OMG its tight under here????? - Lateral-g Forums

aany001 · #1 10-18-2012, 05:49 PM

Just tried mocking up my Vintage air gen 1 (cable operated) case assembly under the dash in my 69 camaro with a DSE firewall plate and the stacked 4 pass through bulk head and its gonna be a disaster to plump under there!!!!!!!!!!

Anyone shed some light here? Also what do I do for the existing mounting hole that they want u to use that is now gone? Also what hole do I use on furthest bracket on pass side on the fresh air cover? I had to move the whole unit about 3 inches to the drivers side just to make room for the lines. Help Help!!

XLexusTech · #2 10-18-2012, 05:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by aany001

Just tried mocking up my Vintage air gen 1 (cable operated) case assembly under the dash in my 69 camaro with a DSE firewall plate and the stacked 4 pass through bulk head and its gonna be a disaster to plump under there!!!!!!!!!!

Anyone shed some light here? Also what do I do for the existing mounting hole that they want u to use that is now gone? Also what hole do I use on furthest bracket on pass side on the fresh air cover? I had to move the whole unit about 3 inches to the drivers side just to make room for the lines. Help Help!!

Are you using the DSE bracket or out of the box vintage air?

aany001 · #3 10-18-2012, 06:13 PM

using the vintage air brackets why?

Bsinclair · #4 10-18-2012, 08:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by aany001

using the vintage air brackets why?

i was told this mount makes the fit better but ive never used one...

http://www.detroitspeed.com/1967-196...mgnm-brkt.html

i just ordered my kit today for the 68 we are building but spec'd it out just like the 48hr camaro with a ez clip fenderwell hose kit and a upgraded controller. with the ez clip hose it allows for tighter bends and is alot smaller in diameter. it also allows you to run the hose where you want it and then install the ftgs.

aany001 · #5 10-20-2012, 08:16 AM

Can anyone else shed some light on this? Theres gotta be some of u running the cable operated system.

XLexusTech · #6 10-20-2012, 09:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by aany001

Can anyone else shed some light on this? Theres gotta be some of u running the cable operated system.

yes the DSE bracket or a DIY one is the way to go... the vinage air suggested mounting is pretty tough

EBMC · #7 10-20-2012, 09:17 PM

Alot of times It is easier and cheaper not using the bulkhead fitting. Use grommets and pass the hoses through a plate where the blower motor was after all connections are made.Less connections to leak as well.

RickM415 · #8 10-20-2012, 10:24 PM

i think the problem is that the cable operated vintage air setup runs the lines from the evap unit facing the firewall ...and it usually ships with a round cover leaving no room to really route hoses without moving the unit away from the firewall

aany001 · #9 01-20-2013, 01:55 PM

Actually my unit runs all 4 lines towards the passenger kick panel and not straight through the firewall towards the front of the car. Does anyone have any install pics of under the dash especially the mounting points on the car they used. Im working on a 69 camaro with a gen 1 cable operated system.
Thanks guys

RBuhr69 · #10 01-20-2013, 03:35 PM

I just installed my Gen IV in a 69, ran the hoses through the top of the kick panel vent opening out and and through the round hole under the fender using rubber grommets. It gets tight under there for sure...

I also used the DSE bracket to mount the evaporator (highly recommended) and DSE firewall panel to complete the install.

Got it all charged up today but having trouble with the VA controller. Sometimes it runs wide open and other times it works correctly for the fan setting hi-low-off. I can have it all the way to left for OFF, but the fan can be running wide open. I can push on the dial and it will stop the fan from running. I can only assume there is a pin messed up but looking at it on the unit and the harness they are all good and straight...

There is only a few wires to hookup, 2 white wires from each harness to the negative on the battery and another white wire for the ground on the heater valve actuator, 1 red to the positive on the battery and one vilot wire to the acc switch, green to heater valve actuator, and blue to the binary switch....So I;m pretty sure it is wired up correctly..Negative on battery terminal is bolted to fendor of car for grounding...

Dont know.. Guess I will call VA in the morning unless someone knows something like this...