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  #1  
Old 08-24-2008, 09:57 AM
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Default Car stumbling and dying

Hey Guys
I just put a new small block 434 in my car with a Pro-systems carb built specifically for my application. I've got just over 450 miles on the motor so far, but am having issues with the idle.

The car takes awhile for it to "warm up" until it will idle on its own, then seems to run fine for ahile where it will come to stop and idle but then after I drive it for awhile, when I come to a stop it wants to die unless I feather the throttle to keep it running...

For example....yesterday i drove it to work. When I first leave my house I need to keep tapping the throttle to keep it idling. The I get a couple of blocks, it idles fine. Get on the freeway for about 15 minutes, then off and through town... a couple of stop lights through town it wont idle when I come to a stop....it wants to stumble and die unless I feather the throttle.....

I havent pulled the plugs yet, but that was next.

I plan on getting it dyno tuned to really get it set up right, but want to put some more miles on the new motor and clutch etc before I really beat on it. For now I just want to get it to idle around town...

So any suggestions on what to try first ??
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Old 08-24-2008, 10:06 AM
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sounds lean. I'd check the carb adjustments first, starting with the mixture screws. Sounds like they're in too far. Float level, etc. should also be checked.

Jody
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Old 08-24-2008, 10:13 AM
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call patrick even on a weekend, he has some of the best tech support out there.
also i am with jody, try idle mixture screws, try 1/2 turn out and take for ride, also verify float level
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Old 08-24-2008, 11:52 AM
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Float level is good... thats what I checked first......

Its just wierd that it runs fine and then after awhile it starts trying to die at a stop.

So mixture screws all the way in and then back out 1/2 turn ??
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Old 08-24-2008, 12:06 PM
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no go out 1/2 turn from where it is now, however screw them in so you know where they are now and can reset it if it does not help any
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Old 08-24-2008, 12:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DRJDVM's '69 View Post
Float level is good... thats what I checked first......

Its just wierd that it runs fine and then after awhile it starts trying to die at a stop.

So mixture screws all the way in and then back out 1/2 turn ??
Ned, screw them in slowly watching vacuum or rpms; the vacuum will drop and the rpms will drop as it leans out. Start screwing them out until you get the best vacuum and/or highest rpms at idle. If you go too far out the rpms and vacuum will drop again. Find the happy medium, highest vacuum or rpm. You'll probably end up 1.5-2 turns out, sometimes a bit more.

Do both sides a couple times. If they're way off the idle speed may go up enough that you need to drop it back with the idle speed screw, that's fine. Also, if that carb has four corner idle circuits (idle mixture screws on the secondaries also) then do the same with them.

Jody
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Dakota Digital for their Chevelle HDX Gauge Package
Painless Performance for their wiring harness

Ron Davis Radiators for their radiator and fan assembly.
Baer Brakes for their front and rear brakes

Texas Speed and Performance for their 427 LS Stroker
American Powertrain for their ProFit Magnum T56 kit
Currie Enterprises for their 9" Third Member
Forgeline for their GF3 Wheels
McLeod Racing for their RXT street twin clutch
Ididit for their steering column
Holley for their EFI and engine parts
Lokar and Clayton Machine for their pedals and door and window handles
Morris Classic Concepts for their 3 point belts and side mirrors
Thermotec for their heat sleeve and sound deadening products
Restomod Air for their Tru Mod A/C kit
Mightymouse Solutions for their catch can
Magnaflow for their 3" exhaust system
Aeromotive for their dual Phantom fuel system
Vintage Air for their new Mid Mount LS front drive
Hydratech Braking for their hydroboost system
Borgeson for their stainless steering shaft and u joints
Eddie Motorsports for their hood and trunk hinges and misc parts
TMI Products for their seats, door panels, and dash pad
Rock Valley Antique Auto Parts for their stainless fuel tank
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Old 08-24-2008, 01:01 PM
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the pro systems hp1000 i got for the 496 in vins car, the mixture screws are only 3/4 a turn out from seat, i messed with it but it just messed carb up, put them back and have never had a problem.
you should really call pro systems(patricks) tech line
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Old 08-24-2008, 01:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 68protouring454 View Post
the pro systems hp1000 i got for the 496 in vins car, the mixture screws are only 3/4 a turn out from seat, i messed with it but it just messed carb up, put them back and have never had a problem.
you should really call pro systems(patricks) tech line
that's true Jake, with a modded carb like that the correct setting could be anywhere. Give it what it wants, try adjusting it but don't get hung up on exactly how many turns that ends up being.

Jody
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SPECIAL THANKS TO:
Jacob Ehlers and Amsoil for the lubricants and degreasers for my 70 Chevelle project
Shannon at Modo Innovations for the cool billet DBW bracket
Roadster Shop for their Chevelle SPEC Chassis
Dakota Digital for their Chevelle HDX Gauge Package
Painless Performance for their wiring harness

Ron Davis Radiators for their radiator and fan assembly.
Baer Brakes for their front and rear brakes

Texas Speed and Performance for their 427 LS Stroker
American Powertrain for their ProFit Magnum T56 kit
Currie Enterprises for their 9" Third Member
Forgeline for their GF3 Wheels
McLeod Racing for their RXT street twin clutch
Ididit for their steering column
Holley for their EFI and engine parts
Lokar and Clayton Machine for their pedals and door and window handles
Morris Classic Concepts for their 3 point belts and side mirrors
Thermotec for their heat sleeve and sound deadening products
Restomod Air for their Tru Mod A/C kit
Mightymouse Solutions for their catch can
Magnaflow for their 3" exhaust system
Aeromotive for their dual Phantom fuel system
Vintage Air for their new Mid Mount LS front drive
Hydratech Braking for their hydroboost system
Borgeson for their stainless steering shaft and u joints
Eddie Motorsports for their hood and trunk hinges and misc parts
TMI Products for their seats, door panels, and dash pad
Rock Valley Antique Auto Parts for their stainless fuel tank
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  #9  
Old 08-24-2008, 01:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by camcojb View Post
that's true Jake, with a modded carb like that the correct setting could be anywhere. Give it what it wants, try adjusting it but don't get hung up on exactly how many turns that ends up being.

Jody
exactly jody, if i were ned and did not want to get to into it to deep with tools,
i would turn the idle mixture screws all(4) out 1/2 turn, go for ride, if it got better but not perfect go 1/4 turn more out.

just before doing that turn them into seat so you can return it back to how it was originally.
on vins car when we turned them out, it made it pig fat, on just off throttle and idling.
so it may help yours, try it, but call patrick also
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Old 08-24-2008, 02:13 PM
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Idle speed is very important as well. Carbuerators are notorious for variation in idle speed. Depending on your camshaft shoot for 800-1000 minimum. That is where you want to start adjusting your idle mixture. After your mixture adjustments then re dial in your idle speed. A little to fast is better than slow. It gives your carb some room to wonder with varying conditions. All the adjustments should be made at operating temp.
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Last edited by Vegas69; 08-24-2008 at 02:17 PM.
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