Project 'Too Much': 1969 P1800S - soon to be P1800 GT

[daemon2]

I picked up this car last summer, I had never seen one before and wanted it as soon as I came across it.
When I bought it I told my wife I would drive it as is 'don't need to change anything'....
I have done some minor bolt on changes to previous cars, but nothing to this scale before. I would appreciate feedback through the build if you see anything that seems off.;)
Initially I was looking at a mustang II front and 9" rear, I am actually running Mustang II coilovers in the front of this car now and adjustable spring perches in the rear that gives me about 4 inches of lowering.
The car is solid and would run forever the way it is, until rust ate it apart. My plans are:
Corvette IFS and IRS
20x11 rear 19x10 front
LS engine - turbo
complete rebuild to clear out any rust
interior, electronics, the works.

When the rendering is available I will post it, here are some images the way it sits today.

My build will be called 'Too Much' - (my families idea)

Wish me luck!

The fourth image is the car passing emission testing.
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800S%203.jpg
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800S%202.jpg
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800S%201.jpg
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800S%204.jpg

[coolwelder62]

GLW your build.Will be watching.:thumbsup:

[mexMan]

Watch Iamtheonlyreal1 products, I've been following his builds and I'm amazed by the quality, anyway, the car looks in perfect shape, looking forward the build pics.

[daemon2]

Tear down begins!
original interior
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/int%201.JPG
original guages - I wan't to replicate these with modern guages
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/guages.JPG
B20F - 100 hp?
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/b20f.JPG
engine bay - day 1 :)
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/bay.JPG

Thanks for the replies!

Here is some information on a build in Sweden that inspired my project.
http://www.p1800gt.se/

[454SSguy]

that is gonna be an awesome project, can't wait to see the rendering.

[DETON8R]

I saw the P1800 build on here on Lateral-g and I got inspired. I am in the middle of a 1969 Camaro build, and my next car will be a P1800. I found a 1965 P1800S in the woods in Willits, CA, a complete car with documents that go back to when it was imported into Canada from Sweeden, maintenance records from the 60's to the late 80's from all the owners up until the current owner who drove it until 1990 then parked it. Major rust in some spots on the floor pan, rockers and wheel openings, almost none in others and most of the rest of the car, I need to start tearing into the car to see whether the floor is salvageable, everything else is mostly rust free and solid (the car spent its first years in the rust belt in Canada), but there is some minor body damage to deal with too.

I've been checking out a bunch of things to do with the car. If the car is rust free and straight, check out this thread on CHANGLING. You can also search Google on "P1800" and "LS1" and there are other threads on that build.
http://www.lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=24972&highlight=p1800
Robert has put together a suspension kit for P1800's and Amazon's, looks slick, and mostly a bolt up application. Front and Rear kit.
http://www.lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=32149&page=6&highlight=p1800

I went to the Good Guys event this summer in Pleasanton, CA and talked to the guys at Art Morrison, and they have built a G-Max replacement frame for a customer already. Send them an email and they can send you info on the P1800 frame they put together for a customer already. Major floor sheet metal surgery on that car if you use that set up for sure, but there are some REALLY-REALLY-REALLY SICK/AWESOME/RADICAL rides based on the G-Max (I'm still blown away by the 1954 Vette with a G-max frame). Well worth an email and a phone call.
http://autoeclectic.com/monster-vett-1954-zr1/

From what I've been able to figure out, the wheel base is pretty narrow (96 inches) and the track width is pretty narrow too (59 to 63, depending on how much tire rub the owner is willing to tolerate!!). Kind of hard to use Vette geometry all around, unless you are willing to stretch the car, move the wheel openings and/or flare the fenders, and then trim the torque tube to fit the P1800 wheel base. It has been done, and it is a TON of fabrication. From what I've seen the recommended hub-to-hub track width from most custom shops would recommend a 53 to 55 inch range, and if you plan to use a C5/C vette front suspension, you might have some pretty narrow frame rails. DSE just released a narrower front frame. Don't know much about it, but it is a DSE product, and make some good stuff.
http://www.detroitspeed.com/productsall/032041-535-x-gen-frame.html

I've been hitting the Car shows and photographing other cars that have been built that are the same size and proportion. I found an Austin-Healey (??) of about the same size that had 2 to 3 inch flares on all four corners, and the side pipes that the builder used really brought the car back into proportion, as the car would have looked like a race car (and kinda funny) without the side pipes.

Have fun with the build!! And keep posting pics!! Lots of Pics!! :thumbsup:

[daemon2]

This is great stuff, thank you for the info!

[daemon2]

Some of the teardown is complete, I had a few hours over the weekend.
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/eb1.jpg
I have uncovered most of the car now and can see where the work will start.
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/peek.jpg
For the most part this car is in very good condition.
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/int1.jpg
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/ru1.jpg

almost time to cut.
There are a few panels that will need to be replaced and I have a few places where a finger can go through the floor :)

[daemon2]

When you get into your build, if you find you need body or floor panels get in touch with Robin at Wolf Steel.http://www.alfaparts.net/
He's great to work with and has a good selection available for these cars.

I saw the P1800 build on here on Lateral-g and I got inspired. I am in the middle of a 1969 Camaro build, and my next car will be a P1800. I found a 1965 P1800S in the woods in Willits, CA, a complete car with documents that go back to when it was imported into Canada from Sweeden, maintenance records from the 60's to the late 80's from all the owners up until the current owner who drove it until 1990 then parked it. Major rust in some spots on the floor pan, rockers and wheel openings, almost none in others and most of the rest of the car, I need to start tearing into the car to see whether the floor is salvageable, everything else is mostly rust free and solid (the car spent its first years in the rust belt in Canada), but there is some minor body damage to deal with too.

I've been checking out a bunch of things to do with the car. If the car is rust free and straight, check out this thread on CHANGLING. You can also search Google on "P1800" and "LS1" and there are other threads on that build.
http://www.lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=24972&highlight=p1800
Robert has put together a suspension kit for P1800's and Amazon's, looks slick, and mostly a bolt up application. Front and Rear kit.
http://www.lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=32149&page=6&highlight=p1800

I went to the Good Guys event this summer in Pleasanton, CA and talked to the guys at Art Morrison, and they have built a G-Max replacement frame for a customer already. Send them an email and they can send you info on the P1800 frame they put together for a customer already. Major floor sheet metal surgery on that car if you use that set up for sure, but there are some REALLY-REALLY-REALLY SICK/AWESOME/RADICAL rides based on the G-Max (I'm still blown away by the 1954 Vette with a G-max frame). Well worth an email and a phone call.
http://autoeclectic.com/monster-vett-1954-zr1/

From what I've been able to figure out, the wheel base is pretty narrow (96 inches) and the track width is pretty narrow too (59 to 63, depending on how much tire rub the owner is willing to tolerate!!). Kind of hard to use Vette geometry all around, unless you are willing to stretch the car, move the wheel openings and/or flare the fenders, and then trim the torque tube to fit the P1800 wheel base. It has been done, and it is a TON of fabrication. From what I've seen the recommended hub-to-hub track width from most custom shops would recommend a 53 to 55 inch range, and if you plan to use a C5/C vette front suspension, you might have some pretty narrow frame rails. DSE just released a narrower front frame. Don't know much about it, but it is a DSE product, and make some good stuff.
http://www.detroitspeed.com/productsall/032041-535-x-gen-frame.html

I've been hitting the Car shows and photographing other cars that have been built that are the same size and proportion. I found an Austin-Healey (??) of about the same size that had 2 to 3 inch flares on all four corners, and the side pipes that the builder used really brought the car back into proportion, as the car would have looked like a race car (and kinda funny) without the side pipes.

Have fun with the build!! And keep posting pics!! Lots of Pics!! :thumbsup:

[Iamtheonlyreal1]

Good luck on the build, I have been telling the P1800/Amazon community that they need to get off their asses and represent in the real car classes.. LOL Seems, I have been black listed by alot of the organizations, because these cars are perfect in their original form. I had a couple of guys literally say that if the original OEM suspension and drivetrain setup was tuned right, it would far surpass anyones driving capabilities.. LOL No Lie, they really believe this.. Once we get a couple of the P1800's and Amazon's completed, we have a agreed to put one of them up against the originally configured car, so lets just hope they actually show up since it was their idea.

Just let me know if you need anything.. I would be happy to help out in what ever fashion I can.. I was considering the full Corvette chassis also, but there was going to be way to much fab to the car and the chassis to get it done, so I decided not to go that route. Our kits are a direct bolt in, because we are building several of these 545 horsepower projects, and I wanted to ensure some consistancy in the builds.. So all of our stuff is CAD'd and mass produced at this time.

[daemon2]

Thank you for the offer, I will let you know if I need anything. For the purists:
Things alter for the worse spontaneously, if they be not altered for the better designedly.
I am aiming for designedly. :)


Good luck on the build, I have been telling the P1800/Amazon community that they need to get off their asses and represent in the real car classes.. LOL Seems, I have been black listed by alot of the organizations, because these cars are perfect in their original form. I had a couple of guys literally say that if the original OEM suspension and drivetrain setup was tuned right, it would far surpass anyones driving capabilities.. LOL No Lie, they really believe this.. Once we get a couple of the P1800's and Amazon's completed, we have a agreed to put one of them up against the originally configured car, so lets just hope they actually show up since it was their idea.

Just let me know if you need anything.. I would be happy to help out in what ever fashion I can.. I was considering the full Corvette chassis also, but there was going to be way to much fab to the car and the chassis to get it done, so I decided not to go that route. Our kits are a direct bolt in, because we are building several of these 545 horsepower projects, and I wanted to ensure some consistancy in the builds.. So all of our stuff is CAD'd and mass produced at this time.

[waynieZ]

This will be fun to watch. I really like that body style.

[daemon2]

Today's work:
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/drivers%20side%20tear%20down.jpg
Drivers side floor - numerous layers of metal in here
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/drivers%20side%20previous%20repair%20close%202.jpg
I wonder what we'll find underneath?

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/tear%20down%20int%202.jpg
The old battery box location - this will come out and the battery will be relocated to the rear of the car.

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/tubs.JPG

I need room for a few more inches of wheel and tire- I believe the originals were 7" wide, new ones are just under 12.

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/rear%20rails.jpg

This will go, there are signs of rust in the top of the frame rails - won't need them anyway. The new axle centreline will be approximately where the bottom of this spring perch sits now.

[DETON8R]

Thank you for the link and the recommendation for the floor pans. :thumbsup:

Once the car comes apart I will be looking at options, and the magnitude of the required repairs, because there are more then a few repairs required on the floor. The bigger the repair the more I will lean toward a replacement frame and just tear everything apart. Wide rear tires will be a part of that design too, so I will be modifying the floor no matter what.

Keep the photos coming, especially of the replacement and mods for the rear openings!!

[daemon2]

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/inner%20fender.jpg
I think I have found almost all the rust so I can finalize the plan for what I keep and what needs to go.
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/rusted%20o%20frame%20rail.jpg
Frame rails and floor are on the go list.
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/test%20fit.jpg
I test fit the C4 IRS so I can measure out the rear frame rails and start on them.
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/rear%20test%20fit%20side%201.jpg
looks ok but we'll need a little more width to the rear.
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/cor%20det%20cls%201.jpg
Check these out! :)

[daemon2]

Just had an update on the rendering, it should be up this week.

[daemon2]

I removed the battery box, it had fiberglass repairs in with the metal and rust. I will rework the entire firewall later on:
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/battery%20box%20removal.jpg

The engine bay is clear now and looks pretty good overall.
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/engine%20bay%20clean%20up.jpg

These cars typically see rust in the window frames, and in the body where the water runs inside from these bad spots. No surprise to see this, but the car looked great from outside...
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/front%20window%20b4.jpg

Front repair panel, just a start. This is a first attempt for me.
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/front%20window%20repair%20panel.jpg

Rear window lower frame, same issue but the water didn't cause damage any further down which is great news!

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/rear%20window%20b4.jpg

And the repair panel:
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/rear%20window%20rust%20repair%20panel.jpg

Now the paint will need to be blasted off and I can start on the frame rails, or whatever else we uncover first...

[DETON8R]

Nice updates on the project!!

I've looked at squeezing a C4 IRS and after talking to a few different frame builders there seemed to be a limit to the amount of tire width that could be squeezed into the rear end of that car with a C4 Vette IRS, as the stock hub-to-hub is around 63" and the narrowest most frame makers would go was usually in the 59" range, and with the car only 64-65" in the rear it would limit how wide the tires would be, unless there were fender flares. I'm over planning this aren't I???

Are you going 100% custom on that rear end? Or is there an aftermarket kit that makes that rear end kit and are you just welding that in?

[daemon2]

I have built the rear bracket for the c4 IRS from images I found online and stock c4 diagrams.
The rear is quite a bit wider, I have custom wheels that I had cut for this setup but will still have some work to do on the width of the body. I don't mind flares but also don't want to ruin the lines of the car. So I have to take it slow.
If I had that rendering back already...:rolleyes:
I will post more updates when I can, I will be replacing the rear frame rails with a 2x3 frame and am currently considering a full frame under the car. I found rust in the rear portions of the rocker supports the other day.

I really wanted a deep dish wheel on the back but could only fit so much into the narrow body.

[DETON8R]

Thanks for the download on your frame design ideas and progress. I've looked at alternatives to a Vette/Jag/Ford T-Bird IRS, and while there are a few really custom set-up's there isn't a long track record on most of those custom set-ups. The only truly stock set-up that looks like it would work without changing the hub-to-hub distance is either a Miata or BMW 3-series. Both have a significant selection of aftermarket parts available (shocks, caster/camber kits, brakes, rotors, etc.) and can be upgraded to handle pro-touring engine power and abuse.

Sounds like you and I are in the same boat, the harder I look at the car the more rust/rot/damage I find, which has me leaning away from the Sweedish Ops replacement k-member and 4-link set-up. Besides, the more I think about blowing out the floor and going 100% custom, the more possibilities open up.:D

Good thing I have another car to finish before I make any commitments.......

[daemon2]

I've got a great artist working on my renderings, today I had a sneak peek at how its coming together.
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/teaser%201.jpg

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/teaser%202.jpg
I'm happy so far, its hard to build what you can't 'see'.

No rust on these...:D

[DETON8R]

Nice to have the ability to visualize your project beforehand. I don't think I'll get that luxury, so I'll have to borrow from your images. And anybody else that can send me their build info and photos. HA!!

What do they say, Imitation is the highest form of flattery!

I like the look of the curled flares rather than the flat flares like those that are found on the BMW M3 Roadster.

Looks like you will be using the stock wheel openings, then modifying those upper lips. I've been looking at the Vox renderings, and the build from Robert Jackson, and the wheel openings have been reworked in those builds, mostly looks like they just raised the top lip of the opening, and widened the opening overall, then added the flare. Also, I'd think about changing the wheel base (for better weight distribution, if it will make a difference worth the effort) if there are any advantages. The Vox rendering has a longer hood/front end and the longer hood is a bit more of the "Muscle Car" look instead of the "European Sports Car" look.

I've been looking at that and there are other ways to do that. The simplest way is to just extend the nose, in the same way that Carol Shelby extended the nose of the AC Ace and made it the AC Cobra. Not sure how much effort I'd expend at really extending the entire front end.

Any mods to the tail fins, head lights, bumpers, spoiler in the plans too?

Sorry, I'm just way too curious.

[Iamtheonlyreal1]

I dont mean to interrupt the thread here with pics of my builds, but I just wanted to point out that the Weight Balance wont really be off.. I will have these cars on the scales before too long, and I think everyone would be very surprised at what these cars weight distributions will be after all the mods and upgrades. I dont really think there is much need to extend the wheel base, because the V8's will sit in these cars in a better position than the OEM 4cyl.. If you notice, the front of the LS heads are at the spindle position, so there isnt really any overhange.. The Accessories of the motor is really the only thing forward of the spindle, and the Radiator is the only thing forward of the tires..

With all the mods and weight savings we have done with the crossmember/suspension kit, we will be within about 40 pounds of the original front end weight.. You also have to then take into account the motor actually sits about 4 inches further back than the OEM 4cyl, along with sitting in a lower postion, for a better center of gravity.

In these pics, the motor is fully accessorized, and mounted in position. The headers pictured, are our mock ups for production, and they are currently being set up for production.

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll255/Iamtheonlyreal1/Project%20Saint%20Marie/002-6.jpg

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll255/Iamtheonlyreal1/Project%20Saint%20Marie/007-6.jpg

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll255/Iamtheonlyreal1/Project%20Saint%20Marie/003-9.jpg

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll255/Iamtheonlyreal1/Project%20Saint%20Marie/015-3.jpg


I didnt extend the wheel base, but I think the front end mods did help in changing the appearance of the factory short nose. Rasing the Wheel Arches by far makes the most change in the overall appearance and stance of the car. I dont have the correct offset wheels on the car, so the front wheel seems to stick out a bit too much.. If you look at the first pic, you will see the appearance and ride height capability with the same 19 inch wheels as are pictured after the wheel arch mods..

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll255/Iamtheonlyreal1/volvo/000_0006-1.jpg

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll255/Iamtheonlyreal1/volvo/000_0002.jpg

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll255/Iamtheonlyreal1/volvo/012-12.jpg

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll255/Iamtheonlyreal1/volvo/010-26.jpg

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll255/Iamtheonlyreal1/volvo/006-36.jpg

[daemon2]

I have been playing with a few suspension simulators and trying to calculate a few things for the rear suspension geometry. The stock C4 had a 96.2 inch wheelbase and 3239 lbs, my P1800 had 96.5 inch wheelbase stock at about 2500lbs.

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/squat%20sized.jpg

I am having problems with the Antisquat and centre of gravity because I have to guess on weight and distribution right now. I almost have to have the car finished so I can weigh it and calculate from there. ?

So what I am doing is lining up the wheel location, determined the location of the batwing and diff then I will work out the coilovers based on my estimated weight and ride height. This leave the location and angles for trailing arms without screwing up antisquat and roll centre.

But like I said, this is new to me. Any ideas?

I may want to extend the wheelbase but my feeling right now is that would only by a cosmetic change.

Hang in there with me, as the car comes along I'll share as much info as I can to help you with yours.

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/geometry.jpg

Nice to have the ability to visualize your project beforehand. I don't think I'll get that luxury, so I'll have to borrow from your images. And anybody else that can send me their build info and photos. HA!!

What do they say, Imitation is the highest form of flattery!

I like the look of the curled flares rather than the flat flares like those that are found on the BMW M3 Roadster.

Looks like you will be using the stock wheel openings, then modifying those upper lips. I've been looking at the Vox renderings, and the build from Robert Jackson, and the wheel openings have been reworked in those builds, mostly looks like they just raised the top lip of the opening, and widened the opening overall, then added the flare. Also, I'd think about changing the wheel base (for better weight distribution, if it will make a difference worth the effort) if there are any advantages. The Vox rendering has a longer hood/front end and the longer hood is a bit more of the "Muscle Car" look instead of the "European Sports Car" look.

I've been looking at that and there are other ways to do that. The simplest way is to just extend the nose, in the same way that Carol Shelby extended the nose of the AC Ace and made it the AC Cobra. Not sure how much effort I'd expend at really extending the entire front end.

Any mods to the tail fins, head lights, bumpers, spoiler in the plans too?

Sorry, I'm just way too curious.

[daemon2]

Can you corner weight your car and send me the numbers?

I dont mean to interrupt the thread here with pics of my builds, but I just wanted to point out that the Weight Balance wont really be off..

[Iamtheonlyreal1]

I will have the corner weights before too long, along with the front to rear distribution percentages.. I would ask though, did the C4 have great suspension performance? The cars I had driven, really didnt impress me much. They seemed to have the squatty affect, and seem to be a bit sketchy.. I just wonder if it is worth all the mods to make this work, and what the actual gains would be. I am not pretending to know, just honestly wondering what the overall gains would be?

I will be doing some reconfiguration here or there also, when it comes to component placement.. We are working on a production Jaguary style placed fuel tank, that will stand up in the front of the trunk, near the rear axle. We will then have an OEM fuel tank delete plate, that will have a recessed area made into it, so we can house the battery in a centered position, as close to the rear axle as possible. I am trying to get rid of alot of the factory rear axle over hang weight, which should be very beneficial in setup..

Also, by running the Jaguar style fuel tank and the OEM tank delete plate, it will allow us to run a transverse muffler assembly in the space that the factory fuel tank occupied. This will help with ground clearance issues, and muffler size and placement, because we will only have exhaust pipe running the length of the car.

[daemon2]

This is an interesting question and one that attracts a lot of opinions from motorheads around the globe.
The C4 has a good track record and is used by rodders in a wide variety of projects.
Ride quality is a very subjective topic. Its known that the C4 was designed for handling and sacrificed some ride quality as a result of this.

"In 1988, the Sports Car Club of America (SCCA) outlawed all Showroom Stock Corvettes from its racing events. The reason? The Vettes had not been beaten in three years of racing against the world's best sports cars, and their competitors complained so loudly that the sanctioning body finally had to act."

Read more: http://www.vetteweb.com/events/vemp_0705_the_corvette_challenge/index.html#ixzz1lKrzBzl2

There are a wide variety of options out there, there are people who won't like my approach.

Bottom line, this is what I chose to go with and I am happy with the project so far.

It may be possible that the C4 you saw had worn suspension parts?

.. I would ask though, did the C4 have great suspension performance? The cars I had driven, really didnt impress me much. They seemed to have the squatty affect, and seem to be a bit sketchy.. I just wonder if it is worth all the mods to make this work, and what the actual gains would be. I am not pretending to know, just honestly wondering what the overall gains would be?

[Iamtheonlyreal1]

Fair enough.. As I have said, I didnt really do any research in that direction, so I didnt know the particulars or sacrifices.. It just seemed to be alot of work, and just wondered what the potential gain over other alternatives might be..

[DETON8R]

Great back and forth guys.

Robert, nice progress on St Marie. :thumbsup:
Do you have a build thread on that car posted somewhere else? I have not looked at other boards lately.

Daemon, nice work so far and I'd love to see how the car comes together with the IRS. I know I'm good with sheet metal and a few other mechanical/structural things, and at this point I wouldn't take on a project like reworking a rear suspension like you have. Unfortunately I know my limitations. I'd consider putting an unmodified IRS (unmodified geometry that is) onto a car, however I don't have the confidence to do what you are doing. I've seen a few cars (tri-5's and early 60's GM full size cars) with replacement frames and C4 Vette based IRS's, and I've heard nothing but praises and amazement from the owners of the cars. The C4 Vette has been tried and tested in many configurations, and most of those have been without narrowing the IRS too much. I'd really like to see how you put it together, and get your feedback on how it performs once it is together and you have had some time to put it through its paces, as the one thing that has come clear to me over this search for info is that anything can be done, it is just a matter of how well it works when it is put together. And does it do what you wanted it to do when you set out to put it together....

Having said all that, and since I'm not a suspension engineer, I'd prefer to let somebody else do the engineering and then tell me what can or can't be done with the set up. The one thing I don't want to do is waste a bunch of time, effort and money putting something together then finding out it won't work for what I wanted. Been there, done that, don't want to see that movie again.... :faint:

Keep the pictures coming and the explanations, as I've been watching several builds like this, and just seeing the pictures of these amazing cars come together really helps explain "the how" and "the why" of these builds. :cheers:

[Iamtheonlyreal1]

There is a Project Saint Marie Build thread here, just type it in.. The pieces below were developed, because we are building customer cars, and I wanted parts that would take the bulk of the work out of it, and offer consistancy during the build. We have our shop build cars, 2 customer pay builds, and 4 more on the waiting list.

As far as making mod's simple and painless goes, this is the bolt in kit solution I came up with.. The coil over conversion kit, has 5 inches of quick ride height adjustment, without affecting suspension travel. If you look at the design of bar, you will see that it puts all the Load back into the spring pockets, rather than transfer it to the inner unibody frame rails like alot of other setups. The Aluminum adjustable trailing arms/panhard bar, lets you dial everything in at any ride height, and has multiple Panhard Bar mounting locations. The rear ends are offered in 54, 55, 56 inch track widths, so you can dial in the potential wheel choices for better fitment.

The bolt in front end kit, is completly adjustable, and has 2 inch drop spinles for an option, along with a wide variety of braking and steering options. Neither the front or the rear kit involves, cutting, welding, etc, so it is very simple for the weekend warrior, with a typical garage and tools.

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll255/Iamtheonlyreal1/Rear%20Axle%20and%20Suspension/001-2.jpg

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll255/Iamtheonlyreal1/Rear%20Axle%20and%20Suspension/013-1.jpg

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll255/Iamtheonlyreal1/Rear%20Axle%20and%20Suspension/011-2.jpg

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll255/Iamtheonlyreal1/Rear%20Axle%20and%20Suspension/016-1.jpg

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll255/Iamtheonlyreal1/Rear%20Axle%20and%20Suspension/020-2.jpg

[daemon2]

I have uncovered a mess of lap joints from the last person who worked on this thing. I'm not too excited about the extra work this will bring.
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/lap%20joints.jpg

I took a break from replacing a few of these lapped patches to layout the C4 front end.
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/rough%20layout.jpg

Here's the two together:
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/front%20end%20mock%20up.JPG

[Iamtheonlyreal1]

That looks pretty cool, but I do have a question. Do you plan on cutting away the original unibody structure on the front end? From my experience, the original body structure will not support the upper control arms at that length and width. The unibody upper control arm relief is not wide enough to accept any standard width arm through the opening.

I had to engineer some custom length arms, that would fit outside the unibody frame rails, in order to prevent the cutting away. This also added more engine bay room over the OEM, because the typical upper control arm intrusion was gone.

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll255/Iamtheonlyreal1/Amazon/005-3.jpg

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll255/Iamtheonlyreal1/Amazon/006-3.jpg

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll255/Iamtheonlyreal1/Amazon/017.jpg

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll255/Iamtheonlyreal1/Amazon/012-4.jpg

[daemon2]

Yea, I've pretty much moved away from any existing limitations of the original. Preserving the original unibody frame or internal body work wasn't a priority for me.
It's custom all the way now.:thumbsup:

[daemon2]

This may help explain why:
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/front%20fr.JPG

When I opened up the frame rails all I found was rust, the construction makes them prone to collecting water and causes them to flake apart from the inside out.

I will end up with a custom frame under this car, so far I am about 150lbs lighter with the new frame and floor than what I cut out. Also a big advantage for where I am headed.

I should also note that this car, although appearing in great condition when I started, was nowhere near original.

[Iamtheonlyreal1]

Ah, I got it.. LOL I totally understand, and was really just curious how much of the original unibody front rails and body structure you were keeping.. From the looks of the unit, it didnt appear you were keeping much.. ha ha

[daemon2]

The rendering arrived, thanks to Shawn@Mascoll Designs!
I have taken some cues from the 2009 Voxx rendering, its a shame no one has built that car.

I wanted more width and I think it came together very well.
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/Volvo_Render_Mascoll_Designs_SM.jpg

[Iamtheonlyreal1]

I am building that car (Project Changling)... LOL I have done about everything, and am hitting about 90 percent of the Vox Rendition. My glass company has started on the full glass treatment, including the full greenhouse roof/back glass and quarter glasses, and that should put the rendtions reality over the top..

Your rendition is very very cool, and you definitely got the correct stance. But you are going to find the front end is off a bit.. I ran into alot of issue with the front nose of this car, and the Vox Rendition.. There are so many compound curves that have to be dealt with, and in the drawing it is much easier than in reality, because the compound curves are not easy to translate in the drawing..

One question, do you plan on buiding up the trunk to surface? In the rendition, it is more squared off, and doest match up with the actual compound curve of the factory body. It looks as though you built up the trunk panel, to take away from the height of the fins?

[daemon2]

definately a lot of compound curves on this car, you're right. The deck lid may come up, I will see how things look back there after I fit the wheels in.
Thanks for the comments.

[daemon2]

One of my most frustrating weekends with the car since I got the thing. Finished some work on the rear crossmember but found more rust inside the rear rocker that I have to deal with now.
I suppose the good news is it will all be solid after I replace everything....:mad:

[daemon2]

I was letting the rust get to me then I found this:

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/bent%20ii%20p1800.jpg

It looks like this one failed in the same places that I am fixing rust issues now on mine.

This weekend I hope to finish the front clip and possibly gets the front brakes and suspension put on before fitting it to the car.

I will have to re-enforce my sills and have a few ideas on how to approach this, more pics to come in a few days hopefully.:thumbsup:

This is a P1800e, looks kinda cool:
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/p1800%20drag%20car.jpg

[daemon2]

I made some progress on the front clip the past two weekends. I have about 20 hours into this part of the car now, still need to complete suspension mounts and complete the attachment points.
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/brakes%20wheels.jpg
Nice big 6 pots up front.
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/offset%20img%20brake.jpg
The rack just fits, I may have to alter the mounts a bit to make sure the dust covers don't wear against the frame and there's enough clearance for the engine.
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/steering%20P1800.jpg
I was disappointed that the rack didn't come with the bushings for installation...:question:
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/rack.jpg

And an overall look, the rear crossmember is underway as well - you can see it just behind the front clip here:
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/front%20clip.jpg

Anyone know where I can get the C4 upper bolt spacers?

[daemon2]

A few small updates, I will work on getting some photo's a little further away from the car soon to give an overall look at how its coming along.

The brakes are all lockwired, it seems a shame to hide details like this:
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/rotor%20lock.jpg

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/lock%20wire%20close.jpg

The frame welds are looking pretty good, again don't really want to cover these up after appreciating the effort that went into it :)
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/weld%20quality.jpg

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/weld%202.jpg

I was not looking forward to opening up the panels, after the frustration of seeing all the patch work under bondo I wasn't sure what I would find here. It turned out really well though, not the disaster I was expecting at all.
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/quarter%20cav.jpg

I am finishing up the frame and moving into the rear body work now, I did a quick outline of the rear fender flares and will start work on a template so I can get both sides the same. The rear wheel is still sitting below ride height in this image, I didn't want to remove too much metal before deciding how to handle the new arches.
The wheel looks funny sticking out here now but once the green tape and tire totes are removed it won't appear to stick out so much.
Comments appreciated!
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/rear%20arch%20test%20fit.jpg

[daemon2]

I'm not liking the flares. They seem to throw the body lines of the car off too much. I did a quick CAD drawing of the current layout, purple shows the factory wheel config, the yellow is the new layout. The drawing shows how the car tapers in a lot toward the rear of the car, this makes it hard to form a flare that doesn't look strange.

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/cad%20layout%20p1800gt.jpg

Time for PLAN B.

[daemon2]

I slipped the front clip in today, getting set up to install the new side rails and cross supports. Here is the front; yes, that axle centreline is ahead of the wheel well centreline, guess what comes next...

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/front%20quarter%20v%20DCA%20P1800%20GT.jpg

Close up, the bottom a-arm looks like it is not level now because the car is sitting level, when it sits on the ground there is a slight rake that brings that lower a-arm back in where it belongs.

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/front%20test%20fit%20DCA%20P1800%20GT.jpg

Here is the interior, front rails with temporary supports in, once I measure and true everything the side rails and cross supports will go in. Then the new floor.

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/front%20rails%20int%20DCA%20P1800%20GT.jpg

I have also done a bit of work on the rear cross member, you can see how much higher the drive shaft and transmission tunnel comes in with the new drive line.

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/rear%20crossmember%20DCA%20P1800%20GT.jpg

Its hard to get a full image of the car becuase my garage is too small. Once I get it on the wheels I will roll it out to clean up the garage and get a few images of the entire car.

[daemon2]

I came in from the garage today and I think my wife left me. The downside of project cars?

[HWY Nova]

I came in from the garage today and I think my wife left me. The downside of project cars?

??????????????????


--Eric

[DETON8R]

I came in from the garage today and I think my wife left me. The downside of project cars?

What's up Daemon, things OK on the home front??

[WSSix]

Holy crap dude! Are you being serious? I hope everything is alright.

[daemon2]

It's all good, I missed a date I shouldn't have. I'll get some updates as soon as I can!

[WSSix]

Well, that's a relief. Be sure to take care of the marriage first. We'll patiently wait on updates of the car. :D

[Coursey]

Looks great:thumbsup:

Keep the updates coming

[Al Moreno]

I don't know how I missed this tread. AWESOME build! :hail:

[waynieZ]

It all looks great nice work.

[daemon2]

I continue work on the frame, I have the crossmembers set up and will move into the new side rails now. The rails will be inset into the rockers, you can see in this image the rusted panels had been replaced by the previous owner, the rust inside wasn't addressed though.
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/DCA%20P1800%20GT%20Frame%20crossmbr.jpg

I was completing another test fit before I wrap up the frame, this is ride height. The top of the tire will be just tucked into the body line with larger wheel openings when I get into the bodywork.

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/DCA%20P1800%20GT%20front%20fitmnt%20pre%20susp.jpg

New latches, lining everything up for now.

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/DCA%20P1800%20GT%20Bear%20Claw.jpg

I started to clean up the old tank so I can start the in tank EFI mod. It had a lot of rubberized undercoating and years of crap on it.

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/DCA%20P1800%20GT%20Tank%20strip.jpg

Once I had it stripped the top seemed porous so I decided it needed leak testing. Found one.

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/DCA%20P1800%20GT%20tank%20leak.jpg

Rest of the tank is good.

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/DCA%20P1800%20GT%20Tank%20seal.jpg

[daemon2]

So I was seriously stuck for a little while on the frame and fitment around the original floor. I was trying to keep as much of the original as possible but it just wasn't meshing with the new frame.
So I cut, a lot. Some of the metal here is temporary bracing but things are coming together now.
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/driveline%20p1800gt.jpg

I also removed the old inner sills that were pieced together from many repairs, there was up to 4 layers of metal in some places but most had turned into rust flakes. The new frame tucks nicely inside the sills on the sides now and the welds came out pretty good.
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/dca%20p1800gt%20rail%20weld.jpg

The frame is a floater right now :) - I have to get into some sheet metal work now to connect the sills and tie into the uni body. Some of the original areas will need strengthening, stretching, replacement...
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/dca%20p1800%20gt%20under%20hood.jpg

I will start to fab a new core support and extend the bodywork.
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/dca%20p1800%20gt%20front%20rough%20in.jpg

My in tank pump showed up so after I get the tank boiled out I can do some work on a baffled sump and installation.

Does anyone know where I can get a retaining ring that the CTS-V fuel pump locking ring attaches - the part that is welded to the tank? I may have to build my own pump retention rings.

[Garage Dog 65]

Check Hector at Vaporworxs.

http://vaporworx.com/

Check the retroworks kit tab on left menu. Here's the install instructions for his kit.

http://vaporworx.com/Vaporworx%20Fuel%20Tray,%20Mounting%20Ring,%20Corn er%20Pickups,%20and%20Wiring%20Instructions.pdf


Discussion from that other site.

http://www.pro-touring.com/showthread.php?77612-You-asked-for-you-got-it-Three-new-VaporWorx-products


Jim

[daemon2]

Excellent - thanks!

Check Hector at Vaporworxs.

http://vaporworx.com/

Check the retroworks kit tab on left menu. Here's the install instructions for his kit.

http://vaporworx.com/Vaporworx%20Fuel%20Tray,%20Mounting%20Ring,%20Corn er%20Pickups,%20and%20Wiring%20Instructions.pdf


Discussion from that other site.

http://www.pro-touring.com/showthread.php?77612-You-asked-for-you-got-it-Three-new-VaporWorx-products


Jim

[daemon2]

The frame is coming together nicely now, I will start to fab the new sheetmetal for the rockers - I have laid out the floor panels and starting layout for the tranny/driveline tunnel.

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/p1800gt%20frame%20tuck.jpg
The frame sits at the bottom of the sill and ties into the body at the A and C pillars.

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/p1800gt%20floor%20test%20fit%202.jpg
Test fit of the floor. I am also measuring out the location of the handbrake - on the P1800 its located the the left of the driver between the door and seat.

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/p1800gt%20floor%20test%20fit.jpg
Another view.

I will also replace the original brake booster and brackets - the original was huge. Some pedal and linkeage mods required.
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/p1800gt%20brake%20booster%20mod.jpg

Now that the frame is in and the body is stable again I will open up the rear sheet metal to tuck my huge rear end away :)
I'm looking forward to this part.
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/p1800gt%20rear%20pre%20body%20mods%20dca.jpg

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/p1800gt%20rear%20tuck.jpg
Also get rid of this seam.

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/p1800gt%20spot%20weld.jpg
About 1000 spot welds to go...
The tensile strength of these must be pretty high - they seem to eat drill bits.

Cheers!

[daemon2]

3/4" ground strap engine to chasis
40gph/60psi fuel pump
min 8 guage wire for fuse block power feed
speed sensor input - 17T calibration for manual
3.08 to 4.11 rear end
26 to 30 inch rear tire diameter


Did I miss anything?

[daemon2]

I had to fabricate some inner sill plates, the new frame extends into the interior 3/16" on either side.

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/dca%20p1800gt%20prim.jpg
I made these panels with a 3/16 jog and put a good coating of zinc rich primer on before welding.

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/dca%20p1800gt%20ds%20spot%20weld.jpg
This is a section of the panel going in, spot welding with MIG - I am also getting rid of the seam under the rocker panel but upside down welding sucks!

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/dca%20p1800gt%20rocker%20install%20top.jpg
looking down

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/p1800gt%20ds%20rocker%20in%20fin.jpg
And close to finished on drivers side.

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/dca%20p1800%20gt%20fuel%20module%20ring%20lg.jpg
And, still working on the fuel tank modification for the in tank pump module. This is the new pump module mounting ring.

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/dca%20p1800gt%20ss%20fuel%20module%20ring.jpg
And close up.

[daemon2]

I didn't think I would get anything done on the car this weekend but today was a productive day.

I had to build custom tapered rod bolts so I could have adjustable bump steer rod ends. Can't see the tapered rod bolts under the spacers and heim joints but it came together nicely.
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/custom%20bump%20steer%20rod%20end%20dca%20p1800gt. jpg

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/bump%20rod%20dca%20p1800gt.jpg

Also starting to tie in the rear frame section and measure out suspension - also managed to sneak an order in today :)
Drivers side

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/rear%20clip%20tie%20in%20dca%20p1800gt%20ds.jpg

and passengers side:
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/rear%20tie%20in%20dca%20p1800gt%20ps.jpg

[daemon2]

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/dca%20p1800gt%20nose%20extend%20side.jpg

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/dca%20p1800gt%20nose%20xtend%202%20w%20diag.jpg

[WSSix]

Very nice!

[daemon2]

Its coming along slowly but it's nice to see progress. My suspension parts are beginning to arrive. I am still working out spring rates because the car isn't far enough along to know the corner weights yet.

I've decided to go with the Ridetech Select series coilovers. I have envisioned a dash mounted sport button that will stiffen the shocks, increase boost through an electronic boost controller and handle a few other items for the fun drives :)

I am impressed by the quality of these and excited to get them on.

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/p1800gt%20select%20coilover.jpg

Close up:

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/p1800gt%20select%20base.jpg

I was holding out for a Volvo B8444S V8, but they are running over 5k for a well used engine. I can run an LSX376 for close to that price and not have the headaches of creating my own bellhousing, etc.

Time will tell...

[DETON8R]

I was holding out for a Volvo B8444S V8, but they are running over 5k for a well used engine. I can run an LSX376 for close to that price and not have the headaches of creating my own bellhousing, etc.

Time will tell...

I've wondered what it would take to get a Volvo V8-32 valve engine into a project, and there just isn't the support for modified engines like the LS series of engines. Complexity, cost and availability just make it too hard for anybody who has a budget. The 60 degree V8 from the Volvo block might have been a benefit for fitment between the fenders, and it would allow you to race in certain sanctioning body classes with an "all factory" car, but that really isn't my objective. It really would be "nice to have" but not for my budget. and abilities...........

Good progress, keep the photos coming!!

[daemon2]

I was very excited about the suspension so I tried to push forward with a few things I have been thinking over.

Like everything with this project so far I have to do a little more work that I had planned at the beginning. I have started a lot of fab on the front end, cutting out rust and making filler panels. I have started to plan the core support as well, I will need a much larger radiator for the V8.

This is just a few quick pics of the front with wheels, I will also start the metal around the new wheel arches to tuck these babies away without rubbing. These are .25 inch above ride height:

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/dca%20p1800gt%20front%20view.jpg

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/p1800gt%20front%20metal.jpg

The core support will be a lot of work but the new rad opening will likely be twice the size of the old one.

[WSSix]

Looking good!

[Ryguy442]

Awesome project! I love cars that are out side of the box.

I got a suggestion for you that make things alittle easyier when doing sheetmetal work. I noticed the panle clamps you are using, iv been doing sheetmetal work for 10 years, iv tried using those and I wasn't happy with them. They left a gap that was a little to wide for me, they were kinda bulky, and messing the square peg was a pain. So I just made my own out of some scap I had laying around. They were very simple to make
http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/nn252/ratrodryan/4d8059f7.jpg
http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/nn252/ratrodryan/35f64fe1.jpg

Mine used just a thin strip of sheet metal to make the gap tighter, and also they just use a piece of tig wire instead of the big square beg. This way if you can't get behind it then you can just let the wire fall out. Make fitting panels easyier because you and slide the clamp on one side of the panel and slide the panle into the other side. Anyways thought it might be a helpful tip. If you have any questions just ask! Keep up the good work

Ryan

[daemon2]

Thanks for this! - I was finding the square peg on the back of mine hard to work with.

Awesome project! I love cars that are out side of the box.

I got a suggestion for you that make things alittle easyier when doing sheetmetal work. I noticed the panle clamps you are using, iv been doing sheetmetal work for 10 years, iv tried using those and I wasn't happy with them. They left a gap that was a little to wide for me, they were kinda bulky, and messing the square peg was a pain. So I just made my own out of some scap I had laying around. They were very simple to make


Mine used just a thin strip of sheet metal to make the gap tighter, and also they just use a piece of tig wire instead of the big square beg. This way if you can't get behind it then you can just let the wire fall out. Make fitting panels easyier because you and slide the clamp on one side of the panel and slide the panle into the other side. Anyways thought it might be a helpful tip. If you have any questions just ask! Keep up the good work

Ryan

[Ryguy442]

It's no problem, I might do a thread in the body and paint forum to show how I made them. They are pretty simple I'm sure you won't have a problem figuring them out. But I made my before I bought any, I bought a few and ended up getting frustrated and threw them in the scrap pile.

Ryan

[daemon2]

Still plugging away.

I like the way the front wheels are looking but they have to come back off so I can weld in the upper coilover mounts and work on the core support.

Just a few more pics with them on:
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/dca%20p1800gt%20front%20wheel%20rear%20forward.jpg

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/dca%20p1800gt%20front%20wheelside%20on.jpg

:)

This weekend was eaten up by a bit of spring cleaning. I did get the drivers side floor panel in. But that's all for this weekend...

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/dca%20p1800gt%20front%20ds%20floor%202.jpg

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/dca%20p1800gt%20front%20ds%20floor.jpg

[daemon2]

I'm working in the back of the car now, the frame is complete front to rear and I have to add some cross braces in a few places.
I have been looking for a good place for the Optima battery and tray. The fuel tank is not centred so I think passenger side rear will be good for balance.

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/dca%20p1800gt%20battery%20test%20fit2.jpg

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/p1800gt%20batt%20test%20fit.jpg

I have started fabricating the new wheel tubs, all the old material I don't need is gone now.
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/dca%20p1800gt%20pre%20fender.jpg

Still lots of work on the passenger wheel well
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/dca%20p1800gt%20frame%20tie%20in.jpg

and bringing the body back together with the frame.
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/dca%20p1800gt%20rear%20spots.jpg

[daemon2]

I had a few good hours on the car today, I have been putting together my own rear tubs to fit the extra rubber in on the back. Started by removing the rear quarter to open everything up:

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/dca%20p1800gt%20rear%20q%20open.jpg

And have a good start on the new tubs, I had a little trouble getting the radius of the two halves to line up but with some patience they are starting to come together nicely.

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/dca%20p1800gt%20mini%20tub.jpg

Here's a cool 'cutaway' view of the rear of a P1800 - with some new components. Rear brakes are 13" Wilwood, calipers aren't in yet.

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/dca%20p1800gt%20rear%20trunk%20q%20open.jpg

I set the suspension up and put it through its travel to get an idea of required clearance. This is about 1 inch above ride height.

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/dca%20p1800gt%20rear%20wheel%201%20above%20ride%20 height.jpg

New brackets for the tub and deck support.

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/dca%20p1800gt%20rear%20braket%20fab.jpg

And the clean radius for the new wheels

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/dca%20p1800gt%20tub%20prep%20rear%20q.jpg

I have some work left to do on the tubs and opening the wheel arch around the front of the rear wheel.

Today was a good day.

[krptonite]

i am really wanting one of these cars now! what vette irs is it? dana 36 from auto or a 44 from the standard trans?

[daemon2]

i am really wanting one of these cars now! what vette irs is it? dana 36 from auto or a 44 from the standard trans?

I have a C4 dana 36 and 44, I think I will be using the 44 with 3.55 gears and 6 speed manual. That picture shows the 36.

[daemon2]

i have a new bead roller and ran my first bead today, nice tool!

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/dca%20p1800gt%20bead%20roll%20one.jpg

This is wheel tubs continued...

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/dca%20p1800gt%20tub%20fab%20pre%20backing.jpg

So far they are looking pretty good, I have it just resting on a block in this image so I can cut out the template for the rear plate.

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/dca%20p18700gt%20ds%20tub%20tempate%20b%20plate.jp g

Its looking pretty mean in this shot...I want to drive this thing already!

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/dca%20p1800gt%20tub%20test%20fit%20rearward.jpg

[daemon2]

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/dca%20p1800gt%20rear%20quarter%20stretch.jpg

Final fit of the wheel wells before putting the sheet metal on the inside of the well and reshaping the rear quarters.

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/dca%20p1800gt%20rear.jpg

From the nose of the car looking reward showing the p1800 body lines and the width of the new rear end tubs - from one of the cad drawings I posted previously it shows the increased wheel width from above, looks like we were pretty close:

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/cad%20layout%20p1800gt.jpg

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/dca%20p1800gt%20frame%20reenforce.jpg

The last of the frame bracing is now complete, now I can complete the floor and start planning for epoxy primer.

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/dca%20p1800gt%20nose%20job.jpg

I have moved the front sheet metal out and have started reworking the core support for the new radiator and frame. I did a little work on the sheet metal extensions. The damaged bondo encrusted section will be redone as well, its wrinkled up pretty good in there on the front.

[DETON8R]

Nice shots extending the nose of the P1800. :yes: Are you planning to rework the lights too? Have you decided what they will look like?

Also, like the CAD drawings of the car showing the new/old track width. I saw a 1964 AC Cobra a few weeks ago, which was a really an AC Ace with a 289 and a 4 speed mod, with a very few changes and the style of these early 1960's European sports cars really was a wider front and narrower rear, with a wider front track width than the rear.

What is your front and rear tire track widths? And Hub to hub widths?

[daemon2]

If you look just past the nose on that last image you may notice some work starting on the lights, there was a lot of rust and patch work behind bondo in there so I will be redoing them.
I have some parts for the lights just haven't started with them yet, I have to find someone who can do custom lenses for me. I will post images when I get to that work.
Stock P1800: front and rear track width 51.8", P1800 body with is 66.93" at the widest point on the body. The widest point is the middle across the doors and it tapers in front and rear.
New:
Rear track: 60.5"
Front track: 54.5"

Rear hub to hub: 62.5
Front hub to hub: 58.5

Total width rear: 68.0"
Total width front: 64.2"


Nice shots extending the nose of the P1800. :yes: Are you planning to rework the lights too? Have you decided what they will look like?

Also, like the CAD drawings of the car showing the new/old track width. I saw a 1964 AC Cobra a few weeks ago, which was a really an AC Ace with a 289 and a 4 speed mod, with a very few changes and the style of these early 1960's European sports cars really was a wider front and narrower rear, with a wider front track width than the rear.

What is your front and rear tire track widths? And Hub to hub widths?

[DETON8R]

Did you check out http://www.sickhids.com/ for custom lights?

Also, I've seen some other custom cars that used other cars light assemblies, I'm thinking that I might use Mini Cooper lights.
http://www.carid.com/2002-mini-cooper-headlights/

Unfortunately there aren't many modern cars that look like they will work with minimum modifications for a custom P1800. I've ben looking, the late model/retro Thunderbird lights might work too, but they would be way more work that the Mini lights. The Mini light assemblies just look like the might be a bit big.

I'm still working my tail lights for my 1969 Camaro. I have billet lenses, and I just can't spend >$200 for progressive tail lights. I found a company that sells tons of LED's to the trucking industry, and I purchased a set of progressive controllers and a few other pieces for the custom light's that I'm going to use from them. Should be able to make my own tail lights for just over $100.:unibrow:
http://www.rodworx.com/
http://www.uatparts.com/

These tend to focus on LEDs, running lights and tail lights, not HID's for head lights. I have not looked around too much for custom HID's yet, as I'm using the standard round headlights for the Camaro, so I don't have to look around too hard yet. I've looked around at the Good Guys shows and a few other shows and not much is available in those venues for custom applications.

[daemon2]

Thanks for the tips - I have my HID internals already, I need to start working on the custom housing. There are a few companies out there that retrofit an existing housing with HID but my issue is I need a custom housing :rolleyes:
I looked at different head light assemblies available off the shelf but nothing was close enough to what I had in mind. One of my cars is a Mini Cooper S, I have seen these lights used in a few different hot rods but just don't want something that recognizable on this car, the two beside each other in the garage would give it all away.
I may have something to post on the lights in the next few weeks, I'm still focused on the body...

Any pics on custom headlight housings?

[daemon2]

I have been working on the headlight layout, testing a few ideas and started a final mock up for 3-d rendering. The lights are Xenon, HID and LED, the finish will be a mix of chrome and carbon fiber.
It may be hard to visualize but this arrangement looks promising when I put paper mockups of the parts with the car. Yes - makin' **** up as I go here - like I said, never done this before...

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/DCA%20P1800GT%20Headlight%20Render%20front.jpg

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/DCA%20P1800GT%20Headlight%20Render.jpg

[WSSix]

Looks interesting. While the five light arc be LED turn signals? I love the lights on Audis and this reminded me of those.

[daemon2]

The five light arc is actually Hella LEDayFlex DRL - I think thats exactly what they run on the Audis. The LED turn signals are the little donut with colored plastic extensions.
Its cool the rendering reminded you of the audi.:thumbsup:

Looks interesting. While the five light arc be LED turn signals? I love the lights on Audis and this reminded me of those.

[daemon2]

I have been away enjoying some time off, back to work soon and I put in a little time on the GT.

Drivers side floor is in, and I had to fabricate some panels to close out the inside of the front frame at the back of the wheel well.

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/dca%20p1800gt%20pass%20floor%20f.jpg

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/dca%20p1800gt%20front%20rocker%20close%20out%202.j pg

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/dca%20p1800gt%20front%20rocker%20close%20out.jpg

These are a few parts I have fabricated to close out the front frame pocket, more pics when they are trimmed and installed.

And, work has started on electrical and electronics. There's quite a bit of planning involved in the wiring so I am doing a bit of work with the lights.

Rendering:
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/DCA%20P1800GT%20Headlight%20Render%20front.jpg

Electronics layout:
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/dca%20p1800gt%20head%20light%20electric%20layout.j pg

And the start of the tails, first with the proper sized lights:

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/dca%20p1800gt%20tail%20layout%20prop%20size.jpg

And with incorrect size backup light but showing the correct housing:

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/dca%20p1800gt%20rear%20tail%20prop%20cover.jpg

For both lights they will be in a custom housing with lenses. I am also working on the electrically adjustable/heated seats but no images of that yet.

[WSSix]

Those lights are going to be awesome! I really like how much attention is being given to lighting throughout the auto industry. Not just with function but with aesthetics as well.

Where are you sourcing your lights from? I can never seem to find the OEM quality and brightness LEDs.

[daemon2]

Those lights are going to be awesome! I really like how much attention is being given to lighting throughout the auto industry. Not just with function but with aesthetics as well.

Where are you sourcing your lights from? I can never seem to find the OEM quality and brightness LEDs.


Which ones are you looking for? I have used a few different suppliers, I have an idea of what parts I want and as I come across them I pick them up. I have not come across a single source for components.

[daemon2]

I was planning on putting the rear floor pans in today, welded up a few pieces on the interior and thought I'd better fit the seats in before the floor gets finished. I set the seat all full height and all the way back so I know I have clearance later.

Before, some time ago...:
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/int%201.JPG

Test fit:
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/DCA%20P1800%20GT%20seat%20test%20fit%20side%20view .jpg

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/dca%20P1800GT%20front%20seat%20test%20fit%20side.j pg

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/DCA%20P1800%20GT%20seat%20test%20fit%20align%20fro nt.jpg

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/DCA%20P1800%20GT%20front%20seat%20test%20fit%20hea d%20clx.jpg

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/dca%20P1800%20GT%20front%20seat%20test%20fit.jpg

This isn't the final upholstery, it will be redone later when we get to that point. I still have not decided on colors but it won't be grey.

[WSSix]

Which ones are you looking for? I have used a few different suppliers, I have an idea of what parts I want and as I come across them I pick them up. I have not come across a single source for components.

Well, I guess the turn signal Hella LEDs and the turn signal ring. I was hoping you had found a single source. My problem is I want to be able to make my own turn signals or marker lights but I can't find the really bright square LEDs that OEM uses anywhere.

Thanks

[daemon2]

Well, I guess the turn signal Hella LEDs and the turn signal ring. I was hoping you had found a single source. My problem is I want to be able to make my own turn signals or marker lights but I can't find the really bright square LEDs that OEM uses anywhere.

Thanks

The Hella LEDay line is available at Tire Rack dot com or direct from Hella, for most other LEDs try super bright led dot com. They have the square ones.

[daemon2]

Pretty much sums up the weekend.

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/DCA%20P1800GT%20Seat%20Heater.jpg

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/DCA%20P1800%20GT%20sums%20up%20weeken.jpg

[daemon2]

Put in a few hours installing front suspension and brakes to get final clearance checks and plan out hard line installation. Need a break from wiring diagrams.

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/DCA%20P1800GT%20brake%20and%20susp%20f.jpg

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/DCA%20P1800GT%20front%20brake%206pot.jpg

Everything is coming together nicely :)

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/DCA%20P1800GT%20front%20clearance%20check.jpg

[WSSix]

I like that wheel spinning shot. Very cool.

[daemon2]

Made a little progress on the fuel system today, the stock P1800 has a rubber stopper that the filler door held onto a filler pipe. It was bad for leaking fumes so I went with a new filler neck and gas cap - this cap has a push through filler so it does not have to be removed to fill the tank.

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800%20GT%20fuel%20filler%201.jpg

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800GT%20fuel%20filler%203.jpg

And I've completed the in tank EFI mod - this was a bit of work but its almost there. I will need to prep and paint the tank. I also went with an integrated fuel level sending unit that will put an end to the jumping fuel guage I had before.

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/DCA%20P1800GT%20In%20tank%20EFI%20Mod%201.jpg

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800GT%20In%20tank%20EFI%20Mod%202.jpg

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800GT%20In%20tank%20EFI%20Mod%203.jpg

This is the first P1800 tank to be modified for an in tank pump that I am aware of. It's missing the locking ring in this image, I still want to add in a few sumps just past the baffles inside the tank.

[daemon2]

My hunt for a B8444S is proving discouraging. I understand Volvo takes them all back and rebuilds them, I have been told they are not manufacturing new ones?

The dealership wants over 10k for a new engine long block only. There are a few used models on ebay but its a 6k gamble.

No one has a Noble M600 tt for sale that I can find....unfortunately.

Hmmmm. If only there were a reliable V8 out there with after market support.


LS it is.;)

[WSSix]

nice! You could always go with an aluminum 5.3 to save money. They make great power.

I'm not up on Volvo engine coding but is the turbo 5 cylinder any good? I'm betting it's ridiculous cost wise to build it even if it is a good engine.

[daemon2]

Yes, the turbo 5's are good.
The b8444s is a 4.4l V8 designed by Yamaha for Volvo. It's the largest Volvo engine. Noble uses the same 4.4l design from Yamaha but they upgrade internals and add twin turbos for a few extra ponies in the M600.

I had my heart set on a purring V8, never owned anything larger than a 4.

[daemon2]

I didn't like the finish on my gas cap and wanted to test the hydro dipping image transfer process on something small. This process can be purchased in home diy kits now.
Prep - base coat applied, good timer, hot water, activator and film.
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800GT%20hydro%20dip%20test%203.jpg

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800GT%20hydro%20dip%20test%202.jpg

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800GT%20hydro%20dip%20test%201.jpg

And finished product.
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800GT%20hydro%20dip%20test%204.jpg

Much better but, I will have my other pieces professionally done.

[WSSix]

Looks good. I had no idea there was a DIY kit.

[daemon2]

I think this one came from my dip kit dot com

maybe a vendor on the site sells them as well.

Looks good. I had no idea there was a DIY kit.

[gnx7]

THis is going to be a crazy ride. Very impressed with ALL the fab work and engineering going into this "home built" project.

If you run a 5spd you will save probably 65lbs+ over a 6 manual transmission.
ie TKO600 vs T56 Magnum. The 5spd is also a little slimmer than the latter. I'm not sure how crazy you are going with the weight savings; however you could also run a small diameter clutch and lightweight flywheel shave an easy 20lbs+ there. If you go too wild with the weight of the clutch/pp/flywheel setup it could affect driveability a bit.... but it'll rev like crazy :lol:

[daemon2]

^ Thanks for the tips!

I am working on the rear quarter panels now, I have to fabricate the arches and wrap the metal back onto the body. It actually looks like its going to work :) You should see the rear end (from the back) on this thing now!

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/DCA%20P1800GT%20rear%20q%20rough%20in.jpg

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800GT%20rear%20quarter%20rough%20in%20side .jpg

The opening at the top of the rear quarter, near the divers door makes a perfect place for a scoop.

[daemon2]

I am beating away on flares, rough work is coming out now but I'm not sure if its heading in the right direction.

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800GT%20raw%20flare%201.jpg

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800GT%20raw%20flare%202.jpg

I took a break from this to see if an engine would actually fit. So far the measurements are looking good. These are close to scale

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/Media/DCA%20P1800%20GT%20LS3%20T56%20fit%20diag.jpg

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800GT%20Body%20Eng%20Trans%20Render.jpg

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/Media/DCA%20P1800%20GT%20Engine%20w%20FR.jpg

What do you think of the work on the flares?

[WSSix]

Hard to tell with the close up pictures. Only thing I would be careful of is to make sure they don't end up looking like the stuck factory flares on 4x4 trucks. I personally prefer when the flare flows with the fender of widened fenders.

[daemon2]

I am thinking I will build new rear quarter panels. I don't like the flares.

There's a lot of rust and patch work in the current ones anyway...

Need 3 more hours in a day :)

Or I stop playing with pictures on the computer and get some work done...
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800GT%20old%20with%20new.jpg

[daemon2]

September is always too busy - no time for toys, today I had a few hours to look at the GT again.

Some time ago I made these little close out panels to wrap the frame rails and tie into the sill:
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/dca%20p1800gt%20front%20rocker%20close%20out%202.j pg

I finally got them in - this image is taken from under the front of the car looking at the floor near the drivers feet:

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800GT%20frame%20n%20sill%20connector.jpg

Now the front floor, frame and bodywork are all closed in, I have a piece the trim in there still but it came together pretty well.

I mounted my new mirrors:

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800GT%2069%20mirror.jpg

And started to work out the front wheel openings:
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800GT%20front%20fender.jpg

[krptonite]

its great to see some progress again, i am still looking for one myself, have even been thinking of doing the wagon version too, did you decide on a motor yet? i have been reading a lot on the t5 motor but it may be hard to sort wiring and rwd trans for it, it will more than likely be an ls1 or derivative as they make great power and performance parts are abundant, i have an ls6 in my nova and its great! good luck with the build:thumbsup:

[daemon2]

its great to see some progress again, i am still looking for one myself, have even been thinking of doing the wagon version too, did you decide on a motor yet? i have been reading a lot on the t5 motor but it may be hard to sort wiring and rwd trans for it, it will more than likely be an ls1 or derivative as they make great power and performance parts are abundant, i have an ls6 in my nova and its great! good luck with the build:thumbsup:

I was planning on ordering an ls3 at Christmas - something came up and it may have to wait. The layouts I have done are based on the LS engine, fuel pump is set up for LS and everything just seems to line up so nicely for one. A V8 is total overkill but...

I like turbo's and considered a T5, but the work would be in making a FWD or AWD engine run a RWD transmission in inline layout rather than transverse has to be considered. It can and has been done.

One very popular version what at Sema - very nice execution!
http://stadium.weblogsinc.com/autoblog/hirezpics/vox_amazon_04.jpg

Let me know when you start yours!

[krptonite]

oh i will, there will be build pics too! these will be like 69 camaros soon! lol, my nova is up for sale but nearly wrote it off today!! on the highway at 130km/h when the steering wheel started wobbling like crazy then a grinding of aluminum sound! managed to get it pulled over across 3 lanes in rush hour, i have a set of (old) 3 piece racing wheels and 12 of the 36 rim bolts had sheared and the wheel came apart over 10"or so in length like a buckle and was hitting the grease nipple of the lower balljoint, scared the crap outta me and these wheels will be scrapped, which means delaying the sale to get new wheels to sell the car, no way i could sell it knowing what could happen, ! all the bolts in all wheels were replaced last year after i found a few sheared off but i cant trust them anymore, if a few more had gone the whole wheel would of fell apart and its scary to think of the consequences!!

[daemon2]

scary **** - what kind of wheels?
oh i will, there will be build pics too! these will be like 69 camaros soon! lol, my nova is up for sale but nearly wrote it off today!! on the highway at 130km/h when the steering wheel started wobbling like crazy then a grinding of aluminum sound! managed to get it pulled over across 3 lanes in rush hour, i have a set of (old) 3 piece racing wheels and 12 of the 36 rim bolts had sheared and the wheel came apart over 10"or so in length like a buckle and was hitting the grease nipple of the lower balljoint, scared the crap outta me and these wheels will be scrapped, which means delaying the sale to get new wheels to sell the car, no way i could sell it knowing what could happen, ! all the bolts in all wheels were replaced last year after i found a few sheared off but i cant trust them anymore, if a few more had gone the whole wheel would of fell apart and its scary to think of the consequences!!

[krptonite]

they were old replicas of gt40 wheels, still dont know whats causing the new bolts to break though?

[daemon2]

Are they the aluminum or grade 8 bolts?

they were old replicas of gt40 wheels, still dont know whats causing the new bolts to break though?

[krptonite]

they are either 8.8 or 10.9 grade metric 6mm

[daemon2]

6x1.0 bolts in grade 10.9 or 12.9 then the torque should be 10-12 ft/lbs

you may want to verify torque values if new bolts are continuing to shear

they are either 8.8 or 10.9 grade metric 6mm

[krptonite]

thanks for the info, i will check the torque as i am sure it will be more than that! but there is a gasket between the parts and you need to pull on the bolt to get it to close the gap, and i'm sure 10-12 ft/lb wont do that, i will go check later,

[daemon2]

Here is a good write up, in the example they use 15ft lb on M6 hardware. http://www.stanceworks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=26614

Most 3-piece wheels are sealed with silicone, so your set up may be different.

This is what mine look like:
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/COR/cor-3-piece-construction.jpg

[krptonite]

that info is great thanks! now i will stop hijacking this great thread!:thumbsup:

[daemon2]

I've been on a bit of a break, doing what I can to research engines and forced induction. After a few weeks deliberating I picked up an iron block 5.3l engine. I did this because I am learning on this project, have never opened an engine before and decided a turbo project would be the most fun and best opportunity for me.
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800%20GT%20engine%20clx%20test%20fit.jpg

The 5.3l is very common here so if I happen to make an explosive error another won't be hard to find. I got my hands on a very good one and it fits!

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800%20GT%20front%20acc%20drive%20clearance .jpg

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800%20GT%20steering%20shaft%20clx.jpg
Steering shaft clearance

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800%20GT%20oil%20pan%20clearance.jpg

I am trying to keep the weight behind the front axle so I can attempt to maintain decent balance front to rear.

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800%20GT%20header%20turbo%20clx.jpg

The turbo's are going to be tricky to squeeze in there, but I've got a few ideas.

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800%20GT%20header%20test%20fit.jpg

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800%20GT%20engine%20degree%20check.jpg

The alternator has to move, I have to find an accessory drive that will allow me to keep A/C and move the alternator low.

:D

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/rotating%20assembly.jpg

[Iamtheonlyreal1]

Wow, the motor looks pretty high? I have the LS in my P1800 build, and it is actually lower than the original B18 4cylinder, and the factory LS oil pan is still above the body rockers. Do you have it that high for a reason?

[daemon2]

high in relation to the body, maybe,
high off the crossmember no,
high in terms of centre of gravity, nope...

I have changed more than just the engine, keep stopping by for updates!


Wow, the motor looks pretty high? I have the LS in my P1800 build, and it is actually lower than the original B18 4cylinder, and the factory LS oil pan is still above the body rockers. Do you have it that high for a reason?

[krptonite]

that will be tight with turbos! twin or single? i think you need the fbody set up as that puts the alternater down low and the ac is low on pass side, are you running the f body oilpan too?

[daemon2]

two turbo's, I have a few diagrams of the front accessory drives to measure it out to see what will fit; thanks for the tip on the fbody setup!
and yes I will be running the f-body oil pan.

I have some other work to do on the engine, more pics when I can.:thumbsup:

that will be tight with turbos! twin or single? i think you need the fbody set up as that puts the alternater down low and the ac is low on pass side, are you running the f body oilpan too?

[daemon2]

lots of engine work right now and still stretching the body, its taking a bit of time but I want to make sure it flows nicely when its all finished.

This is before modifying the original panel:
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/DCA%20P1800GT%20rear%20q%20rough%20in.jpg

and first attempt at the arches:
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800GT%20raw%20flare%202.jpg

And now... Top of the rear quarter looking toward the back of the car with rough alignment:
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800GT%20DS%20Wing.jpg

The transition is starting to look better:
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800GT%20DS%20view.jpg

And the wheel clearance, wheels are about 2" below ride height in this image.
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800GT%20DS%20quarter.jpg

I am waiting for parts so I can put some time in over the holidays.

One more :)
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800GT%20Rear%20Transitions.jpg

Thanks for looking!

[krptonite]

looking good!

[daemon2]

T56 6 speed from a CTS-V
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800%20GT%20driveline.jpg

I have a few options for drive shafts but for now I have converted the 3 spline output shaft to a 1350 flange yoke.
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800%20GT%20T56%201350%20coupler.jpg

Showing half of the trans tunnel installed for clearance
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800%20GT%20T56%20test%20fit.jpg

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800GT%20trans%20clx.jpg

Happy Happy, but its feeling like Turbo Time
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800%20GT%20B8534T2.jpg

[Royalworks]

Ugh...Makes me want to work on my P1800. I finally got my wheels in the rear mounted. I'm jealous of these posts. Looking Good!

[Royalworks]

Just a tip. When i do metal fab and Im building something pretty much from scratch I'll use 1/8 or so metal round rod. I can bend it easily and it can show you the lines without building the entire panel and deciding it doesn't look good or you just wanted it a bit different. Plus you can tack weld your sheet metal right to it. You can build a whole panel this way. I know there are different ways to do it but I use this method.

[daemon2]

Thanks for the tip - I will give it a try!
Just a tip. When i do metal fab and Im building something pretty much from scratch I'll use 1/8 or so metal round rod. I can bend it easily and it can show you the lines without building the entire panel and deciding it doesn't look good or you just wanted it a bit different. Plus you can tack weld your sheet metal right to it. You can build a whole panel this way. I know there are different ways to do it but I use this method.

[daemon2]

I noticed that little brown P1800 in the background of one of your build updates. Thanks for the compliment.
Ugh...Makes me want to work on my P1800. I finally got my wheels in the rear mounted. I'm jealous of these posts. Looking Good!

[Royalworks]

Yeah, its definitely in the background. I wanna just bust out the metal fab on it just so I can drive it. Lowering springs and metal work. Done. I doubt I will have the time to do what I really wanna do to it. For now I live vicariously through your build.

[daemon2]

This isn't a big update but one I'm a bit proud of.
The Corvette front tie rod ends are difficult to source, I wanted to go with an adjustable bump steer rod end and have to connect to the flaming river rack. A lot of people suggested reeming the bore out with a 5/8 bit and running a bolt through but I decided to go the hard way.

This is a GM tie rod end, one of the adjustable bump steer ends with the incorrect taper.
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/DCA%20P1800%20GT%20C4%20bump%20steer.jpg

I made a sample for test fitment
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800GT%20steering%20tie%20rod%20end%20sampl e.jpg

These are the two new rod ends
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800GT%20steering%20tie%20rod%20end%20cut.j pg

And on the car but needs to be tightened in and adjusted.
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800GT%20steering%20tie%20rod%20end%20fin.j pg

This was fun but if I had to charge an hourly rate for the time they were friggin expensive!

[Royalworks]

Yes. Very nice piece. Now find someone to make them and sell them.

[Iamtheonlyreal1]

Yes. Very nice piece. Now find someone to make them and sell them.

They actually sell those for alot of applications, but I have a machine shop making ours specifically for our front ends, because it was more economic than purchasing kits.. I am using the QA1 Heim Joint as our tie rod end, which attaches directly to the rack and pinion..

[daemon2]

I started some engine work today to check everything and upgrade a few parts. The stock components are in very good shape and I probably could have gotten away with boosting this thing without any upgrades.

Stock head, stock roller lifters and pushrods
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800%20GT%20head%20disassembly.jpg

This is a close up of the stock roller lifters vs. the LS7 rollers
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800%20GT%20LS7%20lifters%20vs%205_3.jpg

Some new parts, a few more to come.
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800%20GT%20new%20valvetrain%20comp.jpg

COMP billet double roller timing set
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800%20GT%20dual%20chain.jpg

and new full roller 1.7 lifters
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800%20GT%20full%20roll%20lifters.jpg

Maybe Santa will bring the cam.

[Royalworks]

I hope you plan on boosting this car i hope you will be using ARP bolts, forged pistons and rods. Just cheap insurance. Overbuild it for reliability. Nothing worse than finishing a car then having to pull it back out to fix it again. We had two stock LS engines at our last shop that were boosted and they both popped on 8lbs. I don't know who tuned them but still. From what I have learned about factory boosted cars is they definably don't skimp on beefy. I would build a car for 20lbs and drive on 12lbs.

[Royalworks]

Im just really excited to see this thing done.

[daemon2]

Boost is in the plan, but this is where it gets complicated.
Most forged pistons also increase C.R. leading to more work, then do I bore it to a 347, 376...The stock 325 has a boost friendly low CR.
What internals failed on the LS engines you mention that popped?
Pistons or con rods?

I hope you plan on boosting this car i hope you will be using ARP bolts, forged pistons and rods. Just cheap insurance. Overbuild it for reliability. Nothing worse than finishing a car then having to pull it back out to fix it again. We had two stock LS engines at our last shop that were boosted and they both popped on 8lbs. I don't know who tuned them but still. From what I have learned about factory boosted cars is they definably don't skimp on beefy. I would build a car for 20lbs and drive on 12lbs.

[Royalworks]

Pistons. One broke a ring land. The other melted the top on an edge. Most factory turboed cars have piston oil coolers. You can install them on just about any car. Some people don't like using them because the decrease HP which I think is dumb. Its about 8-10hp difference. I started on Honda's way back when and this was a must on a high hp build. TheOldOne.com has some amazing building tips that you can apply to just about any build. I thought you could get stock compression pistons?

[Royalworks]

If I were to build a boosted engine again I would probably spend my money on cooling things. Oil cooler, piston squirters, big radiator, high flow water pump. Things like that. Heat is the worst enemy. And if your doing any sort of burnout and screwing around with stock stuff its gonna get hot and pop. That's what happened to one of those engines.

And just because I love hondas and amazingly built engines Ill show you this.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NhghRPqLhP8

[daemon2]

100k on the engine, tear down pics:
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800%20GT%20piston.jpg

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800%20GT%20Pass%20cyl%20head.jpg

And, more slow work on the body, I keep rolling panels, test fit, pull it off, roll it, test fit...
the good news is it seems to be improving with each round:

Framed rear q - thanks for the tip Royalworks:
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800%20GT%20skeleton.jpg

panelling:
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800%20GT%20rear%20framed.jpg

This is approximate ride height:
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800%20GT%20again.jpg

[Royalworks]

How do you like using the round stock?

[daemon2]

love it, it really helped to show the lines and where the panel needed to stretch or shrink.
excellent tip thanks:thumbsup:

[daemon2]

Its been a while since I have posted updates. I still have my time stuck in the engine. A few images follow but I've done Wiseco forged pistons, H beam rods, top secret cam :), dual valve springs, dual chain timing set, ARP fasteners, f-body oil pan, but I am still waiting on a few parts to wrap this thing up. oil pump, felpro gaskets and a new timing cover are on thier way.

Updates:
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800%20GT%20Cam%20in.jpg

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800%20GT%20Cam%20install.jpg

Roller lifter oil soak:
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800%20GT%20roller%20lifters.jpg

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800%20GT%20lifter%20oil%20soak.jpg

This was a late night project:
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800%20GT%20dual%20valve%20springs.jpg

Degreeing the new cam:
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800%20GT%20degree%20cam.jpg

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800%20GT%20050.jpg
I may sell the degree kit now but not sure.

New motor mounts, part one:
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800%20GT%20motor%20mount.jpg

Turbo oil feed fitting on the new f-body pan:
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800%20GT%20turbo%20oil%20feed.jpg

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800%20GT%20bkgnd.jpg

Thats about it for now, things seem to be going slow but its important to get the details in the engine correct.

Thanks for looking.

[Royalworks]

Sick...

[daemon2]

I forgot to post this image with my last update. This is the first engine I have ever worked on and I've been enjoying it. There's a lot of components though and its taking away from time on the body.
I had done some searching to find out how to properly install viton valve stem seals, many forums people recommend using a socket and tapping them down until it "sounds right". I called COMP they said no-one had asked them before. So after feeling a little dumb and searching some more I cam across this valve stem seal installation tool. $3.
I had initially done the "use a socket and tap until it sounds right". I took everything apart again and did it over with this tool. After using it I don't think its possible to install valve stem seals correctly with a socket. None of them were down far enough and they were all different.
This tool is cheap and would save a lot of headaches if your newly rebuilt or built engine ended up burning oil.
I hope someone comes across this if they are searching, maybe I'm the only one that didn't know :)
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800%20GT%20valve%20stem%20seal%20installer .jpg

[Royalworks]

I didn't know about the valve stem tool either. Btw I was looking at your wheels in the back ground and I also went with a wheel that doesn't have a lip. I think lips are kinda get used to much. Yes they look awesome when they are huge but I knew I wouldn't be able to put a massive 5'' lip on my wheels. I also wanted a light wheel. I went with the TSW Nurburgring wheels. I actually like yours better.

[daemon2]

I have not had time to update the thread but have a few things moving along, here are a few pics:

The view from the side mirror:
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800%20GT%20rear%20view.jpg

And interior:
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800%20GT%20interior.jpg

And the really fun stuff is starting to come together, chasing the threads before ARP went in
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800GT%20thread%20chase.jpg

Full rollers
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800GT%20roller%20rockers.jpg

:)
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800%20GT%20intake%20assembly.jpg

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800GT%20intake%20mock%20up.jpg

Its starting to look nice, just need a firewall now!
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800GT%20Engine%20wrap.jpg

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800%20GT%20down%20eng%20%20bay.jpg

This is me tig welding stainless for headers
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800%20GT%20TIG%20Stainless.jpg

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800%20GT%20snout.jpg

still so much to do.

[Royalworks]

That engine looks right at home in there. Man I need to hire more people so I can just work on my car!

[daemon2]

Thanks - the engine is starting to come together, finally!

I started Jan 6, 2012 and have 225 hours of garage time into this and at least that many hours left I think. No idea what that time would cost in a shop or how the time compares to someone with experience.

c'mon man, you can squeeze yours in:)

That engine looks right at home in there. Man I need to hire more people so I can just work on my car!

[Royalworks]

Four restos and two guys in a shop make it tough to justify building my car. But I did just hire someone else so we will see how it goes. Plus I have that widebody 280Z for my buddy that I wish I never started. It was suppose to be just a quick paint job and easy mods on it. But you know anybody on here and their imagination runs wild...

[Royalworks]

Did you have a rendering done for this car?

[daemon2]

Did you have a rendering done for this car?

Yup, this is the rendering from Mascoll Designs. I changed plans on the arches after seeing how wide the new suspension is in the rear and taking my first shot at the arches.
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/Volvo_Render_Mascoll_Designs_SM.jpg

This is draft from that rendering:
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/teaser%201.jpg

[E.rodz]

looking good the rendering is awesome! nice job on the out of the box build! keep the updates coming.:thumbsup:

[INTMD8]

Nice job on everything! The rendering looks awesome.

Have there been any dyno tests with that intake yet? After looking at the lower intake (dual 4bbl) I had the impression it would be lucky to make as much power as a stock LS1 unit.

[daemon2]

Nice job on everything! The rendering looks awesome.

Have there been any dyno tests with that intake yet? After looking at the lower intake (dual 4bbl) I had the impression it would be lucky to make as much power as a stock LS1 unit.

The Holley mid rise dual quad was tested by Super Chevy on their 5.3l build, I can't find any dyno numbers on the injected version. I had an article on the same intake I have in on the engine now, it came in with similar performance as the LS1 intake and they suggest it's better suited for turbo or supercharged applications.

I also have an LS6 intake but I love the look of this thing. Maybe I will be the first to dyno it in turbocharged form.

This mid rise was released not too long ago as well.

This is from the release:
"Bowling Green, KY--Holley is proud to introduce the newest product in their modular intake Manifold line

Introducing the Holley cast aluminum Modular Mid-Rise™ Intake System. The Modular Mid-Rise intake utilizes the popular Holley LS1/LS2/LS6 cathedral port Mid-Rise 2 x 4 intake Manifold along with a purpose built plenum base Adapter and a Holley 92MM EFI plenum top which converts it into a Mid-Rise EFI intake manifold. With a max overall height of only 10.44”, the Mid-Rise Manifold is an excellent choice for street and performance street/strip applications with a powerband from 1,500-6,500 RPM and limited hood clearance. It’s perfect for a blow-thru or turbocharged application.

Being part of the Holley modular intake line means that this intake is not only available as a complete kit with intake, adapter, 92MM top and fuel rails, but all parts can also be purchased separately for a custom intake build. The plenum Adapter (PN 300-231) will accept all of the popular Holley Hi-Ram plenum tops as a foundation for custom induction systems."

I am hoping it helps retain some of the low/mid end torque and I haven't really built a rev happy engine so the compromise should work out.

Does anyone else have one of these?

[daemon2]

I have been working on a number of things on the car and have not had a lot of time for updates here.
Here are a few pics I was able to snap while working:

Doing the Walbro fuel pick ups and in tank submersed lines.
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800%20GT%20fuel%20sump%20lines.jpg

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800%20GT%20Walborough.jpg

I decided to go with a GM clutch for now, it arrived on the weekend but was damaged in shipping. I am working on getting a replacement:
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800%20GT%20LS7%20clutch.jpg

Throttle Body is on and I am fabbing a throttle cable mount:
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800%20GT%20TB.jpg

I have also started on a number of close out panels, the firewall and core support. This is the core support side brackets:
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800%20GT%20core%20support%20fab.jpg

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800%20GT%20core%20support%20side.jpg

I am also laying out the position of the intercoolers and will finalize the core support once I have fit it all together. More pics to come...

Here is a test panel for the firewall, I am working out templates in paper, and trying to simplify the entire thing.
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800%20GT%20firewall%20test%20panel.jpg

And finally, going with AN fittings for the steam ports on the heads
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800%20GT%20ARP.jpg

[daemon2]

Still making panels, and working on the car when I can. Here are a few new shots:
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800GT%20close%20in%20panel.jpg

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800GT%20Trans%20tunnel%20fwall.jpg

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800%20GT%20trans%20tunnel%202.jpg
Still have to clean up the welds, I am working on a shifter and finalizing clearances.

And the big cut...I am sure everyone has seen the VOXX P1800, I have to thank mr.voxx for this idea! I have a shop making the glass now after we made a test slug. I have a few sill plates to finish up but I'm happy.
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800%20GT%20cabin%202.jpg

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800%20GT%20fore.jpg
I had a few people ask about my choice in seats when I first picked them up. They are from a convertible and have additional internal structure for rollover protection. I have removed some of the old structure in the roof and don't have plans for a roll bar so the seat provides a little extra protection.

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800GT%20side.jpg

Thank you Mr. Voxx :)
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/99865430/P1800%20glass.jpg

[Royalworks]

That glass is going to be sick. The whole car is gonna be awesome!

[66fury]

i am drooling !! i am a volvo owner and if i build another car ,an 1800 just like voxx would be my desire.

[Royalworks]

I think I would buy that glass for my ride. Love that glass. What did you do to reinforce the roof?

[daemon2]

I am playing with a rosebud torch and chromoly tubing to fab a hidden roll bar up the sides, across the front and across the rear. Also trying not to burn the house down :)
You can probably see in your 1800 that there isn't a lot of space along the A pillar to add additional structure so I am working on a solution there. There was never a lot of structure in that roof:
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/p1800%20rollover.jpg
I will let you know what the glass costs after we get one done, they can probably run two after the blank has been completed as easy as making one.
I think I would buy that glass for my ride. Love that glass. What did you do to reinforce the roof?

[Royalworks]

I would think you could cut into part of the A pillar and recess it but I just went and looked at it and there isn't much on an A pillar to begin with. Might have to be some smaller tubing that goes there. If its smaller I would gusset the sides to the pillar to help with strength. Who else has some input on this?

[daemon2]

A few small updates on the interior panels and rear windows
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800%20GT%20trans%20tunnel%20dn.jpg

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800%20GT%20rear%20close%20in%20panels.jpg

[daemon2]

I have been working on my metal forming skills using hand tools. There are a few parts I need to fabricate for the rear to complete the body widening. This was a practice piece from today, have to trash it and try again:

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800%20GT%20wing%20support.jpg
Old part and pattern

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800%20GT%20old%20part.jpg

New part test fit
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800%20GT%20test%20part.jpg

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800%20GT%20test%20part%202.jpg

More practice required :) This is 16 ga.

[waynieZ]

The work you've done on this is amazing. I love the renderings.

[Iamtheonlyreal1]

I would think you could cut into part of the A pillar and recess it but I just went and looked at it and there isn't much on an A pillar to begin with. Might have to be some smaller tubing that goes there. If its smaller I would gusset the sides to the pillar to help with strength. Who else has some input on this?

With the tempered roof glass I am having made for my P1800 build, I am only really removing the actual roof skin, and then boxing out the roof rails, because the basic structure for that style glass is there. I plan on leaving the upper back window/roof cross brace in place, and having the full roof glass conceal it, by using the same ceramic coating that is being used on our black out border and dot mattrix pattern. A quality Tempered glass, along with quality urethane, will actually add rigidity to the body structure...

I really think that Vox came up with the glass roof design by looking at the factory roof structure, because you can really see the possibilities after the headliner is removed. By boxing all the factory roof rails out, you can then add the flanges for the glass to adhere to, so it wont be that complicated of a process.

[WSSix]

Car's looking good! I'm impressed with your skills and what you're learning. Good luck!

[Royalworks]

I really want the glass for my car. I have been messing with my car lately and im excited

[daemon2]

I should have some updates soon! :)
I really want the glass for my car. I have been messing with my car lately and im excited

[daemon2]

I find it difficult to get much garage time in the summer, kids out of school, and lots of family time. I have a few small updates.

baby twins :)
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800%20GT%20twins.jpg

I am busy planning plumbing for Turbosmart waste and BOVs with Holley controls.
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800%20GT%20wastegate.jpg

I went with oil and water cooled, a few more stainless lines to run.
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800%20GT%20GTK550.jpg

I love the look of the ported shroud, maybe there is clear silicone intake tubing out there?
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800%20GT%20GTK%20port.jpg

Stainless header rough in:
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800%20GT%20stainless%20header.jpg

And some progress on the body:
Its hard to see in this image but I have modified the door handles, all the mechanical linkages have been removed and I have an electronic switch that operates door release actuators.
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800%20GT%20door%20handle%20mod.jpg

Still repairing panels, this is the front quarter near the hood opening, previous repairs added in inches of bondo and layers of repair. All gone now.
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800%20GT%20Front%20quarter%20repair.jpg

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800%20GT%20front%20quarter%20prep.jpg

More this fall...

[daemon2]

Still working on the turbo headers, will move into the plumbing and controls soon.
A few pics:
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800%20GT%20engine%20d%20side.jpg

Drivers side, I am mounting the turbo's back near the firewall, the headers ended up looking like ram horns. The engine bay is tight so this is where I found room.

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800%20GT%20turbo%20mount%20dside.jpg
I am supporting the header near the turbo with a support welded to the bottom and bolted to the block, also have hangars for the turbo that are not mounted yet.

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800%20GT%20turbo%20transition.jpg

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800GT%20collector.jpg
my welds are more consistent now, stainless is nice to work with.

[Royalworks]

Its been a while since i have been on here. Pretty awesome stuff!

[WSSix]

Headers look fantastic!

[daemon2]

I have removed all the mechanical bits from the door handles and am replacing it with electronics. I modified the door handles to accept the illuminated buttons that actuate the door latches.

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DSCF1688.JPG

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DSCF1692.JPG

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800%20GT%20door%20handle%20mod.jpg
This last image was a test fit before all the machining was complete.

[WSSix]

That's a neat idea! :thumbsup:

[MacPiper]

Great idea with the door handles. Will they work with a proximity key to allow activation?

[daemon2]

Great idea with the door handles. Will they work with a proximity key to allow activation?

Thanks, and yes they exterior release is only active when the alarm is deactivated. It could work the same way with a prox key

[daemon2]

Slowly putting together the firewall and planning plumbing.

Rad in:
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800%20GT%20radiator.jpg

Wilwood Pedals test fit:
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800%20GT%20pedals.jpg

And some eye candy under the hood:
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800%20GT%20MC%20and%20reservior.jpg

[coolwelder62]

Lookin Good.!!!!!!:thumbsup:

[MacPiper]

Getting closer now. Looks great!

[Royalworks]

What are you doing for the brake booster? Glad that ugly thing is gone off the firewall. Btw I got mine up and running so I can enjoy it. I can't wait to see this one done or even just more project pics.

[LS7 Z/28]

Wild build, it's truly unique. Looks great thanks for sharing.

[daemon2]

I have not updated for a while and have lost track of the work I have completed... still lots to do.
I am working out stainless hard line plumbing and having a terrible time finding fittings and matching threads. Still welding up the 3" stainless exhaust and should have more pics of that soon.

For now:
http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800%20GT%20hood%20fit.jpg
cut the hood and started mocking up a hood scoop

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800%20GT%20rad.jpg
rad is in, fan is in, working on a grill and more metal fab on the body

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800%20GT%20side.jpg
test fit of the dash

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800%20GT%20side%20body%20turbo%20hood.jpg
you can see the turbo tucked in there, working on firewall, air cleaner location and cold/hot side plumbing

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800%20GT%20top.jpg

http://www.daemoncustomauto.com/P1800%20Images/DCA%20P1800%20GT%20top%20look%20hood%20cut%20side% 20test%20fit.jpg

comments appreciated, thanks for looking.

[WSSix]

I love this build. I don't care if it's slower moving. I'm patient. Keep up the great work!

[DETON8R]

DAMN!! Awesome progress!! The car is getting a nose JOB!!

I'd like to see a few more photos of that. And any issues you ran into doing it.

Keep the photos coming.

[2keaton11]

Nice car man you have some good skills for first timing alot of it. The rendering is sweet, had to re read your whole thread but well worth it. Wish I would have checked it out a long time ago when you were in the engine phase, my buddy had a BMW M3 and always talked about the engine/trans combo "V8 475hp/triptronic 6 speed he called it" and how fun it was on the track, I didnt know if that would have been a good option when you were searching but cant go wrong with the nice LS you built and that awesome turbo setup. Cant wait to see it done, Wish I had those skills! :superhack:

[daemon2]

What are you doing for the brake booster? Glad that ugly thing is gone off the firewall. Btw I got mine up and running so I can enjoy it. I can't wait to see this one done or even just more project pics.

Hi - just saw this post - I think I will be running manual brakes for now - not sure if I can fit a booster in anywhere.
I have no experience with running wilwoods without a booster but they are designed to run without one.

[daemon2]

A few issues with the nose yes, it had more rust in it then I expected so I will be fabricating a new one, i will have to add a lower valence to it to extend down where the radiator is now as well. I will post more pics when I get more progress on this metal work.

DAMN!! Awesome progress!! The car is getting a nose JOB!!

I'd like to see a few more photos of that. And any issues you ran into doing it.

Keep the photos coming.

[Royalworks]

This is looking pretty awesome! Keep it up!

[DETON8R]

A few issues with the nose yes, it had more rust in it then I expected so I will be fabricating a new one, i will have to add a lower valence to it to extend down where the radiator is now as well. I will post more pics when I get more progress on this metal work.

It has been a while, any posts or updates?

[DETON8R]

Was hoping to see some updates.
What's up with all the photos? Guess the photos on the external host site have been taken down.
Bummer, these photos showed some pretty fantastic fabrication.