removing crank pulley on LS1 - Lateral-g Forums

almcbri · #1 10-16-2009, 05:58 PM

I got everything tore down this afternoon but I couldn't get the pulley off. Is it clockwise to pull to pulley off, or counter clock-wise?

Its a 24mm socket and I read it is installed at 100 lbs. but it wouldn't move. Maybe I am going the wrong direction! If anyone knows this please let me know!

side note: the engine is really clean and I believe I got a good motor. I am going to blast the small parts tommorow and repaint them and hopefully finish the install by the end of this weekend while everything is fresh on my mind. I will be swapping a cam after I do a little research on which one to use as well.

carkrazy1987 · #2 10-16-2009, 06:24 PM

counter clock wise like a reg bolt. theyre on there pretty good get a breaker bar, jam the flywheel, and get a good cheater bar on the breaker bar. put all your might into it, it will come off. the use a 3 jaw puller to take it off

gearheads78 · #3 10-16-2009, 08:24 PM

Also it a one time use torque to yield bolt. Throw it away and get a new one.

**GregWeld** · #4 10-17-2009, 05:11 AM

I think the factory bolt is torqued to 140 ftlbs and then Clocked to 5 o'clock (thinking of a clock here with 12 at the top)... it's called a TTY (Torque To Yield) bolt... use once - toss it.

.... and you know why they call that thing a BREAKER bar??

Watch your knuckles!!

**GregWeld** · #5 10-17-2009, 01:31 PM

PS --

Righty tighty - lefty loosey...

WILWAXU · #6 10-18-2009, 09:03 AM

Here's some info:

Quote:

Originally Posted by LS1HowTo.com

On a 6 speed car, put the shifter in 4th gear and make sure the parking brake is on tight. On an A4 car, you'll need to drop the starter and either install the flywheel locking tool or wedge a screwdriver in. The starter is held in by 2 13mm bolts for 99+ models or 2 15mm bolts for 98 models and is on the bottom rear passenger side of the engine. You can leave the wires attached.

Once the engine is locked down from spinning, use your large breaker bar, a 3" extension and a 24mm socket on the crankshaft pulley bolt that goes directly into the crank through the center of the large pulley. You may need a 2-3 foot extension of pipe to slip over your wrench to break this bolt free. Once its broken free, you should be able to unscrew it by hand. Once the bolt is out, either thread it back in 4 full turns, or if you purchased a 1" longer metric crank bolt, install it all the way at this time. Now install your 3 arm pulley puller, mounting the hooks of the three arms on the inner part of the stock pulley. If you already have an underdrive pulley on there, either pull it off using a 3 screw type puller, or be VERY careful and grab onto a lip of the underdrive pulley (on the fbody ASP pulley there is a ridge half way back that can be pulled on safely with a 3 arm puller). Keeping the pulley puller arms all secure and aligned, begin to tighten the bolt on the puller and crank on it until the pulley either comes loose, or hits the head of your crank bolt. If it hits the head of your crankbolt, loosen the pulley puller, unturn the bolt 1-2 turns, and re-try it again. The key when you back your crank bolt out more, you are putting MORE stress on less and less of the threads...however, towards the end of pulley removal it will come off easier and easier so the stress isn't enough to damage the crankshaft threads.

If you get the pulley as far off as it'll come without totally removing the crankbolt and the pulley is still firmly on there, give it a good tug or a tap with a rubber mallet...it should be hanging on by just a hair at this point. If you have the longer crank bolt, this won't be an issue.

almcbri · #7 10-18-2009, 07:03 PM

Thanks for the info. I got it pulled an hour or so after my post. I just wanted to ask questions before to make sure I wasn't messing anything up. I am not an engine guy at all, but I appreciate the tip on right tighty lefty loosey. lol

I got all the misc. parts blasted and shot a coat of etching primer on them this morning. The motor is back together minus wiring harness and I was pleased to see that it was spotless. I think I got a good motor.
My wife helped me the entire weekend with scrubbing the block and getting all the parts back to looking new again.

My next step is to find a good cam to swap in, change the plugs, send off the harness and install motor mounts and new oil pan and she should be ready to go. I am now on the hunt for a T56 and then I will have my powerplant ready to go. Still a ways off with the car. The front sheetmetal needs to be aligned, blown back apart,painted and reassembly. Hopefully this time next year I will be finished with the car.