Finally.. some REAL progress on Penny..

[Steve1968LS2]

It's funny.. I'm so busy with cars for work that I have little time for my own car. Now that she is a "story" I can justify some wrench time :)

Went to Best In Show today and worked with Dale to build the front subframe. Took all of three hours with stops for pictures.. Everything went together great. We had to modify the shocks to fit (easy) and we were a bit stumped on the splined sway bar arrangement, but came up with a solution.

The subframe is very nice and so far seems well done. The project should move pretty quick now.. On Thursday we will bolt on the subframe and start plumbing the brakes.

[Rybar]

Lookin good Steve :thumbsup:

[B Schein]

You have the sway bar arms on the wrong sides. Flip them left to right and they will clear the tie rods. It looks like you cut into them I hope that is just an elusion form the picture

I still have those pictures of the sub frame connectors, pm me your email and I will send them to you tomorrow

[Steve1968LS2]

You have the sway bar arms on the wrong sides. Flip them left to right and they will clear the tie rods. It looks like you cut into them I hope that is just an elusion form the picture

I still have those pictures of the sub frame connectors, pm me your email and I will send them to you tomorrow

:pat:

We didn't cut into them in that pic.. They clear the tie rods fine how we have them. What we didn't have was bolts long enough for the "S" shaped deal with the spacers and such. We ended up modifying the arms to delete the spacers all together and still have the heim joints straight up and down. I will call ya tomorrow to discuss. Most likely our having them backwards caused the distance to be larger than it normally is (which is why the arms didn't work right.)

The pics we had showed the arms bent in but not where they attach to the sway bar so we didn't realize they were upside down. I think our modification will work fine, but I will call ya tomorrow to make sure :)

The subframe is sweet.. people in the shop kept coming by and commenting on how nice the welds were, how it seemed well engineered, etc..

Email them subframe pics to [email protected] .. and thanks!

[camcojb]

Look super Steve. Doing a great job.

Jody

[mazspeed]

I think it looks like junk. I think you should just sell it too me cheap :unibrow:

No that looks awesome. I can't wait to see that car finished.

[awr68]

I can't wait to see it all together with all the new paint work and parts! What color did you paint the close out panel?

[Steve1968LS2]

I can't wait to see it all together with all the new paint work and parts! What color did you paint the close out panel?

Nothing yet.. gonna be either a flat/satin black or a flat/satin charcoal grey (to match the wheels)

[4mm]

The Wilwood calipers in red look very nice, much better than black. I love how the small details make a nice difference on an already awesome frame. Don't forget to post pics of the anodized pulleys! :captain:

[Speedster]

Very nice Steve. Looks like it is coming together. Glad you found a solution to your sway bar problem. Sweet.

[Sales@Dutchboys]

Looks good ....Nice work! :thumbsup:


-Paul

[Payton King]

Like the brakes. so do I need to mail you the spacers and/or get measurements or did you come up with something else?

[Steve1968LS2]

Like the brakes. so do I need to mail you the spacers and/or get measurements or did you come up with something else?

A pic would be nice.. thanks!

There was no real "problem" with the sway bar.. we just think we came up with a better idea.. whats the fun if you don't modify stuff?? lol

[XTRMEASURES]

i like that setup
wish i had something like that for my 80 camaro

[61Bubbletop]

Very cool Steve...Looks Great! :thumbsup: :yes:

[Diognes56]

Looking good :) .

David

[markss28]

Do you know any where I can get an entire front clip like that for $15.00 ?

Just asking.

[Steve1968LS2]

Pics from today.. it's a REAL car now with four tires on the ground!!

http://www.lifeinwidescreen.com/siihp/shop3.jpg

http://www.lifeinwidescreen.com/siihp/shop4.jpg

Went in easy and we squared it all up. Installed the Wilwood master and figured out the location of the proportioning valve and clutch master (couldn't get myself to mount it to the fire wall). The brakes really fill up the wheels nice.

Also figured out a sweet way to do the steering column so that it looks super clean from the engine bay. Next we have to bend up so stainless brake lines when the materials get here. In a week or so I will drop in the LS2/T56.. progress.. woot!

[Stuart Adams]

Nice. Going to be cool.

[Sales@Dutchboys]

Looking good steve.....Are you going to put the same hood on it with the new motor?

-Paul

[Steve1968LS2]

Looking good steve.....Are you going to put the same hood on it with the new motor?

-Paul

No.. tall cowls should only be ran when you HAVE to run them.. I will be going with a standard cowl hood :)

[Sales@Dutchboys]

:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: SWEET! that will look killer! Nice work.

-Paul

[Rick D]

Hi Steve who makes those wheels and what size are they? Looks awsome :hail: :hail:

[Steve1968LS2]

Hi Steve who makes those wheels and what size are they? Looks awsome :hail: :hail:

Forgelines.. 18x9 and 18x11

[4mm]

Damn Steve, it all looks very nice. Penny has come a long way. :thumbsup:

[67Sally]

The car is coming along nicely Steve.
W.

[almcbri]

Your car looks great. Your gonna be driving that thing before long :thumbsup:

[awr68]

Forgelines.. 18x9 and 18x11

Really? I always thought those were 12s on the back...they are 335s, right??

[Steve1968LS2]

Really? I always thought those were 12s on the back...they are 335s, right??

They are 335's.. with room for 355s if I wanted..

Thats just what the invoice says on the wheels.. I am going to measure them once the tires are dismounted.

[Payton King]

It looks really good! Glad you have the time to work on it and do my little errands as well.

You may need to move the clutch res to the other side of the the MC I think the header tube on #5 makes a loop about right there. It was close on my booster, but may not be on yours since you are running manual brakes.

[Steve1968LS2]

It looks really good! Glad you have the time to work on it and do my little errands as well.

You may need to move the clutch res to the other side of the the MC I think the header tube on #5 makes a loop about right there. It was close on my booster, but may not be on yours since you are running manual brakes.

Yea, I can't see the header coming that close to the Master Cylinder.. manual brakes for the win! lol

I just couldn't get myself to punch more holes in the firewall. If I have to I will move it and just make another bracket.

How much room between the back of your heads and your firewall? Could you send me a pic of that and of your sway bar links? I am working out where to mount my coil packs.

[Redaddiction]

Looks good I have the same setup on the way to me minus the brakes and am using a 423 ci ls1/t56.

Did you modify the tranny tunnel for the t-56 ?

[Steve1968LS2]

Looks good I have the same setup on the way to me minus the brakes and am using a 423 ci ls1/t56.

Did you modify the tranny tunnel for the t-56 ?

Yea, we welded on the pieces supplied by 21st Century. It ends up raising the trans tunnel about 1.75 inches.

[Redaddiction]

Yea, we welded on the pieces supplied by 21st Century. It ends up raising the trans tunnel about 1.75 inches.

Thanks I can't wait to get mine here so I can put it togther it looks great.

Marc

[Payton King]

I have not gotten you photos yet of the swaybar set-up. The distance of the motor to the firewall is the same distance as stock. If you are going to relocate the coils, it will have to be a tricky bracket on each fender well...knowing you are not going to drill that sweet firewall.

Here is another heads up. You will not be able to get to the bleeder on the throw out.

choices:

1. drill a hole in the side of the tunnel and then use a removable plug.

2. before you put the engine and transmission together remove the bleeder and make one that extends from the throw out with a braided line and use a bleeder valve at the end (russel and aeroquip both have one of these). A & A corvette makes one but it has a bend at the throw out that will not work with an f-body style bell housing. They may make you one with a straight end on it

3. bleed the throw out with the master attached before you put the engine in the car. Solves all of your problems unless you need to bleed it later.

[Steve1968LS2]

I went to the shop today and saw this.. what the hell are they doing to my car!!! :willy:

http://www.lifeinwidescreen.com/siihp/penny1.jpg

[Sales@Dutchboys]

What were they doing?

-Paul

[68protouring454]

looks like they are installing a lateral dynamics 3 link, which is gonna be killer, steve does the car have narrowed frame rails?? if so wil the rear crossmember be modified?

jake

[Steve1968LS2]

looks like they are installing a lateral dynamics 3 link, which is gonna be killer, steve does the car have narrowed frame rails?? if so wil the rear crossmember be modified?

jake

Yes it does.. instead of going at an angle back these go straight back. Mark cut the crossmember down a bit and voila! it fit like a champ.. Nice to know the system is this flexable.. this is a good test of the product since little in the back of my Camaro is factory..

We pulled out all the old stuff today. Cleaned up all the old weld marks (from the old 4-link) and welded in the modified crossmember. Tomorrow we will put in the front support and weld in the cover parts. finish up on Sunday. It's easier than I thought. Of course my opinion could change tomorrow.. lol

[MaxHarvard]

Looking good man! cant wait to see it done! :)

[71Nova]

awwwww I am so jelous. I didn't know you were going to go with a 3 link. That is going to be so nice when done!!

[Steve1968LS2]

Just a fun shot.. I was bored.. lol

http://www.lifeinwidescreen.com/siihp/fun.jpg

[Steve1968LS2]

My wife is studying for a test tomorrow so I'm bored.. a pick of the finished steering. Orderded a custom length splined rod rather than a generic D rod.

http://www.lifeinwidescreen.com/siihp/penny2.jpg

[tndude]

Looking good! :thumbsup:

[awr68]

HOw sweet it is!! I thought you were going to wait for the 3-link? Do some testing with both for a direct comparison?

Keep up the good work, that is one hell of a car!! :thumbsup:

Love the wheels!!!! ;)

[Steve1968LS2]

HOw sweet it is!! I thought you were going to wait for the 3-link? Do some testing with both for a direct comparison?

Keep up the good work, that is one hell of a car!! :thumbsup:

Love the wheels!!!! ;)

The four-link was not safe to take on the track.. no way I'm gonna wad the car up for a test.. :willy:

[tracy]

That Wilwood MC looks great. Have you always been running without PBs? Are you happy with this?

[Steve1968LS2]

That Wilwood MC looks great. Have you always been running without PBs? Are you happy with this?

Yep.. I see no need for power brakes if your system is designed right. PB's were invented to help activate the brakes with less effort. This helped women and others work the braking systems easier. It's simply a force multiplier.

My '69 stopped great. You just had to push harder to get it to stop faster. the joke was:

car guy: How fast does it stop with manual brakes
me: As fast as you WANT it to stop

Plus I hate clutter and I like the more mechanical feel of manual brakes

[tracy]

I have been running manual brakes in my 69 and it worked fine. I am making many changes to the car right now and I was trying to decide to stick with Manual, Hydraboost or Vac..I think I will just keep it manual and see how that works out after I get back together. I really like the looks of the Wilwood MC.. I may have to spring for one of those.

[Sales@Dutchboys]

Like the setup steve looking good. :thumbsup:

-Paul

[Speedster]

Steve -
The brake and steering setup look great. Is that some custom plate that you had made to mount the master cylinder and a remote reservoir for a clutch ?

[Steve1968LS2]

Steve -
The brake and steering setup look great. Is that some custom plate that you had made to mount the master cylinder and a remote reservoir for a clutch ?

That plate is from ATS and is GREAT for mounting the clutch master.. you can find their contact info on the left..

[radrambler]

Penny Looked Good Before

Now She Should Perform Like She Looks...wicked!!!!

Are You Excited?.....all The Latest Goods Under Your Latest Ride....
Hell, Id Be Pumped .....do You Have An Aprox Finish Date????

Looking Good ....keep Posting...

Radrambler

[mazspeed]

Steve, the car looks great. I have to AGAIN steal your ideas on how to rebuild mine in the winter :D

[Speedster]

That plate is from ATS and is GREAT for mounting the clutch master.. you can find their contact info on the left..

Thanks Steve. :thumbsup: I will contact them/Tyler.

[Rybar]

Steve, it's looking real good. Those pictures you are taking are great! :thumbsup:

[Steve1968LS2]

Well, it's in. :woot:

The front support is the toughest part. Mark got it installed in about 4-5 hours. It's mainly a "cut.. test fit.. cut.. test fit" until its right. My narrowed rear is on the way and once it's powder painted it can all get installed. Not any tougher than installing mini-tubs.

http://www.lifeinwidescreen.com/siihp/lateral.jpg

[Sales@Dutchboys]

looks sweet under their. great job.

-Paul

[tyoneal]

Steve:

Your car loooks great. As soon as your build is finished, be sure and let us know how she handles, and how Penny is different than what you would normally expect with a stock rear.

Thanks again, :thumbsup:

tyoneal

[evilzee28]

Steve, looking at the picture of the car from the rear is that the final height the suspension bracketry sits at? The reason I ask is that the perpendicular arm that's visible on the passenger side appears to be below the scrub line ie it's hanging lower than the rim of the wheel. If it is, this is very dangerous, as if you have a blowout on the rear the car won't run on the tyre but the suspension arm instead which could be catastrophic. Maybe it's just the angle the pics taken from, but worth checking all the same :) looking good though.

[71Nova]

The wheels that are on Penny in the picture are smaller diameter than the wheels that are going to be on the car. My guess is that those wheels are just for moving Penny around while work is being done to her.

[evilzee28]

The wheels that are on Penny in the picture are smaller diameter than the wheels that are going to be on the car. My guess is that those wheels are just for moving Penny around while work is being done to her.

I figured that they were smaller diameter for rolling the car at this stage, but if you sight where the bottom of the bracket is in the pic it's very marginal even with larger dia tyres. It might well be the angle of the pic, but still worth making sure it's ok. If you do have to run larger diameter tyres with that set up to avoid the bracketry being below the scrub line, then it's a dangerous bit of kit & potential purchasers should be made aware by the company that manufactured it that it requires larger dia wheels/tyres to work safely. Is it that the brackets are temporary & supporting the cars weight in place of the coilovers?? Even if this is the case, the bolt still looks too low.hth Please tell me I'm wrong ;)

[68protouring454]

you seem to be a real hero at whatever you set your mind too, damn a painting genious now a susp designer, since your so smart, i cannot believe your own eyes did not see the 18 inch rim on the front of the car, or better yet in all the other pics of the car you can see what the rear wheels are, or even better then that my post about the 3 link and the direct behind the car view of this susp, when is your hitting the market?
and again being so savvy as you, this is a pro touring site, and you need to have 17-18 tires for the most performance as well as needing really 18's nowadays to fit the 14/13 inch brake set ups, so i would say they have things covered, last i checked they have said multiple times that this kit needs at least a 17 inch tire.
and my guess from actualling reading this thread like a normal one does is that steve is waiting on his custom width axle so he does not have to do a backspace change to his wheels, so more then likely its a lateral dynamics stock width rear, where as he needs it to be a bit shorter,thus needing his killer racing wheel rear tires on there, did you actually read any of this thread????????????

[Payton King]

The rear looks great. Will you still be able to run the exhaust that was on the car or will you need to modify it?

[Steve1968LS2]

Steve, looking at the picture of the car from the rear is that the final height the suspension bracketry sits at? The reason I ask is that the perpendicular arm that's visible on the passenger side appears to be below the scrub line ie it's hanging lower than the rim of the wheel. If it is, this is very dangerous, as if you have a blowout on the rear the car won't run on the tyre but the suspension arm instead which could be catastrophic. Maybe it's just the angle the pics taken from, but worth checking all the same :) looking good though.

Keep in mind this is just so we can roll the car around.. nothing is set up and there aren't even shocks on the car yet. I have seen a "finished" system and no part hangs near or below the rim of the wheel :)

[Steve1968LS2]

The rear looks great. Will you still be able to run the exhaust that was on the car or will you need to modify it?

Yes, but not without a redesign. The old system went straigth out and will have to pop up over the axle. Hell, I might redesign the whole thing. I dug the NASCAR tips but I would rather have good handling than a cool looking exhaust

[Steve1968LS2]

steve is waiting on his custom width axle so he does not have to do a backspace change to his wheels, so more then likely its a lateral dynamics stock width rear,

Bingo :)

Also, the bar that is holding up the car (in place of the yet to arrive shocks) hangs lower than the shock will. I think I said that earlier..

Anyways.. here's a more done system. I think thier newer design even has more clearance than this.

http://www.lateral-dynamics.com/gallery/plum_floored/Mopar01.jpg

[evilzee28]

Keep in mind this is just so we can roll the car around.. nothing is set up and there aren't even shocks on the car yet. I have seen a "finished" system and no part hangs near or below the rim of the wheel :)

Thanks for the honest reply Steve, unlike other knuckleheads that frequent this forum that think they're being smart with their disrespectful comments. :)

[Mean 69]

The unit shown under the purple Mopar is the original design, this particular car uses 20" wheels so the bracket height was not an issue. We have gone back and snugged things up, but the setup will still require a minimum of a 17" wheel in the back for clearance to ground in case of catastrophic tire failure. The lower control arm bracket and shock bracket were moved up a bit, the change on the geometry was minimal, and there is no reduction in suspensions travel as a result of the slight tweak. Steve pointed out that the flat bar is just a strap to hold the car off of the ground so we can roll it around while the "real" rear end is being completed and powder coated.

Mark

[Matt@Lateral Dynamics]

Please tell me I'm wrong ;) Okie dokie. :)

[68protouring454]

disrespectfull, maybe alittle, however why not read whats in front of your own eyes and look at the pics a bit closer before you jump on some make shift bandwagon

[Steve1968LS2]

Thanks for the honest reply Steve, unlike other knuckleheads that frequent this forum that think they're being smart with their disrespectful comments. :)

No offense, but you've had your share of being the "knucklehead" in theads.. I thought your name seemed familiar so I looked up some of your comments.

EXACTLY, people are afraid to "use" their cars in case they get dirty, so why do you all need the bragging rights of big engines, wild suspension & brakes when all the car is gonna do is hold down grass at a show. Whoopey do!! All show, no go!


This is just a back patters association


So, looks like you can dish it out.. a phrase about people in glass houses not throwing stones comes to mind.. now you and Jake behave or I will exercise my massive mod powers :D

[evilzee28]

disrespectfull, maybe alittle, however why not read whats in front of your own eyes and look at the pics a bit closer before you jump on some make shift bandwagon

Jake, the only reason I posted the reply was because looking at the picture the point where the bolt goes through the bracket "looks" lower than the scrub line & if that were the case I felt it to be dangerous.Certainly wouldn't want to see Penny have a nasty accident due to a blow out if that were the case. If you look at my post it also says that I realise that the wheels are only on there to roll the car around. I also mentioned about the coilovers not being on there, plus I did say it might be the angle of the pic, so at no time was I trying to be smart about it.I've not seen it say that you must run 17" wheels or bigger,maybe I missed it, but by the same token someone with 15"/16" wheels might order the kit without realising this also,...who knows?

Steve, yeah I've been a knucklehead for sure. I'm sure that everyone says or does something they may later regret at somepoint in their lives. I've said things here & in the cold light of day regreted them. It's just that unfortunately I have a very quick temper & when I've been verbally attacked here in the past I've retaliated by posting how I feel right at that time, without taking time out to let my anger subside. I didn't post on this thread to be slagged off by someone, I did it out of concern...Sorry :thumbsup:

[Steve1968LS2]

ok.. both people said thier peace.. now back to me, me, me.. :rofl:

All further off-topic comments will be sent back to the random protons from which they came.

[68protouring454]

either way steve my car is gonna be way more badass,lol
:yes:

[Steve1968LS2]

either way steve my car is gonna be way more badass,lol
:yes:

Yea, you keep thinking that skippy.. I noticed you had them hard tires on there.. Don't they sell sticky tires out east?.. :P

[race-rodz]

Yea, you keep thinking that skippy.. I noticed you had them hard tires on there.. Don't they sell sticky tires out east?.. :P


some people gotta buy tires that work in the rain...not everybody gets to live in 364.5 days of sunshine and dry pavement :lol:

[Steve1968LS2]

some people gotta buy tires that work in the rain...not everybody gets to live in 364.5 days of sunshine and drive pavement :lol:

Rain?? :cool:

[race-rodz]

just wait till you see jakes studded 345's for winter driving :rofl:

[Damn True]

just wait till you see jakes studded 345's for winter driving :rofl:


....a must have for dragging ones ice-fishing shack out onto the frozen lake.

[Mean 69]

Hey dudes, don'[t laugh too hard! It is actually raining out here today. Well, there have been sprinkles, most of it doesn't even touch the ground before it evaporates. Pretty crazy though, it never rains here in the summer.

Yes, I have grown soft due to the weather out here. Bite me! ;)
M

[Damn True]

Dude

you gonna be around the shop this evening or next?

[Matt@Lateral Dynamics]

but by the same token someone with 15"/16" wheels might order the kit without realising this also
You'll kindly note that there is no online order form on our website, and probably won't ever be. This was done on purpose...we talk to every single customer to make sure they are getting exactly what they want, even if it isn't our kit.

With that said, the "product" page isn't set in stone, and I think we'll be tweaking it here and there to cut down on the repetitive questions.

[Garage Dog 65]

Hi Steve,

Awesome progress sir !!!

Quick question from the picts. I'm doing a C5 front end on a hot rod and need to lower the steering rack as low as possible. The C5 engine sets behind the rack and is down low in stock form. I need to run the engine over the rack and will install a GTO front sump pan - but still need a little more room. Saw your setup and noticed you removed the upright steering arms - and added a bolt on arm that appears to be lower. Can you provide the manufacture info of your rack and those arms ?

Keep up the great work and Thanks !!

PS, my project is putting a 2002 C5 suspension and drivetrain under a 65 porsche 356 coupe.... strange - but fun.

The Dog.

[Steve1968LS2]

Not much of an update.. got my Toyos mounted up. I like the look..

http://www.lifeinwidescreen.com/siihp/tire1.jpg

And I got my oiling system figured out and bought..

http://www.lifeinwidescreen.com/siihp/filter1.jpg

[Steve1968LS2]

Hi Steve,

Awesome progress sir !!!

Quick question from the picts. I'm doing a C5 front end on a hot rod and need to lower the steering rack as low as possible. The C5 engine sets behind the rack and is down low in stock form. I need to run the engine over the rack and will install a GTO front sump pan - but still need a little more room. Saw your setup and noticed you removed the upright steering arms - and added a bolt on arm that appears to be lower. Can you provide the manufacture info of your rack and those arms ?

Keep up the great work and Thanks !!

PS, my project is putting a 2002 C5 suspension and drivetrain under a 65 porsche 356 coupe.... strange - but fun.

The Dog.

The subframe came from 21st century street machines.. not sure what part of the steering you are talking about. 21st modified the rack and steering arrangement to work with thier subframe. I think that's what you were refering to. Maybe they can help you out.

Your project sounds way cool.. start a thread and post some pics.. we love pics here.. lol

[EFI]

I like the look of your rims and tires too! Very nice!

[Steve1968LS2]

Mark has been hard at work welding stuff on my car.. man, he does nice work. My 3rd member showed up today and the rear is now in powder paint. The 17th is the tentative date where we start the engine install. Some pics:

[awr68]

Looks good Steve, I guess it's time to drop the fuel cell and make way for the new tank....progress is good!!

So why did you go with new tires, the Pilots appeared to be in good shape?

[Steve1968LS2]

Looks good Steve, I guess it's time to drop the fuel cell and make way for the new tank....progress is good!!

So why did you go with new tires, the Pilots appeared to be in good shape?


The tank is long gone.. what you see is a well that the tank sit inside of. A new 20 gal fuel tank is being fabbed by Ricks Hot Rod Shop..

I wanted sticky R-compound tires.. I'm a man on a mission to break the PHR testing records.. or at least try.

[Steve1968LS2]

Worked on the LS2 today.. just bolting stuff up to make sure it fits. the Powermaster starter hits the header so that will have to be fixed. Waiting for some pullies to finish being coated. The Fast intake is being smoothed and painted so the one on there is just a stand in.

The valve covers are C5R units..

http://www.lifeinwidescreen.com/siihp/LS2build.jpg

[Mikael A]

Looks great Steve, you are a great inspiration to my build and now
I have get a LS1 or 2

Mike

[jmarsa]

Steve,

I know nothing about LSx stuff, but the water and power steering pumps don't look OEM. What are they and what model are the brackets from?

--JMarsa

[Steve1968LS2]

Steve,

I know nothing about LSx stuff, but the water and power steering pumps don't look OEM. What are they and what model are the brackets from?

--JMarsa

The water pump is an electric unit from Mezeire.. the power steering pump is an 4th gen f-body unit that was reworked by Turn One. The brackets are smooted and powder painted 4th gen f-body brackets. I like using OEM brackets since they are proven, cheap and easy to replace if needed.

[mazspeed]

Hey Steve, where did you get your motor, and who did the build on it, and what if I may ask is the price to duplicate it?

[Steve1968LS2]

Hey Steve, where did you get your motor, and who did the build on it, and what if I may ask is the price to duplicate it?

GM Performance parts crate engine.. Lets see.. price to dup..

$5500 for LS2 crate engine
$900 FAST intake
$600 COMP cam and pushrods
$2200 AFR 205 heads with upgraded springs
$110 Alternator
$160 Starter
$150 PS Pump
$45 Bracktes
$500 Mezeire Elect Water Pump
$350 ATI SFI-approved balancer
$1800 Stepped 1-7/8 long tube headers

Then you just have to add in a fuel system.. Now you could have done this MUCH cheaper and got the same power. Find a used FAST intake, get the cam and have the LS2 heads worked over ($1200 instead of $2200).. Going with some Hooker 1 3/4 long tubes will only cost you 10hp but will save you a grand.

Also.. you can sell the extra parts off the LS2 for almost a grand. Over a grand if you get aftermarket heads.

To this cost I also added ARP bolts and a LOT of powerpaint.. oh, and $500 for the C5R valvecover and coil racks..

Oh, I did the motor with some help while I snapped pics. I have a great shop in SoCal if you need any LSx work done..

[awr68]

Once again he builds a very clean LSx motor, how does he do it!! I love the valve covers.

After looking at these pics I'm thinking I need to powder paint my brackets.

[mazspeed]

Thanks again Steve. That looks awesome. I will look into doing something like this.

[Steve1968LS2]

Small update.. The Lateral Dynamic parts are back from powder.. Also had the rear brakes done to match the front.

http://www.lifeinwidescreen.com/siihp/laterald.jpg

The 31-spline axles are here as well as the 3.70 geared third member :woot:

[rwhite692]

Steve, that is looking reallly nice!

I am still debating what color to coat my Qlink housing... gloss blk, semi-g black, or a dark metallic gray.

I was all set on dark met gray before seeing your pics.

Damnit.

-R

[Steve1968LS2]

I was all set on dark met gray before seeing your pics.

Damnit.

-R

So, are you saying that the dark met gray on my parts looks bad? lol

The whole underside of the car is black, I wanted some contrast. No law about looking good and going fast (two things I HOPE to do).

[Payton King]

reconstructing there! There is nothing about your car I would change...except maybe the owner.

[rwhite692]

So, are you saying that the dark met gray on my parts looks bad?.....


Lol... no, no, not at all, Steve, I just thought I finally had my mind made up, and now...

Arrgh!!

[mazspeed]

I would have went with hot pink and purple pokadots if you ask me. :D

[Sales@Dutchboys]

looks good steve.......


-Paul

[mazspeed]

I can't wait to see it finished.

[Steve1968LS2]

Closer...

http://www.lifeinwidescreen.com/siihp/penny9.jpg

[mazspeed]

Looks mean Steve, you always have to be one step ahead of me. Ill catch you soon :D

[race-rodz]

somebody needs to photochop a "hot rod" logo on that plate :rofl:

[mazspeed]

somebody needs to photochop a "hot rod" logo on that plate :rofl:

I did one better. I was bored and Steve will kill me, but...... :D

http://www.tri-phase-electric.com/penny9.jpg

[Steve1968LS2]

somebody needs to photochop a "hot rod" logo on that plate :rofl:

Just don't put a Car Craft one on there ;)

http://www.lifeinwidescreen.com/siihp/watts.jpg

[Steve1968LS2]

I bow down before the greatness of Penny.. :bow:


Thanks! It's about time you realized your place!

:rofl:

[Payton King]

It looks like you need more tire on that thing...lol

Where are you running the mufflers?

[mdprovee]

That car is just incredible. Hope mine turns out 1/4 as nice.

[mazspeed]

Thanks! It's about time you realized your place!

:rofl:
heheh
I do. :thumbsup:
I can't wait to have the cars side by side. Your car is just turning out awesome. I cannot wait to see it.

[Steve1968LS2]

heheh
I do. :thumbsup:
I can't wait to have the cars side by side. Your car is just turning out awesome. I cannot wait to see it.

They should look good side by side.. I painted my intake and watts link the same color as your stripes. Now what would be cool would be to have my old '69, Penny and the slegehammer parked in a row :)

[markss28]

Steve what paint is one your car? I that a 3 link set up? I didnt see any upper links.

[mazspeed]

They should look good side by side.. I painted my intake and watts link the same color as your stripes. Now what would be cool would be to have my old '69, Penny and the slegehammer parked in a row :)
I'm aroused right now. :D
Yeah I think that would be killer. I saw the photo. Looks just amazing.

[Mean 69]

I that a 3 link set up?

No not "A" 3-Link, it's "THE" 3-Link... ;)
Mark

[Steve1968LS2]

Steve what paint is one your car? I that a 3 link set up? I didnt see any upper links.

The car is 2002 Prowler Orange.. you can see more shots on my website. The color really comes alive in direct sunlight.

And yep.. it's THE three-link from www.lateral-dynamics.com :yes:

[JamesD]

Just don't put a Car Craft one on there ;)

http://www.lifeinwidescreen.com/siihp/watts.jpg

What is that mount for on the bottom of the housing?

[Mean 69]

It is actually dual purpose "guard" for the bottom mounted drain plug, and also serves as a convenient jacking point. We put a custom drain on the bottom of the housing so servicing doesn't require soaking your air in gear lube, there is also a large filler cap on the top that we put on custom (it's standard on all of our housings) fill cap on the top so you don't have to fuss with squirting it in the small plug hole on the side of the gear carrier.

It's the little things, in addition to the big things....
Mark

[CraigMorrison]

I wanted sticky R-compound tires.. I'm a man on a mission to break the PHR testing records.. or at least try.

You better do it before our Vette is done :rofl:

I keeeed, I keeed.....


Penny is looking AWESOME! :hail:

[Blown353]

It is actually dual purpose "guard" for the bottom mounted drain plug, and also serves as a convenient jacking point.
Mark

Damn good idea. I've dealt with quite a few Fab 9's and with the drain plug sticking out the bottom it makes it a PITA to jack up. I have a "custom" block of wood for my jack with a small hole in it so I don't jack the rear end up by the drainplug alone!

[Steve1968LS2]

You better do it before our Vette is done :rofl:

I keeeed, I keeed.....


Penny is looking AWESOME! :hail:

Bring it sucka.. :dance:



Actually I can't wait to see your vette get done, gonna be sweet!

[CraigMorrison]

Bring it sucka.. :dance:

Oh, we gonna bring it. :evil:

[71Nova]

Yea it would be cool to see, but Steve might not show up. :lol:

[Steve1968LS2]

Oh, we gonna bring it. :evil:

lol.. I might have to slip Nick (or test equipment operator) a few bucks to "adjust" your numbers a bit.. :rofl:

Actually, given what you have in that car I wouldn't feel bad to get beaten by it. However, I will try my hardest to smack you down. :lolhit:


Yea it would be cool to see, but Steve might not show up. :lol:

Well EXCUUUUUUUUUSSSSSSSEEEEEE ME! (in steve martin voice) for having to actually work.. lol -- see ya there next week.

[CraigMorrison]

Hey, we could have a Colorado/Canyon shootout too. Just saw your truck you got. I've got a 4dr Colorado......great trucks, those I-5's are torquey little SOB's.

[Steve1968LS2]

Hey, we could have a Colorado/Canyon shootout too. Just saw your truck you got. I've got a 4dr Colorado......great trucks, those I-5's are torquey little SOB's.

Yea, just started driving it and I love it.. Maybe we could race over the cones rather then though them.. lol

------------------------

Update.. worked on the engine today. The FAST intake was ground down, primed and painted (the same silver as my old '69 Camaro stripes). With the intake on (and fuel rails) I think the coil-pack location looks better. All the blackend pullies are done and also installed. All that's left is to swap oil pans.

http://www.lifeinwidescreen.com/siihp/LS2b.jpg

http://www.lifeinwidescreen.com/siihp/LS2c.jpg

[rockdogz]

Looking good... you didn't want to match the intake to the valve covers?

[Steve1968LS2]

Looking good... you didn't want to match the intake to the valve covers?

No, I like contrasts.. not into the monotone deal. The intake is the same color as I painted the Watt's link. The Valve covers are the same color as the subframe and rearend housing..

[race-rodz]

color matched to housing, color matched to subframe :lol: :rofl: :lol:


quit making parts "pretty" and get it drivable.

btw.....i reallywanna work at a magazine....sit around and loiter on the internet forums all day, then day dream about the right way to mix and match colors so it will always match your shoes or something....... let me know where to send my resume

[Steve1968LS2]

color matched to housing, color matched to subframe :lol: :rofl: :lol:

quit making parts "pretty" and get it drivable.

btw.....i reallywanna work at a magazine....sit around and loiter on the internet forums all day, then day dream about the right way to mix and match colors so it will always match your shoes or something....... let me know where to send my resume

Contrary to popular belief you can look good and go fast :)

Besides.. it takes just as much $$ and time to powder paint something in a matching color as it does a random one.

<-- waiting on new axles from Strange..

Oh, I am hard at work.. I use this program called Windows.. you may have heard of it. It lets you "multitask" (go to www.dictionary.com if that stumped you) :rofl:

[race-rodz]

ok...i guess the waiting for axles is a good time to spend detailing and colormatching,

multi-tasking........anybody want a project or 3.... i have about 13 too many....and these are just my own....forget about the paying jobs

maybe PHR needs a tube chassis shop truck, or even a TPI powered 2wd blazer... how about a bagged crew cab dually.... maybe a 4x4 project... a viper suspended cobra kit car with super rediculous huge tires front and rear...... maybe a pre runner ranger.... how about a couple hot rod quads.... 1st gen lightning..... 29 model A rat rod...... a #'s matching 66 goat... a 3dr 67 burban.... toyota rockcrawler... 40 ford pick-up.... 64 1/2 mustang.... come visit my shop and wonder why i never get anything done on my own stuff

[awr68]

waiting on new axles from Strange..

So Steve you know I love your car, so PLEASE don't take this the wrong way! I'm just wondering, since you got the new housing and axles why you didn't go a little wider and get the wheels/tires out towards the fender lip a little more? I only ask this because all the pics of Penny I see make it look like the tires might be a little more under the car than they need to be...although it is a little hard to tell since most of your pics are taken at an angle and not straight down the side of the car.

This is the main reason I sold my Pentias, when I measured for the rearend I centered the tire in the wheel house when I should have bumped the tire to the lip a good .75"...in the end it gave me a good excuse to spend a lot on new wheels!! :)

[Steve1968LS2]

So Steve you know I love your car, so PLEASE don't take this the wrong way! I'm just wondering, since you got the new housing and axles why you didn't go a little wider and get the wheels/tires out towards the fender lip a little more? I only ask this because all the pics of Penny I see make it look like the tires might be a little more under the car than they need to be...although it is a little hard to tell since most of your pics are taken at an angle and not straight down the side of the car.

This is the main reason I sold my Pentias, when I measured for the rearend I centered the tire in the wheel house when I should have bumped the tire to the lip a good .75"...in the end it gave me a good excuse to spend a lot on new wheels!! :)

The new rear is the exact same width as the old rear, so the tires will fit the same. In the pic I posted the car has no brakes and the wheels will be out about 1/4 of an inch farther. Ad in that she will be lower and it should work out perfectly and look as good as they did with the Dana60.

The rearend housing and axles were custom narrowed from what works on a firstgen Camaro due to my narrowed rear frame rails and larger than normal tubs :)

Looks goofy in the picture, so I get why you asked..

[71Nova]

Man that engine looks Great!! Good choice in colors!

David

[Damn True]

Yea, just started driving it and I love it.. Maybe we could race over the cones rather then though them.. lol

------------------------

Update.. worked on the engine today. The FAST intake was ground down, primed and painted (the same silver as my old '69 Camaro stripes). With the intake on (and fuel rails) I think the coil-pack location looks better. All the blackend pullies are done and also installed. All that's left is to swap oil pans.

http://www.lifeinwidescreen.com/siihp/LS2b.jpg


Ok, silly question. Why does your Meziere ELECTRIC water pump have a belt?

Does the bell simply act as an idler?

[Steve1968LS2]

Ok, silly question. Why does your Meziere ELECTRIC water pump have a belt?

Does the bell simply act as an idler?

Yep, It still needs to route the belt to the tensioner. Also, this would keep you from having to use a different sized belt.

[Mike Hall]

Where is your AC compressor?

Mike

[Steve1968LS2]

Where is your AC compressor?

Mike

In the same box as the heater core, wiper motor, brake booster and audio system... and that's where it's all gonna stay :)

[harshman]

In the same box as the heater core, wiper motor, brake booster and audio system... and that's where it's all gonna stay :)
:rofl: :rofl:

i feel the same way.

[awr68]

In the same box as the heater core, wiper motor, brake booster and audio system... and that's where it's all gonna stay :)

Took me a second to figure that one out...but that's just me always trying to have it all!! :)

BTW, thanks for understanding my wheel/tire question and not taking it the wrong way! Penny is coming together nicely...can't wait to see her all together!!

You wanted a quality, yet purpose built track car...well my friend, you got one!! :thumbsup:

[71Nova]

Very cool Steve

[CraigMorrison]

In the same box as the heater core, wiper motor, brake booster and audio system... and that's where it's all gonna stay :)

Wow! it sounds like Vintage Air has one hell of a setup these days!

[Steve1968LS2]

McBride whipped up a quick rendering for me.. we still need to tweek some details but I thought it was cool enough to post. Need to modify the roll cage, rearview mirror and delete the chrome drip molding. Also need to ditch the wipers and add a factory side view mirror.

Just thought I would share...

http://www.lifeinwidescreen.com/siihp/badpenny.jpg

[mazspeed]

Looks great. It will probably be done before mine.

[Payton King]

Like I don't know what it looks like together. Would still like to see it.

[Steve1968LS2]

Like I don't know what it looks like together. Would still like to see it.

Yea, besides the hood it's almost exactly the same as when I got it. Little things like the brakes and wheel offset will change. Oh, and I am adding a passengers side mirror. The car looked great so why change what was good to go?

Might add a tatoo to the front fenders.. sorta like bomber art.

Oh, the custom Ricks tank arrived today. It's sweet and best of all holds 20 gallons. Lets see.. 20 gallons and on the highway I could get up to 25mpg.. that gives me a 500 mile range :)

[Mean 69]

Lets see.. 20 gallons and on the highway I could get up to 25mpg.. that gives me a 500 mile range

Road Trip!!!! Vegas!!!!!!
M

[SN65]

McBride whipped up a quick rendering for me.. we still need to tweek some details but I thought it was cool enough to post. Need to modify the roll cage, rearview mirror and delete the chrome drip molding. Also need to ditch the wipers and add a factory side view mirror.

Just thought I would share...

http://www.lifeinwidescreen.com/siihp/badpenny.jpg
Hi Steve,

What paint system are you using. I really dig the "copper" paint. :thumbsup:

[ViperBlue68]

Its Plymouth Prowler orange if I remember correctly.

[Steve1968LS2]

Hi Steve,

What paint system are you using. I really dig the "copper" paint. :thumbsup:

It's the same color the car came with.. 2002 Prowler Orange.. it has a lot of gold in it when the sun hits it.

Here's an example:
http://www.z069.us/68/exterior/web_a3.jpg

I'm sure it's a tough color for McBride to get in a rendering.. he is going to work on getting it closer.

[Steve1968LS2]

Road Trip!!!! Vegas!!!!!!
M

Navigate? Then we could stop off at the Silver State Classic.. since we're in the area.. lol

[Steve1968LS2]

Today we installed DSE subframe connectors.. was amazed how easy they were to install and how well they mated to the aftermarket subframe even though they are designed for a factory one..

http://www.lifeinwidescreen.com/siihp/connect.jpg

[awr68]

Looks great Steve, you keep this up much longer and you will have to repaint the whole bottom of the car!! About time to fab up the exhaust!! :thumbsup:

[71Nova]

Looken sweet!! I love the jack point/drain cover

[XcYZ]

For some reason, I'm always gravitating towards those Toyo tires. :D

[Mean 69]

I posted this same response on another forum, but I want to repeat here to give Steve his "prop's."

Steve has been a terrific customer, his install wasn't a typical one in that the frame rails and significant sheetmetal work had been done to the car previously, so there's been an amount of improvising. On top of that, we had problems getting the correct axles (twice now), and a few other non-ordinary things pop up that haven't in the past with any other projects. You know, the "what the heck is that all about, oh well, not a big deal to fix, but...." He's been super patient, and it's been a great learning experience for all involved. His car just gets better, and better every time work gets done on it, it's really looking terrific and should perform really well.



Mark

[Steve1968LS2]

I posted this same response on another forum, but I want to repeat here to give Steve his "prop's."

Steve has been a terrific customer, his install wasn't a typical one in that the frame rails and significant sheetmetal work had been done to the car previously, so there's been an amount of improvising. On top of that, we had problems getting the correct axles (twice now), and a few other non-ordinary things pop up that haven't in the past with any other projects. You know, the "what the heck is that all about, oh well, not a big deal to fix, but...." He's been super patient, and it's been a great learning experience for all involved. His car just gets better, and better every time work gets done on it, it's really looking terrific and should perform really well.

Mark

Thanks Mark, I guess I've doing this long enough that I worry if no little issues pop up during any sort of work.. lol

The car is going to be killer when done. All the parts just seem to be working together so well so far as far as fitment. I never get sick of looking at pics of your 3-link and now that everything (the DSE SFCs and the 3-link bracing) is coated it looks almost factory. Once we get it done and corner scale it the car should haul ass. Sure, the paint isn't perfect and some of the gaps are less than ideal, but it's filled with what I feel are some of the best performing parts out there and it should look nice enough to take to cruise night or a car show as well as perform good enough for the track.

Next week.. LS2 time :)

[Mkelcy]

Today we installed DSE subframe connectors.. was amazed how easy they were to install and how well they mated to the aftermarket subframe even though they are designed for a factory one.

Did you weld the DSE connectors to the 21st Century sub, or make it a bolt in deal?

[Steve1968LS2]

Did you weld the DSE connectors to the 21st Century sub, or make it a bolt in deal?

Welded.. it butted up right to the subframe like it was made for it. Also, it was the exact same width. I will post up a little pic later if I can, if not it will be in the story.

I should note that you could MAKE it a bolt in deal, but it would be easy to cut it free from the subframe if I should ever need to. Welding is also what DSE reccomends.

[olds87]

Are you going to reapply paint to the sub frame connecters?

[Steve1968LS2]

Are you going to reapply paint to the sub frame connecters?

We are going to shoot the subframe connectors and the tip of the subframe (where we welded) in the same undercoating stuff as the rest of the underside of the car.

[Damn True]

We are going to shoot the subframe connectors and the tip of the subframe (where we welded) in the same undercoating stuff as the rest of the underside of the car.


What is that stuff anyway?

[Steve1968LS2]

What is that stuff anyway?

It's made by a company called FUSOR.. it's stays sorta rubbery. The best part is that it adds very little weight to the car. Maybe 2-3 pounds.

They say it holds up pretty good, guess I will be have to judge that for myself.

http://www.lord.com/Default.aspx?tabid=1204#805

[Steve1968LS2]

This is the super cool stuff though.. stronger than welding..

http://www.lord.com/Default.aspx?tabid=1150&pid=5

[Damn True]

It's made by a company called FUSOR.. it's stays sorta rubbery. The best part is that it adds very little weight to the car. Maybe 2-3 pounds.

They say it holds up pretty good, guess I will be have to judge that for myself.

http://www.lord.com/Default.aspx?tabid=1204#805

Was it on the car when you bought it? Just wondering how it might hold up near exhaust stuff.

I recently went and spoke with a local line-x dealer and he thought the line-x would melt if it were within 6" of the pipes/muffler.

[Steve1968LS2]

Was it on the car when you bought it? Just wondering how it might hold up near exhaust stuff.

I recently went and spoke with a local line-x dealer and he thought the line-x would melt if it were within 6" of the pipes/muffler.

No.. sloppy paint was just on there.. lol

Should hold up.. it's an OEM quality stuff. I guess time will tell

I thought Line-X would hold up great, I thought lots of guys ran it. I just didn't like all the weight it added.

[Damn True]

No.. sloppy paint was just on there.. lol

Should hold up.. it's an OEM quality stuff. I guess time will tell

I thought Line-X would hold up great, I thought lots of guys ran it. I just didn't like all the weight it added.

The dude says it goes on, nearly molton, at 175 degrees. He didn't think it would take much more than that w/o melting.

[hotwheels]

look's awesome........... :thumbsup:

[Payton King]

said that it would withstand 280 degrees. I am going to use it on some under hood areas.

Steve you car is looking fantastic, did you ever speak with FAST?

Give my ass a call

[Mean 69]

I am anxious to see how it holds up too, but I have really great confidence that it will do JUST fine. All of the FUSOR stuff is amazing, it isn't cheap at all, but all of it works better than anything I have seen so far. The undercoating is really nice, it stays nice and flexible, goes on really uniform and looks amazing. Unless something terribly dramatic happens to change my opinion, which I am 99.9999% certain it won't, this stuff will go on every car I build. Until they come out with something nicer. Seems really silly, but if you see it and touch it in person, you just say "wow, that stuff is cool!"

M

[Damn True]

I am anxious to see how it holds up too, but I have really great confidence that it will do JUST fine. All of the FUSOR stuff is amazing, it isn't cheap at all, but all of it works better than anything I have seen so far. The undercoating is really nice, it stays nice and flexible, goes on really uniform and looks amazing. Unless something terribly dramatic happens to change my opinion, which I am 99.9999% certain it won't, this stuff will go on every car I build. Until they come out with something nicer. Seems really silly, but if you see it and touch it in person, you just say "wow, that stuff is cool!"

M

What is the method of application?

Spray?
Can it be brushed or rolled on?

[Steve1968LS2]

What is the method of application?

Spray?
Can it be brushed or rolled on?

Spray.. has a special gun I think. I will snap a picuter and ask tomorrow morning when I'm there :)

[Mike_M]

I'm glad everyone seems to think this is good stuff, I'm anxious to hear how it holds up on Penny as well. I've ordered the exact same stuff to do the underside of my camaro and hopefully some sound deadening inside (might use Fusor 804 for that). I figured if it's good enough for Penny, it's gotta be MORE than good enough for my heap! It does need a special gun, Fusor part no. 312: http://www.lord.com/Default.aspx?tabid=1207#312

I ordered the gun from this place: http://www.crestnetsales.com/sealers.htm
At $128.62 it's WAY cheaper than I could find it locally - I was quoted $275 for the gun here. Hopefully that helps, and I hope I'm not hijacking your thread, Steve! I don't post much, but I'm really enjoying following the progress on Penny, with more than a little envy! :drool:

[Steve1968LS2]

I'm glad everyone seems to think this is good stuff, I'm anxious to hear how it holds up on Penny as well. I've ordered the exact same stuff to do the underside of my camaro and hopefully some sound deadening inside (might use Fusor 804 for that). I figured if it's good enough for Penny, it's gotta be MORE than good enough for my heap! It does need a special gun, Fusor part no. 312: http://www.lord.com/Default.aspx?tabid=1207#312

I ordered the gun from this place: http://www.crestnetsales.com/sealers.htm
At $128.62 it's WAY cheaper than I could find it locally - I was quoted $275 for the gun here. Hopefully that helps, and I hope I'm not hijacking your thread, Steve! I don't post much, but I'm really enjoying following the progress on Penny, with more than a little envy! :drool:

no problem.. these threads are supposed to be about passing along information that may be helpful and not just "hey, look at me!" type deals.

So far I like the Fusor undercoat. I will be curious how it holds up and and how it cleans up. It certainly looks nice and the best part is that it only added a few pounds to the car.

We used their structual foam on some voids in the firewall. That suff would be cool to fill all the A-pillars and other voids since it would stiffen the area and deaden sound.

Thanks for the comments on Penny.. she's getting there.

[mazspeed]

We put the line-x under my car and it seems to help with vibration and with sound deadening.

[SN65]

SNIP...

We used their structual foam on some voids in the firewall. That suff would be cool to fill all the A-pillars and other voids since it would stiffen the area and deaden sound.

SNIP...
Hi Steve,

Yes the foam will help in the Stiffness of the "A" pillars, but your main concern should be in rotational stability. If at all possible I suggest that you "glue" in the front windshield and disregard the rubber boot.

The glued in windshield will add quite a bit to the overall stability of your unibody.

Just a suggestion.

[Steve1968LS2]

Hi Steve,

Yes the foam will help in the Stiffness of the "A" pillars, but your main concern should be in rotational stability. If at all possible I suggest that you "glue" in the front windshield and disregard the rubber boot.

The glued in windshield will add quite a bit to the overall stability of your unibody.

Just a suggestion.

Cool idea but I hate the idea of pulling the basically new windshield.. also, how hard is it to remove it at a later date? (for repair)

[race-rodz]

hard to pull it without breaking..... yes-kinda. to better explain, most glass shops can successfully cut out a glued in window, but they will tell you right up front that it will probably break.

almost(if not ALL) new cars have glued in glass, usually the reason for removing it would be if it needed replaced.... and then it doesnt matter if its broke.

in your car with the full cage.... i dont see where the minor amount of extra stiffness from the glued in glass would "help", i would think that tieing the A-pillars to the front down bars(look at a pic of the a-pillar in a nascar) would do way more than glueing in the glass.

[Payton King]

Steve,

I would be shocked if you windshield is not glued in. Most glass shops will not put glass in the way they use to...buytle strips. They have a tendency to come out during a crash.

My glass was recently put in and they glued it. Better sealing with no wind noise as well.

[Leadfoot1]

Breaking a windshield while removing???

That has never happened to me!

I had a friend tell me how to remove them a long time ago and i used his method ever since and never even scratched one.

Maybe you all know about it but i felt it could help if you don't.

The method involves 2 person. One in the car the other outside. You use a Piano cord and insert it thru the glue between the windshield and the frame (after removing all moldings and cowl grill if you don't want to take chance of scratchint it) a thin screwdriver will help making the start up hole.

Then, simply take your time with your buddy and "slice" the glue all the way around in a 'sawing like' motion from the in side out. It'll come right out and all that'll be left to do is cleaning. The piano cord are easily available and are metal so the cut the glue as it was butter and don't give up.

wear some gloves as it becomes hot at some point and the possibility of cutting yourself is there too.

removing a windshield is not something we look forward too but this method is fool proof and you will never fear windshields again!

Hope it helps,

Lead.

[SN65]

hard to pull it without breaking..... yes-kinda. to better explain, most glass shops can successfully cut out a glued in window, but they will tell you right up front that it will probably break.

almost(if not ALL) new cars have glued in glass, usually the reason for removing it would be if it needed replaced.... and then it doesnt matter if its broke.

in your car with the full cage.... i dont see where the minor amount of extra stiffness from the glued in glass would "help", i would think that tieing the A-pillars to the front down bars(look at a pic of the a-pillar in a nascar) would do way more than glueing in the glass.
We pull glass all the time at the shop here and we rarely break one. Glass is kind of expensive and the insurance companies kind of frown if you break them all the time. :-)

Even if you have a role cage installed, the windshield (and, to a lesser degree, the rear glass) opening is still a large rectangle. Glueing in the glass has the same effect as installing a cross brace in the middle of the opening. If you were going to install a full NASCAR style cage, I would not wory about the windshield, but most of us want to have a "little" space to move around in the cabin and also have "some" room for a passenger. A NASCAR cage does not allow for either.

The windshield glass is a major structural component on all late model cars. Especially when you consider the size of late modle windshields.

[Steve1968LS2]

Tomorrow we bolt in the LS2 and T56 and start the process of getting her running. Should take 4-5 days for all the systems then back to BOS to get the front sheetmetal re-hung.

Yesterday we finished up the LD 3-link and the brakes.. the results:

http://www.lifeinwidescreen.com/siihp/rear1.jpg

[fatlife]

looks great, were you an interior decorator in a previous life time?? :lol: I really like the tread pattern on those tires also, are those the toyos or nittos? Also have you figured out what you are going to do about the exhaust yet?

[Steve1968LS2]

looks great, were you an interior decorator in a previous life time?? :lol: I really like the tread pattern on those tires also, are those the toyos or nittos? Also have you figured out what you are going to do about the exhaust yet?

Maybe.. my house, when I was single, was pretty well decorated.. chicks dug it :)

Those are Toyo R-Compounds.. they had sizes Nitto didn't in the NT01

Yes, No.. might run the old exhaust and dump it before the axle. However, there's plenty of room to run it over the axle, but it looks so nice and clean I don't want to clutter it up. I am going to stick with the Spintechs and the oval tubing though.

[Damn True]

Maybe.. my house when I was single was pretty well decorated.. chick dug it :)

Those are Toyo R-Compounds.. they had sizes Nitto didn't in the NT01

Yes, No.. might run the old exhaust and dump it before the axle. However, there's plenty of room to run it over the axle, but it looks so nice and clean I don't want to clutter it up. I am going to stick with the Spintechs and the oval tubing though.

There is precious little available in 17" in widths over 275 with any kind of good compound for track use.

Honestly Steve, how many miles do you see from tires with UTQG ratings of 200 and below?

[fatlife]

I had an older porshe with the RA1's and got about 12,000 miles for a set, but it didn't have a ton of torque to beat on the rear tires

[Steve1968LS2]

There is precious little available in 17" in widths over 275 with any kind of good compound for track use.

Honestly Steve, how many miles do you see from tires with UTQG ratings of 200 and below?

I would think these tires will last 10-12k miles.. if I am very hard on them all time then less. I've heard the Toyo's last better than many. When they were down enough they will be race slicks.. lol

I might put 5000 - 10000 miles on this car a year.. so a set every year or two isn't that bad. This isn't a daily driver and I like the way they grip on other cars Ive driven. Besides, it's a pain to own a track set and a street set of wheels and tires.. :)

[Damn True]

I would think these tires will last 10-12k miles.. if I am very hard on them all time then less. I've heard the Toyo's last better than many. When they were down enough they will be race slicks.. lol

I might put 5000 - 10000 miles on this car a year.. so a set every year or two isn't that bad. This isn't a daily driver and I like the way they grip on other cars Ive driven. Besides, it's a pain to own a track set and a street set of wheels and tires.. :)

Does the mfr advise shaving them for dry use?

In the "care and feeding" section of many "R" compound tires on tirerack.com there are statements to the effect that running "R's" at 6/32 can cause asymetric, localized wear.

Insert "shaving" :unibrow: joke here ---> [_______________] because I know SOMEONE is thinking about it.

[fatlife]

Driven the porsche in the rain, it got squirelly at 7500 rpm at 70 through a big puddle but that was about it, actually worked good, although it was nerve wrecking

[James OLC]

Looks great Steve.

[BThibodeaux]

Tomorrow we bolt in the LS2 and T56 and start the process of getting her running. Should take 4-5 days for all the systems then back to BOS to get the front sheetmetal re-hung.

Yesterday we finished up the LD 3-link and the brakes.. the results:

http://www.lifeinwidescreen.com/siihp/rear1.jpg

Steve,
I am a three link dummy, so please forgive me. Why so much coil adjustment on the left vs. right. A function of the left Watts link being on top?

Beautiful setup! Way above scrub line for all the worriers out there.

Thanks,
BT

[Matt@Lateral Dynamics]

Look alittle closer. :) I think you're looking at the passenger/outboard Watt's link bolt, not the shock mount bolt.

Steve,
I am a three link dummy, so please forgive me. Why so much coil adjustment on the left vs. right. A function of the left Watts link being on top?

Beautiful setup! Way above scrub line for all the worriers out there.

Thanks,
BT

[D Rock]

Look alittle closer. :) I think you're looking at the passenger/outboard Watt's link bolt, not the shock mount bolt.

I was looking at the same thing thinking WTF. haha, the underside looks beautiful. :hail: :hail:

[race-rodz]

Does the mfr advise shaving them for dry use?


the directions say: right foot to the floor, left foot removed from clutch pedal quickly, shift accordingly while steering in tight circles alternating left to right. rotate and repeat, check progress often. post video for all the cool people to see :unibrow:

[zbugger]

...post video for all the cool people to see :unibrow:
Damn.... I guess you can't watch it then. :pushbutto

[mdprovee]

That is a thing of beauty.

Gunna be, ok, already is a great car.

Where does the line for the rides begin? I'll pay.

[olds87]

Did you drop the engine and trans in yet?

[Steve1968LS2]

Did you drop the engine and trans in yet?

Tomorrow maybe.. found out I had the wrong T56.. ack!

[olds87]

What! How did that happened

[syborg tt]

Man i love this project

?? can you tell me where you got the grommet for the steering column ?

http://www.lifeinwidescreen.com/siihp/penny2.jpg

[Steve1968LS2]

Man i love this project

?? can you tell me where you got the grommet for the steering column ?

Actually it's a duplicate of the grommet I use for my main harness. I get them from John at Speartech (the harness guy). It ended up working great for the nascar style column I'm running.

[Steve1968LS2]

What! How did that happened

Mis-communication on my part I'm sure. It can be used with an LS2 but it's a PITA compared with just using a f-bod T56. Also, with the f-bod T56 you can run all their clutches and easy to get parts. Just a slight delay.

I can confirm that you HAVE to run the f-body LS1 oil pan with the 21st Century frame since the engine sits so low (close to the rack).

[JamesD]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but don't you have a poly fuel cell in a sheet metal box? Ever consider moving to a real fuel cell like Fuel Safe, ATL, etc.(flexible bladder in steel box). Maybe install it in a 3/4" steel tube frame.

[Steve1968LS2]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but don't you have a poly fuel cell in a sheet metal box? Ever consider moving to a real fuel cell like Fuel Safe, ATL, etc.(flexible bladder in steel box). Maybe install it in a 3/4" steel tube frame.

It had a Jegs poly cell. now it has a baffled 20 gallon stainless tank by Ricks. The box it sits in is quite secure and is held in place by square tube bracing.

I like the idea of the Fuel Safe bladder but this fit in the hole nice and should serve me well.

[fatlife]

It had a Jegs poly cell. now it has a baffled 20 gallon stainless tank by Ricks. The box it sits in is quite secure and is held in place by square tube bracing.

I like the idea of the Fuel Safe bladder but this fit in the hole nice and should serve me well.
yeah, whey spend $2000 if you don't have to, most people who use fuel safe cells are doing it to meet a requirement in a racing class, they are nice but not required for most cars. Unless you just want people to see that big red tank with the huge white letters hanging under your car, gives you that racer look. They are the ultimate in safety, however how many cars/musclecars are running out there without one.

[Damn True]

yeah, whey spend $2000 if you don't have to, most people who use fuel safe cells are doing it to meet a requirement in a racing class, they are nice but not required for most cars. Unless you just want people to see that big red tank with the huge white letters hanging under your car, gives you that racer look. They are the ultimate in safety, however how many cars/musclecars are running out there without one.

I plan to run either a Fuel Safe or ATL cell in mine. Too much can go wrong on a road course IMO to not have a baffled, puncture resistant cell mounted outside the car.

[fatlife]

I plan to run either a Fuel Safe or ATL cell in mine. Too much can go wrong on a road course IMO to not have a baffled, puncture resistant cell mounted outside the car.
I suppose, whatever floats your boat, definetly couldn't say its a bad idea :thumbsup:


EDIT: man i just added another page to steves 21 odd pages or so :rolleyes: :captain:

[Steve1968LS2]

EDIT: man i just added another page to steves 21 odd pages or so :rolleyes: :captain:

Hey, it's better than starting a new thread one every new "car thing".. :)

[Mean 69]

Hey, it's better than starting a new thread one every new "car thing"..

Without question!!!!! Man, I guess I might be a bit over-sensitive, but there is a good amount of that goin' on.

True: I agree, the fuel cell for safety reasons is a really good idea, but as is the case with "everything," it's not free. The fumes that leech out from my Fuel Safe unit on the 69 fill the garage, this is typical for these types of cells. I really hate to say it, but the track car stuff, though a really good idea, is a PITA on the street and really takes away from the fun after a while. Try getting into the race seats (you remember the ones, nice and "tight...") with a Starbucks (yes, I am from California, and yes, I spend $4 per day on a foofy coffee, and that ain't gonna change). As good, get your 40 year old butt out of it, race harness included, in a tight parking lot.

It's tough to make a true dual purpose car, safety (i.e. race car safety) really kills the creature comforts. I spend more time, alas, on the street these days than I do the track. Moral of the story? The 68 GTX-treme is going to get full on cruising comforts, even though it will be fully track capable and will take on ALL comers at estimated 3800 lbs. The 70 Camaro will be in between, but more towards the serious street and occaisional track trim (faster and stickier than the current 69 config). The 69 will transform more into a full on track car, full cage, dedicated fire system, etc.

Okay, I'm done. For now.
M

[Damn True]

I hear ya but like you my Camaro will be for fun and not to be depended on for transportation so I'm willing to put up with some of the niggles of having racing seats and a cage.

I am interested in a solution to the gas S'tank. With the collected knowledge base here and over at PT.com we ought to be able to solve that issue. If there isn't already a solution out there.

[fatlife]

Mark your rights. What's funny though and even though its hard to explain to someone, you really start caring less about creature comforts and eye appeal etc when you get more and more into tracktime or racing. The speed itch will take over! Its cool to have race parts on a street car, but be honest with yourself about what you really intend to do with it. In most cases, even though people don't want to believe it, is that its a better idea to just build a race/track dedicated car. But then they see how expensive it is.

So for the most part something like a fuel safe, would look racey and be the safest out there and have that cool factor but really if you want to drive the car around and not be on the throttle 100% of the time I think something more streetable would be more enjoyable. You know I really liked that boss mustang that was in this months hot rod. From the begining the guy realized that it was better to just build a track car. Thatthing was killer and is actually driven! I like the street cars to(i have one) but if money permitted to have 2 cars like that are where its really at for me. Steves car is killer too, its stripped down, but not too much, still will make a nice street car. I bet that 3-link has a decent ride, not to harsh. There is no bind so with the right dampning on the shocks and the right spring/sway bar combo I would expect to ride good, and same with the front. Then add in a injected sharp LS2 and some supportive yet usable seats and that thing would be a blast to drive and not be out of hand either

[Matt@Lateral Dynamics]

I am interested in a solution to the gas S'tank. With the collected knowledge base here and over at PT.com we ought to be able to solve that issue. If there isn't already a solution out there. Race gas.

[Damn True]

Yeah, that is a little more pleasant aroma.

[Matt@Lateral Dynamics]

In all seriousness, the only way I know of is to run your vent line through a charcol canister, but have no personal experience with that.

I've been around lots of race cars and street rods stored in enclosed trailers and garages and I've never even noticed a gas smell. Maybe I just expect it and my brain ignores it.

You guys do realise that you own hot rods, right? They're supposed to be stinky and loud. :)

[Damn True]

I'll be able to get the wife to deal with a $10k engine (if I don't have a heart attack when I drop the visa for the thing)

I'll be able to get the wife to deal with some of the following.....

.....with the loud exhaust
........with the racing seats
...........with climbing in over a cage
..............with no AC

etc

But if she walks out into the garage, smells gas she will be certain the whole dang house is mere seconds from a horrific fireball.

[Matt@Lateral Dynamics]

http://www.sepmar-firex.com.au/images/fire-extinguisher.jpg :D

Seriously, I'd look into the charcoal canister. Or, what about making your fuel cell vent terminate at a bulkhead AN adapter, and when the car's in the garage, hook up a line that goes from that bulkhead out the garage wall or roof? Just don't forget to unhook it before leaving!

[Steve1968LS2]

In all seriousness, the only way I know of is to run your vent line through a charcol canister, but have no personal experience with that.

I've been around lots of race cars and street rods stored in enclosed trailers and garages and I've never even noticed a gas smell. Maybe I just expect it and my brain ignores it.

You guys do realise that you own hot rods, right? They're supposed to be stinky and loud. :)

Could you take an Aeromotive fuel filter, empty out the element, plug the ends with mesh then fill it with activated charcol? This way it would be easy to plumb your vent line through it... would it work?

I havent had much luck finding charcol canisters except at the aquarium store. I have some extra aeromotive filters.. thoughts?

[Mean 69]

As I was told by both the folks at Fuel Safe, and ATL (both are one company now as I understand it), the issue with fumes isn't the venting (at least not alone), but the bladder. It will allow vapor release, and there ain't squat you can do about it. In fact, the guy I talked to actually talked me into a lesser bladder (I have the cross linked poly unit) from the fabric type I had been eyeing, he said there'd be less vapor release, it'd stand up better to the crap additives that the fuel companies are forced to put into pump gas (remember WAY back when that gas used to smell good?), and for a part time track car I'd be happier.

And yes, the obvious solution is race gas, Matt is so smart. Or something like that. Overall, it's not that bad, so don't stress about it too much.

M

[Steve1968LS2]

As I was told by both the folks at Fuel Safe, and ATL (both are one company now as I understand it), the issue with fumes isn't the venting (at least not alone), but the bladder. It will allow vapor release, and there ain't squat you can do about it. In fact, the guy I talked to actually talked me into a lesser bladder (I have the cross linked poly unit) from the fabric type I had been eyeing, he said there'd be less vapor release, it'd stand up better to the crap additives that the fuel companies are forced to put into pump gas (remember WAY back when that gas used to smell good?), and for a part time track car I'd be happier.

And yes, the obvious solution is race gas, Matt is so smart. Or something like that. Overall, it's not that bad, so don't stress about it too much.

M

Yea, but would my idea work out right for regular street tank vent system. Was thinking it might be a fix. I just bought a vent bung today that has a check valve in it (in case my car ends up "upside down". Now I want to find something to shut off the fule pump if it senses a certain number of g's (or whatever). I know it's out there, just can't remember.

http://www.lifeinwidescreen.com/siihp/engine2.jpg

Could've put it in on Friday but I need the morning install so I have the "right light".. need an opening shot and maybe a cover shot. It's much faster when you don't have to shoot and document the whole process.

[fatlife]

So to say this whole magazine job thing is working out for you would be an understatement then? :D

[Steve1968LS2]

So to say this whole magazine job thing is working out for you would be an understatement then? :D

Well, if you mean because I get to do what I love and get paid yes! :yes:

The cheap/free parts are nice too but to be honest I love doing Theory storys more than install stories.

It's a fun job but a LOT of work too. and every month is a new set of deadlines.

The best part is that I can actually call up the owners of large companies and pick thier brains for info. That's a BIG bonus.

[race-rodz]

Yea, but would my idea work out right for regular street tank vent system. Was thinking it might be a fix. I just bought a vent bung today that has a check valve in it (in case my car ends up "upside down". Now I want to find something to shut off the fule pump if it senses a certain number of g's (or whatever). I know it's out there, just can't remember.
.


how about a tip over sensor off a bike, it will only cut power if it is layed almost 90* to the side or up-side-down.... most of them self reset, so you can tip it back over and finish your trackday :thumbsup:

[rockdogz]

Could you take an Aeromotive fuel filter, empty out the element, plug the ends with mesh then fill it with activated charcol? This way it would be easy to plumb your vent line through it... would it work?

I havent had much luck finding charcol canisters except at the aquarium store. I have some extra aeromotive filters.. thoughts?
I built my own charcoal canister, but was worried that I was restricting the rate at which air flows back into the tank too much. Funny thing is, when I removed my homemade canister, the 2' or so of fuel line that loops up and around seems to have done the trick - I hardly smell gas at all anymore. Maybe the fumes can't travel down the looped line easily?

[Steve1968LS2]

how about a tip over sensor off a bike, it will only cut power if it is layed almost 90* to the side or up-side-down.... most of them self reset, so you can tip it back over and finish your trackday :thumbsup:

Where would you find one? Don't be tossing stuff like this out here without a link.. what were you thinking??!?!

:rofl:

[fatlife]

all the sportsbikes use them, if you want I can take a picture of one for you, and get you a part number. But it won't feel G's only if you tip it all the way over, so it would only work if the car flipped. They have about 3 wires coming out of them(not sure what they do) and mount easily with 2 bolts.

[Steve1968LS2]

all the sportsbikes use them, if you want I can take a picture of one for you, and get you a part number. But it won't feel G's only if you tip it all the way over, so it would only work if the car flipped. They have about 3 wires coming out of them(not sure what they do) and mount easily with 2 bolts.

Well it's a start.. and if Im 90 over then I want it off. I thought I saw something (OEM??) that tripped if it sensed a certain G-force limit.

Kinda amazed nobody makes something like this.. seems like a no-brainer safety idea.

[James OLC]

Well it's a start.. and if Im 90 over then I want it off. I thought I saw something (OEM??) that tripped if it sensed a certain G-force limit.

Kinda amazed nobody makes something like this.. seems like a no-brainer safety idea.


I think that you are looking for something like a factory Ford Inertia switch. They work in an accident situation by popping up mechanically from the force of the impact and interrupting the fuel pump circuit. Just push the switch down to reset. I know on the F150's the switch was located behing the passenger kick panel. A Ford dealer should be able to help you out (here is a link that explains the switch: Inertia Swich (http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/InertiaSwitch.html)) - and a picture ...

[fatlife]

I have my fuel pump wired through my oil pressure switch, I don't think a motor would run upside down with a carburetor. Its also nice because when I turn the ignition switch on, the fuel pump isn't running. BTW the ford solenoid looks like a better idea

[zbugger]

I was going to mention the Ford inertia switch. You can find them in most late 80's-mid 90's Ford cars in the trunk, usually over the passenger side wheel well. Some might be on the drivers side. It's also usually under a panel. It's not out in the open.

[Steve1968LS2]

The engine is in.. well, almost :)

Have to re-engineer a line on the rack that is hitting my low-slung alternator. Also, and this is no fault of 21st Century, I am modifying one tube on the header to clear my steering. Their header is designed around a normal Camaro steering column and not the shot racing one I am using. Other than that the engine an trans is in and in a few days (have to go install an interior into g/28) we will finish up the install and fire it up. Only have to install the loom and run the fuel lines... easy.. lol

http://www.lifeinwidescreen.com/siihp/install.jpg

[tndude]

Steve, first, as always, your craftsmanship looks sweet. :thumbsup:

Second, you win...at 12,200 views for this thread, that has to be the most views a single thread has ever had. Wow! :eek:

[fatlife]

yeah but I bet at least %60 of them are his! :rofl:

[syborg tt]

Steve, first, as always, your craftsmanship looks sweet. :thumbsup:

Second, you win...at 12,200 views for this thread, that has to be the most views a single thread has ever had. Wow! :eek:


i bet i've viewed this thread a few hundred time

[Steve68]

Jesus F'n christ aint you done yet, so you can drive it, this thread bores me to tears, I'm sick of seeing it!!

[Steve1968LS2]

yeah but I bet at least %60 of them are his! :rofl:

Liar!!! no more than 58%... lol

Hey, it beats having 100 threads.. one stop shopping this way. :)

My car is on hold till Friday since I am putting an interior into g/28..

[fatlife]

:thumbsup:

[ProTouring442]

I think that you are looking for something like a factory Ford Inertia switch. They work in an accident situation by popping up mechanically from the force of the impact and interrupting the fuel pump circuit. Just push the switch down to reset. I know on the F150's the switch was located behing the passenger kick panel. A Ford dealer should be able to help you out (here is a link that explains the switch: Inertia Swich (http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/InertiaSwitch.html)) - and a picture ...


Ron Francis sells these with a harness if I recall... Maybe AAW does too?

Shiny Side Up!
Bill
'72 442 "Inamorata"

[Payton King]

Can you not run a couple of u-joints and route your steering shaft around the header instead of moving the tube and recoating?

Your car is looking good! Looks like you are going to drive yours first

[Steve1968LS2]

Can you not run a couple of u-joints and route your steering shaft around the header instead of moving the tube and recoating?

Your car is looking good! Looks like you are going to drive yours first

Nope, adding a u-joint won't work. I would need to add a heim pivot joint that would have to be attached (welded) to the frame.. no no on that.

The modified headers fit perfectly and the steering hooks right up. Next week we just have to wire it, fuel it, water it and fire it up. :)

[68protouring454]

looks awesome steve, you got a semi yet or what? :thumbsup:

[Steve68]

Steve, can you tell me where you got the powersteering pully, of course mines cracked, ans whats it made of, Thanks

[Payton King]

The rack has a 9/16 and 5/8 SAE thread. Are you going to build your own lines or are you going to get the kit from DSE?

I am working on that portion of my project this week so I will let you know what I am dong...just curious on what you are.

Also, what size injectors and brand did you go with?

[Steve1968LS2]

Steve, can you tell me where you got the powersteering pully, of course mines cracked, ans whats it made of, Thanks

I got it from a place called TURN ONE.. I think he is in Michigan and Jeff builds race car parts and steering systems. Nice guy. I don't have his number with me, but I will look for it. Cost was $50 and it comes coated in a grey hardcoat. Oh, this one is for f-body PS pumps.

[Steve1968LS2]

The rack has a 9/16 and 5/8 SAE thread. Are you going to build your own lines or are you going to get the kit from DSE?

I am working on that portion of my project this week so I will let you know what I am dong...just curious on what you are.

Also, what size injectors and brand did you go with?

Making my own. I used a factory hard line for the high pressue out so the braided part will be pretty short;

Ended up using FAST 36lb injectors. The shorter LS2 32lb'ers were just a PITA to run with the FAST intake and rails (they are working on an adaptor kit which should make it easier)

[Steve68]

Thanks on the PS pully info, I have a F body LS1 in my car, I think my pump fell on the floor and cracked the pully, that one looks killer!


Whens the front end sheet metal install??

[Steve1968LS2]

Long day today.. There's a price to pay for trying to have what you want. lol

I wanted to run the f-body LS1 pulley system since I feel it's very compact and has a nice clean look. Instead of the alternator being mounted way high it's down low and tight to the block. I just like how it looks. On my '69 with a regular gear box it was no problem. However with the power rack/pinion it hit the upper hard line. The problem was that he line make a big looping bend and that bend was hitting the back of the alternator.

I cut the tubing so I could use the section with the flare and then drilled and tapped the nut and added a ninety fitting that had a #6 AN on one end. I then had a #6 male welded to the other end of the tubing. This allowed me to get rid of the loop and use a short braided line to give the alternator the needed clearance. As luck would have it the post on the back of the alt perfectly lined up with and hit the new fitting (couldn't have engineered to hit more exactly.. lol). I took apart the alternator and we made a shorter stud that now gives me a wopping 1/4-inch clearance.

Everything fits very tightly, which looks sweet but is a PITA to get right.

Tomorrow the Camaro goes on the rack so we can plumb the fuel lines, secure the tranny, install the driveshaft and we will also run the wiring. The car needs to be done next Tuesday so it can go back to the body shop for the front end re-installation.

Here's the modified steering line: