Are these the Correct Sanding Steps / Grits?

[ragtop396]

I'm staring to block the high build, are these steps correct???

- For HighBuild, guidecoat and dry sand up to 400g, putty as needed and redo as needed..
- After Sealer, guidecoat and wet sand 400 - 600g (redo if needed)
- After BC/CC, wet sand 1500-2000g (1000g if bad orange peel or trash); *will i have to sand BC?

I'm just trying to understand what grits to use within each section.

Thanks.

[GM Muscle]

heres how i do my jobs:
-high build, guide coat, 180 dry, touch up knicks and chips
-high build, guide coat, 320 dry-straight block then circle sand.(no straight lines)
-sealer, base, intercoat, 1500 just to knock the trash down and denib,( not a full on wet sand, just a slight scuff)
-2 more coats of base then clear.
-600 wet the clear then reclear.

im just not a huge fan of wetsanding and i feel the dry paper and block is way less hassle and has a straighter result. u can skip the 180 step if your not lookin for show quality. i just like to be sure! i think another key is letting the primer dry thoroughly so that you dont get any shrinking. there is more than one way to skin a cat. this is just how i do it and have amazing results.


i know alot of ppl that do use 400 wet instead of 320 dry though. your call. ive done both and just dont like the wet sanding mess and the paper exchange.

be sure to blow off the car and give it a good bath after your blocking and stuff. it will save alot of hassle as far as trash.

[2Bad4Ya]

BAH, don't sweat it pay 350.00 take it over to forsyth tech and let the dancing monkeys block your car. I know if i had something like a chevelle I would let the flunkies over there do it. i mean who cares its only a chevelle!

[J2SpeedandCustom]

Originally Posted by ragtop396

I'm staring to block the high build, are these steps correct???

- For HighBuild, guidecoat and dry sand up to 400g, putty as needed and redo as needed..
- After Sealer, guidecoat and wet sand 400 - 600g (redo if needed)
- After BC/CC, wet sand 1500-2000g (1000g if bad orange peel or trash); *will i have to sand BC?

I'm just trying to understand what grits to use within each section.

Thanks.

Is there any filler on the body under the primer? What did you sand it out to?

The rule in sanding is to use the lowest grit possible when first sanding to flatten the peaks. Everytime you shoot material the peak are there if you don't get them knocked down the finish will be wavvvvvyyyy.

Using the correct blocks behind the sandpaper is key as well. Hard long blocks at first, then graduating to softer smaller.

Now how many coats of primer are you going to spray? How many coats of clear?

[ragtop396]

J2Speed&Custom - I do have evercoat underneath for the replacement quarter skins. Other than that some minor filler on hood and trunk like. None in the new door skins and fenders. I shot 4 med coats of SEM HB and started block sanding with 120g using a 12" Durablock and Round Durablock for those curved areas like the cowl hood. I will putty the lows but do have some areas where I've hit metal. I plan to shoot another coat or two and resand up to 320g. The last coat will be reduced as a sealer, then wet sanded with 400-600g. I plan to shoot BC (prob 2-4 coats or until properly covered, 2 coats CC, wet sand hood and trunklid, shoot white stripes, then 2 last coats of CC, wet sand, buff, etc....

The only thing I'm not sure of is do I need to keep adding HB to bring the rest of the car up to the high metal spots, or knock em down, putty and reshoot...

This is the one area I'm taking "very" seriously as I want to body STRAIGHT!! I've been working on this car for years and don't want to blow it at the end...


HEY 2BAD4YA, boy don't make me come out to the sticks and put some good ole Chevelle woopa** on ya......

[J2SpeedandCustom]

Originally Posted by ragtop396

J2Speed&Custom - I do have evercoat underneath for the replacement quarter skins. Other than that some minor filler on hood and trunk like. None in the new door skins and fenders. I shot 4 med coats of SEM HB and started block sanding with 120g using a 12" Durablock and Round Durablock for those curved areas like the cowl hood. I will putty the lows but do have some areas where I've hit metal. I plan to shoot another coat or two and resand up to 320g. The last coat will be reduced as a sealer, then wet sanded with 400-600g. I plan to shoot BC (prob 2-4 coats or until properly covered, 2 coats CC, wet sand hood and trunklid, shoot white stripes, then 2 last coats of CC, wet sand, buff, etc....

The only thing I'm not sure of is do I need to keep adding HB to bring the rest of the car up to the high metal spots, or knock em down, putty and reshoot...

This is the one area I'm taking "very" seriously as I want to body STRAIGHT!! I've been working on this car for years and don't want to blow it at the end...


HEY 2BAD4YA, boy don't make me come out to the sticks and put some good ole Chevelle woopa** on ya......

What grit did you sand the plastic filler to? It needs to be sanded to at least 180 or you going to see the scratches in the finish when it soaks out. Any high spots you have need to be hammered/dollied down. The goal is to have no breakthroughs in the primer before you paint. The straighter the metal and body the better the finished result so take your time.

Sounds like a good plan for color and clear with the stripes. Depending on the clear your using you can tape shoot the white and reclear without sanding. And 1 coat of clear is enough to put the stripes on. You'll have better luck not feeling a paint edge with 3 coats of clear versus 2 coats. Also if you want it "straight" the clear is going to need to be sanded with at least 800grit. You'll spend as much time first sanding the clear as you did the primer.

[GM Muscle]

Originally Posted by J2SpeedandCustom

What grit did you sand the plastic filler to? It needs to be sanded to at least 180 or you going to see the scratches in the finish when it soaks out. Any high spots you have need to be hammered/dollied down. The goal is to have no breakthroughs in the primer before you paint. The straighter the metal and body the better the finished result so take your time.

Sounds like a good plan for color and clear with the stripes. Depending on the clear your using you can tape shoot the white and reclear without sanding. And 1 coat of clear is enough to put the stripes on. You'll have better luck not feeling a paint edge with 3 coats of clear versus 2 coats. Also if you want it "straight" the clear is going to need to be sanded with at least 800grit. You'll spend as much time first sanding the clear as you did the primer.

agreed

[ragtop396]

Thanks for the tips; I understand better now....

[ProTouring442]

Originally Posted by J2SpeedandCustom

Also if you want it "straight" the clear is going to need to be sanded with at least 800grit. You'll spend as much time first sanding the clear as you did the primer.

Yes, I always hit the clear with 600 to knock it down first.

Shiny Side Up!
Bill

[skatinjay27]

Originally Posted by ProTouring442

Yes, I always hit the clear with 600 to knock it down first.

Shiny Side Up!
Bill

are you guys saying to do this after your completly done laying paint and clear?
cause my car was full of peel and fish eyes when i got it and have wet sanded some of it with 1500-2000 and the peel and eyes are all out but its doesnt look to straight... is this somthing that can be fixed by wet sanding the clear or is it due to the blocking not being done good?