Control Arm question - Lateral-g Forums

**Flash68** · #1 01-23-2008, 07:10 PM

Can someone tell me if different brands of control arms (specifically AirRide Strong Arms vs. SpeedTech) installed on the same front setup will cause the wheel/tire combo to stick out further or tuck in more than with the other brand?

We ordered my fronts after much research and communication with other 68 Camaro owners and am pretty sure I nailed the width/BS numbers, but apparently the tire sticks waaay out of the fender too far (like an inch at least). I have Strong Arms now but am wondering if using them caused this. Can the difference be as much as an inch??

I did a search and couldn't find the answer so I posted this.

thanks!

ProdigyCustoms · #2 01-23-2008, 10:22 PM

Put a 24" level on the tire and make sure the top of the tire is leaning in (Negatvie camber) Half to one degree would be something around a 1/2". I can almost bet you have possitive caster right now (tire leaning out at the top).

**darren@ridetech** · #3 01-24-2008, 06:47 AM

The StrongArms are built to factory width.
Frank, don't some of the aftermarket disc brake kits push the wheel out a little?

**Flash68** · #4 01-24-2008, 09:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by darren@ridetech

The StrongArms are built to factory width.
Frank, don't some of the aftermarket disc brake kits push the wheel out a little?

We are using Wilwood 13" rotors on front.

**Flash68** · #5 01-24-2008, 12:39 PM

we feel the wheel maker might have made an error in the dimensions. Probably gonna send back for adjustments.

What's the maximum amount of shims you guys feel good about running for the camber/caster adjustments? 3/8"? 1/2"?

Blake Foster · #6 01-24-2008, 05:30 PM

the shims all depend on the condition of the sub frame, if it has sagged or is bent, our arms are also built to factory widths, it sounds like the wheel off set is wrong, what size and back space wheels do you have?

**marolf101x** · #7 01-24-2008, 06:01 PM

We use whatever shim size it takes to get our measurements (normally 1-degree negative caster, 3-5-degrees camber). We've used shims up to 1/2" with no failures.

**Flash68** · #8 01-24-2008, 06:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by killer69

the shims all depend on the condition of the sub frame, if it has sagged or is bent, our arms are also built to factory widths, it sounds like the wheel off set is wrong, what size and back space wheels do you have?

Well, the subframe shoud be fine. Stock but with reinforced welds everywhere and all straightened out.

We are pretty sure the wheel size is wrong. We ordered a 18x9.5 with a 5.5 BS. I calculated that based on a ton of research and seeing guys make this work on a stock subbed 68 with aftermarket control arms. I know I will lose a little bit of turning radius but not that much to be a prob. Our measurements show the wheel is 1/2 to 1 inch off - like they took an 11 inch well and cut it short instead of taking a 10 and cutting it to 9.5 like we asked. We are sending it back now.

Front tire size is 275/35/18 FYI.

thanks

**Flash68** · #9 01-24-2008, 06:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by marolf101x

We use whatever shim size it takes to get our measurements (normally 1-degree negative caster, 3-5-degrees camber). We've used shims up to 1/2" with no failures.

1/2" is about the most we were thinking (and have heard).

thanks

ProdigyCustoms · #10 01-25-2008, 03:15 AM

Your WAY off. First off fitting the 9 1/2 up front, good luck. But no matter what size you decide, on the front wheel, you need to deduct 3.25 or 3.00 inches from the wheel measurement to get your outside location correct. So in simple math, if you run a 8" wheel, you need a 4.75 to 5.00 backspace. If you run a 8.5" wheel, you need a 5.25 to 5.5 backspace. If you only want to go straight and not turn, usinf a 9.5 wheel, you would need a 6.25 to 6.5 backspace.