...

Go Back   Lateral-g Forums > Technical Discussions > Paint and Body
User Name
Password



Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 10-25-2008, 12:47 PM
2Bad4Ya's Avatar
2Bad4Ya 2Bad4Ya is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Winston Salem, NC
Posts: 169
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Default Need Compounding/Buffing Advice

Have just color sanded the camaro this week, used mirka abranet 1k and then abralon 2k with my DA. It really smoothed out the paint and what orange peel that was present.

Started buffing/polishing this weekend. Using 3m Perfect it radiused white foam pad and 3m 6060 extra cut compound. The paint really shines up well even before I have polished, but I am seeing alot of ultra small DA sanding circles in the clear (have not seen but 2-3 pigtails). So I buff it again a 2nd time in hopes that will remove the scratches but marginal improvement if any.

Any suggestions on a compounding system that will cut out the scratches better, and not really eat up my clear coat to much? Do I need to go over it again and wetsand it by hand , etc... any tips from here on will really help.
__________________
http://www.FQUICK.com/2Bad4Ya
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 10-25-2008, 11:24 PM
blowngasr blowngasr is offline
Lateral-g Supporting Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: stockton calif
Posts: 65
Thanks: 6
Thanked 31 Times in 20 Posts
Default

a wool pad will help remove sand scratches better than foam,,wool first,then go over with foam.then polish with foam.....makes shineeeeeeee paint....
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 10-25-2008, 11:49 PM
camcojb's Avatar
camcojb camcojb is offline
Administrator
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Wilton, CA.
Posts: 13,321
Thanks: 7,108
Thanked 2,176 Times in 1,003 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by blowngasr View Post
a wool pad will help remove sand scratches better than foam,,wool first,then go over with foam.then polish with foam.....makes shineeeeeeee paint....
absolutely, wool does cut better than foam for the initial buff to remove sanding scratches. Have you done this before???????????

Jody
__________________
Jody

PAST CAR PROJECTS

Like Lateral-G on Facebook!

Follow Lateral-G on Instagram!

SPECIAL THANKS TO:
Jacob Ehlers and Amsoil for the lubricants and degreasers for my 70 Chevelle project
Shannon at Modo Innovations for the cool billet DBW bracket
Roadster Shop for their Chevelle SPEC Chassis
Dakota Digital for their Chevelle HDX Gauge Package
Painless Performance for their wiring harness

Ron Davis Radiators for their radiator and fan assembly.
Baer Brakes for their front and rear brakes

Texas Speed and Performance for their 427 LS Stroker
American Powertrain for their ProFit Magnum T56 kit
Currie Enterprises for their 9" Third Member
Forgeline for their GF3 Wheels
McLeod Racing for their RXT street twin clutch
Ididit for their steering column
Holley for their EFI and engine parts
Lokar and Clayton Machine for their pedals and door and window handles
Morris Classic Concepts for their 3 point belts and side mirrors
Thermotec for their heat sleeve and sound deadening products
Restomod Air for their Tru Mod A/C kit
Mightymouse Solutions for their catch can
Magnaflow for their 3" exhaust system
Aeromotive for their dual Phantom fuel system
Vintage Air for their new Mid Mount LS front drive
Hydratech Braking for their hydroboost system
Borgeson for their stainless steering shaft and u joints
Eddie Motorsports for their hood and trunk hinges and misc parts
TMI Products for their seats, door panels, and dash pad
Rock Valley Antique Auto Parts for their stainless fuel tank
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 10-27-2008, 06:49 AM
2Bad4Ya's Avatar
2Bad4Ya 2Bad4Ya is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Winston Salem, NC
Posts: 169
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Default

I have compounded out 2-3 cars before and never ran into this issue, but I would not say that my prior experiences make me an expert. I have been given alot of advice that makes sense, and think I can get r done now.

In the past I have used wool pads to compound, however I let a friend convince me the foam pad was better, etc... and the foam pad vs. wool pad is the only difference in prior scenerios and this one.
__________________
http://www.FQUICK.com/2Bad4Ya
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 10-27-2008, 08:40 AM
camcojb's Avatar
camcojb camcojb is offline
Administrator
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Wilton, CA.
Posts: 13,321
Thanks: 7,108
Thanked 2,176 Times in 1,003 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2Bad4Ya View Post
I have compounded out 2-3 cars before and never ran into this issue, but I would not say that my prior experiences make me an expert. I have been given alot of advice that makes sense, and think I can get r done now.

In the past I have used wool pads to compound, however I let a friend convince me the foam pad was better, etc... and the foam pad vs. wool pad is the only difference in prior scenerios and this one.
the foam pad is safer, harder to burn the paint with it. But it doesn't cut like wool either. It's just faster to use the wool pad for the first pass, then follow with the foam. It also really speeds the buffing process to be patient and meticulous with the sanding; the finer you work up to and end with (like 2500 grit) the easier and faster the buffing is.

Jody
__________________
Jody

PAST CAR PROJECTS

Like Lateral-G on Facebook!

Follow Lateral-G on Instagram!

SPECIAL THANKS TO:
Jacob Ehlers and Amsoil for the lubricants and degreasers for my 70 Chevelle project
Shannon at Modo Innovations for the cool billet DBW bracket
Roadster Shop for their Chevelle SPEC Chassis
Dakota Digital for their Chevelle HDX Gauge Package
Painless Performance for their wiring harness

Ron Davis Radiators for their radiator and fan assembly.
Baer Brakes for their front and rear brakes

Texas Speed and Performance for their 427 LS Stroker
American Powertrain for their ProFit Magnum T56 kit
Currie Enterprises for their 9" Third Member
Forgeline for their GF3 Wheels
McLeod Racing for their RXT street twin clutch
Ididit for their steering column
Holley for their EFI and engine parts
Lokar and Clayton Machine for their pedals and door and window handles
Morris Classic Concepts for their 3 point belts and side mirrors
Thermotec for their heat sleeve and sound deadening products
Restomod Air for their Tru Mod A/C kit
Mightymouse Solutions for their catch can
Magnaflow for their 3" exhaust system
Aeromotive for their dual Phantom fuel system
Vintage Air for their new Mid Mount LS front drive
Hydratech Braking for their hydroboost system
Borgeson for their stainless steering shaft and u joints
Eddie Motorsports for their hood and trunk hinges and misc parts
TMI Products for their seats, door panels, and dash pad
Rock Valley Antique Auto Parts for their stainless fuel tank
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 10-27-2008, 10:50 AM
Musclerodz's Avatar
Musclerodz Musclerodz is offline
Lateral-g Supporting Vendor
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: washington, ok
Posts: 4,286
Thanks: 22
Thanked 164 Times in 95 Posts
Default

The issue with DA and that fine of paper is the residue will ball up and can make the scratches you are seeing. Especially if you don;t keep the paper clean. Should come out if they are not that deep with a wool or firm foam pad and medium compund. I usually use the 3M Perfect-IT II. Is the 3M white pad firm or soft? I use Megueir's and theirs are a different color. I would suggest wet sanding with 2500 to get your da marks out and then buff again.
__________________
Mike Redpath
Musclerodz & Customz
facebook page
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 10-27-2008, 04:13 PM
DOOM's Avatar
DOOM DOOM is offline
Lateral-g Supporting Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: South Side Chicago
Posts: 2,912
Thanks: 7
Thanked 64 Times in 40 Posts
Default

Lose the DA !!!!!!! I use to allow this in my shop ''ITS FASTER'' but it takes that much longer to buff the DA cuts ... Just do it by hand you will be much happier with the results....
Mario
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 10-27-2008, 07:22 PM
J2SpeedandCustom J2SpeedandCustom is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 855
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

Are you seeing scratches or heavy swirl marks? The extra cut compounds are pretty aggressive.

What speed are you buffing at? With only sanding the clear with 1000 grit you should just need a compound like 3M 6062 and a yellow foam pad.
__________________
Jeff Allen
J2 Speed and Custom
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 10-29-2008, 08:57 AM
comp-spec's Avatar
comp-spec comp-spec is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: MA
Posts: 1,082
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by DOOM View Post
Lose the DA !!!!!!!
Mario
.....
__________________
Pete
Competition-Specialties.com
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 10-29-2008, 10:22 AM
yellowrallys yellowrallys is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: SC
Posts: 64
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

I like my final sanding to be with 2000 or 2500, by hand only, never a DA. I use a product called Sure Finish polish availible at autobodystore.com. Check out that site and read up on the techniqes. A lot of info.
Reply With Quote
Reply


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -7. The time now is 09:05 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright Lateral-g.net