CEL, GMPP harness for LS3

[DT69Cam]

Originally Posted by dhutton

This Bosch 12V 30A relay has a coil current of 160 mA which is a lot more than an LED.

http://www.texasindustrialelectric.c...0332209150.asp

I will dig around and see if I can find the CEL current capability.

Don

Thanks Don !!!! So the Bosch relay may work ??

[dhutton]

Originally Posted by DT69Cam

Thanks Don !!!! So the Bosch relay may work ??

No I think it requires considerably more current than an LED and as such it may not be able to sink enough current to turn the relay on.

This is all I could find regarding MIL current capacity:

This circuit requires any 12v low current light and an ignition 12v power source. The ECM MIL output supplies the ground for the circuit.

I am not sure that 160 mA would be considered a low current light.

Looks like all you can do is try it and see if it works. Sorry I could not be of more help other than raising questions.

Don

[DT69Cam]

Originally Posted by dhutton

No I think it requires considerably more current than an LED and as such it may not be able to sink enough current to turn the relay on.

This is all I could find regarding MIL current capacity:

This circuit requires any 12v low current light and an ignition 12v power source. The ECM MIL output supplies the ground for the circuit.

I am not sure that 160 mA would be considered a low current light.

Looks like all you can do is try it and see if it works. Sorry I could not be of more help other than raising questions.

Don

Hey, thank you very much !!! FYI Don, I'm also over on Team Camaro. I asked the same questions over there LOL. Thx again.

[dhutton]

How about this little solid state relay? If I am reading it right you can use a positive or negative trigger. Just connect the negative trigger input to the MIL signal and add a 4.7kohm pull-up resistor to 12V. Then use the relay as you had planned.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-Channel-SS...QAAOSw4SlV8f4-

Don

[randy]

why can't you just give the light constant power and hook the ground to the check engine light wire? Thats what i did

[130fe]

Don, just curious. The picture I saw on New Vintage's website showed a CEL in the right side gauge. Why not use the one already built in? Are you 100% sure that the CEL requires the POS signal? Just seems weird that the industry standard is a Neg signal from the PCM and New Vintage is totally different. Just seems like alot of trouble to go through for the light to work.


http://www.newvintageusa.com/images/69-set-lit.jpg

[DT69Cam]

Originally Posted by 130fe

Don, just curious. The picture I saw on New Vintage's website showed a CEL in the right side gauge. Why not use the one already built in? Are you 100% sure that the CEL requires the POS signal? Just seems weird that the industry standard is a Neg signal from the PCM and New Vintage is totally different. Just seems like alot of trouble to go through for the light to work.


http://www.newvintageusa.com/images/69-set-lit.jpg

Yep, that's the one. It calls for 12V positive.

[dhutton]

Originally Posted by 130fe

Don, just curious. The picture I saw on New Vintage's website showed a CEL in the right side gauge. Why not use the one already built in? Are you 100% sure that the CEL requires the POS signal? Just seems weird that the industry standard is a Neg signal from the PCM and New Vintage is totally different. Just seems like alot of trouble to go through for the light to work.


http://www.newvintageusa.com/images/69-set-lit.jpg

For whatever reason the gauge wants a positive drive for all the indicators. Both LED pins are not brought out, only the positive side as far as I know. Why they didn't do their homework is a bit of a mystery. There may even be a controller between the input signals and the LED's.

Don

[dhutton]

Originally Posted by randy

why can't you just give the light constant power and hook the ground to the check engine light wire? Thats what i did

Because you don't have access to both LED pins.

Don