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Old 05-06-2015, 03:23 AM
atomicjoe23 atomicjoe23 is offline
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Default Thread in wheel studs and Kore3 Brakes???

Is anyone using the thread-in 1/2"-20 ARP wheel studs with their Kore3 Big Brake kits (or just using them period)?

If so, have you had any issue with the stud loosening when installing/tightening/torqueing the lug nuts?

I've ordered my Kore3 GMSS 325mm C6 big brake kit and I opted to upgrade to the thread-in ARP 1/2"-20 wheel studs for the hubs. . .I chose the 1/2"-20 thread-in studs because they were the largest diameter studs for the hubs.

Now I'm getting ready to machine bolt-on wheel spacers for my C4 ZR-1 wheels and I'm wondering if I want to use thread-in wheel studs or press-in studs for the wheel/spacer assembly. . .just curious if anyone has had any issues with these thread-in studs. . .

Thanks!
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Old 05-06-2015, 03:25 AM
HELLCAMINO HELLCAMINO is offline
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I have them in my Chevelle's rear and no issues with them coming loose. They need torqued to specs and that's it. I am running LS1 Camaro rear disc as well.
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Old 05-06-2015, 03:30 AM
atomicjoe23 atomicjoe23 is offline
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Hellcamino how long have you had them on?

I guess I should add that I'm building my car mainly for track (Auto-X and road course) use. . .
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'67 Pontiac Firebird 400 RA coupe
http://www.pro-touring.com/forum/showthread.php?t=26557

'97 Chevy Camaro 3.8/M5 coupe
'02 Yamaha R1
'01 Aprilia RS50
'00 Yamaha R6
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Old 05-06-2015, 05:48 PM
WSSix WSSix is offline
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I have Kore3 billet hubs and screw in studs on the front of my TA. You just need the studs to be torqued enough that they won't back out when you screw the lug nuts on. You should be using a lubricant with the lug nuts. It doesn't take a lot of torque to keep the studs in place.

As for screw in versus press in studs on the adapters, I have press in on my adapters. I only have a 3/4" adapter on all four corners. There's not enough meat there to have recessed screw in studs. I would check with ARP about how much thread you need to have to be safe. A general rule of thumb is to have as much thread as you have diameter. You may need more than that in this case though.

Good luck.
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Old 05-06-2015, 06:30 PM
atomicjoe23 atomicjoe23 is offline
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Thanks WSSix. . .I don't have to worry about an adequate number of threads; my front spacers are going to be ~1.7" thick and the rears will be ~2" thick (I won't know for sure until my stuff arrives from Kore3. . .these are based off of best guess numbers compared to what others are running on first-gen F-bodies with the same wheels I have).

The spacers are thick because I have high-offset wheels (C4 ZR-1 5-spokes) going on a '67 Firebird 400 coupe; when I spoke with Kore3 on the phone these dimensions were pretty close to what they ended up needing to run on their Nova. . .
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'67 Pontiac Firebird 400 RA coupe
http://www.pro-touring.com/forum/showthread.php?t=26557

'97 Chevy Camaro 3.8/M5 coupe
'02 Yamaha R1
'01 Aprilia RS50
'00 Yamaha R6
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Old 05-06-2015, 09:37 PM
HELLCAMINO HELLCAMINO is offline
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I had mine in for years when my car was set up for drag use. Now I am set up to run autocross and have raced it 4 times this year so far and all is good.
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Old 05-06-2015, 09:45 PM
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Sieg Sieg is offline
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I've been running their aluminum hub with ARP studs for 4+ years now. No issues, as noted they need to be properly torqued and I use nickel anti-seize on the lug nut portion of thread. I torque my lugs to 95 lb ft and use an impact for removal.

Kore 3's instructions included with their kit's are very thorough.
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