
I'm enjoying the discussion here...
I'm a lighting expert for my day job! The comments about painting surfaces white or a lighter color (more reflective) are spot on. It also has effect of reducing shadows and providing better uniformity.
There are several terms you should become familar with:
- CCT = Correlated Color Temperature in Kelvin (please don't say degrees Kelvin as it is technically incorrect!) 2700-3000 are "warm" whites 4000 and above are "cool" whites. The way to think about it is if you want reds, oragnes and yellows to "pop" then select warm white, if you want blues and greens to pop then select cool white. They make lamps that are in between which are 3500K
- CRI = Color Rendering Index is a measure of how well color is rendered/represented. 100% accurate is a halogen incandescent. Shop lights are in the 70's, premuim linear fluorescent are in the mid-80's, CFls are ~80. Bottom lines... cheap shop lights suck!
- Efficacy (efficiency) in lumens (light output) per watt. An incandescent is ~15 lumens/watt, CFL's are 50-60, premium linear fluorecent approaches 100 lm/W.
So what do I recommend?
Don't buy $10 shop lites... they're crap... but they are cheap!!!
Buy surface mounted linear fluorescent strip lites that use T-8 lamps and electronic ballasts. They cost about ~$20 at Home Depot. Why? Very long life (30,000-46000 hours), no hum, flicker or striations (important when woking around moving parts!), much better color and CRI and probably the most important... they are the most efficient!!!
As for switching... its true that frequent switching shortens life but a lamp that stays off has a longer calendar life. Rule of thumb is turn the lamps off if you are gone from more than 20 minutes.
As for using your lamps as heaters... yes, but if you are heating your garage with electric resistance heat then you have more spare money than I do!!!