GT 500 engine conversion - Page 2 - Lateral-g Forums

Mathi · #11 03-02-2013, 07:40 AM

There is only thing that makes me a little insecure and that's the mileage... I have now a 427R brandnew (only 100 miles old) and I would chance that for a modern GT 500 engine with an aftermarket blower and already 32 000 miles on it... Is that a good idea? Is it not better to look for one with less mileage?

What do you think?

ivmotor · #12 03-03-2013, 08:58 PM

That is always an issue. You won't know if those miles were spent at the track or with a retired widow going to the grocery store. I like that it comes with the stuff for a changeover. Maybe you should have the sellers pull the oil pan and document any debris, or at least show if there is sludge under the valve cover.

Mathi · #13 03-04-2013, 12:04 AM

Yeah, and to be honest, price is okay... If you see what you get is it almost everything for the conversion. But on the other way, it's true, I don't know where the miles were spent...
I guess I'm going to ask the seller some details about the engine...

how much difference of weight is it with the aluminium engine from newer models?

Regards

p51mus · #14 03-04-2013, 01:05 AM

By the time you get finished, you will have spent enough to buy a very low mileage Stage-3 Roush, GT-500. I realize you probably have your heart set on doing this, but unless you have alot of build experience, you are gonna be one unhappy, frustrated person. Go to SVT Performance and look at all the supercharged GT Stangs, 500's Roushes etc. that are for sale, and there are some dang good deals there.

Mathi · #15 03-04-2013, 07:34 AM

Hi,

Thanks man! You really helped me out. There is plenty of parts offered on that forum.
I'm thinking to do the conversion in the USA. It's to difficult here in Belgium to find people who can know those engines (and wiring)

**Matt@BOS** · #16 03-04-2013, 09:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mathi

Yeah, and to be honest, price is okay... If you see what you get is it almost everything for the conversion. But on the other way, it's true, I don't know where the miles were spent...
I guess I'm going to ask the seller some details about the engine...

how much difference of weight is it with the aluminium engine from newer models?

Regards

The aluminum engines are a little over 100 lbs lighter than their iron block equivalents. So you are looking at around 570lbs instead of 670lbs (shipping weight on the iron block crate engines was about 720lbs).

You do realize by the time you get done changing the fuel system, replumbing, changing the radiator, building and routing an intercooler, building a custom hood, and making a front drive system to work, not to mention all the little stuff like changing front springs, etc that you will have 40-50k USD in the car, right?

If you are really dead set on this, I may be able to get you a 2011 aluminum block engine with less than a hundred miles on it.

Mathi · #17 03-07-2013, 12:31 AM

Yes, I know it's not bolt on... But it's the end result which is important so I will give it a try.
I'm looking for a whole drivetrain from a wrecked car or something like that ... From engine till fuel tank with pumps and stuff...
So: pedals, sensors, wiring, ecu, engine, transmission, clutch, sensors, fuel pumps,etc ....