BMW Apex Wheels - Forgeline look alike?

[ADiCarlo]

So I really like the Forgeline GA3R (Duh) but not sure if I can with the price. But as I kept looking at these wheels they reminded me of another pair I almost bought for a BMW I used to have.

I'm going with DSE tubs and a custom rear axle so technically I can adjust for most back spacing and the wheels come in 11 inch at there widest so I think this might work but my only worry is:

Do any mods need to be made due to bolt pattern?

Also how does the back spacing sound on the rear in terms of shock mounting position (I'm thinking of going with a speedtech torque arm set up)

Specifications: Diameter: 18" | Width: 11" | Offset: 25mm | Lug Pattern: 5x120mm | Centerbore: 72.6mm | Weight: 23.35lbs~

[T_Raven]

Lots of guys run BMW pattern wheels on gm cars. Plenty of people say it's a bad idea but plenty say they do it with no issue. Here's a good thread about re-cutting the wheels to 5x4.75

http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/wh...t-pattern.html

I have a set of Racing Hart wheels in the BMW pattern. I haven't put them on anything yet but if I'm not happy with how they fit then I'll do like in that thread.

As far as back spacing. You didn't say what car you have but I don't think 11" wide wheels fit on the back of too many muscle cars without mini tubbing.

[ADiCarlo]

Originally Posted by T_Raven

Lots of guys run BMW pattern wheels on gm cars. Plenty of people say it's a bad idea but plenty say they do it with no issue. Here's a good thread about re-cutting the wheels to 5x4.75

http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/wh...t-pattern.html

I have a set of Racing Hart wheels in the BMW pattern. I haven't put them on anything yet but if I'm not happy with how they fit then I'll do like in that thread.

As far as back spacing. You didn't say what car you have but I don't think 11" wide wheels fit on the back of too many muscle cars without mini tubbing.

Ah how could I forget that! They would be going on a 1968 Camaro that is getting DSE tubs with a custom cut 9 inch rear end. Pretty much I need to figure out my wheels to decide how much to cut the rear end down.

[Twoblackmarks...]

Personally I do not think those 0.65 mm does anything, most People does not use hubsentric (is that the right Word) Wheels anyway.

The bolts hold the Wheels sideway/makes it not fall off, and the Wheel should fit the hub perfectly so the the weight of the car is on the hub/axle and not on the Wheel studs. Beacause if not, it really does not matter with those 0.65mm, everything flexes around anyway when it does not fit the hub right. Maybe even it is good With the 0.65mm "preload" on the bolts?

I have used non hub centric bmw Wheel on track With no problem (95 Firebird-Heavy car) And I have also seen real race cars use non hub centric "wrong" bolt pattern Wheels With no problem.

But if you use Your car on track, always remember to retighten your Wheels in the pits between every run, they will loosen up, no matter how good they fit, center bolt race Wheels also loosen up.

Added: I will add that, when I tighten the BMW Wheels I do it gradually, so it centers itself, so all the bolts get equally "bended" He..He.. But the right ting is of course to have the exactly right bolt circle, but I personaly think it is not important, when it is so little, on the other hand, it would have been important if it only was 4 bolt Wheels though, since they dont "self center" the same way. But this is my opinion. I understand if People will machine them right, it will be ultimately the best way.

[Ron in SoCal]

^ I wouldn't want others to see simply that post and think it's 'OK'...

I have seen wheel studs bust off with only street usage. Worse yet would be on a track. That's disater waiting to happen IMO. Do what you want, but in your shoes I would at least get a set of hub adapters with the correct bolt pattern.

Betcha Tobin chimes in...

[Twoblackmarks...]

Originally Posted by Ron in SoCal

^ I wouldn't want others to see simply that post and think it's 'OK'...

I have seen wheel studs bust off with only street usage. Worse yet would be on a track. That's disater waiting to happen IMO. Do what you want, but in your shoes I would at least get a set of hub adapters with the correct bolt pattern.

Betcha Tobin chimes in...

I agree that it is not the "right thing to do", but I have not seen studs or bolts broken in a road race, I have seen drag cars rip studs, and they often do not use hub centric Wheels, and I think it is often because of that (they use the right bolt circle) Or that they have not tighten the Wheel good enough is the most often cause. (on any type of setup)

I have seen cars loose Wheels With adapters. I think adapters are worse than the 0.65mm wrong. That could be because they use cheap adapters or that they often use too thick adapters, I do not know that for sure. And you get more weight on the Wheel bearings With them. Especially thick ones.

And adapters is rarely legal in real racing, probably just because of that?

I do not mean to sound like an self claimed expert, even though it seems so probably. But it is my opinion that it is more important that it is hub centric than 0.65 wrong, if it was more than that I would do something about for sure. Teoretical if it is hub centric, it should be very little stress on the bolts or studs, if it is not hub centric ALL the stress are on the bolt/studs

All this "China" Wheels probably are a bit wrong anyway He..He..

Sorry if I seem "harsh" or anything, English/American is not my mother Language, I dont want to seem like an a**hole if it seems like that

[Ron in SoCal]

Your english is fine and you're entitled to your opinion. Thanks for chiming in.

[Twoblackmarks...]

Thanks, and those Apex Wheels there are cool looking by the way

[ADiCarlo]

Thanks guys for all the info. I'm going to read in detail the machining thread and see if its option. These wheels are under 1500 And have been track tested by multiple BMW drivers without issue so I feel like it might be a good choice.