LT1 style clutch install issue

[SSLance]

I've got a 1 piece rear main seal block with a LT1 style T56 out of a 1997 Camaro. I've been running the stock clutch that came with the trans for 1.5 years and it was fine except slipping a bit under high torque use. This weekend I'm installing a Ram Powergrip Performance clutch kit good up to 550 hp.

http://www.ramclutches.com/products/street%20strip.htm

Upon first install, the push pin between slave cylinder and fork slipped out and missed the fork and the clutch would not release. I pulled the trans anyway to make sure the fork engaged in the throwout bearing correctly and it all looked good so I reinstalled the trans. The clutch pedal feels perfect now but when the trans is in neutral, engine running, while pushing the pedal in about half way in, about when the clutch would start releasing...I get a banging noise. The car will not start when in first gear and clutch pedal depressed. It will start in 4th gear with pedal depressed but serious banging noise happens.

Something is hitting when the clutch is released and spinning (trying to spin) inside the pressure plate\flywheel.

Of course, you can not see ANYTHING without complete disassemble. I'm thinking either the clutch fork is hitting the pressure plate when it's depressed far enough to release clutch or something on the engine side of the clutch disc is hitting something near the flywheel bolts.

Has anyone else experienced a symptom like this? Any suggestions or tips and tricks for a LT1 style clutch install that I'm missing?

I have to go to a visitation so I'm cleaning up and leaving for a while, but this afternoon I guess I'll pull the mutha grubber one more time and look for witness marks. At least I'm getting good at removing and reinstalling the trans now...

[SSLance]

Hopefully it's a little bit thicker Pressure Plate and clutch disc and the fork is traveling to far hitting the pressure plate. I found a lot of posts about this on the camaro boards. Fix is to grind on the clutch fork, shorten the Tee pivot or a little bit of both. They even say you can get the clutch fork out just by moving the trans back a bit, not removing it completely which is an added plus.

Report back later...

[SSLance]

Just to put a cap on this in case anyone runs into a similar problem in the future and finds this thread.

The above is exactly what it was. Check out the marks on the clutch fork and all of the metal in the bell housing I found upon removal.



And I didn't run it like that very long either.

I took a 1/8" off of the bottom of the Tee pivot block and rounded in smooth the ridges on the Clutch fork where it was rubbing the pressure plate just in case.

This is where it had rubbed on the pressure plate





and where the yellow marks are on the side of the fork is where it was hitting the edge of the pressure plate and the bolt heads...the area that I ground down just a bit to make sure.



I test drove the car tonight and it all works great, no strange noises and the clutch engages and releases just like it should. The pedal travel and engagement spot seem very similar to where they were before, so I'm gonna call it good. Now I just have to break it in.

[Ron Sutton]

Originally Posted by SSLance

I test drove the car tonight and it all works great, no strange noises and the clutch engages and releases just like it should. The pedal travel and engagement spot seem very similar to where they were before, so I'm gonna call it good. Now I just have to break it in.

Break it in? Just stand on the gas & let her rip potato chip.




I'm kidding. Clutches are a lot like brake pads. You want to build heat slowly & progressively the first time out. Then it's good to go.

[SSLance]

I was as nervous as a whore in church when I pulled out of the driveway the first time Ron. After everything I went through this weekend I babied it until I knew it was doing everything it was supposed to do and nothing was falling off the car along the way...

Then I started to get a bit more aggressive with it but still not going full dirty harry on it. I did do a full throttle from a slow roll blast right before pulling back into the driveway and it was certainly different in the way it put the power down.

Next time out I'll build the heat back into it again slowly then break it in properly.

[WSSix]

Thanks for posting this, Lance. I might actually build my engine one day and I'll need to upgrade the clutch when I do. Glad you got it sorted out.