What is THE secret to a cool car?

[tyoneal]

To All:

I live in Texas and the Humidity is often bad and it is hot 95 degrees + all Summer.

I have a good aluminum Radiator on it with a high output electric fan. The Cowl is tight on the radiator.

The System hold pressure.

The Thermostat does work and is a 195 degree.

I put Vintage Air on it.

I have a Mark VIII Fan for the Car, However it is too big for the current radiator and it cannot be made to seal correctly with the Cowling around the Radiator.

I cannot run the car without it trying to over heat. With the a/c on going down the highway at 60 mph the temp starts slowly creeping up 200, 205, 210, 220 etc. I shut off the a/c and it will go back down to 205, but very slow.

Do I need to run a Pusher fan also over the A/C condenser as well?

This just drives me crazy, and I really want to get it fixed once and for all.

PLEASE, what is the secret???

69 Camaro, 400 Bowtie SBC, 10:1 cr.

Any and ALL ideas gleefully accepted.

At some point I would like to run an LS7 and I damn sure don't ant this typw of problem with a super high dollar engine.

Is it better to run a thinner radiator so a Ton of air can be pulled through it, instead of a thick 4 core?

How do you Under Hood Turbo Guys keep your ride cool?

Thanks,

Sincerely,

Ty O'Neal

[ProTouring442]

First, 220 is not too high for a car equipped with a 195* thermostat. Remember, while a 160*, 170*, or 180* thermostat is fully open at the rated temperature, a 195* thermostat begins to open at 195* but is not fully open until 220*-225* (if I remember correctly).

A car running too hot at speed is not having a fan issue. Your fan is only used at speeds below 10mph or so. When up to speed, try turning the heat on full blast. If this seems to fix the difficulty, you may have too little radiator for the engine.

That having been said, it doesn't sound like a radiator problem as I assume all components are new. What water pump are you running? A serpentine belt system requires a reverse water pump.

Check your timing. A car running retarded will run very hot. This also applies to one running lean.

How much water is in the system? Too much coolant with too little water can run hot. A perfect mix is 50/50.

I hope all of this helps! Just take a look at your cooling system one step at a time and you will figure it out.

Shiny Side Up!
Bill

[68protouring454]

you need a 160 degree t stat, and turn fan on at 175/180, you need to seal the fan to the radiator for sure

[MarkM66]

Does it run hot ideling, and on the highway?

[chevyIIpost]

Another element to consider is air in system. Air will become steam and steam doesn't cool anything. I normally run the engine at 1500 rpm and get the t-stat to open and purge the air out through the radiator fill neck. I have seen the top of the radiator ending up lower than the t-stat housing making it difficult to get all the air out. You will need to run an over flow bottle that lets the system pull coolant from the bottom to keep air out of the system. While running the engine at 1500 rpm and filling it note the water flow. With the stat open it should be a strong flow of water moving in the radiator tank at the fill neck. Also don't forget the heater core can trap air. Make certain the heater is on and the water valve is open to purge the air out of it. Check that the cooling fan is off at highway speeds. I have personally seen an electric cooling fan restrict air flow at road speed and cause the engine to run hot. It is a system and a parts must do there job together. You just have to find the part of the system that is not co-operating. Water flow, Air flow, and system controls(t-stat & fan stat).

[Blown353]

Another thing to consider is the tune. How much timing is the engine running under freeway cruise conditions?

Timing that is too retarded for cruise conditions can put a lot of heat into the engine.

For a Gen 1 SBC, somewhere in the area of 48-54 degrees of timing at light load cruise is usually where the engine will be happy, be the most efficient, and generate the least heat.

Does your distributor have a vacuum advance canister, and is the canister properly tailored to the distributor's advance curve and your engines vacuum characteristics?

If the radiator is clear, the water pump is good, and the thermostat is good, I'm betting on not enough timing.

[HRBS]

Running a water "by-pass" in the manifold is worth 10 degrees. Tap the bosses and bring coolant from the back of the block to the front. Jegs and Summit have these kits and they are relatively inexpensive:
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/51100/10002/-1

I also agree that timing makes a huge difference. A simple 1 or 2 degrees of timing could be worth a good 10 degress cooler running temp.
Where is the AC condensor located ? If its located dead smack in the middle of the radiator, it may be restricting your air flow. Consider moving it to one side leaving the majority of the radiator surface open for air flow.

[Payton King]

number of things. When I had a problem like that my radiator was clogged/bad. Got a new one and never had another problem.

[ccracin]

Another thing to look at is the tubes themselves. If the car has ever overheated to the point it made steam, the cooling tubes may be expanded to the point that air cannot flow through. I have personal experience with this one. Good luck.

[4cefed]

Well id say your first problem is the thermostat is too high. This thing isnt fuel injected is it? Ive never run anything hotter than 180 in a carb'd motor.