70 Camaro - Boise, Idaho

[Goosesdad]

So many pictures of your build have ended up in my screen saver folder and the last two of the car are the latest.

Man I love this car


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Awe man!! This sure does look mean...

Thank you!!

[Goosesdad]

Back on the rotisserie so I can finish the welding on the underside and laminate the fiberglass inners.
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Finished widening the rear inners.
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Starting to get cold here so I took a detour from welding so I could laminate the fiberglass front inners while it's still relatively warm.
You can sort of see the green PVA mold release on the mold. I left some of the edges of mold run a little long so I can decide later how to trim the inners, especially where they will tie into the front spoiler/splitter.
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White Gel Coat on the mold. I will laminate in a day or so. For sure, this is stretching how you should properly build a mold/part but it will work and allowed me to build the mold and do live tests with the wheel/tire on the car and at full suspension compression. The inner is only 1/8" away from the fender flare.....pretty frick'n tight...needed to be to keep the tire clearance. Will use some Kevlar for strength especially in front of the oil tank.
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[GregWeld]

As usual -- superb work !!


So sorry it's getting cold there!! LOL Moving to Scottsdale cured that problem for me this winter!! I miss Sun Valley -- but don't really miss the -10* mornings.

[CamaroAJ]

That's exactly how I'm going to have to do my front inners as well. Have any more pictures of the process to help cut my learning curve down?

[Goosesdad]

As usual -- superb work !!


So sorry it's getting cold there!! LOL Moving to Scottsdale cured that problem for me this winter!! I miss Sun Valley -- but don't really miss the -10* mornings.

Idaho's loss!!

[alex n]

I modified Anvil deep tub front inner wheel wells but I think I might not have clearance. Save those molds , I might buy them from you or perhaps you could make me a set. Nice work

[Goosesdad]

That's exactly how I'm going to have to do my front inners as well. Have any more pictures of the process to help cut my learning curve down?

Absolutely. Give me a couple days and I will detail.

[Goosesdad]

I modified Anvil deep tub front inner wheel wells but I think I might not have clearance. Save those molds , I might buy them from you or perhaps you could make me a set. Nice work

Unfortunately these molds were made on the car, literally glued in place. So, they're only good for one use. Glad to send you some pics on how I built them.

[Goosesdad]

I modified Anvil deep tub front inner wheel wells but I think I might not have clearance. Save those molds , I might buy them from you or perhaps you could make me a set. Nice work

The other thing you could do is cut off the part of the Anvil's that don't fit, mount inners into the fender and form a mold for the area to replace what you cut out. Then just laminate in the new section.

[Goosesdad]

I modified Anvil deep tub front inner wheel wells but I think I might not have clearance. Save those molds , I might buy them from you or perhaps you could make me a set. Nice work

Hi AJ. Looks like from your build, you have some great composite skills, this inner fender project will be a breeze for you. I source my glass supplies from US Composites. Great prices, shipping and knowledgeable staff….and they will have everything you need. Sort of wrote this for someone who has never done glass before.

To be clear….I did the following with the conscious decision that the surface of the final part would not be perfect. I choose to do it this way in an effort to save money/time and because cleaning up a well laminated part with a good coat of gel coat is much easier than making a perfect mold…especially a complex shape like an inner fender and more so when the tolerances to the tire are so tight. Absolutely, if you spend more time/money on the mold, the part will be smoother but the method below will give you a strong, lightweight part.

Also, not sure that you could do these fiberglass inner fenders unless the car was upside down on a rotisserie…..while welding upside down might sort of suck, laminating fiberglass upside down would be impossible.

If you look back a few pages in my build, you’ll see the best pics I have for building the mold, unfortunately I didn’t take any up-close pics here. I used some Home Depot parts for this; underfloor layment and drywall putty and went into my wife’s craft room for the hot glue gun. I built the lip that surrounds the upper A-arms with some pine. Advice: I made this way to tight up to the A-arm….I wanted the look of the inner-fender wrapping the A-arm closely but it made laminating the glass a pain in the @ss and frankly I knew better…..you don’t have time to mess around in tight spots when resin is kicking off on such a large part. For sure, building a mold with these materials isn’t normal but it’s an inexpensive quick way to build this one-time-use mold and the beauty of the drywall putty is that it sands real easy on all the complex concave curves. In those earlier pics, you can see that I scabbed in pieces of the floor layment to help fill in the gaps and get a pleasing shape, glue them in place with the hot glue gun. And then just sweep in the drywall mud, sand and repeat. I left the mold extra long in the front where it will attach to the front air dam, will cut it later. After you get the shape done and smooth, paint it with enamel paint which will give you a hard’ish surface for you to laminate up to.….remember, anything that is on the mold will print through onto the part, so get it as smooth as you can. That said, doing a mold and part this way will definitely leave some sanding/body filler work, so don’t stress that it’s body-work straight/flat. Choose a contrasting enamel color to the gelcoat color you pick.

Materials for the part, in order of lamination: Gelcoat (about 60-70mils..get a gauge for this), 3/4 ounce mat, and 2 layers of 1½ ounce mat. Typically you would use fiberglass cloth as a final layer as it creates a nice finished look and provides a good bit of extra strength. If you choose that look, you could eliminate one of the 1½ ounce layers. I am going to spray bed liner, so I didn’t really care about the finish texture of the glass without the mat. I also used a small piece of Kevlar to provide some extra protection in front of the dry sump tank. I kept my part as thin as possible because my tire clearances were so tight. Still very strong.

US Composites website will guide you through any questions.
Gelcoat, pick a color, that’s about it. You won’t need more than a quart to do both inners.
Resin: I like the 700 Vinyl Ester Resin.
¾ Ounce and 1 ½ Ounce Chopped Strand Mat. When ordering your fiberglass, make sure you choose the “rolled” instead of “folded” shipping method. Folding damages the glass strands.
Kevlar: I used 5oz Kevlar.
Mold Release: Get a small can of Partall Paste Wax and a ½ gallon of Partall PVA.
Get a handful of their resin mixing cups, a good supply of single use paint brushes – large, medium and small and get a few part-releasing-wedges for prying the part out of the mold, USE a BINKS respirator – you will be breathing this for the better part of an hour and be right up close to it in order to see the air bubbles. I don’t use gloves cause they are a pain but a respirator is a must. As you know, Acetone is a must for clean up. Eye protection is also a must.

Step 1: Before you prep the mold, get a piece of cloth or an old sheet and cut it into the shape of the inner fender, let it overhang a few inches and cut it so that it lays flat in the mold. Then use that piece as a template to cut out the glass from the rolls. Put these cut individual layers of glass into the mold, one at a time and “tear” it so that it lays flat. Do this now, you won’t have time when you are laminating. And tearing glass that is wet with resin is not good. Tear it, don’t cut it with scissors, this keeps the part flatter and stronger. It’s OK if you do this in a “patchwork” instead of one full-size piece as long as you let the “torn” edges overlap. Just do all of this up front before mixing the resin and have the pieces set aside in an organized fashion so you know exactly what goes where and in what order. Time is not your friend after you mix the resin. It’s lame but I do a rehearsal before mixing the resin, always seem to find something that saves time.

Step 2: Mold Prep:
Wax on…wax off. Do this 5 times, no less. Then put on the PVA. You can spray PVA…best…., but I put it on with a brush because I didn’t care about the brush lines, just easier. PVA is water soluble and will either just peel off or you can wash it off after laminating. Put down multiple layers, basically until you get a nice “green haze”. About 3 or 4 or so. No magic here. Let it dry between coats and dry thoroughly before the gelcoat step.

Mixing Gelcoat and Resin. It always cracks me up that the instructions use different measuring units from the ones on the mixing cups. I included a table I created for 1% and 1.5%. Use 1% if it’s warm out and 1.5% if it’s cold. Try to do this with ambient air above 65, if not…put a heat lamp on the area after you are done to help it cure. If it’s too cold the vinyl ester resin just won’t kick off. Careful it doesn’t get too hot.

Step 3: Gelcoat: Lay down about 65-70 mils thick. If you can spray it, you will certainly get a more consistent layer and you can put it down all at once which is better/easier/safer. I didn’t want the mess of spraying it in my shop so I brushed it on. If you are careful about putting down 2 layers, brushing is fine. This is a little tricky as you have to let the first coat dry enough but not get super hard. If it doesn’t dry enough, the second coat will eat the first and you will get “alligators” in your finish gelcoat. Not the end of the world if this happens as you can fix it with filler. Probably a few hours’ish between coats. Again if you spray it, just get it all down at one time. Let this dry overnight.

Remember I said it’s lame to rehearse…. Be lame and rehearse. These are pretty big parts and if you f’up, you might be building these molds again. Not a party.

Step 4: Set in the ¾ ounce mat into the mold sort of in its place. Then mix up about 20-24 ounces of resin. Wet out the glass by brushing the resin on and then using the brush to “squeegee” the resin while driving out the air bubbles. I know you know how to do this but for others: this is kind of a dabbing while dragging process with the brush. Takes a little practice but you will see a good layer of resin but not too much. I recommend starting from one end working towards the center (bottom of the mold if the car is upside down) and then go to the other side and work back towards the center (bottom). This will let you control the amount of resin so that it doesn’t pool at the bottom of this U-shaped mold. Assuming you are on a rotisserie and the car is upside down.

After you get the ¾ ounce layer wetted out and the air out (do this quickly but thoroughly), then set in the first layer of 1 ½ ounce mat and do the same process wetting it out and pushing out the air bubbles. You should have a little of the resin left, just use it up quickly as it’s likely going off by now. Go mix 24 ounces more and get going on the first layer of 1 ½. Then do the same on the last layer of 1 ½. Only mix up 24 oz of resin at a time, and 20-24 will cover each layer. Again, try to only use just enough resin to wet out the glass, you’ll know if you have too much because it will be a darker brown area. If you are going to use cloth, use a rubber squeegee to get out the air and excess resin. If you are adding any Kevlar, you could do it between the 1 ½ ounce layers or do it last, doesn’t really matter. Move quickly. Have some acetone in a bowl ( I use disposable aluminum 3 inch deep, baking pans from the supermarket. Wash your hands off of the resin between layers so the curing resin doesn’t burn your hands and to help them not be as sticky. Again, rehearse each step before mixing the resin…my humble advice.

Open all the doors or do this outdoors cause as the styrene comes out in the curing process, it’s gonna smell bad. If it’s cold, put a heat lamp on it but watch it that it doesn’t get to hot. The styrene will come out for a couple of days. Some people will say to let the resin cure overnight between layers, I don’t like this because it opens a chance for delamination…in my opinion.

Let it cure for a couple days before taking out of the molds. I broke the mold up to get the part out which is necessary as this shape doesn’t really allow for proper mold reliefs.

Let me know if you have questions.

Here is some of the supplies
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Here is the cloth template
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The part all laminated up. Some people will use a razor knife to trim the excess fiberglass off as the part is curing. I don't like doing this because it adds some risk that you will accidentally delaminate some of the part. I prefer to just cut/grind it off after it cures, it's safer.
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Here is the beginning of breaking out the mold.
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Busted up mold.
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Here is the part right after removing from the mold. The green is the PVA, you can peel off most of it, then just wash the rest off with water and a little scrubbing.
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Ready for finishing.
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[alex n]

Very nice , I will try to post pics of my modified Anvil fenders. I like to use epoxy resin and cloth , it is more expensive however it doesn’t out gas or smell whatsoever, one characteristic of it that can be an advantage or disadvantage depending on application is the long cure time

[CamaroAJ]

Ah perfect write up, thank you. I'm also not worried about the texture on the inside, the outside where visible is my concern, which is easy to take care of. I'll fore sure flip the car over to build the tubs if I can. I think the trick will be to get it mounted up with the front fenders mounted to the car.

I like the idea of using drywall joint compound, that will for sure speed sanding along. My goal is to build these out of carbon, so I'll just be able to lay it up and vacuum bag it.

[Goosesdad]

Looks great! Where are you mounting your sub straps?

Here are the pics of how I anchored the sub strap. Grade 5 nut welded to a small 3/16" thick plate. According the DJ Safety, given the relatively light stress on this point in an event, this should be more than enough. I did anchor it to the flange of the frame as well as the floor, both inside the car and on the bottom.

[Goosesdad]

Very nice , I will try to post pics of my modified Anvil fenders. I like to use epoxy resin and cloth , it is more expensive however it doesn’t out gas or smell whatsoever, one characteristic of it that can be an advantage or disadvantage depending on application is the long cure time

Looking forward to seeing them! Good point! Wish someone would invent resin that smells like race gas!! Instant millionaire!

[Goosesdad]

Ah perfect write up, thank you. I'm also not worried about the texture on the inside, the outside where visible is my concern, which is easy to take care of. I'll fore sure flip the car over to build the tubs if I can. I think the trick will be to get it mounted up with the front fenders mounted to the car.

I like the idea of using drywall joint compound, that will for sure speed sanding along. My goal is to build these out of carbon, so I'll just be able to lay it up and vacuum bag it.

I think if you build some type of extended flange on the mold, you could easily vacuum bag it. I almost talked myself into that. Honestly the glass ones are pretty frickin' light...not carbon light...but pretty light. That said, the carbon on the inside would look trick. Steve Lenning's look awesome!

Here is the rotisserie mounts that I built for the front. Auto Twirler does sell some but I couldn't tell if they would clear the lower valence and , as you know, that piece needs to be on to anchor the fender in place. I was a little nervous rolling it over given that I hadn't welded in the roll bars from the fire wall to the frame yet. I wanted too but having the inner's done first so I could get the bars down close to them seemed the better idea. The filler on the molds did stress crack a little when I settled the car on the rotisserie but none of the fender gaps changed at all, zero thousandths...according to the dial calipers. So, feel pretty good about nothing moved. That said, I would've felt a lot better if those bars were in place first, was a risk.

[CamaroAJ]

I could build plates like that and go through the grille opening when I get to the point again. That will keep everything out of my way too.

I'll keep that in mind about the joint compound cracking. My goal is to have visible carbon in the engine bay and I'll back it up with glass/kevlar since it doesn't matter whats on the back side.

[waynieZ]

Amazing write up! Thanks. They looks great, always amazing work.

[Goosesdad]

My thinking: There really isn't a good/solid/safe place to put jack stands on the narrowed rear rail (after install of DSE 4link) because the lower link bar is below the frame rail, it’s just tight and cumbersome. Also, given that the front subframe is wider than most jack stand posts making it a little unstable/insecure....and that both of these locations are not ideal for the lift pads such that there is low risk of the car shifting/sliding in the front and the same clearance issues exist in the rear....and that you really need to raise the car first, before being able to put it on the lift, I built these points to solve the above.

In the rear, this point is affixed to the lower 4 link mount that I made. This whole area is tied to the rear frame rail which is/will be basically attached to the rear roll bar down tube.
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In the front this lifting point is placed on top of 1/8” thick pad that will be connected to the front down tube of the roll bar.
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I will add a lifting point for the floor jack which will lift from the new trans x-member which is connected to the roll cage.

Built them this way so there was effectively a couple of “feet” that will dig into the lift pads to further anchor the car in place. Also, these little feet serve to help keep the car from slipping on the jack stands. Also, these front and rear points will provide for the car to be perfectly level on lift.
Agreed, all of this is a bit of overkill but it only added about 7lbs and I think it will make life easier overall.
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Interested in your thoughts.

[MtotheIKEo]

Not a bad idea!

[WSSix]

Great idea! I run into this issue when lifting my TA for the exact reasons you mentioned.

[waynieZ]

Nice

[syborg tt]

I love the jack stand idea.


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[Goosesdad]

Amazing write up! Thanks. They looks great, always amazing work.

Not a bad idea!

Great idea! I run into this issue when lifting my TA for the exact reasons you mentioned.

Nice

[QUOTE=syborg tt;686373]I love the jack stand idea.


Thanks guys. I did add some bracing that "sorta" connected the front jack stand points to the roll cage. The area I welded this to is basically the front connection point for the subframe and I added an additional 1/8" plate to distribute the load so it was carrying the load as close to being connected to the subframe/roll bar as possible. I didn't take great pictures of this process but essentially I cut through the floor to expose the backside of the subframe mounting plate (there is a hollow area here). My 1/8" plate is welded directly on top of that mounting plate. I then hand fabbed some 3/16" steel into a box and welded it to the plate, the floor and then finally to the roll bar. The stronger approach would have been to run a roll bar directly from the front roll cage bar straight down to this point but it would have not allowed for any room for my left foot next to the clutch and I think that would have been very uncomfortable while driving. Compromise but I think I reinforced this area enough that it should be more than strong enough to support the car on stands/lift.
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The rear point is essentially directly connected to the rear frame through the lower 4 link connection point. I believe this should be very strong and easily support the rear while on stands/lift. I have put it back on the lift using these points, albeit just the body, and all worked great.

All of this is a bit of added weight but less than 10lbs total and I think the added functionality is worth it.

[Goosesdad]

Insignificant little rust repair on the bottom of the door.

[Goosesdad]

I've had the door bars sitting on the shelf for a couple years thinking I would help my old bones from having to crawl over them 7 bazillion times but decided it was time to cross this off the to-do list. I did save about 3 bazillion trips...!

[Sandro's 1969 502 Camaro]

I've had the door bars sitting on the shelf for a couple years thinking I would help my old bones from having to crawl over them 7 bazillion times but decided it was time to cross this off the to-do list. I did save about 3 bazillion trips...!

I cant even imagine the amount of time that has gone into this amazing build so far. This wil be one bass ass car when its done. 👍

[Goosesdad]

Engine bay bars welded in, will put the top tube in later.
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Silly detail here but this stamped cowl support flexes quite a bit at the bottom because the factory didn't leave enough of a lip. I added a few small pieces of metal and then just a little fun with the dimple die.
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Installed the hood latches.
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Lots of work ahead of me to get the gaps tightened up.
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[glassman]

Geez louiz!!! "The foundation in this one runs deep young skywalker".

Soo good. Thanx for posting...

[alex n]

Nice

[waynieZ]

Good fix.

[kevin_l]

Fantastic metal work and planning. Some how I over looked this thread. You're attention to detail is amazing. Keep up the good work.

[Goosesdad]

Fantastic metal work and planning. Some how I over looked this thread. You're attention to detail is amazing. Keep up the good work.

Geez louiz!!! "The foundation in this one runs deep young skywalker".

Soo good. Thanx for posting...

Nice

Good fix.

Thank you!

[Goosesdad]

Built the radiator close out panel and have started a removable piece to clean up the hood latch, more to come soon.
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Started massaging the Custom Works fiberglass nose.
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Fire Suppression system is underway. Have a separate post in the Safety section with more details.
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[two-piece]

AutoRad radiator and core support arrived. REAL nice piece, everything looks great. Serious attention to detail and that was continued in the packaging for shipment, well done x 10! Looks good (will be painted later). Fit perfect. Had them install a condenser but decided to do remote oil and power steering. Dual 14" Fans and their handmade shroud....looks awesome!


Ive had the AutoRad bookmarked for a year after I saw one on a 2nd Gen. Looked back after the new year and page was gone. Found out she had removed the 2nd Gen from their product list. I called and explained to her I had to have one and she agreed to build one for me.

[waynieZ]

That's a nice setup!

[Goosesdad]

Evaporator mounted.
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Knobs and louvers chosen and tucked away for later.
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Fab'd up the hood pins.
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Just a little smoothing of the inner fenders, more to come.
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[two-piece]

Looks great man.

[WSSix]

Thanks for the update, John.

[Musclerodz]

Niiiice!!!!!!

[F'in mine]

This type of car porn would make even Jenna Jameson blush.:eek:
Nice work!

[ScotI]

Phenomenal.

[Goosesdad]

Phenomenal.

Looks great man.

Thanks for the update, John.

Niiiice!!!!!!

This type of car porn would make even Jenna Jameson blush.:eek:
Nice work!

Always appreciate you guys! ....and the humor!

Cheers!

[Goosesdad]

Happen to be around the corner from IronWorks so I stopped by and picked up my interior switches. Sweet parts! Really nice shop and very cool people.
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[Goosesdad]

Installing the exhaust tips, had to fab up some brackets. More to come with the diffuser.
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[GregWeld]

Just outstanding..... everything about it — the design and your craftsmanship.

[waynieZ]

Just outstanding..... everything about it — the design and your craftsmanship.

I’m with Greg, Amazing.

[Goosesdad]

Just outstanding..... everything about it — the design and your craftsmanship.

Thanks Greg....lots of inspiration around here! On many levels...

[Goosesdad]

Forgot this one.

[Goosesdad]

I’m with Greg, Amazing.

Thank you Wayne

[Goosesdad]

Started fab'n the diffuser. Lots more to come here. It won't hang out that far, but will wait to cut until the spoiler and side splitters are built so it will all tie in nicely. 1/4", 6061.
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[Goosesdad]

Fab'd up the cover for the hood latch.
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Small modification to the hood latch mounting bracket.
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Still a bit of clean up needed before primer but everything clears and is functional.
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[waynieZ]

Wow that looks slick John! Nice job.

[Goosesdad]

More progress on the exhaust tips and the start of the diffuser.
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A little tech that probably most know....a carbide tip/flush trim router bit works great for trimming aluminum. I needed to bend the aluminum first and then cleco it in place to scribe the shape so it perfectly fit to the tips, then rough cut to shape, then straightened the cuts with a router.
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Still designing the center section of the diffuser. Will likely 3D print in plastic. Stepping away from this for now, just needed to get this area mostly tidied up.
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Those wings will get trimmed way down...just waiting until the rear spoiler is underway so all of it will tie together.

[F'in mine]

Not like you need any sort of input from me cause I think you're doing a killer job with all facets of your build but thought I would share this rear diffuser pic I have on file for inspiration.

[Goosesdad]

Not like you need any sort of input from me cause I think you're doing a killer job with all facets of your build but thought I would share this rear diffuser pic I have on file for inspiration.

Thank you! Always appreciate all input/help! Good design, can see why you tagged it.

[214Chevy]

Sweet mother of Jesus!! That is just a thing of beauty John. I like it...

[Goosesdad]

Sweet mother of Jesus!! That is just a thing of beauty John. I like it...

Thank you!!

[Goosesdad]

Built the frame for the rear-seat delete.
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[Goosesdad]

Fuel Tank and Differential vents: Started with these mounts from Chassisworks.
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Then drilled a hole large enough for the JRi reservoirs and fab'd up these covers for the holes. Added a split tube for the reservoir hose. A rubber gasket for the cover and some foam rubber tube will seal everything up from water and vapors.
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Just tacked in for now.

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[waynieZ]

Nice idea.

[Goosesdad]

Fab'n in these 69 RB door handles. Moved the location to a more favorable spot than the factory. Thanks to Steve Lenning for giving me his extra relays, he was the mastermind of this idea! Cable assembly/pulley is Lokar. The Teflon cable guides are really just to keep the cable from rattling. Very pleased with how solid and accurate the operation feels.

[MtotheIKEo]

Live that door handle idea

[glassman]

That is bada$$.

[CamaroAJ]

That's a much better angle to grab the handle than the factory had, looking good.

[WSSix]

That's one area I want to try something different in, as well. The arm rest or door pull really needs to be beefier than the factory arm rest.

I really like what you've done here, John.

[Goosesdad]

That's one area I want to try something different in, as well. The arm rest or door pull really needs to be beefier than the factory arm rest.

I really like what you've done here, John.

That's a much better angle to grab the handle than the factory had, looking good.

That is bada$$.

Live that door handle idea

Thanks guys! The location does really feel very natural while seated and it lets your elbow do the work of opening the door very well. Honestly was a little surprised how solid it feels, expected the whole thing to be a little cheezy and to end up with a redo but it's pretty stout. If you want to duplicate and want any more detailed pics, let me know.

[Goosesdad]

Started getting the oil tank and the AC lines under control. Lots to fit in a little area. Had planned on using the VA bulkhead but I think this will be cleaner once I build a panel to close off this area behind the inner fender....all this will be concealed. Less fittings and should make final assembly of the VA system a little easier and cleaner.

Changed the firewall to accommodate this exit panel, takes away the symmetrical look of this raised area but again...it will be behind the close out panel anyway.
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[Doug1]

Started getting the oil tank and the AC lines under control. Lots to fit in a little area. Had planned on using the VA bulkhead but I think this will be cleaner once I build a panel to close off this area behind the inner fender....all this will be concealed. Less fittings and should make final assembly of the VA system a little easier and cleaner.

Changed the firewall to accommodate this exit panel, takes away the symmetrical look of this raised area but again...it will be behind the close out panel anyway.


Very nice approach. I see the bulkhead connectors as just introducing 8 more places it could possibly leak. I think the grommets are the way to go. Great idea and execution!

[waynieZ]

I agree nice solution.

[Goosesdad]

Very nice approach. I see the bulkhead connectors as just introducing 8 more places it could possibly leak. I think the grommets are the way to go. Great idea and execution!

I agree nice solution.

Thanks! Definitely a lot to cram into this area. Next up is building the filler neck for the tank. Also working on fab'ing a dipstick into the tank. And then porting both of those over to access holes in the fender. And the drain. And keeping all of that fairly well protected from something coming off the tire. I did put a single layer of Kevlar in the fiberglass inner fender lay-up but I'm looking at adding another layer as the tank, fittings and lines are ending up much closer to the inner than I originally designed.

[hotrodfuelhose]

:trophy-1302: Very well done, nice build!

[Goosesdad]

Fab'd up the remote fill and dip stick for the dry sump tank.

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Started with adding a 1/2" NPT port for the dip stick and a -12AN for the fill to the top section of the tank.

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Added this radius'd AL tube as an internal guide for the dip stick. Using Lokar Universal Locking dipstick.

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Fab'd up this little remote filler box with a filler neck and a -12AN port.

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The start of the sheet metal access ports. This one is for the dipstick.

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Blended them into the upper portion of the fender. Still have plenty of clearance even when the hood is closed.

69888
Here's the underside.

[waynieZ]

Nicely done!

[Dave Pratt]

damn nice...

[CamaroAJ]

Are you going to weld the old fill port closed? I'll need to do something similar on my car and was thinking of welding it up.

[Goosesdad]

Nicely done!

damn nice...

Thanks !

[Goosesdad]

Are you going to weld the old fill port closed? I'll need to do something similar on my car and was thinking of welding it up.

Hi AJ. I don't think I will weld it closed. The cap is really tight so I don't think there is risk of it coming loose. Interested in your thoughts.

[CamaroAJ]

Hi AJ. I don't think I will weld it closed. The cap is really tight so I don't think there is risk of it coming loose. Interested in your thoughts.

I was thinking more for an aesthetics aspect having something useless like it was just thrown together and not though about. Well, yours is hidden so that really wouldn't be the case for you. I think mine will be visible.

[Goosesdad]

I was thinking more for an aesthetics aspect having something useless like it was just thrown together and not though about. Well, yours is hidden so that really wouldn't be the case for you. I think mine will be visible.

Agreed...just saw your latest pics and see what you're getting at, your's will be visible, I actually think it's going to look bitchen seeing the tank. I bet you can get either Peterson or Aviaid to build the tank without the filler neck. Not sure if you have the tank yet.

[Goosesdad]

Deck lid support. Fab'd up this little bracket and used a support from Lift Supports Depot. Couldn't make one of the prefab'd ones from our normal go-to companies work because of the fiberglass lid... I did try.

Used nutserts to attach the bracket to the lid. I ended up with a 58 lb. support, though I don't have the spoiler on yet, it should still be stout enough.

[Goosesdad]

You guys will appreciate this story; good friend of mine started his company Factor 55 at his house, lives few doors from me, with one product - self designed and machined. Mostly off-road recovery products. factor55.com. Heavily focused on engineered and tested products that are 100% American made...here in Boise. They now have a ton of products and are the shizzle in the off road world, something like 15 SEMA awards (South Building in the center, this year)

I convinced him to build me some custom tow hooks and this is the beginning of that process. The front will get lightened up quite a bit but waiting until I do the front spoiler. His system uses a soft shackle for connect to the tow vehicle. Not sure how I'm going to attach the rear, will work on it this weekend.

[Goosesdad]

Rear tow hook

[CCS]

Beautyful!!!!!

[waynieZ]

It looks nice, are you going to clear anodize or paint or something like shark hide?

[Goosesdad]

Thanks!
Yep, anodize. Not sure of color yet. Getting pretty close to inking the body color; Valencia Orange, Ford Red or Gun Metal Gray, all still on the option block. Exterior aluminum pieces will likely be gun metal gray for the orange or red options.

[Musclerodz]

Thanks!
Yep, anodize. Not sure of color yet. Getting pretty close to inking the body color; Valencia Orange, Ford Red or Gun Metal Gray, all still on the option block. Exterior aluminum pieces will likely be gun metal gray for the orange or red options.
car is way to cool to hide all the body modifications under a dark gray. They will disappear. I would go with orange and accent with gun metal, or something of the sorts.

[Goosesdad]

car is way to cool to hide all the body modifications under a dark gray. They will disappear. I would go with orange and accent with gun metal, or something of the sorts.

Thanks Mike!! Leaning there as well.

[WSSix]

I'm with Mike on this one. Gray is not a good choice. I like orange. Not sure exactly what shade Valencia is though. BMW's Sakhir Orange really does it for me. They have darker gray accents on their cars that might help you visualize what it could look like it. After all these years burnt oranges still look great to me.

[Goosesdad]

Agreed. Valencia Orange and a red similar to Mazda's Soul Red are high on the list. Trying to stay with a 2 stage system for easy repairs.

Always appreciate the input!

[Goosesdad]

Back on the rotisserie for a ton of final welding and grinding cleanup. Tedious and boring. Need to be at the sandblaster followed by Epoxy in the next 6 weeks or it waits until Spring! No!!!!

[CamaroAJ]

Looking forward to this stage, means that its getting close to paint and assembly.

[Goosesdad]

Looking forward to this stage, means that its getting close to paint and assembly.

Man...I hear that! Final assembly is like weeks and weeks of opening presents at Christmas!

[Goosesdad]

At the sandblaster.

[waynieZ]

Sweet!

[CamaroAJ]

#jelly

[Goosesdad]

Spent 7 hours blowing out the sand. Off to a friend's spray booth tomorrow for Epoxy. Air compressor, leaf blower, shop vac. Rinse repeat. I have sand in places I shouldn't.

[Goosesdad]

Should've known I didn't spend enough time blowing out sand, add another 3 to total 10 hours when I finally called it good and rolled it into the spray booth for a couple coats of DP-90. Now the dust really starts flying!! I'm far from a proficient spray gun guy but had a voodoo paint n' body guy standing next to me so it went well.

[Musclerodz]

Should've known I didn't spend enough time blowing out sand, add another 3 to total 10 hours when I finally called it good and rolled it into the spray booth for a couple coats of DP-90. Now the dust really starts flying!! I'm far from a proficient spray gun guy but had a voodoo paint n' body guy standing next to me so it went well.

it will be leaching sand long after you finished building it. I have no idea how sand gets to the places it gets. Oh wait, I have been to the beach.....

[Goosesdad]

it will be leaching sand long after you finished building it. I have no idea how sand gets to the places it gets. Oh wait, I have been to the beach.....

So true! My ears are still leachin' sand! Check'd my other parts...none there.

[syborg tt]

it will be leaching sand long after you finished building it. I have no idea how sand gets to the places it gets. Oh wait, I have been to the beach.....

This is so true.

I am back working on my car and not kidding when I say I had sand come out of somewhere and I have no clue where it came from.

[Goosesdad]

In process of semi-smoothing the undercarriage. Not going overboard but just a few days with some Everglass to make sure the welds are sealed and improve the look before Raptor.

[two-piece]

Looks great man.

[Goosesdad]

Fab'd up some side mounts for the fuel tank so I can eliminate the tank straps.
71016

Shaved off part of the front mounting bracket for the tank strap to add a little more room for the exhaust. Only gained a 1/2" but it may help later.
71017

Using Ridetech's universal billet gas cap, took a bit to make it work but I think it's worth it. It's a really nice piece.... will be a shame to cover it with the license plate!
71018

Cleaned it up
71019

71020

Had to raise the access port a bit to clear the new filler body and provide room for the filler neck vent port.
71021

Made this little box to reseal this area up. I made an opening for access to the filler neck vent port, just to provide a visual later to make sure it doesn't leak. I'll make a gasketed cover for this opening later.
71022

Welded in and epoxied. A little seam sealer after the epoxy cures. I still need to modify the filler neck to get it to align with the fuel tank....next week.
71023

[Goosesdad]

Finished some smoothing and sealing then resealed the touched areas with another coat of epoxy.
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71032

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71034

[waynieZ]

Sweet!

[WSSix]

It's almost going to be too pretty to flip the car back over.

[AMPZberlinetta]

Wow, following this thread and seeing how you clean up those welds is incredible. Mind sharing what tools/ abrasive wheels/ discs you use to smooth out the welds to that finish? I must see this process...especially when trying to smooth out a 90 degree pocket weld.

[Goosesdad]

Wow, following this thread and seeing how you clean up those welds is incredible. Mind sharing what tools/ abrasive wheels/ discs you use to smooth out the welds to that finish? I must see this process...especially when trying to smooth out a 90 degree pocket weld.

Thanks! No real voodoo on my end....and to be clear, those latest pics of the bottom of the car have had a bit of body filler to the welds. Did that as much to seal up any small pinholes but it definitely smoothed out some of those areas for looks also. I used Evercoat Everglass, as it's waterproof so it's a good compliment to the epoxy primer for sealing up the under carriage. Raptor coming in the next month or so.

Since I'm less than an expert at making pretty welds and I only use my MIG because I end up needing 5 beers after trying to TIG!.... I've definitely had my share of grinding welds to clean them up. Of course, being careful not to impact the strength of the weld just for aesthetics!

By the way - I'm 1000% sure someone here will have some better/additional advice.... please don't hesitate to chime in here, no issues with me!

When grinding sheet metal welds, I use a 3"x3/16" 3M Green Corps grinding wheel on a straight die grinder. I'm embarrassed that I don't remember the person here on LatG that recommended these to me..but they are awesome for the first level of grind, that person made my life better! Ha. I do that first grind parallel to the bead to keep the wheel from touching down on the base metal. Once it's close, I switch to either a flap disk on an electric grinder or 2", 36 grit disk on an air angle grinder.

For cleaning up welds in corners or wherever, I just use a carbide burr on the same straight die grinder. And finish it up with either the 2" disk and/or cartridge rolls. None of the local shops here in Boise carry those, so I get them online from Empire Abrasives. Don't think there is LatG sponsor that carries them?

Hope that helps a little.

[alex n]

Thanks! No real voodoo on my end....and to be clear, those latest pics of the bottom of the car have had a bit of body filler to the welds. Did that as much to seal up any small pinholes but it definitely smoothed out some of those areas for looks also. I used Evercoat Everglass, as it's waterproof so it's a good compliment to the epoxy primer for sealing up the under carriage. Raptor coming in the next month or so.

Since I'm less than an expert at making pretty welds and I only use my MIG because I end up needing 5 beers after trying to TIG!.... I've definitely had my share of grinding welds to clean them up. Of course, being careful not to impact the strength of the weld just for aesthetics!

By the way - I'm 1000% sure someone here will have some better/additional advice.... please don't hesitate to chime in here, no issues with me!

When grinding sheet metal welds, I use a 3"x3/16" 3M Green Corps grinding wheel on a straight die grinder. I'm embarrassed that I don't remember the person here on LatG that recommended these to me..but they are awesome for the first level of grind, that person made my life better! Ha. I do that first grind parallel to the bead to keep the wheel from touching down on the base metal. Once it's close, I switch to either a flap disk on an electric grinder or 2", 36 grit disk on an air angle grinder.

For cleaning up welds in corners or wherever, I just use a carbide burr on the same straight die grinder. And finish it up with either the 2" disk and/or cartridge rolls. None of the local shops here in Boise carry those, so I get them online from Empire Abrasives. Don't think there is LatG sponsor that carries them?

Hope that helps a little.
I think that might have been me, those grinding wheels are awesome

[AMPZberlinetta]

Thanks for the input on the different tools you are using! I just ordered a couple a those things to try them out. On the metal it almost looks like you have a sanded finish/ has some tooth to it. Is that from the grinding discs or to you go back and sand the metal smooth an orbital or something? Also while making all the panels, are you using a bead roller to stamp in all those strengthening creases? And i promise ill stop asking questions

[Goosesdad]

Thanks for the input on the different tools you are using! I just ordered a couple a those things to try them out. On the metal it almost looks like you have a sanded finish/ has some tooth to it. Is that from the grinding discs or to you go back and sand the metal smooth an orbital or something? Also while making all the panels, are you using a bead roller to stamp in all those strengthening creases? And i promise ill stop asking questions

No worries, ask away.....
Yep, take the metal to at least 150grit before priming as a minimum, in my opinion. I actually go to 220. Crazy paint guys will say 400....
Yep, beadroller. The Trick Tools ones are amazing.

[waynieZ]

All that work really shows.

[CamaroAJ]

Looking good, John. I'm pretty sure your car is what gave me the idea to extend my rockers which will help me be able to mount my front fenders easier.

[Goosesdad]

Looking good, John. I'm pretty sure your car is what gave me the idea to extend my rockers which will help me be able to mount my front fenders easier.

All that work really shows.

It's almost going to be too pretty to flip the car back over.

Thanks guys!!!

[Goosesdad]

I think that might have been me, those grinding wheels are awesome

Yep...thanks Alex!!!

[Gmachine1911]

”Thanks! No real voodoo on my end....and to be clear, those latest pics of the bottom of the car have had a bit of body filler to the welds. Did that as much to seal up any small pinholes but it definitely smoothed out some of those areas for looks also. I used Evercoat Everglass, as it's waterproof so it's a good compliment to the epoxy primer for sealing up the under carriage. Raptor coming in the next month or so.”


So do you use a seam sealer before the Everglass or does the Everglass work to seal the seam and smooth it out? Thanks!

[Goosesdad]

”Thanks! No real voodoo on my end....and to be clear, those latest pics of the bottom of the car have had a bit of body filler to the welds. Did that as much to seal up any small pinholes but it definitely smoothed out some of those areas for looks also. I used Evercoat Everglass, as it's waterproof so it's a good compliment to the epoxy primer for sealing up the under carriage. Raptor coming in the next month or so.”


So do you use a seam sealer before the Everglass or does the Everglass work to seal the seam and smooth it out? Thanks!

For these particular areas, the 'glass seals just fine....just mostly little pinholes. Adding a touch up epoxy coat on top of that, especially where sanding/scuffing through to bare metal.

For areas that are a true seam (like, trunk floor to the rear tail pain), I'll use seal sealer then a shot of epoxy on top of that and then the Raptor. Good tip is to run masking tape on both sides of the seam, then spread the sealer, then peel up the tape in the middle of the cure cycle....makes for a clean line.

Probably a bit excessive here, but I'm fortunate to have a good friend that is a high-end paint dude and he's been kind enough to guide me through the little but important details, thus I'm taking his advice 100%. Wish I had the $$ to have him do it!!!

[streetbird]

bottom of this car is amazing. nice work

[Goosesdad]

Thank you!

[Goosesdad]

Hood vent - for another day!
71144

A little bodywork on the firewall
71145

Touched up the epoxy
71146

Filler primer....now the block sanding begins.
71147

[CamaroAJ]

Whats the hood vent from? measurements? I'm looking for one for my car to match the Anvil ones and make fit the cowl hood.

[Goosesdad]

Whats the hood vent from? measurements? I'm looking for one for my car to match the Anvil ones and make fit the cowl hood.

APR Performance - C7 Z06.

[Goosesdad]

APR Performance - C7 Z06.

I have some pics with a tape measure next to it from the factory. I'll send you asap.

[Goosesdad]

Block sanding firewalls is truckloads of fun.

[waynieZ]

Block sanding firewalls is truckloads of fun.

But it sure is paying off! it looks amazing.

[jarhead]

nice job on the firewall, it looks like allot of work!

[Goosesdad]

nice job on the firewall, it looks like allot of work!

But it sure is paying off! it looks amazing.

Thank you!

[Goosesdad]

I've been struggling with those 2 stupid chimneys that I built on the firewall for the 2 fire suppression heads....the automatic head (in a previous post) is pressurized from the factory so you can't do anything to the line in order for it to penitrate the firewall perpendicular, and the hose (braided) limits the options so sort'a stuck with something sticking out from the firewall. Anyway, didn't like what I did so changed it... I think this gets closer to a clean solution.
71272

Finished the first round of block sanding, went through to metal in a few spots so touched them up with epoxy along with the fire suppression fix.
71273

[Sonar Chief]

Great job! Wow, that did clean up the visual element big time :thumbsup: Who's fire suppression system are you using?

Decisions, decisions .... :poke:

[Goosesdad]

Great job! Wow, that did clean up the visual element big time :thumbsup: Who's fire suppression system are you using?

Decisions, decisions .... :poke:

Thanks! - Don't know what I was thinking with my first approach, brain was off for at least the better part of a whole afternoon while I was building those chimney stacks!! :confused59:

I choose Safecraft for a few reasons; I like the 3M Novec agent, I liked the idea of the automatic heads in parallel with the manual....maybe overkill for us but I watched a guy, knocked out, in a sprint car fire, left an impression. And they were having a smoking deal at PRI. Customer service has been great. If I was going to do the automatic head again, I would have exactly mapped out the head location and line path before ordering, as the automatic line is pressurized from the factory. I sort of did that, but could have eliminated this mounting bracket if I just had the head mounted to the line with a 90 degree fitting from the factory.

I'm also going to do a 5lb, separate system for the interior.

I looked at SPA and FireBottle and Lifeline...all were solid solutions as well. Don't think there is a LatG sponsor for this one but hopefully someone will jump in here if they have another idea, probably should be a whole lot more conversation on this topic.

[Goosesdad]

Built a temp booth so I could contain sanding dust, as much as possible, and so I could spray primer. Just trying to manage the mess a bit.
71471

71472

Sprayed a final coat of polyester on the firewall. I will block it and paint next.
71473

[slimjim]

Great work on the booth, my garage will need a full overhaul once the car heads out to paint as the poly dust ruins everything!

[Goosesdad]

Great work on the booth, my garage will need a full overhaul once the car heads out to paint as the poly dust ruins everything!

Thanks! So true. I tried to convince myself that just doing the firewall wouldn't put dust in every possible nook and cranny within a 100' radius. Lying to myself when I know better seems to be common for me.

Bet it feels good to be so close to paint. Nice!

[TAC]

Just scanned through your build thread... looks awesome.
Nice work on the fiberglass parts. I cheat the mold process like you do, sometimes using the thin aluminum house flashing material or tin foil to do lay ups on.
On your inner front fiberglass liners there is a thin liner material similar to the foam board that will prevent the rocks coming off the tires from star cracking your gelcoat on the good side. It gets put under the last layer of glass.

[Goosesdad]

Just scanned through your build thread... looks awesome.
Nice work on the fiberglass parts. I cheat the mold process like you do, sometimes using the thin aluminum house flashing material or tin foil to do lay ups on.
On your inner front fiberglass liners there is a thin liner material similar to the foam board that will prevent the rocks coming off the tires from star cracking your gelcoat on the good side. It gets put under the last layer of glass.

Thank Gary. Agreed...was a cheater mold for sure. I would have built a proper mold if I thought someone here could benefit from it but I think my fenders are such a one-off that the gains for others would be small.

I think you are asking what the material is? It's a single layer of Kevlar but it's just in the area in front of the dry sump tank and really just to help with any larger object going through to the tank/lines/fittings. I would do 2 layers if I had to do it over, one is good...two solves it 100%. Just capitalizing on the better ballistic properties of the Kevlar in this area, I'm not really doing it to help with any spider cracks, though it would probably help there too. I'm going to gamble a bit with protecting the inners by doing a semi heavy coat of Raptor, maybe 4 layers on the part of the inners that can be seen from the engine bay. I built the inners so they could be removed without removing the fenders, sort of expect some repairs at some point. Hope that helps?

[glassman]

Love following this.
That garage though, killing it.
Reading nothing but nice things about Fesler...:D

[TAC]

Thank Gary. Agreed...was a cheater mold for sure. I would have built a proper mold if I thought someone here could benefit from it but I think my fenders are such a one-off that the gains for others would be small.

I think you are asking what the material is? It's a single layer of Kevlar but it's just in the area in front of the dry sump tank and really just to help with any larger object going through to the tank/lines/fittings. I would do 2 layers if I had to do it over, one is good...two solves it 100%. Just capitalizing on the better ballistic properties of the Kevlar in this area, I'm not really doing it to help with any spider cracks, though it would probably help there too. I'm going to gamble a bit with protecting the inners by doing a semi heavy coat of Raptor, maybe 4 layers on the part of the inners that can be seen from the engine bay. I built the inners so they could be removed without removing the fenders, sort of expect some repairs at some point. Hope that helps?
I was just wondering if you had done anything for the spider crack issue and I was saying that there is products for lamination for that issue. You have addressed it with the Kevlar so you should be covered to some degree.

[Goosesdad]

Love following this.
That garage though, killing it.
Reading nothing but nice things about Fesler...:D

Thanks Mike!

[Goosesdad]

I was just wondering if you had done anything for the spider crack issue and I was saying that there is products for lamination for that issue. You have addressed it with the Kevlar so you should be covered to some degree.

Ahhh. Got it. Would love to know about the product, appreciate any info you have.. Thanks.

[CamaroAJ]

Aw come on guys, I keep seeing the thread bumped up, but no pictures. Killin me over here.

[Goosesdad]

Aw come on guys, I keep seeing the thread bumped up, but no pictures. Killin me over here.

Ha! Well played AJ.

[Goosesdad]

Shot a few coats of OMNI 243 primer. Won't block sand for now. Paint and Raptor for another day. Hadn't planned on smoothing the inside but did a light sweep of filler just because I could/should.

[waynieZ]

They look good!

[Goosesdad]

Poking yourself in the eye with an ice pick or block sanding a firewall?

150 and 220 done, 400 next. Paint this weekend.

Hope everyone is safe and doing as well as can be expected.

[Musclerodz]

Poking yourself in the eye with an ice pick or block sanding a firewall?

150 and 220 done, 400 next. Paint this weekend.

Hope everyone is safe and doing as well as can be expected.

what color did we decide on?

[waynieZ]

This is looking sweet!

[Goosesdad]

what color did we decide on?

Hey Mike! Still thinking red or orange. Want some level of flake, but one way or another, will stick with 2 stage so that limits me a bit.

[Goosesdad]

Firewall painted/cleared this weekend.
First pic is sealer...DP-90 2:1:1/2(885 reducer)
The following pics are after paint and clear.
Deltron 9700 black. 1:1
PPG D8115 Matte Clear: 3:1:1 1/4
71671

71672

71673

71674

71675

71676

71677

[Musclerodz]

Firewall painted/cleared this weekend.
First pic is sealer...DP-90 2:1:1/2(885 reducer)
The following pics are after paint and clear.
Deltron 9700 black. 1:1
PPG D8115 Matte Clear: 3:1:1 1/4
71671

71672

71673

71674

71675

71676

71677

looks awesome. one the 8115 I use 2 full parts of reducer instead of the recommended 1.5. It helps it flow out nicer so it doesn't have that texture to it.

[DWC]

So smooth, very impressive.

Daniel

[two-piece]

Very impressive.

[214Chevy]

Whoop, there it is!!

[Spiffav8]

Every time I open this thread I am amazed.

:trophy-1302:

[Sonar Chief]

:trophy-1302: Great job with the firewall the hard labor pays off with beauty!!

[SSLance]

Looking good!

I think I'll take the ice pick to the eye instead... ;)

[CamaroAJ]

So I can send my car to get finished in about 2 weeks?

[waynieZ]

Wow that looks nice!

[Goosesdad]

So smooth, very impressive.

Daniel

Very impressive.

Whoop, there it is!!

Every time I open this thread I am amazed.

:trophy-1302:

:trophy-1302: Great job with the firewall the hard labor pays off with beauty!!


Looking good!

I think I'll take the ice pick to the eye instead... ;)

So I can send my car to get finished in about 2 weeks?

Wow that looks nice!


You guys are so encouraging, the positive energy and the depth of knowledge...wow! I'm so glad to be a part of this community.
Thank you. Hope everyone is safe!

[waynieZ]

To get to watch builds like this so are we!

[Goosesdad]

Fab'd up a mounting plate. The cabin fire bottle and some electronics will get mounted here.
71773

Some rust encapsulator and internal frame coating sprayed in the rear frame rails, inside the tubs and the rockers.
71774

Some sealer in a few places.
71775

Masked, scuffed, cleaned.
71776

Sprayed with Raptor. 22 tip, reduced by 10%, 12-18lbs. Used about a gallon.
71777

71778

71779

71780

[waynieZ]

Wow what a nice finish! I like that so much more than the ruff finish. Beautiful job.

[Roscoe03]

That looks amazing! Nice work.

[two-piece]

Looks killer

[WSSix]

Fantastic! Great job, John!

[streetbird]

wow I love the finish of the liner that way. What gun you taked for that?
What is the equivalent in mm for the .22 tip? and last question, what you taked to disolve the liner.

Thanks

[Goosesdad]

Wow what a nice finish! I like that so much more than the ruff finish. Beautiful job.

That looks amazing! Nice work.

Looks killer

Fantastic! Great job, John!

wow I love the finish of the liner that way. What gun you taked for that?
What is the equivalent in mm for the .22 tip? and last question, what you taked to disolve the liner.

Thanks

Thanks guys!!
No real fancy gun..Devilbiss Finishline. Think it's a $200 gun.
Tip sizes are in mm. So that is a 2.2mm tip.
I used PPG DT885 reducer. It's pretty expensive for this... I think you could use any good urethane reducer.
Pressure and material volume adjustments make the texture and thickness. This was my first time spraying it and I'm a total rookie with the gun. Honestly, it was very forgiving and responded well to adjustments including pattern. I dialed it tight for small areas and then to around a 4" spread for flat areas. Don't mess around after you are done spraying...get to cleaning the gun!!!

[camcojb]

Thanks guys!!
No real fancy gun..Devilbiss Finishline. Think it's a $200 gun.
Tip sizes are in mm. So that is a 2.2mm tip.
I used PPG DT885 reducer. It's pretty expensive for this... I think you could use any good urethane reducer.
Pressure and material volume adjustments make the texture and thickness. This was my first time spraying it and I'm a total rookie with the gun. Honestly, it was very forgiving and responded well to adjustments including pattern. I dialed it tight for small areas and then to around a 4" spread for flat areas. Don't mess around after you are done spraying...get to cleaning the gun!!!

I love that liner, had it on my Chevelle. Very clean and uniform look, and is awesome at hiding dust and debris on a car that's driven.

[streetbird]

Thanks for taking time to respond.
I will try it soon, I got dt1855, I suppose it will do the same job as the dt885.

[Goosesdad]

Powder coated the rear-end.
71888

Syringed in a little gun metal gray (color matched to the wheels) into the Currie letters, just for fun.
71889

[Goosesdad]

Long, long way to go here but here is the start of the headliner/A-piller panels. Capitalizing on it still being on the rotisserie.
71906

71907

71908

[OLDFLM]

Love you how you matched the front angle in the back with the rollbar!

Very "trick"!! Or as the kids say these days... "that's fire!" LOL

[Goosesdad]

Love you how you matched the front angle in the back with the rollbar!

Very "trick"!! Or as the kids say these days... "that's fire!" LOL

Ha. Thanks

[Goosesdad]

One layer of 3/4oz and one of 1 1/2 ounce mat.
72103

Even with a skim coat of filler, the whole headliner shouldn't be very heavy, it's pretty thin - if the filler made it to heavy, I take a splash mold of it and make a new part so there is no filler at all. It'll get covered with suede later.
72104

A layer of primer to insure the shape is uniform. I'll cut it all out this weekend.
72105

I oversized the mold in the front here just to help with shaping this area. This will obviously get cut back to fit nicely to the windshield.
72106


I'll put the seam at the top of the A Pillar.
72107

72108

[waynieZ]

You’re doing an amazing job, that looks great. All of the work you’ve done on this build is top notch. I love coming back for your updates.

[CamaroAJ]

I really like this idea. It would allow me to have the cage tucked up closer to the roof and I'd still be able to finish it out and look nice instead of fighting putting a headliner in it. Consider this another stolen idea I'm taking from you lol.

[214Chevy]

Man, that looks good!! I like it...

[jarhead]

WOW the headliner mold is cool!

[Goosesdad]

WOW the headliner mold is cool!

Man, that looks good!! I like it...

I really like this idea. It would allow me to have the cage tucked up closer to the roof and I'd still be able to finish it out and look nice instead of fighting putting a headliner in it. Consider this another stolen idea I'm taking from you lol.

You’re doing an amazing job, that looks great. All of the work you’ve done on this build is top notch. I love coming back for your updates.

Thanks guys!!
Take it AJ!! but I know you will do something cool to it - looking forward to seeing it! Let me know if you want any more pics. Not sure if headroom is an issue for you but it was for me. Under my headliner is 1/2"DEI insulation and then I used 6 RingBros billet washers/1/4-20 to bolt it down the roof where I had welded threaded bungs. You can't see it in these pics and I masked over them while glass'n but it's all tightened down and in place before I did the mold work for the sides/front and back so that roof piece would be in the exact - up as tight as possible, location.

I'm working to integrate a handle to ease entry/exit over the door bars and also for a hand hold for the passenger, (found a billet one from GZilla - need to machine down the feet so it's up tighter to the A-Pillar). And also going to integrate in an overhead console (sunglasses holder/map light/Homelink) - spent a few hours at the junkyard and found that late model Honda cars have a cool one that fit in the space well - ordered one from a 2020 Pilot. I'll post pics as I get that done.

[CamaroAJ]

Thanks guys!!
Take it AJ!! but I know you will do something cool to it - looking forward to seeing it! Let me know if you want any more pics. Not sure if headroom is an issue for you but it was for me. Under my headliner is 1/2"DEI insulation and then I used 6 RingBros billet washers/1/4-20 to bolt it down the roof where I had welded threaded bungs. You can't see it in these pics and I masked over them while glass'n but it's all tightened down and in place before I did the mold work for the sides/front and back so that roof piece would be in the exact - up as tight as possible, location.

I'm working to integrate a handle to ease entry/exit over the door bars and also for a hand hold for the passenger, (found a billet one from GZilla - need to machine down the feet so it's up tighter to the A-Pillar). And also going to integrate in an overhead console (sunglasses holder/map light/Homelink) - spent a few hours at the junkyard and found that late model Honda cars have a cool one that fit in the space well - ordered one from a 2020 Pilot. I'll post pics as I get that done.

Gauge pod for my boost gauge and carbon fiber in the center part with the rest wrapped in suede is what I'm thinking so far. I was also thinking I need to build another rotisserie so I can do all this and I need a cage done first lol.

[streetbird]

wow, that headliner is pretty badass

[Musclerodz]

Looks good. I had planned something similar in a first gen build, but I was going to bury it in the structure so it was minimally obtrusive.

[Goosesdad]

The UPS guy actually rolled his eyes at me.
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[ScotI]

The UPS guy actually rolled his eyes at me.


Did you tell him it could have been heavier??

[214Chevy]

John, where'd you get that sweet set up? PM me a price too if you don't mind. I'm in the market for one too.

[dhutton]

That headliner is awesome. You are an awesome multi talented builder.

Don

[Gmachine1911]

The UPS guy actually rolled his eyes at me.


Amateur!:lol:

[Goosesdad]

John, where'd you get that sweet set up? PM me a price too if you don't mind. I'm in the market for one too.

PM sent.

[chevyz240]

One layer of 3/4oz and one of 1 1/2 ounce mat.
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Even with a skim coat of filler, the whole headliner shouldn't be very heavy, it's pretty thin - if the filler made it to heavy, I take a splash mold of it and make a new part so there is no filler at all. It'll get covered with suede later.
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A layer of primer to insure the shape is uniform. I'll cut it all out this weekend.
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I oversized the mold in the front here just to help with shaping this area. This will obviously get cut back to fit nicely to the windshield.
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I'll put the seam at the top of the A Pillar.
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I really like this! It makes it look much more OEM!

[syborg tt]

Wow !!!!!

So many incredible pic, so many ideas, my head is spinning with new idea’s.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Goosesdad]

Thanks guys!

[Goosesdad]

The rear interior panels ready for some epoxy primer
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Primed
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[Goosesdad]

Masked and ready for Lizard Skin. Decided to use it on roof, not sure if I will use it elsewhere.
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Done.
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[waynieZ]

Wow they look great! Amazing what difference being one color makes. Nice.

[Goosesdad]

Final fitment test for these rear panels, headliner and a-pillar. Using a little DEI insulation on top the Lizard Skin, mainly just because there is room between the headliner and roof structure because of the ribs... , cheap/lightweight insurance imho.

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Can't see it in these pics but when I glass'd up the flanges on the panels, I left room for the suede material so the panels continued to meet up flush after the suede was glued down. Should be clean!
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The bottom of the a-pillar's are just left hanging for now, they will get integrated into the 'glass dash/door panel soon.
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[streetbird]

still impress by your work:thumbsup:

[ScotI]

Super clean.

[waynieZ]

Boy that looks so nice. It looks like you've been doing it for years.

[OLDFLM]

Just unbelievable work! "Tight Work!" as the kids used to say!

Are you using the DEI insulation on top of the Lizard Skin for noise or heat insulation or both?

[Goosesdad]

Thanks guys!

Ty, I used DEI's under carpet lite for a extra sound and heat insulation. Might be overkill but there was room under the headliner, so it seemed an easy decision. Just climbing in the car now, while on the rotisserie, already significantly more sound dead. Not sure what I will do for the rest of the interior for insulation and deadening, I did the roof now as I'm getting ready to take it off the rotisserie and don't plan on putting it back and spraying the roof now seemed like a good idea.

That said, the LSkin spray gun comes with both a straight tip and a 90 degree tip so spraying the roof would be easy at any time. Ohhh, you actually have read the product description! Ha. Well done LSkin.

[214Chevy]

Everything looks so damn good!!

[WSSix]

Very nice work, John. The roof of the car will reflect a lot of noise coming from below. What you did with the sound deadening was smart and will work very well at keeping road noice down inside the car.

[Goosesdad]

Getting the subframe painted so it can go on the car permanently. Taking a bit of a chance on the placement of the mounts for the bar that ties the front bars together but worst case they get relocated later.

Sprayed the sub and few other parts with some DP90. Will paint later this week.

[Musclerodz]

Make sure you top coat the dp90. it will not hold long term. it will fade and chalk.

[Goosesdad]

Make sure you top coat the dp90. it will not hold long term. it will fade and chalk.

Hey Mike! Yep...tomorrow.

[streetbird]

Hey Mike! Yep...tomorrow.

So you will keep us in touch tomorrow :)

[Goosesdad]

Was able to match the 75/25 gloss of the DSE powdercoat using Omni clear with a flattening agent. I broke the line at the welds so it matched pretty well. The match at the subframe connectors wasn't as good, so sanded the whole thing down and sprayed it with PPG black and then PPG 8115 clear. Much better all one sheen. Was just trying to keep the PCoat for toughness, wanted the roll bar to match the firewall...blah blah blah. Clearly a minor problem in today's world!

[Goosesdad]

Just a couple interior parts.
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[Goosesdad]

Built the molds for the trunk panels. Same as before, lay-up 'glass on top of these molds and then body work the outside later. No real, reasonable, way to make 'glass pieces any other way in this area. At least this method leaves the inside of the panels smooth and flat.
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The inner support structure for the decklid around the latch won't clear this panel but it will be easy to create a clean relief starting with an already straight and flat panel.
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2 layers of 1 1/2 ounce mat. Will let this cure for a couple weeks on the molds before cutting them out, cleaning them up and building the flanges.
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Started a little headliner modification to add a sunglasses holder and map light. Lots more to come here... will build this plug, then a splash mold of this area, then cut out the plug and laminate it up properly. Always planned this but again, will be easy to create this shape on an already straight and flat part.
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[waynieZ]

Very nice!

[214Chevy]

That headliner is killing it!! Love it...!!

[CamaroAJ]

Guess what other ideas I'm stealing? lol

[Goosesdad]

Progress on the plug for the mold. Used balsa so I could easily create a curve to flow with the headliner shape. Have no fear, this all gets cut out after the mold is made.
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Primed and ready for mold release.
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[Spiffav8]

Every time I check this thread I am amazed. Incredible work.

[Goosesdad]

Thanks guys!!!!

[Goosesdad]

Sprayed some red paint just to help with seeing air bubbles while laminating. Not using any gel coat here -- it's just a splash mold, so not really necessary in my opinion.
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4 coats of wax, 2 coats of PVA mold release, laminated with 4 layers of cloth. Then drilled for rivets.
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Mold removed and busted out the balsa plug.
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Cut open for laminating.
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4 coats of wax, 2 coats of PVA mold release, then riveted the mold to the headliner.
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Green sheen is the PVA.
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Laminated with 1 layer each of 3/4 ounce and 1 1/2 ounce mat. Mold removed. A little clean up and primer on the way.
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[bkswede]

Scanned quickly through your build thread ... there’s a ton of detail here and it’s amazing the work you’re doing! Really incredible job!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[EVIL SS]

You really don't shy away from work, do you? Lol, this is a killer build!

Dave

[Goosesdad]

Scanned quickly through your build thread ... there’s a ton of detail here and it’s amazing the work you’re doing! Really incredible job!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You really don't shy away from work, do you? Lol, this is a killer build!

Dave

Thank you!

[Goosesdad]

Finished the overhead console/headliner and re-primed it.
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Pulled out all the interior panels for one last sand blow out before it comes off the rotisserie.
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Put the interior panels back.
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Finished up the trunk panels, all of the flanges, mounts and the floor. Have a bud with a CNC router - will cut out for fuel pump access panel and will lighten up the MDF floor panel.
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[214Chevy]

Super nice work, all around...inside and out.

[waynieZ]

Those look great.

[Goosesdad]

Super nice work, all around...inside and out.

Those look great.

Thank you very much!

[Goosesdad]

Does everyone have that crew they can call..."can you come help me hold/lift/fit/test...?" This is mine; wife and great friends. Seemed cool to let them thread in the first final assembly bolts. Good times.
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[waynieZ]

It's great to have good family and friends there for support. The finish on your pre paint car is what I'm hoping for on my finish one! Beautiful prep work.
I always look forward to your up dates.

[Sonar Chief]

I was thinking the same thing ... great job!!!!!!

[streetbird]

you are pretty lucky to have a crew
I had help 2 or 3 times on mine, its not easy to manage heavy parts alone

[jarhead]

WOW, the console/headliner is way cool!

[Goosesdad]

WOW, the console/headliner is way cool!

Thanks Joe!!

[Goosesdad]

Been awhile! Hope everyone is well!
Starting all of the interior parts, dash, door panels and center console.
Planning on doing some carbon pieces, both laminated and formed so I thought I'd get a handle on working with it - done a fair amount of fiberglass but never really messed with Carbon.
Also wanted to test the Speedhut gauges.... They are real nice.
So..... built some parts for my golf cart as a learning exercise. Learned a lot! carbon definitely has some idiosyncrasies but isn't terribly difficult. Was really interested in seeing how it lays into complex curves. Finished with some PPG Matte clear.
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[camcojb]

You are one talented guy!! :king:

[Goosesdad]

In the makeshift booth... Just trying to keep all the sanding dust from coating every inch of the shop.
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Speaker mounts double as supports for the rear deck panel.
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Had some help from Mark at CarAudioFabrication, spec'ing out the sound system components. My only hard requirement was the Rockford Fosgate PM3 head unit. Mark is a great resource and helped with the rest. Here are rear speakers, Focal PC165FE's.
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Built some covers to keep the speakers protected from the bottom (trunk)
Just some quick molds for some removable fiberglass boxes.
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From inside the trunk.
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[Goosesdad]

You are one talented guy!! :king:

Thank you Jody! Haven't forgotten our conversation, just being cautious!
More to come. Thank you for your insight, you are a class act!

[waynieZ]

WOW! Those parts came out amazing! Jack of all trades and master of them all.

[214Chevy]

Sweet Lord Jesus?!!:king:

[Juggernaut]

...
Had some help from Mark at CarAudioFabrication, spec'ing out the sound system components. My only hard requirement was the Rockford Fosgate PM3 head unit. Mark is a great resource and helped with the rest. Here are rear speakers, Focal PC165FE's.
...


That is so cool. I love watching Mark's YouTube videos; always learn a lot from him.

Great work on your car!!

[OLDFLM]

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Dumb question in a thread with such an incredible car... but what lights are those?

[Goosesdad]

Dumb question in a thread with such an incredible car... but what lights are those?

Hi Ty. Thanks. They are Lithonia 4' LED. LBL4-LP840. With the Surface Wraparound lens with the opaque liner removed. Work great. Have them throughout my shop. These are just temp mounted in this silly excuse for a paint/sanding booth, but they give plenty of light!

[Goosesdad]

Had to modify the EStopp a bit (shorten) so it would fit with this center console. Ed at Control Cables can shorten the output cable. Great job, inexpensive, fast and great customer service. Shortened the overall length of the system by over 5". Allowed me to cut down the cable separator mount. Just temp'd in here as I don't have the calipers mounted so I can't test it thoroughly but have every confidence it's solid.
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[Goosesdad]

Starting the plug for the fiberglass dash/center console. Have had this design in my head from the start, finally getting to see if it will work!

I realize that putting the all of gauges off to the side is a little unconventional but with the seats lowered, this actually puts the tach very much in view without maneuvering your vision around the steering wheel. With shift lights and warning lights on the other critical gauges, this seems to work really well.....at least while looking at printed images of the gauges while sitting in the seat, in the shop! Yep... making race car sounds while shifting come with this test, sorta helps...adds vibration to the mix!

The GPS will be removable and a track monitor will fit in the space. Not sure which one yet. Had originally planned on a mini Ipad but it doesn't really fit in the space and I couldn't get a good handle on an integrated remote antenna and charging cord.

Very early stages right now but conceptually, it's working so far.

Trying to keep the factory shape on the dash, just enhanced.

Open to thoughts and opinions.
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[syborg tt]

Wow, I can’t wait to see the next set of pictures.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Beechy]

John.....great vision as usual :cheers:

It's hard to see from your side-on image but it seems you have three separate curves at the moment??? I would make the instrument mounting surface as one continuous curve (in top view).

Because each instrument has a flat mounting flange, and you main surface is curved.....this is a negative curve in your case, you have to raise or depress the surface locally around each shape. This will look much sweeter than having the main surface stopping and starting.
Attached is my Camaro instrument fascia which is one-piece vacuum formed ABS over a plywood/bondo male mold. You can see that each penetration has its own flat flange about 3/16" wide. The radii around the holes are much softer than you will be able to achieve in fiberglass, but I had to go that route for the vacuum form material to flow into the flat areas. Top left air outlet needed raising AND lowering the attaching flange because of the complex (compound) curve at the end of the dash.
BTW....that grill and surround are a commercial stainless steel sugar shaker like a donut store would have.....shhhh.....our secret :rolleyes:

Also my main crash pad surface is a positive curve (with the center higher than the ends) ...... The central warning light area was then machined flat, the border trenched out, and the depressed flanges go deeper again. NEVER CREATE A FLAT SURFACE ON AN AUTO BODY because surrounding curves will make it look hollow.......also shrinkage around edges when the resin cures will pull your surface hollow. Even on a long wide panel that you want to look flat (like a fascia between tail lamps for example) should have 3/16" positive or negative curve in it......never use the plywood dead flat.
My instrument pad is loosey goosey compared to what yours can be ....cos mine is racecar and both left hand and right hand were done in TWO EIGHT HOUR DAYS! You will get better definition using gel coat and glass.

[Beechy]

There you go John.....alternative sections thru.

Upper section is obviously instruments square to the car....not ideal visually...also prolly get reflections on outer instruments.

Lower is the best.....faces parallel to base surface. More driver focused.

More options.....mount them deeper......tilt them halfway between the angles shown.

Note: these are NOT the images Marty was looking forward to :theresa:

[WSSix]

I think the dash layout if great.

I put the tach dead center above the steering column in my car. With the speedo moved down to beside the steering column arch, I could actually see the whole thing. The factory gauges were cut off at the top because of the steering wheel and how I sit in the car.

[Goosesdad]

Thanks Trey and Jim.

Jim - wow - thanks for all that detail...appreciate all you say! I'll send some more pics this weekend. The insert is actually 3 planes, to do what you suggest as having the gauges in direct line of sight. And then the outer trim is curved.

And....doing that CAD, over and above sir!

[Goosesdad]

Didn't have huge progress this weekend but some...! Keeping the plug so there are reliefs for the mold and keeping proper gaps for the dash wrap material (leather or alcantara) along with the insert for the gauges....just time consuming.
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Mock'd up some gauges (mdf painted black with color printed gauge faces) just to get the feel of the layout in 3D. This insert will likely be carbon. Not sure yet. Of course all of this wood is just mock up for the fiberglass mold. Lots more to come.
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Started the front edge of the dash, will build it back to the gauge cluster next.
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[waynieZ]

Damn your practice gauges had me fooled, having them like that gives you a great sense of the final piece. Nice job.

[214Chevy]

Very nice!!

[Tinker]

John, it's a shame you are rushing this project.:sarcasm_smiley:
Seriously though You have a car that has detail second to none. Be proud of yourself and thanks for sharing your talents!

[Ketzer]

[B]Starting the plug for the fiberglass dash/center console. Have had this design in my head from the start, finally getting to see if it will work!

I realize that putting the all of gauges off to the side is a little unconventional

I for one, LOVE unconventional!!! Great idea keeping true to the basic shape but doing your own layout.


Jeff-

[Goosesdad]

Very nice!!

Damn your practice gauges had me fooled, having them like that gives you a great sense of the final piece. Nice job.

John, it's a shame you are rushing this project.:sarcasm_smiley:
Seriously though You have a car that has detail second to none. Be proud of yourself and thanks for sharing your talents!

I for one, LOVE unconventional!!! Great idea keeping true to the basic shape but doing your own layout.


Jeff-

Thanks guys!! Trying to keep some of the factory lines..