Turbo in a 67 camaro LS1

[67PTCAMARO]

I always like the turbo idea and it is a burning desire to build one. My LS1 in 67 Camaro has 28.000 miles and in stock trim. If I build a single or twin turbo what horsepower gains I can except and how much would cost?
Any ideas where to look?
Thanks

[camcojb]

I always like the turbo idea and it is a burning desire to build one. My LS1 in 67 Camaro has 28.000 miles and in stock trim. If I build a single or twin turbo what horsepower gains I can except and how much would cost?
Any ideas where to look?
Thanks

You can find a lot of info on turbo LSX's here:

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=9

Depends on your fab skills, but I've heard of doing them for $3K to $4K if you do all the fabbing, and use stock manifolds, maybe a factory turbo, etc. A decent kit is $5K but nobody makes one for your specific combo, so expect to pay more if you have someone custom fab something. 800-1000 hp is not difficult to make with those setups. A twin turbo with small turbos on a stock LSX will makee 500-550 rwhp at only 6 -7 psi so there's a ton of potential.

[67SSChevelle]

Can you weld? I don't think they make any kits for a 67 Camaro. I'm making my own for my turbo LS1 67 Chevelle. On a stock motor is you just want a turbo and no intercooler you can run maybe 5-7Lbs of boost with all the stock fuel stuff but it will be pushing it. Low end, maybe $3k up to $5-7 depending on what else you decide to change. The figure $500-1000 for the turbo, 500 for wastegat and BOV, then all the little things start to add up...piping, clamps, silicone hose, exhaust manifolds...
As for power with low boost 450-500 maybe. There are a lot of variables

Bryan

[nitrorocket]

On a stock motor you can safely run 8 psi or so on pumpgas with an intercooler. You can do a twin setup for about $6k or less. 650 hp at the crank is a good safe power level on the stock motor. :)

Look up my car for a good place to start, that will show you the basics of what you will need.

When you blow your engine, you will just have to build another with forged rods and pistons. ;)

[Mike Hall]

You can upgrade rods and pistons along with some fuel system upgrades and get even more power. My plans are to take my stock LS1 and upgrade the pistons and rods and shoot for 650 wrhp. The stock crank is said to hold 800+ HP without any problems but the rods and pistons are not up to par.

Im still a good ways from building the tubo setup but I have lots of ideas. It would be nice to see someone else go through this before me so I can see what kind of problems you run into. LOL


Mike

[nitrorocket]

I have been driving mine for a year with no problem yet.

A stock block and crank have held 1500 hp!! ;)

[67PTCAMARO]

Thanks for the all info. So if we are looking around 500 horsepower on a stock motor, ( thats the limiting factor damn it) that would be doible with the head and cam combo the conventional way. I have to think and decide.
I think doing it the right way starting building the engine for turbo and the twin system is the way to go.

[nitrorocket]

If you only want 500 hp at the crank, go cam and heads. If you want more power by turboing it, Leave the cam and heads STOCK. You can make 650 hp with turbos and NOTHING else. If you forge the rods and pistons, you can make 800 hp with the rest of the motor being stock. :unibrow:

[67PTCAMARO]

Are you serious about 650 horsepower without doing nothing to the motor?
How much risk involved to have that kind of power on stock engine with turbos?
Thanks

[nitrorocket]

That's the max power it will put down with a GOOD tune and be a great weekend worrior. Alot more then that you will likely snap a rod. But yes, all stock. Don't even have to open a valve cover!

If you want it to last 150k, I would keep it around the 600hp level and you won't ever have to worry for the life of the car.

These motors have made 800 hp without opening a valvecover, but that will NOT last very long.

[67PTCAMARO]

Nitrorocket,
Do you have a link for your build up?
Thanks

[nitrorocket]

http://www.lateral-g.net/members/tt71chevelle/

Here is the link to my Lateral G buildup. Some stuff has changed for more power, but this setup made 750 RWHP on 93 octane, I am now making over 800 rwhp with larger turbos and more boost. I am running 18.5 PSI on 93 octane! ;)

Feel free to ask questions, I should have an answer. :_paranoid

[67PTCAMARO]

Nitrorocket,
Can you pls give me some info what kind of turbo /what size, wastegates, blow off valve and what kind of and size piping I should be looking for? How about fuel set up?
Remember mine is a stock 2001 LS1 and dont want to touch the engine.
Thanks man.

[nitrorocket]

Are you doing twins or single??

[67PTCAMARO]

Twins. And I'm thinkung to mount them low. whats the solution for the oil return?
Thanks

[nitrorocket]

How low are you talking?? If you mount them to low you have to run an electric oil scavange pump, this add reliability issues, noise and clutter. You will need to have the turbos mounted at least 6" above crank centerline and have them return into the front timing chain cover, NOT the oil pan! :thumbsup:

[67PTCAMARO]

Nitro, I send you a e-mail. I hope you got it.
Thanks man

[NU BREED]

Why Not The Oil Pan??????

[nitrorocket]

With the oil pan drains, it is possible to have drainback issues on de-acceleration.

[camcojb]

With the oil pan drains, it is possible to have drainback issues on de-acceleration.

That makes sense, but I've seen many kits drain back to the pan, even on the LSX motors. In fact I've only seen one that didn't, and they used a boss in the block just above the pan.

All the old-school small block use the pan also. Prochargers (non self-contained) use the pan also, although they recommend lining up with a main cap to reduce windage and oil drain issues from slosh.



Jody

[nitrorocket]

The pan will work in some cases, but there are a huge percentage of turbo cars that have smoking issues on de-acceleration. I know I don't want that hassle! This is due to the oil being hydro locked in the drain line when the oil plugs the line from forward g-force. I use the timing cover and have had no issues draining the twins stopping from 150 mph as fast as possible.

[camcojb]

The pan will work in some cases, but there are a huge percentage of turbo cars that have smoking issues on de-acceleration. I know I don't want that hassle! This is due to the oil being hydro locked in the drain line when the oil plugs the line from forward g-force. I use the timing cover and have had no issues draining the twins stopping from 150 mph as fast as possible.

Like I said it makes sense, just that most kit manufacturers aren't covering that base. Thanks for the info.

Jody