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Old 07-07-2013, 06:16 PM
MattWash08's Avatar
MattWash08 MattWash08 is offline
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Default SBF needs to be rebuilt... Need help/suggestions!

Motor on my 69 mustang fastback took a crap. Started running really rough. Lifter springs were warped upon inspection. Replaced those & still couldn't get good compression. Going to do a full rebuild. Not motor savvy though so I would like some input/suggestions. This is a budget rebuild though, so I don't have $$ for Aluminum heads, etc. at the moment.....

Current motor specs(as stated from previous owner, was supposedly rebuilt in 2001)

-302 block bored .030 over
-new PAW flat top pistons(new rings & bearings) for about 10.5 to 1 Compression
-Ported exhausted openings on heads
-new water pump
-new timing chain
-new high volume oil pump
-roller tipped rockers
-performer rpm intake
-Edelbrock 1406 600cfm carb
-Crane Fireball II 290H cam(216* @ .050 and .484 lift, intake and exhaust)

Car is running a T5 five speed now. 3.80 gears & a Auburn posi

Any input is greatly appreciated. I want an aggressive lopey idle.. Dont know if I should change the cam or anything else components wise!

Thanks, Matt
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1969 mustang fastback
-302,t5, and alot of other plans....
https://lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=31687
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  #2  
Old 07-07-2013, 06:59 PM
WSSix WSSix is offline
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Default

Since you're one a budget, I'd focus my money on making sure the machine work and hard to replace items are as good as you can afford. By that I mean spend the money to have the block torque plate honed and maybe even line bore the crank journals. Balance the rotating assembly and get good rods and pistons. They don't have to be expensive and fancy. What they need to be is correct for your current build and hopefully future upgrades. There is such a thing as going overkill on parts selection. For instance, you don't need H-beam connecting rods in order to have quality rods. You may not even need forged pistons. Though if the cost is only marginally more than hyper-eutectic, I'd consider the upgrade. Maybe even look into coating the crankcase area with that oil resistant paint that helps oil flow back. Or spending time smoothing out casting flash on the block to help oil flow back. Those are the areas I would focus on and the path I would take. I actually intend to take this path with my LT1 when the time comes. I recommend this because changing cams and cylinder heads later is easy compared to having to redo the block and rotating assembly. You do those right the first time and you can support a lot of upgrades later on.

Good luck!
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Current rides: 2000 BMW 540i/6 and 86 C10.

Former ride: 1979 Trans Am WS6: LT1/T56, Kore 3 C5/6 brakes, BMW 18in rims
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