I had mine replaced and it fit really good from what the body man said. I will tell you to check your window moldings BEFORE you weld in the panel. The rear top corners aren't stamped the best and most of the time leave a gap b/t your molding and the radius of the roof skin in the window channel.
Check out the forum body shop section at www.camaros.net and do a search on roof skin replacement. You'll find plenty of information on it.
__________________
Chris
1968 Camaro: DSE tubs and sub frame connectors, Chassisworks G-Link rear suspension, Speedtech upper and lower control arms, Chicane front coilover conversion with QA1's, Baer brakes, 18" Forgeline SO3's, Vintage Air, 6.0L LS 417 rwhp, 4L65E, Moser 12 Bolt w/3.73's.... http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2391864
I had mine replaced and it fit really good from what the body man said. I will tell you to check your window moldings BEFORE you weld in the panel. The rear top corners aren't stamped the best and most of the time leave a gap b/t your molding and the radius of the roof skin in the window channel.
Check out the forum body shop section at www.camaros.net and do a search on roof skin replacement. You'll find plenty of information on it.
That's right.. we replaced my 67 roof and had to cut and re-weld a section around the rear window molding. We also had to cut and modify a section around the drip rail. Overall the fit was pretty good.
Here is what we did. Invest in some good clamps that fit inside the drip rails as well as some clecos.
I followed a few of the links to roof skin replacement, and have a few questions.
I looks to me that most have just layed the new skin over the old and not cut out the old roof. Can this be done ie: not cut out what i planned on replacing. I realize this might just be to check the fit of the new roof, but it sure would make it alot easier for me if I didn't need to remove the old skin.
Thanks for all the help.
No, you want to remove the old roof skin. Get a 4-1/2" grinder and grinding shield and grind the existing welds down to the underlying metal and she comes right off. You could have it off in probably 3-4 hours if you took your time. It's not rocket science. You can do it!
Plus, you'll want to check your roof skin bracing when the old roof is off. You may need to replace some if it's in really bad shape. At minimum, you'll want to wire wheel the surface rust off of it and prime it.
Got any pictures?
__________________
Chris
1968 Camaro: DSE tubs and sub frame connectors, Chassisworks G-Link rear suspension, Speedtech upper and lower control arms, Chicane front coilover conversion with QA1's, Baer brakes, 18" Forgeline SO3's, Vintage Air, 6.0L LS 417 rwhp, 4L65E, Moser 12 Bolt w/3.73's.... http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2391864
I am getting the idea on most of the spots to match up the roof skin, but where it joins up to the rear quarters. Do you but the to seams right up or is there a small amount of over lap.
I am getting the idea on most of the spots to match up the roof skin, but where it joins up to the rear quarters. Do you but the to seams right up or is there a small amount of over lap.
My car had GM quarters which have a step stamped into them where the roof meets the quarter (I'm not sure about the repo-quarters). The roof fits into the step for welding. Some shops also put a step in the roof itself. We didn't think it was necessary.
Brian Hobaugh SCCA National Tour June 2014
First Hemi 'Cuda Convertible Ever Built
Short clips: Goodguys Pleasanton autocross and pit videos
67 Roof
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