Hydratech vs ABS Electric vs Manual Brakes

[SuperB70]

Hi Scott! Doing alright.
Somebody was to do it, right Jep, lot of snow and cold. Today weather feels like spring, only -15c/5f.
Bill, There is in my garage one '67 camaro convertible PT car under build. (Not mine!) it has willwoods all around and a hydrobooster w/willwood mastercylinder. Owner how is a good friend of mine wants me to convert it to electric booster and put it behind firewall.

Also I have to relocate the wipermotor cos this electronic controlled 8 stack injected stroked big block takes it space away.

I dont have any pic on my computer put I can go to my friends garage near by and take a picture for the unit we are using.
It is a ABS unit out of GEN 2 ('90es)Ford Sierra Cosworth 2wd. I think in US you dont have these legends.

Wikipedia:
Sierra RS Cosworth

[SuperB70]

Okey, I went to my friends garage to take pics but the rallycar is in another garage 200Ml away.
He had one Sierra in ,it has that same unit but it has an 5.0 V8TT engine ( possibly the only one street legally in here) in that so it was off limits to get any spyphotos.

but got a lesson how to do it:

You need:

Two (2) single hydralic cylinder, like clutch slave cylinder. He used Mersedes 123 body cylinders with separate reservoids.

One (1) ABS-unit from almost any car.
Holds: brakefluid reservoid, electric pressurepump,
pressure accumalator, pressure switch and ABS-brakediverter/valveblock.
(thats that block where all brake lines to wheels leave)

ABS-control computer is not needed. But with this you can put ABS-brakes to your hotrod, just add wheelsensors and wires.

So: Replace hydro/mastercylinder with one the (slave)cylinder (straight to the firewall or behind it) and from that a hard line to secont (slave)cylinder( this can be behind firewall, tuck inside the fender,in the trunk or almost anywhere in the car) You just need to fab a sturdy bracket that holds a(slave) cylinder and the ABS-unit together against each other so that (slave) cylinders piston push rod is the ABS-unit push rod, working together back and forth.

Electrical connections are simple, (normal 4 wire closing) relay controlled, plus, ground and control wire from ABS-units pressure switch to switch pump on and off, also brakefluid reservoir has level sensor, that is good to connect to some small led-warning light.

Brakelines are connected to ABS-units original places, usually two to front brakes and one back.

Just make sure that you are able to check brakefluid level and chance it with out any big disassembly.

here is link to Ford unit remove and refitting. There is good picture to see all components.

I hope this has opened something to atleast someone but feel free to ask if not and sorry to make it so long but please try to explane something with another Language.

,Juhani

p.s also find out that megaquirt has release seqvental injection for 10 cylinders and I get to modified his intercooler for that TT V8 engine.

[ProTouring442]

Originally Posted by SuperB70

I hope this has opened something to atleast someone but feel free to ask if not and sorry to make it so long but please try to explane something with another Language.

,Juhani

Thank you very much for the information! As for your English, don't worry one bit, I think you do very well!

Shiny Side Up!
Bill

[wmhjr]

OK, back to the original channel. BTW - when I said "ABS Electric Brakes" I was talking about the company named "ABS". Not Anti-lock brakes. I have no desire to add antilock brakes.

Anyway, I measured front/rear line pressure today. Front goes to about 1400lbs, and 1000-1100lbs is very easy to produce. Rear was originally about 500, as I had believed unscrewing the prop valve would increase rear pressure by opening the line, only to discover it's the opposite. Now it's 1100lbs.