I have decided I am going to not use the stock subframe I have been using on my car. I, years ago, had the seams stitch welded and the upper control arm mount removed, cut to Guldstrand specs and rewelded on. This frame was from a 68 I had years ago. I am going to dig out my original 67 frame and weld up the seams, possibly smooth it up with metal to make it look better. I am going to use the Ridetech Tru Turn setup as well as the ATS/Chicane upper coil-over mounts.
My question is, what is the best way going about welding the seams? I understand not to run full beads. Weld, say 1" seams, moving around to control the heat. Would it be completely necessary to make a jig to mount the frame to during the welding process or can I get away without having a jig. Keep in mind I am contemplating welding in strips of metal to make the frame not have the step appearance seen on the top and bottom of the frame rails.
Yes you need to move around to control heat, one inch or so and you will be fine. I welded mine this way and I did not use a jig. I also smoothed mine top and bottom, just remember that this metal is NOT very thick and is forty years old so if you put to much heat in any one area you will blow through it. Also watch when you are grinding it donw and remember to keep the disks on the weld and not the frame or guess what you will go through the frame. I use flap disks and they cut the welds very nice. Now I'm getting ready to install DSE coil over brackets. I and also going with the Tru Turn, what lower control arms are you using? Hope this helps.
I've replaced just about every panel on my car, so I am familiar with welding on these old cars. I was just a bit nervous welding the frame without a jig. Last time, I farmed that job out, but this time I will be doing it myself.
Brian Hobaugh SCCA National Tour June 2014
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Subframe seam welding
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