bottom of the tail panel still attached. What about cutting this same section off of the new quarter and welding the new to the old right at that seam? That is how I did my quarters at the roof seam. What I did on the tail panel area you are inquiring about is I cut off the lip from the quarter in that section and left just a little bit of it at the bottom and then the area that tucks behind the tail panel at the bumper line. Between those areas I have just a seam.

Jeremy ...that's what I thought you'd say, I left a little there but it's got rust from water sitting in the back of the quarter. I POR'd it awhile ago but I don't know if there is enough to weld to without blowing through!

[makoshark]

Jeremy ...that's what I thought you'd say,

Have I become that predictable?:)

Ok, one other thought: what about taking a piece of scrap sheetmetal cut at about 1/2" wide at the length of the area in discussion and attach it to the back of the old quarter or the new quarter? This way, you'd have a backer to keep from getting blow-through. I'm not sure, though, if there is enough room to make that happen. If there is, it may be a viable option.

[KPC67]

I would just drill the spot welds needed to remove the little bit of the old quarter, and then tuck then new panel in it's proper place.:superhack:

[Sonar Chief]

Got the jamb off, what APITA! I'm glad I got to the back of jamb .... seems there was a little critter house and RUST, grrrrr!

Got the quarter panel out from behind the tail pan, not too bad! I braced my window channel with some angle and commenced cutting that jamb off, cleaned it up some but will require some more attention and some POR15. Only thing left of the old quarter is the drip rail and where she's welded to the car under the roof line.

http://imageshack.com/scaled/1024x768/15/98c3.jpg
Drilled out the spot welds and got the quarter from behind the tail pan.
http://imageshack.com/scaled/1024x768/191/0ejg.jpg
Overall not too bad .... sure couldn't leave it that way, could you?
http://imageshack.com/scaled/1024x768/39/beoz.jpg
The back side ... this would keep rusting of course!!
http://imageshack.com/scaled/1024x768/69/6rzb.jpg
Little bit of TLC ... more time and some POR15 and she'll be good:thumbsup:

Good garage day for sure, made a big mess, no one bothered me and I got some progress on the quarter. Hopefully I can get the last remaining quarter parts off and start addressing my window channel and check fitment tomorrow.

Thank a Veteran and have a good day tomorrow!!!!

[makoshark]

Looks good Chief!

On my car, when I removed the original quarter, the door jamb brace nearly fell off of the car. The factory spot welds did not take very well. I had to reweld mine. Check and make sure yours is welded in place well.

[Sonar Chief]

Looks good Chief!

On my car, when I removed the original quarter, the door jamb brace nearly fell off of the car. The factory spot welds did not take very well. I had to reweld mine. Check and make sure yours is welded in place well.

:thankyou: The jamb brace is welded nice and strong .... guess someone was doing their job that day :thumbsup:

Got the metal all cleaned up and POR15'd the rusty spots the other night and today was going to be the nicest day of the weekend ... so I sprayed some epoxy, it's easier to heat up the garage if it's 50's outside than 30's!

I also cut up the AMD quarter so I can use the GM window channel and did a test fit .... looks OK otherwise! I'll work on getting the two welded together this weekend I hope!

http://imageshack.us/a/img43/929/j79j.jpg
Cleaned up and POR'd .... much better now!

http://imageshack.us/a/img706/999/orpf.jpg
Sprayed two coats of epoxy .... getting there!

I'm still plugging along .... trying to get out there as much as I can with the weather being so nice. I still need to prep the inside of the quarter and get some Lizard Skin sprayed before it gets to cold ... there's always something to do, huh?

Thanks for looking ....

[Sonar Chief]

This quarter panel is being APITA to get on and back off! Seems the sail panel has an angle to get under the drip rail and it's not the same angle of the dangle needed to get the flange under the door jamb!!!! I did get the window channel screwed into the quarter and cut from the body, marked a couple of spots that needed attention and took the quarter panel off ....

I am thinking of drilling out the door jamb reinforcement and place it on the quarter panel first and then the quarter panel should come off and go back on without tension and fighting the sail panel at the same time getting under that flange. ANY PROBLEMS YOU GUYS SEE WITH THIS? GM built the car from the outside in .... should be ok right?

Here's the lastest pictures ...

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/703/dy45.jpg
Actually looking like a car!
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/547/lyb3.jpg
Screwed the quarter to the GM window channel!
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/541/mwk8.jpg
Kept the GM corner for reference ... NOT AS CRISP!!!!!

Anyway ... couple hours in the garage today, hard to keep it above 50!!!
I'll work on getting the jamb off this week and positioned on the quarter. still need to tighten up some of the gaps around the tail pan too.


Thanks for looking

[tubbed69]

Chief you are doing amazing work,this car will be way better than new,I don't blame you for using your existing window channel because no aftermarket quarter fits right in that area.Keep up the good I mean perfect work your doing,good luck.:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

[makoshark]

I remember putting the quarter on and off my car so many times I lost count. It was never easy to take off and put back on. The sail panel area was the area that would give me fits. I feel for ya right now, but it will soon be behind you.

As for the jamb brace, I can't say I have ever seen what you propose, but I can't think of any reason why it wouldn't work that way.

[waynieZ]

Chief you are doing amazing work,this car will be way better than new,I don't blame you for using your existing window channel because no aftermarket quarter fits right in that area.Keep up the good I mean perfect work your doing,good luck.:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

Forge on Chief ! Nice work.

[Sonar Chief]

Chief you are doing amazing work,this car will be way better than new,I don't blame you for using your existing window channel because no aftermarket quarter fits right in that area.Keep up the good I mean perfect work your doing,good luck.:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

Thank you .... yeah that window channel wasn't even close to GM, I'm glad I was able to save the channel and it will come out better than the repo parts. Just need to get them welded together without too much fuss.

I remember putting the quarter on and off my car so many times I lost count. It was never easy to take off and put back on. The sail panel area was the area that would give me fits. I feel for ya right now, but it will soon be behind you.

As for the jamb brace, I can't say I have ever seen what you propose, but I can't think of any reason why it wouldn't work that way.

I think it will work just fine .... just ordered a Cleco kit and extra pins from Eastwood to ease the on/off of the quarter panel, unfortunately it should get here the same time as the cold front .... TODAY!!!!!

So the plan to get some more work done this week .... 6-10 inches of SNOW and it's not gonna get above the teens during the day and negative temps at night ..... and maybe 20 degrees by Monday!!!!

That's too cold to try to heat up to 50 :bang: Wish I could bring the car into the living room to work on!


Forge on Chief ! Nice work.


Thanks Wayne ... how is your health and the car coming along?

[waynieZ]

Health is pretty good I lost 60lbs sense Sept. and tinkering with the wiring.
Thanks for asking.

[67zo6Camaro]

Sweet detail as usual SC.

[makoshark]

Looks like you pushed that cold weather my way. Weather forecast here is showing as low as 9* for the low Monday night. That is unusually low for around here. I feel for you guys that have to endure these extra cold temps during the winter months.

[Sonar Chief]

Health is pretty good I lost 60lbs sense Sept. and tinkering with the wiring.
Thanks for asking.

That's great! Remember the car is also a form of therapy :thumbsup:

Sweet detail as usual SC.

Thanks ... wished it was warm enough to work on the car - today supposed to be 5, that's the high -14 is the low.

Looks like you pushed that cold weather my way. Weather forecast here is showing as low as 9* for the low Monday night. That is unusually low for around here. I feel for you guys that have to endure these extra cold temps during the winter months.

Yeah it's unusually cold here ... it might hit 20 by Tuesday :thumbsup:

[coolwelder62]

SC, The car is coming along great.Your part's are all cut and waiting to be welded.

[Ron in SoCal]

^ Big Mock...4k posts :thumbsup:

[renegade6]

How are you heating your garage to paint?

[Sonar Chief]

SC, The car is coming along great.Your part's are all cut and waiting to be welded.

Thanks Scott .... I'm excited to see it!!!!! Question .... does it matter who I get the solid body bushings from? Just wanted to make sure before I ordered.


How are you heating your garage to paint?

I have a little torpedo propane heater from HD ... when it gets below 30 (it's -4 degrees now!!) it's not going to heat the garage or the car enough to paint. That is why I sprayed when it was 50 and it was easier to heat things up to 70 degrees.

I can't wait for the cold front to get the heck outa here so I can get back in the garage .... supposed to be 10 degrees today!!!

[makoshark]

Did you order a Scott Mock subframe!?:popcorn2:

[Sonar Chief]

Did you order a Scott Mock subframe!?:popcorn2:

I did :innocent: should be here for Xmas :ups:

[makoshark]

I did :innocent: should be here for Xmas :ups:

Awesome! Can't wait to see the pixes of it. What else have you bought that you're holding out on us about?

[coolwelder62]

No, as long they will fit an 1.5 hole in the frame.

[Sonar Chief]

Holding out? Naw that's it ... just bought the bare frame and I will add the C6 stuff, sway bar and rack when funds come in. I needed a subframe to attach the front end sheet metal to ... so it was an easy choice really!!!!

Gonna run 315's on all for corners :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

[waynieZ]

The car should be awesome on Scotts frame.

[Steve68]

Hey Chief, Talked to the guys at Rick's prolly 10-15 yrs ago, they told me,

"we had talked to some guys that worked at GM building Camaros in the 60's, if they didn't go together with less than a gallon of bondo or have to beat the sail panel area with a rubber mallet to get everything to fit it, was not a normal car,

I know my car looked like someone beat it with a ballpeen hammer in the seem on the passenger side, Now, how true is all of this, I'm not sure,

oh yea, I have a SMD subframe too, very nice, building my building right now, so I can work on my car sometime soon,

and stay warm!!! Nice work,

I don't have a thread here or the P-T board, I'm not worthy, but I have one at LStech in the conversion thread,

[Sonar Chief]

No, as long they will fit an 1.5 hole in the frame.

So any vendors subframe bushing will work? Cool ....

The car should be awesome on Scotts frame.

Ya know, that's exactly what I said ....

Hey Chief, Talked to the guys at Rick's prolly 10-15 yrs ago, they told me,

"we had talked to some guys that worked at GM building Camaros in the 60's, if they didn't go together with less than a gallon of bondo or have to beat the sail panel area with a rubber mallet to get everything to fit it, was not a normal car,

I know my car looked like someone beat it with a ballpeen hammer in the seem on the passenger side, Now, how true is all of this, I'm not sure,

oh yea, I have a SMD subframe too, very nice, building my building right now, so I can work on my car sometime soon,

and stay warm!!! Nice work,

I don't have a thread here or the P-T board, I'm not worthy, but I have one at LStech in the conversion thread,

How long til it's complete? Get back on the car soon :poke: I read some of your posts over at LS1Tech, pretty cool!

[Roberts68]

Dang Chief, NICE self present... Or present to the Camaro if you rather. congratulations!

[coolwelder62]

Holding out? Naw that's it ... just bought the bare frame and I will add the C6 stuff, sway bar and rack when funds come in. I needed a subframe to attach the front end sheet metal to ... so it was an easy choice really!!!!

Gonna run 315's on all for corners :thumbsup: :thumbsup:The bare frame comes with a splined sway bar and hardware kit.I like the DSE body bushing kit.

[makoshark]

Gonna run 315's on all for corners :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

315's all the way around...nice!

What are you going to use for a front wheel well? Modify the stock ones or aftermarket? The stock ones really don't even accommodate 275's:(

[Sonar Chief]

Dang Chief, NICE self present... Or present to the Camaro if you rather. congratulations!

Yeah, it's just like Xmas :ups:

The bare frame comes with a splined sway bar and hardware kit.I like the DSE body bushing kit.

I looked at DSE's, looks nice enough .... but $99 for bolts? That's absurd!!!


315's all the way around...nice!

What are you going to use for a front wheel well? Modify the stock ones or aftermarket? The stock ones really don't even accommodate 275's:(

I have been looking over newer model cars that have plastic inner wells... kinda like my truck. If I can find a liner that has the same radius and depth I think I can make it work ... if not I'll hack up the GM ones.

Does anyone know if Anvil's inners will fit a 315/30/18 on a 67 ?

[Roberts68]

Does anyone know if Anvil's inners will fit a 315/30/18 on a 67 ?

Take a look at Stielows XV thread for comments on the Anvil inner fenders, and watch for comments from another guy posting in there that is also using them. I personally do not know how universal they are for a 67 compared to a 69 but I bet Anvil could answer that for you.

FWIW I bought Speedtech body bushing kit and although I have not put it to use the parts are very nice. If it is the bolts that detract you from the DSE perhaps you want to do your homework and special order whatever bolts you need through your local Fastenal or equivalent store. DSE stuff is truly top notch but $100 for that package seemed rather steep to me too for what it is.

I would comment further on the Speedtech bolts but I have not looked in the box for awhile. I can say I was satisfied when I looked at it or I would have ordered in the very best by now. I get a screaming discount on misc hardware, even the weird stuff.

This is going to be an exceptional Camaro, no doubt about that.

[makoshark]

I purchased Global West bushings. They are very nice and were about the cheapest I found available. As long as they are inter-locking, then they are all pretty much the same.

I just found the Anvil inners say they accommodate 10" wide tires, but they call them deep tub. A call to them would clarify. My 275's are wider than 10" and do fit in the inner tub, but I'm going to do some massaging to the metal to make sure I get no interference later once I get the car drivable. IF I ever get it drivable.

[makoshark]

From Anvil's site...


67-68 INNER FENDERS
67-68 CAMARO INNER FENDER Replace your steel originals with lightweight, smooth carbon fiber inner fenders. Custom made to allow for more clearance in the outer lip, wider and taller than stock. These supercar inner fenders allow 10 inch wide tires to be used on cars with corresponding frame clearances.

[coolwelder62]

SC,look to Mcmaster-carr.com for some nice SS 5/8 bolts.

[Sonar Chief]

I purchased Global West bushings. They are very nice and were about the cheapest I found available. As long as they are inter-locking, then they are all pretty much the same.

I just found the Anvil inners say they accommodate 10" wide tires, but they call them deep tub. A call to them would clarify. My 275's are wider than 10" and do fit in the inner tub, but I'm going to do some massaging to the metal to make sure I get no interference later once I get the car drivable. IF I ever get it drivable.


Thanks Jeremy ... just ordered the Global West bushing thru Jegs, good price they are interlocking!


SC,look to Mcmaster-carr.com for some nice SS 5/8 bolts.

I will look there, there is a Fastenal here in town ... I'll try them first! Thanks.


Got out in the garage with the heat going, finally got above freezing outside ... maybe 40? So I got the jamb brace drilled out and got to use my new Clecos .... those are cool. Definitely made getting the quarter on and off much easier and I could just slip the brace in thru the wheel well opening and cleco it in place and not have to wrestle with the quarter.

The lower part of the quarter that meets the rocker panel is not stamped correctly ... to low in the back and when you push it in place onto the rocker it bows the quarter and puts it under tension .... NOT GOOD!!!!

I'll have to think this one over, meanwhile take a look at the pictures and chime in if you have an idea to get this correct. I don't really want to straighten the flange and re bend it, .....but

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/209/zzj3.jpg
Got the brace off and cleaned up the metal.
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/534/4dc5.jpg
Got to use the clecos I ordered ... these are the Cat's Pajamas!!!
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/9/05cg.jpg
It makes contact with the rear first and if I force it .... the quarter panel is under tension, NOT GOOD!!!!!!

Only got to work in the garage a couple hours cuz of my back being tweaked ... MRI told of two bulging discs, hurts like heck and my legs go to sleep!!! Anyway, any good ideas on this panel?

Thanks for looking ....

[makoshark]

Ouch! Sorry to hear about your back problems. Is this a recent development or have you been dealing with it often? I know so many people with back problems and it makes me feel fortunate to not, at least, have back problems. Hope it gets to feeling better for you!

Car's looking great, as always.

Snap a picture of the back and at the sail panel area, so we can see more of what's going on. Quarters can be such a pain to deal with, but once you find that magical position, they seem to almost fall in place. You're right though, if it's under tension, then something isn't right.

How does the alignment look at the bumper line in the rear?

[Sonar Chief]

:smiley_smack: Ouch! Sorry to hear about your back problems. Is this a recent development or have you been dealing with it often? I know so many people with back problems and it makes me feel fortunate to not, at least, have back problems. Hope it gets to feeling better for you!

Car's looking great, as always.

Snap a picture of the back and at the sail panel area, so we can see more of what's going on. Quarters can be such a pain to deal with, but once you find that magical position, they seem to almost fall in place. You're right though, if it's under tension, then something isn't right.

How does the alignment look at the bumper line in the rear?


My back was fine until this summer's field work ....must have done somethin'? The alignment at the bumper line looks good ... I haven't really messed with the back much, I'll try and get some pictures today. Supposed to be 49 today ... and if I can get the garage to that temp I'll be happy:)

A fix I dreamed about .... slice off the lower inch, line it up correctly and weld in a piece of 1 inch 18 ga angle! Or... hammer the flange flat and re bend it were it needs to be .....GRRRRRR!

Thanks!

[waynieZ]

Take it easy doing little things in the garage it takes very little to set you back a long way. Hope you feel better.

[lodeb]

:smiley_smack:


My back was fine until this summer's field work ....must have done somethin'? The alignment at the bumper line looks good ... I haven't really messed with the back much, I'll try and get some pictures today. Supposed to be 49 today ... and if I can get the garage to that temp I'll be happy:)

A fix I dreamed about .... slice off the lower inch, line it up correctly and weld in a piece of 1 inch 18 ga angle! Or... hammer the flange flat and re bend it were it needs to be .....GRRRRRR!

Thanks!

Well, I just read your post and I congratulate you for your courage.
As it must have to do all the body work which you attack you, there is not a place where you do not have rust. Really impressive!

For my part - the other side of the Atlantic because I'm French - I also restore a 1st gen 67 RS SS 396. I order my parts from you in the USA (summit, Rick's) and like you I completely disassembled. Luckily, no rust.

I'll really say congratulations on your perseverance and courage.

http://imageshack.us/a/img838/8146/restauration233.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img545/5751/restauration231.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img40/1289/restauration226.jpg

Et ça c'est juste pour faire la comparaison avec ton travail sur lequel je suis admiratif :thumbsup:

[Roberts68]

Et ça c'est juste pour faire la comparaison avec ton travail sur lequel je suis admiratif :thumbsup:

I had to translate it with Google...

"And that's just to make the comparison with his work which I admire"

I can probably speak for many of us and say that we feel the same way about Chiefs work.

[Sonar Chief]

Take it easy doing little things in the garage it takes very little to set you back a long way. Hope you feel better.

Yeah I know ... just from Saturday's work the back is acting up. I have an apt for my back in two weeks, can't come any faster!


Well, I just read your post and I congratulate you for your courage.
As it must have to do all the body work which you attack you, there is not a place where you do not have rust. Really impressive!

For my part - the other side of the Atlantic because I'm French - I also restore a 1st gen 67 RS SS 396. I order my parts from you in the USA (summit, Rick's) and like you I completely disassembled. Luckily, no rust.

I'll really say congratulations on your perseverance and courage.

http://imageshack.us/a/img838/8146/restauration233.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img545/5751/restauration231.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img40/1289/restauration226.jpg

Et ça c'est juste pour faire la comparaison avec ton travail sur lequel je suis admiratif :thumbsup:

France? Nice ... we used to pull into Brest and Toulon for port visits! Thanks for the compliments .... I'm jealous of your car with NO RUST, that would make this project go faster fer sure. At least I know that the work is done correctly and there is no more rust on my car ... I don't want to do this again thou!!!!

And welcome to Lateral G ... lot's of good stuff here!


I had to translate it with Google...

"And that's just to make the comparison with his work which I admire"

I can probably speak for many of us and say that we feel the same way about Chiefs work.

Thanks for the translation and the compliment :thumbsup:

[Leadfoot1]

Being that i also happen to speak french....i am very impressed at the precision the program you used to do the translation put out!!!! Usually these programs, for what i had seen so far at least, give you a general idea of the meaning of what your trying to understand/ translate but this is on the dot!!!!!

What was is exactly? Just Google translater?

Lead.

[Sonar Chief]

Hey .... been out of the loop since Xmas Eve, seems my bulging disc decided to upgrade to a herniated disc when I bent over :confused59: Long story short ... spent every day since on drugs and in pain. Had surgery on the 15th to relieve the nerve impingement ..... discetomy and laminectomy took care of the pressure and the pain.

My sister came over for the surgery and stayed and helped with dinners and the dog .... thanks Kari-Ann. My father comes up and checks on me too ... thanks Len.

Gonna be slow going for awhile, the doc said it looked good and should be ok after 6 weeks or so.

[tubbed69]

good luck with your back,that just sucks to hear

[waynieZ]

The most important tool you have is your body. Listen to it and as you know it tells you when to stop doing something. Get well soon.

[Roberts68]

Chief, you're in my thoughts now and then and this is sad news. I'm glad you have had good care and are on the mend. My Father had two radical laminectomies in the lumbar region some years ago so I know that procedure.

Please rest easy and know you have friends here whether you can be at work on your Camaro or not. I wish you all the best and a speedy recovery.


What was is exactly? Just Google translater?
Lead.

Yep. I simply pasted it into Google and that's what it spit back at me. I was merely an interested guy with a keyboard and mouse. I had not seen your feedback, sorry for the delay.

[glassman]

Hey .... been out of the loop since Xmas Eve, seems my bulging disc decided to upgrade to a herniated disc when I bent over :confused59: Long story short ... spent every day since on drugs and in pain. Had surgery on the 15th to relieve the nerve impingement ..... discetomy and laminectomy took care of the pressure and the pain.

My sister came over for the surgery and stayed and helped with dinners and the dog .... thanks Kari-Ann. My father comes up and checks on me too ... thanks Len.

Gonna be slow going for awhile, the doc said it looked good and should be ok after 6 weeks or so.

Can you ask the doc if inversion is ok in your case? i've done it and GREATLY helped my neck and back...

[Steve68]

Get well soon Chief,

Went for a ride yesterday, just putting around with the wife, but, did a couple wheelies and jumped a couple of culverts, was fun,

[makoshark]

Man, sorry to hear this Michael. Push the car in the corner till you get your back healed up.

[Sonar Chief]

good luck with your back,that just sucks to hear

The most important tool you have is your body. Listen to it and as you know it tells you when to stop doing something. Get well soon.

Chief, you're in my thoughts now and then and this is sad news. I'm glad you have had good care and are on the mend. My Father had two radical laminectomies in the lumbar region some years ago so I know that procedure.

Please rest easy and know you have friends here whether you can be at work on your Camaro or not. I wish you all the best and a speedy recovery.



Yep. I simply pasted it into Google and that's what it spit back at me. I was merely an interested guy with a keyboard and mouse. I had not seen your feedback, sorry for the delay.

Can you ask the doc if inversion is ok in your case? i've done it and GREATLY helped my neck and back...

Get well soon Chief,

Went for a ride yesterday, just putting around with the wife, but, did a couple wheelies and jumped a couple of culverts, was fun,

Man, sorry to hear this Michael. Push the car in the corner till you get your back healed up.



THANKS for all the good wishes! I am feeling much better after surgery, NO bending, lifting or twisting for 6 weeks, have appts with PT and DOC real soon .... good thing it's too cold in the garage to work.

I know, I know .... the camaro is on hold, thanks guys!

[coolwelder62]

Get,to feelin better.When I ship your sub frame you'll want to be able to mess with it.:thumbsup: :thumbsup:

[Sonar Chief]

Get,to feelin better.When I ship your sub frame you'll want to be able to mess with it.:thumbsup: :thumbsup:

I'm getting better every day .... as long as I don't do something stupid. You just let me know when it's coming and I'll get some guys together to pick it up for me!

Thanks,

Michael

[Sieg]

I double ruptured the L3-L4 disc Dec. 16th 2001, surgery Jan 8th 2002 at age 43. It hasn't slowed me down much at all, actually I deal with less severe pain now than the 20 years prior to the rupture. Good luck on the recovery and DO NOT push it and do something stupid! That's the hardest part of the recovery process IMO. :D

[Rod P]

I'm getting better every day .... as long as I don't do something stupid. You just let me know when it's coming and I'll get some guys together to pick it up for me!

Thanks,

Michael

take care of your self, I had that dang Flu and it turned to Pneumonia and was bed ridden for 3 days

[waynieZ]

I'm glad to hear things are going OK after the surgery. Take care of yourself and feel better soon.

[MX145]

Hey Michael! Wishing you a speedy and full recovery. I've really enjoyed your build and look forward to more when the time is right.

[Sonar Chief]

I double ruptured the L3-L4 disc Dec. 16th 2001, surgery Jan 8th 2002 at age 43. It hasn't slowed me down much at all, actually I deal with less severe pain now than the 20 years prior to the rupture. Good luck on the recovery and DO NOT push it and do something stupid! That's the hardest part of the recovery process IMO. :D

take care of your self, I had that dang Flu and it turned to Pneumonia and was bed ridden for 3 days

I'm glad to hear things are going OK after the surgery. Take care of yourself and feel better soon.

Hey Michael! Wishing you a speedy and full recovery. I've really enjoyed your build and look forward to more when the time is right.


Thanks guys ... I am being very careful and not pushing it!

I don't think I would be in the garage anyhow ... the mornings have been -16's and just yesterday we hit a high of 1 degree, today I think maybe 11?

That's just too dang cold!

[waynieZ]

Thanks guys ... I am being very careful and not pushing it!

I don't think I would be in the garage anyhow ... the mornings have been -16's and just yesterday we hit a high of 1 degree, today I think maybe 11?

That's just too dang cold!


That's OK the extra rest will help you in the long run.

[Steve68]

Hey Chief, how's the back? just checking in with you, see how your feeling!!!

[Sonar Chief]

That's OK the extra rest will help you in the long run.

Hey Chief, how's the back? just checking in with you, see how your feeling!!!


Thanks for checking in with me ... the back is much better and getting stronger every day.

Should be good to go just about the time the weather warms up the garage!!!!

Thanks

[Sieg]

Good to hear! Commit to maintaining strong abdominals for the rest of your life!

[waynieZ]

Nice to hear from you and glad the back is coming along. Don't get too adventurous too soon!

[Steve68]

Good deal, R&R, make sure everything's right before starting something,

[Sonar Chief]

Good to hear! Commit to maintaining strong abdominals for the rest of your life!

I'm committed ... bought me a balance ball for my birthday :lol:

Nice to hear from you and glad the back is coming along. Don't get too adventurous too soon!


Good deal, R&R, make sure everything's right before starting something,

Thanks guys ... I'm getting stronger every day that I work my back .... went to work on that driver's side quarter panel today! Got her pretty much where I think it lines up best .... need to check the body line from door to quarter before I start welding thou.

Here's where the quarter panel sits now!

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/841/2zku.jpg
Lines up pretty good here in the back!

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/842/2if9.jpg
Looks good from the sides too!

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/841/9vqn.jpg
Welding the window channel is next!

It was good to get out in the garage and get something done on the Camaro .... things should go a little faster now that it's warming up and I'm on the mend.

Thanks for looking ....

[Steve68]

looks good,

[Roberts68]

Great to see you back into it Chief. Work smarter and not harder whenever possible.

[Sonar Chief]

it wasn't Santa thou .... Scott Mock brought my subframe out to CO for the GG Nationals. Cool, this thing is a work of art, need to clean er up and get some epoxy on her and get it mounted so I can put the rest of the sheet metal on and line up the body before I weld on the quarters. :headspin:

315's up front? Gonna try real hard!

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/838/7rvhw.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/na7rvhwj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/845/g98gv.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/nhg98gvj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/845/akzgx.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/nhakzgxj)

Get to get to GG's on Saturday ... I'm borrowing the store's GoPro for some auto X fun, no guarantees about video ... first time!

Thanks Scott ....

Michael

[Roberts68]

Color me jealous. Seriously nice score on the subframe, tremendous purchase decision.

[waynieZ]

That is one beautiful piece !

[Sonar Chief]

Color me jealous. Seriously nice score on the subframe, tremendous purchase decision.


That is one beautiful piece !

Thanks guys ..... Scott drove out here to attend the GG Nationals and brought the sub with him, really appreciate that! I showed him and his buddies my Camaro and I think the car will do justice to his subframe .... thanks Scott!

I got to ride in a 68 Camaro and a 64 GTO today on the autoX course, Kevin told me no screaming like a little girl ... not a peep! Had a blast today, thanks guys!

[RdHuggr68]

Thanks guys ..... Scott drove out here to attend the GG Nationals and brought the sub with him, really appreciate that! I showed him and his buddies my Camaro and I think the car will do justice to his subframe .... thanks Scott!

I got to ride in a 68 Camaro and a 64 GTO today on the autoX course, Kevin told me no screaming like a little girl ... not a peep! Had a blast today, thanks guys!

It was great finally meeting you Mike glad you made it to the show,next year I will ride with you.:whenitsdone:
Kevin

[Sonar Chief]

It was great finally meeting you Mike glad you made it to the show,next year I will ride with you.:whenitsdone:
Kevin

Kevin ... it was good meeting you, I had a blast riding in your Camaro!

When it's done I will give rides too, that's addicting!

Michael

[Sonar Chief]

Been some time between updates, my class just finished and I need to get back on my Camaro ... been so dang hot (upper 90's) I was prepping and cleaning by 0700 and it was 78 when I finished spraying. Of course it takes longer to prep than to spray, and I'm a little slow too, but the frame came out great.

I was thinking about powder coating ... didn't want to risk not matching the satin black on the underside, and if paint is good enough for Mark's cars, it's good enough for me. Just have to pick a durable paint that I don't have to worry about chipping.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/536/50b881.jpg

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/631/69ba28.jpg

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/536/aee0db.jpg

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/661/c9f5f1.jpg

Now I have to modify my chassis frame and fit this sub under and get it bolted together and get the front swing parts on and get going on the quarter. I have two more classes starting on the 29th ... just have to work after hours :headspin:

Thanks for looking ...

[tubbed69]

Boy that subframe looks great,glad to see you making progress:thumbsup:

[Sonar Chief]

Boy that subframe looks great,glad to see you making progress:thumbsup:

Thanks ... I did some sanding and filing and got the sub smooth .... and then sprayed epoxy before it got too hot.

I am making an effort to get out there and get things done ... my back feels great now!

[waynieZ]

Looking great Chief. Scott makes a nice frame.

[HBRod]

Given the amount of work you've done I think your car qualifies as a new '67 Camaro. Incredible patience and perseverance is paying off. Really incredible work, as many more qualified then myself have said. I am wondering if you will use the Lizard Skin for all of your sound deadening? I've heard good thinks about it and they claim it's less expensive then Dynamat. What's your opinion so far?

Anyway, thanks for sharing your fabulous build with us on Lateral-G. And thank you for your service.

Rod

[Sonar Chief]

Looking great Chief. Scott makes a nice frame.

Thanks .... it was a shame to cover with epoxy but it will look even better w satin black paint.

Given the amount of work you've done I think your car qualifies as a new '67 Camaro. Incredible patience and perseverance is paying off. Really incredible work, as many more qualified then myself have said. I am wondering if you will use the Lizard Skin for all of your sound deadening? I've heard good thinks about it and they claim it's less expensive then Dynamat. What's your opinion so far?

Anyway, thanks for sharing your fabulous build with us on Lateral-G. And thank you for your service.



Rod

Rod ... thanks for the compliment, I am trying to do it right the first time and not have second thoughts about this or that .... and I get ideas from those that forged ahead of me on Lat G.

I am planning on coating the inside w Lizard skin and then their ceramic coat on the firewall and then a simple black paint over that. Any mat over the sheet metal will require removal if anything needs repaired/ mod's ... Lizard Skin can be sanded and painted and you can repair a patch if needed w a simple respray. Just those points won me over sticking on that expensive mat.

My service was a blast and thank you for following my little build ... more to come!

[Steve68]

Well aint that pretty!!

[Sonar Chief]

Well aint that pretty!!

Thanks .... wait til it's in black satin with a SB sitting inside!

[Steve68]

hurry up,

I got one from Scott to, nice piece,

[Sonar Chief]

hurry up,

I got one from Scott to, nice piece,

Nice .... let' see some pixs!!!

Well it was a test of patience and leverage but I got the sub under the car. Still need to check alignment a little better and cut my stands down and reweld them to the base .... the mosquitoes were starting to eat me up and I had to come in and call it a nite.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/912/m2gbsB.jpg

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/674/IZ8cDH.jpg


Finally starting to look like a car again .... now to get the swing metal on the front end and get going on that quarter.

Thanks for looking ...

[Spiffav8]

Epic build!

[tubbed69]

This is a great built to follow and learn from on how to do things right.Great work and Great detail:thumbsup: :thumbsup:

[efs69]

Nice progress. Wait til you start getting the suspension on that frame. I didn't want to put it under the car cause it looked great.

[Sonar Chief]

Epic build!


Thanks .... getting there!

This is a great built to follow and learn from on how to do things right.Great work and Great detail:thumbsup: :thumbsup:

Thanks .... I'm also learning from this build. Your car is awesome!!!

Nice progress. Wait til you start getting the suspension on that frame. I didn't want to put it under the car cause it looked great.

That's what I'm afraid of ... but I have to make Scott's sub look :trophy-1302: Thanks!

Got some metal hung today , figured while it was in the 60's and raining I should get something done! I won't be using that radiator support or the header ..... but everything hanging is GM and that helps alot!!!!

Here's some car porn :popcorn2:

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/673/WjBjM0.jpg
Hasn't been together since .... last time:headspin:
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/904/dZNavG.jpg
Another shot!
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/674/UBSL9A.jpg
Man it's good not to see rust here anymore!
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/538/aUc2zi.jpg
Nice and clean!
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/633/yGuSg3.jpg
Still need to get inners hung .... clean!
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/540/EBKBwb.jpg


I have to get some homework done now ... equal hours in the garage on homework!

Thanks for looking ....:popcorn2:

[Spiffav8]

:confused59:

Wow....that makes a huge difference. Heck of an update!

[waynieZ]

Very Nice work Chief. You've come a long way Baby!!

[HBRod]

Nice to see the sheet metal getting fitted. Looks like you were able to get everything to line up well. Looks like the car is going to turn out great. Like you said, do it right the first time and you don't have to redo it later.

Rod

[jydracing]

Boy Michael, I thought that frame looked great the day we delivered it, but since you have worked your magic on it, it really looks "GREAT"sitting in your car....I saw what sheet metal work you had done when we were there, but with the front sheet metal in place,,,your car looks fantastic!!!! Keep up the good work!!!

[Sonar Chief]

:confused59:

Wow....that makes a huge difference. Heck of an update!

Yea it does ... I sat there and looked at lines on my car for quite awhile, and it's only in primer.

Thanks!

[Sonar Chief]

Very Nice work Chief. You've come a long way Baby!!

Thanks Wayne .... still a little bit further!

Nice to see the sheet metal getting fitted. Looks like you were able to get everything to line up well. Looks like the car is going to turn out great. Like you said, do it right the first time and you don't have to redo it later.

Rod

Yeah, with the GM sheetmetal I took off it all lined up pretty good. The doors are another thing with the new skins! Thanks again.

Boy Michael, I thought that frame looked great the day we delivered it, but since you have worked your magic on it, it really looks "GREAT"sitting in your car....I saw what sheet metal work you had done when we were there, but with the front sheet metal in place,,,your car looks fantastic!!!! Keep up the good work!!!

Thanks ... that's quite a compliment. I did see the vette update .... that's a BIG screen tv in there.

[sleepertime]

:thumbsup:

I agree the car is looking great. There is nothing like the feeling of working on it with no rust or grease in sight...

:flag2:

[Sonar Chief]

:thumbsup:

I agree the car is looking great. There is nothing like the feeling of working on it with no rust or grease in sight...

:flag2:

Thanks ... it is nice to see everything clean and ready for paint!

I took the fiber disc to the header panel and drilled out the spot welds and got it down to metal and ready for reassembly and epoxy .... figured I'd saved the rest of the parts why should the header panel be any different?

Thanks for looking ...

[Sonar Chief]

Doing some bonding and saving my header panel! Took it done to metal and sandblasted the braces and used 3M bonding to put it all back together ..... came out nice, now to sand the edges and get it in epoxy!

And the little brown truck came by .... another project to get started on here real quick!

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/537/j7trtB.jpg
Rusted brace ... GRRRRR!
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/539/7Y0atG.jpg
Braces off and ready for stripping!
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/745/iDYcJn.jpg
Bonded, sealed and very strong!
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/743/QxHpyr.jpg
All back together and better than new!
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/537/209ty8.jpg
Next project :confused59:

Thanks for looking .....

[waynieZ]

Nice job Chief, talk about taking it to the limit. Better than new. Those frame connecters will keep you busy for a while.

[Steve68]

Nice .... let' see some pixs!!!

Finally starting to look like a car again .... now to get the swing metal on the front end and get going on that quarter.

Thanks for looking ...

I have nothing, I now live in VA, eastern shore, the car and pics are in my shop in FL, there pic on my conversion thread on LS1 tech, never made one here, not worthy,

[Sonar Chief]

since I had an update. MY school work is taking most of my time lately, but I told myself I needed to get out there and get some stuff done before it gets too cold out.

So I cut out the floor for the sub frame connectors, got the drivers side done and most of the pass side. After I cut up the floor supports and found rust I said that's the last sheet metal that I haven't torn apart .... figured, rust had started everywhere else!!

I'll use some Eastwood frame rust inhibitor all through the support and weld her shut.

Question for those before me: the connector DSE gives you to weld the frame and connectors together ... what's peoples doing for a removable frame setup?? Any templates? Any recommendations for strength?

I can't cut 3/16" and make it look good, suggestions?

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/661/SnEPoW.jpg
Drivers side nice and snug, should be easy weld here!
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/908/ki7Sj7.jpg
Pass side cut out, yeah RUST !
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/540/sXl82F.jpg
What to do about that gap prior to welding????
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/910/FVxXP3.jpg
This is the DSE connector .... like to replace it with a bolt thru on the frame.

Need to tear the front swing metal off and get the frame outa the way and get some epoxy on the floor before I get to far and then weld the connectors in for good.

Thanks for looking .... keep on keepin on!

[Roberts68]

Not that it makes a whole lot of difference right now but are you by chance holding that subframe tab upside down in the last picture?

As usual I will watch and learn Chief, I have these sitting new in box for my '68.
I will admit I have had second thoughts about cutting into her especially with some of the bolt on or less invasive weld on subframe connector offerings.
I bought them because I deemed them to be the best cure for stiffening the chassis and the cleanest underside once completed.
:thumbsup:

[Sonar Chief]

Not that it makes a whole lot of difference right now but are you by chance holding that subframe tab upside down in the last picture?

As usual I will watch and learn Chief, I have these sitting new in box for my '68.
I will admit I have had second thoughts about cutting into her especially with some of the bolt on or less invasive weld on subframe connector offerings.
I bought them because I deemed them to be the best cure for stiffening the chassis and the cleanest underside once completed.
:thumbsup:

Yeah I'm probably holding it upside down .... the point is the bracket was made to weld the two together, not too keen on that!

Think I'll head over to the metal dist. and see if I can find some square stock and match the connectors od with its id and make something longer to mate them up.

[Roberts68]

Yeah I'm probably holding it upside down .... the point is the bracket was made to weld the two together, not too keen on that!

Think I'll head over to the metal dist. and see if I can find some square stock and match the connectors od with its id and make something longer to mate them up.

Looking forward to see what you come up with. It may be interesting to hear from DSE on how others have addressed it as well.

I intend to make the subframe bolt into the subframe connector as well, but I am okay with adding a tab of material to one or the other. I guess that's what I thought these supplied pieces were drilled for.

[Build-It-Break-it]

Hey Sonar Chief, I had the same little dilemma. After searching I saw how chassis works attaches there subframe to there subframe connectors.

They have a piece of square tubing in each side of the subframe that slides into the subframe connector then has bolts that go through to attach everything. This makes it removable. Just make sure you put crush sleeves so when you bolt everything up they don't crush in on each other.

I like there design the best, everything is removable and secure. Hope this helps. Just look on there website.

[Sonar Chief]

Hey Sonar Chief, I had the same little dilemma. After searching I saw how chassis works attaches there subframe to there subframe connectors.

They have a piece of square tubing in each side of the subframe that slides into the subframe connector then has bolts that go through to attach everything. This makes it removable. Just make sure you put crush sleeves so when you bolt everything up they don't crush in on each other.

I like there design the best, everything is removable and secure. Hope this helps. Just look on there website.

I just visited their site and hear what you are stepping in ... I went to the metal distributor place and they looked at me oddly, seems rectangular tubing is something they don't carry. What??

I like the male/ female idea .... keep thinking folks!

[waynieZ]

My tabs are going to be welded to the front subframe and bolted through the frame connector

http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w11/Hardcore454/sub%20frame/000_0967.jpg


http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w11/Hardcore454/sub%20frame/000_0968.jpg

[Sonar Chief]

My tabs are going to be welded to the front subframe and bolted through the frame connector

http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w11/Hardcore454/sub%20frame/000_0967.jpg


http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w11/Hardcore454/sub%20frame/000_0968.jpg

Wayne ... thanks for the pixs! So you drilled new holes where DSE said to puddle weld thru their holes?

You think that the difference in the gauges (14ga bracket) and the stock frame (butt welded) will be strong enough? Any input is good .... cuz I don't want to redo this part. Getting in and out from under my cart is hard enough ... should have made the cart much taller :headspin:

Thanks Wayne!

[Roberts68]

I would mimic that. There will be little to no flex in the box tubing of the frame connector right there once the end cap is welded on.
A guy could put a piece of tube in flush as an anti crush sleeve, if that's warranted.

[SlowProgress]

I agree with Wayne and Robert. I clamped the tabs as straight as possible and drilled to match the holes. This works best if the connectors aren't already welded in because I drilled in from each side, rather than all the way through. I used two crush sleeves per side assuming the end cap would stiffen the hole closest to the end. I just drilled a small hole and plug welded the sleeve to hold it in place. Here's a couple of photos. Once the tabs are tacked to the subframe then take the bolts out and the tabs stay with the frame to be welded later, or immediately as you like.

Scott

http://i.imgur.com/eqfOiFkl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/rPC9noQl.jpg

[waynieZ]

On mine if needed I'll put a plate behind the tab and have it welded to the sub frame and tab.

[Evan Iroc-Z]

I am not a 1st gen expert, but aren't you afraid of the bolt holes stretching with bolt-on SFCs? I have a 3rd gen and that is why most will not go with the bolt-on version, due to holes stretching.

Most of these cars are being, almost, purpose built for racing of some sort and that will put a very large load on the SFC.

Again, not an expert, just thought I would ask.

[waynieZ]

On my car it will be mostly a street car but when I had Mike build the car he suggested putting convertible rockers in which have a third piece of metal running inside the inner and outer rocker. When I got it home I had a friend help me put it on jack stands and one didn't get put to the same level as the other three. We lowered the car and when I went around and checked them one wasn't touching and the car did not flex it stayed above the last jack stand, and that's without the frame connectors welded and bolted to the sub frame.

[Sonar Chief]

On my car it will be mostly a street car but when I had Mike build the car he suggested putting convertible rockers in which have a third piece of metal running inside the inner and outer rocker. When I got it home I had a friend help me put it on jack stands and one didn't get put to the same level as the other three. We lowered the car and when I went around and checked them one wasn't touching and the car did not flex it stayed above the last jack stand, and that's without the frame connectors welded and bolted to the sub frame.

I never heard of putting convertible rockers in a coupe .... makes sense thou. What about welding in that floor piece that are only on coupes? Think I saw it on one of Cris's bulds, that may be feasible ....

Thanks for the inputs ....

[Sonar Chief]

I am not a 1st gen expert, but aren't you afraid of the bolt holes stretching with bolt-on SFCs? I have a 3rd gen and that is why most will not go with the bolt-on version, due to holes stretching.

Most of these cars are being, almost, purpose built for racing of some sort and that will put a very large load on the SFC.

Again, not an expert, just thought I would ask.

I would have to have an engineer answer that .... any takers?

Thanks for chiming in ...

[Sonar Chief]

I agree with Wayne and Robert. I clamped the tabs as straight as possible and drilled to match the holes. This works best if the connectors aren't already welded in because I drilled in from each side, rather than all the way through. I used two crush sleeves per side assuming the end cap would stiffen the hole closest to the end. I just drilled a small hole and plug welded the sleeve to hold it in place. Here's a couple of photos. Once the tabs are tacked to the subframe then take the bolts out and the tabs stay with the frame to be welded later, or immediately as you like.

Scott

http://i.imgur.com/eqfOiFkl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/rPC9noQl.jpg

Thanks Scott for the pixs .... looks sturdy enough. I like Wanye's car have the connector further away from the frames and could not utilize all three holes ... may have to have a pattern laser cut that is longer.

Thanks for the pixs, looks good, have you had time to test the connectors?

[SlowProgress]

I am not a 1st gen expert, but aren't you afraid of the bolt holes stretching with bolt-on SFCs? I have a 3rd gen and that is why most will not go with the bolt-on version, due to holes stretching ......
Thanks Scott for the pixs .... looks sturdy enough. I like Wanye's car have the connector further away from the frames and could not utilize all three holes ... may have to have a pattern laser cut that is longer.
Thanks for the pixs, looks good, have you had time to test the connectors?
I originally had bolt in connectors that sandwiched under the body mounts and front spring perches. Even those were pretty stiff. I could jack up one side of the car and the other would lift (but not perfectly straight). I think DSE intended these to weld in both the front and back but welding the back and along the floor will really improve the stiffness over my old bolt in connectors, not to mention how they don't hang down so far. I have not jacked the car up on one corner yet because my tabs are only tacked in place.
Answering Evan’s question about bolt strength I really am not a fastener expert but if you look online one 5/16 grade 5 bolt can hold roughly 5,000lbs in single shear. The connectors are mounted in double shear so assume around 10,000 lbs per bolt more-or-less. I know that is rough but the order magnitude tells me those three bolts are good for up around 30,000 lbs load. I purposely drilled the holes tight so they won’t loosen. I didn't want to make it perfect just better than before and allow the subframe to be removable so I can upgrade in the future. That’s about all the thought I put into it.

BTW one of the structural engineers at work reads these posts so if my estimate is all wrong he will probably say something :-)

[Sonar Chief]

and I'm working on the Camaro ....YEAH! Yep this session of school is over and I have 10 days to work on the car w/o homework. Then another session starts on the 16th!

Figured I'd get out there and burn some metal ... fit up the end caps for the connectors and welded them in place, always helps when I use the spectacles! A little salad dressing and they are good to go.

I still have to pull the sub out tonight and get ready to epoxy the floor pans before I permanently weld in the connectors, and I have to weld on the tabs to connect to the sub ... but one thing at a time. Weather is good so epoxy comes first and welding later this week.

Here is some porn to look at .....
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/661/480uwA.jpg

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/540/B10AC2.jpg

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/912/qLOAwD.jpg

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/661/46cjk2.jpg

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/540/juO56u.jpg

Thanks for looking, more to come .....

[SlowProgress]

Good stuff. Man 10 whole days to work on the car. It should be finished by then !

[Sonar Chief]

Good stuff. Man 10 whole days to work on the car. It should be finished by then !

Thanks .... I should get a lot done in 10 days, we'll see how things go, tomorrow is epoxy and then weld those connectors in place.

[Sonar Chief]

What I would have given for a rotisserie today ... yes a reproduction organ would have been on the list! Anyway, got the header panel, inner supports and the floor in epoxy. PITA :wacko:

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/673/SRg0wu.jpg

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/538/eeEcts.jpg

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/911/lbwdH8.jpg

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/673/OqNpk2.jpg

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/633/nHiqex.jpg

Working on the sub connectors tomorrow, we'll see how that goes, have to put the sub in again and line everything back up. Its always somethin'.

Thanks for looking ....

[Roberts68]

Dang, that underside shot of the tunnel makes me envious of all the hard work you have done.

[Spiffav8]

Dang, that underside shot of the tunnel makes me envious of all the hard work you have done.

Truth!!

[SlowProgress]

Yes it looks good. I always think of primer as a sort of dull version of paint. It cleans everything up and makes the hard work really show !

[waynieZ]

Looking really good Chief. Glad to hear you have some time on the car. I'm looking forward to more updates. :thumbsup:

[Sonar Chief]

Dang, that underside shot of the tunnel makes me envious of all the hard work you have done.

That was hard work ... wished I had a rotisserie thou, should have seen it, spraying with one hand and holding a drop light with the other hand. It worked thou.

Truth!!

Thanks!

Yes it looks good. I always think of primer as a sort of dull version of paint. It cleans everything up and makes the hard work really show !

It does look good in primer ... lets you know if things look like *ss! Thanks.

Looking really good Chief. Glad to hear you have some time on the car. I'm looking forward to more updates. :thumbsup:

Thanks Wayne, there's more coming, working on a little _____, borrowing an idea from Mr. Stielow!

How is your health? Hope all is well and you have some Camaro time!

[waynieZ]

Doing pretty good. Getting ready to try to put in some time on the car soon.

[Sonar Chief]

Doing pretty good. Getting ready to try to put in some time on the car soon.

Wayne ... that's good to hear! I have a lot of catching up to do after the back surgery, I did lose 24lbs since Labor Day, I haven't weighed 186 since ........last time, lol!

Let's see some car pixs soon, OK?

Michael

[Intimidator3]

As always, great posts. Your entire thread inspired me to get me where my car is today. The incredible amount of detailed work you have done is mind blowing.

[Sonar Chief]

As always, great posts. Your entire thread inspired me to get me where my car is today. The incredible amount of detailed work you have done is mind blowing.

Thank you for the compliment .... I get a lot of inspiration from the other builds also, that's what makes this forum so GREAT! Can you imagine doing this 20 years ago w/o sharing pixs and insights?



Speaking of inspiration .... Stielow is #1 and I borrowed this off his cars, JACKING POINTS! This one needs a little finish work and three more to go ..... take a look!

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/912/Z5w5L1.jpg
Almost ready to go .... three more to weld up!


Thanks for looking ....get out in the garage, I had to use the heater today, OMG!

[SlowProgress]

Yep that's a great idea. I have all the parts bought already just not welded in yet. Make sure to post plenty of photos and also how you mod your floor stands. Good stuff !

[Sonar Chief]

Yep that's a great idea. I have all the parts bought already just not welded in yet. Make sure to post plenty of photos and also how you mod your floor stands. Good stuff !

Thanks ... Mark has used it on quite a few Camaros, thought I'd borrow the idea!

with the heat of the welder! I told myself I was gonna stay out in the garage until I finished the jacking points .... I finished, and made a big mess along the way. The welder kept me warm thou!

That's the cap I used, the guy at the metal place said it was for schedule 40 pipe caps, seems to work for my purpose too!

Some pixs to look at:

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/905/GLz8Gt.jpg

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/633/yaQRze.jpg

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/905/FeKV8S.jpg

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/537/85OaBK.jpg


Thanks for looking ... I need to get this back under the car tomorrow and get the template for the connectors and start welding them into the car, wish me luck!

[SlowProgress]

Funny you are using your welder to stay warm and in my part of country it just got cool enough to enjoy the garage. I like how that looks, even simpler than I imagined and the same caps I bought as well. I was even thinking of putting one in the center of the subframe up front so I could jack up the whole front end at one time. That area on the stock frame is already dented from jacking over the years and needs to be beefed-up anyway. Keep going !

[Sonar Chief]

are ready to weld in! I had the local Metal Dist. cut out some brackets outa 0.125" and got them mocked in tonight, still need to trim the inside cuz the tranny crossmember is right there. I am going into my old work place and borrow their welder to get these attached to the connectors, needed some heat for .125".

Anyway, not very artistic plates .... but practical. Then I'll weld tubes in the frame to stiffen up the bolt holes.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/904/XieCtP.jpg

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/913/NWTzsY.jpg

I need to adjust the floor opening to allow the connector to mate to the frame in the same plane .... they are off about a 1/8" to line up, then I can weld em in finally!

Oh, I have that brown truck coming hopefully Wednesday, bringing my ....... :rolleyes:

Thanks for looking ....

[Build-It-Break-it]

Looking good Sonar. I heard you need to have the full weight of the car on the suspension with motor, seats etc. before completely welding the subframe connectors in or trying to align the holes to bolt them up. You might want to look into that. I'd hate for you to do all that work and have to redo it.

[HBRod]

This project keeps getting better. Nice adaptation of Mark's jacking idea. By the time you finish I think that we'll be looking at your cars for ideas to adapt to our own.

Keep warm.

Rod in HB

[Sonar Chief]

Looking good Sonar. I heard you need to have the full weight of the car on the suspension with motor, seats etc. before completely welding the subframe connectors in or trying to align the holes to bolt them up. You might want to look into that. I'd hate for you to do all that work and have to redo it.


I just called and talked to DSE and they recommend to wait til I have the suspension and rear end in and measure the wheelbase before I weld them in .... didn't say anything about the build weight. Just said make sure its square :rolleyes: .


This project keeps getting better. Nice adaptation of Mark's jacking idea. By the time you finish I think that we'll be looking at your cars for ideas to adapt to our own.

Keep warm.

Rod in HB

Thanks for the compliment ... I'm still plugging away, only want to do this once, the right way!!!

[Roberts68]

I heard you need to have the full weight of the car on the suspension with motor, seats etc. before completely welding the subframe connectors in or trying to align the holes to bolt them up. You might want to look into that. I'd hate for you to do all that work and have to redo it.

It would seem difficult to weld the top of the seat mounting plate back in after re-installing the seats...? I do not see that in the instructions linked below.

http://www.detroitspeed.com/images/instructions/67-69%20F-Body%20Subframe%20Connectors.pdf

An important tidbit pasted from the instructions... "If you have any questions, please call Detroit Speed at (704) 662-3272."

[Build-It-Break-it]

It would seem difficult to weld the top of the seat mounting plate back in after re-installing the seats...? I do not see that in the instructions linked below.

http://www.detroitspeed.com/images/instructions/67-69%20F-Body%20Subframe%20Connectors.pdf

An important tidbit pasted from the instructions... "If you have any questions, please call Detroit Speed at (704) 662-3272."

The weight in general needs to be settled on the suspension before welding the plates from the subframe to the subframe connectors. I'm not sure which seat plate your referring to but only a small square of the seat mount needs to be removed to install the subframe connectors.

[Sonar Chief]

fer sure, got the brackets welded onto the connectors and figured since I had to wait until I get the C5 knuckles and the Ride Tech 4 bar on the 12 bolt I'd get the 'ol 12 bolt out and take a look at what I bought 3 years ago!

This 12 bolt has all the goodies already done, (c-clip eliminators, welded tubes, posi, 1/2 wheel studs, summit cover, and all brand new!) professionally rebuilt and never had gear oil in it ... I couldn't remember since I covered it with plastic and put it in the corner. I need to get the perches off and prep for the airbar install.

Some car porn for ya'll .....

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/673/OSWvD4.jpg

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/661/A1HAax.jpg

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/912/AWugvZ.jpg

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/746/NQfUQd.jpg

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/673/EZ6dOZ.jpg

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/538/48SMFx.jpg


I'm pretty stoked about this purchase, its almost ready to put under the car ... waiting on parts. I thought I had a lot of upgrades to do to get this ready to thrash on, guess not!

I'll get the perches off and start on something else, oh yeah I got motor parts coming from Jegs, that'll keep me busy too!

Thanks for lookin ....

[waynieZ]

Its nice when you go back to something you bought and its better than you remember!

[Roberts68]

What brakes do you have there Chief?

Whats the gear ratio?

Nice piece for sure. I was debating having my tubes welded to the center while mine is out.

[Sonar Chief]

Its nice when you go back to something you bought and its better than you remember!


Its much like Christmas in October!!!


What brakes do you have there Chief?

Whats the gear ratio?

Nice piece for sure. I was debating having my tubes welded to the center while mine is out.


It came with Wilwood 12.19 4 pistons, should be good for what I need, I remember calling Wilwood with numbers and they told me which kit it was .... don't recall right now thou.

The gear ratio is 3.55 .... just perfect for a driver!

[Roberts68]

Awesome, I would be happy as heck with those brakes. That's the same ratio as the 12 I picked up this summer which I had wished was still 3.73 like when it was new... But I bought it anyway.

The previous owner changed it to 3.55 and had it all gone through and freshened up, but the brakes came off and went in the scrap box the other night.

[Sonar Chief]

Awesome, I would be happy as heck with those brakes. That's the same ratio as the 12 I picked up this summer which I had wished was still 3.73 like when it was new... But I bought it anyway.

The previous owner changed it to 3.55 and had it all gone through and freshened up, but the brakes came off and went in the scrap box the other night.

Are you gonna change out the gears? I figure I'll see how these go for a starter ... there is always something to change in the future, that's hot rodding!!!


the brown truck, it was the white one! Either way I got my C5 suspension parts, they look really good - piston bores are shiny, bushings look good, and they saved all the ball joints!!!

So .... other than a scotch brite and some wd40 what is the best way to get all this cleaned up? I know someone has done this before me .... suggestions? I'll start with the pad and see how far I get.

More car porn ....
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/909/8qE2DC.jpg

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/912/zd3TG1.jpg

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/908/Fk8OkE.jpg


Man this stuff is light, and those 12 7/8 rotors are cool .... well have to go out and start cleaning and source some bolts to get this on the sub.

Thanks for lookin .... I already sourced new GM hubs for this setup, just have to drive down to ColoSprngs next week and get them.

[waynieZ]

Sweet !

[Roberts68]

Are you gonna change out the gears? I figure I'll see how these go for a starter ... there is always something to change in the future, that's hot rodding!!

If my wishes were fishes and my net was full there would be 3.73, 33 spline axles & true trac, with upgraded bearing ends... In all reality your Rear brakes are my pinnacle. I have 6p up front.

But yeah, I will likely run the 3.55 posi and probably transfer my drums off the 10 bolt until I nab some rear disc brakes with a parking brake... Which may be sooner than later with any luck at all.

Sweet score on the c5 parts, consider brown scotchbrites for heavy deposits, maroon is the first I would try, grey is a waste of time in my opinion. I got some dark grey from the local weld supply but they are messy and coarse as heck.

Wear some gloves or you will have 80 grit finger tips by the time you are done.

[Sonar Chief]

If my wishes were fishes and my net was full there would be 3.73, 33 spline axles & true trac, with upgraded bearing ends... In all reality your Rear brakes are my pinnacle. I have 6p up front.

But yeah, I will likely run the 3.55 posi and probably transfer my drums off the 10 bolt until I nab some rear disc brakes with a parking brake... Which may be sooner than later with any luck at all.

Sweet score on the c5 parts, consider brown scotchbrites for heavy deposits, maroon is the first I would try, grey is a waste of time in my opinion. I got some dark grey from the local weld supply but they are messy and coarse as heck.

Wear some gloves or you will have 80 grit finger tips by the time you are done.


I started on the arms with maroon and WD40, seemed to get most of the grime off. The lowers are worst with grease and smuck all over them .....:disgusted:


What have I been doing? Cleaned up the upper and lower C5 arms, ordered all the Grade 8 hardware I need to bolt up the C5 on Mock's frame, replaced front disc pads on the GMC truck, replaced the clutch out on the XR650R ( friction discs were at the service limit), and started working on the SBC .... JEGS delivered yesterday. No sense wasting time, can't do anything til the Grade 8 hardware gets here .... work on the SBC!!!

Torqued the heads and PTV clearance (check), pushrod length (check), ...... where the heck is the rest of my ARP polylocks? Don't know, they just vanished, end of the night!!!

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/674/nezw3d.jpg
New friction and discs for the ol bike!
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/674/pAGQlx.jpg
The SBC getting some work prior to installing!
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/903/8sRxKU.jpg
Comp Cams 1.52 rockers set on #1.
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/537/CgeixV.jpg
Pretty good markings for push rod length 7.80
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/538/oLLE8w.jpg
Piston to valve clearance .... plenty!
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/904/1KDDqs.jpg
Can't wait to fire up these AFR's .... sweet!


I'll get back on the engine tomorrow, as soon as I find the dang polylocks ... or buy a new set, GRRRRRR.

Thanks for looking .....

[waynieZ]

The motors looking good.

[Sonar Chief]

The motors looking good.

Thanks Wayne ... been some time since I worked on the engine ... felt good to wrench.



Tore up the garage looking for the dang ARP polylocks ... Hello Jegs?

Did get something done today .... welded up the cuts I made in the DSE wheel house. Time consuming welding, hammer and dolly, repeat!

Waiting on parts to finish the engine, Ride Tech airbar, and grade 8 bolts .... I'll finish dressing the wheel house tomorrow and then prep the 12 bolt for the 4 link and paint.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/661/KSIdBy.jpg


Thanks for looking ....

[Sonar Chief]

Making progress on the inner, got the relief cuts welded and made the closeout piece for the driver's side inner, also smoothed out the sway bar ends and steering arms from where they were bent .... don't want stress fractures.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/905/SZ0xu1.jpg
Setting up the patch!

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/673/FO7Ue9.jpg
All smoothed out and ready for paint.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/538/qb041X.jpg
Inner tub all ready to weld in .... my plasma cutter got outa hand on the outer :RunninDog:

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/673/BHy13B.jpg
That is why I reformed the edge to fit my car .... nice tight gaps!!!

Well, tomorrow is another day, thanks for looking ....

[Sonar Chief]

mounted on drivers side! Got the used parts cleaned up so they are respectable to mount on the Camaro ... drivers side mounted and looking so good, I'm pleased!!!!

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/540/gVxrwD.jpg

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/674/Ej5RPe.jpg

I have replacement hubs already lined up, just have to road trip to get them. My Ride Tech air bar should be here Thursday ... yeah!

Thanks for looking ...

[Intimidator3]

mounted on drivers side! Got the used parts cleaned up so they are respectable to mount on the Camaro ... drivers side mounted and looking so good, I'm pleased!!!!

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/540/gVxrwD.jpg

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/674/Ej5RPe.jpg

I have replacement hubs already lined up, just have to road trip to get them. My Ride Tech air bar should be here Thursday ... yeah!

Thanks for looking ...

Lookin' good! Those cleaned up nicely!

[Sonar Chief]

Yeah, a little elbow grease and some WD40 they came out pretty good, the new hubs will make nice too, figure I'll dress them a little nicer when time comes to paint them for final install.

Got the sway bar ends on today and finished buttoning up the heads on the motor .... work on the intake tomorrow and do some sandblasting of the front leaf perches.

Always somethin' to do ... thanks for lookin'

[SlowProgress]

That is just a great looking setup. The tubular arms are great too but I am partial to the factory cast items for some reason.

[waynieZ]

They look sweet on there.

[Sonar Chief]

cart, no more training wheels!!!! Got the car off the cart today ... good feeling of progress, however slow its progress.

That is just a great looking setup. The tubular arms are great too but I am partial to the factory cast items for some reason.

I am pleased with the components, I think a simple clear coat and she'll be looking good.

They look sweet on there.

Thanks, I think so too!!!

Also got out the original valve covers and cleaned them up, made mounts for the original shocks, unpacked the Ride Tech box ... just like Christmas!!! I'll finish the engine tomorrow and lift the car back onto stands and drop the engine into the frame. I had to order longer u bolts for the multi leaf setup on the 12 bolt, they'll be here on Monday.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/537/ImCqIh.jpg

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/901/3WhW1i.jpg

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/911/QXGrzB.jpg

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/674/LBpFSp.jpg

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/540/bj234A.jpg

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/661/bLXAEu.jpg



So I'll work on the air bar fitment and get that all lined up w the 12 bolt, spray some epoxy, and keep plugging on .....

Thanks for looking ...

[waynieZ]

Sounds like a plan!

[Sonar Chief]

frame in ... PITA by yourself! Especially when my car was one of the variants that didn't line up with the holes just right.... I wrestled it into place. Epoxied the leaf mounts, bolted the shock mounts and got the bars ready for test fitting, and spent another 3 hours cleaning up the trunk pan (my arms are tired now) and rails for some epoxy tomorrow ... supposed to be 80 degrees.


http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/540/PzhwmX.jpg

Wanted to get the holes drilled out on the frame but I didn't have a driver for the drill to get the bolts in ... I'll get that in the morning and then prep for painting.

Not much progress ... it's clean thou!!!

Thanks for looking ...