Yet another 2nd Gen Camaro - Project/update

[waynieZ]

Nice work Steve .

[FETorino]

Very cool Steve.:hail: Maybe I will get a chance to see it in person next week.

[gerno]

Keep at it, Steve. You're doing good work. Besides, I want to see what this thing looks like sitting on the ground when done :D

So do I. Overall it will like pretty much the same on the outside but at least the engine bay should look nicer...oh yea, and it should handle a bit better too.

Thanks for posting the update, looks like you've been busy. I can't wait to see it back on the ground again as well.

Trying to find the time. There's never enough.

Dang Steve, brave. Great stuff. What's next? How close u too final assembly?

Next is to mock it up in the car, cut the floors for clearance make new engine mounts to tuck the pan/exhaust better, rework the rear suspension, build a cage, remake clutch/brake pedals, smooth firewall and clean up the wiring....just a few things left...

Nice work Steve .

Thanks

Very cool Steve.:hail: Maybe I will get a chance to see it in person next week.

I guess that depends how many beers are consumed....





Made more progress this weekend. Overall pretty happy but did find a few new issues to think about.

Pulled the frame off the table and tested engine fitment. I wanted to raise the engine slightly to and header and oil plan clearance to make sure nothing would hit anymore.

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Found 1 problem - The passenger side header tube is too close to the rear UCA bolt.

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I could move the engine back but will need to shorten the driveshaft. and may have interference issues elsewhere, need to look into it more. Good news is I'm already planning to redo the firewall and tunnel so this is a possible solution

I was hoping it would be easier to move it forward, unfortunately this caused an issue with clearance to the centerline. This is will not work

Another possible solution is to take 1/2" off the headers at the head flange. Overall should be fairly easy except I've never welded stainless and am concerned if my skills are ready for such a challenge.

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Final option is to sell my current headers and get a set of Ultimate Headers. Obvious problem here is $$$:G-Dub:



Rather than make an impulse decision I wanted to go ahead and get the frame bolted up in the car to see if there were any other issues. Good news here is that other it bolted up. Only minor issue was the rear rails were a bit more spread than they were originally. I used a bar clamp to pull them back together and all seems well based on original alignment holes but I need to measure it for square.

I still need to recess the frame in the floors since I'm removing the body mounts to raise the frame 1/2" as directed by Sutton. Next week I hope to clean the pans with a wire wheel so I can mark and cut the floor sections contacting the frame

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[gerno]

Made it a bit further along in the last we weeks...assuming cutting a car to pieces is progress.

I purchased a set of Ultimate headers long tubes to better clear the UCA mounts. The new headers stick out ~2" vs the old SWs sticking out ~4" from he heads. I thought about modifying the SW headers but figure with the time needed it was smarter to buy new and sell off the old ones.

I was a bit disappointed the collector flanges were not welded on the headers as I was told they would be. I can do it myself but it is a bit frustrating to spend a good sum of money and not get what you were committed. Oh well, I'll live...moving on

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With the new headers in place the next step was to set the engine placement. I decided since I was modifying everything anyways I might as well try to get the engine as far back as possible and make sure the oil pan, headers and bell housing are all tucked in the frame. Unfortunately there is where I started to get a bit happy with cutting. Now I just hope I can put it all back together.

Headers had to be tucked deeper in the floor than expected. I decided in an effort to move the header further away from my feet and to better balance the weight of the car I would offset the engine 3/4" to the passenger side. Not a huge change but I figure it doesn't hurt to try

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[gerno]

I knew I already needed to redo the trans tunnel from better clearance so the tunnel got cut out .. You can also see the areas where I cut the floor to clearance the subframe

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Then because I decided to move the engine back and tuck the headers it got cut a bit more. You can see where the floors had to be cut for the headers.

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Then because the Torque Arm mount and trans mount are now very close to I decide it would be nice to have then mounted with a combined mount. Since I also wanted more ground clearance and everything tucked I decided to follow the lead of other 2nd gen builds on the forums. The floor if now being prepped for a full length x-member to be added. This will also be tied into the subframe itself and rocker panels for better rigidity. I'll make a dropout center section of some sort of the mount for easy maintenance on the car too

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[gerno]

Forgot 1 more thing. I also didn't like the accessory drive I had and it didn't fit with the shock hoops. I made a prototype of a new setup with the PS lower on the driver side and the alternator on the bottom passenger side. I also tried to focus on maximum belt wrap. This is just form MDF but I'll most likely make it from 3/8" aluminum and have it laser cut.


All the parts except the alternator are factory from a 2010 Camaro including the 2 additional idler pulleys. The alternator is a lower amp alternator from a chevy truck because it has a smaller housing. I figure this will be nice in case anything goes out. I can easily get replacement parts locally.

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[Build-It-Break-it]

Wow looking great! It's funny how things snowball. Once you start doing one thing it affects the next and adds to time,money,thought,planning etc. Great progress tho.

[gerno]

Yea, I wasn't initially planning all of these changes but I figure if i'm going to do it I want to make sure I do it the best I can. I'm learning a lot...a lot more than I thought I was going to.

[preston]

assuming cutting a car to pieces is progress.

Oh indeed it is. I've been there !

[cpd004]

Love this build! I'm looking forward to seeing how you approach the cross member mods. Especially how you are going to tie it into the rockers.

[gerno]

Oh indeed it is. I've been there !

Not sure this is a good or bad response...

When will there be a new update on your build?? I love that car.

Love this build! I'm looking forward to seeing how you approach the cross member mods. Especially how you are going to tie it into the rockers.

Thank for the kind words. I wasnt really planning anything super crazy for the cross member. When I say tie into the rockers I was thinking to simply contour the end of the x-member to the shape of the rocker and weld them together. That may change when I'm actually doing the work but for now that's the plan



This also make me think of something else I need to decide. It's a bit of a big thing because it entails both safety and strength/rigidity.

I added the shock hoops specific for the coil over mount and the plan was to add another set of bay bars and tie the 2 together. Once they were in they ended up a bit taller than I expected. Now I'm not sure how necessary the second set of bars really is.

Part of me if thinking to just tie into the shock hoops and then add a brace across the engine. The hoops are 1 3/4 DOM so I don't think there is a material strength issue. I just wonder if having a joint is a terrible idea.

Here's a rough sketch of what I was thinking. Hopefully the blue lines I added are visible. I'll probably add this to Sutton's safety thread as well

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[Flash68]

Looking good Steve. You really have a lot going on. Looks well thought out best I can tell. Bummed we didn't get to see it last month.

[preston]

You are wondering if the 2nd set of triangulated bars going to the firewall center area are necessary ? In either case you would still cross brace the shock mounts and bring in the "down bars" from the cage to the top of the shock towers ? I assume if you did bring the triangulated bars to the center area of the firewall that they are penetrating the firewall and joining to a dash bar ?

Just arm chairing it I would say those could be overkill at least if you are thinking more 1.75" DOM, it depends a little on how much top view angle you are getting from the cage to the shock towers. I guess I would be inclined to bring in the outside cage bars and cross engine brace, and then maybe go with something a little lighter and removeable if you still wanted to brace to the center of the firewall. You could build cage reinforcement on the cockpit side of the firewall, and provide a bolt in interface, and then use lighter weight removeable tubing that bolts on to the shock towers and the firewall reinforcement plate that I just mentioned.

[gerno]

Looking good Steve. You really have a lot going on. Looks well thought out best I can tell. Bummed we didn't get to see it last month.

I guess that means you need to find another car to buy and drive back to Cali soon or you can finish BMF and drive it back..




You are wondering if the 2nd set of triangulated bars going to the firewall center area are necessary ?

Not wondering so much about the second set of triangulated bars. More concerned if its better to have a full 1 piece bar coming off the main structure of the cage and coming to the front of the frame or if I can weld a short section from the front hoop of the cage.

I'm wondering if the bay bars will be weaker if they are 1 pieces of tubing welded together. And if they are weaker is it enough to cause a safety or rigidity concern. I hope I never wreck the car but if I do it would be nice to be protected


[/QUOTE]In either case you would still cross brace the shock mounts and bring in the "down bars" from the cage to the top of the shock towers ? I assume if you did bring the triangulated bars to the center area of the firewall that they are penetrating the firewall and joining to a dash bar ? [/QUOTE]

Yes, this would be the case.

[/QUOTE]Just arm chairing it I would say those could be overkill at least if you are thinking more 1.75" DOM, it depends a little on how much top view angle you are getting from the cage to the shock towers. I guess I would be inclined to bring in the outside cage bars and cross engine brace, and then maybe go with something a little lighter and removeable if you still wanted to brace to the center of the firewall. You could build cage reinforcement on the cockpit side of the firewall, and provide a bolt in interface, and then use lighter weight removeable tubing that bolts on to the shock towers and the firewall reinforcement plate that I just mentioned.[/QUOTE]

I agree 1.75" is probably overkill. I was stating that the hoops are currently 1.75 and should note that the main cage would be too. I'm thinking the outer down bars from the main cage to the shock hoops will be 1.75 for sure but agree with something lighter and removable over the engine to tie the 2 hoops together. I would probably use something like 1.5" or maybe a little less for the inner triangle to the firewall. The bolt on firewall plate integrated across the hoop supports does sound like a good idea as well

[gerno]

Few more updates. Made some good progress on the trans/TA mounts and made some new engine mounts. took a while but I got it all in position. Engine is at 2 degrees and offset 3/4" to the passenger side. The trans mount has a removable center section and just enough room for the exhaust to tuck in. Everything should be tucked in under the frame, which will be really nice.

I still need to well in a sleeve to the engine mounts so they don't collapse then torqued down. Also need to drill the final mounting holes for the trans mount and weld the entire mount in but overall its mostly complete.


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The bearing race and tape roll are to simulate the exhaust. the angle iron is tacked to the bottom of the frame

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[Juicypop]

What a great build this is man!

[WSSix]

Nice work!

[gerno]

What a great build this is man!

Nice work!

Thanks, I always appreciate the words of encouragement.




I also just about finished the front accy drive. I still need to make 2 spacers and get a few new bolts but overall its done. Hopefully it works ok.

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[rickpaw]

Looking good Steve.

Quick question. Whose harmonic balancer are you using? Looks like a Powerbond unit?

Tu

[gerno]

Looking good Steve.

Quick question. Whose harmonic balancer are you using? Looks like a Powerbond unit?

Tu

Thanks Tu. Yes, its a Powerbond under drive balancer.

[rickpaw]

Thanks Steve. I really like the look of the Powerbond unit. Looks a lot factory like compared to ATI.

[glassman]

dam steve!! Everything looks soo tight and right. Nice job!!! Also, congrats on joining us in the jackstand class....

You going to paint it when the chassis is done? or just beat the snot out of it? either way, win vs win....

cheers, mike

[gerno]

Mike - its far from perfect but overall for my first dive into real fab work I'm pretty happy so far. An oh yea, its of jack stands in the shop. I don't have room for a lift so no choice.

Plan for now is to run car as is paint wise. I really want to reduce weight using composite panels of some kind and I want to add wider wheels all around which involves flares. beyond this I also want more aero enhancements. All of these would entail paint of some kind. I think for now Ill just run with current wheels, no flares, full weight and with as much aero as I can do without causing a respray. I just want to drive it again. I'm tired of seeing it in the shop.


On that note, I did put the rear suspension back together and put the car on the ground. I wanted to make sure everything is really aligned right...so far it seems good. The header tuck looks perfect too. Only small fear is the sway bar arms but I think since they are near the axle centerline that it will be ok. car is made to travel 2.75" and the x-member is now 3.25" off the ground, sounds pretty good to me assuming the body panels don't have any issues.

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Next steps are to clean the shop with the car out then tackle the rear suspension. Rear changes are a new pan hard bar mount to move the roll center down, adding an adj front mount for the trailing arms and installing adjusters for the coil overs.

[WSSix]

Looks great, Steve! You're sitting lower than me but I bet you have way better suspension travel and articulation. Love the way it's shaping up.

[GregWeld]

Dang buddy! Looking pretty sweet! Looks fast!

Giddy up!

[Goosesdad]

Well done!! I can appreciate the work you did on the trans xmember, looks awesome!!

[Tinker]

I really like the work on the front subframe. Looks pretty close to what I would really like to do with my first gen, but I can't quite bite the bullet to pull it apart again.(or I'm just afraid to tell the wife)

[gerno]

It officially no longer rolling. The rear suspension has been cut out. Goals with the rear are to move the roll center down and make it more adjustable. Add a sway bar. Add an adjustable trailing arm front mount. I went with a full setup spec'd out per Sutton since it included everything needed. Ran into a few issues but have been able to work thru it.

First steps, cut out the old parts and clean up the frame rails... This included a lot of grinding and make a big mess... Pretty much sucked. I also got some metal in my eye. Advise for others, don't use cheap safety glasses.

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Next I tacked the Axle side pan hard mount on the axle per spec

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Next was to install the X-member between the frame rails. Here we ran into the first issue. The trunk floor has a slope and interferes with the spec'd 2" tube. Lots of potential solutions were discussed. I decided to move to a 1 3/4 tub and to notch the ends so it hangs slightly below the rails. Main 2 reasons I wanted to do this was was 1 - I wouldn't have to cut the trunk floor. 2 - having the tube hang lower gave me more area to weld the x- member

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Next I wanted to ensure the coil overs fit without issue. I wanted to change from a static upper mount to a dog bone adjuster so I wanted to get an idea how hard this would be. Here I ran into another issue. Per spec the pass side coil over hits the pan hard mount on the axle. After discussing with Sutton we decided the best fix was moving the mount in 1/2" on both side of the car. Changing the Panhard length from 31-30"

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After this I started to mock up the sway bar mounts. It took some time to get it 100% straight but I finally got it. By moving the pan hard mounts in the sway bar is extremely tight to fit but it did work. I don't have pics but the mounts on the axle were also tacked out. Main thing I checked were the angles in both the most extreme front and rear mounting holes on the arms. I measured the both to 27 degrees. its a lot of angle but at least they are equal.

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Last 2 things were to add the support for the pan hard downbar mount and to cut the pan hard itself 1" to fit in the revised position. Overall this was pretty straight forward but it took a lot of time to get the support gusset mitered for the perfect fit

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In the next week or 2 I'll be focusing on the new trailing arm mount and then will focus on the new upper coil over mounts. The latter of the 2 looks like its going to be a real challenge... Hopefully I'm more nervous than I need to be.

[spinedoc]

Amazing!!

[rickpaw]

So Steve, any new updates on the car?

Tu

[syborg tt]

Wow I love this build !!!

[waynieZ]

It looks good Steve.

[Build-It-Break-it]

Any updates Steve?

[gerno]

No recent updates on the car but hoping to have some soon. Having some issues with fitting the coiloivers in the rear and lost motivation. I'm highly debating mounting the coil overs in the trunk on the cage with a cantilever setup so I have more room under the car. Overall I pretty much forgot why I liked doing this hobby so I decided to pick up something new for motivation. Grabbed this '73 240Z that's been sitting since 1988

The Z is basically all stock and a completely different animal. This is my first import. It has a whopping 150hp in the 2.4L straight 6... I pulled the suspension, blasted it all and painted it along with all new bushings, shocks, springs, wheels, tires. I have to say this little car is a blast to drive. Its doing its job and quickly motivating me to get back to the Camaro .

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[rickpaw]

Good to hear from you Steve.

Nice find on the z. What are your long term plans for it? LS swap and widebody flares?

Looks like you picked up a new truck too. :)

Looking forward to updates on the cars.

[GregWeld]

I grew up with the Z..... and they were always cool cars (until the bloat set in).

Good for you!

Get a FUN daily for inspiration and some hoots. Not everything has to have 800hp


XOXO
See ya in September at The big track when we show up for the Hall of Fame Tour???

[gerno]

Good to hear from you Steve.

Nice find on the z. What are your long term plans for it? LS swap and widebody flares?

Looks like you picked up a new truck too. :)

Looking forward to updates on the cars.

No crazy plans for this one. Initial thought was a LS swap but I have too many projects and don't want the car sitting. I also wanted to see what it was like to drive a car like this in factory form. Now that I've driven it I really like it as it is so its going to stay this way... at least until the Camaro and 59 Hauler build is complete.

Yep, got a new truck as well. Got tired of the 6.0 Powerstroke dying on me. Last time it died towing the Mustang to TWS for the final track day before they shut it down. I missed out and had enough so I picked up a new Ram with a Cummins. Its a basic truck with steps, wheels, 35's and towing bags in the back. It's so much better than the old Ford I had, I can hardly tell my enclosed trailer is behind me when towing. Very happy with the purchase

I grew up with the Z..... and they were always cool cars (until the bloat set in).

Good for you!

Get a FUN daily for inspiration and some hoots. Not everything has to have 800hp


XOXO
See ya in September at The big track when we show up for the Hall of Fame Tour???

Are you talking about COTA or Motor Speedway? Either way I'll gladly make time to come hang out. Probably won't have a car for GG's but who knows, that may change. I'm itching to see your new track beast at COTA tearing up some Exotics.

[rickpaw]

... at least until the Camaro and 59 Hauler build is complete....

Yep, got a new truck as well. Got tired of the 6.0 Powerstroke dying on me. Last time it died towing the Mustang to TWS for the final track day before they shut it down. I missed out and had enough so I picked up a new Ram with a Cummins. Its a basic truck with steps, wheels, 35's and towing bags in the back. It's so much better than the old Ford I had, I can hardly tell my enclosed trailer is behind me when towing. Very happy with the purchase




Details on the 59 hauler?

We have a lot of 6.0 diesels dying on our fleet trucks as well. Seem to be an on-going issues with 6.0 Powestrokes.

[GregWeld]

Are you talking about COTA or Motor Speedway? Either way I'll gladly make time to come hang out. Probably won't have a car for GG's but who knows, that may change. I'm itching to see your new track beast at COTA tearing up some Exotics.



I just wanna be able to run with SW and his ACR...... he's crazy good driver.

See ya soon buddy!!

[SSLance]

Man, that interior on that Z is NICE... Great find!!!

[Flash68]

Nothing wrong with taking a break on a project... :)

That 59 Hauler is so bad ass. I hope you get back on that soon.

And that Z is a sweet little car. Nice choice on the wheels.

The light will come back on with Camaro soon and you'll get to work on whatever that plan becomes.

:cheers:

[glassman]

Hey Steve, nice find!! Try and come hang out too at the Marriot across from the speedway if you can when we get done with the hall of fame tour. It is its own show and party.
My buddy mark who will be on tour with us this year picked up a white 240 two years back...
Oh and what he ^^^^ said, nice wheel choice.

[WSSix]

x2 on taking a break. I'm in the same position with the TA. I just started back on it last weekend slowly. Working on getting back into the groove because it really does take a lot of effort and time. Good luck, Steve. I say go cantilevered in the trunk since you're so low.

[Rallycamaro]

Fantastic build! Just spent three days reading (almost) every post :confused18: Really like many of the build aspects and will be "borrowing" heavily from some of them for my AI build. Mines not going to be a street car so I won't be looking at the compromises needed for that. The main difference being the leafs will have to stay to run AI (don't have the coin to run AIX) so I'll be doing something different there.

Looking forward to your return to the build and will check back in then.

Bradley

[gerno]

Finally made some time to get back on the build. I've decided I'm no longer going crazy all in with this build. Overall its not a race car and will never win a USCA title. Its a fun street car that had taught me a lot about fab work. Goal now is to get it back on the road and enjoy the car

First set was mounting the coil overs. I decided to stick with the dogbone adjusters mainly because it's such a tight fit and would allow easier rebound adjustment of the shocks with them mounted upside down. I aligned the coil over adjusters and welded them up to the panhard crossmember after a lot of test fitting and fine tuning. The x-members are not fully welded to the frame but all mounts on the x-member are fully welded and complete. Hopefully my welds are decent and hold.. I'm a bit nervous.. I extended the mount thru the floor in an effort to add strength to the mount. I'm a little worried the mount will want to rotate so I'll be welding it to the floor and also adding a boxed brace in side the truck to connect the 2 mounts. Unfortunately the hole in the floor is a little off on one side but I'll fix that up later.

The good thing is the car is finally sitting on the ground for the first time in 2 years....


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[gerno]

One reason I'm focused on getting the car on the ground is to get to racing this year. I decided to sell off the 95 Stang and bought a "race ready" 3rd Gen to run in NASA CMC. Decided it was better to buy a done car and enjoy it vs wasting time on another project. Unfortunately it wasn't quite as nice as I hoped but that's what can happen when you buy a car sight unseen. Fortunately it was priced good enough and won't be terrible to make a few changes to the car to have it fully sorted by the first NASA Texas even in January. the 72 rolls out of the shop tonight and the Green Machine comes in tonight for a full once over.

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[Flash68]

Go Big Green!

[Build-It-Break-it]

Wow! Glad to see you back on it. Your build always inspired mine. I changed my speedtech panhard bar set up cuz you. Maybe I'll give the upper coil over adjusters another go. Just seems like so much work to do but what the heck I already have the mounts.

Great job!

[SSLance]

Glad to see you back at it...even of its just to get it out of the way for the new toy. :D

They arent a lot of fun if you dont get to drive/race them occasionally...

[Bygblok]

hey Steve, I know it's been a LONG time ago that you had the original coil-over's in the car but by chance do you recall what springs you ran? I've got a newly installed Viking conversion in my 70 and have a set of 450# springs and PTFB upper arms(stock gusseted lowers) I see in your original's you only had the adjusters up a few inches and was curious as to the height from center hub to fenderwell. I'm trying to get a baseline on mine right now before I put it back on the ground and by having the adjusters up about three inches it seems like I have much more height than I'd like to have based on lifting from the spring pocket(I know the fulcrum will be further out with the wheel on the spindle but THAT much height?) Really love your build and would love to take my 70 that direction but I also have two other cars eating the fun budget right now! Thanks man and keep moving forward. Awesome stuff! Bill

[gerno]

Wow! Glad to see you back on it. Your build always inspired mine. I changed my speedtech panhard bar set up cuz you. Maybe I'll give the upper coil over adjusters another go. Just seems like so much work to do but what the heck I already have the mounts.

Great job!

Ahmad - Don't do it. Just use the Speedtech mounts you already have on the car. If i had it to do again I would do like you did and simply modify the Speedtech stuff vs starting new. I've done a lot of "optimizing" and doubt there will be any real gain vs the work I've done. Keep the car simple and enjoy it. If you want to cut something up, get a true race car. Thats my new perspective.

Glad to see you back at it...even of its just to get it out of the way for the new toy. :D

They arent a lot of fun if you dont get to drive/race them occasionally...

The race car needs a few small details to make it right. First event is at the end of January so the 72 will be back in the shop very soon. Hoping to have it driving by March. Life circumstances have changed again, the nagging GF is now gone so I have a lot more time to focus on things once again.

hey Steve, I know it's been a LONG time ago that you had the original coil-over's in the car but by chance do you recall what springs you ran? I've got a newly installed Viking conversion in my 70 and have a set of 450# springs and PTFB upper arms(stock gusseted lowers) I see in your original's you only had the adjusters up a few inches and was curious as to the height from center hub to fenderwell. I'm trying to get a baseline on mine right now before I put it back on the ground and by having the adjusters up about three inches it seems like I have much more height than I'd like to have based on lifting from the spring pocket(I know the fulcrum will be further out with the wheel on the spindle but THAT much height?) Really love your build and would love to take my 70 that direction but I also have two other cars eating the fun budget right now! Thanks man and keep moving forward. Awesome stuff! Bill

I'll have to check the springs again. I know I had some 550's on it but not sure if they were the front or what the other springs were. They were the springs recommended by Speedtech with the Ridetech shocks. I don't recall the height of the fender. I basically just set it so it was as low as I could get without rubbing the tires. Nothing calculated, just made it look nice.

[Build-It-Break-it]

[QUOTE=gerno;687469]Ahmad - Don't do it. Just use the Speedtech mounts you already have on the car. If i had it to do again I would do like you did and simply modify the Speedtech stuff vs starting new. I've done a lot of "optimizing" and doubt there will be any real gain vs the work I've done. Keep the car simple and enjoy it. If you want to cut something up, get a true race car. Thats my new perspective.[/QUOTE

Gotcha. Id have to show you pictures of how I did my rear set up. I "grafted" in the panhard bar mount into the original speedtech crossmember.

I was going to do the same for the "dog bone" style adjusters your using but if it's not worth then then I might just leave them as is. I already have them but if there's no benefits then I'll probably take your advice.

I was thinking it would be way easier to jack the car up slightly and be able to adjust ride height from in the trunk.

I literally went out to the garage last night when I saw your updated and started planning it. Im in the same boat as you tho, I just want to drive my car at this point but always see the latest and greatest and want want want.

[gerno]

You emailed me some pics before. I liked the way you grafted it in, smart solution. Just get the car done and drive it.

I also had plans for a street/track cage, custom floors and firewall. At this point I'm seriously thinking screw it all and just get the car back on the road. The end result will be a hybrid of the 2 thoughts. It will be interesting to see how I end up.

[rickpaw]

Glad to see you're back at it Steve. I started to wonder what happened to you and the car.

[WSSix]

x2 Glad to see you're back on it, Steve. I know that feeling of just wanting to drive the car all too well. Good luck moving forward! Also, good luck with the new green machine!

[Build-It-Break-it]

Any updates on either of your Camaros Steve?

[gerno]

No recent updates on the 72. Its sitting on its own wheels again with suspension tacked in.

I've been focused on the Green Machine. Car was completely gutted, cage rewarded properly, engine rebuilt, trans rebuilt, complete new wiring and gauge panel. Not sure there is anything I haven't touched. Lately I have been spending lots of time at the track tuning out bugs and learning to drive again in prep to run NASA CMC next year. Its been a great time so far and NASA guys are so much fun. I really should have never taken the camaro apart... should have just bought a real race car a long time ago

Summer heat is coming soon here in Austin so I'll be done with the track for a few months and plan to get back on the 72. Goal is to have it driving by the end of the year and then start up on the 59 Viking hauler soon after.

[gerno]

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[gerno]

Sorry, no clue why the pics are rotating...

[Build-It-Break-it]

Wow looks great Steve. Did you do your own cage?