How about some clutch recommendations?

[OBeer-WAN-Kenobi]

Hi all,

I split my donor (2004 GTO) engine and transmission this weekend to have a look and I think I'd like to put a new clutch in while I've got it apart. In actuality, the clutch doesn't really have that much wear but there are hot spots and chatter on it so I think the previous owner was one of those people that shouldn't have been driving a manual. I found out no one around here faces pressure plates anymore and I can't even order just the clutch disc itself so it looks like I'll have to buy new.

Anyway, I'm looking for a good value replacement, and even a stock one might be OK for now. My eventual goal of "as close to 600 RWHP I can get" doesn't really need to factor in here as that will be a long while due to funds. I've got a lift so I'm not too worried if I need to change it out later. However, as with a lot of my build, I'm over-doing it where it makes sense financially with my end goals in mind.

I'd like to not have to mess with bell-housing extensions and other weird stuff for now but would like to get a good daily driving clutch that will hold as much torque as possible for a reasonable price.

Thanks!

[NvrDun71]

GM LS7 clutch kit

[OBeer-WAN-Kenobi]

Originally Posted by NvrDun71

GM LS7 clutch kit

Doesn't that require a bell housing spacer or something? I thought I read that somewhere but maybe I'm wrong.

[NvrDun71]

Originally Posted by OBeer-WAN-Kenobi

Doesn't that require a bell housing spacer or something? I thought I read that somewhere but maybe I'm wrong.

No special bellhousing or spacers required. They are good bang for the buck, have smooth operation, and can hold up to some power. Mine needed a small slave shim for proper engagement but was a direct bolt in otherwise.

[OBeer-WAN-Kenobi]

Originally Posted by NvrDun71

No special bellhousing or spacers required. They are good bang for the buck, have smooth operation, and can hold up to some power. Mine needed a small slave shim for proper engagement but was a direct bolt in otherwise.

I think I may go this way then when budget allows. I like running off the shelf parts whenever possible so this is up my alley.

[71RS/SS396]

600 rwhp will be right on the edge of what the LS7 clutch can handle.

[67Rally]

I have a Monster Level 2 in mine and I'm very happy with it. I think it's a little firmer than stock, but I wouldn't have any issue DD'ing it. It's good for up to 550 ft/lbs.

I got it from Tick Performance:
http://www.tickperformance.com/monst...-capacity-550/

[67Rally]

Originally Posted by 71RS/SS396

600 rwhp will be right on the edge of what the LS7 clutch can handle.

I looked at the LS7 clutch, but I was advised that they were only good for around 450rwhp.

[OBeer-WAN-Kenobi]

Originally Posted by 71RS/SS396

600 rwhp will be right on the edge of what the LS7 clutch can handle.

Yes, I agree. I just think it will be quite a while until I reach that level of power. Funds are the issue. I want to go supercharged on flex-fuel eventually. I'm making sure to buy the best components that I can AFFORD for the moment. Like, it made sense to buy the Walbro 400 pump instead of a smaller one because the cost wasn't that much more. I'm struggling a bit with the clutches though.

I'm now considering this clutch:

http://w.ivenue.com/hendrixengineeri...et-slayer.html

For just a wee bit more than an LS7 I can go up in the amount of HP/TQ it will take.

Originally Posted by 67Rally

I have a Monster Level 2 in mine and I'm very happy with it. I think it's a little firmer than stock, but I wouldn't have any issue DD'ing it. It's good for up to 550 ft/lbs.

I got it from Tick Performance:
http://www.tickperformance.com/monst...-capacity-550/

I'm looking at that one too. I'm leaning towards the street slayer though after reading a lot of forum posts and talking to the guy at Hendrix on the phone.


Now, if anyone wants to donate to the "Poor O-Beer Build a car fund" I'm all for that and will install whatever they buy me!

BTW, I got in my old truck this morning to drive into work, pushed in the clutch, started it, took my foot off the clutch, and there sat my clutch pedal; on the floor. I had to do emergency "break away" lubrication to my linkage and the joint about which the pedal rotates. Wisconsin winter road grime is rusting my junk! I was going to be late to work anyway so I adjusted the timing while I had it in the shop.