Clutch Master Cylinder

[DKz Garage]

Alright, I'm sure this has been discussed/debated before.... I'm getting down to finishing my 69 Camaro build. LS 408, T56 Magnum, LS7 clutch setup. I have installed the DSE firewall plate for the hydraulic clutch. At this point, I have installed a GM clutch master cylinder from a 2002 Camaro with the drill mod. As with all things/choices, I've begun to second guess myself. So many guys I talk to say that the GM will not perform well at WOT and speed shifting...in fact, some guys say that getting into 1st / reverse is an issue. At this point in the build I would rather spend some more $$ and get it right that be disappointed later. Does the GM master with a 3/4" bore get the job done...or do I upgrade to the Tick performance/Tilton set-up. Does the 7/8" bore really make that much of a difference. Your thoughts - opinions????

[Vega$69]

I have Mcleod, my son has Tick

The stock GMs work on thousands of cars and I would not expect it would be an issue.

[Chad-1stGen]

I had an issue with my stock GM hydraulics but I know others running the same clutch with the same power levels that don't have any problems.

I would try it and just make sure you have zero air in the system!

If it doesn't work I don't recommend getting the Tick m/c. I made that mistake. It requires different bolt sizes and stud setup than the DSE bracket. Also, the adjustable pushrod may be the wrong size for what you need.

You can get the proper mounting block from DSE to mount the Tilton m/c so I recommend you go that route if you decide the GM setup doesn't work. In case you were not aware the only thing tick makes is the mounting block and they use the tilton m/c.

Oh and FYI the tilton m/c fixed my high rpm shift issues that were present with my stock m/c.

[DKz Garage]

Originally Posted by Chad-1stGen

I had an issue with my stock GM hydraulics but I know others running the same clutch with the same power levels that don't have any problems.

I would try it and just make sure you have zero air in the system!

If it doesn't work I don't recommend getting the Tick m/c. I made that mistake. It requires different bolt sizes and stud setup than the DSE bracket. Also, the adjustable pushrod may be the wrong size for what you need.

You can get the proper mounting block from DSE to mount the Tilton m/c so I recommend you go that route if you decide the GM setup doesn't work. In case you were not aware the only thing tick makes is the mounting block and they use the tilton m/c.

Oh and FYI the tilton m/c fixed my high rpm shift issues that were present with my stock m/c.

Thanks for the input.... I was leaning on buying the tilton and mating it to the DSE billet mounting block....... Is the 7/8 bore the way to go?

[Chad-1stGen]

I use the 7/8" m/c and it seems to work great. Just be advised that they aren't kidding when they say that it reduces the amount of required pedal travel when compared to the factory GM m/c. You are going to want a pedal stop if you don't have one already.

[badazz81z28]

Finch uses stock GM hydraulics and beats the snot of his car as well as the competition and seems to work great FWIW...

[MrElectric03]

I realize this is a few months old but figured I'd share my experience.

I had a 2001 WS6 and had major shifting issues going down the drag strip. After putting my built motor in it was downright embarrassing trying to run it down the strip. I switched to the tick setup and could shift fast enough that I didn't have to lift off the throttle to shift. The setup was awesome. I eventually put the car back to stock and sold it to buy my house.

Now I'm building my 68 Firebird using the same engine and am using the tilton master cylinder. I didn't want to pay the high tick Perf price when the 7/8 bore kit is under $100 and the hose needed can be bought in many different lengths to fit your application.

[Vince@Meanstreets]

I think the problem is with reliable shifting with the stock unit. May work great most of the time but it's that one time that will kill parts.