One of these days I will be ready to fire up my Texas Speed LS3 for the first time. I'm finishing up wiring, plumbing is done, and I will have to add fluids. What is involved with firing up an LS for the first time? I was thinking about making a pre-luber to run some oil through the system since the motor has been setting for about 2 years. Any thoughts?
Start-up and Break-in Procedures
Safety first, if the vehicle is on the ground, be sure the park brake is set, the wheels are chocked and the car cannot fall into gear.
Verify everything is installed properly and nothing was missed.
1. This engine assembly needs to be filled with oil. After installing the engine, ensure the crankcase has been filled with the appropriate
motor oil to the recommended oil fill level on the dipstick. These crate engines require a special oil meeting GM Standard
GM4718M (this will be specified on the oil label). Mobil 1 is one such recommended oil. Other oils meeting this standard may
be identified as synthetic. However, not all synthetic oils will meet this GM standard. Look for and use only an oil that meets GM
Standard GM4718M. Also check and fill as required any other necessary fluids such as coolant, power steering fluid, etc.
2. The engine should be primed with oil before starting. Install an oil pressure gauge (the existing oil pressure sensor location at the
upper rear of the engine may be used) and disconnect the engine control system (removing power from the engine control module
is generally recommended, but check your engine control system information for additional details). Note: Disconnecting only ignition
or fuel injector connectors is not recommended – make sure the control system will not provide ignition or fuel to the engine.
Removal of the spark plugs will allow the engine to spin faster and build oil pressure faster.
3. Once the engine control system has been disconnected, crank the engine using the starter for 10 seconds and check for oil pressure.
If no pressure is indicated, wait 30 seconds and crank again for 10 seconds.
4. Repeat this process until oil pressure is indicated on the gauge.
5. Reconnect the engine control system. Start the engine and listen for any unusual noises. If no unusual noises are noted, run the
engine at approximately 1000 RPM until normal operating temperature is reached.
6. When possible, you should always allow the engine to warm up prior to driving. It is a good practice to allow the oil sump and water
temperature to reach 180°F before towing heavy loads or performing hard acceleration runs.
7. The engine should be driven at varying loads and conditions for the first 30 miles or one hour without wide open throttle (WOT) or
sustained high RPM accelerations.
8. Run five or six medium throttle (50%) accelerations to about 4000 RPM and back to idle (0% throttle) in gear.
9. Run two or three hard throttle (WOT 100%) accelerations to about 4000 RPM and back to idle (0% throttle) in gear.
10. Change the oil and filter. Replace the oil per the specification in step 1, and replace the filter with a new PF48 AC Delco oil filter.
Inspect the oil and the oil filter for any foreign particles to ensure that the engine is functioning properly.
11. Drive the next 500 miles (12 to 15 engine hours) under normal conditions. Do not run the engine at its maximum rated engine
speed. Also, do not expose the engine to extended periods of high load.
12. Change the oil and filter. Again, inspect the oil and oil filter for any foreign particles to ensure that the engine is functioning properly
I am also getting to that point of firing my Texas Spped ls3 for the first time in the next couple of weeks. Started doing some research on the same topic. I am really concerned about priming the engine before turning over.
Disconnect ECM. Crank until pressure comes up on gauge. Connect ECM. Cycle key to bring fuel pressure up. Purge air from fuel rails. Hit the key and start the engine. Check for leaks.
I have an Accusump in the car, but I'm not sure it could be pre-charged to allow one to pre-lube an engine that hasn't subjected the accusump to engine oil pressure. There are several guys on you tube that have made pre-lubers out of PCV, etc and access the motors oil system via the plug at the drivers front corner of the block. I'm contemplating getting a 5 gallon air tank from Harbor Freight and making a pressurized oiler out of it. I think it could be done for less than $50 and would be less hassel than making one out of PCV. http://www.harborfreight.com/air-too...ank-65594.html
We might be, but you can't be too careful can you? I would rather spend $50-75 now and avoid problems with a $13K engine later. I know the engine was assembled with lube by a professional, but it has been sitting for almost 2 years while I got the rest of the car figured out. I pulled the pan to install a baffle and there was lube in it that had dripped out of its original location. I might call Texas Speed and see what they think too. Thanks for your advice!
We might be, but you can't be too careful can you? I would rather spend $50-75 now and avoid problems with a $13K engine later. I know the engine was assembled with lube by a professional, but it has been sitting for almost 2 years while I got the rest of the car figured out. I pulled the pan to install a baffle and there was lube in it that had dripped out of its original location. I might call Texas Speed and see what they think too. Thanks for your advice!
I use this Valvetrain Spary Lube as well on the engines I build. Great stuff. I would pull the rocker covers and spray the valve train. Rotate the engine 180* and spray again.
Why does everybody ignore the GM Performance recommended procedure?
I have done a built LS7, 2 LS3 GM crates, an LS2, an LS1 swaps.
Pulled the fuse to the ecm. Cranked until pressure on the gauge and fired the motors.
Just saying imho you guys are overthinking this.
Apparently you've never had a problem getting one to prime. It does happen and raising the rear of the car will get it to prime very quickly instead of cranking for extended periods.
Brian Hobaugh SCCA National Tour June 2014
First Hemi 'Cuda Convertible Ever Built
Short clips: Goodguys Pleasanton autocross and pit videos
LS3 first time start up
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