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  #1  
Old 09-12-2008, 12:47 PM
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Default Brakes not working well

Well i'm still working out the bugs and brakes are one of them, I have Willwood 6 piston fronts and 4 piston rears with a Wilwood 1" master cylinder, the pedal is rather hard and feels like it just isnt stopping the car, like theres just not enough pressure, i vacumm bled the brakes and cant remember if i bled the MC, any suggestions on what i should try or look for, i also have there praportioning valve but its screwed all the way in for an open circuit. I guess the first thing i should do is bleed the master due to i cant remember if i ever have.
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Old 09-12-2008, 01:32 PM
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are these manual brakes? Have you bed the pads yet?

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Old 09-12-2008, 01:41 PM
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Hey Jody,
yes brakes are manual, and ignorance steps in, what do you mean bed them? are you talking about a stop and go type procedure to brake them in, if so no i havnt done anything other then try to stop and its a little scary.
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Old 09-12-2008, 06:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rsk68 View Post
Hey Jody,
yes brakes are manual, and ignorance steps in, what do you mean bed them? are you talking about a stop and go type procedure to brake them in, if so no i havnt done anything other then try to stop and its a little scary.
yes thats bedding them in... and if you dont recall bench bleeding the master then just do it to be safe... maybe check with wilwood on the proper bedding procedures ie:speeds/wait times for the pads you have i would bed them first before you attempt to bench bleed the MC cause either way the pads need to be beded and if thats the problem it saves you from haveing to pull the mc. have fun!
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Old 09-14-2008, 01:40 PM
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if you hadn't bled the mc, the pedal would be soft and spongy or just go right to the floor. It wouldn't be hard. It sounds like either your pedal ratio is off or the master cylinder has too large of a bore size for the calipers you are using.
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Old 09-14-2008, 03:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wedged View Post
if you hadn't bled the mc, the pedal would be soft and spongy or just go right to the floor. It wouldn't be hard. It sounds like either your pedal ratio is off or the master cylinder has too large of a bore size for the calipers you are using.
What is the bore for your master? 1" for manual brakes and 1.125 for power brakes. Sounds like your bore is too big. Bedding the pads has nothing to do with the feel of the pedal. It helps the pads contact the rotor, but has nothing to do with the hydraulics.
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Old 09-14-2008, 04:00 PM
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I drove a car with those same brakes and manual master, and it was the scariest car I've ever driven as far as stopping power. The bedding of the pads helped, but did not fix the issue. As above, you may have to go to a smaller diameter master, re-locate the arm on the brake lever for more leverage, or go to power brakes. I'd call Wilwood to see what they say, but I personally hate manual brakes.

Do you have the rod connected to the correct hole in the brake lever under the dash (the higher hole is manual brakes), or can you move it up and drill a new hole(watch the angle, needs to not be severe, plus the higher you go the less stroke you get so it's a balancing act)?
Jody
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SPECIAL THANKS TO:
Jacob Ehlers and Amsoil for the lubricants and degreasers for my 70 Chevelle project
Shannon at Modo Innovations for the cool billet DBW bracket
Roadster Shop for their Chevelle SPEC Chassis
Dakota Digital for their Chevelle HDX Gauge Package
Painless Performance for their wiring harness

Ron Davis Radiators for their radiator and fan assembly.
Baer Brakes for their front and rear brakes

Texas Speed and Performance for their 427 LS Stroker
American Powertrain for their ProFit Magnum T56 kit
Currie Enterprises for their 9" Third Member
Forgeline for their GF3 Wheels
McLeod Racing for their RXT street twin clutch
Ididit for their steering column
Holley for their EFI and engine parts
Lokar and Clayton Machine for their pedals and door and window handles
Morris Classic Concepts for their 3 point belts and side mirrors
Thermotec for their heat sleeve and sound deadening products
Restomod Air for their Tru Mod A/C kit
Mightymouse Solutions for their catch can
Magnaflow for their 3" exhaust system
Aeromotive for their dual Phantom fuel system
Vintage Air for their new Mid Mount LS front drive
Hydratech Braking for their hydroboost system
Borgeson for their stainless steering shaft and u joints
Eddie Motorsports for their hood and trunk hinges and misc parts
TMI Products for their seats, door panels, and dash pad
Rock Valley Antique Auto Parts for their stainless fuel tank
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Old 09-15-2008, 07:48 AM
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hey Jody,
I will take a look when i get home tonight and see where the rod is on the pedal, I agree its a little scary and I may consider a Hydraboost, i have called over at Wilwood as i work about 200 yards away from them and they want to take a look at it also.
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Old 09-16-2008, 09:18 AM
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Well I took a look last night and the rod is on the upper hole, so with that being eliminated I'm thinking just go Hydratech, I was looking at there site and there is no phone number to call them direct, PAUL are you here? I would like to talk to you.
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Old 09-17-2008, 10:27 AM
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Default Your master is too large

Call Wilwood and speak with one of the tech reps and they will get you squared away. I had the same problem and had to size my master way down, but i am running a twin set up. 5/8 front and 3/4 rear with a 5.3 pedal ratio. If you have the rod in the top hole you should have a 6:1 ratio. A 7/8 or 3/4 tandem master is probably what you need. Something else to check...what pad are you running. If you are running a BP-20, it is pretty agressive and will not stop well until a good amount of heat gets in the pad. A BP-10 would be better for the street (cold stops) and will still take autocross abuse. Save the BP-20's for track days.
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