Camaro LT5

[RdHuggr68]

I run a master battery disconnect in the trunks next to the battery. I’ve never fused the large power cable from the battery to the front of the car. In practice it would be a good idea. Not sure of the best way to do it.


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Mark, do you use a remote solenoid in the trunk? Also what route did you use to run your positive cable to the front?

[70w30]

Do you know what the airflow/cfm rating on that CTS-V fan might be?

Looking at laying down a rad in the nose so a lot of pull would be beneficial. Maybe even make a little downforce...

[andrewb70]

Do you know what the airflow/cfm rating on that CTS-V fan might be?

Looking at laying down a rad in the nose so a lot of pull would be beneficial. Maybe even make a little downforce...

GM rates their fans in watts, and the fan that Mark is using is 850watts. It wouldn't surprise me if it was over 6000cfm.

Andrew

[Stielow]

My maiden voyage to my buddies house Brad. It is alway good to go to somebody’s house that you know has tools. First drive was 75 miles. I had one loose bolt that allowed the splines sway bar arm to fall off.

Fixed it and drove it back to Sled Alley. Off the the chassis dyno this week.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210303/736bebbce9b2e17b8f8fbca0b8a63931.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210303/5daa51e5c117da5f70cc538a796b0a58.jpg


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[randy]

Rubber mallet to push the bar back in the splines huh? Been there done that lol

[PTAddict]

Awesome cars and awesome people. That's what this hobby is all about.

[Stielow]

This is my “Race Track” screen. One of the biggest reasons I did Dakota Digital is so I could get this set up. Full analog gauges plus a DIC (Drivers Information Center) that shows - Tire pressures, Engine Oil Temp, Diff Temp and Trans Temp. The only think I don’t have is fuel pressure on the dash. It is on the CAN bus and I thought it would display. I can data log it and look at it later which is sometime better. Something else to sort out.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210303/037f667649b6ec18e56e70d8265eae2c.jpg


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[Stielow]

Mark, do you use a remote solenoid in the trunk? Also what route did you use to run your positive cable to the front?


To pop the deck lid I use a Year One trunk popper. I have tried other ones and they don’t have enough power to do it.

On the main positive battery cable it runs inside the car. The battery is in the trunk and the cable runs down the rear wheel tub then in the wiring trough under the passenger door sill. Then across the toe pan to a pass through.

Mark


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[RdHuggr68]

Mark, I didn't explain myself on the solenoid. I meant a remote starter solenoid in the trunk so the pos. cable is only hot during startup. BTW your car looks great, can't wait to see the dyno specs!!

[camcojb]

This is my “Race Track” screen. One of the biggest reasons I did Dakota Digital is so I could get this set up. Full analog gauges plus a DIC (Drivers Information Center) that shows - Tire pressures, Engine Oil Temp, Diff Temp and Trans Temp. The only think I don’t have is fuel pressure on the dash. It is on the CAN bus and I thought it would display. I can data log it and look at it later which is sometime better. Something else to sort out.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210303/037f667649b6ec18e56e70d8265eae2c.jpg


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Also why I went with Dakota Digital, great looking stuff and the ability to do way more than standard gauges.

[Duder]

That white is the perfect shade of white! Did we ever find the name of which VW white it is?

[EVIL SS]

That white is the perfect shade of white! Did we ever find the name of which VW white it is?

It looks exactly like my old 1989 VW GTI and they called it Alpine White L90E paint code but, Maybe it is newer paint code.

[Stielow]

It looks exactly like my old 1989 VW GTI and they called it Alpine White L90E paint code but, Maybe it is newer paint code.

VW Cortina White LB9A 1992 - 2020.

[Jim Hoke]

Happy for you Mark......... Long road to get to this point, but I think all of us would agree that your cars continue to evolve and improve........... Nice job!

[JohnUlaszek]

Now that I think about I think you are correct on the tank vent. I’ll add a overflow tank in the tank before the TooMuch canister. [emoji848]


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Mark,
Overflow isn’t needed, but just one vent on the filler neck and one on the body of the tank, both lines should meet at a T fitting and then a single line up to the IIMUCH VSB.

[clill]

The problem I run into with the vent hose hooked up to the filler neck is with a full tank when accelerating the fuel goes up the vent hose into the Too Much canister to the point it fills it up and overflows out thru it's vent.

[69hugger]

The problem I run into with the vent hose hooked up to the filler neck is with a full tank when accelerating the fuel goes up the vent hose into the Too Much canister to the point it fills it up and overflows out thru it's vent.

...A condition known as II Much acceleration! 😁

[Ns RS]

Mark what’s the verdict on the tilton in comparison to the dyad clutch? Car looks great

[Blown353]

Mark what’s the verdict on the tilton in comparison to the dyad clutch? Car looks great

Very interested in your verdict as well, I'm also eyeballing the Tilton ST-246 for my build but haven't seen too many reviews for them.

I had a Mcleod RXT on the shelf but sold it after driving a few that I installed in other people's cars, didn't care for how grabby they were when taking off and also didn't care for the amount of floater rattle in neutral. Hoping the Tilton is better in both areas.

Recently installed a Monster LT1-S twin disc in a supercharged 2006 GTO, and it's a really nice clutch. Drives like a stock GM clutch in terms of effort, engagement smoothness, and noise, but it should-- it's a heavily reworked GM clutch.

Trying to decide between the Tilton ST-246 or a Monster LT1-S triple disc in my car.

[Stielow]

Very interested in your verdict as well, I'm also eyeballing the Tilton ST-246 for my build but haven't seen too many reviews for them.

I had a Mcleod RXT on the shelf but sold it after driving a few that I installed in other people's cars, didn't care for how grabby they were when taking off and also didn't care for the amount of floater rattle in neutral. Hoping the Tilton is better in both areas.

Recently installed a Monster LT1-S twin disc in a supercharged 2006 GTO, and it's a really nice clutch. Drives like a stock GM clutch in terms of effort, engagement smoothness, and noise, but it should-- it's a heavily reworked GM clutch.

Trying to decide between the Tilton ST-246 or a Monster LT1-S triple disc in my car.


The Tilton is dead quite with the clutch pushed in. The pedal force is about the same as the DYAD. The launch is smooth and chatter free most times. If you lug it and don’t give the engine a few revs it can chatter a small amount. If adapted my launches a little and add 500 rpm and it is smooth.

So far the hi rpm reserve is very good. I have not tracked it yet but form the little bit I have drove it I like it. (I only have 200 miles on the car).

DYAD 7.25/10 rating. Negative rattles at idle when it has some miles on it. It too can chatter sometimes. Need a custom throw out bearing. Great high rpm reserve. Work awesome on the track. No issues.

Tilton 8/10 rating Does not rattle at idle. Does not need a special throw out bearing. Had a small chatter at a very soft launch. I have not tracked it yet.

Mark


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[Stielow]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210308/dbe4ad02db8ebc8f69324fe3a300dcb7.jpg

For what it is worth we chassis dyno-ed my car on Friday. 812 HP to the tires. On winter blend 93 octane fuel.

I have put 200 miles on the car so far and did get a chance to stand on it yesterday. First off it is sketchy fast on 32 degree tires. With less torque than the 427 engines it is a bit easier to pedal to keep straight.

The high boost 6.2 liter sounds different from the lower boost 7.0 liter. It revs quickly and hits hard. My un-scientific test of a sprint to 150 mph this car is on pair with my past projects. (Of course closed course it a professional driver). [emoji57]

On the prototype mufflers that we had made. They are LOUD. Like squirrel dropping out of tree loud. Like setting of my neighbors car alarms LOUD. You know LOUD. On a positive note it has a very deep note at idle.

I will get Hooker to redesign the mufflers and add resonators. We are doing a little R&D for Hooker Black heart.


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[Stielow]

Mark,
Overflow isn’t needed, but just one vent on the filler neck and one on the body of the tank, both lines should meet at a T fitting and then a single line up to the IIMUCH VSB.


Been there tried that. We added a 1 quart over flow tank in the trunk. It is the way highest point in the system. Then we vent off the top of that to the Too Much canister.

I’m sick and tired of the fuel puking out. It seems to work great. I fully filled my tank with very cold fuel and then parked it in my heated garage. No fuel smell and no signs of over flow.

Done. Fixed it. I hope. We will find out this summer.


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[Stielow]

Ok I have 200 miles on Apex now. Getting some bugs worked out.

Clutch is working smoother. Katech has the cal closer. Car hits the tires fairly hard.

Low effort burn out. On a 60 degree MI day it seemed like the thing to do.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210309/76e61a50b30986c699f28967481ca87d.jpg


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[Blown353]

The Tilton is dead quite with the clutch pushed in. The pedal force is about the same as the DYAD. The launch is smooth and chatter free most times. If you lug it and don’t give the engine a few revs it can chatter a small amount. If adapted my launches a little and add 500 rpm and it is smooth.

So far the hi rpm reserve is very good. I have not tracked it yet but form the little bit I have drove it I like it. (I only have 200 miles on the car).

DYAD 7.25/10 rating. Negative rattles at idle when it has some miles on it. It too can chatter sometimes. Need a custom throw out bearing. Great high rpm reserve. Work awesome on the track. No issues.

Tilton 8/10 rating Does not rattle at idle. Does not need a special throw out bearing. Had a small chatter at a very soft launch. I have not tracked it yet.

Mark

Good info, thanks. The Tilton sounds very promising, and at a reasonable price too. Look forward to more info after you get more miles on it. You went with the organic discs and not the cerametallic discs, correct?

[sleepertime]

Ok I have 200 miles on Apex now. Getting some bugs worked out.

Clutch is working smoother. Katech has the cal closer. Car hits the tires fairly hard.

Low effort burn out. On a 60 degree MI day it seemed like the thing to do.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210309/76e61a50b30986c699f28967481ca87d.jpg


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Mark, It never get's old. The perfect stress reliever...

[JohnUlaszek]

The Ricks tank has a vent system inside the tank to help. We also add a fitting to the filler neck to help prevent fuel from pushing out of the tank. With all of that said if you 100% fill the tank on a hot day then park the car in the hot sun it might puke over out the 2 Much canister.

The issue is the Ricks tanks and most aftermarket tanks do not have room for expansion.

This one of the only issues we had with Charlies new Riv.

The 2 Much canisters do a great job with fuel vapors but no pure fuel.

I may add an expansion tank to the project before the 2 Much canister to keep raw fuel out of it.

Thanks for the comment I almost forgot about that.

Mark


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I’m going to humbly disagree with Mark. The older version of the Rick’s tank uses an internal manifold/tube which may cause the tank to pressurize and push liquid fuel out of the vent port when full . The internal vent tube seems to act like a straw that can submerge the vent port in fuel when the tank is full. Newer Rick’s tanks appear to have abandoned the internal manifold and switched to a two port design. A port on the filler neck and one strategically placed on the tank running to a T and then to the VSB or VSR has worked well for many II MUCH customers even in road race applications.
The Riveria also had the internal manifold design, and overflowed as I predicted in conversation with Sled Alley after I saw a picture of the tank on the build thread.
If you scroll to @motobrewmaster ‘s post in this thread you can see one of the older Rick’s tanks modified as described — he plugged the original port location on the front of the tank and added three new ports. Three is probably overkill but certainly can’t hurt.
https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/136232-Venting-tank-or-filler-neck?p=1353237#post1353237
That said, Mark took a sledgehammer to the problem and is happy with how things are working for him. I’m happy to continue this discussion with anybody that is interested privately.

[Stielow]

Next stop Scottsdale AZ for the Barrett Jackson Cup car show.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210310/e114ee0db8446e30a46b29584ae6bd84.jpg


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[jeff71]

Good thing Charlie hates white or he'd probably keep it in AZ.

[SSLance]

Next stop Scottsdale AZ for the Barrett Jackson Cup car show.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210310/e114ee0db8446e30a46b29584ae6bd84.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Hmmm... I need to look this event up, see if I can make it over to the East Valley for it.

[randy]

Agree. On my older ricks tank with the tube I had overflowing issues and my overflow would hose fuel. With my new ricks tank and 10 or 11 gallons of gas I have zero issues

I’m going to humbly disagree with Mark. The older version of the Rick’s tank uses an internal manifold/tube which may cause the tank to pressurize and push liquid fuel out of the vent port when full . The internal vent tube seems to act like a straw that can submerge the vent port in fuel when the tank is full. Newer Rick’s tanks appear to have abandoned the internal manifold and switched to a two port design. A port on the filler neck and one strategically placed on the tank running to a T and then to the VSB or VSR has worked well for many II MUCH customers even in road race applications.
The Riveria also had the internal manifold design, and overflowed as I predicted in conversation with Sled Alley after I saw a picture of the tank on the build thread.
If you scroll to @motobrewmaster ‘s post in this thread you can see one of the older Rick’s tanks modified as described — he plugged the original port location on the front of the tank and added three new ports. Three is probably overkill but certainly can’t hurt.
https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/136232-Venting-tank-or-filler-neck?p=1353237#post1353237
That said, Mark took a sledgehammer to the problem and is happy with how things are working for him. I’m happy to continue this discussion with anybody that is interested privately.

[clill]

Good thing Charlie hates white or he'd probably keep it in AZ.

Wraps are my friend. I meant to say white is my favorite color.

[65 Drop Top]

Mark, excellent build, as usual. But I demand a tri-five for your next build, thanks. 😂

[clill]

Like this one ?

[65 Drop Top]

Like this one ?

Can’t go wrong with a ‘55. Is that next?

[Peter McMahon]

I hope so!

[214Chevy]

A 55?! :wow::wow::wow::wow: I won't believe it until I see it....

[raustinss]

367 camaros , one chevelle (and no more ) one blazer and ....... now maybe a tri five ?

[toastermagnet]

Like this one ?

I for one, would love to see Mark build a 55 Chevy!

[fleetus macmullitz]

To see the engineering that Mark puts into the 1st gens go into a ‘55...that would be a treat!

[CHAZMO1986]

That 55!!!!

[clill]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210318/cc4c82abd04d0d9d4a8951fa8f4b9fa3.jpg

Yes it's been off the road for over 30 years.
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[65 Drop Top]

Like this one ?
So cool! I was just kidding around, but now I’m super excited to see this one. I’m building a ‘55 now, with AME chassis, LS3, T56, etc. so I’ll definitely be following along with this one

[RDuke]

Very cool. Love the 55 idea. I'm currently doing a '56 hardtop with a RS fast track and Wegner 1khp LS.

[65 Drop Top]

Very cool. Love the 55 idea. I'm currently doing a '56 hardtop with a RS fast track and Wegner 1khp LS.

Nice! Build thread?

[RDuke]

Nice! Build thread?

https://lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php?t=58955

[Stielow]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210320/43c2d619a95983c5716d27da2e6bf549.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210320/7e223122e4289204436f1a16a1d615d7.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210320/c5756a881734b9dfe0c67286d7a80c51.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210320/bc72a1bfb9542fd43d0c641bd853ddc2.jpg
We made it to move in at Barrett Jackson Cup


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[redfire69]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201206/84ad6558581b1474a0f892bb388eec7b.jpg
A little complex but Scott at Sled Alley is really keeping the wiring clean.


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Mark, looks awesome! Quick question, where did you source the mounting board and clamp hardware?

Thanks!! Ron

[Stielow]

Mark, looks awesome! Quick question, where did you source the mounting board and clamp hardware?

Thanks!! Ron


Sled Alley built the board and the wire clamps are just P clamps.

Mark


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[Musclerodz]

Mark, looks awesome! Quick question, where did you source the mounting board and clamp hardware?

Thanks!! Ron
Mounting board looks like ABS sheet

[214Chevy]

Mounting board looks like ABS sheet

I agree and was thinking the same thing...cuz I was thinking about stealing the idea. :D:D

[clill]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210323/ba166f1947c571e0dfbf3938c38e6b1f.jpg


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[clill]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210323/54686c4af927e45cbecdd59d45cfba64.jpg
Great trade


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[Rodknock]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210323/54686c4af927e45cbecdd59d45cfba64.jpg
Great trade


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Stalker!!! :lol:

[Tinker]

Mark, car is looking great.
Have you had enough seat time to evaluate the QA1 shocks yet?
I'm very interested to know because I am in need (hopefully sooner than later) of some longer front shocks on my Firebird.

[Spiffav8]

I agree and was thinking the same thing...cuz I was thinking about stealing the idea. :D:D

Mike is way ahead of you on this one. :lol:

[clill]

https://www.imsa.com/news/2021/04/20/gms-stielow-steering-future-imsa-plans-for-corvette-cadillac/?fbclid=IwAR2nu-RYjK80CB657-WHDykA89y1Kztb6srBuDkDdz23pfUfHyXb5kXw2NM

[Stielow]

https://generalmotors.wd5.myworkdayjobs.com/Careers_GM/job/Pontiac-Engineering-Center-GPS---Bldg-E/Group-Leader---Dyno-Systems-and-Instrumentation---GM-Performance-and-Racing-Center_JR-000033730?fbclid=IwAR2UizipooIxDDeW4HAhAd72w6oPipd lAd7TIt1hSY_TyyXIcuwdQI0TyYE


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[214Chevy]

https://generalmotors.wd5.myworkdayjobs.com/Careers_GM/job/Pontiac-Engineering-Center-GPS---Bldg-E/Group-Leader---Dyno-Systems-and-Instrumentation---GM-Performance-and-Racing-Center_JR-000033730?fbclid=IwAR2UizipooIxDDeW4HAhAd72w6oPipd lAd7TIt1hSY_TyyXIcuwdQI0TyYE


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I'm gonna apply solely for the GM discount... :sarcasm_smiley:

[ErikLS2]

I'm gonna apply solely for the GM discount... :sarcasm_smiley:

Haha!! I get it, not all it's cracked up to be for sure.

[k7king]

any pictures of how you modified the mounting on the power steering tank.

Thanks

[Stielow]

any pictures of how you modified the mounting on the power steering tank.

Thanks


https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210503/c619b8fb3d241030a5330cc140c1b418.jpg
We modified a stick Corvette LS9 power steering reservoir.


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[srode1]

There's an LT5 controller 19418270 isn't available until July (perhaps the global chip shortage) and the 19370666 for the manual transmission. Do you by chance know which you used and what the difference is between them?

[Stielow]

There's an LT5 controller 19418270 isn't available until July (perhaps the global chip shortage) and the 19370666 for the manual transmission. Do you by chance know which you used and what the difference is between them?

Well one is for a manual and the other for a 8 speed auto. Different cals.

The hold up is making the harnesses. The suppliers are slammed. They are on order and should be made soon.

[camcojb]

Well one is for a manual and the other for a 8 speed auto. Different cals.

The hold up is making the harnesses. The suppliers are slammed. They are on order and should be made soon.

Do you know which is for the manual? I think the descriptions on the net list both for manuals, which is why there is confusion.

[fleetus macmullitz]

https://i.postimg.cc/W1Lbr7B7/55-BF92-B2-F246-4-AAE-BFD3-BA205-FE095-FE.jpg (https://postimg.cc/Cz7gpbLZ)
https://i.postimg.cc/7YTZfRW6/A55750E9-2FD6-47D9-A653-309A635F5EFF.jpg (https://postimg.cc/3dYTqt75)

[srode1]

Do you know which is for the manual? I think the descriptions on the net list both for manuals, which is why there is confusion.I called a performance dealer this morning and found out they are just different suppliers. The part number was changed make it easier to know which supplier it came from, both are for manual transmissions.

[camcojb]

I called a performance dealer this morning and found out they are just different suppliers. The part number was changed make it easier to know which supplier it came from, both are for manual transmissions.

Sounds like you should grab the one you can. Getting parts is becoming a big issue nowadays.

[srode1]

I forgot to post these. Looks like a nice part. I won’t know until I drive it a bit.




https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201224/bcf069ae16f5fb31f9350f133b6b62d7.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201224/028453c48513fc1338616ee43e33a771.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkWhat lift bracket is that you have on the engine - right side yellow?

[Stielow]

What lift bracket is that you have on the engine - right side yellow?

Those are the production lift "Hooks" from the assembly plant. I purchased those a long time ago from SMC in Auburn Hill. MI. Not sure if he has anymore. SMC dealt in GM obsolete stock mainly from Corvette. It was great. New parts half the retail.

[dontlifttoshift]

Thoughts on that clutch?

[camcojb]

Thoughts on that clutch?

X2... still have not been able to secure a DYAD.

[Stielow]

Thoughts on that clutch?

So far I like the Tilton Clutch. Zero rattles. Easy to drive. Great High RPM release.

[srode1]

Those are the production lift "Hooks" from the assembly plant. I purchased those a long time ago from SMC in Auburn Hill. MI. Not sure if he has anymore. SMC dealt in GM obsolete stock mainly from Corvette. It was great. New parts half the retail.Thanks, he had one set left, got it.

[camcojb]

So far I like the Tilton Clutch. Zero rattles. Easy to drive. Great High RPM release.

Sprung hub?

[Stielow]

Sprung hub?


Yes spring hub and organic clutch material

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210507/8046623e856cb256f070a2f0cf4e6064.jpg


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[camcojb]

Yes spring hub and organic clutch material

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210507/8046623e856cb256f070a2f0cf4e6064.jpg


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Thanks Mark.

[Swain]

Like this one ?

There she is, we had that car forever at our shop :D

[clill]

Slumming it on Barrett-Jackson Road Tourhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210515/b8d78aa5170250e09a42b5a0552fcf8e.jpg


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[camcojb]

Slumming it on Barrett-Jackson Road Tour




Why aren't you driving Hellfire?

[WSSix]

He said he's slumming it.

Safe travels!

[dhutton]

Why aren't you driving Hellfire?

Better yet where is the Riviera?

Don

[clill]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210519/96b99abe8ad95199253a5aac238ac2a8.jpg


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[clill]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210519/e0f10f93e38007231a0f45d22f837e71.jpg


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[Stielow]

https://digital.allchevyperformance.com/issue/june-2021re/stielows-latest-and-greatest/


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[garage_engineer]

Great article Mark and another great build. I'm sure you get this all the time but the quality and attention to detail of your builds in a huge inspiration to me. As an engineer myself I can appreciate the effort and time it takes to make a classic car perform the way yours do. I also try to echo your strategy of using as many OEM, factory tested parts in my build as I know how much testing goes into developing them! I'm up in New England but hope to see one of your builds in person one day!

[bdahlg68]

Great article! How are the QA1's so far?

[srode1]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191219/a2140557fbedb1b8c8aa79701bc34f5c.jpg

Installing a C&R Racing Rad.

Trying a new mounting strategy after failing a couple.




Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkLooking at the two inlet/outlet holes on the DS of the radiator, can i assume you ditched the stock oil cooler due to clearance issues and are running the engine oil through the radiator for cooling?

[Stielow]

Looking at the two inlet/outlet holes on the DS of the radiator, can i assume you ditched the stock oil cooler due to clearance issues and are running the engine oil through the radiator for cooling?

Correct, we removed the factory LT5 oil cooler and used the one in the C&R Racing radiator.

[cpd004]

OEMs have a"dead man" in a fuel tank......basically an inverted pie tin with a pinhole in the top surface.
When you thought you'd filled the tank, air is still trapped in the pie dish void and the fuel nozzle cuts out. The pinhole allows controlled venting to occur, so that when the fuel increases in temperature and volume (now that it's out of the ground), it swells into that void and doesn't puke out the vent lines.
THATS WHY YOU DON'T TOP OFF AFTER THE FIRST CLICK.

TOOmuch vent chamber gives the liquid/air time to settle out and is a great feature........but can't cope with massive west-coast changes in temp out of the ground vs. cooking in 95* ambient.

Aftermarket tanks don't have this feature.
Competing claims to the largest volume compared to the competition?

Carl?

I'm sure it may be still early to tell, but we've had a few 80+ degree days, so wondering how the fuel tank system is working out as far as smell/expansion, etc.?

[EVIL SS]

Mark, what is this?

[Stielow]

I'm sure it may be still early to tell, but we've had a few 80+ degree days, so wondering how the fuel tank system is working out as far as smell/expansion, etc.?


My tank set up worked with no issues.


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[Stielow]

Mark, what is this?


It is a power steering fluid filter. Good idea that did not work. I removed the filter cartridge and left the can to keep the hoses the same.

Might of been too fine of a mesh.

Mark


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[EVIL SS]

It is a power steering fluid filter. Good idea that did not work. I removed the filter cartridge and left the can to keep the hoses the same.

Might of been too fine of a mesh.

Mark

Got it, thanks! Car came out great!! Thanks for sharing!

[srode1]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200911/b69884bc834017d0ab9314746e162bd8.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200911/7e95d8a23782759c1652067a3f985c62.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200911/ddbcb7ca285dda1d409527a78889f5d9.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200911/f981b3b2e46c48f3e05103e7057f5e32.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200911/03253e8fec1a3909110f5d365144345e.jpg

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You used 2 intercooler pumps but one intercooler radiator . The LT5 ZR1 has two intercoolers which are smaller which is why there are 2 pumps in it I would guess. With one intercooler in your car, do you use 2 pumps to increase the flow and improve cooling or to help make sure both sides have equal flow? I ask because the crate engine controller is set up for one pump, the ZL1 pump from what I can glean from the documentation.

Did you run both your pumps off the factory harness by tapping into it and adding a plug for the 2nd pump?

[Stielow]

You used 2 intercooler pumps but one intercooler radiator . The LT5 ZR1 has two intercoolers which are smaller which is why there are 2 pumps in it I would guess. With one intercooler in your car, do you use 2 pumps to increase the flow and improve cooling or to help make sure both sides have equal flow? I ask because the crate engine controller is set up for one pump, the ZL1 pump from what I can glean from the documentation.

Did you run both your pumps off the factory harness by tapping into it and adding a plug for the 2nd pump?


I added 2 nd pump because my engine makes over 900 HP. I reworked the wiring in the fuse box and up gauged the wiring to run 2 pumps.

The team that did the create engine development claim one pump is good. I used 2 like the stock ZR1.

Mark


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[camcojb]

Like this one ?

So do I need to make a new page on Stielow Engineering (https://stielowengineering.com/)?

[clill]

Apparently https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210602/ae65eb984c4f50902954303e2d00cc94.jpg


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[Spiffav8]

Apparently https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210602/ae65eb984c4f50902954303e2d00cc94.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Approved. This should be fun to watch.

[jeff71]

If that was an even trade for Apex I would say mark won that deal. Because nobody likes a white 69 Camaro except Charlie....... :poke::lmao:

[Ketzer]

Apparently https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210602/ae65eb984c4f50902954303e2d00cc94.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This is very awesomesauce....

[JD67SS]

This is very awesomesauce....

Awesome as it stands right now... please don’t paint it white :peepwall:

[srode1]

Because the DSE kit is based around a 4th gen Camaro master. I just copy the 4th Gen Camaro clutch pedal geometry. I purchased a stock 1992 Camaro Clutch pedal along time before all these stuff was available so I just use it as a template.

Here is the 69 vs 1991 pedal.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200105/8271035f0b9a3e496892df1366144c13.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkCurious, did you install a top of clutch switch or bypass it with a jumper to fool the controller? I didn't see any reference or pictures on it, but might have missed it, or maybe its part of the pedal system you used.

[Stielow]

Curious, did you install a top of clutch switch or bypass it with a jumper to fool the controller? I didn't see any reference or pictures on it, but might have missed it, or maybe its part of the pedal system you used.


Yes I did because I needed it for the cruise control also


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[89 RS]

Great build Mark, always raising the bar!

[srode1]

I had D&D Performance tuned up my T56 Magnum. Their shop is 5 miles from my house and they are great to deal with.

Off memory replaced all the nylon sliders with brass and added better synchronizers where needed.

I also have 6th gear swapped to a 0.5 ratio to make cruising on the highway at 80 mph at around 1840 rpm.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalkhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200424/f816ea940138b1185ef640ec4adf8f53.jpgDo you remember how you dealt with the 40 tooth reluctor ring requirement in the T56 magnum or if you used the Super Magnum with the 40 tooth ring installed? I have read some folks using HP tuner to adjust the 12 tooth ring that comes in the T56 to make it compatible with the GMPP controllers, just curious which route you ended up going.

[randy]

Do you remember how you dealt with the 40 tooth reluctor ring requirement in the T56 magnum or if you used the Super Magnum with the 40 tooth ring installed? I have read some folks using HP tuner to adjust the 12 tooth ring that comes in the T56 to make it compatible with the GMPP controllers, just curious which route you ended up going.

Can’t just change the value to 12 tooth. Slight math involved. I’ve done 4 of them now this way. I have a post on here on what to do

[EVIL SS]

Do you remember how you dealt with the 40 tooth reluctor ring requirement in the T56 magnum or if you used the Super Magnum with the 40 tooth ring installed? I have read some folks using HP tuner to adjust the 12 tooth ring that comes in the T56 to make it compatible with the GMPP controllers, just curious which route you ended up going.

Not sure if this helps you but, I bought one of these for my T56 magnum

https://www.ebay.com/itm/164002086493

[srode1]

Not sure if this helps you but, I bought one of these for my T56 magnum

https://www.ebay.com/itm/164002086493how difficult is it to install that?

[EVIL SS]

how difficult is it to install that?

I haven't done it yet but, it looks easy. It comes with directions but, I think they post them on their ad too.

[srode1]

I haven't done it yet but, it looks easy. It comes with directions but, I think they post them on their ad too.There's some pictures in there - look forward to hearing how it goes for you. It does look easy if it's not a press fit.

[colorado80439]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nhPaWIeULKk

[raustinss]

why spam this with that video or am i missing something

[ArisESQ]

why spam this with that video or am i missing something

I think it's just a joke.

Stylo = Stielow

[67XR7]

Mark,

Now that you’ve had some time to drive

Thoughts on the qa1 shocks?

Thoughts on the stealth gear set for 9”?

Mufflers too loud?

Thanks for the feedback?

[srode1]

And also the clutch and stock tremec shifter - no leaks, quiet, clutch holding?

[ArisESQ]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210126/8763784254c94b54fbcbf158e67d5595.jpg



Was just browsing the thread and noticed that this car doesn't have downbars off the firewall or a full cage. Any reason you chose to go with just a roll bar? Does the DSE chassis provide adequate rigidity on its own?

[Stielow]

Mark,

Now that you’ve had some time to drive

Thoughts on the qa1 shocks?

Thoughts on the stealth gear set for 9”?

Mufflers too loud?

Thanks for the feedback?

I like the QA1 shock. Once I read the instructions they are easy to set up. I went with the softest valving. I forget where I had them for settings.

I have a OE Ford gear in this car. Set up by GearFX. Still loud.

The new mufflers are "Hot Rod" quite. I am still looking for something quieter, but I'm getting old and I am tired of loud cars. I have tinnitus from all the louds stuff I have done all my life. I want my hot rods to be quieter.

Mark

[Stielow]

And also the clutch and stock tremec shifter - no leaks, quiet, clutch holding?

The Tilton street clutch works great. Smooth pick up, no rattles, good effort. I would buy it again. Nice parts.

I like the T56 Magnum stock shifter. Good throws, good effort. If you want it to feel like a gun bolt, take the trans to D&D Performance and have all the shift shoes swapped from nylon to brass! Feels great. You get some gear shift buzz but very solid feeling.

[jeff71]

Mark,

Since you went away from the JRI’s I’m curious how the new setup is working out along with the mufflers.

[Stielow]

Was just browsing the thread and noticed that this car doesn't have downbars off the firewall or a full cage. Any reason you chose to go with just a roll bar? Does the DSE chassis provide adequate rigidity on its own?

First off, my roll bar is not legal for any type of racing. It is a solid anchor point for the shoulder belts for the 5/6 point harness.

I think the DSE subframe and the DSE sub frame connectors give the car a good feel and has been stiff enough for everything I do. The "Cage" is good enough to find the body if I crash it hard. I'm fairly sure if I have a big crash in one of these cars it will not be good.

If you are worried about safety buy a new car. Way safer. I have crashed both, and a new Camaro is way better in a crash than a 1969 Camaro.

Not a Camaro but you get the idea.

C_r5UJrxcck



Mark

[67_camaroRS]

I like the QA1 shock. Once I read the instructions they are easy to set up. I went with the softest valving. I forget where I had them for settings.

I have a OE Ford gear in this car. Set up by GearFX. Still loud.

The new mufflers are "Hot Rod" quite. I am still looking for something quieter, but I'm getting old and I am tired of loud cars. I have tinnitus from all the louds stuff I have done all my life. I want my hot rods to be quieter.

Mark

Have you tried Magnaflow mufflers? They are pretty tame in my opinion. Coming from a young guy.

[ArisESQ]

First off, my roll bar is not legal for any type of racing. It is a solid anchor point for the shoulder belts for the 5/6 point harness.

I think the DSE subframe and the DSE sub frame connectors give the car a good feel and has been stiff enough for everything I do. The "Cage" is good enough to find the body if I crash it hard. I'm fairly sure if I have a big crash in one of these cars it will not be good.

If you are worried about safety buy a new car. Way safer. I have crashed both, and a new Camaro is way better in a crash than a 1969 Camaro.

Not a Camaro but you get the idea.

C_r5UJrxcck


Mark


Thanks Mark - not really concerned about it as a safety issue, mostly just interested in the improvement in performance/chassis rigidity. I noticed that a few of your more recent builds seem to skip a full cage and instead have just a roll bar. Was curious if the full cage cars feel better on track.

[jmac]

Because the LT5 ECM is looking for a clutch switch and I’m adding Cruise control I added a clutch switch also while I was making stuff.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200105/1e3da8780e9a144a61bb05359dd3b45f.jpg

My disclaimer. This works for me and there maybe other ways to do it. I have used this system on the last 5 Camaros with zero issues. I then to revert back to “what do GM do” for a lot of my solutions.

It is amazing the the 1969 clutch pedal and the 1991 pedal are the same length. These setup coupled with a Centerforce clutch make the clutch pedal feel like a stock Camaro.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi Mark,

Quick question, the additional switch you added to the clutch pedal, is that just like a brake light switch? I'm looking to add this to mine as well.

Thanks!

John

[joeko23]

That’s exactly a brake light switch. I also added this switch to my clutch in my 69 Camaro because I installed a push button start and didn’t want the car to start in gear.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/BRAND-NEW-BRAKE-LIGHT-SWITCH-FITS-CHEVROLET-GMC-K5-BLAZER-SLS66-/362999864511?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

[srode1]

That’s exactly a brake light switch. I also added this switch to my clutch in my 69 Camaro because I installed a push button start and didn’t want the car to start in gear.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/BRAND-NEW-BRAKE-LIGHT-SWITCH-FITS-CHEVROLET-GMC-K5-BLAZER-SLS66-/362999864511?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0The stock pedals have a clutch safety switch, but they look for the clutch all the way depressed to start. This one is set up as the top of clutch switch which senses when you just start to get the clutch moving down, not disengaged yet. What's not clear to me is what brakelight switch he used since the ECM is looking for an open signal for top of clutch to defuel, and most brakelight switches are normally open and actuation closes the circuit. Maybe he used a relay to change the signal to the ECM. One switch I found that will work is ACDELCO D862C, it has 2 sets of contacts, one for normally open and one for normally closed. From the installation instructions:

The calibration included in the ECM is for a manual transmission application. The pair of wires labeled top of travel clutch switch must be wired used. This should not be used as a bottom of travel clutch switch or neutral safety clutch switch - do not use as a switch to prevent starter engagement without fully depressing the clutch. The top of clutch switch is used as in input to the ECM to briefly disable fuel when the clutch is depressed, which helps decelerate the engine and makes upshifting easier and quicker. A compatible clutch switch will have two pins which provide a closed circuit when the clutch pedal is fully released and an open circuit as soon as the clutch pedal is partially depressed.

[jmac]

I did not know that the ECM for the LT5 required that signal. I thought Mark was using that clutch switch just for the Dakota Digital cruise control to be able to disengage cruise mode when depressed.

I spoke to Dakota Digital today and they said all I need is another brake switch.

I'm sure Mark will chime in and let us know how he got that signal the LT5 ECM required.

[Stielow]

I did not know that the ECM for the LT5 required that signal. I thought Mark was using that clutch switch just for the Dakota Digital cruise control to be able to disengage cruise mode when depressed.

I spoke to Dakota Digital today and they said all I need is another brake switch.

I'm sure Mark will chime in and let us know how he got that signal the LT5 ECM required.

The LT4 and LT5 have a top of travel input in the harness. I used an older style brake switch that have two sets of contacts. One sets of normally open and one set normally closed. I think it was from a 2nd gen Camaro with cruise.

Something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Standard-Motor-Products-SLS159T-Stoplight/dp/B004NKYHGG/ref=asc_df_B004NKYHGG/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=390793851744&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1143947956340481338&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1019250&hvtargid=pla-843401827852&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=81740139242&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=390793851744&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1143947956340481338&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1019250&hvtargid=pla-843401827852

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/prf-80176?seid=srese1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAnaeNBhCUARIsABEee8UBFKvkxjwurlf3bSpN x60KF5w2xqBqMt5hUv8-Du73Xcq-yr1xG7caAoUdEALw_wcB

[CarlC]

The Tilton street clutch works great. Smooth pick up, no rattles, good effort. I would buy it again. Nice parts.


Is the OEM throwout bearing used or the Tilton? I'm pretty skeptical on non-OE/non-preloaded TOB's but Tilton swears by their part.

[Stielow]

Is the OEM throwout bearing used or the Tilton? I'm pretty skeptical on non-OE/non-preloaded TOB's but Tilton swears by their part.


It is the production Camaro throw out bearing!

Works great!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[andrewb70]

The LT4 and LT5 have a top of travel input in the harness. I used an older style brake switch that have two sets of contacts. One sets of normally open and one set normally closed. I think it was from a 2nd gen Camaro with cruise.

Something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Standard-Motor-Products-SLS159T-Stoplight/dp/B004NKYHGG/ref=asc_df_B004NKYHGG/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=390793851744&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1143947956340481338&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1019250&hvtargid=pla-843401827852&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=81740139242&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=390793851744&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1143947956340481338&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1019250&hvtargid=pla-843401827852

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/prf-80176?seid=srese1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAnaeNBhCUARIsABEee8UBFKvkxjwurlf3bSpN x60KF5w2xqBqMt5hUv8-Du73Xcq-yr1xG7caAoUdEALw_wcB

What exactly does the input do?

Andrew

[dhutton]

What exactly does the input do?

Andrew

The top of clutch switch is used as in input to the ECM to briefly disable fuel when the clutch is depressed, which helps decelerate the engine and makes upshifting easier and quicker.

[CarlC]

It is the production Camaro throw out bearing

Gen4 LS F-body or??? That's what I've been using with good results.

[Stielow]

Gen4 LS F-body or??? That's what I've been using with good results.


Is the OEM throwout bearing used or the Tilton? I'm pretty skeptical on non-OE/non-preloaded TOB's but Tilton swears by their part.


Yes LS 4th Gen. Stock. Works good.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Number1]

What does the c7 ZR1 intercooler pumps flow compared to others?

[srode1]

here's a chart comparing a few including the ZR1

https://fiinterchillers.com/tech_articles/lingenfelter-intercooler-pump-flow-testing-results/

[Jr]

The new mufflers are "Hot Rod" quite. I am still looking for something quieter, but I'm getting old and I am tired of loud cars. I have tinnitus from all the louds stuff I have done all my life. I want my hot rods to be quieter.

Mark

Are you running borla or black heart mufflers?

[Stielow]

Are you running borla or black heart mufflers?


Gen4 LS F-body or??? That's what I've been using with good results.


Is the OEM throwout bearing used or the Tilton? I'm pretty skeptical on non-OE/non-preloaded TOB's but Tilton swears by their part.


Yes LS 4th Gen. Stock. Works good.

Black Heart.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[130fe]

Yes LS 4th Gen. Stock. Works good.

Black Heart.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Mark, I am running the blackheart mufflers on my 68 (Holleys entire system for the Quadralink). I am getting an annoying exhaust drone from about 2-2400 rpm no matter what speed/gear. Are you getting the same?

[CraigP]

Phenomenal build thread Mark!
I spent a good couple of hours going through it.
I have a question regarding your experience with alloy housings. I’m building a Pro Touring 1967 Fairlane hardtop, it’ll weigh around 3200lbs, have around 600hp and run a 6-speed, plus a pretty decent tire (315/30R18) on the back. Predominantly an occasional weekend toy with probably 3-4 track days (circuit) a year.
Strange talk about reduced life on the gears due to housing flex. Strange Engineering also did not recommend their alloy centre due to the weight – yet I’ve seen a host of cars running alloy centres. You’ve used them and have beat on them pretty hard – what’s been your experience?
Thanks in advance
Craig P

[Jimbo1367]

Over on YouTube, Lawrence LT Tolman has a how to video on this very subject.


The video is from Feb 17,2022, titled “ using SCIENCE to ELIMINATE exhaust drone: I finally did it!.

Hope it helps.

[camcojb]

Over on YouTube, Lawrence LT Dolman has a how to video on this very subject.


The video is from Feb 17,2022, titled “ using SCIENCE to ELIMINATE exhaust drone: I finally did it!.

Hope it helps.

l9CrmkIxDQU

[Jimbo1367]

Thanks for reposting this. It’s hard for me to navigate websites on my phone.

Jimbo

[Stielow]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221008/85a3592ae07423e59d0a1e194c5e3211.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221008/b98790789e130396157544363951fcd7.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221008/0fae56b05936c2d653482ff28885b119.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221008/9ef9caa8b37081170532260cef90e57e.jpg


I got a question on ECM holders. The big one is for the E99 ECM and the smaller one is for the FICM. Stock 2019 ZR1 parts


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[srode1]

Can you provide some information on the oil tank modification? Specifically for the expanded area done to add volume - is it completely open inside the tank where the extension was made or does it have any addition baffling to help reduce the sloshing around and keep the outlet hole submerged?

[67_camaroRS]

Hey mark little out of subject question here, On your camaro "gunner" did you make that center cupholder or where did you find it? I feel that cupholders are essential for these pro-touring cars. thanks.

[Stielow]

Can you provide some information on the oil tank modification? Specifically for the expanded area done to add volume - is it completely open inside the tank where the extension was made or does it have any addition baffling to help reduce the sloshing around and keep the outlet hole submerged?


It is a 2 gallon Peterson tank with added volume. The expansion keeps the cylinder of the Paterson tank to help oil control. The extra volume is main for extra oil so oil level is less sensitive. I check is with a dip stick so the extra oil is extra insurance the engine won’t get starved for oil.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221013/d611a430cff01a904323c37e66aa7858.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221013/bd529130c31c7115f8c9a0378ecd2414.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221013/e6de64c44a35f705197ba05dae35f743.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221013/d6d95f0cfc03e03eac6c9bdba81c5cea.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Stielow]

Hey mark little out of subject question here, On your camaro "gunner" did you make that center cupholder or where did you find it? I feel that cupholders are essential for these pro-touring cars. thanks.


Matt at Sled Alley made the cup holders. One off sheet metal deal


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[EVIL SS]

What electrical body harness did you use or did you make a custom complete body harness like your last build?

[srode1]

I did not see anywhere where you state what the part # is for the a Mann and Hummel Air oil separator. I looked on their website but did not find that particular one.

Looks like a ProVent 100. The 200 may have been a bit large for the location, it's pretty big. I am curious how the smaller one is working out.

[Stielow]

Looks like a ProVent 100. The 200 may have been a bit large for the location, it's pretty big. I am curious how the smaller one is working out.

I have used it on 3 builds now and it works great. Be aware there are two part numbers on how they vent. Make sure you get the correct one. I would need to do some digging to find the correct part number. The last one I purchased was a Mann ProVent 100 SKU 3931070793 Jan 2019. I think that was the correct one.

Don't blame me if that is the wrong one.

Good luck

Mark

[srode1]

Thanks, I was trying to figure out how to fit a 200 in mine and it's a challenge, the 100 is a much easier fit. If you find anything in your 'spare' time on the difference between the two provent 100 options I'd be very interested will use the part number you listed otherwise.

On edit - after some quick research - the differences are one version has a bypass which is the part number ending in 3. The part number ending in 2 has a pressure relief valve. Based on the naming I would guess the bypass routes excess through the outlet which most would route to the air intake tube, and the pressure relief valve vents excess externally. The version version ending in 2 is called 'off road' probably due to the routing of the relief valve gasses.

[srode1]

So the ProVent 100 takes care of the oil tank vapors - how do/did you manage the valve cover outlets for vapors?

[thedugan]

Mark, a lot of people with supercharged motors run hydro boost setups or now the huge electric masters. You look to be using the DSE booster and master setup. How do you make that work with all of the track driving you do and having vacuum for the brakes? The reason I ask is I don't want to use a hydro boost or an electric master on my future procharger setup. Want to stick with my DSE setup.

[Stielow]

Mark, a lot of people with supercharged motors run hydro boost setups or now the huge electric masters. You look to be using the DSE booster and master setup. How do you make that work with all of the track driving you do and having vacuum for the brakes? The reason I ask is I don't want to use a hydro boost or an electric master on my future procharger setup. Want to stick with my DSE setup.


I have run normal brake boosters on all my projects. I have never had an issue, but I’m not a left foot braker. If you like to drive 2 footed, one foot on the gas and one foot on the brake pedal I could see a use case where you could deplete the vacuum in the booster.

I have driven turbo cars and have left foot braked. You can deplete the vacuum in the booster very easily.

I have never used or driven a vehicle with a ProCharger. My applications have been positive displacement blowers. When you drop throttle they immediately build vacuum. I also have not run wild camshafts that do build vacuum at idle.

Also it depends on if you are DI or PFI.

Sorry for the long reply. So the short answer is it depends on your set up.

On a side note I have driven hydraulic brake boosters on police cars on track. The brake feel was poor but that was 10 years ago.

Mark


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[srode1]

You brought up the PCV topic in the Hobbs camaro build but I didn't want to ask the question about your system on the LT5 there and corrupt that build conversation, so I'll ask it here. Other than the vent on your oil tank on that build, what did you do if anything to modify the stock PCV system on this engine? And for the oil tank, did you use the air inlet tube as a source of clean air for that side?

[Cramer4918]

Just power read through the entire thread over two days!

Mark - such an awesome build with tremendous attention to detail! You and Matt at Sled Alley have skills and knowledge I can only dream to achieve.

I appreciate the fact that you share so many details and information regarding your builds. I have taken many ideas from this thread alone and hope to apply them to my build. Thank you for sharing it with us.

How many miles have you been able to log on it? Any track time to test all the cooling improvements?

[Stielow]

You brought up the PCV topic in the Hobbs camaro build but I didn't want to ask the question about your system on the LT5 there and corrupt that build conversation, so I'll ask it here. Other than the vent on your oil tank on that build, what did you do if anything to modify the stock PCV system on this engine? And for the oil tank, did you use the air inlet tube as a source of clean air for that side?

Sorry for the delayed reply. I will say "This is what has worked for me". Not saying it is the only way to go but so far it has worked well.

After a few iterations on dry sump tanks we landed on the system that is on Apex.

A modified Peterson tank that tucks into the cowl of the car, it hold about 10 quarts of oil. I vent out of the valve covers with 2 -8AN lines that tee together to a -10 AN line. That vent line goes to the top of the dry sump tank. There is a little effort inside of the tank to get most of the oil out of the air.

A -10 AN vent line then leaves the dry sump tank to a air oil separator. I like the Mann and Hummel ones. The Mann and Hummel air oil separator has a nice filter in it.

https://crossfilters.com/products/mann-hummel-provent-100-oil-separator-3931070793?variant=40192589627582

I connect a drain line from the bottom of the air oil separator to return and oil back to the dry sump tank. The drain line has a very low pressure check valve in it. The line need to return to the dry sump tank below the running oil level. The "Clean Air" vent line then connects to the inlet air tub where it is vented to atmosphere, but can suck in clean filtered air. The vent line should go in the air tube after the MAF sensor.

I have done this set up on 3 cars now. If you can keep the oil temp down to about 270F while running on track I have had no issue. Engine bay is clean and dry.

I know it is a bit of messing around, but so far it has worked great with zero oil pressure drop outs and no oil going into the engine.

[Stielow]

So the ProVent 100 takes care of the oil tank vapors - how do/did you manage the valve cover outlets for vapors?

On LS engines the stock LS9 style valve covers have baffles and I think the LTs do also. We drill out the old 3/8 inch vent nipples and add a -8 AN nipple. This 900 - 1000 HP engine need a way to breath. If you don't get the vent large enough we have blow out rear main seals (Not good)(Big Fire). Also don't delete the factory PVC vent system. Air needs to move through the engine to get moister out.

A lot of air oil separators need to be drain manually, I don't like that. I like the Mann and Hummel's or similar that have previsions to drain back to he oil tank or pan. You don't need to remember to drain them.

Oil and or a lot of oil vapors that get into your intake will lead to preignition issue if it gets out of control. It is best to keep it under control.

Mark

[Blown353]

Mark, a lot of people with supercharged motors run hydro boost setups or now the huge electric masters. You look to be using the DSE booster and master setup. How do you make that work with all of the track driving you do and having vacuum for the brakes? The reason I ask is I don't want to use a hydro boost or an electric master on my future procharger setup. Want to stick with my DSE setup.

While I'm not Mark, GM does use an auxiliary electric vacuum pump on the ATS-V to supplement vacuum for the brake booster when the engine is under boost... it works great. There's a vacuum sensor right at the inlet of the brake booster and the ECM will cycle the auxiliary electric pump as needed if the brake booster vacuum drops while the engine is under boost, something which can happen if you're a heavy left foot braker.

The factory electric vacuum pump on the ATS-V is made by Hella, and they're obviously OEM quality and reliable. Hella makes several vacuum pumps with different volumes and duty cycles; many hybrid cars use them as well as the sole source of brake booster vacuum when the car is running in straight EV mode.

The ones I've had very good luck with is Hella # 8TG-012-377-701, it's one of the heavier duty, higher volume, higher duty cycle pumps for hybrids and the like. The one GM used on the ATS-V is a much lower volume, lower duty cycle unit only meant to supplant engine vacuum very occasionally, and the OEM ECM has some logic to limit the vacuum pump duty cycle to prevent overheating it. I've used the larger, higher duty cycle 8TG-012-377-701 on both turbo cars and cars with big cams and poor idle vacuum and also on a couple of rock crawlers where guys didn't want to use a hydroboost but also where losing vacuum to their power brakes would be a real problem if the engine died while all crossed up on some rocks. They pull vacuum very quickly, are quiet while doing so, and are very reliable.

[thedugan]

While I'm not Mark, GM does use an auxiliary electric vacuum pump on the ATS-V to supplement vacuum for the brake booster when the engine is under boost... it works great. There's a vacuum sensor right at the inlet of the brake booster and the ECM will cycle the auxiliary electric pump as needed if the brake booster vacuum drops while the engine is under boost, something which can happen if you're a heavy left foot braker.

The factory electric vacuum pump on the ATS-V is made by Hella, and they're obviously OEM quality and reliable. Hella makes several vacuum pumps with different volumes and duty cycles; many hybrid cars use them as well as the sole source of brake booster vacuum when the car is running in straight EV mode.

The ones I've had very good luck with is Hella # 8TG-012-377-701, it's one of the heavier duty, higher volume, higher duty cycle pumps for hybrids and the like. The one GM used on the ATS-V is a much lower volume, lower duty cycle unit only meant to supplant engine vacuum very occasionally, and the OEM ECM has some logic to limit the vacuum pump duty cycle to prevent overheating it. I've used the larger, higher duty cycle 8TG-012-377-701 on both turbo cars and cars with big cams and poor idle vacuum and also on a couple of rock crawlers where guys didn't want to use a hydroboost but also where losing vacuum to their power brakes would be a real problem if the engine died while all crossed up on some rocks. They pull vacuum very quickly, are quiet while doing so, and are very reliable.


Great info. I don't want to hijack Mark's LT5 thread which I kinda did. It might be worth its own thread under brakes on how it works, wired, what to use, etc. Sounds like an excellent option for us boosted guys.