Panel Adhesive

[aussiebj]

I was wondering if anyone uses panel glue to hold on quater panels i was told by a friend that it is better than welding the panel on...If so was is the name of the adhesive to use or a web site to go to to find out any info,i would like to try it i am alwys up for new stuff..thanks Barry

[GM Muscle]

Panel bond by 3M.. its good stuff.. but i would never say its better than a weld.. just my 2 cents..

[caper150]

I had a friend that when we did his truck we used the 3M stuff for the box sides and when he was t-boned 2 months later fright where we did the work it never let go.I couldn't believe it until I saw it.

[68protouring454]

don't use i for a visable seam like you are doing for your 80% 1/4 it will ghost line,
i use it alot for wheel houses, tailpanels, rear window fillers etc, works great for certain things

[Steve1968LS2]

The stuff made by FUSOR is crazy strong. I've seen where they have bonded two pieces of metal then pulled on them. The metal gave way before the bond broke.

I don't know about on a quarter panel though. Worked great for bonding my new firewall to the old one

[68protouring454]

i use fusor also, strength is not an issue for sure, i have glued bedsides, roofs etc with it, however i would never do a patch panel or visable seam that will be bodyworked over

[brianjw4]

I have also been thinking about using panel adhesive. I am doing a full quarter and tail panel on my 69 camaro, the only place that might be questionable is the sail panel seam, or would it be ok? Seems like everywhere else would be fine.

[race-rodz]

i have used a lot of 3M & Fusor products on everything from fiberglass&carbon fiber bonded to steel, and steel to steel. the only time i have ever done body work over it was on a set of raised sheetmetal flames, which is a place where you would never notice any "ghost seam" anyway.

i personally would never use it in any part of a panel where the seam is suposed to be invisible..... period.

also while on the ghost seam subject, i am also no a fan of "panel flanges" where a lap weld is created. the extra thickness and strength from the flange will cause the panel to expand and contract differently than if it is one even thickness.

on an 80% qtr, i will usually butt weld the 2 panels together about 1/4" down from the bodyline, then i tig weld the whole seam with .035 er70s rod....about 1/2" at a time.....finishing grinding it with 36gt on a 3" angle grinder. it takes forever and sux to do, but it is about the only way of doin it where the seam is 100% invisble even with temp change induced expansion/contraction.

i have also heard of using lead over a lap weld seam, it will also hide it, i havent ever tryed it...so i have no opinion on how well that method works.

[comp-spec]

[QUOTE=comp-spec]on an 80% qtr, i will usually butt weld the 2 panels together about 1/4" down from the bodyline, then i tig weld the whole seam with .035 er70s rod....about 1/2" at a time.....finishing grinding it with 36gt on a 3" angle grinder. it takes forever and sux to do, but it is about the only way of doin it where the seam is 100% invisble even with temp change induced expansion/contraction.
[QUOTE]

Thats the way u do it

But why would u do that when a full qtr is available Its a much better job and less work then the 80% qrt. The difference in bodywork out ways the cost difference of a full qrt

[race-rodz]

current project is a 66 goat, i did order full qtrs, but i really only needed the lower 2/3's for the repairs, the car has amazing decklid fit, so i decided it was a better way to go to just replace the lower section.

i have done several early mustangs, the repro "full" qtrs usually dont fit well around the qtr window/c-pillar/filler panel/decklid jam. granted the early mustangs fit was "crap" from factory, the aftermarket parts are a lot worse...needing alot more time to make them fit presentable. turning a "full" qtr into a 80% style skin usually saves a bunch of headaches....but adds a bunch of labor.