Big Ford Ends or Brand New 12 Bolt

[barrrf]

Ok, so on my Chevelle I wanted to do CTS-V brakes on the rear. Theyre fixed calipers so Id have to figure out to deal with pad knock back. I thought at first I could just do c-clip eliminators but from what Ive been reading the past few days the c-clip eliminators are more hassle than theyre worth. So the next best option I thought wouldve been to hack off the axle tubes and install the big ford ends - the only problem I have with that is my lack of trust for the local machine shops.

Currently, my car is Hotchkis Rear suspension components. They seem to be fine so Id like to keep them. Also, and this goes against what everyone else would do, I do NOT want to put floating calipers on. So with that in mind -

What would you do? Big Ford Ends on current 12 bolt? Buy new 12 bolt? Something else Im not thinking of?

[Build-It-Break-it]

I'd sell the 12 bolt and just buy a ford 9" or a floater rear end.

[barrrf]

Whats it worth? Fully functioning, posi, 3.42 gears.

[Sieg]

I'd do a little research and decode the stampings on housing so you really know what you have. That could add to the desirability of the unit for someone desiring a 'correct' restoration.

A local Craigs List search can give you an idea of local market pricing. Around here (Oregon 1-5 corridor) I saw prices anywhere from $500 to $1,500 and one for $2500 for a 12 bolt posi. The later was coded to a '66 Nova.

I'd guess $800 to $1,250 as an average, depending on how fast you want to turn it.

[barrrf]

Good call. I didn't think about checking the stamping.

[Vince@Meanstreets]

then there are these things:

https://lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=49657

https://lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=48782

[Build-It-Break-it]

Originally Posted by Vince@MSperfab

then there are these things:

https://lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=49657

https://lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=48782

I was going to post those to but he wants to run ctsv rear brakes.

[barrrf]

According to Moser, the only problem with running their eliminators is that the aluminum block will flex and eventually leak.

So I took apart their block and reverse engineered it and am going to have 2 made out of steel (4340PH) - or stainless steel - which ever happens to be sitting around.

Thoughts on that?

[SlowProgress]

My Mark Williams C-clip eliminator always leaked on one side. I pretty much decided it was leaking where the bearing adapter squeezes the backing plate up against the axle flange. The adapter O-ring seals to the backing plate, but nothing seals the backing plate to the axle flange, unless you make a gasket or use sealer of some type. I finally gave up trying to make the leak go away and put Torino ends on this time around. Just make sure all the surfaces are clean and flat. Make sure the backing plate seals to the axle flange (which hopefully is straight). I guess if something is warped, the steel bearing carrier is more likely to pull it straight. I never really thought it was possible the adapter was flexing.

[Sieg]

Remind me why you need to eliminate the C-Clip axles?