70 Camaro - Boise, Idaho

[Goosesdad]

Starting the plugs for the bumperettes and front spoiler.

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[Goosesdad]

For making plugs with anything soft like balsa, drywall mud is your friend. Sands like balsa so you don't over-sand.
Might have been able to do this whole thing on the printer but likely just as quick and accurate doing it by hand, some printed parts and some hand formed. Fairly square and symmetrical but as you can image the center line of the nose isn't perfectly centered so playing the compromise game to get it better.
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First pass at primer and blocking to confirm shape works. Will crisp up the lines and flatness, then a mold.
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Beginning shaping the sides. Guys in the shop are a ton of help, with helpful eyes! Super thankful. Lots more before a mold.
I'm pretty sure this is ride height, at least for the street. 4 1/8" in the front, what do you think.

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[camcojb]

4 1/2" is low, but should be streetable. Great work John.

[dhutton]

My rule of thumb is 5” for no road contact. You will have to be careful with driveway approaches etc in my experience.

[89 RS]

Very cool, John!

That's awesome to have a friend who will let you use their shop to work on your car.

[Goosesdad]

Thanks guys, appreciate the feedback! I raised it up to 4 7/8" of ground clearance.

Laid down a handful of layers of drywall mud to get the shape.

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More mudding and I built an inner structure inside the spoiler so it perfectly holds it shape when removed from the car. If it moves at all, the mold will be junk.
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Took a step back and fixed a bad angle where the fenders meet the spoiler, well worth the effort... much smoother line now.
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Final sweep with body filler and drywall mud. I like drywall mud for making plugs in some cases; it's cheap, sands super easy, allows easy shaping of complex curves and for sure it's the only way to go when using balsa as they sand very similarly.
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A handful of heavy layers of filler primer rolled on, final blocking is next. And then onto making the mold.
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[camcojb]

You're the man!! :king:

[syborg tt]

I am looking forward to seeing more progress pictures


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[Goosesdad]

Thank you gents!
Final test fit of the spoiler and bumperette plugs before mold makin'....
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First sections with gelcoat and the first layer of glass. Long way to go, best to do only a layer or two, maybe three at one time so curing is more stable. Just time, right??!!
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[syborg tt]

Bad ass


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[camcojb]

Bad ass


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Agreed. John is very talented.

[Goosesdad]

Thank you!
Hope everyone is doing great. All good here, living the good life...7 days a week at a really cool shop with some badass fabricators working around me. I tell them daily that it's not lost on me.....they are working and I am playing. So very thankful for Kenny and his team.

Making progress on the molds, it's just a slow process with curing and making flanges. Tedious but I'm making the spoiler mold pretty stout as there is a decent chance I may need to.... I'm not gonna say it.
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[camcojb]

Making progress on the molds, it's just a slow process with curing and making flanges. Tedious but I'm making the spoiler mold pretty stout as there is a decent chance I may need to.... I'm not gonna say it.


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'Ya think?!!

[zz430droptop67rs]

John, I have been following your build from the very beginning.

It first got my attention because I have a 70 RS myself.

It has been a true pleasure to see how a real pro fabricator works.

Wow, just fantastic work. Can't wait to see more.

[Goosesdad]

Thanks guys, really appreciate the encouragement and real kind words!

[Goosesdad]

I use sign makers plastic for making the mold flanges. It's cheap, cuts nicely and shapes with very little heat, and easy to get.

Masking tape so the hot glue doesn't permanently stick to anything.
Use a lot of cripples so the plastic doesn't move or break off during laminating, last thing you need with wet 'glass!
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I welded in a fairly stout inner structure while the valence was still on the car. Given the weak-@ss nature of how the shape of the spoiler was created, can't have anything flexing once it comes off the car.
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Other side of the bumper mold laminated.
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[Goosesdad]

Tacked up the spoiler mounting brackets.
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Bumperette mold almost complete
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Spoiler mold almost complete
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[Goosesdad]

Hope everyone is doing well. Good here. Still very thankful for Kenny (and his guys) to welcome me into his shop to work on this thing while we are building the new house. This dude is beyond dedicated (crazy)...he is at the shop 7 days a week....so if he's there, I'm there. So thankful for not only the use of the shop but the level of talent around me making sure I don't screw up and offering hands is incredible. Not sure what I did to deserve this but I'm doing my best to do my part to earn it!

2 of the molds are complete now, here is the mold sections right after pulling them off the plug.
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The mold parts and the plug.
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The plug getting ready to go in the trash. I cut off some of the nose piece mounting brackets. I will use them on the final part, it will make sense later.
I set the mold aside and forgot to take pics of it, will do next week.
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Threw the plug in the trash. That's always weird! I made this mold pretty darn stout and braced the heck out of it so it doesn't warp once I make the part and put it up on a shelf. Hopefully I'll never need it but if so, at least it should be as straight as the day I made it.
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Switched it up as Kenny was kind enough to offer one of his awesome fab guys to help me put the #1 header tube on the headers. The way I mounted my steering column put the shaft right through the middle of the #1 tube. American Racing Headers was kind enough to make me a header without that tube and sent me a box of scrap bends along with the seal and collector. First class people.
We spent a day getting this thing right. Couldn't have done this without Adam's help. Next level talent.
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Header done ready for some scotchbrite.
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Kenny spent the weekend with me working on the exhaust. Another next level talented dude. 35 years of badassery....
Parts ready for cut'n.
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We got the it built to the X this weekend.
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Started prepping for the mufflers and the rear, figured we would notch the fuel tank for cleanlyness. I decided to run 3" all the way back, I know many go 2 1/2" after the mufflers but I don't have experience with that, so just made way for the 3".
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[camcojb]

Inspiring work as usual John. :thumbsup:

[F'in mine]

Hope everyone is doing well. Good here. Still very thankful for Kenny (and his guys) to welcome me into his shop to work on this thing while we are building the new house. This dude is beyond dedicated (crazy)...he is at the shop 7 days a week....so if he's there, I'm there. So thankful for not only the use of the shop but the level of talent around me making sure I don't screw up and offering hands is incredible. Not sure what I did to deserve this but I'm doing my best to do my part to earn it!









[B]Switched it up as Kenny was kind enough to offer one of his awesome fab guys to help me put the #1 header tube on the headers. The way I mounted my steering column put the shaft right through the middle of the #1 tube. American Racing Headers was kind enough to make me a header without that tube and sent me a box of scrap bends along with the seal and collector. First class people.
We spent a day getting this thing right. Couldn't have done this without Adam's help. Next level talent.
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Header done ready for some scotchbrite.
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Kenny spent the weekend with me working on the exhaust. Another next level talented dude. 35 years of badassery....
Parts ready for cut'n.
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We got the it built to the X this weekend.
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Started prepping for the mufflers and the rear, figured we would notch the fuel tank for cleanlyness. I decided to run 3" all the way back, I know many go 2 1/2" after the mufflers but I don't have experience with that, so just made way for the 3".
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Really enjoy viewing your build, your skill set is phenomenal to watch the process evolve.

Wanted to ask a question about you mentioning using a scotchbrite on the headers. Is that to give it a brushed look?
I'm going to have some exhaust work done on some 304 stainless next year and like the brushed look as opposed to the mill finish. Any tips to offer this novice are appreciated to achieve a finish like the pic below, TIA.

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[syborg tt]

Love this build and can’t wait to see more


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[Goosesdad]

Hey Simon. Thank you!!
Yep, Scotchbrite just to clean up the tubes and the welds. Your pic is probably more likely done with a tubing belt sander. I'm going to wrap my entire exhaust so I'm not really super concerned with super detailed finishing but you should easily be able to duplicate your pic.

[Goosesdad]

Thanks guys!!

Here are the pics of molds put back together and the stands mounted. I still need to do final wet sanding and polish of the gelcoat before making the parts but that should get underway next week.
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[syborg tt]

Keep those pics coming


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[Goosesdad]

More on the exhaust.
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Yes, that's 3" irrigation drain pipe subbing in for a 4" driveshaft. Ha!, use what you got!
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All buttoned up to the rear-end. We will continue out the back next week.
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I'm so thankful for Kenny Welch of Kenny's Rod Shop for helping me for the last 2 weekends get the exhaust looking real nice. So awesome to be around dudes with this level of talent.
On Kenny's advice.... Though I did buy a Borla Universal kit, he likes to use sanitary pipe elbows from an industrial piping supply house. Super clean way to have perfect flat surfaces at exactly the right angle. So, I didn't need the Borla kit but I'll find a good home for it - lesson...ask the experts before ordering! When the dust settles, I think the cost of those pieces and a couple straight sections is less than the Universal kit but the fit is sooo tight! Highly recommend!
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[CamaroAJ]

Sanitary pipe bends are hydro-formed so they don't oval out when you cut them like mandrel bends do. More expensive, but higher quality end product.

[Cramer4918]

Great info on the sanitary pipe bends. I learned something new! Exhaust looks awesome and super clean.

Man of many talents! :hail:

[Goosesdad]

99% finished with the exhaust, still working out how I'm going to connect or not connect to the exhaust tips. Again, more skilled help from one of Kenny's guys! I wouldn't pick up the torch around here! So much fun going to "work" everyday.

Gas tank needed significant notching.
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Added some bracing to support the tank mounts that I did long ago.
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I know it looks real close, it is! Only about 1/4" but I'm going to wrap the entire exhaust so it should be fine.
Once I finish the aluminum surround/side skirt around the exhaust tips (for sure it won't hang down as it is now - just haven't inked it yet), I'll figure out how the exhaust attaches.
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[camcojb]

:king:

[Goosesdad]

Mold put back together, prepped for laminating the part.
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Sprayed PVA Mold Release.
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Brushed on the gelcoat. No great way to accurately spray it with this mold, just to many tight areas to insure a consistent layer. Brushing is an OK alternative but will have pin holes. This thing will get body-worked during paint so no worries.
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First layer of 3/4oz mat fiberglass and 3/32" glass fibers in the tight corners.
I also added a small piece of 3/8" aluminum in the outer most section for the splitter to bolt up to later. Buried it in with the carbon Will drill and tap. Didn't get pics of that as I was elbows deep in resin.
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Added the carbon.
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This will sit in the mold for a couple weeks. More to come soon. Hope everyone has a wonderful Christmas and Holiday!!
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[jarhead]

John, I always enjoy seeing your work :military:
Merry Christmas to you and your family too!

[Goosesdad]

Thanks guys!!!

Took a couple weeks off visiting family for the holidays, left the spoiler in the mold to fully cure and help keep it's shape.

Here is the part out of the mold and just starting to smooth all of the seams where the gelcoat seeps into the joints of the mold.
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First test fit under way.
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[groovyjay]

It just keeps getting better and better!

[Goosesdad]

Thanks!

The fiberglass nose, purchased about 6 years ago, shrunk up a bit, so I'll cut it and reshape to get the shape back. Glass does move if you don't anchor it and this piece has been off the car for some time now. My bad, definitely not the manufactures fault. Fix started today.
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[camcojb]

Still seems to fit better than many I've seen.

[zz430droptop67rs]

John, I was just wondering if you're going to use a front license plate?

It would be shame to cover up that work.

[Goosesdad]

Still seems to fit better than many I've seen.

Agreed. It's from Custom Works and it fit very well. A bit of massaging and it will be perfect and I always liked what Keith did revising the shape.

I had planned on using the stock grill insert but the re-pop wasn't great and there was a guy at SEMA who hand made a metal insert with larger grids. It was extremely well executed and looked great. I'm going to redesign the factory grid pattern and try to 3D print a revised version. Down the path now, we'll see if I can get it close enough to fit into this nose piece and then fit the fiberglass to it.

John, I was just wondering if you're going to use a front license plate?

It would be shame to cover up that work.

Thanks! Yep, for sure no front plate. Not required in Idaho, though I probably should have a plan for a temp setup while driving in other states.

[Goosesdad]

Here's the first attempt at doing a plastic insert. Stretched my Solidworks skills big time. Had some help, thankfully. Just hit send for the first test print.
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[Goosesdad]

Good progress on the grill. My printer isn't large enough to print in one piece but still in mock-up, will find someone to print each side in one piece...hopefully.
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Still in the works but pleased so far.
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First one out of the mold, glass cut for the second.
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In the mold, little chilly right now in ID so helping the cure with some heat.
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Initial trim and a quicky sand. lots more to do.
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[syborg tt]

Very nice


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[CamaroAJ]

I've used i-Solids for 3D prints too large for me when I wanted it to be one piece. I found them on craftcloud and it was cheaper to go through them then it was through craftcloud.

https://www.i-solids.com/

[Goosesdad]

I've used i-Solids for 3D prints too large for me when I wanted it to be one piece. I found them on craftcloud and it was cheaper to go through them then it was through craftcloud.

https://www.i-solids.com/

Thanks AJ!! Much appreciated.

[Goosesdad]

Just some process pics here.
Needed to reattach the lower portion of the nose, hot-glued some paint sticks to anchor it in place, flat, so it can be fiberglass'd in place .
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2 layers of 1 1/2oz mat laid down in the back over the cut joint.
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After the above cured solid, ground out the cut joint to get down to clean glass, used a round carbide burr.
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Not a great pic here, but used 1/32" glass fibers + resin to create a fiberglass paste and filled that grove that was ground out. Let it cure and then sanded flat. That's all for that now until it gets to body work.
Installed and then set up a laser level to start mounting the bumperette's.
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Using a mix of some fiberglass ribs with a metal mounting bracket. Drilled some holes to create a path for the same fiberglass paste to flow through. The end result will be a combination of a chemical and mechanical (mostly) bond to anchor the metal mounting brackets. This is before the fiberglass paste, used a little hot-glue to hold the bracket in place while the glass is laid down.
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This is the first step in laying down the fiberglass paste.
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[Goosesdad]

Hope all is well for everyone.
Bumperette mounts are complete. They are done until bodywork time.86222

Final sand on the lower splitter plug. Will start the mold next week.
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Test fit.
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[syborg tt]

This front end is going to be a bad ass


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[Tinker]

This front end is going to be a bad ass


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Marty, I’d say front end to rear end!

[Goosesdad]

This front end is going to be a bad ass


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Marty, I’d say front end to rear end!

Thanks guys!!

[Goosesdad]

Started the mold on the lower splitter.
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Mold release
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Gelcoat
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5 Layers of 'glass, first half of the mold complete.
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[Goosesdad]

Needed to get some clear on the carbon interior panels so I could put them away safely, at least for a while. 4 coats of matte clear.
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Need to have the AC knobs and the switches anodized so quicky fit up to pick the sheen.
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[Goosesdad]

Forgot to mention, the lettering for the switches and AC control notations were etched with a CO2 laser and then I swept in multiple coats of paint before final wet sanding and then the matte clear. The CO2 laser gave super crisp lines in the carbon fiber/epoxy. Tried a regular laser on a test piece but it burned the epoxy.

[WSSix]

That's really interesting. Using lasers to make hot rod parts. Who would've thought this 10 years ago?

[Spiffav8]

Needed to get some clear on the carbon interior panels so I could put them away safely, at least for a while. 4 coats of matte clear.
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Need to have the AC knobs and the switches anodized so quicky fit up to pick the sheen.
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Those look amazing!

[Goosesdad]

That's really interesting. Using lasers to make hot rod parts. Who would've thought this 10 years ago?
So true. Even the laser guy was not sure it was going to work. Nothing ventured..... Hope all is well.
Those look amazing!
Thank you!!

[Goosesdad]

Mold done. Will doing some finish polishing before making the part.
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[syborg tt]

I cannot wait to see the dash installed in this car. It’s going to look incredible.


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[Goosesdad]

Thanks Marty. Soon!

Taking a bit of a break from making the lower splitter, going to fab in some doors into this Fiat. Gotta earn my keep here in this shop, Kenny and his guys are being more than gracious letting me stay here for a while, so I'm gonna do my part. Local old school drag race guy looking for a little blown hot rod to cruise around and cause trouble, so it needs some doors. Should be a fun distraction.
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[syborg tt]

Thanks Marty. Soon!

Taking a bit of a break from making the lower splitter, going to fab in some doors into this Fiat. Gotta earn my keep here in this shop, Kenny and his guys are being more than gracious letting me stay here for a while, so I'm gonna do my part. Local old school drag race guy looking for a little blown hot rod to cruise around and cause trouble, so it needs some doors. Should be a fun distraction.
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That’s freaking awesome


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[Goosesdad]

Fiat done. Back to the Camaro.
Laminated both halves of the lower splitter. Gelcoat, Carbon Fiber, Glass and a layer of Kevlar(yellow). Will put the two halves together tomorrow, should be interesting. Some might use 3M panel bond but I'm going to use 1/32" Fibers and resin as I need to drill/tap it so I can bolt up the aluminum portion of the splitter. That mix is ultra strong/dense and taps very well. Will only have about 3/8" of threads but already tested and I couldn't tear the 10-32 out, should work fantastic.
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[jarhead]

Looking good John!

BTW, I sent you a PM a while back, at least i think i did, lol

[Goosesdad]

Looking good John!

BTW, I sent you a PM a while back, at least i think i did, lol

Thanks Joe! Don't see the PM

[Goosesdad]

Thought you guys might enjoy some pics from the work on the Fiat. Cut in doors and made a removable hood. Also laminated a body mount, a horseshoe flange, typical funny car mount style. This thing should be pretty cool when it's done. Just a cruiser, likely won't ever see a track. Made a seat also.

Made a make-shift mold out of sign-makers plastic and then laminated a seat. Interior guy will take it from here. This is just after laminating, still wet.
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This is the horse-shoe body mount/flange and the seat.
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The seat and the doors. I added an interior layer of glass, spaced out from the door with some 1/4" foam. Those circles are some "trusses" between the two layers for added stiffness. Just cut holes in the foam and packed in some fiberglass putty made from 1/32" fibers and resin. That stuff is killer strong....more on that later.
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My part is done. The guys at the shop will take it from here and make hinges for the doors (suicide) and for the hood. I made a recessed flange for the hood to rest on, just can't see it here.
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[Goosesdad]

This is putting the two halves of the lower splitter together. Some would use 3M panel bond and it would work but I wanted to used that fiberglass putty for a couple reasons; first: it bonds like crazy and it beyond strong and second it is so dense that it can be tapped and holds threads very well. I needed a way to mount the aluminum so this was my solution.

I used some foam to make some barriers to contain the putty, just a few dabs of hot glue to hold them in place. I could've just made the front completely solid instead of doing all of those jogs but I was trying to manage weight. The ends are also made solid as there will be bolts through these areas to the aluminum plate that I encased in the carbon section of the spoiler. I also made a sections in the center solid for the bolts to steel mounts and ran a section between the two for stiffness. Both sides of the spoiler are 2 layers of 1-1/2oz fiberglass mat and 1 layer of Kevlar cloth. It's pretty thin, again weight, but should be more than strong enough.
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Here is the putty, still wet ready for the bottom section to be put on and bolted down. Time isn't your friend here so I enlisted the guys at the shop to help put down the putty while I was mixing it. Went to the mixing bench and came back to a few additional signatures and some hidden time capsules. Good stuff. Having the time of my life working around these guys.
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Here is the part taken out of the mold a few days later.
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I didn't get any pictures of putting the rear end piece but basically used the same process as putting the upper and lower halves together. You can see the squeeze out of the putty. Only ended up with a couple small air pockets, other than that...it's very stout. I'm guessing it's about 12 lbs.
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Just set the two parts together before some initial test fits.
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Test fit
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Next step is to reconfigure that center piece. Just test fit in here.
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[camcojb]

:king:

[fleet]

John,

You’re like the Walt Disney of 2nd gens…wow!

:thankyou:

[WSSix]

Looks great, John. I really appreciate the process pics. I know that takes time to write up, but it's something I've never seen before.

Great work on the Fiat, too