Camaro LT5

[Stielow]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190603/251ee2fd817c297498f96ab936cf7cef.jpg

Here we go again..... Another 1969 Camaro California Black plate all original sheet metal donar Car.


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[Stielow]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190603/3286bd2ade12ffeb2ba1b98c194e5c7f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190603/2c3f674acf0ccf87436e67b5dee0fbde.jpg

So far nice solid car.


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[Stielow]

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[Stielow]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190603/28c4107d15b87a79007eeb611bfe1f6c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190603/a7945b51d4e2d09903cea32ec634bd51.jpg

Got to have an LT5 and BIG Brembo brakes.


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[Stielow]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190603/aa94d4dec3d1d223fb626a5796e53592.jpg

This should be a cool build. Love the GM crate motors. I’m going to lean on this one a bit because I know we can make 900 hp easy.


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[jeff71]

Plan to have it ready for SEMA?

[Stielow]

Plan to have it ready for SEMA?



2020


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[WSSix]

Very cool. I had no idea the LT5 existed. Good luck with the build, Mark.

What color are you planning? If you care to share at this point that is.

[MtotheIKEo]

Have DSE made any revisions to their subframe over the years? I know you have used them continually, is the subframe in this build the same as what was in the car 4 builds ago?

[NAPA 68]

Very cool. I had no idea the LT5 existed. Good luck with the build, Mark.

What color are you planning? If you care to share at this point that is.

X twooooo

[214Chevy]

I'm tuned in....

[will69camaro]

Can’t wait to see how this one turns out!

[1965_SS]

Very awesome! I was at SEMA last November and saw that engine there, being offered as a crate package.............can't wait to see the progress of this build!

[Frankenstine]

Sweet starting point Mark, Subscribed to this one for Shure :thumbsup::gitrdun:

[Stielow]

Have DSE made any revisions to their subframe over the years? I know you have used them continually, is the subframe in this build the same as what was in the car 4 builds ago?

They have changed the following

New aluminum knuckles. DSE has their own forging now

Redesigned the front sway bar bushing by adding a collar of rubber to eliminate sway bar clunk

Redesigned the sway bar arm to go to a forging

DSE made their own rack

I've never had an issue with one. They work great.

Mark

[fleetus macmullitz]

Now we just need another Streetking build here ..now that thankfully Camaroking is back with this droolworthy project. :cool:

[Musclerodz]

Now we just need another Streetking build here ..now that thankfully Camaroking is back with this droolworthy project. :cool:

He recently bought Chris Kinker's Camaro that dutchboys built and then had them duplicate his old black 69 out of it.

[fleetus macmullitz]

He recently bought Chris Kinker's Camaro that dutchboys built and then had them duplicate his old black 69 out of it.

Thanks, I remember seeing that one. :thumbsup:

Still need more....lol

[OLDFLM]

We need (WANT) Mark to do a 70-73 F-body!

[will69camaro]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190603/a7945b51d4e2d09903cea32ec634bd51.jpg

Got to have an LT5 and BIG Brembo brakes.


Tried to send a message but box is full again. Can you go into some detail on how the C6 ZR1 caliper and ZL1 rotor worked together? I know on IG you said a custom rotor hat but i'd like to hear as much detail as possible. I'm wanting to eventually get out of the wilwoods on my car and move to something more OEM quality.

[SSLance]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190603/251ee2fd817c297498f96ab936cf7cef.jpg


Is it wrong that I clued in on the G Body next the subject Camaro first? :D

Cause if it is, I don't want to be right. :lostmarbles:

[69hugger]

He recently bought Chris Kinker's Camaro that dutchboys built and then had them duplicate his old black 69 out of it.



I prefer "original" to "old". But I'm biased! :lol:

[ScotI]

Is it wrong that I clued in on the G Body next the subject Camaro first? :D

Cause if it is, I don't want to be right. :lostmarbles:

Variety is the spice of life right?? I like them all....

[Stielow]

Tried to send a message but box is full again. Can you go into some detail on how the C6 ZR1 caliper and ZL1 rotor worked together? I know on IG you said a custom rotor hat but i'd like to hear as much detail as possible. I'm wanting to eventually get out of the wilwoods on my car and move to something more OEM quality.



There is a bit of a story. I love the Carbon Ceramic brake set up on the C6 ZR1, but they require a lot of brake cooling to work correctly. I did that on Hellfire and they work great. I did not do that on Jackass and they would get too hot.

To get better brake performance with out all the extra complexity of big cooling ducts you can add Thermal Mass (Iron Rotors).

I wanted to swap the Carbon Rotors on Jackass to Iron. The new CTS-V and ZL1 use a 390 mm iron rotor that is the same thickness as a 393 mm Carbon Ceramic rotor. The 3 mm delta is taken up by the pad.

OK easy I’ll swap the 390 mm iron rotors on Jackass. Issue is the offset on the CTS-V and ZL1 hat is different. No problem I have friends with CNC machining centers that make gun parts. I was informed the tolerances on my brake hats are tighter then gun parts.

So I got some ZL1 Rotors and added my custom hats.

To recap. Stock C6 ZR1 calipers, 390 mm Gen 6 ZL1 Rotors and custom hats. The ZR1 calipers use the same brake pad shape for Carbon Ceramic and Iron Rotors.

I had all this stuff laying around so I’m going to try it.

It will be easier to buy a Brembo kit.

Mark


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[CRCRFT78]

I also noticed the Grand Prix. Looks like the one Holley was building a couple of years ago.

[OLDFLM]

fwiw I noticed the 1st gen Firebird to the left... :goggles:

I went with KORE3 brakes on my car for the OEM reasons stated above.

Any chance of a production run of modified ZL1 rotor hats in the future should these prove your theory Mark?

[clill]

At least we know he will have to paint this one.:G-Dub:

[Sieg]

At least we know he will have to paint this one.:G-Dub:

……or wrap it. :secret:

Saves weight and :G-Dub:

[OLDFLM]

At least we know he will have to paint this one.:G-Dub:

Leave it like it is Charley... some guy has an old 40 Ford truck in primer grey that people seem to like a lot... black epoxy could be the new grey!

:stirthepot:

[JMitch19]

subscribed

[jason]

Looking forward to see the progress on this build. I'm sure it will be outstanding as usual. Any photos of the mini tub by chance?

[Stielow]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190610/f6105c5137d2839d7e62233c06ec5925.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190610/17ea9b03ff41ae72f1e461299afdb8c5.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190610/0ccf9f325fbf8b144e8cc7abbc28c4c8.jpg

I just got my Finspeed wheels for mock up and my Spring Car Party.

I like the new design!

Mark


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[Stielow]

fwiw I noticed the 1st gen Firebird to the left... :goggles:



I went with KORE3 brakes on my car for the OEM reasons stated above.



Any chance of a production run of modified ZL1 rotor hats in the future should these prove your theory Mark?



Yes I’ll get a chance to test this next year.


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[bulldog19]

Looking Good! Man those front brakes are huge!

[Stielow]

Looking Good! Man those front brakes are huge!

Yes and I will still need to add brake cooling ducts. With my projected power I'm sure it will need it.

Mark

[DWC]

Those wheels look great. Holy crap, those rotors are massive!

Daniel

[vdrivinmike]

LOVE the non-Forgeline set up! (Nothing against Forgeline - just awesome to see something new.)

And it looks painted to me!

[JD67SS]

So when exactly did the guys at Sled Alley start on this?
Seems like they’re makin’ hay if it was just last week...

JD

[Che70velle]

Glad to see another Camaro from you Mark. I loved the blazer you just did for an all day/everyday driver. 900 is amazing from a crate. That raises the bar again in itself. Appreciate all your contributions to the site and you taking the time to post this for us.
And I spotted the GrandPrix quickly as well. My mom bought one new in 84’. It was an awful nice car at that time.

[jwillia2]

Very great info on the brakes your a world of info. What Diff are you going to run in this car? I just had one go with 700 miles on it and I know you beat on your cars. Ford 9 from DSE and a eaton its DONE! I didn't even get to work on it. Found broken parts and a washer in the bottom. Cant wait to see this LT5 push this car around the track .






There is a bit of a story. I love the Carbon Ceramic brake set up on the C6 ZR1, but they require a lot of brake cooling to work correctly. I did that on Hellfire and they work great. I did not do that on Jackass and they would get too hot.

To get better brake performance with out all the extra complexity of big cooling ducts you can add Thermal Mass (Iron Rotors).

I wanted to swap the Carbon Rotors on Jackass to Iron. The new CTS-V and ZL1 use a 390 mm iron rotor that is the same thickness as a 393 mm Carbon Ceramic rotor. The 3 mm delta is taken up by the pad.

OK easy I’ll swap the 390 mm iron rotors on Jackass. Issue is the offset on the CTS-V and ZL1 hat is different. No problem I have friends with CNC machining centers that make gun parts. I was informed the tolerances on my brake hats are tighter then gun parts.

So I got some ZL1 Rotors and added my custom hats.

To recap. Stock C6 ZR1 calipers, 390 mm Gen 6 ZL1 Rotors and custom hats. The ZR1 calipers use the same brake pad shape for Carbon Ceramic and Iron Rotors.

I had all this stuff laying around so I’m going to try it.

It will be easier to buy a Brembo kit.

Mark


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[Stielow]

Very great info on the brakes your a world of info. What Diff are you going to run in this car? I just had one go with 700 miles on it and I know you beat on your cars. Ford 9 from DSE and a eaton its DONE! I didn't even get to work on it. Found broken parts and a washer in the bottom. Cant wait to see this LT5 push this car around the track .

Ford 9 inch gears are my nemesis. I have lost track of how many sets I have failed in my life. I do not think it is the fault of the diff assemblers. My data shows it is poor gear manufacturing. I attempt to use real Ford gears and they seem to be the quietest and most durable. Occasionally you will get a good aftermarket set of gears. I found out that most gear suppliers set up there tooling / gear grinding and let it run until it is way out of tolerance. So if you get an "Early" set they may be good and if you get one of the last ones they maybe bad.

US Gear is going to make some "Stealth Gear" that are suppose to be more to OE tolerances. My buddy has a set to test on how quite they using some "real" measuring equipment. (An actual engineering test).

I hope they are good and stay good. Our community needs a better solution than digging though junk yards to find usable old Ford gears to get a quite gear set.

Mark

[will69camaro]

Ford 9 inch gears are my nemesis. I have lost track of how many sets I have failed in my life. I do not think it is the fault of the diff assemblers. My data shows it is poor gear manufacturing. I attempt to use real Ford gears and they seem to be the quietest and most durable. Occasionally you will get a good aftermarket set of gears. I found out that most gear suppliers set up there tooling / gear grinding and let it run until it is way out of tolerance. So if you get an "Early" set they may be good and if you get one of the last ones they maybe bad.

US Gear is going to make some "Stealth Gear" that are suppose to be more to OE tolerances. My buddy has a set to test on how quite they using some "real" measuring equipment. (An actual engineering test).

I hope they are good and stay good. Our community needs a better solution than digging though junk yards to find usable old Ford gears to get a quite gear set.

Mark

Glad to see this. Thought it was just my set that is loud. It’s surviving for now but for how long I don’t know.

[Stielow]

Glad to see this. Thought it was just my set that is loud. It’s surviving for now but for how long I don’t know.

It is truly the luck of the draw. I went through 4 center sections from very good suppliers for Gunner, before I found a used set of gears on Craigslist. I found a retired Ford guy who had some used gears. For $150 bucks for the gear and $100 to set it up, I had a quite set of gears. I dropped off my perfect center section that I paid $2500 bucks for and he said "You got some nice parts here". He put in the used gear and - dead quite. I kept his phone number... lol

Once you get tuned in to the noise it will drive you crazy. I can't stand diff gear noise.

Mark

[randy]

I was hoping you were going to give the magic bullet on Ford 9” gears. Mine isn’t loud but I can hear them.

[jmac]

Is there a reason everyone runs a 9 inch? The only benefit I see is the quick change of ratios if you want. You can build a 12 bolt that's pretty stout.

I'm not looking to start a fight, just looking for some more knowledge on the subject!

[will69camaro]

Is there a reason everyone runs a 9 inch? The only benefit I see is the quick change of ratios if you want. You can build a 12 bolt that's pretty stout.

I'm not looking to start a fight, just looking for some more knowledge on the subject!

I did 9" as it was a DSE piece i found a deal on with quadralink brackets in it. And it will support the 1000+rwhp it can make on a regular basis.

[Musclerodz]

It is truly the luck of the draw. I went through 4 center sections from very good suppliers for Gunner, before I found a used set of gears on Craigslist. I found a retired Ford guy who had some used gears. For $150 bucks for the gear and $100 to set it up, I had a quite set of gears. I dropped off my perfect center section that I paid $2500 bucks for and he said "You got some nice parts here". He put in the used gear and - dead quite. I kept his phone number... lol

Once you get tuned in to the noise it will drive you crazy. I can't stand diff gear noise.

Mark
I can't stand it either. We seem to have the most luck out of Yukon gears, but like you said, nothing beats a factory set for quiet.

[l2azorback]

I purchased a Currie Enterprises narrowed 9” for my DSE QLink application and selected their micro polish service ($150 option). My rear end is extremely quiet and I am very satisfied. I understand that GearFX also offers a similar service.

[69hugger]

The noise isn't limited to 9" Fords. I had a 12 bolt Chev in my last Camaro that had the same issue. I had them replaced with a set of aftermarket gears (don't recall the brand, and it doesn't seem to matter). Had them set up by a local guy that was a GM driveline mechanic for over 40 years. He has done literally thousands of rear ends. They howled like mad. He shrugged his shoulders & said it's the gears. I could buy another set, but I'd likely have the same result. Same story Mark said...they make some good sets, and a bunch of bad ones. I spoke to every gear manufacturers' reps, and they all said they hear noise complaints all the time. This was 15 or so years ago.

I read somewhere many years ago 9" Fords were quieter because of the greater hypoid angle. Seems to make sense that the greater hypoid angle provides the opposite effect of straight cut gears, which are extremely noisy.

My current Camaro has a 9". I had a 60-70 mph neutral-load whine which drove me nuts. I finally decided to have John's (they advertise in the GG Gazette), build me a QUIET pumpkin.
I was told they have a testing vehicle that has microphone(s) mounted on the axle and speakers in the cab, so they can listen for gear noise like with a stethoscope. For a nominal extra fee, they will install your pumpkin, & drive it to make sure it is quiet before shipping. I thought that was no brainer. They also told me they keep track of gear supplier lot numbers, and when they get a noisy set, they log the lot# and black list that lot. This way, they have a pretty good idea of good & bad sets.
Well, my pumpkin was returned to me in late fall, and when I drove it, the gears seemed perfectly quiet. I only put maybe 20-30 mile on them before winter storage. The next spring, aflter driving maybe 50 miles, the howl was back. I called John, and he said this has been happening, he thinks it is related to heat treating. He said he is going crazy trying to get good gears from ANYBODY, but he would stand behind them & give me another rebuild. This time he wanted to put a 3.60 set in instead of the 3.50's I had because he said he had a known good lot. I agreed & he sent me a very quiet (so far) pumpkin. I have several hundred miles on this one, and so far, so good.

Sorry for the long winded reply.

Bill

[67XR7]

It is truly the luck of the draw. I went through 4 center sections from very good suppliers for Gunner, before I found a used set of gears on Craigslist. I found a retired Ford guy who had some used gears. For $150 bucks for the gear and $100 to set it up, I had a quite set of gears. I dropped of my perfect center section that I paid $2500 buck for and he said. "You got some nice parts here". He put in the used gear and - dead quite. I kept his phone number... lol

Once you get tuned in to the noise it will drive you crazy. I can't stand diff gear noise.

Mark

Mark,

Just curious, what brands/types of gear oil have you tried ? Also, what weight gear oil?

[Stielow]

Mark,

Just curious, what brands/types of gear oil have you tried ? Also, what weight gear oil?



I try to use non synthetic oil. 95w120 I think.


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[Stielow]

More sheet metal Matic from Matt at Sled Alley]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190726/1e427015a4371de6620422b73a32f81c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190726/99278ed86a96fcc98b65d3bf1e6d94b7.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190726/a87db9751e0195203f1131055c39da86.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190726/000fd0fb648a99f5c948481677173712.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190726/db2ebdf8d1048b73abc12f77b8fb52aa.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190726/0e88a3ea3a28356e95bbd58b266ba714.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190726/65c88b65f8a8863f81a84f8d818cc4c7.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190726/256102c54120357a9bc0ae0f2c0331e6.jpg


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[Stielow]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190726/0cde58ca92f15006ac4b48f646d0e819.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190726/b56171603485425c02cb55abbca0ecbd.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190726/935a9eae43a71cbfb0eec1f784e2f4d4.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190726/717f0cb98446bddb2b597833e9f02cd0.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190726/fc38ee27b620c8f302d7c177403785d3.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190726/760b6f1c20b0a09d8ce6487fe4021e11.jpg


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[kwhizz]

Amazing !!!!!!!!!!!!

[colorado80439]

Ahh! Another Stielow build on Lateral G! Does it get any better?

[Jimbo1367]

Ahh! Another Stielow build on Lateral G! Does it get any better?

uuuhhhh,
NO
LOL

[Sonar Chief]

That's some attention to detail right there, quality work :thumbsup:

Seems Rick's should be making THREE fuel pump locations in their next build for Mark :poke:

[Stielow]

That's some attention to detail right there, quality work :thumbsup:

Seems Rick's should be making THREE fuel pump locations in their next build for Mark :poke:

I never thought about 3 pumps. That would be easier than the twin Hellcat set up I was planning.

Thanks

Mark

[CamaroAJ]

I never thought about 3 pumps. That would be easier than the twin Hellcat set up I was planning.

Thanks

Mark

couldn't help myself

[will69camaro]

Twin Hellcat pumps is a LOT of fuel. I'm sure that LT5 will need it. Interested to read up more on the fueling on this setup as I'd be willing to modify my fuel system as it's the limitation of my current setup being twin CTS-V.

Looking at the numbers it looks like the hellcat puts out 40% MORE than the V at same pressure and voltage. And on top of that, looking at the flow chart for the pump it's flow doesn't drop off as fast with fuel pressure increase.

**EDIT**
Looking at the numbers, two pumps can support around 1700hp comfortably on E85:bow:

[Stielow]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191009/14a31afe74528bb3d86f7e3c70996ae9.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191009/ebf35086d473db57694a958591acba6a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191009/acabd0f3efbedf04e17d859bc54e1f53.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191009/575c142c37c5e32187f3f59e76e456bc.jpg

The have the new QA1 shock and the new Holley LT5 accessory drive mocked up. The shocks are cool because the have big knobs for quick running. The other set up required removing the wheels. I look forward to testing them.

The new Holley LT5 accessory drive uses the GM LS9 power steering pump. The power steering pulley has its own large bearing to take the blower belt load. The power steering pulley is splined and inserts into the power steering pump.


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[ArisESQ]

Have you run QA1 shocks before?

[Stielow]

Have you run QA1 shocks before?



I have not. The parts look nice and I like the idea of driving to an open track day on soft shock calving. The cranking the shocks to a track set up.

The JRIs are great shocks but you need to pull a front wheel to adjust them.

I’ll find out next summer how they work.

Mark


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[Stielow]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191023/010c0b5bee7959433c80a6cf36ca1864.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191023/deecf5b02d9027cdd75f049932102fde.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191023/b8fb7f00f6cd3f42ea185c40918e5c2f.jpg

Sled Alley is timing up all the sheet metal. This always takes longer that I expect.


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[randy]

What intercooler pump did you use this time or in the past? Also any need for a icebox or do you just typically run a factory supercharger reservoir?

[NAPA 68]

WOW........that blower lid is up there! Is the plan your trademark cowl hood? Enjoying the build as always.

[RSNAKE]

Mark, are you using any electronic traction control? If so, which system?

I am wondering if the Lingenfelter LNC-2014 RPM Limiter Timing Retard Launch Controller GM Gen V DI Engines LT4 LTI L86 L8 will work with the Davis system and the LT5?

[Stielow]

Mark, are you using any electronic traction control? If so, which system?



I am wondering if the Lingenfelter LNC-2014 RPM Limiter Timing Retard Launch Controller GM Gen V DI Engines LT4 LTI L86 L8 will work with the Davis system and the LT5?



I don’t use traction control. I do it the old fashion way... with my foot.


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[Stielow]

Matt is doing a great job on the sheet metal. It alway amazes me the you buy a rust free California car and all the stuff that needs attention. Car had sat for years and was in primer. 95% solid but it the last 5% that eats all the time.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191101/39eee018f0f403149f3e0fc8ca388d2c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191101/af05eabcfa8de0fe20f7759ea5ca3396.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191101/c464a22b2772619dfd3d65f5676f43a2.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191101/38c14dd28106faa5e4d75471654cc1ea.jpg


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[JD67SS]

Is Sled Alley doing the paint, or are you having Dutchboys shoot it?

JD

[Stielow]

Is Sled Alley doing the paint, or are you having Dutchboys shoot it?



JD


Still getting quotes


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[Stielow]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191102/2ce5d1622bd3d2550abe4b305862fd21.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191102/c98758dd1af25635a15aac0c1674173d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191102/b9fb5b1215b27ff81d69f84be0586a16.jpg

Clears the hood!


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[JB400]

https://www.hemmings.com/auction/1969-chevrolet-camaro

[randy]

Did you ever run a icebox or no real need? Also what front and rear spring rate have you been running ?

[glassman]

https://www.hemmings.com/auction/1969-chevrolet-camaro

Great read, thanx for the link.

[Stielow]

Did you ever run a icebox or no real need? Also what front and rear spring rate have you been running ?



I run a big intercooler with no issues. Iceboxes are more of a drag race thing.

For rear spring rates I like 200 lb/inch with the DSE set up. Ok for the street and Ok for the track. A lot of the Goodguys AutoX crowd have moved to around 400 lb/inch. If you want to do well in AutoX then make the car real stiff.


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[randy]

I went in between. I pulled the 250s off and went with 325. What are you running in the front with the supercharger weight? I currently have 550lbs

[Stielow]

I went in between. I pulled the 250s off and went with 325. What are you running in the front with the supercharger weight? I currently have 550lbs



I run 550s lb/in in the front. If you put 325 lb/in on the back then my swag not knowing your rear sway bar would be 700 lb/in. On the new Rival S 1.5 with the correct shock valving that is close to what the DSE track cars have on them.

They ride like crap on the street BTW. I trey that setup in Gunner and hated it.

My (soft) set up on Gunner won the Motorstate Challenge road course segment for Vintage last year. I lost the AutoX because you need the 315 tire on the front for AutoX to do real well. And you need to practice AutoX which I don’t do.

Good luck

Mark


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[CamaroAJ]

Do you still have any sets of the C&R 40mm thicker bricks and spacer from JA 2.0 you’d like to sell? I know a guy looking for a set.

[Stielow]

Do you still have any sets of the C&R 40mm thicker bricks and spacer from JA 2.0 you’d like to sell? I know a guy looking for a set.



Sorry sold the last set 10 months ago.


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[JON Q]

I run 550s lb/in in the front. If you put 325 lb/in on the back then my swag not knowing your rear sway bar would be 700 lb/in. On the new Rival S 1.5 with the correct shock valving that is close to what the DSE track cars have on them.

They ride like crap on the street BTW. I trey that setup in Gunner and hated it.

My (soft) set up on Gunner won the Motorstate Challenge road course segment for Vintage last year. I lost the AutoX because you need the 315 tire on the front for AutoX to do real well. And you need to practice AutoX which I don’t do.

Good luck

Mark



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Mark, what does your soft setup consist of? (Tires, springs, etc.) especially when taking a trip like on the GoodGuys Tour. A soft ride would be much better on a tour like this.

[Ketzer]

Mark,
Each project is a chance to refine something or try something new. Obviously this is the LT5 version, but what other ideas are going into this car that's different from the last?



Jeff-

[OLDFLM]

Mark,

Your PM box is full... again.

Regards,

Ty

[CarlC]

I never thought about 3 pumps. That would be easier than the twin Hellcat set up I was planning.

Thanks

Mark

That would work. Three ZL1's and we can do it still using the GM FSCM as the master controller.

[214Chevy]

Mark,

Your PM box is full... again.

Regards,

Ty

It stays full too... Mark's a wealth of information and I bet he can't keep up with the influx of all of us picking his brain for his knowledge.[/QUOTE]

[Stielow]

Mark,

Your PM box is full... again.

Regards,

Ty

I cleared it out.

Thanks

Mark

[Stielow]

Mark, what does your soft setup consist of? (Tires, springs, etc.) especially when taking a trip like on the GoodGuys Tour. A soft ride would be much better on a tour like this.

My cars tend to weigh 3500 lbs without driver and 52% front weight. I like a 550 lb/in front spring with DSE standard sway bar. On the rear I like 225 lb/in with DSE 1 1/8 rear bar. The softer rear springs and big bar works well for me. The Goodguys AutoX guys are going to a lot higher spring rates.

The "Normal" DSE JRI shocks double adjustable shocks have enough adjustability to be a OK ride but can be firmed up to be used on track.

My issue with the JRI double adjusts are that you need to pull the front tire to adjust them. You also should lube the adjusters every time you change the oil in your car. The adjusters are mild steel and can corrode very easily, then they lock up. The adjustment system is in my opinion kind of delicate. It requires a pin you stick into the adjuster and then you sweep them to the desired setting by counting "Clicks" or "Sweeps".

I'm trying some new shock with knobs and numbers to see if they will work. I want to be able to drive to an event and be able to set the shocks with pulling a tire. Once we test them I'll let you know if they work out.

Mark

[JON Q]

My cars tend to weigh 3500 lbs without driver and 52% front weight. I like a 550 lb/in front spring with DSE standard sway bar. On the rear I like 225 lb/in with DSE 1 1/8 rear bar. The softer rear springs and big bar works well for me. The Goodguys AutoX guys are going to a lot higher spring rates.

The "Normal" DSE JRI shocks double adjustable shocks have enough adjustability to be a OK ride but can be firmed up to be used on track.

My issue with the JRI double adjusts are that you need to pull the front tire to adjust them. You also should lube the adjusters every time you change the oil in your car. The adjusters are mild steel and can corrode very easily, than they lock up. The adjustment system is in my opinion kind of delicate. It requires a pin you stick into the adjuster and then you sweep them to the desired setting by counting "Clicks" or "Sweeps".

I'm trying some new shock with knobs and numbers to see if they will work. I want to be able to drive to an event and be able to set the shocks with pulling a tire. Once we test them I'll let you know if they work out.

Mark

Thank you Mark!! Great information and very valuable, especially the lubing of the adjusters which one can forget very easily. Can't wait to hear your opinion on the new QA1's and looking forward to the progress you and Matt are doing on your new build.

Jon

[Stielow]

Mark,
Each project is a chance to refine something or try something new. Obviously this is the LT5 version, but what other ideas are going into this car that's different from the last?



Jeff-

Jeff

The last 3 builds were no paint required and two were stock engines. I loved Gunner with the stock LT4. That car worked great. I was going to swap it over to LT5 power but I chose to build a whole new car instead.

What's new....

I want to try the new LT5 set up. The Direct Injection in the newer LT engines work great. I was going to leave the LT5 stock then I started to talk to Katech and see the work they are doing with the LT5 stuff.

JackAss 2.0 with the 427 LS9 on E85 ran great. It made 970 HP on E85 and never overheated. I think we can do the same with a LT5 at 6.2 Liters on E85.

On every build we learn something new and I'm just evolving the builds as I go along. Yes it would have been easier to just do another Big LS9 but I've done a few of those now and want to do the LT5. Everything has some small tweeks to fix issues we found on earlier builds.

Some examples:

Hellfire had brake cooling ducts and JA 2.0 did not and Gunner did not. I found out I need brake cooling ducts. JA 2.0 with ABS and Carbon Brakes killed brake pads as well as Gunner with Iron rotors. Matt and I have a new system we hope works.

I finally added data logging to the diff and transmission on Gunner and the data shows I do need to diff cooler if you wan to run more than two 20 minute sessions on a open track day. The transmission did not get as hot but we cool it also. (I will keep the data logging feature on the new build)

The combination of a C&R cooling stack on a stock LT4 will allow you to run a 20 min session on an open track day. Add E85 on the high output stuff and it will also keep things in check. I ran JA 2.0 on a 85 degree day hard and the oil temp was 260 F and the water was 210 F.

E85 fuel is cheap and keeps everything cool on track.

Downside to flow enough fuel (E85) to support 970ish HP you need 2.1 Gallon a Min at 60 PSI. Seem simple right? Try making it work at 1/2 a tank.. This is where I spent a lot of time on the phone with Carl Casanova from VaporWorx. After 5 attempts we got a solution on JA 2.0. 2 complete Hellcat fuel systems controlled by one VaporWorx controller.

Matt at Sled Alley has been key to all the iterations. We evolved the oil dry sump system to the point I feel we have a viable solution. By modifying a Peterson 2 gallon tank to 3 gallon we do not have any oiling issues. Hiding it in the cowl is cool but time consuming.

Driveline angles, we move the trans tunnel up 1.5 inches to get a 1 degree angle on the engine. Seems easy but a lot of fab work.

Just a ton of small details. I enjoy the build and new challenges. New parts and technologies are coming along all the time.

If all goes well I hope to have this car on track in Aug. 2020.

Thanks

Mark

[Stielow]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191219/a2140557fbedb1b8c8aa79701bc34f5c.jpg

Installing a C&R Racing Rad.

Trying a new mounting strategy after failing a couple.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Stielow]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191219/4aff10911bb4598afd254c9f6f558956.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191219/494645b763fae0cded81357af4c7597a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191219/d7e701a57edccf2fc2649ca54a696b47.jpg

We are using 2 inter cooler pumps like the stock ZR1 not what the GM Performace Parts instructions say.

[Flash68]

Jeff

The last 3 builds were no paint required and two were stock engines. I loved Gunner with the stock LT4. That car worked great. I was going to swap it over to LT5 power but I chose to build a whole new car instead.

What's new....

I want to try the new LT5 set up. The Direct Injection in the newer LT engines work great. I was going to leave the LT5 stock then I started to talk to Katech and see the work they are doing with the LT5 stuff.

JackAss 2.0 with the 427 LS9 on E85 ran great. It made 970 HP on E85 and never overheated. I think we can do the same with a LT5 at 6.2 Liters on E85.

On every build we learn something new and I'm just evolving the builds as I go along. Yes it would have been easier to just do another Big LS9 but I've done a few of those now and want to do the LT5. Everything has some small tweeks to fix issues we found on earlier builds.

Some examples:

Hellfire had brake cooling ducts and JA 2.0 did not and Gunner did not. I found out I need brake cooling ducts. JA 2.0 with ABS and Carbon Brakes killed brake pads as well as Gunner with Iron rotors. Matt and I have a new system we hope works.

I finally added data logging to the diff and transmission on Gunner and the data shows I do need to diff cooler if you wan to run more than two 20 minute sessions on a open track day. The transmission did not get as hot but we cool it also. (I will keep the data logging feature on the new build)

The combination of a C&R cooling stack on a stock LT4 will allow you to run a 20 min session on an open track day. Add E85 on the high output stuff and it will also keep things in check. I ran JA 2.0 on a 85 degree day hard and the oil temp was 260 F and the water was 210 F.

E85 fuel is cheap and keeps everything cool on track.

Downside to flow enough fuel (E85) to support 970ish HP you need 2.1 Gallon a Min at 60 PSI. Seem simple right? Try making it work at 1/2 a tank.. This is where I spent a lot of time on the phone with Carl Casanova from VaporWorx. After 5 attempts we got a solution on JA 2.0. 2 complete Hellcat fuel systems controlled by one VaporWorx controller.

Matt at Sled Alley has been key to all the iterations. We evolved the oil dry sump system to the point I feel we have a viable solution. By modifying a Peterson 2 gallon tank to 3 gallon we do not have any oiling issues. Hiding it in the cowl is cool but time consuming.

Driveline angles, we move the trans tunnel up 1.5 inches to get a 1 degree angle on the engine. Seems easy but a lot of fab work.

Just a ton of small details. I enjoy the build and new challenges. New parts and technologies are coming along all the time.

If all goes well I hope to have this car on track in Aug. 2020.

Thanks

Mark

Awesome details. Thanks for sharing Mark.

[WSSix]

Good luck, Mark! Love seeing your builds and knowing so much goes into them to perform as well as they look.

[Stielow]

Latest update.

Pocketing the fire wall for extra clearance for the Direct Injection Pump and wiring.

The LT engines have a high pressure pump and bracket right at the top rear of the engine. Gunner was tight so we opened up on this build.

Matt also added the Vintage Air pass through holes.



https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200104/8542052ba6f80d3e3de899ffeecd5bff.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200104/2829baa825d94fb4d7c9447fdb8f72e7.jpg


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[clill]

In this episode Stielow shows us how big he can make pictures.


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[Stielow]

In this episode Stielow shows us how big he can make pictures.


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Ok newish to Tapatalk... make them smaller?


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[Stielow]

Ok newish to Tapatalk... make them smaller?


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Better? Made them smaller


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[JD67SS]

In this episode Stielow shows us how big he can make pictures.


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That’s some funny sh*t right there... 😆

JD

[WSSix]

Much better, Mark. I can see them more easily now. Thank you!

[Stielow]

I’ll try to post more on this Camaro as I go. Today I’m working on the clutch master set up.

The key part for the swap to a hydraulic clutch is this firewall adaptor from Detroit Speed.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200105/820ed3140effbeb0d977ee6b513b398a.jpg


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[Stielow]

Because the DSE kit is based around a 4th gen Camaro master. I just copy the 4th Gen Camaro clutch pedal geometry. I purchased a stock 1992 Camaro Clutch pedal along time before all these stuff was available so I just use it as a template.

Here is the 69 vs 1991 pedal.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200105/8271035f0b9a3e496892df1366144c13.jpg


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[Stielow]

I weld on a tab to pick up the end of the clutch master cylinder. I drilled a hole in the stock pivot point on the 1991 pedal. I use a transfer punch to locate the new location on the 69 pedal.

I then drill and tab the new tab 1/4 - 20.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200105/57adee22cd75533ca80587b8b85e0df6.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200105/383a8c7ea65846d998e1734ba96a9558.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200105/96bee9a7afe20766afd674ce91e3567a.jpg


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[Stielow]

I used to use the stock 4 th gen GM master cylinders then they got fairly expensive and they were plastic. I found this part on Summit Racing web site and it is aluminum.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200105/769221923d63d253fff284b95eb5ccb0.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200105/f1b4bf6b3d9d020df8d032082aaaf6c8.jpg


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[Stielow]

If you carefully remove the stock end that designed to hook to the stock 4th Gen Camaro pedal the Dorman part has 1/4 - 20 treads. I run a die down those threads after I remove the crimes on part.

I then use a piece of 5/16 thick wall tubing to make a new rod. Drill and tap one end 1/4 - 20 and the other end 1/4 - 28 for a 1/4 rod end

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200105/e28f9ef4606e3843071a7a77f17a1791.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200105/29adbcb5360bf02f687d48ce09293be7.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200105/b7740e3ecf458e4d2da01ee207052d39.jpg


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[Stielow]

Sorry got ahead of myself a bit. Need to set the length of the rod prior to cutting it.

I mock it up on my table to sort that out.

Copying the stock 4th gen geometry should make the linkage at a 90 degree angle at 1/2 stroke. It you draw a line from the pivot point of the pedal to the pivot point of the rod end the to the center of the master cylinder it should be 90 degrees. This keeps the side load on the master cylinder to a minimum. If you are failing master cylinders most likely your geometry it incorrect and your side loading the master cylinder.

While you have the assembly out of the car and on the work bench also verify the push rod is straight. The centerline of the master cylinder and the push rod should be straight at half stroke. In my setup I had to add two washers to straighten it up.

I later tack welded the washers on the pedal to make it easier to assemble later.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200105/031268ff1cb6dfa724b21aca03bf5195.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200105/2ae276884ed23bcc1a0fefc822642c69.jpg


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[Stielow]

I had to clearance the support to clear my bolts.

I use a long stud to make assembling all this in the car easier.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200105/10091bdb30bd5f0de5e07433939ab161.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200105/cdb461966ca6290988d4533af3236699.jpg


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[Stielow]

Because the LT5 ECM is looking for a clutch switch and I’m adding Cruise control I added a clutch switch also while I was making stuff.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200105/1e3da8780e9a144a61bb05359dd3b45f.jpg

My disclaimer. This works for me and there maybe other ways to do it. I have used this system on the last 5 Camaros with zero issues. I then to revert back to “what do GM do” for a lot of my solutions.

It is amazing the the 1969 clutch pedal and the 1991 pedal are the same length. These setup coupled with a Centerforce clutch make the clutch pedal feel like a stock Camaro.


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[Stielow]

Sorry one more thing. I add an adaptor to the Dorman Master Cylinder to convert to -4 AN line. Make hooking up the clutch easier. You can just purchase a premade line to fit. I do add a dry break so if I do need to pull the transmission I don’t have to re bleed the system.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200105/669d1490110e1be7d0f0e7f16cfcc169.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200105/23528f26936d0532ececbd591c261bc7.jpg


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[WSSix]

Excellent information, Mark. Thanks for being so detailed

[kwhizz]

When I took the Impala Convert I bought apart...…. Here's what I found for brake pedal linkage...….. LOL...… Pretty scary....

https://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a251/kwhizz/Impala%20Convert/DSC04243.jpg

[andrewb70]

Sorry one more thing. I add an adaptor to the Dorman Master Cylinder to convert to -4 AN line. Make hooking up the clutch easier. You can just purchase a premade line to fit. I do add a dry break so if I do need to pull the transmission I don’t have to re bleed the system.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200105/669d1490110e1be7d0f0e7f16cfcc169.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200105/23528f26936d0532ececbd591c261bc7.jpg


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Earl's has a whole line of various fittings for OEM clutch connections, including the early and the later style dry breaks.

Andrew

[CarlC]

Because the LT5 ECM is looking for a clutch switch and I’m adding Cruise control I added a clutch switch also while I was making stuff.

What type of user interface are you considering to actuate / control the CC?

[CarlC]

I used to use the stock 4 th gen GM master cylinders then they got fairly expensive and they were plastic. I found this part on Summit Racing web site and it is aluminum.

Many folks modified the OEM 4th gen part with the "drill mod" in order to increase the flowrate through the MC. Are any other similar modifications needed for the Dorman part?

[Stielow]

What type of user interface are you considering to actuate / control the CC?



I’ve used the Dakota Digital Cruise control (The CAN) based one on 2 projects now and it is truly plug and play. You need a throttle by wire set up.

It works great and has an OE looking turn signal stalk.


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[Stielow]

Many folks modified the OEM 4th gen part with the "drill mod" in order to increase the flowrate through the MC. Are any other similar modifications needed for the Dorman part?



Carl off memory I think that restrictor was in the stock hydraulic line. Going to the Earls parts with -4 line opens the circuit up.

Some automotive development information. The restrictor is the stock line to help protect the driveline from snap clutch applications. With the restrictor you can’t run the engine up to redline and dump the clutch. The restrictor controls the apply rate of the clutch. If you get rid of it your system reacts faster. Downside your driveline loads go up and you break more parts.


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[CarlC]

Thanks Mark.

BTW, the Wagner replacement MC is made by AP but I too like the aluminum Dorman part (on order....).

[jmac]

Awesome info, great detail.

1) What throw out bearing are you going to be using?

2) For the cruise control, is that only compatible with a factory ECM and not for something like a Dominator?

[Stielow]

Awesome info, great detail.



1) What throw out bearing are you going to be using?



2) For the cruise control, is that only compatible with a factory ECM and not for something like a Dominator?


I’ll use a Centerforce throw out bearing and clutch. I think their throw out bearing is a Ford parts with a bit more stroke. But I could be wrong.

Not sure on the cruse control. Call Dakota Digital. They have a good tech line.



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[Stielow]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200110/94803f7a9d0c83ee6ef10f813a0e13df.jpg

I’m painting it White just because Charley hates it....[emoji57]


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[clill]

I’ll kill u till your dead !!!!


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[JKnight]

Love the white, but then again, I loved Camaro X in white...apparently that makes me weird, I’m ok with that :)

[clill]

Don’t encourage him !!!


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[fleetus macmullitz]

I’ll kill u till your dead !!!!

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Finally some :drama: around here...lol

[camcojb]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200110/94803f7a9d0c83ee6ef10f813a0e13df.jpg

I’m painting it White just because Charley hates it....[emoji57]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Send me a larger res version of that for your website please. :hello:

[JD67SS]

White is Sooooo underrated...
Good for you!

BUT, who are you going with for the paint? (Or are you still getting quotes?)

JD

[jmac]

Thank you for the response. Love the rendering.

Back to your clutch pedal, are you going to fab up some kind of stop so it doesn't over travel? Just curious to see your design for that.

John

[WSSix]

You know, a pearl white would look great in my opinion. I, too, loved Camaro X. Though, I think Mayhem is my favorite of your builds.

[Stielow]

White is Sooooo underrated...

Good for you!



BUT, who are you going with for the paint? (Or are you still getting quotes?)



JD



I want to continue my relationship with the Dutchboys. Paul and Joe are great guys and have painted my last 4 cars. Their team is top notch. They understand I beat the crap out of my cars.

The reason I’m painting it white is so it is easy to fix. All the rock chips and track rash will be easier to touch up. So straight white a OE color so I can fix it.

Mark


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[Stielow]

Thank you for the response. Love the rendering.



Back to your clutch pedal, are you going to fab up some kind of stop so it doesn't over travel? Just curious to see your design for that.



John



I use the floor as a pedal stop. I adjust it to get full stroke right before it hits the floor.

I have never sorted out a clean stop other than the floor.

Mark


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[Stielow]

Sled Alley welded the adaptor to the firewall to close it out.

Totally filling all the holes and closing out the gaps around the clutch master cylinder adapter keeps the interior quieter and cooler in the summer.

The reason I set up the geometry for the clutch on the bench is once it is welded in it is hard to work on.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200111/a0c17a9fc72271fbae8072b35f9446e0.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200111/6597d6c99b00de2679dd2df0cc7fd911.jpg


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[JON Q]

Mark, your new website is very cool!

[Stielow]

Mark, your new website is very cool!



Thanks. Jody did it. Looks cool.


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[vdrivinmike]

Love the rendering; looks fantastic.

[kwhizz]

mark, your new website is very cool!


x 2...………………….

[Stielow]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200115/5383982af4d3ba401c327522954a32d3.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200116/bb85e28758c6c8f5263211e8d96ceb00.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200116/fa7fecc9020e41bcd1a499708c8386c6.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200116/94ac156a882e2dfa45721d90e905acd3.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200116/67f80b83c8f996792bd29e08daef8bcf.jpg

Working on the dry sump tank science project. This gets hidden in the passenger fender in the cowl area.

We run -8 lines off the valve covers to a -10. That runs to the top of the dry sump tank. Then the dry sump tank vents through a Mann and Hummel Air oil separator. The 5/8 line coming off the air oil separator runs to the induction tube.

The tall cylinder mounted to the dry sump tank is the transmission expansion tank. I run the vent line off the trans to the bottom of that tank. During open track days I have seen the transmission push out fluid when it is hot. Makes a mess. So now we add an expansion tank. Fluid get hot gets pushed into tank then drains back into trans when it cools.




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[dontlifttoshift]

We duplicated that setup on a LT4 after seeing it on Gunner.....which way is the arrow pointing on the Mann Hummel separator?

Thanks for taking the time to post this. I know people like pictures, but the technical side of things is what interests me about anyone's build threads.

[ScotI]

We duplicated that setup on a LT4 after seeing it on Gunner.....which way is the arrow pointing on the Mann Hummel separator?

Thanks for taking the time to post this. I know people like pictures, but the technical side of things is what interests me about anyone's build threads.

This...
The explanation behind is so appreciated. It helps those that aren't 'in the know' get a better idea of how things can be improved. Of course pics also help see details that push others builds to new & better levels of execution.

[Stielow]

We duplicated that setup on a LT4 after seeing it on Gunner.....which way is the arrow pointing on the Mann Hummel separator?



Thanks for taking the time to post this. I know people like pictures, but the technical side of things is what interests me about anyone's build threads.



https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200116/f4e4bc4e9f64c28efb4808e46819b35a.jpg



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[Stielow]

This...

The explanation behind is so appreciated. It helps those that aren't 'in the know' get a better idea of how things can be improved. Of course pics also help see details that push others builds to new & better levels of execution.



The reason the tank has the extra volume added is because the oil level has to be checked with a dip stick. To make the system less sensitive to oil level we add an extra 2 quarts to the system.

This is the 4th car we have done this modification to and it works great. The only big issue is if you have an issue with it to service it.

Now I pressure test all tanks and hoses prior to assembly. Save a lot of time to fix it before it is buried in a fender.


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[clill]

Ask him how he knows this. :D

[WSSix]

How do you know this, Mark?!

Great stuff as always. I really enjoy learning and reading about the technical aspects of it too. Thanks for taking the time.

[Stielow]

Ask him how he knows this. :D



I had a dry sump tank leak on Hellfire. Had to pull the fender to fix it. Kinda of a bummer.


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[jmac]

Hi Mark, I have a question regarding your choice of engine management.

I know you're an engineer for GM so I can see why you'd favor the factory ECM's, but have you ever considered something like a Holley Dominator or HP or even the new Terminator system for one of your builds?

Can you explain why you use the factory ECM?

I'm at a point in my build where I'm looking at this and I'm torn on what to do after seeing all the success you've had running factory ECM's. I was looking in to a Holley Dominator for my LS7 because I needed DBW control and wanted to keep 2 O2 sensors, which you can only run 1 with the Terminator. I think the Dominator would be overkill really for my setup with endless inputs and outputs that I'll never really use. I just think if it works for you, it must work for me.

Would just like your insight.

Thanks,

John

[Stielow]

Hi Mark, I have a question regarding your choice of engine management.

I know you're an engineer for GM so I can see why you'd favor the factory ECM's, but have you ever considered something like a Holley Dominator or HP or even the new Terminator system for one of your builds?

Can you explain why you use the factory ECM?

I'm at a point in my build where I'm looking at this and I'm torn on what to do after seeing all the success you've had running factory ECM's. I was looking in to a Holley Dominator for my LS7 because I needed DBW control and wanted to keep 2 O2 sensors, which you can only run 1 with the Terminator. I think the Dominator would be overkill really for my setup with endless inputs and outputs that I'll never really use. I just think if it works for you, it must work for me.

Would just like your insight.

Thanks,

John

John

I have been a fan of the GM controllers for most of my recent build for a few reasons. Refinement of calibration, and familiarity. The E67 used by the LS9 was used for a long time and was a very refined package. We have refined the 427 LS9 package for 10 years and over 30 engines. That package is sorted!

If the engine stays relatively stock the OE controllers work great with tools like HP Tuners. My buddy Dave Mikels tuned all this packages and continues to make them better.

I'm moving toward a hybrid set up on my LT5 do to the fact the GM ECMs will not do what I want to do. The aftermarket has made big gains in the last few years in refinement. I know as I move into a new control system we will have some learning curve. As a GM engineer I like things refined. Holes in an engine calibration bug me.

Mark

[Stielow]

The DSE sub from has a divot in it to clear a dry sump LS7 oil pan. Works good for that the LT4s and LT5s have the drain plug in a slightly different spot. So the guys at Sled Alley moved it.

People ask me why do you keep building 69 Camaro. I just keep on refining them. I missed this detail on Gunner with the LT4. I’m fixing it this time.

Bugged me every time I had to do an oil change.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200122/ea2013f0a9be34ae579972ba41850b6d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200122/a0ac293d288e90d4681219dbe96f806a.jpg


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[dhutton]

John

I have been a fan of the GM controllers for most of my recent build for a few reasons. Refinement of calibration, and familiarity. The E67 used by the LS9 was used for a long time and was a very refined package. We have refined the 427 LS9 package for 10 years and over 30 engines. That package is sorted!

If the engine stays relatively stock the OE controllers work great with tools like HP Tuners. My buddy Dave Mikels tuned all this packages and continues to make them better.

I'm moving toward a hybrid set up on my LT5 do to the fact the GM ECMs will not do what I want to do. The aftermarket has made big gains in the last few years in refinement. I know as I move into a new control system we will have some learning curve. As a GM engineer I like things refined. Holes in an engine calibration bug me.

Mark

Hi Mark. So what controller are you using?

Thanks,
Don

[Stielow]

Hi Mark. So what controller are you using?



Thanks,

Don



I’m using two. The GM E92 to control most engine functions plus a Holley (TerminatorX) piggyback ECM to control the extra 8 PFI injectors and the electronic bypass valve.

It is a bit of a science fair project but allows access to the functions we want.

More to come when we get on dyno.

Mark


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[jmac]

John

I have been a fan of the GM controllers for most of my recent build for a few reasons. Refinement of calibration, and familiarity. The E67 used by the LS9 was used for a long time and was a very refined package. We have refined the 427 LS9 package for 10 years and over 30 engines. That package is sorted!

If the engine stays relatively stock the OE controllers work great with tools like HP Tuners. My buddy Dave Mikels tuned all this packages and continues to make them better.

I'm moving toward a hybrid set up on my LT5 do to the fact the GM ECMs will not do what I want to do. The aftermarket has made big gains in the last few years in refinement. I know as I move into a new control system we will have some learning curve. As a GM engineer I like things refined. Holes in an engine calibration bug me.

Mark


Thank you for the response. I'm familiar with Dave and his wealth of knowledge from reading the thread on PWM control. The man definitely knows a thing or two about these ECM's.

Keep us updated every step of the way! My Dorman MC arrives tomorrow! 👍🏼

[dhutton]

I’m using two. The GM E92 to control most engine functions plus a Holley (TerminatorX) piggyback ECM to control the extra 8 PFI injectors and the electronic bypass valve.

It is a bit of a science fair project but allows access to the functions we want.

More to come when we get on dyno.

Mark


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Ok so now I am confused. Are you replacing the direct injection with port injection or are you using both which sounds a little mind boggling.

Thanks,
Don

[jmac]

The LT5 uses both kinds of injectors. I think the DI injectors run out of steam at a certain power level and the port injectors supplement them.

[Stielow]

Ok so now I am confused. Are you replacing the direct injection with port injection or are you using both which sounds a little mind boggling.



Thanks,

Don



The GM LT4 ECM (E92) will control all the functions like DI injectors, timing, throttle. The Holley piggy back will add PFI injectors and a PWM bypass valve in the blower to control boost.

The stock LT5 use 2 ECMs from the factory. A E99 and a S53 ECMs. The issue with the LT5 set up is fairly locked up and does not have the flexibility we want.


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[dhutton]

The GM LT4 ECM (E92) will control all the functions like DI injectors, timing, throttle. The Holley piggy back will add PFI injectors and a PWM bypass valve in the blower to control boost.

The stock LT5 use 2 ECMs from the factory. A E99 and a S53 ECMs. The issue with the LT5 set up is fairly locked up and does not have the flexibility we want.


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So would the direct injection be a MAF based system and the port injection speed density? I’ll bet it will be fun keeping the two systems stable and playing well with each other. Sorry for all the questions. Just find it interesting.

Thanks,
Don

[CarlC]

We run -8 lines off the valve covers to a -10. That runs to the top of the dry sump tank. Then the dry sump tank vents through a Mann and Hummel Air oil separator. The 5/8 line coming off the air oil separator runs to the induction tube.

Regarding the induction tube attachment, understanding that Mann Hummel -10 line should be downstream of the MAF, have you found there to be an better attachment angle/arrangement? A "T" with the -10 hose connection at an angle to the airflow + away from the short radius bends? I'm finding a larger fresh air vent is needed to help keep the oil clean vs. the stock 3/8" lines.

[jeff71]

Hey Mark,

What mufflers do you intend to use? In the past I’ve heard several of your cars in person Mule, Jackass 1.0, Red Devil and Hellfire. If I remember correctly several of those ran the Borla XR1?

I’m at the exhaust stage on my project and want ZERO drone and mild sound as you seem to want.

[Stielow]

Hey Mark,



What mufflers do you intend to use? In the past I’ve heard several of your cars in person Mule, Jackass 1.0, Red Devil and Hellfire. If I remember correctly several of those ran the Borla XR1?



I’m at the exhaust stage on my project and want ZERO drone and mild sound as you seem to want.



Great question. I have a set of prototype mufflers coming from Hooker to try.

I want the same thing you do, fairly quite and no drone at 70 - 80 mph.

I’ll post on how they work and if Hooker is going to make them.

Mark


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[Stielow]

Heavy fab work. Adding a diff cooler. The Gen 5 ZL1 uses a oil to oil diff cooler. The transmission has a transmission oil pump in it. Pump the trans fluid to the radiator, through a oil to water oil cooler then to the diff thought a oil to oil cooler. The the fluid returns to the transmission. I’ll use a stand alone electric transport oil pump to circulate the fluid.

I repurposed the diff cooler to my GearFX housing. Made a steel box out of 3/16 mild steel (In hindsight 1/8 might be ok). Hogged out a big hole making sure the cooler clears the center section. Weld it all back together. The 3/16 plate did not warp when I welded it.

I did the same modification to Hellfire and Jackass. I did not add this to Gunner and I could over temp the diff in 4 20 min track sessions.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200128/5932d380a2da6833ab1af04fc18c9df2.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200128/7a598680288b8cd346dd4848de5c903c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200128/2c48e3c77a661ffcb311443361d5e628.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200128/baddd6573c22457aa9d47d3fdeef4bb7.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200128/8a96dead79b2ac40a6cd84679ea0345e.jpg


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[jeff71]

Thanks for the response Mark.

Any hints on the type? Straight through, Turbo or Chambered?

Thanks

[jmac]

Interested in those new mufflers as well.

I love the sound of the Borlas. Did you run any type of resonator with your previous builds Mark? Before or after the muffler?

Thanks!

[Stielow]

Thanks for the response Mark.



Any hints on the type? Straight through, Turbo or Chambered?



Thanks



Not sure yet.

Mark


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[Stielow]

Interested in those new mufflers as well.



I love the sound of the Borlas. Did you run any type of resonator with your previous builds Mark? Before or after the muffler?



Thanks!



Yes resonators before the mufflers.

If you want to get what was on Gunner Hooker sells it.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200129/4016b99b40fcc74ee86afec405c885c8.jpg


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[Stielow]

Matt is a true craftsman.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200129/c23b745c79f3a99af81f1f4680535cfe.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200129/567827e713ccc11fbb83976bb9b07552.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200129/9797523ba696acdf87197b10fd16a3eb.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200129/410244869297d616cf33dd4388328deb.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200129/f15a46b6fd631620bab9f0ba26419810.jpg


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[Ketzer]

Heavy fab work. Adding a diff cooler. The Gen 5 ZL1 uses a oil to oil diff cooler. The transmission has a transmission oil pump in it. Pump the trans fluid to the radiator, through a oil to water oil cooler then to the diff thought a oil to oil cooler. The the fluid returns to the transmission. I’ll use a stand alone electric transport oil pump to circulate the fluid.

I repurposed the diff cooler to my GearFX housing. Made a steel box out of 3/16 mild steel (In hindsight 1/8 might be ok). Hogged out a big hole making sure the cooler clears the center section. Weld it all back together. The 3/16 plate did not warp when I welded it.

I did the same modification to Hellfire and Jackass. I did not add this to Gunner and I could over temp the diff in 4 20 min track sessions.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200128/5932d380a2da6833ab1af04fc18c9df2.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200128/7a598680288b8cd346dd4848de5c903c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200128/2c48e3c77a661ffcb311443361d5e628.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200128/baddd6573c22457aa9d47d3fdeef4bb7.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200128/8a96dead79b2ac40a6cd84679ea0345e.jpg


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VERY cool!
Does this system get an external filter of some kind?
Does it add much oil capacity overall?

[wiedemab]

Mark,

I would assume they are the reall stuff, but do you know if they are using real lead or the new "lead-less" solder.

Just curious. Car is going to be so cool! - - as yours always are. :)

[DKz Garage]

Love to follow your builds Mark ....... some much craftsmanship and great ideas!!

[Sled Alley]

Mark,

I would assume they are the reall stuff, but do you know if they are using real lead or the new "lead-less" solder.

Just curious. Car is going to be so cool! - - as yours always are. :)

Yes the lead is the real stuff its 80/20. The new lead-less solder just isnt the same it doesn't seem to have the bite like the old stuff does

[raustinss]

Maybe it's already been asked and I missed it . Why are you using lead vs any type of typical bondo ?

[Steve68]

Yes resonators before the mufflers.

If you want to get what was on Gunner Hooker sells it.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200129/4016b99b40fcc74ee86afec405c885c8.jpg


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Nice Kit, is this all premade for a mini tubbed gas tank??

[cjfirstgen]

Nice Kit, is this all premade for a mini tubbed gas tank??

Correct. Worked well for my build although I did add more v-bands. They utilize a few band clamps which falls short of expectations IMO.

[Stielow]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200206/3a24d6ac5658fbf8ee465b9202f07622.jpg

The engine bay is going back together today. I like this part of the project.

Packaging all the stuff in!


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[clill]

Yep...Looking like a Stielow science project......

[CamaroAJ]

Maybe I missed it, but what coolant pumps are you using for the supercharger?

[cwylie]

Maybe I missed it, but what coolant pumps are you using for the supercharger?

It looks like the factory C7 ZR1 pumps.

[Stielow]

It looks like the factory C7 ZR1 pumps.



Yep!


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[randy]

What are the two inner tabs on the front of the subframe by the body bushing holes?


https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200206/3a24d6ac5658fbf8ee465b9202f07622.jpg

The engine bay is going back together today. I like this part of the project.

Packaging all the stuff in!


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[Stielow]

What are the two inner tabs on the front of the subframe by the body bushing holes?



Lower radiator mounts.


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[jmac]

What are you using, and where are you mounting the reservoir for the clutch master cylinder?

Thanks!

[MtotheIKEo]

What are you using, and where are you mounting the reservoir for the clutch master cylinder?

Thanks!

Look back a few pages, very informative set of posts on the clutch pedal/master installation.

[jmac]

Look back a few pages, very informative set of posts on the clutch pedal/master installation.

Yes those pics and step by step instructions were amazing in detail. My Dorman master cylinder and 4th gen clutch pedal are sitting on the bench and I'm about to duplicate the same thing.

I was curious about the reservoir that holds the fluid, is he using a white plastic OE looking one, or some trick billet one? Where's it mounted? On the firewall by the brake booster, or stealthy and hidden somewhere?

Thanks!

[Stielow]

Yes those pics and step by step instructions were amazing in detail. My Dorman master cylinder and 4th gen clutch pedal are sitting on the bench and I'm about to duplicate the same thing.



I was curious about the reservoir that holds the fluid, is he using a white plastic OE looking one, or some trick billet one? Where's it mounted? On the firewall by the brake booster, or stealthy and hidden somewhere?



Thanks!



I like the OE look of the stock reservoir It will mounted on the fire wheel where it is already to bleed and any bubbles will have a path to get back to the reservoir.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200213/3a671f5cb6ad12ff3a4fc4a412360a66.jpg


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[Jimbo1367]

Mark,
I think for your next build you should try sometihng a little outside your comfort zone and do a 70-73 Camaro RS . What would be your thoughts on something like that?

[Stielow]

Mark,

I think for your next build you should try sometihng a little outside your comfort zone and do a 70-73 Camaro RS . What would be your thoughts on something like that?


I think someone post this on every one of my builds....

My life coach told me a 2nd gen is a bad idea.

I did a 78 Blazer. That was a bit out of my Comfort zone. I had a blast building it but did not get too crazy.




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[dhutton]

Life coach.... LOL. Is that Charlie?

Don

[214Chevy]

Yeah Mark...do a second gen. Matter of fact, see the one I have for sale in the classifieds. :lol::lol::idea::idea:

[Jimbo1367]

Life coach.... LOL. Is that Charlie?

Don

I think someone post this on every one of my builds....

My life coach told me a 2nd gen is a bad idea.

I did a 78 Blazer. That was a bit out of my Comfort zone. I had a blast building it but did not get too crazy.
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No his wife. LOL

[Jimbo1367]

I would really love to see what cool things the father of pro-touring would do to 2nd gen. Yeah, I have a 70, so it would hit closer to home. I love the blazer build. I didn't even know about it til the mag. article.

[colorado80439]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200115/5383982af4d3ba401c327522954a32d3.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200116/bb85e28758c6c8f5263211e8d96ceb00.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200116/fa7fecc9020e41bcd1a499708c8386c6.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200116/94ac156a882e2dfa45721d90e905acd3.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200116/67f80b83c8f996792bd29e08daef8bcf.jpg

Working on the dry sump tank science project. This gets hidden in the passenger fender in the cowl area.

We run -8 lines off the valve covers to a -10. That runs to the top of the dry sump tank. Then the dry sump tank vents through a Mann and Hummel Air oil separator. The 5/8 line coming off the air oil separator runs to the induction tube.

The tall cylinder mounted to the dry sump tank is the transmission expansion tank. I run the vent line off the trans to the bottom of that tank. During open track days I have seen the transmission push out fluid when it is hot. Makes a mess. So now we add an expansion tank. Fluid get hot gets pushed into tank then drains back into trans when it cools.




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I have to admit I've been lurking about looking to replicate this oiling/venting system. I think Donny was questioning this before, maybe on a different build, but I'm wondering how to route the oil return from the air/oil separator. Above or below the oil level? check valve? No check valve? Vent it to atmosphere?

[WSSix]

Malitude was even further out of your comfort zone I'd say and that was a grand slam of a car in my opinion.

As much as I'd love to see your idea of a 2nd gen, I'm still amazed and appreciative of how open you are with all of your builds. Thank you, Mark.

[jmac]

Ok, another question for you Mark!

With the DSE subframe, what transmission cross member are you using?

I know the DSE engine mounts move the engine back 1.5 inches, and they say to use a stock style cross member. What are you using in this build, and what have you used in past builds? The closest pic I could see was on post #61, but it's far in the background and I can't really make it out.

Thanks again for your time and expertise!

[will69camaro]

Ok, another question for you Mark!

With the DSE subframe, what transmission cross member are you using?

I know the DSE engine mounts move the engine back 1.5 inches, and they say to use a stock style cross member. What are you using in this build, and what have you used in past builds? The closest pic I could see was on post #61, but it's far in the background and I can't really make it out.

Thanks again for your time and expertise!

I’ll let him verify but looks like (holley) hooker blackheart one to me.

https://www.holley.com/products/ls_power/engine_and_transmission_mounts/ls_transmission_crossmembers/parts/12626HKR

[Sled Alley]

I have to admit I've been lurking about looking to replicate this oiling/venting system. I think Donny was questioning this before, maybe on a different build, but I'm wondering how to route the oil return from the air/oil separator. Above or below the oil level? check valve? No check valve? Vent it to atmosphere?


The nipple off of the bottom of the air oil separator is mounted higher than the oil level and the line off of it returns low in the tank below oil level and does have a check valve coming right off of the separator

[Sled Alley]

Ok, another question for you Mark!

With the DSE subframe, what transmission cross member are you using?

I know the DSE engine mounts move the engine back 1.5 inches, and they say to use a stock style cross member. What are you using in this build, and what have you used in past builds? The closest pic I could see was on post #61, but it's far in the background and I can't really make it out.

Thanks again for your time and expertise!


The LT motor mounts and trans cross member are both hooker blackheart. We built the first set off gunner and got all of the angles set and holley is now producing them. They fit great and everything bolts in as it should. You do have to raise the tunnel to get correct driveline angle

[jmac]

Ahhhhhh, that's right, I forgot this was an LT series engine!

What have you guys done for LS engines in the past using the DSE subframe? I know DSE has their own engine mounts for the LS engine for their subframe, but kind of leave you hanging on the trans cross member.

And would you happen to have any pics of the interior trans tunnel mods you've performed?

Thanks!

[JON Q]

Ahhhhhh, that's right, I forgot this was an LT series engine!

What have you guys done for LS engines in the past using the DSE subframe? I know DSE has their own engine mounts for the LS engine for their subframe, but kind of leave you hanging on the trans cross member.

And would you happen to have any pics of the interior trans tunnel mods you've performed?

Thanks!

If you go back to the build of Jackass 2.0, you will find the pictures there on the cross member Mark has built on Hellfire and JA for the LS9. It is on page 68. If you look at some of the DSE builds you will also find they have built a similar setup

[Stielow]

Some random build photos.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200306/469876d4e6389ac10f7e4082c3236314.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200306/606c0a7a4c0bb55715e61b1a8d0b2404.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200306/3aad2e5bb2b9c5a5c8cfdaa2ecf83986.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200306/e2fc8bf456c086c64acae8a38b65b090.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200306/476c4f45f91d0adf5c9e92b17902124d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200306/18957b5b79a196970896cc06e24e6387.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200306/beb9134d7fe0800c7fa9302875a4a88e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200306/b0db291b760cdc92925230f85f0a370a.jpg


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[Stielow]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200306/6b918c041ddcb7184f893a1f19fbd75f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200306/77fa7977839cae2e06313c705794ea8c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200306/3d028a01ba8331822918c313d5f92421.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200306/4f4ecfdca0f4749b12c9acecbc62bbc7.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200306/99f17477d48490c13676a642764ffcc1.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200306/3f7da78c61e5f192396af777fd5bd457.jpg


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[jarhead]

Amazing detail!

[ZMAN1969]

I think Mark ought to build these for the rest of us :idea:- how about it Mark,are you up to do 2-3 millions of these for your followers? :king:

[Stielow]

Modo Innovations Gas Pedal adaptor

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200306/7002c88c90c0d7f56d44ada335398745.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200306/295da275f252a04a9cd5d1c2c06ad603.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200306/427c9e4641fbb187a02499f9ff446347.jpg


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[Stielow]

We are dry building the whole car this time before paint. Matt is putting the front clip on it now to finish the engine bay.

Just finished the dip stick for dry sump tank.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200306/8ae80ebd11e87be2c65fd0af2cafec4c.jpg

Reassembling the front end

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200306/6e3467a409c0d7b8d6b387648617bfa9.jpg


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[214Chevy]

Amazing work!! You have a color picked out yet Mark?

[jmac]

Wow! You've been busy! Those brake lines look great, I can't believe how close the balancer is to the cross member.

What's going on in the rear? I see two catch cans/vents, one for the gas tank and one for the rear? What's that next to the Vaporworx controller?

Thanks for sharing!

John

[Stielow]

Wow! You've been busy! Those brake lines look great, I can't believe how close the balancer is to the cross member.



What's going on in the rear? I see two catch cans/vents, one for the gas tank and one for the rear? What's that next to the Vaporworx controller?



Thanks for sharing!



John



The two canisters are from Two Much. One is the vent for the fuel tank and the other is the vent for the diff.

Their are two fuel pump controllers. One is the GM from the LT5 crate engine harness the 2nd is Vapor Worx to run a second fuel pump for E85 capability.

Matt and the Gang at Sled Alley are doing a great job.




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[clill]

Amazing work!! You have a color picked out yet Mark?
I've been urging him to paint it white so I can buy it cheap.....

[JON Q]

Amazing work!! You have a color picked out yet Mark?
Visit page 12 or go and visit Mark's site, the link is on the bottom of his posts

[JD67SS]

I've been urging him to paint it white so I can buy it cheap.....

I love your subtle shots :D

JD

[Stielow]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200307/930fa5e6a326f741c2430d04d47d892d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200307/66c4b489224338565e8ee758e5ce5ec0.jpg

New hood fits well


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[Stielow]

Next up finishing the engine bay

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200307/e060338f5ca4fbeb317e40e5d127369d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200307/9499da2ba60c9e98bebedc11576dcce0.jpg


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[jmac]

Is that a steel hood with Anvil inserts?

[Stielow]

Is that a steel hood with Anvil inserts?



No it is my hood off my molds all carbon fiber. Because we are painting this one it is in primer.


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[Stielow]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200307/c2fca0d9aaec2679708e4ad04c87949c.jpg

Brake cooling ducts using the frame rail.

We did this on Hellfire. Worked great!

[Stielow]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200307/08267476184129300fb37711f5d36974.jpg

To get at the dry sump tank when the car is assembled we made this accesses panel. The rear part of the passenger inner fender well is removable.


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[Stielow]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200307/b9251787a5a3e8d2dd9a991542a2766f.jpg

Holley’s transmission crossmember.


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[Stielow]

Random photoshttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200307/ee8386336d0f4eb14f8221a2305089f1.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200307/59e793fbd71cc6ce9fc3659c50107849.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200307/b4e75902c9379065a0a015019efd253d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200307/8d80f34c26fb7f25c53f6343ec584fbf.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200307/50f4e5f453bd4f645e6767740161f9df.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200307/b947ec9ce7b3e46dbcf85a8b06917274.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200307/bad693df8cc3295b77f3219ec1a19316.jpg


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[kwhizz]

A work of ART !!!!!!!!!

[64G-lark]

Mark can you tell us where you source the radiator mounts? Looking for ones like that. Thanks.

[Stielow]

Mark can you tell us where you source the radiator mounts? Looking for ones like that. Thanks.



The lower mounts are C6 Corvette on stock style pins. The weight of the cooling stack sits on mounts that bolts to the frame. The radiator, intercooler, ac condenser and fan as an assembly. It has some weight.

The side mount is a fabricated mount using a grommet. The radiator side has a turned pin. The other brakes is a fabricated mount. This constrains the rad for after but allows for expansion.

The system allows the radiator to float. I have failed a number of radiators do to ridged mounts. We want to it to have room to expand as it heats up.

Again look at a way a stock (New Car) radiator is mounted. Copy that.

Mark

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200308/de3a79f2889406260f37cdc6a41de3b4.jpg


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[Stielow]

A work of ART !!!!!!!!!



https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200308/3c67fe3dc8cfdc4e15b709918c9607e9.jpg

Thanks Ken! This is the last set of Alex ends you made for me.

DSE makes a system now, but I like my set up a little better.

Thanks!


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[Stielow]

Wow! You've been busy! Those brake lines look great, I can't believe how close the balancer is to the cross member.



What's going on in the rear? I see two catch cans/vents, one for the gas tank and one for the rear? What's that next to the Vaporworx controller?



Thanks for sharing!



John



The balancer has clearance. We jogged the brake lines to allow a bigger lower pulley. We are going to notch the frame for more clearance.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200308/21c6fa3cc090598e2af2336497bd67e8.jpg



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[RdHuggr68]

The lower mounts are C6 Corvette on stock style pins. The weight of the cooling stack sits on mounts that bolts to the frame. The radiator, intercooler, ac condenser and fan as an assembly. It has some weight.

The side mount is a fabricated mount using a grommet. The radiator side has a turned pin. The other brakes is a fabricated mount. This constrains the rad for after but allows for expansion.

The system allows the radiator to float. I have failed a number of radiators do to ridged mounts. We want to it to have room to expand as it heats up.

Again look at a way a stock (New Car) radiator is mounted. Copy that.

Mark

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200308/de3a79f2889406260f37cdc6a41de3b4.jpg


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Mark, I always enjoy keeping up with your builds, very informative. The grommets for your radiator are they from McMaster-Carr? Thanks again

[Stielow]

Mark, I always enjoy keeping up with your builds, very informative. The grommets for your radiator are they from McMaster-Carr? Thanks again



Sorry yes McMaster Carr.


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[Jimbo1367]

Mark,
Where do you get your LED headlight from? P/N perhaps ? LOL

Thanks,
Jim

[JON Q]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200307/b9251787a5a3e8d2dd9a991542a2766f.jpg

Holley’s transmission crossmember.


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Hi Mark, what made you choose the Holley transmission crossmember over the design you’ve been doing in your past few builds?
Is it still a C&R radiator, did they do the fabrication on the lower and side mounts or is it another cool design of yours and Matt’s?

[Stielow]

Hi Mark, what made you choose the Holley transmission crossmember over the design you’ve been doing in your past few builds?

Is it still a C&R radiator, did they do the fabrication on the lower and side mounts or is it another cool design of yours and Matt’s?



Time and Money....

The “cool” design is very nice, but very labor intensive. The Holley crossmember is easier and less expensive.


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[camcojb]

Amazing work!! You have a color picked out yet Mark?

https://stielowengineering.com/lt5/

[214Chevy]

Niiiiiice!!

[WSSix]

Very nice! Will look great sitting next to Hellfire. Do we have a name yet? Brimstone?

[Ketzer]

White Knuckle? :drive:

[Frankenstine]

Mark, I have been following the build of all of your Camaro's top notch workmanship, the Holley crossmember did you use part number 12626HKR by chance, image on there web site looks a little different, and did you have to modify it for the Detroit Speed Subframe? prob will go this route on my build.

Thanks
Keith

[JD67SS]

white knuckle? :drive:

:lol:

[clill]

Fixed it.......

[glassman]

Looks like a wiring job I did ^^

Just lovely Mark....Can't wait to see er done. Won't be ready for this years tour will it?

[two-piece]

Looks great. Fantastic job.

[colorado80439]

Incredible work, what's better than a Stielow build on Lateral G.
I've asked this question on the LSX conversion topic and researched most builds with dry sump that I could find, but I'm looking for the best option of running -12 oil lines from an oil tank mounted in the passenger fender (in front of the door) to the pan of an LS7 with DSE subframe and headers, I would think I need positive gravity feed from the tank to the pan. Any input is greatly appreciated
Thanks Dave

[fleetus macmullitz]

To stop further #etch-a-sketch gone mad hate crime on a nice rendering...it could be painted the color of Charlie’s choice, then wrap it in white.

:thankyou:

[clill]

Mark would feel like I was ignoring him if I didn't chime in like this. He would expect nothing less...…..

[fleetus macmullitz]

Mark would feel like I was ignoring him if I didn't chime in like this. He would expect nothing less...…..

Kinda like #StockholmSyndrome?

:P

[jmac]

Ok, after seeing what Charlie did, I couldn't help myself.
Seeing Mark's car in white reminded me of my kids and how every so often they'll ask me to print something to color. It always ranges from flowers and mermaids to monster trucks and dinosaurs.
So I decided to print out Ben's sick artwork, gave one to each and told them to have at it.
First up is Claire, who just turned 6 this week. The red crown looking design on the fender is fire, and if you look to the right a little bit you'll see some faint yellow lightning bolts. :lol: She was very proud of her design, using her current "favorite" colors, that she signed the hood.

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2020/03/13/3B0A1E7E-F621-4416-B1F1-3D5EA4C935F0.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/HPEQT)

Next up is Nolan, who's 8.
His is pretty straightforward, don't know why he chose the base color he did, but he did manage to add a little green up front, which has always been his favorite color. He told me the number 12 on the door was to make it a race car. :lol:

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2020/03/13/32BE9FA4-7B39-4988-9841-DF5AE4F35F0F.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/HPxVS)

I hope you all get a kick out of this like I did. I'd like to apologize to Ben ahead of time, but I think his job is safe for a few more years.

And to Mark, if you'd like to use any of these designs, you have my consent. :lol: Thanks for contributing and always answering our questions!

[214Chevy]

This is cute. Kids keep us level and in line.

[JD67SS]

Next up is Nolan, who's 8.
His is pretty straightforward, don't know why he chose the base color he did, but he did manage to add a little green up front, which has always been his favorite color. He told me the number 12 on the door was to make it a race car. :lol:!

Nolan is on to something... I wonder if Foose snoops around here :thumbsup:

JD

[Stielow]

Fixed it.......



Do you know what I like about you......


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[Stielow]

Moving on to the induction tube. Because GM went to a bigger 95 mm throttle body on the LT5 we are going to a 4.5 inch induction tube.

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[colorado80439]

Incredible work, what's better than a Stielow build on Lateral G.
I've asked this question on the LSX conversion topic and researched most builds with dry sump that I could find, but I'm looking for the best option of running -12 oil lines from an oil tank mounted in the passenger fender (in front of the door) to the pan of an LS7 with DSE subframe and headers, I would think I need positive gravity feed from the tank to the pan. Any input is greatly appreciated
Thanks Dave

Anybody?

[Stielow]

Anybody?



I have mounted the dry sump tank in the passenger fender in front of the tire. (Where the battery used to be). The feed line ends up about 4 long and has to route over the DSE crossmember.

I did not have an issue doing it that way on Red Devil, Jackass 1.0, Camaro X and Mayhem.

My new set up putting it in the cowl significantly shortens the feed line. I have also upper the feed line to a -16 AN because I did not see a downside and it errors proofs the. Installation.

So to answer you question it does not need to gravity feed. But the guys who designed the system told me not to make the feed line more than 5 feet long if you stay with -12 AN.

People who think they can put an LS7 dry sump tank in the trunk you can not. I asked a few years ago. The oil pump was not designed to do that and it will oil starve.

Mark


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[jmac]

Beautiful. Do you have any pics of where the air filter element is tucked in to the fender well? Just curious to see what you did there. Is there a closeout panel and the filter is blocked off from the engine compartment, or is the filter element just sitting right on the end of the pipe?

Thanks!

[Stielow]

Beautiful. Do you have any pics of where the air filter element is tucked in to the fender well? Just curious to see what you did there. Is there a closeout panel and the filter is blocked off from the engine compartment, or is the filter element just sitting right on the end of the pipe?

Thanks!


https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200320/9c38bdf0355a3191a7bb09a76b2bbc90.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200320/2d984bb243b36f8bb51e45635df3b0cd.jpg


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[JD67SS]

Just curious... are you directing Matt and crew at every turn, or do they know what to do? It’s hard to tell based on the pics, and while I would guess you’re steering the ship, I just wondered how much direction you have to give them.

JD

[marine15Z28]

Is that tube aluminum or steel

[Stielow]

Is that tube aluminum or steel


Aluminum


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[Stielow]

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Aaron Oberle made me some fender emblems. Because I want them to fit the fender the are not flat. Curved in both directions. Not a simple part!

[Stielow]

Just curious... are you directing Matt and crew at every turn, or do they know what to do? It’s hard to tell based on the pics, and while I would guess you’re steering the ship, I just wondered how much direction you have to give them.

JD


Matt is more than capable and does build cars without my daily interaction. On my stuff I know how I want it. We work and communicate very well. Sometimes we do it my way and often he has a better idea and we do it his way. In all the projects we have done together I can only think of a couple items that had to be scrapped because it did not work out. Early on Matt like to make things “street roddy”. I like think functional and OE looking. He nails that. Look at my Blazer and Lillard’s S15. Looks like a prototype GM build. Killer work and attention to detail.

Matt thinks thought the whole build. He and his guys are very talented. Usually project creep comes from me.

So to answer your question, yes I communicate with Matt daily because I’m a control freak. Does he need me to nope.


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