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  #1  
Old 01-10-2010, 09:17 AM
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Default Help-harmonicdamper removal?

Hi!

Need to remove my harmonicdamper on my CCB 396 but it wont move! I have the Performance Tools removal tool but one of the bolt snapped and the damper did not move at all.

Any ideas? Need help!



Thanks.
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  #2  
Old 01-10-2010, 09:45 AM
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Can you post a pic of the tool and how you're using it?


Three bots in the balancer, and impact the center threaded rod, pops it right off.
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Old 01-10-2010, 09:48 AM
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a pic would help a lot. You did remove the bolt/washer in the middle of the balancer that holds it to the crank, right?

Jody
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Old 01-10-2010, 11:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkM66 View Post
Can you post a pic of the tool and how you're using it?


Three bots in the balancer, and impact the center threaded rod, pops it right off.
I use this tool. Se picture. The balancer have a 4 hole-pattern in it so i use two bolts.
I have tried to give the threaded rod in the middle a wack but without any luck. How much force can i use?

And yes, i have removed the center-bolt on the crank!

Mikael
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Old 01-10-2010, 12:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CamaroGbg View Post
I use this tool. Se picture. The balancer have a 4 hole-pattern in it so i use two bolts.
I have tried to give the threaded rod in the middle a wack but without any luck. How much force can i use?

And yes, i have removed the center-bolt on the crank!

Mikael
your balancer should have three bolts, never seen one with four. That way you use all three in a "Y" pattern. If it's real tight it's gonna be tough if you can only use two. Use grade 8 bolts also, and you may have to heat the balancer some with a propane torch or similar to get it to expand a bit, just don't burn the rubber seal.

PS: whacking the center bolt will not help remove the pulley, just tries to push the crank out of the block..........

Jody
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Shannon at Modo Innovations for the cool billet DBW bracket
Roadster Shop for their Chevelle SPEC Chassis
Dakota Digital for their Chevelle HDX Gauge Package
Painless Performance for their wiring harness

Ron Davis Radiators for their radiator and fan assembly.
Baer Brakes for their front and rear brakes

Texas Speed and Performance for their 427 LS Stroker
American Powertrain for their ProFit Magnum T56 kit
Currie Enterprises for their 9" Third Member
Forgeline for their GF3 Wheels
McLeod Racing for their RXT street twin clutch
Ididit for their steering column
Holley for their EFI and engine parts
Lokar and Clayton Machine for their pedals and door and window handles
Morris Classic Concepts for their 3 point belts and side mirrors
Thermotec for their heat sleeve and sound deadening products
Restomod Air for their Tru Mod A/C kit
Mightymouse Solutions for their catch can
Magnaflow for their 3" exhaust system
Aeromotive for their dual Phantom fuel system
Vintage Air for their new Mid Mount LS front drive
Hydratech Braking for their hydroboost system
Borgeson for their stainless steering shaft and u joints
Eddie Motorsports for their hood and trunk hinges and misc parts
TMI Products for their seats, door panels, and dash pad
Rock Valley Antique Auto Parts for their stainless fuel tank
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  #6  
Old 01-12-2010, 11:58 AM
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big blocks have a great big 3/8 inch thick washer... its been known to have been left on while trying to pull the balancer..

just make sure there isnt two on or somthing, it can very well be "glued" in there with RTV sealer to keep oil from leaking (whoever assembled your engine could have done all sorts of wierd things)
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Old 01-12-2010, 12:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deuce_454 View Post
big blocks have a great big 3/8 inch thick washer... its been known to have been left on while trying to pull the balancer..

just make sure there isnt two on or somthing, it can very well be "glued" in there with RTV sealer to keep oil from leaking (whoever assembled your engine could have done all sorts of wierd things)
Good point on the washer. The BBC I picked up for my project (that was garbage) had two of those on it. The "bottom"(closest to balancer face) one was VERY hard to get out. I used a ton of solvent and soaked the area for a couple of days, it came loose after that and some heat. (carefull with the heat and solvent fumes, makes real pretty light show... )
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  #8  
Old 01-12-2010, 01:23 PM
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The PROPER puller is a BALANCER PULLER / INSTALLER...

Mine is from Comp Cams - but I'm sure they just "market" it.

My local SCHUCKS will allow you to RENT any tool they sell - if you decide to keep it fine - just don't bring it back and it's yours - if you bring it back there's a small charge for the rental.

I would suggest you NOT try to use a "steering wheel puller" (which is what you showed) on a Crank Balancer...
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