vertical axle play - Lateral-g Forums

**WSSix** · #1 11-15-2014, 04:27 PM

How much up and down play should the axles have inside the housing? I can move mine up a little. Of course it slides in an out too since I still have the c-clips in.

I ask because I'm chasing a noise. It sounds like the rotor is scrapping as I go around a left hand turn. I don't have to be really loading the suspension either It's not a heavy scrape. More of a light weight one. It's definitely a rotational scrapping sound. I had the rear brake apart on that side and couldn't find anything. Happens whether I'm on the brakes or not. I'm fairly confident it's the rear driver's side anyway. Doesn't happen when going through a right hand turn.

craig510 · #2 11-15-2014, 06:38 PM

It should have virtually no up and down play.

Vince@Meanstreets · #3 11-15-2014, 11:42 PM

What rear brakes? Pull your pads and check your abutment to rotor clearance. You should have equal distance side to side.

Vertical play is worn bearings.

**WSSix** · #4 11-16-2014, 06:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by craig510

It should have virtually no up and down play.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vince@MSperfab

What rear brakes? Pull your pads and check your abutment to rotor clearance. You should have equal distance side to side.

Vertical play is worn bearings.

That's what I was expecting for an answer. Just thought I'd ask in case I was wrong. Oh well, I'm looking to get another rear end build for me anyway.

C5 rear brakes. I pulled the rear brakes apart yesterday and couldn't find anywhere that there was contact occurring. There was plenty of clearance between the rotor and abutment pad with the axle pushed in or pulled out. I have no interior in the car so I'm rather positive on the location of the noise. Guess I should look elsewhere too just in case.

Thanks

Vince@Meanstreets · #5 11-16-2014, 11:31 AM

The outer edge of the rotor is tough to tell. Also on the inside of the hat where the parking brake sits.
You can spray a light coat of flat black primer on the suspect surfaces and go for a ride and try to duplicate the condition. It will make it easier to find.

**WSSix** · #6 11-16-2014, 12:42 PM

True. I'll keep that trick in mind. I'm not sure what I'll do since I'm looking to replace this rearend. It leaks and has already had new ends welded on but the shop didn't do a good job etc. I'm ready for a new one that will hold up and is built right even if it does force me to change rear brake setup. It's only money, right?

Vince@Meanstreets · #7 11-16-2014, 03:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WSSix

True. I'll keep that trick in mind. I'm not sure what I'll do since I'm looking to replace this rearend. It leaks and has already had new ends welded on but the shop didn't do a good job etc. I'm ready for a new one that will hold up and is built right even if it does force me to change rear brake setup. It's only money, right?

you can have the correst ends put on it. So are you going to a 12 or 9?

**WSSix** · #8 11-16-2014, 06:59 PM

At this point I would need new axle tubes I believe, Vince. I already had new Moser ends put on once. They narrowed the rear by just a little bit to get those on. They also didn't weld the tubes to the carrier correctly because it leaks there now. So yeah, new rear end for me I think.

I really want to keep the ten bolt if possible. The problem is I also want to eliminate the c clips and put tapered bearings on the tube ends so I can go around corners reliably. I would like to do this without a bolt on c clip eliminator kit like the one from Strange. From what I've been able to find out so far, I'm looking at a lot of custom work. I hate it because the ten bolt is plenty strong enough for me, weighs less, and robs less power than the 12 bolt or 9 in. For me, it's the superior choice. I'm just not certain I can get it built to go around corners reliably. I need to do more research.

This is also completely separate from figuring out this scraping noise, too. The rear will get swapped out eventually.

Thanks

Vince@Meanstreets · #9 11-16-2014, 07:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WSSix

At this point I would need new axle tubes I believe, Vince. I already had new Moser ends put on once. They narrowed the rear by just a little bit to get those on. They also didn't weld the tubes to the carrier correctly because it leaks there now. So yeah, new rear end for me I think.

I really want to keep the ten bolt if possible. The problem is I also want to eliminate the c clips and put tapered bearings on the tube ends so I can go around corners reliably. I would like to do this without a bolt on c clip eliminator kit like the one from Strange. From what I've been able to find out so far, I'm looking at a lot of custom work. I hate it because the ten bolt is plenty strong enough for me, weighs less, and robs less power than the 12 bolt or 9 in. For me, it's the superior choice. I'm just not certain I can get it built to go around corners reliably. I need to do more research.

This is also completely separate from figuring out this scraping noise, too. The rear will get swapped out eventually.

Thanks

I love them 85's.

No one near you to re do and overhaul it? Get the tubes silicon bronzed up and new ends for bolt in axles.

**WSSix** · #10 11-17-2014, 03:10 PM

I posted on NastyZ looking for someone but didn't get any replies. I just haven't taken the time to call around and find out for myself either. I have no doubt someone will be around that can do it though. Just have to find them.