Big Ford Ends or Brand New 12 Bolt

[barrrf]

Ok, so on my Chevelle I wanted to do CTS-V brakes on the rear. Theyre fixed calipers so Id have to figure out to deal with pad knock back. I thought at first I could just do c-clip eliminators but from what Ive been reading the past few days the c-clip eliminators are more hassle than theyre worth. So the next best option I thought wouldve been to hack off the axle tubes and install the big ford ends - the only problem I have with that is my lack of trust for the local machine shops.

Currently, my car is Hotchkis Rear suspension components. They seem to be fine so Id like to keep them. Also, and this goes against what everyone else would do, I do NOT want to put floating calipers on. So with that in mind -

What would you do? Big Ford Ends on current 12 bolt? Buy new 12 bolt? Something else Im not thinking of?

[Build-It-Break-it]

I'd sell the 12 bolt and just buy a ford 9" or a floater rear end.

[barrrf]

Whats it worth? Fully functioning, posi, 3.42 gears.

[Sieg]

I'd do a little research and decode the stampings on housing so you really know what you have. That could add to the desirability of the unit for someone desiring a 'correct' restoration.

A local Craigs List search can give you an idea of local market pricing. Around here (Oregon 1-5 corridor) I saw prices anywhere from $500 to $1,500 and one for $2500 for a 12 bolt posi. The later was coded to a '66 Nova.

I'd guess $800 to $1,250 as an average, depending on how fast you want to turn it.

[barrrf]

Good call. I didn't think about checking the stamping.

[Vince@Meanstreets]

then there are these things:

http://www.lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=49657

http://www.lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=48782

[Build-It-Break-it]

then there are these things:

http://www.lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=49657

http://www.lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=48782

I was going to post those to but he wants to run ctsv rear brakes.

[barrrf]

According to Moser, the only problem with running their eliminators is that the aluminum block will flex and eventually leak.

So I took apart their block and reverse engineered it and am going to have 2 made out of steel (4340PH) - or stainless steel - which ever happens to be sitting around.

Thoughts on that?

[SlowProgress]

My Mark Williams C-clip eliminator always leaked on one side. I pretty much decided it was leaking where the bearing adapter squeezes the backing plate up against the axle flange. The adapter O-ring seals to the backing plate, but nothing seals the backing plate to the axle flange, unless you make a gasket or use sealer of some type. I finally gave up trying to make the leak go away and put Torino ends on this time around. Just make sure all the surfaces are clean and flat. Make sure the backing plate seals to the axle flange (which hopefully is straight). I guess if something is warped, the steel bearing carrier is more likely to pull it straight. I never really thought it was possible the adapter was flexing.

[Sieg]

Remind me why you need to eliminate the C-Clip axles?

[barrrf]

To eliminate pad knock back caused by axle shift in c-clip style axles when running fixed calipers? At least, this is what Ive read.

Would be nice if it worked for others working on a budget that want a nice braking system that isnt floating caliper style.

Also, Why does strange say their eliminators are for use with drum brakes only? What is the issue?

[SlowProgress]

I know you are just kidding a little (maybe). I put mine in years ago because I drag raced a little and didn't want to lose an axle. I had stock axles due to poor funding. I worked as a mechanic for a few years and I just think the Ford style bearing is better. I saw a lot of worn axles from the GM roller bearing riding on them. When I put my big brakes on I figured the stock 12-bolt bearings could be improved with the Ford (or other) replacement. I really enjoyed working with the Torino ends and it seemed to make a good setup. I haven't seen any posts to confirm it but it seems the GM style roller bearing would also lead to more brake knock-back because the axles have a little more end play. Those are my simple reasons.

[barrrf]

I know you are just kidding a little (maybe). I put mine in years ago because I drag raced a little and didn't want to lose an axle. I had stock axles due to poor funding. I worked as a mechanic for a few years and I just think the Ford style bearing is better. I saw a lot of worn axles from the GM roller bearing riding on them. When I put my big brakes on I figured the stock 12-bolt bearings could be improved with the Ford (or other) replacement. I really enjoyed working with the Torino ends and it seemed to make a good setup. I haven't seen any posts to confirm it but it seems the GM style roller bearing would also lead to more brake knock-back because the axles have a little more end play. Those are my simple reasons.

Which part am I kidding about?

[SlowProgress]

Oh that does read funny. I was responding to Sieg ! We must have posted up at exactly the same time.

Remind me why you need to eliminate the C-Clip axles?

I agree with you on the knock back. I am not sure about Strange but the Mark Williams kit I bought years ago used a ball bearing that was only good for straight line driving. If it is something like that then maybe it won't keep the rotor positioned right for disk brakes - but I am just guessing.

[barrrf]

Ah I see. I should probably just pony up and get the new axle. But I'll try a few wrong things first and THEN I'll do that.