CPP & PSC Suspension Packages - Feedback

[American]

I'm still considering Hotchkis but am looking at Classic Performance and Performance Suspension packages as well.

CPP has their package with tubular arms, made here in the U.S. for 1599.00: http://www.classicperform.com/Store/.../6774PTK-1.htm

they also have the next stage with QA coil overs and rear QA shocks for 1999.00: http://www.classicperform.com/Store/.../6774PTK-2.htm

Sign up in their forums and post a few times to get another 5% discount.

Then there's PSC.

Stage II with springs, shocks, sway bars, KYB (can upgrade to others) and a full poly front end rebuild kit for 1150.00 (plus any shock upgrades) and free shipping: http://www.performancesuspension.com...oducts_id=6061

And Stage 4 with Global West control arms for 2148.00: http://www.performancesuspension.com...oducts_id=6067

PSC uses Hotchkis front coils and McCoy 180lb rear leafs, Hellwig bars, 1" and 1 1/8".

Lowered leafs are a bit more.. but the total with a poly body mount kit and full Stage II suspension package to my door with KYB shocks is $1335.00, pretty hard to beat. Maybe add a Pitman arm for $75.00 and the adjuster sleeves are $14.00 each.

Anyone use these suspension packages?

[Sieg]

The Classic links didn't work for me.

I've been researching F&R components for my '69 for a few years. IMO Speedtech is currently the best overall value. One thing appears certain, price increases are coming.

[American]

Fixed the links.

[Sieg]

One issue I currently have with my older and settled Global West leaf's is rear ride height. They're supposed to be 2" lowered but my car is easily 1-1.25" high. Reluctantly, I'm going to install 1" blocks and see what happens. The coil over set ups allow more ride height and spring rate adjustability, so depending on how important stance and handling is to you, factor that into the decision.

[American]

I really figure for my use that PSC's Stage II setup will be great. I don't really see the need for tubular control arms for this car and what I install will be light years better than what I have now. This car is more of a driver with a higher level of performance, my 327 only knocks down 425HP so it's not like I'm going racing anytime soon... just harassing the locals.

Now...when I get around to building my 68 that I want to build.. .that will be a different story. Stripped down, big HP, monster brakes and a no compromise suspension.

[American]

Finally getting back around to this after being clobbered by home renovation costs.

I have a set of adjustable Konis for the rear. I'm leaning towards PSC's QA1 Pro adjustable coil overs up front $499, their sway bars $180 ea, 2" drop leafs $270, a full poly front end rebuild kit $240, body mount kit $60 with free shipping (keep that in mind, this stuff is heavy). About $1450.00 to my door with the leaf mount kit/bushings, etc. Obviously you would need rear shocks so add that accordingly.

I'm thinking coil overs as I've read too many posts where guys are fighting front end clearance issues...too little or too much. Most folks that I've talked to said unless you are serious about tracking the car, etc then tubular arms are overkill and a waste of money. Yes, they look great... yes they will lower your unsprung weight but I'm not going to track the car unless it's the random club track day, otherwise I'm just looking for a solid handling car, not cutting edge race bred handling.

I don't want to spend more than about 1500.00 for suspension, rebuild kit, etc so this seems to be about the best deal for me.

[dhutton]

Poly bushings have a reputation for binding and squeaking. Delrin bushings might be worth checking into.

Don

[American]

These are Graphite Impregnated Polyurethane by Energy Suspension, which by most accounts are at least not near as noisy, some say they have no problems at all. Having said that I've had raw poly bushings on a car many years ago... drove me nuts.

I'll see about some delrin first...thanks for reminding me.

[marolf101x]

I would suggest you consider a few things if you want to go to coil-overs:
1-we have found that the stock control arm is not capable of holding the weight of the vehicle on the small stock shock mounting location unless material is added
2-a stock control arm will require you to use a very short stroke shock (unless you modify the upper frame mount)
3-if you lower the vehicle your ball joint and alignment angles can be off considerably
--Correctly designed tubular control arms fix these issues by providing a double shear coil over mount, drop the mounting location to allow a longer stroke shock, and correct any geometry that may be messed up when the vehicle is lowered. So they are not just for looks, unsprung weight, and deflection mitigation.

[American]

Interesting. I appreciate the info and will consider it accordingly.