Project 'Overtime': Pro-Touring 68 Acadian (Nova) with L92 swap [Archive] - Page 2

scherp69

06-11-2010, 10:26 PM

Mike -- unless you're prepared to do a complete weld and grind - and add and fill.... REMEMBER that working with what you have is about SPLITTING the distance -- so it's half of what "would be" perfect... you can't expect an old stock body to have gaps that are like a high dollar custom build... just get them "good" - and splitting hairs here and a little there...

I helped with a 57 Limo -- 4 doors PER SIDE... we split the window frames to get the gaps at the top "right" --- and had to add welding rod to the door edge to close gaps up etc.... it's A LOT of work to get this old stuff "right".

Mike I don't envy you alining the sheetmetal. I helped a friend do his car and we drove ourself nuts. Greg is right split the difference. We did the door and set it to rocker and quarter first then the rest of the door. We didn't have to deal with the top frame on the door like you do. After seeing what you've already done you'll get this done.

Thanks again guys. Last night I kept looking at the pics of the gaps and you're right, it's an old car and this isn't a high dollar build. I'm doing it in my garage and it's my first attempt at something this big. And as I've read over and over again, the aftermarket stuff does not fit like the OEM stuff. With that in mind, I have aftermarket quarter panels and aftermarket hinges so I'm battling the aftermarket stuff on either end. I was looking at the driver's side and if I can get the door to come forward a bit, other than the bottom which I'll work on, I'll be happy. When I was looking at the hinges yesterday, I noticed that they won't go further any more. I'm just going to ream the holes out a bit to bring the door forward. As long as the doors work and look good I'll be happy. Here's some more pics of the doors as they sit now.

Driver's side. You can see on the driver's side quarter where I've already had to cut it to make it fit better.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000461.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000460.jpg

Passenger side

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000459.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000462.jpg

Today I got the deck filler panel finished

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000452.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000454.jpg

Looks way better now. Still needs to be cleaned up better.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000456.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000457.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000458.jpg

I really like the look of new sheet metal. I'm so tempted to buy new fenders and doors. I'll wait and see how these ones looks once I get them down to the metal.

GregWeld

06-11-2010, 10:32 PM

Next thing ya know Mike -- you'll be opening a custom fab shop!:rofl:

Looks good... real good. :cheers:

scherp69

07-27-2010, 01:51 PM

Next thing ya know Mike -- you'll be opening a custom fab shop!:rofl:

Looks good... real good. :cheers:

Thanks Greg :cheers: :lol:

Well I've gotten around to getting some done on the car. I want to try and have it in primer before this winter so have been working on stripping the car. I also have most of the driver's side quarter done.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000502.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000491.jpg

Found a few areas of concern in the rear tail panel. I'm leaning towards getting both sections new from Auto Metal Direct. A new tail light panel is $150 and the rear trunk crossmember is $130. Better to get rid of the trouble areas.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000496.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000498.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000499.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000500.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000501.jpg

I also found a couple issues on the passenger door. Should be easy fixes though.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000506.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000504.jpg

scherp69

07-27-2010, 01:52 PM

I've also been trying to figure out how to run the gas filler neck. I went and looked at all kinds of pieces of exhaust tubing and all the bends weren't tight enough or weren't a mandrel bend so they were flat. In the end, I think the original filler neck I got with the gas cap will work. The one thing I didn't like with it is that is designed for camaros so it is slightly off to the right. I wanted mine to be through the middle. So I figured I would cut it in half and I'll just get it rewelded to be straight. I'll still need to run some exhaust tube through the trunk, but this will fit quite nicely under the rear trunk lock support.

The original filler neck

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000283.jpg

After I cut it. Just need to get it welded back together. I'm also thinking about cutting the neck part of it to make it a bit shorter.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000505.jpg

I also picked up some weather stripping for the doors and trunk so I can get them aligned properly.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000507.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000508.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000510.jpg

OnEdge

07-27-2010, 06:22 PM

Bare metal looks great. What did you use to strip paint? If you don't care to go into details for your method.

scherp69

07-27-2010, 06:52 PM

Yeah there is something about bare metal. It looks pretty sweet. For most of the areas I'm just using 80 grit sand paper on a DA sander. The car was painted in 1995 and was taken to the metal then too, so it's not too bad. For the tighter spots and places I don't want to use the sander, I've been using a 3M Scotch-Brite clean and strip roloc pads. I usually use the purple ones, but also have some of the black ones as they were out of the purple ones. I found the purple ones lasted longer. These things last quite a while and go a long ways for stripping. http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Paint/Application_Systems/Products/Product_Catalog/?PC_7_RJH9U5230079D02R7QH2A20CJ7_nid=GSLFNJGWJ4beR J5GMFSMV0gl

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/PICT00554.jpg

The other thing I'm using is a Nyalox wire brush. Both the 3M and the Nyalox fit onto my air die grinders so are easy to use. http://www.summitracing.com/search/brand/Dico/Product-Line/Dico-Nyalox-Brushes/?autoview=SKU

This one's warn down some already

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000531.jpg

IndyNova

08-02-2010, 06:21 PM

scherp69

08-03-2010, 10:10 AM

Awesome build, my Nova is heading to my buddies shop for mini tubs and some other mods soon, I can't wait. Did u spot weld the filler panel on the interior side similar to the factory? Also, how did u attach it on the corners where it meets up with the quarter channel? Thanks for any advice, ur car is giving me major motivation to get my ass in the garage and get started again(I may "borrow" the fuel filler idea though) I really like that look, it breaks up that huge open space between the taillights

Thanks!! Make sure you post some pics when you get the mods done. I just plug welded the filler panel from the top. I figured most of the areas won't be seen anyways, so I'll just grind all the welds down and put a bit of filler in. As for the corners, I also just used plug welds. Yeah moving the filler neck does look a lot better. I actually borrowed the idea of it from Billy (72Novadriver). Seems there are so many different ways it can be done, it's just trying to figure out which way to install the filler tube that's the hard part :lol:

IndyNova

08-03-2010, 03:20 PM

Were there spot welds on the trunk side of the panel where the weatherstripping fits, or just on the corners and on the interior side? Thx, just making sure I don't miss any and f something up

scherp69

08-06-2010, 12:59 PM

Were there spot welds on the trunk side of the panel where the weatherstripping fits, or just on the corners and on the interior side? Thx, just making sure I don't miss any and f something up

I used plug welds. You can drill holes or I used a hole punch to run holes along the sides. I welded in the seam where the weatherstipping sits along the back and the sides. There also a couple spots right above the trunk hinges where I welded. They were stock weld locations.

In this pictures, where the clecos are is where I ran the plug welds along the back

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000452.jpg

In this picture you can see where the welds are along the side

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000456.jpg

scherp69

08-06-2010, 01:04 PM

Time for a bit of an update. Last week I started stripping the driver's side door and did not like what I found. I found the entire front section of the door was all bondo....and thick. Looks like it was almost 1/4-1/2" thick in some spots. I also found bondo all over the rest of the door.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000532.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000534.jpg

So this morning I called up Frank and ordered new door skins for both sides. I thought with the door skins, I also might be able to cheat with them and help align the gaps a bit better. I also ordered a new tail light panel and the rear cross rail. I also decided to get some Vintage Air proline louvers in a brushed aluminum look. They weren't cheap but will look so sweet. I'm just waiting to hear back from Jon at Thunder Road and I will also be ordering an instrument panel. Will post pics once I get all the stuff.

waynieZ

08-06-2010, 07:42 PM

Are the doors skins damaged or did they use the body filler to align them?

scherp69

08-07-2010, 02:36 PM

Are the doors skins damaged or did they use the body filler to align them?

I'm not sure. The rest of the door had quite a bit of bondo on it also so another reason for the skins. In the picture you can see lots of black spots. Most of those are little dents. I'm probably going to strip the rest of the bondo to see what's going on underneath. Will post pics when I find out.

IndyNova

08-08-2010, 05:05 PM

scherp69

09-07-2010, 05:15 PM

Thx for the help, it took a while, but I got the filler panel replaced. Do they sell the moulding brackets seperately? I noticed after I had messed with mine it didn't have them. Thanks for the help and motivation.

Which molding brackets do you mean?

I haven't gotten much done on the car over the past month. I blasted the passenger door, but the glass that I used was a bit too coarse so I'm going to redo it with walnut and see how it turns out. I might end up having to run the DA over it.

A couple weeks ago one our local pub had a draw for a free Coor's Light fridge. One entry for every Coors Light product you buy. Well that so happens to be the beer that my wife and I drink the most at that pub and guess what...the wife won it. Right away she gave it to me for the shop.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000536.jpg

Once I had the fridge, I decided to make a storage compartment where it was more at the right height to get at it. You can never have too much storage. The cabinet is 4 feet wide by 2 feet deep and about 6 feet high. Nice big storage on the bottom and I plan on moving all my paint into one of the shelves.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000542.jpg

A little bit for every occasion. Quantities change occasionally depending on how the time in the shop's going :devil: I know..Budweiser in a Coor's Light fridge.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000546.jpg

Tomorrow I plan on putting a spare 20" tv out there. I already have cable running to the shop for the stereo, so I'll just run a splitter.

Made a run to the border and picked up some more sheet metal.

Got some new door skins. I was hoping to get Auto Metal Direct skins but unfortunately they won't have their own ready for six months or longer. Not sure who's these are, but they are pretty thick and seem to be pretty good quality.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000558.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000559.jpg

The other parts are Auto Metal Direct. They are such good quality and quite a bit thicker than the other sheet metal that I have gotten.

New rear cross rail

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000554.jpg

New tail light panel

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000557.jpg

And not sure if I will need them or not, but I got them..new trunk extension end caps

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000555.jpg

And finally................

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000547.jpg

One of the first Thunder Road consoles for a 68 Nova. Even got it without the heater control hole so I can mount the electric controls in the center console (yet to be built).

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000549.jpg

They even come with the steering column cover. The neat thing about this part was I contacted John Covan a while ago to see if they were coming out with a 68 Nova panel. He said they were but he was looking for a steering column cover to make a mold from. Luck had it....my stock panel fell off a shelf and broke, but I never got around to getting rid of it yet so I still had the steering column cover. Shipped it off to John to make a new part. John was a great guy to deal with and he gave me a smoking deal on the panel.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000550.jpg

Next week I have 4 days off that I will get to spend in the shop, then I have to work 2 day shifts than I took all my night shifts off so will have 7 more days to work in the shop. Plus the wife will be away on two separate courses so will have lots of time. I hope to get all the new sheet metal on, finish stripping the car and get it into primer. Need to get it done before the cold weather hits. Will update as I go.

IndyNova

09-07-2010, 06:52 PM

Looks good! The mouldings I was referring to were the ones where the window sits(I'll try to pm u a pic of what I mean). Also, did u replace the upper dash panel? I've got mine cut out and just want to see a pic of one done. Thanks for the update, it won't be long now

waynieZ

09-07-2010, 08:05 PM

New parts thats always good. I like the storage you have there, and nicely stocked with liquid refreshments! :thumbsup:

Blake Foster

09-08-2010, 08:49 AM

Geezzzz they go and give you a fridge and then you fill it with BUD

LOL

bonecrrusher

09-08-2010, 10:29 AM

Nice fridge!!

scherp69

09-15-2010, 05:32 PM

Thanks for the comments guys.

I made it out the shop and got some work done. I started cutting out the old tail panel and cross rail:

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000566.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000570.jpg

I will put some POR15 inside as well to stop the rust

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000571.jpg

If you're wondering how I went about removing the panels, here's how I cut out the tail panel. Need to cut out the fuel cap part and redo it in the new tail panel

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000572.jpg

As for the rear cross rail, you need to get rid of all the spot welds, which are quite big in size. I started to use my spot weld cutter, but broke it so need to get a new one. I ended up using my air cut off tool as a grinder and just ground down the area around the welds. Worked great. I then cut the panel into two parts to take off. Once I get another spot weld cutter, I will tackle the rest.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000573.jpg

I also started to fill up the new storage compartment. Got the TV hooked up too. :D

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000576.jpg

waynieZ

09-15-2010, 08:09 PM

Nice progress Mike.

GregWeld

09-15-2010, 09:30 PM

scherp69

09-15-2010, 09:35 PM

Mike -- I'm no pro at any of this -- but look into what is called "weld thru primer"... for those rusty areas (SEM or 3M). If you start using "paint" -- it will just burn off wherever you're welding. The Weld thru primer will protect the metal and won't burn off.

Here's a video on using it!

http://www.ehow.com/video_2326972_apply-weld-thru-primer.html

There is also "rust convertors" -- that will convert the rust and protect the metal. But If I'm welding around the area - I use the weld thru stuff.

Thanks for the tip Greg. I actually have a couple cans of weld thru primer and have been using it on most of the welded spots. I was going to use POR in the deeper areas and then the areas that I would be welding I will use the primer.

GregWeld

09-15-2010, 09:39 PM

:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :woot:

bonecrrusher

09-16-2010, 10:04 AM

nice update!

IndyNova

09-22-2010, 09:14 AM

Looks good mike! A couple questions, again you've inspired me to replace my tail panel and cross rail (they need them anyway, and the new metal looks good) but did you have to brace the trunk when you cut the tail panel or cross rail out? Also,did you also replace the brace, and does it matter which order you put it back together? Thanks

scherp69

09-24-2010, 07:15 PM

nice update!

Thanks

Looks good mike! A couple questions, again you've inspired me to replace my tail panel and cross rail (they need them anyway, and the new metal looks good) but did you have to brace the trunk when you cut the tail panel or cross rail out? Also,did you also replace the brace, and does it matter which order you put it back together? Thanks

Thanks. Glad to know my work is making others do more work too :unibrow: I didn't brace the trunk at all when I did mine. Hopefully this update will answer your questions.

I spent every day this week in the shop and I still didn't get as much done as I wanted to. It's amazing how that always happens.

Got back to work on the rear cross rail. That alone took me a couple days by the time I patched some metal, cleaned things up, etc. One suggestion for anyone planning on doing this.....make sure to get a new rear cross brace: http://autometaldirect.com/ListItems/SubCategory/Trunk/Rear%20Crossmember.aspx and cross rail extensions: http://autometaldirect.com/ListItems/SubCategory/Trunk/Rear%20Crossmember%20Extension.aspx They will make the job so much easier. That's why it took me so long to do mine.

First thing I tackled were getting rid of the old trunk extension end caps. There were a pain, but can be done with the quarters on. I didn't have the quarters welded were they connect to the end caps so it made it way easier. Here's where the end caps connect to on the quarter panel

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000625.jpg

Looked like crap from the inside with the old ones in place

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000586.jpg

It's gone

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000588.jpg

New one in place. It's been sprayed with weld through primer that's why it's grey

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000595.jpg

Looks much better from inside too

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000628.jpg

Next was patching some of the cross brace

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000587.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000590.jpg

I bought myself a cheap metal brake a while back. Glad I did. Drilled some holes in my work bench and bolted it in place.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000589.jpg

Next were the cross rail extensions. Since I didn't buy new ones, I just made some.

Old one

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000591.jpg

New one. Was actually quite easy to make

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000592.jpg

New ones welded into place. I know...the second one is bent the wrong way. But it still does the job. When I put these in, I realized that I made the bottom tabs too long. When the cross rail sits in place, it slides under the extension caps. I just cut along the bottom so the rail would slide under. Hopefully that made sense.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000597.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000598.jpg

And finally...it was in

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000603.jpg

Next up was getting things ready for the tail light panel

First I spent time cleaning up the rear flange. When I took the old one off and the cross rail, I ended up with a few weak spots like this

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000600.jpg

scherp69

09-24-2010, 07:17 PM

Here's where a piece of copper comes in really handy. Mine has magnets on it but it doesn't hold very good at all so I clamped it to the bottom and filled in the holes

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000601.jpg

Got it all filled and in weld through primer

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000602.jpg

Put the trunk lid back on to get proper alignment

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000603.jpg

Putting the tail light panel in turned out to be a pain also. I had to tweak the quarters to make them fit better.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000607.jpg

I mocked it into place, but the gap between it and the trunk was quite big

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000608.jpg

One thing I never even thought of until it was brought to my attention was the possibility of the trunk sagging. So I had to persuade the floor a bit

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000611.jpg

Once I got things lined up to where I was happy, I used some screws and clamps to hold things into place.

The rear gap was better. I might still weld in a piece of rod to get it a bit closer

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000612.jpg

Side gaps..I can live with. Again, I might weld in some rod if I get picky

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000613.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000614.jpg

Along the back. It could go in a bit with some trunk adjustment

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000615.jpg

I welded everything into place and cleaned it up.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000618.jpg

One thing I found after putting in so much new sheetmetal...I've ended up with a decent collection of clamps. And I can imagine this is small compared to some guys.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000616.jpg

After I got that done, I started finishing up some of the little things I never got around to getting done. I finished welding the sail panel around the rear window. Then I got the passenger side wheel well opening all finished. I had a few tacks in there, but it wasn't all done. I also cut 1/4 - 1/2" off to give some more room for the tires. Still have to finish the driver's side.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000619.jpg

Then I wanted to do a 'just sit there' job so I worked on getting the passenger side door jamb stripped. I was going to blast it, but I found it went really quick with the scotch brite pads so I just kept doing it.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000623.jpg

Not sure if I'll get anything done on the weekend as the wife is back from her courses and I'm back to work on Monday. Hopefully next weekend I'll get a bunch more done as my wife and step daughter take off for most of my days off.

waynieZ

09-24-2010, 07:25 PM

You made some nice progress.

frojoe

09-24-2010, 07:37 PM

Very good stuff... makes me feel terrible about the lack of progress on my Nova haha. :thumbsup:

GregWeld

09-24-2010, 08:49 PM

Looks great Mike!

Hey --- don't forget --- a rookie mistake (LOL) --- is to fit things up WITHOUT the rubber seals in place --- so before you go wracking the sheetmetal around too much -- make sure you have the "wubba" in place and then check fit. Use your old stuff if it's still around... but check the size against the new -- I've found some of the new stuff is "thicker" and or "thinner" than the OEM. *
:thumbsup:

IndyNova

10-12-2010, 01:11 PM

We need an update!!! More pics!:D

scherp69

10-12-2010, 05:04 PM

I should have some pics tomorrow or Thursday. Won't be anything too exciting through. I got most of the paint stripped and almost ready for primer. When I started to strip the windshield channel, I found some ugly spots so am in the process of cutting out the bad and putting in new stuff.

scherp69

10-23-2010, 02:49 PM

Well I'm not as far along as I was hoping to be, but thought I'd post an update anyways. So I started stripping the window channels and found some ugly areas. For anyone that has never replaced sections of a window channel...what a pain in the *****. Each section probably took me about 2 hours if not longer.

All the areas with black on it I decided to cut out

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000649.jpg

Cut the first part out

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000650.jpg

I used 18 gauge sheet metal and found out that the cheap metal brake was exactly that...cheap. Didn't work at all with 18 gauge. So I had to use my vice and a hammer.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000663.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000651.jpg

The first part was pretty straight forward. You can see in this pic part of the new piece that was put in. The second part had a curve to it so I had to make some relief cuts in the new metal

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000652.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000657.jpg

New stuff in place

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000658.jpg

Here's a close up of the rest of the areas I got rid of

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000653.jpg

I'm not going to show each section as you get the hint. The windshield channel took quite a while as there were 4 or 5 sections to replace.

Onto the rear window....more rust.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000665.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000666.jpg

Out with the old

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000669.jpg

New piece fabbed up

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000670.jpg

And in place

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000671.jpg

Once I had the rear window done I started doing a long list of other things that I have neglected or forgot about

Did the sail panel gap

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000675.jpg

I wanted the trunk/quarter welds to be cleaner, so I added some filler

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000676.jpg

Other things I got done:

Finished welding the quarter panel at the door jambs. Most of the welds were there, but had to finish a few more and clean them up.

Had to weld the quarter panel to the rocker panel. This was done where the rear window sits in the back seat area. What a pain that was.

Finished welding all the plug welds on the driver's side wheel housing and trimmed about 1/2" off the fender lip, just like the passenger side. Gave me some extra clearance for the tires. I think I have enough room now that that when I burn the 305's up, I'll be sending my rims in to be widened and get some 315's or 325's.

Finished stripping the rocker panels. Thankfully didn't find any rusted areas.

It seemed like everytime I got doing one area I haven't gotten around to, I would realize there was something else I didn't do.

scherp69

10-23-2010, 02:50 PM

I was planning on getting the car into primer so I cleaned it all with PPG wax and grease remover.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000677.jpg

Started masking the car. I wasn't too concerned about masking the inside as I will cleaning it up and putting in some POR or Zero Rust.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000678.jpg

I got my spray gun out and was going to lay down the first coat of primer but I could not find my gun regulator anywhere. It was getting late in the day so I thought I would wait till later this week to get it done. Good thing I have two 220v heaters to get my shop nice and toasty as it's starting to get pretty close to zero Celcius over night.

I also thought I was going to have to get new primer as mine sat in the shop since last winter and it got down to -20 degrees Celcius if not closer to -30 a few times. I called the supplier who said it should be fine. He said if it was water based primer, it would likely be no good. I'm using BASF RM line EP569 and EP769 (one's gray the other is black). So the next update the car will be in primer.

GregWeld

10-24-2010, 12:20 PM

Looking really good Mike!

bonecrrusher

10-24-2010, 02:01 PM

Nice......

waynieZ

10-24-2010, 06:02 PM

It looks great your making nice progress.

aany001

10-24-2010, 08:08 PM

Hey Mike its Steve down here in Toronto Ontario I bought your upper and lower control arms.Man the car is looking great. We are around the same stage.I am having more fun now as the end is coming closer.:thumbsup:

scherp69

10-29-2010, 04:08 PM

Thanks for all the comments guys.

Hey Mike its Steve down here in Toronto Ontario I bought your upper and lower control arms.Man the car is looking great. We are around the same stage.I am having more fun now as the end is coming closer.:thumbsup:

Hey Steve. I was looking at your build the other. I think you're a bit ahead of me. I still need to get the gaps done on mine. Yours is looking great.

Onto the updates......

Got the filler cap panel back into place. Didn't bother posting pics of the process as I did that earlier, and really it's just welding a piece of sheet metal into place. After I got that done, I finished up a few last things I wanted to get done before spraying it.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000686.jpg

I finally got around to laying the primer. I decided to put 2 coats of black down first so I know when I'm getting close to the metal when sanding.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000688.jpg

And then it was grey.....

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000690.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000691.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000692.jpg

The weather today wasn't too bad outside (8 degree Celcius) but I still needed to have one of the 220 heaters going. Got it pretty nice in the shop. Don't think I'll have to worry about it being too cold in there. I had it running all day yesterday, today and will turn it off tomorrow after the cars had a good 24 hours in that temp.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000689.jpg

I was asked about what primer I was using in another thread. I know I posted it earlier in this thread, but thought I'd post it again. It's a fairly new product that BASF brought out and is a one product for everything primer. I'm using it on the bare metal, as a high build and it will be my sealer also. Here's a quote from one of their pamphlets:

Primer-surfacer? Wet-on-wet sealer? Precoat? Polyuroxy? Now one product lets you clear some shelf space by meeting all those needs. R-M’s new chromate-free epoxy primers – available in four colors – let shops replace a variety of products with just one easy-to-use solution. With outstanding adhesion over steel, aluminum, zinc coated and galvanized metals, the new primers are free of chromates yet deliver proven epoxy performance. The primers are offered in gray (EP569), white (EP669), black (EP769) and red (EP869) to blend smoothly with any basecoat, while eliminating excess
inventory and guesswork.

Here's the link to where I found that: http://www.leadingedge-az.com/winnin...ing2008%20.pdf It talks about the primer on page 7 of the pamphlet.

This stuff was brought to my attention by 2blackragtops who owns a body shop and spoke to the BASF rep about using a product that would do everything for me since I'm doing it all in my shop. The only thing is....it's not cheap. I bought a gallon of black and a quart of grey to start with. A quart runs about $60-70. The nice thing though.....one product for each step. I did the firewall with it so far and I found that it sprays nice and sanded easy. I haven't done much sanding on other primers so not sure how it is in comparison, but I was happy with it. I'm really happy with how the firewall turned out.

So now that the car is in primer, I'm going to take a break from the car for a couple weeks. I'm re-organizing my shop and need to get some stuff done around the yard. Not sure what I'll tackle next but as always....will post pics.

waynieZ

10-29-2010, 05:07 PM

Nice progress it looks great. They look almost done once you get them all one color even though we know better. Nice.

GregWeld

10-29-2010, 05:47 PM

:woot: :woot: :woot:

AMPCamaro

12-05-2010, 09:54 AM

What a awesome build your doing here ,respect.

I have an '70 nova (ex drag car)to build for auto cross and track use,like to get the speed tech torqarm rear suspension for it.

Mike

Blake Foster

12-05-2010, 10:11 AM

we ship to Europe!

LanceL

12-05-2010, 12:51 PM

Hi Mike,

I'm new on this site and just read the whole thread you made here. Awesome job on your car and thanks for all the great work helping the rest of us with this thread.

What did you do with those stock exhaust manifolds? I need a set for a turbo build I am doing. If you want you can pm about them. Thanks

Lance

andrew5

12-05-2010, 04:55 PM

looikin real good.:hail: that's one killer nova.

jschaecher

12-07-2010, 08:01 PM

Well it's been a while since I had any updates. To be honest, I haven't been all that motivated to actually work on the car. There has been zero overtime at work so no new parts coming in and I feel like I'm in over my head with this build. As I stated before, I've decided to do as much as I can without having to get new parts. This update is also going to have quite a few questions, so if you can answer any of them that would be greatly appreciated.

After welding in the rear fuel filler panel, I decided I was going to work on routing the filler tube through the trunk. I tried working around the trunk latch but the filler neck wouldn't fit, so I decided to remove it for the time being. I welded in some support braces

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000304.jpg

After taking a bunch of measurements, I cut the latch out

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000306.jpg

Unfortunately that's still how's it sitting. I was trying to figure out how to run the filler neck. The one that came with the Alston filler cap is designed for a Camaro so it goes off to the right instead of straight down. I can get a universal one that comes straight out from the filler cap and then I would have to run it down somehow. My first question....if I decided to get the straight one would I be able to use exhaust tube for the rest of the filler neck? Would there be any issue having gas gown down exhaust tube? I was thinking about drilling a hole though the trunk floor and running the exhaust tube with different bends so it came out where the filler tube on a stock tank would meet it. I was then going to weld the exhaust tube to the trunk so it doesn't move. I would then put the trunk latch back on to cover all this up. I would likely have to use a 90 degree piece of rubber tube to join the filler cover and the exhaust tube running down. Does this sound like it would work???

The next thing I started to do was to get the subframe aligned and push the motor back. The subframe was pretty close and I didn't have to do a lot of moving it. I can't remember where online I found the diagram with measurements, but I used a hole on the rear frame rails and measured to the alignment hole on the subframe beside where the firewall body mounts sit. I got the subframe so it was within 1/4" of the factory measurements. Is that close enough??

Once the frame was aligned, I pushed the motor back as far as I could. There's still quite a bit of room to the firewall

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000318.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000319.jpg

I then started hanging the sheet metal. I fought with getting the doors aligned. I have new Goodmark hinges and now I've read I would have been better off rebuilding the old ones. Oh well. I was told to take the strikers out...that helped. I also ripped out all the old weather stripping..that really helped. Here's the passenger door. The driver's door gap is almost the same. Will have some fixing to do.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000316.jpg

I started to hang the fenders and found that things weren't fitting very well. I ended up needing to find a stock set of body mount washers to put on top of the body mounts. Called Dave at Tin Man's and got a pair for $25.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000322.jpg

Without them in

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000324.jpg

With them in

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000326.jpg

Started hanging the fenders

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000330.jpg

Which brings me to some more questions. I know I'm supposed to align the doors first, then the fenders to the doors (I think that's right) but how do I know I'm doing it right? How do I know the driver's side and pass side with match up when I got to start putting everything else on? When should I add the hood? Any advice on aligning the sheetmetal would be greatly appreciated.

Hey Mike what did you ever figure out about the engine placement in comparison to the firewall? I'm trying to figure out if I should run standard LS engine mount kit or use a 1" back kit? I'm running a art morrison front frame, but that shouldn't effect the engine placement. Thanks for you help.

Jordan

Blake Foster

12-07-2010, 08:18 PM

i moved my ls back 1.75 " in my nova it makes it really tight to the fw but still room for lines and wiring.

scherp69

01-21-2011, 10:49 AM

Hey Mike what did you ever figure out about the engine placement in comparison to the firewall? I'm trying to figure out if I should run standard LS engine mount kit or use a 1" back kit? I'm running a art morrison front frame, but that shouldn't effect the engine placement. Thanks for you help.

Jordan

Sorry to take so long to reply to you Jordan. I'm using Autokraft's motor mount kit and with Speed Tech sub it has adjustable motor mounts. I've pushed the mounts back as far as they will go. I still have an inch or two that it could go back but I don't think I'm going to worry about it.

Just a quick update. I haven't done anything new to the car since October. It hasn't worked out with winter, xmas, work, etc. I plan on heading out on Monday though as the wife and daughter are gone until Thursday. What timing...I'm off Monday to Wednesday so I hope to get some stuff done.

These showed up this morning though. They are Speed Tech LSx headers that are built by Stainless Works. They are amazing quality. I know the polished isn't for everyone, but I'm glad I decided to get them. They will look awesome. Here's a few pics:

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000715.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000729.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000728.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000716.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000730.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000724.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000734.jpg

Nice thick flanges

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000736.jpg

You can see how deep the polish is on these things

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000738.jpg

LanceL

01-21-2011, 11:06 AM

Hey Mike, the headers look awesome!!

waynieZ

01-21-2011, 01:50 PM

Nice bling! They look awesome. They make some beautiful stuff. Sweet.

tones2SS

01-21-2011, 05:23 PM

Very nice Mike. The shine on those SW headers are awesome.:yes:

scherp69

01-24-2011, 06:42 PM

Thanks guys.

I got the headers installed today. They look great.

Got the tape off and cleaned up the head

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000741.jpg

Stainless Works recommends using the stock steel gaskets. For once I didn't go and do something stupid like sell them or throw them out.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000742.jpg

These things are dummy proof

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000744.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000745.jpg

The last motor I had in this car had Stage 8 header bolts. Hated them. They came loose all the time so this time I decided to go with Percy's split lock header bolts

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000746.jpg

If you're wondering how they work, here's some close ups

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000747.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000748.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000749.jpg

Added some of this good stuff to each of the bolts

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000751.jpg

And they were on

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000752.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000753.jpg

Other than the obvious reasons to do a LS swap, one more great reason is putting on the headers. These things took me less than an hour to put on. And I was taking my time not to scuff any thing up. I didn't swear once while putting the bolts in. Here's a close up of the bolt pattern

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000750.jpg

After I got the headers done, I decided to install the intake so it wasn't just sitting there. I started by taking off the coils and the coil mounts

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000772.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000776.jpg

Then I cleaned up the valley cover and intake ports

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000777.jpg

scherp69

01-24-2011, 06:42 PM

I had to buy some new intake seals. Glad they were cheap.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000770.jpg

These

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000778.jpg

Go into there

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000771.jpg

Like so

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000779.jpg

And it was back on

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000784.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000781.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000782.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000783.jpg

I plan on replacing the valve covers with some polished ones without coils mounts. I haven't decided yet exactly where I'm going to relocate the coils, but they will be hidden. I'm thinking about making a bracket and putting them on the subframe.

One other thing I'm debating about which I would love to hear your thoughts about. I'm leaning towards sanding down the intake and painting it body color. The way it is now, I think the grey doesn't really fit in. I plan on painting the engine compartment body color also, but I think the intake would look better red than grey. Thoughts???

Tomorrow I'll head back out to the shop. Not sure exactly what I will get done, but one thing I plan on doing is in regards to the ash tray. I don't smoke and I never will. I won't allow anyone to smoke in my car, so tomorrow I plan on filling in the ash tray area. I have two ashtrays for the car so I thought I might as well sell them and get some money towards the build.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000786.jpg

LanceL

01-24-2011, 06:45 PM

I was wondering where my gaskets were? Ha ha

scherp69

01-24-2011, 06:51 PM

One other thing I forgot to add was a mistake I made by rushing a job. When I did the firewall and put the hole in for the steering column, I rushed it and didn't mount the column properly. Well I'm paying for it now. I have to expand the existing hole for the steering column so it sits better. Right now it it crooked towards the driver's side and too far down. I'll expand the hole and hope that the polished cover I have will cover up most of the hole, if not I'll have to figure out a fix to cover the ooops area. I already have an idea of what I'll do.

Here's a pics of what I'm talking about

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000757.jpg

tones2SS

01-24-2011, 07:14 PM

Looks great Mike.
I think the intake would look killer painted to match the color of the engine bay.:thumbsup:

waynieZ

01-24-2011, 07:18 PM

The anti sieze is a must. It looks great.

lilcraigford

01-24-2011, 07:28 PM

Those headers are gorgeous! And I think the motor will look far less cluttered with the coils mounted elsewhere. :thumbsup:

GregWeld

01-24-2011, 09:52 PM

Looks great Mike.
I think the intake would look killer painted to match the color of the engine bay.:thumbsup:

X's 10

Looks good Mike.

Oh - and BTW -- you're not the first or the last guy to punch the steering column in the slightly off place... :>)

Blake Foster

01-25-2011, 08:50 AM

looks good Mike

all you need now is a set of those fancy ATS ign coil mounting brackets.....

lol it never ends !!!!

scherp69

01-26-2011, 03:32 PM

I was wondering where my gaskets were? Ha ha

I was hoping you wouldn't notice :_paranoid Just kidding. I knew that SW recommended to use them, that's why I ended up keeping them. Sorry Lance, I should have clarified that when we made deal.

Looks great Mike.
I think the intake would look killer painted to match the color of the engine bay.:thumbsup:

The anti sieze is a must. It looks great.

Those headers are gorgeous! And I think the motor will look far less cluttered with the coils mounted elsewhere. :thumbsup:

X's 10

Looks good Mike.

Oh - and BTW -- you're not the first or the last guy to punch the steering column in the slightly off place... :>)

Thanks for all the comments guys. I've decided I am going to paint the intake to match. Kinda have to now, I've already done a little sanding on it. I know I'm not the first to do the steering column wrong Greg...it still sucks though. Was hard to cut up the firewall again.

looks good Mike

all you need now is a set of those fancy ATS ign coil mounting brackets.....

lol it never ends !!!!

If I wasn't going to be hiding the coils, I'd be all over those ones Blake. I ended up getting a set of Rogers. I couldn't beat the price. Plus this way I will have more money for a set of down tubes. :D

I didn't get around to filling in the ash tray like I wanted to, but I did get the steering linkage all hooked up. What a pain in the ***** that was. And it took forever, although it didn't help that I had to keep chopping up my firewall. A whole lot of trial and error. I also took a nice chunk out of my hand. I had my hand some place it shouldn't have been and when the drill slipped, my hand was there to stop it. Got it so deep, it barely even bled. Thankfully I was almost done the steering as it put a bit of a damper on the rest of the day. Oh well enough whining and onto the pics.

Linkage hooked up. That's the nice thing about the Speed Tech headers. They are designed so you only have to use two knuckles. I ended up making a bit of a mess of the hole in the firewall, thankfully the steering column mount covers most of it. I think there's only two holes not covered.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000796.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000810.jpg

Thought I would see how it would look with everything else on.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000797.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000808.jpg

I put the steering wheel on. Will be so nice that I can turn the wheels with the steering wheel now instead of forcing the wheels themselves. I also put the gauge cluster in just to see how it will look

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000806.jpg

Since I messed up my hand, I thought I'd hang up some shop art that the wife got me for xmas. I've always wanted to get a bike, hence the bike ones (plus I love skulls)

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000816.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000817.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000818.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000820.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000822.jpg

I still have one more pic that I got from Carl that I need to hang. Just haven't found a good spot yet.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000825.jpg

This spring I hope to knock the shed that is behind the garage and put up a new one with a cement floor. I want to make the floor the same height and do the new shed as an attachment to the shop. I'll then punch a door way into the shed and move all my tools and cluster into the shed. Then I'll have more room for shop art.

I also ordered a few brackets from Ironworks that will make things easier. I ordered a Lokar parking brake bracket, a Mast ECU bracket and some coil relocation brackets. I then ordered a Lokar hand parking brake and a boot for it.

Steve68

01-26-2011, 04:03 PM

Explain the Mast ECU bracket please??

67rstbkt

01-26-2011, 04:28 PM

Wow, really starting to come together; nice work :woot:

waynieZ

01-26-2011, 04:39 PM

The steering hookup worked out good. Nice progress.

tones2SS

01-26-2011, 05:23 PM

Looks good Mike. Good call on the intake color.
Nice to see the steering and gauge cluster on there.:thumbsup:

LanceL

01-26-2011, 07:16 PM

No prob Mike. I was kidding anyway. You can just help me with questions I have and answers when the time comes??

scherp69

01-26-2011, 07:44 PM

Explain the Mast ECU bracket please??

http://www.lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=29355 Scroll down and you'll see the Mast one. He's made a bunch of brackets that the ecu's will hook right up to. Saves time making your own bracket.

Wow, really starting to come together; nice work :woot:

The steering hookup worked out good. Nice progress.

Looks good Mike. Good call on the intake color.
Nice to see the steering and gauge cluster on there.:thumbsup:

Thanks guys. :cheers:

No prob Mike. I was kidding anyway. You can just help me with questions I have and answers when the time comes??

Sounds good. I will do my best when the time comes. :cheers:

Steve68

01-26-2011, 08:10 PM

Thanks you sir!!!! Cars coming along nicely, can I PM you my email so you can send me all the pics of the tail pan replacement, I didn't tell you I have a 70 SS it rough but very quick, might even do a Pro-Charged 5.3 :unibrow:

scherp69

02-03-2011, 05:40 PM

Thanks Steve. How did the Photobucket pics work out for you. Anything in there you could use?

Got a few new parts in the last couple days. I got my brackets from Roger at Ironworks. http://www.ironworksspeedandkustom.com/

This is for the Mast ECU. Once I get my Highway 22 wiring harness, I'm going to send it to Roger and he will make a bracket for that and then I'll weld them together and put them both in the glove box area.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000834.jpg

I was originally going to go with a Lokar foot emergency brake, but as soon as I saw Roger's hand brake bracket, I knew I was going with a hand brake. Here's the bracket

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000835.jpg

I also got a Lokar hand brake and tried it in the bracket. Gonna like this set up.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000840.jpg

Lots of room for the cables to hook up. The front is closed in.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000842.jpg

I also got a set of coil relocation brackets. These things are sweet. I was going to try and make a set myself, but I can guarantee they wouldn't have come even close to these. I'm going to put these on the subframe just in front of the headers.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000836.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000838.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000839.jpg

I also got started on officially making my car a no-smoking area.

Out with the old

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000844.jpg

In with the new

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000846.jpg

Welded in. Still need to finish cleaning it up. I'm really happy with the way my welds have been turning out. Thanks again for the great tips Greg.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000848.jpg

I plan on heading out to the shop again tomorrow so will post pics if I get anything done.

tones2SS

02-03-2011, 05:43 PM

Very nice Mike. Keep us posted.

scherp69

02-04-2011, 03:43 PM

Very nice Mike. Keep us posted.

Thanks :cheers:

So not much of an update today as I was feeling lazy. I got the ash tray area welds cleaned up. When I was welding in the new metal, I noticed that the dash went in on a bit of an angle. I tried to push it out, but you can still see a bit of a dent. It also doesn't help when the primer on the rest of the dash is thicker. A little more with a hammer and dolly should help. Also, once it gets to a temperature to where I don't have to use 220 construction heaters, I'll put some filler on there and smooth it out. Here's how it looks so far. I think I like it better without the ash tray.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000851.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000850.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000852.jpg

scherp69

03-10-2011, 04:51 PM

Not a huge update, but an update none the less. A couple weeks ago I went and got some new tools. The brand is Magnum. It's a Chinese brand, but they still weren't cheap. The owner of the tool store gave me a really good deal so I thought why not. They are all very heavy so I know the steel is good. For as often as I will actually use them, they should do me fine.

36" pan and brake

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000868.jpg

Heavy duty shrinker and stretcher with foot pedal

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000861.jpg

The nice thing about the heavy duty one is how deep the throat is. The regular barely had any room to play at all

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000862.jpg

Bead roller with 15" throat. It came with 3 sets of beads and 3 sets of flanges. I'll likely end up getting a set of the shear ends for it. I just need to grab a 2" piece of steel tube next time I'm in town and I'm going to make a stand for it.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000859.jpg

Today I started making the console. I thought I would document it, whether or not it turns out okay. I decided to try making it out of metal. I'm using 1/4" round bar for the skeleton and then I will wrap it with sheet metal. I'm going to build it in 3 stages: first the arm rest area, then the front part of it and then I will connect the two. If you've never done work with round bar, it's slow going.

I made the two side like this

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000864.jpg

And then added round bar between the two. My plan is to have the back of the hand brake hidden and only the handle showing. Here's how the arm rest looks so far. I also plan on adding a hinged pad on top.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000866.jpg

Cris@JCG

03-10-2011, 07:50 PM

You are off to a good start Mike!.. I did not bolt the console to the dash because I will leave that to the upholstery shop.. Got a meeting on Saturday with him & will ask the question.. & let you know

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000866.jpg[/QUOTE]

coolwelder62

03-11-2011, 05:26 AM

Nice tools.:thumbsup: Stainless tool box is way cool.I wish I had a really big box.like the non smoker idea.:lol: Scott

scherp69

03-11-2011, 10:11 AM

Thanks Chris. That would be great. I haven't completely decided yet how I'm going to do it at the dash, but considered blending it into the dash.

Thanks Scott. Yeah I like the stainless box. It wasn't too badly priced either. I got it at Costco. I had a Craftsman one on order, but as soon as I saw the one at Costco..the Craftsman one got canceled.

GregWeld

03-11-2011, 10:29 AM

Mike --

Might consider getting some X braces in there... people like to use arm rests to lean on etc.

scherp69

03-11-2011, 11:10 AM

Mike --

Might consider getting some X braces in there... people like to use arm rests to lean on etc.

Thanks Greg. I still have a ways to go on it. That's just the main shape for now. I ran out of round bar. Grabbed a bunch more last night. Thanks for the tip though, it's easy to overlook things.

scherp69

03-28-2011, 05:58 PM

Finally got back into the shop to get a bit more done. I've been working a ton of overtime lately. Bad thing with that...no shop time. Good thing though.....more parts. After next week I'll have gotten an extra 43 hours of double bubble :D Hope to make a parts run in a couple more months.

Picked up a few more tools since the last update.

Got a ring roller. Works great with 1/4" round bar.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000875.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000874.jpg

I also picked up a universal metal bender, more for bending round bar. It was on sale for $40 so I thought why not. http://www.princessauto.com/workshop/garage/fabrication-and-equipment/metal-benders/8000447-universal-metal-bender

I started on the front part of the console. I ran a piece of string across the car to give me a straight line as a guide.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000877.jpg

I'm glad I remembered that I had a Vintage Air unit to put in still. I started measuring to run the console almost to the firewall and then I remembered the a/c.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000879.jpg

After about 5 straight hours in the shop, I ended up with this

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000881.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000885.jpg

Once I get the center section in place, I plan on running the front of the console on more of an angle. It won't be sitting straight up like it is now.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000889.jpg

And I reinforced the arm rest. These things look they should be at Paul Jr. Designs with all the round bar :devil:

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000883.jpg

This one almost looks like a chassis

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000882.jpg

Here's with it in place

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000887.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000890.jpg

And finally the two in place. I plan on using round bar to connect the two parts and then wrap it all with sheet metal. Not sure if I will just paint it or wrap it in leather.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000891.jpg

What do you guys think of it so far??

Blake Foster

03-28-2011, 06:04 PM

looks like a Exoskeleton for a rock crawler!!! :cheers:

how are you going to finish it Fiberglass??

should be cool

don't forget the cup holders:thumbsup:

waynieZ

03-28-2011, 06:56 PM

It looks great Mike. You got some nice tools to play with and putting them to good use I see. I'm glad you remembered the A/C ,it would have been a pain in the butt to think of it after. Nice work..

GregWeld

03-29-2011, 07:02 AM

MIKE!

WHERE ARE THE CUP HOLDERS???:D

Looks to me like you're having way too much fun!:cheers:

Chicken Louie

03-29-2011, 09:01 AM

Mike
Looking good!! You could always start a side business designing roll cages for rodents, squirrels and such? Just kidding.

scherp69

03-29-2011, 04:09 PM

looks like a Exoskeleton for a rock crawler!!! :cheers:

how are you going to finish it Fiberglass??

should be cool

don't forget the cup holders:thumbsup:

Thanks Blake. I know what you mean about the rock crawler. I was looking at it and thinking I could add a couple axles and a RC motor and I'd have a mini crawler. I was originally planning on using sheet metal, but the more I think about it, I like the idea of using fiberglass and then wrap it all in leather.

It looks great Mike. You got some nice tools to play with and putting them to good use I see. I'm glad you remembered the A/C ,it would have been a pain in the butt to think of it after. Nice work..

Thanks Wayne. Yeah I remembered at the last second. I was actually mocking up the frame, looked over and thought 'oh yeah, the AC'. That would've sucked if I forgot about it.

MIKE!

WHERE ARE THE CUP HOLDERS???:D

Looks to me like you're having way too much fun!:cheers:

Don't worry...the cup holders will be there. I'm thinking about getting a couple aluminum ones from Eddie Motor Sports. Just not sure if I need the large ones or if the medium ones will work. And, yes I am having fun building this.

Mike
Looking good!! You could always start a side business designing roll cages for rodents, squirrels and such? Just kidding.

:lol: :lol: Thanks.

70rs

03-30-2011, 12:27 AM

Mike,
Very nice work so far on the console...
Try your local marine supply store for cup holders. Most sell aluminum ones that lok good and wont break the bank. No shipping B.S. either. :)

scherp69

03-30-2011, 08:37 PM

Mike,
Very nice work so far on the console...
Try your local marine supply store for cup holders. Most sell aluminum ones that lok good and wont break the bank. No shipping B.S. either. :)

Thanks Eric. I didn't even think of that. I went to one of the local boat places today and they had some nice stainless steel ones. I had them order a couple in and hopefully they will be here tomorrow.

70rs

03-31-2011, 03:54 PM

Thats great. Im glad that worked out for you.
You realize we will want pictures of course right?

scherp69

04-12-2011, 06:07 PM

Got more done on the console today and yesterday. First thing I did was mock it up with some carpet and underlay. Found out that it was too high so I took off about 1/2" more. I also had to make some modifications around the a/c unit. It will be snug now, but once it gets bolted down, it should look good. The other issue I found was regarding the depth of it. I was talking to a friend of mine who manages a electronics store. For the head unit I want to put in, he recommended close to 10" depth. Well I had a bit of ways to go. I got it to about 9 1/2". I was looking at the specs of the Alpine units, they are just under 6 1/2" deep, then wiring. I think I'll be good with it now.

I also spoke to an upholsterer about getting it wrapped in leather. After taking with him, I've decided that overall it will be easier to wrap it in sheet metal first, then leather. As much fun as it would have been trying fiberglass, I think it will be less headaches, now and in the future, with sheet metal.

Here's some pics.

Added to the front section

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000892.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000893.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000895.jpg

I think I might try and move the upper part in a bit to make it on more of angle so I will be able to see the screen better once it's in.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000898.jpg

Got the two pieces connected

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000899.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000900.jpg

I'm going to have the ebrake handle sunk in a bit

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000903.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000904.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000906.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000907.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000910.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000915.jpg

And the most important part.....................................cup holders

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000911.jpg

What do you guys think so far?

I was also looking at the GTO seats. I finally got them hooked up to a good battery and made sure they were all the way down. I find they do sit quite high. Has anyone found a way to get them lower and still keep the power options. Couple things I was thinking to gain some room:

Move the base tight up against the bottom of the seat

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000921.jpg

I'm also thinking about cutting down the foam on the bottom part. Right now there is almost 6 1/2" of foam. I'm sure I could get rid of a bit.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000919.jpg

Anyone else have any ideas?

GregWeld

04-12-2011, 06:31 PM

Cup holders are absolutely CRITICAL!

EEEEEEEEEEHHHHHHHHHHHAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA :thumbsup: :D

67rstbkt

04-13-2011, 08:55 AM

That's looking real good; that console gives me some ideas for mine. I have the same seats and was thinking about maybe trying to switch to a manual track assembly to lower them some. I'm a ways off from interior, so I guess you'll just have to be the test subject on this for now....

waynieZ

04-13-2011, 09:09 AM

The console look great. Just remember if you tilt the top in to view it better it will bring the lower back corner of the head unit closer to the floor and make the depth seem shorter. You might have to raise the front of the unit so you can tilt it back. Just something to think about. Nice work.

scherp69

04-13-2011, 05:45 PM

Thanks guys. And thanks Wayne, I'll keep that in mind.

Got a little bit done today. Moved the shifter back into it's original location. I like it better there. Also had to cut a few pieces out and I made the ebrake hole.

I know the one side is a little bit off, but it's a one off piece. It all can't be dead on. Plus with the leather, it will never even be noticeable.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000925.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000927.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000928.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000929.jpg

GregWeld

04-13-2011, 05:47 PM

I think you're doing great Mike!

I would agree with your earlier thoughts about putting the deck head at more of an angle for better viewing.

It looks great!

tones2SS

04-13-2011, 06:03 PM

Great job Mike. Looks good. Can't wait to see it come together.

waynieZ

04-13-2011, 07:57 PM

Its looking great . No one can say you didn't build that from scratch, thats for sure.

ModernMuseum

04-14-2011, 02:28 AM

That console is sick! Really nice work. Mind telling me where you got the cup holders? I'll be building one soon and would like to implement those. Thanks.

scherp69

04-15-2011, 05:02 PM

Thanks guys. When I started building the console, I wondered if everyone would like it. Guess I got my answer. I'm glad I decided to make it out of metal though. I don't think, actually I know, it wouldn't have been as easy to fine tune and make the changes that I've been making to have it exactly how I wanted.

Got a little bit done today. Had a lazy day, so wasn't much.

Made the angle for the stereo better to see it. I ended up taking off 3/4" at the top and brought the bottom out about an inch. That way I figured I wouldn't loose too much room for wiring. I'm really going to have to watch myself though if I'm hard shifting. Not a whole lot of room between the shifter and stereo now.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000940.jpg

I then put the cup holders in place. I think I'm going to put them there as I still have to put the Vintage Air control underneath the stereo. I would still like to find some cup holders that are a bit smaller.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000939.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000938.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000944.jpg

And to answer the question about what cup holders they are, I just went to one of the local boat shops and they brought them in for me. They were about $18 each. Here's the brand.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000937.jpg

Back to work in the morning, but hope to get back out to the shop next Thursday. Will update as usual.

GregWeld

04-15-2011, 06:14 PM

Better! :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

Your comment on "smaller cup holders" is blasphemes! :D

andrew5

04-15-2011, 07:23 PM

lookin good!!!

67Ruckus

04-17-2011, 06:29 AM

Hey just a thought... how close is your elbow to the armrest portion of console when you shift into the aft gear positions?
I looks really good. I made one out of wood, then covered it with foam and leather looking vinyl on the sides. I then put some aluminum diamond plate on the top to cover the stapled down vinyl.
I'm excited to see how your's looks when it's all done! I might have to redo mine after swapping to a T-56 and I just got a welder, so your way might be doable for me now.
Keep it up!

jschaecher

04-21-2011, 08:04 AM

looking good:thumbsup: I would have never thought to do the console like that are you going to fiberglass it or wrap in leather? keep up the good work

jschaecher

04-21-2011, 08:12 AM

scherp69

06-23-2011, 08:01 PM

Thanks for the comments guys. I haven't had a chance to do any more work on the seats. I still hope to use the fronts, but I think it might take a fair bit of work and customizing to do it. I'll keep you updated when I do.

Well time for an update. It's been a while. Unfortunately I haven't actually gotten much done on the car. Been working a ton of overtime (good for parts though) and other things going on. I took two weeks off from work to spend time working on the car. I go back to work on Saturday and I ended up working on the car about 6 hours during my holidays. Oh well, here's what I did get done.

Started stripping the trunk lid. I want to start working on the gaps.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010013.jpg

The trunk was in really good shape with only a little rust starting along the top where it would sit near the window channel.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010016.jpg

So I cut out a couple spots and welded in new metal. The rest cleaned up with the die grinder.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010022.jpg

And that's all I've gotten done. :(

I sold the stock doors from car (thanks again Jeff). Now I'm committed to going with doors from a 73 or 74. Still trying to find a pair that aren't really expensive. I also sold the door skins that I bought (thanks again Tyler)

But onto the good part of the update. It was that time of the year again. PARTS RUN!!!!! I got a few of the parts over the past week and the rest I picked up today.

Here's today's haul:

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010029.jpg

Finally got my stainless bolt kit from Prodigy Customs. Better late than never. Pretty thorough kit.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010028.jpg

Billet Specialties a/c louvers

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010026.jpg

Sold the QA1 shocks and decided to get....

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010010.jpg

This things are sweet. I only have picks of the back ones, but I did get them all around. They are the single adjustable. Got them for Speed Tech.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010019.jpg

I really like how they have the bolt holes. They swivel and adjust if the bolt is on an angle at all.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010021.jpg

Some of you may have saw that I sold my FAST 102mm intake. After doing some more research and seeing results of how it has done, I found that it really wasn't worth the money. If I kept it, it would have cost me another $500 for the throttle body and I would still have to get injectors and fuel rails. So I sold the intake and with the money I got:

A LS3 intake taken off a 2010 Camaro. Got it from Hennessey Motor Sports for $200 on Ebay. It included the stock injectors, fuel rails, intake bolts and gaskets. Can't beat that for $200. I'm going to sand it down and paint it body color

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010044.jpg

A LS3 throttle body. Was also new and taken off a crate motor. I ended up getting a really good deal on the intake as the guy I got it from bought a few of them from Ebay. He then ported and polished it and powder coated it chrome. If anyone is interested in getting one or having yours powder coated, here's a link to his thread on LS1Tech.com: http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/gen-5-camaro-external-bolt-tech/1422592-ls3-ported-polished-powder-coated-throttle-bodies.html Mine is the one he used in his pics on the thread. Here's some more pics of it that I took.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010024.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010023.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010025.jpg

scherp69

06-23-2011, 08:02 PM

Got some polished aluminum billet rails. They will look good with the body color intake. I got these from Ebay also from a company called Custom Built Motors: http://stores.ebay.com/Custom-Built-Motors?_trksid=p4340.l2563 They were really good to deal with. Pretty good deal too. I think I paid $200 for everything in the pic.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010072.jpg

Not bad...for the money I got for the 102mm intake (plus I think $50), I ended up with the intake, injectors, bolts, gaskets, throttle body and fuel rails. I'm glad I sold it.

I've also decided to get rid of the VVT on the motor. I'm still not sure if it's the right decision, but like so many people have said, it's still an unknown and one more thing to go wrong. So I got the parts I need for the delete:

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010037.jpg

The cam is a custom grind. I ended up getting Patrick Guerra to design one for me. I had never heard of him until I started looking for cams. Very highly recommended on LS1Tech.com as well as a few on here have used him. Here's a link to his site: http://www.guerragroup.com/camshaft_help.htm

Here's the specs on the cam. Patrick said that it will be a good pro-touring cam and should have a nice wide power band. It should easily make 540-550hp at the crank.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010038.jpg

I also got an order from Summit.

Decided to get a sanding block kit

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010063.jpg

I've been trying to figure out a way to strengthen up my steering column so it feels more secure. I might end up using this to help

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010062.jpg

Lokar oil dipstick

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010061.jpg

Crane LS3/L92 spring compressor

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010059.jpg

Taylor spark plug wires. Also had to get LS style boots.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010056.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010058.jpg

Comp Cams trunion upgrade kit

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010054.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010055.jpg

MSD starter and ARP bolts. I didn't realize that MSD includes new bolts with their starters

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010051.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010052.jpg

Also got a box from Jegs. It was mostly tools. I got a 68 piece screw driver set (never have enough), T style allen keys, a padded cushion for lying on the ground and I've wanted to get a new body panel hammer kit so I decided to get the Eastwood professional kit

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010030.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010031.jpg

scherp69

06-23-2011, 08:03 PM

And I got some polished ARP intake bolts. I was told they weren't going to include the bolts with the intake, so now I have two sets

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010033.jpg

I've heard that Mustang guys with TKO's have really good luck with MGW shifters so I thought I'd give one of them a shot. It's a short throw shifter

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010041.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010042.jpg

I also got the longer shift handle as I'm still working on the console and I didn't know which one I would end up using

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010043.jpg

I also ordered a shift knob from them. They are really nice. I was supposed to get one that had the 5 speed layout on it, but they sent me one that says GT on it. I've emailed them and will hopefully get the 5 speed one soon. Here's what they look like

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010068.jpg

American Autowire Highway 22 kit. Got it from Mike at Musclerodz. This kit is very thorough.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010046.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010049.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010048.jpg

I took advantage of the sale that PTS wheels had on Clayton Machine Works pedals. I wasn't going to spend the money for these, as they are not cheap, but I could not find a stock 68 Nova clutch/brake pedal assembly anywhere. I had bought one from Classic Industries a few years ago, but sold it. They were still waiting for a new supplier to get some in. They didn't know when they would have any so I thought I'd get the nice ones. It has a matching pedal pad for the DBW pedal

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010034.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010035.jpg

And finally......

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010064.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010066.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010067.jpg

It includes a Corvette DBW pedal

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010065.jpg

I hope to actually get out to the shop tomorrow and spend a bit of time working on the car. Not sure what I'll do, but I have a lot of parts to put on :yes:

Vegas69

06-23-2011, 08:08 PM

Two weeks off and 6 hours of work on the hot rod with this pile of parts? :D I bet you are itching to get out there....

waynieZ

06-23-2011, 08:44 PM

Nice haul on the parts, Now you need the most precious thing TIME! Sweet load of parts

Musclerodz

06-23-2011, 10:04 PM

now that is a load of goodies. have fun!!!!!

Ron in SoCal

06-23-2011, 10:06 PM

New parts...YUM :thumbsup:

GregWeld

06-23-2011, 10:28 PM

Mike ---

I only have ONE THING to say....

EEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA

70rs

06-23-2011, 11:36 PM

Nice load of goodies there Mike!

I would be interested in taking any of the duplicate fasteners off your hands if they go up for sale. (intake and starter bolts.) And anything else not being used. Let me know if you decide to sell some things.

scherp69

06-24-2011, 06:51 PM

Two weeks off and 6 hours of work on the hot rod with this pile of parts? :D I bet you are itching to get out there....

Tell me about it. I'm tempted to take another two weeks off so I could spend some more time in the shop. Unfortunately we are short staffed right now and I don't think I can take any more time off until August or September.

Nice haul on the parts, Now you need the most precious thing TIME! Sweet load of parts

now that is a load of goodies. have fun!!!!!

New parts...YUM :thumbsup:

Mike ---

I only have ONE THING to say....

EEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA

Thanks guys. And Wayne you are so right...now I need the time to actually get some work done.

Nice load of goodies there Mike!

I would be interested in taking any of the duplicate fasteners off your hands if they go up for sale. (intake and starter bolts.) And anything else not being used. Let me know if you decide to sell some things.

Thanks Eric. You'll be the first one I contact when I decide to get rid of them, which I'm sure I will.

I did get out to the shop for a little while today. Got the trunk bolted on and will start doing the gap work next week. I know some people have said that if the quarters were put on 100% correctly, than there should be no gapping issues. Well I guess mine weren't quite 100% correct and need a little work. Oh well, it's all a learning experience.

I put the front shocks on. I forgot to take some pics of the rears installed. I'll try to remember to next time I'm in the shop.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010074.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010075.jpg

With all the new parts, I decided to put the new shifter on first. That way I could continue with the console.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010078.jpg

With the MGW shifter, it will definitely hit anything in the cup holders

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010083.jpg

I think I'll end up putting them in front of the shifter. I'll mount the LCD a little higher up in the console and will put the Vintage Air controller under the screen

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010084.jpg

Definitely want to find some different cup holders. I would like to find some that have a hole closer to 3". The ones I have are just over 3 1/2" in diameter.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010085.jpg

70rs

06-24-2011, 07:11 PM

There is a good excuse to buy a lathe.....mill your own cup holders!:D

TheBradshaw

06-25-2011, 09:15 AM

Mike, Now that you have the Clayton pedals, what do you think of the surface where you put your foot? does it seem slippery at all?

Ps. The cable you sent me looks great.:thumbsup:

tones2SS

06-27-2011, 06:45 PM

Very nice Mike. Parts galore!:thumbsup:

frojoe

06-27-2011, 06:55 PM

Taylor spark plug wires. Also had to get LS style boots.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010056.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010058.jpg

I'd greatly appreciate the part numbers for these bad boys, I'm doing a coil pack relocation and want to have 90*/90* custom length wires, but can only find 90*/45* or 45*/straight.

Cheers!
Joe

scherp69

06-27-2011, 07:27 PM

There is a good excuse to buy a lathe.....mill your own cup holders!:D

Don't tempt me. I've seen a few on Craigslist and was like..hmmmmmmm what I could do with that

Mike, Now that you have the Clayton pedals, what do you think of the surface where you put your foot? does it seem slippery at all?

Ps. The cable you sent me looks great.:thumbsup:

Glad the cable worked out. I haven't really looked that close at the pedal pads to be honest. I'll take a closer look and post a couple close up pics.

Very nice Mike. Parts galore!:thumbsup:

Thanks

I'd greatly appreciate the part numbers for these bad boys, I'm doing a coil pack relocation and want to have 90*/90* custom length wires, but can only find 90*/45* or 45*/straight.

Cheers!
Joe

Here's the part numbers from Summit:

TAY-83251 THUNDERVOLT UNIV WIRES RED
TAY-46067 LS1 BOOTS - these are for the 90 degree boots. I have the part number for the other angles at home if you want them. I'm just at work right now.

frojoe

06-27-2011, 10:31 PM

Here's the part numbers from Summit:

TAY-83251 THUNDERVOLT UNIV WIRES RED
TAY-46067 LS1 BOOTS - these are for the 90 degree boots. I have the part number for the other angles at home if you want them. I'm just at work right now.

No that's perfect, I've been having a heck of a time trying to find LS1/LT1 coil-end boots that are 90* bend, the vast majority were 45* or straight but flexy, didn't know if I wanted to risk it and try to over-bend the 45* ones to 90*.

Thanks!!!
Joe

supernova70

07-07-2011, 11:34 AM

scherp69

07-12-2011, 04:04 PM

WOW, Mike you are an inspiration. You have given me the confidence to mini tub my 72. I am trying to figure out how much to narrow the rear end. I didnt read in your postings it you did. If you dont mind could you go back over wheel dimentions and how much you narrowed the rear end. I am looking to get a min. 15 x 10 or wider corvett rally inside the wheelwell.
By the way your Nova is looking awsome. Looking forward to more postings.

Thanks. Glad my project has helped you. Checking out all the builds on here is the best way to get inspired. It helps show that a lot the work can be done by anyone. I know if I can figure it, anyone can.

Haven't gotten anything done on the car, but still have a quick update. Last week I found a set of 73-74 doors on Craigslist. Unfortunately they were in Tacoma (south of Seattle). Talked the guy and he told me that they were in great shape. Took Friday off work and the step daughter and I hit the road. What I didn't realize was that apparently Friday is not a good day to travel as the traffic is horrible. Found that out really quick. Glad we decided to make a night of it and had already booked a room in Bellingham. Left at 9am and didn't get back to Bellingham until 7pm. Total round trip back home was 1100 kms. But he was right, the doors are in awesome shape and I traded him a couple parts and some cash. Worked out to $125 a side and they have glass and all the regulators. The ones that I had found in my province were going to cost me about a grand for just the shells. Well worth the trip.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010092.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010094.jpg

They still have the stock weather stripping on it

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010098.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010101.jpg

Very little rust. All surface rust

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010095.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010100.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010099.jpg

Even the stock decals on still there

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010104.jpg

That's it for updates on the car. The gentleman I bought them from has a huge 68-74 Nova parts collection and is always trading, selling and buying parts. He showed me some of his collection. He pretty much has everything you could think of. I think he said his storage shop was 20 x 40. He's also building a 68. I told him about the site, so hopefully we see him on here soon. If anyone wants his contact info, pm me. He was okay with sending guys his way.

I decided to do some work on the shop. For a while now, I have wanted to add cupboards in the shop. I had storage shelves, but it still looked so cluttered and messy. I picked up two cupboards a few months ago but never got around to putting them up. Princess Auto had some other ones on sale so I picked up four more. So the past 2 days I have been reorganizing my shop. Here's some pics.

Here's two before pics

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1000976.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010090.jpg

And as it looks now.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010105.jpg

I also added a spring loaded air hose reel. I'm going to move it a little higher though. It's a little too low.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010106.jpg

I'm still going to add one more on the left

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010107.jpg

If anyone's looking for new cupboards, the ones from Princess Auto are quite nice. And they were only $69 each. The Black and Decker ones were $99 each and they don't feel as sturdy. I added a bunch of screws to them and they feel way better.

scherp69

07-12-2011, 04:04 PM

Here's a few more shots of the shop

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010110.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010109.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010108.jpg

There's still a few things I want to do to the shop. Eventually I want to pull down all the interior walls. It's basically a 1/4" plywood and is cracked and has holes all over. Plus I hate the yellow. I'd like to redo all the walls with gyproc and paint it white. This summer I'm also going to get a new man door. Right now the door is an interior wood door. It's seen better days. I'm going to get a 6 panel steel door and add a dead bolt. The only problem is it's an off size (29 1/2" wide) so it will be a custom door. I would rather order the same size door cause if I went any bigger, I would have to cut the cement base to make it fit. Too much work. Hope to get some work done on the car next week as back to work tomorrow.

GregWeld

07-12-2011, 04:13 PM

Geez Mike -- now to stay up with you I'm going to have to completely remodel the shed!!

Looks good buddy!

frojoe

07-12-2011, 06:01 PM

Jealous of the garage space, way bigger than mine! And love the doors, I want to do that once mine is up and running, the vent window-delete looks so much cleaner than '68-'72! Good stuff!!

-Joe

waynieZ

07-12-2011, 07:40 PM

The cabinets look good in there. Nice score on the doors.

scherp69

07-26-2011, 08:30 PM

Thanks guys.

Last week I decided that I was going to put the new doors on and align the gaps. Since my car is a 68 and the doors that I have are from a 73-74, I need to take apart the 68-72 hinge and put the side that bolts to the car onto the door. The hinges on the 73-74 are welded on. I was going to use Goodmark hinges but I found out that they will not interchange with stock hinges. The pins on the Goodmark ones are smaller. So I sent Clarence (the guy in Tacoma) an email and have a stock set of hinges coming. I also now have a new set of Goodmark hinges for a 68-72 for sale. PM me if interested.

Since I could do the doors, I thought I'd start on the motor. First thing, out cam the motor and trans.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010116.jpg

I did some sand blasting a while ago, which as you all know makes a huge mess. I noticed on the scatter shield that I missed taping off one of the holes. I decided that since it was easy to pull the motor and trans now, I would do that and make sure that no sand got into the clutch.

Sand on top of the trans

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010117.jpg

There was only a small amount of sand in the scatter shield. It may not have caused any problems, but it's the peace of mind thing knowing that it's all been cleaned out

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010119.jpg

Got the motor back on the engine stand

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010122.jpg

First thing was to pull the stock crank pulley. Of course my SBC harmonic balancer puller wouldn't work, so I bought 2-3 jaw puller. I'm sure it will come in handy again

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010123.jpg

Since the threaded rod on the puller wasn't long enough, I put a bolt in the hole where the crank bolt goes and used it to set against

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010129.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010128.jpg

Pulley is off

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010130.jpg

Took the stock timing cover off. This is what the VVT system looks like

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010131.jpg

Close up of the VVT cam gear and sensor

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010136.jpg

Took off the oil pump

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010134.jpg

Had to take off the tension on the stock timing chain tensioner

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010144.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010145.jpg

Pulled the cam bolt. Here's why they call it a one bolt cam

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010141.jpg

scherp69

07-26-2011, 08:31 PM

Took the timing gear off

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010147.jpg

Took the cam plate off

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010148.jpg

In order to get the cam out, I had to take off the rockers and remove the push rods. Nice thing with this motor, once the bolts are removed, they all come out at once

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010151.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010152.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010153.jpg

I put the cam bolt back in place to use it as a handle. I also found a neat trick online. Turn the cam over a few times by hand and it will lift all the lifters up. To keep them from coming back down when you're pulling the cam out, you can put some 1/4 dowel into the holes to keep them from falling. I didn't have a dowel so I use some 1/4" round bar.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010154.jpg

Next thing I had a pile of parts that I had removed

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010156.jpg

Time to put the new 3 bolt cam in. I used three of the valve cover bolts as a handle on the front of the cam. As recommended by Comp Cams, I used their install lube

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010157.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010158.jpg

And it was in

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010159.jpg

Cam cover back on

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010160.jpg

Timing chain and oil pump back on

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010163.jpg

After I put it all back together, I realized that I used the wrong bolts on the cam. I have ARP bolts that I'm going to use instead of the valve cover bolts that I put in there. I've also decided that I'm going to replace the stock timing chain tensioner with a LS2 style timing chain dampner. I've read that there are pros and cons to both. I talked to some guys who leave the tensioner on and some that replace it. The reason I decided to take off the tensioner was that in some rare cases, it falls apart and some of the plastic falls into the motor. So I called GM and got them to bring a dampner in. It won't be in until later this week.

Here's a close up of the tensioner

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010149.jpg

Here's the dampner that I'll be switching it to

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/dampner.jpg

I also decided that I was going to take a shot at degreeing the cam. This also meant taking off the heads. I guess since everything else was off, I figured taking the heads off wouldn't be a big deal.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010164.jpg

scherp69

07-26-2011, 08:31 PM

I bought a cheap degree wheel and mounted it to the crank. I also tried to use my dial indicator and made what I thought would work as a piston stop.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010167.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010165.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010166.jpg

After spending a few hours trying to degree the cam with the setup I had, I realized that it would be much easier if I had a proper degree kit. So I ordered a Comp Cams LS degree kit today. Hopefully will be here next week. This is the kit I ordered: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-4942/ Not from Summit, but a local place.

Since I have to wait for the dampner and degree kit to get here, I thought I'd swap the valve springs.

The ones on the left are the stock and the ones on the right are the new double springs that I'll be using

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010177.jpg

Finally got to use my new Crane valve spring compressor. It can also be used with the heads on the motor

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010170.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010171.jpg

It's very easy to use, just take a ratchet and turn the nut

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010172.jpg

Remove the valve locks

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010179.jpg

Loosen the nut and remove the tool. Then take the springs off

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010173.jpg

First I had to take off the stock valve seats and seals. I just used a pair of pliers and pulled the seals off. They come off quite easily. Just turn them a bit. The stock ones are one piece. The new valve seats are separate from the valve seals

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010174.jpg

New valve seats and seals place. Installing the new seals was alot easier than I thought it was going to be. I put some oil on the inside of the seal and on the head where it sits. I then used a deep socket, I think it was a 12 mm one, that sat on the metal part of the seal. I then tapped the seals into place. Once they are in place, you'll hear a thud sound. You'll know it when you do it and they are in place.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010176.jpg

Here's the tops for the valve springs. The stock ones are on the left

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010184.jpg

And the new springs are on. To put the new springs back on, just have to do the same as taking the springs off.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010183.jpg

After I got both heads done, I called it a day. Tomorrow I plan on installing the rocker trunion upgrade kit. I'll post pics once it's done.

56pickup

07-26-2011, 09:12 PM

looking good! :thumbsup:

syborg tt

07-26-2011, 09:22 PM

Great Update Mike.

Thank you for all tips and photo's

waynieZ

07-27-2011, 10:42 AM

Nice progress Mike. your diving right in. :thumbsup:

scherp69

07-27-2011, 08:12 PM

Thanks guys.

Marty - hope the pics help. I know I've found a few threads that have helped me so much by having pics. I figure if I can post the pics and it helps someone else, that's great.

Got the trunion upgrade done today. For anyone that doesn't want to spend the money on roller rockers, but wants something a little better than the stock rockers...highly recommend this kit. I noticed the difference right away. The stock ones feel so flimsy compared to trunion kit. The stock ones don't feel very tight at all and rattle quite a bit. With the upgrade kit, they are way smoother moving and there is no play at all. On to the pics.

They were actually very easy to install. Took about an hour or so to do the full set of 16. All you need is a vice or a press. I'm sure most guys will be doing with a vice, that's how I did mine.

First thing is to pop out the stock trunion. The instructions say to use a socket underneath and use a hammer and bar to the knock them out. I found it easier to use my vice. I used a 15/16 socket on one side an a 9/16 socket on the other

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010188.jpg

You'll notice that on one side of the rocker there are some tabs that are not on the other side. I put the 15/16 socket on the side with the extra tabs to help secure it in place

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010189.jpg

The 9/16 socket fit nicely to push the old trunion out

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010190.jpg

Then just tighten the vice until the bearings pop out. You'll want to keep your hands underneath to catch everything

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010192.jpg

The one thing that I found that was about half of the bearings in the stock trunion were so dry that the needles fell out right away. You can also see the parts that I took out.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010193.jpg

Now you need to put the new bearings in. The only thing with this part is you have to make sure the letters on the bearings stay on the outside. Using the vice I put one side in

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010195.jpg

You only have to tighten the vice until the bearing is flush

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010196.jpg

One side done

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010197.jpg

The kit also includes two thick washers that help with the install. Once you have one of the bearings in, you put in the main piece (I'm assuming that's the actually part called the trunion). You put the other bearing into place. I found it easier to press the second bearing in a bit before using the washer. That way I didn't have to worry about lining up the washer and holding the bearing in place. You can see how you use the washers when installing

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010201.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010202.jpg

Then put a c clip onto both sides are you're done

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010200.jpg

Here's some pics of the differences

First, this is what comes with the kit for each rocker arm

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010198.jpg

Stock bolt on the left, bolt with the upgrade kit on the right

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010194.jpg

Stock bearing on left, upgrade on right

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010203.jpg

Stock on top, upgrade on bottom. You can see from this picture why you need the washers when pressing in the bearings. The upgraded one is quite a bit longer than stock.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010204.jpg

scherp69

07-27-2011, 08:13 PM

Here's the two complete units side by side. I'm sure you can figure out which one is which

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010207.jpg

And the parts left over

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010209.jpg

You can see all the needles from the bearings that fell apart

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010208.jpg

I forgot to add on the last update...I got my new and proper shifter knob from MGW shifters. Looks much better

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010115.jpg

The one thing I find really annoying with buying parts separate from different companies, you have to buy some things separately from GM. 40 bucks for the intake seal and 40 bucks for the throttle body bolts. GM is such a rip off sometimes.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010114.jpg

Not sure when I'll get a chance to update again. I'm waiting for a few little things that are halting progress (hinges, degree kit, and a few others). Plus we plan on painting the house next week so likely won't get into the shop for a bit.

Jims78elky

07-27-2011, 08:26 PM

Great pictures and information! Its the little details like this that sometimes we let slide buy in rushing to finish a long term project car, I can only imagine the difference these updates would make in the long run. Thanks for opening my eyes a little further, and for sharing.

:thumbsup:

DriverzInc

07-28-2011, 05:50 AM

Awesome progress Mike! Everything looks really good!

waynieZ

07-28-2011, 08:46 PM

Wow what a difference on the new trunnions over stock. Those should triple the strength.

scherp69

09-14-2011, 11:52 AM

Thanks guys.

Unfortunately I haven't had much time to work on the car. It sucks when life gets in the way. Over the past month or so, we've painted the house and the shop. It really needed to be done. I don't think it's been painted for 20-25 years. I'll post some pics of the difference when I take some new ones. I'm also still waiting on the cam degree kit and the head gaskets. The cam degree kit is shipping out today so I should have it tomorrow morning. The head gaskets should be here any day. I've also received a few other small parts, but haven't had a chance to put them on. I'll post pics of everything when I have a better update for work done.

I do though have a good update for today though. I had Shawn Mascoll do a rendering for me. Turned out great. Now I just have to get the damn car done!!!! Here's his website if anyone is interested in getting him to do one: http://mascolldesigns.com/

Here it is:

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/1968_Acadian_Render_Mascoll_Designs.jpg

GregWeld

09-14-2011, 12:00 PM

Great looking Mike!

I too, had a new roof and paint done this summer... sure made a big difference.

LanceL

09-14-2011, 12:05 PM

Mike, that looks great!!! Like it

frojoe

09-14-2011, 12:38 PM

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/1968_Acadian_Render_Mascoll_Designs.jpg

DUDE. So uncool.

I'm so jealous.

Looks fantastic.

70rs

09-14-2011, 03:18 PM

Looks great Mike.

Those gaskets should be there by now. If they don't show today please let me know.

waynieZ

09-15-2011, 02:28 PM

Great looking rendering.

andrew5

09-15-2011, 05:20 PM

that rendering is sweet!!!!! :cheers:

scherp69

09-15-2011, 06:41 PM

Great looking Mike!

I too, had a new roof and paint done this summer... sure made a big difference.

Thanks Greg. Yes it's amazing what a couple coats of paint can do.

Mike, that looks great!!! Like it

DUDE. So uncool.

I'm so jealous.

Looks fantastic.

Looks great Mike.

Those gaskets should be there by now. If they don't show today please let me know.

Great looking rendering.

that rendering is sweet!!!!! :cheers:

Thanks guys. I'm very happy with the way the rendering turned out.

Well the cam degree kit and the head gaskets both arrived today. I decided to head out to the shop and take another shot at degreeing the cam. It's actually not so bad when you have the proper equipment.

So here's the degree kit I got. It's a LS specific kit and is Comp Cams part number 4942. Here's how it comes:

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010246.jpg

And here's what's included:

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010247.jpg

First thing I did when I got out to the shop was to hang up some inspiration. I plan on getting a blown up print done and framing it. It will also hang in the shop.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010244.jpg

A couple guys on the forums brought it to my attention that I didn't put any assembly lube on the bearing portion of the cam. So while it was still easy to get at, I pulled the cam out and put some more lube on.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010248.jpg

Put it back together with the new LS2 timing chain dampner.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010250.jpg

Then it was time to degree the cam. I found a really good website that shows step by step how to degree a cam using the same kit I have. It looks like it was done by Car Craft Magazine. Was very useful: http://xtremecarzone.com.au/lofiversion/index.php?t805.html

Here's another website that I found very helpful for replacing the cam shaft: http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=125123

One more site I found very useful was: http://ls1howto.com/ It has all the bolt torque ratings for the entire engine as well as several other good articles.

First thing I put on was the crank socket. This thing works really well and sure makes turning the crank over a breeze.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010251.jpg

At the end of the socket, there is a threaded part where the degree wheel goes. Very easy to adjust. Loosen the nut, move the wheel and tighten it back up.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010252.jpg

Uses a half inch wratchet

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010254.jpg

Degree wheel on. I didn't take a picture with the pointer in place, but I mounted it with a bolt to the hole just to the upper right of the wheel. You bend the piece of copper that's included with the kit to 90 degrees to make a pointer.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010255.jpg

I'm not going to repeat what the step by step article says (if you're going to degree your cam, well worth reading it. I even took my laptop out to the shop and followed it) but here's a pic of the piston stop in place.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010256.jpg

The dial indicator with in place. They include a couple different size ends for where it screws into the block.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010262.jpg

So after following the step by step instructions on the website I posted, I came up with 71 degrees before max lift and 154 degrees after max lift. That gave me a lobe centre angle of 112.5. I compared that to the lobe centre angle on my cam specs. It should be 112. I'm happy with that. Unless someone tells me that I shouldn't be. I checked the numbers about 5 times and came up with the same results each time.

I go back to work tomorrow so won't get chance to get back into the shop until Tuesday or Wednesday. I also ordered a new oil pan gasket, timing cover gasket and front seal today. Next week I should have the engine back together and will hopefully get it back into the car (hopefully for good....again).

Here's a couple other parts that I got over the last couple weeks:

Complete hinge rebuild from Classic Industries:

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010243.jpg

Close out covers for the firewall. They will cover up the ugly subframe bolt openings. I have them on, but forgot to take a pic. They really clean up the firewall. Got these from Mike at http://musclerodz.com/

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010242.jpg

scherp69

09-15-2011, 06:42 PM

I mentioned that we painted the house and shop last month. Thought I'd post some before and after pics:

House before:

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/PICT00282-1.jpg

After:

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010220.jpg

Shop before:

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010221.jpg

After:

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010266.jpg

waynieZ

09-15-2011, 07:33 PM

Wow your a busy guy. I'm glad someone caught the no lube on the bearings, no use taking a chance. Your doing a great job on the car.

70rs

09-15-2011, 08:01 PM

Hey Mike, you missed a spot on the side of the shop.:D

GregWeld

09-15-2011, 09:08 PM

Looks great Mike!

jschaecher

09-16-2011, 08:22 AM

Mike outstanding as always.... who did your rendering?

scherp69

09-18-2011, 10:16 AM

Wow your a busy guy. I'm glad someone caught the no lube on the bearings, no use taking a chance. Your doing a great job on the car.

Thanks Wayne. Yeah and I'm not sure why I didn't put any one the first time. One of those oversights. I'm just glad it was so easy to pull the cam back out.

Hey Mike, you missed a spot on the side of the shop.:D

yeah yeah yeah :D

Looks great Mike!

Thanks Greg.

Mike outstanding as always.... who did your rendering?

Thanks. It was Shawn Mascoll. His website is www.mascolldesigns.com

mrgm

09-19-2011, 10:46 AM

looks like your rounding 3rd base on this project. thank for sharing.

Did you ever get that trunk latch back in?

Also what has been the most frustrating part for you about working on the car?

scherp69

09-23-2011, 04:13 PM

looks like your rounding 3rd base on this project. thank for sharing.

Did you ever get that trunk latch back in?

Also what has been the most frustrating part for you about working on the car?

Thanks for looking. No haven't got the trunk latch back in. I hope to tackle it soon. I'll admit I've been procrastinating on that part as I don't want to screw up drilling the hole through the floor for the fuel neck. As for the most frustrating part, I'd have to say it's that I have absolutely no prior mechanical training so I get that overwhelming "I'm in way over my head" feeling quite often. That and hoping that I'm doing things correctly.

Got to spend some time in the shop the past few days. Unfortunately not as much as I wanted to. I ended up getting a new wireless router that allows us to print from our laptops wirelessly using an older USB printer. Took a little longer to get set up than I thought as I was having an idiot day and couldn't follow instructions. Enough whining and on to the updates.

Got the motor back together with all new gaskets. Decided to install the intake, throttle body, fuel rails and starter also

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010275.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010274.jpg

Unfortunately the mounting holes are off on the fuel rails. Not sure if I'm going to drill new holes or get different rails. You can see the hole to the left of the bolt.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010276.jpg

The starter fit good. Lots of room

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010295.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010294.jpg

Decided to mount the coil relocation brackets. First had to drill and tap some holes

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010277.jpg

Painted the brackets with Duplicolor rattle can

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010284.jpg

Mounted them in place. I haven't decided which direction I'm going to mount the coils. I'll likely keep them the way they are. If I do, I'll paint the passenger side ones black as I don't like the yellow color that's facing up.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010286.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010287.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010289.jpg

From the side, lots of room for the pulleys to clear

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010290.jpg

As you could tell from some of the other pics, the motor and trans are back into the car.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010285.jpg

Installed the Lokar oil dipstick. Thought I'd put it in now so no debris can get in the open hole

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010305.jpg

The dipstick I'm using is one of their tight seal ones. It actually locks into place and you have to push the release down to get it out

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010307.jpg

scherp69

09-23-2011, 04:14 PM

Now onto some bad news. When I put the motor in, I was doing it by myself. Should have grabbed someone, but I wanted it in now and I've done it by myself several times. Unfortunately though one of the coil mounting bolts did this

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010279.jpg

And it got worse from there. As I was looking at the new gouge I put into the paint, I saw this

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010291.jpg

Unfortunately there are two bubbles a few inches apart. As first I was mad, but the more I thought about it, there was really no point in getting mad. That's part of doing these builds. So I think what I'm going to do is concentrate on getting a bunch of things done over the winter. In the spring, I'm going to strip the firewall and when it's time for paint, I will paint the entire shell at once. Hopefully over the winter I can get all the gaps done. I still haven't decided if I'm going to try and paint it myself or pay someone to do it. The one positive note is that there were a few things that I wish I could have done, but couldn't since the firewall was already painted. This way, I can fix up a few things and don't have to worry about the paint since it's coming off anyways. The worst part of it though...the cost. The firewall cost me about $400-$500 to do. Ouch!!!!

Oh also as promised, here's some pics of the Muscle Rodz firewall closeouts.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010293.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010292.jpg

waynieZ

09-23-2011, 09:24 PM

Mike sorry to hear about the damage. The motor came out nice and looks good in there. Thats a nice place for the coils the wires won't have to be too long. Keep the updates coming.

scherp69

01-06-2012, 07:03 PM

Thanks Wayne.

Well it's been quite a while since I posted an update. Unfortunately haven't gotten much done on the car at all. Had some other projects on the go, lost motivation for a while, trip to Vegas and now am sick. But I'll post a small update anyways.

First, I found out why I ended up with moisture in my paint. I decided to take the plug in the side of compressor out. Found out that I had about 8-10 inches of water in the bottom of my tank. I always emptied out the air after each day, but never thought of actually draining it. That's changed. I fixed the drain that was on the bottom and made it easier to access. Then I was told that most filter systems don't work that great unless they have gone through 50 feet of line first. So I had an extra 50 feet of air line that I ran between my tank and filter. Then it goes into an air reel with 50 more feet. So far it's working alot better.

Picked up a few new tools over the holidays.

One of my cordless drills packed it in, so replaced it with this. Got it for half price.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010346.jpg

Grabbed a new impact socket set which includes deep. Regular price was $220, picked it up for $65

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010347.jpg

A while back I also picked up this mig light from Eastwood. It works really well. Helps light up the area you're working on.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010326.jpg

Well onto the car. I did manage to start working on getting rid of the weld on hinges from the 74 doors and making them work with bolt on hinges.

To make the bolt on door work better, I wanted to get the front bolt area from a wrecked set of doors. Thanks again for this Jeff (a member on a different forum). Jeff cut out the front part of some doors that he had and shipped them to me. What these pieces gave me was a better idea where the holes go and it also gave me the piece of steel inside the door with the threaded holes. I didn't want to put nuts on the inside of the door like I've heard some guys have done.

Here's the pieces I got from Jeff

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010345.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010344.jpg

Once I had them, I took off the brackets which hold the threaded piece of steel. I forgot to take a picture of the actual threaded piece. I'll do that when I do the other door.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010342.jpg

There was also a piece of steel that added strength to the front of the door. I took that off also. Here's what I was left with after some trimming

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010341.jpg

Here's what I have done so far and how I did it.

Door with weld on hinges

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010319.jpg

I cleaned up the area around the hinges

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010324.jpg

Then I bent some 1/4" round bar so it would fit the corner of the hinges. This allowed me to put the new hinge in the same spot as the weld on

Old hinge

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010327.jpg

New hinge in place. When I took the weld on hinges off, I originally wanted to try and take them off in one piece. I very quickly realized that wasn't going to happen so out came the grinder with cutting blade and air hammer.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010328.jpg

You can see that the new hinge is a bit shorter than the old one was. That's okay, it will still work.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010329.jpg

Once the hinge was in place, I used a black felt pen and marked the holes. I then used the front piece that I got from Jeff as a template. I used the holes for the door seals to align the pieces

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010336.jpg

The bolt holes that I marked and the holes in the template piece weren't an exact fit, so I just made the holes slightly bigger. For this I used an air saw as well as a die grinder with a metal cutting tip

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010337.jpg

I held onto the threaded piece of steel and tried the new hinges

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010338.jpg

scherp69

01-06-2012, 07:04 PM

And the door's on the car

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010339.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010340.jpg

I haven't finished aligning the door yet, but once I have it where I'm happy with it, I'll drill a couple guide holes in each hinge so I can put them back in the same place. Once that's done, I plan on welding the brackets that hold the threaded pieces in place. That will be a bit tricky as I need to weld inside the door. Once I have the driver's side door done, I'll post some more pics.

coolwelder62

01-06-2012, 07:20 PM

Awesome job.:thumbsup:

waynieZ

01-06-2012, 07:37 PM

Slick idea Mke, it looks like it worked out great.

GregWeld

01-06-2012, 10:06 PM

There ya go! I was wondering if you'd dropped off the face of the earth?

LOL

Sorry about the paint issues -- but this is always a learning curve... it's just part of the hobby.

Shoulda seen the piping I helped a buddy replace -- all black steel -- and you know what happens when moisture meets steel... so not only did he have moisture he was blowing RUSTY air thru his tools etc.

scherp69

01-07-2012, 09:38 AM

Awesome job.:thumbsup:

Slick idea Mke, it looks like it worked out great.

Thanks guys.

There ya go! I was wondering if you'd dropped off the face of the earth?

LOL

Sorry about the paint issues -- but this is always a learning curve... it's just part of the hobby.

Shoulda seen the piping I helped a buddy replace -- all black steel -- and you know what happens when moisture meets steel... so not only did he have moisture he was blowing RUSTY air thru his tools etc.

No still around. Just haven't had anything to update for a while. Yeah that water in the tank really sucked. Even though it wrecked my paint, it worked out for the better. I ended up butchering the firewall around the steering column so now I get to fix it. Plus it was a good (although expensive) practice round to try my hand at painted. I'm pretty sure the water is also what caused two Ingesoll Rand composite die grinders to just up and die on me. The guy at the tool shop was saying that the composite ones don't hold up to abuse as well as the steel ones. Sure glad I bought the expensive ones only to learn that. He gave me a great deal on some replacements though.

mrgm

01-07-2012, 09:14 PM

ohh boy am i glad this one got an update!!! :thumbsup:

Nice tools.

70rs

01-08-2012, 11:25 AM

Nice job on the door hinges Mike.
Sorry about the damage and paint issues, but like you said now you and address some things on the firewall.
Hope you had a great Christmas and New Year!

scherp69

02-14-2012, 09:21 PM

Thanks guys.

Well it's been a while since I last updated. Haven't been in the shop for a while. Had a block off with the girls out of town a while back, but ended up with a sinus infection and -25 celcius (without windchill) weather made me not want to head out. Well the girls are gone again and I hit the shop.

Thought I'd get the other door done. Weld on hinges gone

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010397.jpg

Template from donor door

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010398.jpg

Template in place

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010399.jpg

Holes marked

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010400.jpg

Drilled some holes

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010402.jpg

Then out came the die grinder with cutting tip

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010401.jpg

After about 20 minutes of sounding like I was at the dentist

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010403.jpg

Before I put the door on, I thought I would rebuild all the hinges first. So had to take the passenger side door back off and did all the hinges.

Here's what you need to rebuild each pair of hinges (one side)

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010396.jpg

For those that want to rebuild their hinges, here are the part numbers from Classic Industies

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010390.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010391.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010392.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010393.jpg

First thing I had to do was grind off the ends of all the pins

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010386.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010387.jpg

Once all the ends were ground off, I used a hammer to pound the pins out. They cam out pretty easy. Once all the pins were out, the new ones went in. It's pretty straight forward though.

scherp69

02-14-2012, 09:22 PM

Before rebuild

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010388.jpg

Rebuilt

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010394.jpg

Decided to replace the spring arms. Since I don't have the tool GM used to split the end of the pin, I decided to weld it in place

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010404.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010405.jpg

The passenger side hinge is pretty basic. You just replace one pin. In the picture that has all the parts, you'll see that the pins have brass bushes on them. The one with the same size bushings is for the passenger side. The one with the different size bushings is the driver's side.

The rebuild of all the hinges went really smooth expect for the driver's side with the spring. It turned out to be quite warn out. I didn't want to get a new one though, so I decided to fix what I had. First I had to run it through the cabinet blaster to get the rust off it. I then noticed that the area around the bushings were quite warn.

One of the holes wasn't that bad so I was able to put the bushing in and run the pin though. This allowed me to figure out where the bushing was supposed to sit on the side that was really warn out. You can see the area around the bushing where it's warn.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010410.jpg

Broke out the welder and built it up

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010408.jpg

After some cleaning up

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010415.jpg

The pin fit nicely. Hinge back together

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010416.jpg

And it works

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010418.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010419.jpg

Called it a night there.

Also made a new purchase recently. I had a 2007 Nissan Murano that I was selling privately. I got a call from a dealership claiming to have a potential buyer and wanted me to bring it in so they could see it. I thought "what the hell, I'll humour them and see what they have to say". Well they got the last laugh. I left that day with a 2011 Ford Fusion. I know I know....it's a Ford. But it's get mid 30's for fuel economy. Can't argue with that. Plus full leather package, awesome stereo, sunroof, etc. It's a really nice car.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010380.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010382.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010383-1.jpg

GregWeld

02-14-2012, 10:49 PM

Nice work Mike!

I've had the Fusion as a rental car a couple of times and really liked it!
Like it way better than the FBI Crown Vic I had for the Grand National Roadster Show... that thing drove like a real POS.

67rstbkt

02-15-2012, 08:52 AM

Awesome progress :cheers:

scherp69

03-02-2012, 05:12 PM

Thanks guys.

Time for an update. Not a huge update, but it's one none the less....and as always lots of pics.

I've wanted to make some 2x4 wheel stands for a while, just needed to actually do it. So I did. The back ones are 18" x 16" and the front ones are 18" x 12". I wanted to add extra boards on the ends just in case the car ever rolls. Here's how they turned out.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010454.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010457.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010458.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010453.jpg

I originally put 2x4's on each end of the front stands but thought it would be better to use some 2x6. Looks better.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010468.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010467.jpg

I also picked up a couple new tools. Aluminum floor jack from Costco. It was only $100 so we'll see how it holds up.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010463.jpg

Also got some rubber pads for both floor jacks

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010466.jpg

The other day I got a surprise in the mail. I got an envelope from the dealership where I bought my Fusion. I opened it up and to my shock, it was a cheque for $1000. I went online and realized that they had a $1000 cash back offer during the time period when I bought my car. So I thought I would treat myself. I've wanted to get a new tap and die kit for a while so I picked up the Irwin/Hanson 76 piece. I forgot to take a pic so this is taken from their website.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/76-pc-machine-screw-fractional-metric-tap-hex-die-set-895.jpg

Well enough of that and onto the progress on the car. I decided that it was time to work on the filler neck. Damn it has taken a while to get it all into place. Here's some pics of how it progressed.

When I first got the Ridetech filler neck with their gas cap, I noticed that down tube was set off to a slight angle to accommodate for Camaros. I wanted mine to go straight down so I ended up cutting it so it could be welded on straight. I took it to a local welder and you can see the butcher job they did on welding it back together.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010420.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010423.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010436.jpg

I decided to use 2" exhaust for the filler tube going through the floor

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010422.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010427.jpg

scherp69

03-02-2012, 05:13 PM

Test fit going through the floor

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010438.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010441.jpg

Once I got the angle where I liked it, I started to fill in the holes in the floor

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010452.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010451.jpg

This allowed me to put the bottom of the tube on and finish it. The tab sticking out is going to be welded to the floor to make it more sturdy once welded into place.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010482.jpg

Once I had that done, I found out that I cut the hole in the floor too far forward. So I had to make a patch. Since the area where the patch was going was rounded, I used a round piece of steel and a body hammer to shape it.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010474.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010475.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010477.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010480.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010471.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010473.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010481.jpg

And here's an idea of how it will look in place. What would you guys suggest that I do to the inside of the filler tube to prevent it from rusting? I'm not sure if I should paint it or not as it will have gas running through it, but I want to try and stop any rust from coming while I complete the car.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010484.jpg

Here's how it will look from the back. The bumper will cover it up

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010487.jpg

scherp69

03-02-2012, 05:14 PM

I also realized that I have never posted any pics of the Ridetech filler cap in place. Here's a few

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010443.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010444.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010445.jpg

I also bought a couple new parts. First thing I got was a LS3 valley cover. I was reading another thread that was discussing PCV valves. I checked my current valley cover and found it doesn't have a pcv tube on it. So I checked ebay and found a 2011 Camaro take off valley cover for $15.95. With shipping it cost me $50 but still a lot cheaper than buying a new one. I also ordered a Norris Motorsports PCV catch can. Should be here next week.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010428.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010429.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010434.jpg

Here's the one currently on the motor

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010432.jpg

I also found on another thread where someone bought some cup holders from a poker supply store. I really didn't like the size of the cup holders that I have, so I checked a poker supply store. I picked up 4 stainless holders for $32 shipped. I can't fit a pop bottle into the new ones, but cans and the bottles of water that we buy fit, so they will do

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010459.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010470.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010469.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010460.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010461.jpg

We're heading to Vegas (yes again...it's just so cheap to go) on Monday so I have a couple new parts waiting for me at the border. I've got new valve covers and my serpentine kit waiting. The nice thing about getting the serpentine kit out of the way is the only two big items I have left to buy is the gas tank and the radiator. It's very very faint, but I can actually start to see the light.

frojoe

03-02-2012, 05:18 PM

Yaya for Tim Hortons! haha

GregWeld

03-02-2012, 05:55 PM

scherp69

03-02-2012, 09:28 PM

You're turning into a regulator fabricator there Mike!

Good for you!

Do you wear your red woolies when you're walking around Vegas? It might keep those card flippers from bugging your with the porno stuff! :rofl:

Thanks Greg. It's funny, I know the fabrication that I'm doing is very minor compared to a lot of builds, but I'm really finding that it's the favorite part of my build. I've even been looking at English wheels even though I have absolutely no clue how to use them. Hell I haven't even used the sheet metal tools I bought last year.

And no don't wear the red woolies in Vegas :D . Some trips I try and get as many cards as I can. This time we are taking the mother in law and i use her as a barrier. She needs an electric scooter to get around so when I don't want cards I put her between me and the flippers. I've tried to get her to take some cards a few times. I'd love to see the look on their faces when and 80 year old lady in a scooter starts taking porn cards. :rofl:

novanutcase

03-03-2012, 09:41 AM

Looking good Mike!!! :thumbsup:

John

waynieZ

03-03-2012, 11:52 AM

Looking good Mike.

454SSguy

03-03-2012, 12:45 PM

It's really inspiring to see these project threads that take place in a garage. Stuff is really coming along too, I am a huge fan of that filler cap too.:thumbsup:

scherp69

03-03-2012, 07:49 PM

Thanks for all the comments guys.

syborg tt

03-04-2012, 09:31 AM

Car looks awesome.

I have a suggestion. Since the filler neck is exposed in the trunk you should consider shrouding it. In the event that you get rear ended fuel could spill in the trunk and that would not be a good thing.

Don't want to see you or your car cooked

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010438.jpg

scherp69

03-04-2012, 12:23 PM

Mopar Steve

03-04-2012, 05:11 PM

syborg tt

03-04-2012, 06:20 PM

Thanks Marty and thanks for idea. I had already thought of making a cover that would bolt to the floor to hide the filler neck. It would be removable in case I needed to access the rubber hose. Is that what you had in mind by shrouding it?

Hi Mike,

That is what I was thinking.

However, I would make sure it was sealed to the floor. Works case scenero is that you would destroy the semi-removable part if you had to get to it.

scherp69

03-10-2012, 10:39 AM

just read your whole build thread. It's amazing to see how far the car has come along. I'm super impressed and you should be proud of what you've accomplished. I was dissapointed though when I got to the last page and there was no more to read. What I mean is, I can't wait to see how the car turns out. Best of luck on the rest of the build!:

Thanks Steve. I am proud of what I've accomplished, I just hope it's all going together properly

Hi Mike,

That is what I was thinking.

However, I would make sure it was sealed to the floor. Works case scenero is that you would destroy the semi-removable part if you had to get to it.

Thanks Marty, I agree and have been trying to figure out ways to do that.

I haven't had a chance to get anymore work done on the car as we were in Vegas last week, but I thought I'd show what I picked up on the way home.

I decided to get Wegner Motorsports new diamond cut serpentine kit. From what I understand, this kit was designed with help from Frank at Prodigy for pro-touring cars. The kit usually comes in black with the diamond cuts for accents, but Casey at Wegner did one for me in polished and it turned out amazing. I talked with Casey a few times and I must say that Wegner has amazing customer service. Would highly recommend them. He even put the kit together once it came back from the polisher so he could send me a picture of how it turned out before it shipped.

On to the pics:

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010495.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010507.jpg

All the goodies that came with the kit. The only part I'm not sure of is the power steering pump. I completely forgot to tell Casey that I was running r&p and am not sure if the high flow pump is the one I need. I read somewhere that I should be using the low flow one. I have an email into Unisteer and Casey to confirm.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010498.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010499.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010500.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010501.jpg

Here's a pic of the pulleys. You can see the diamond cutting on the front accents

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010502.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010503.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010504.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010505-1.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010508.jpg

Not everything, but most of the other parts

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010509.jpg

I also picked up these from Casey. They are very nice for anyone looking for new valve covers

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010496.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010497.jpg

I haven't had a chance to put the kit on yet as I've decided I'm going to paint the motor as soon as it warms up enough, but here's a pic that Casey sent me showing the kit installed. You can see how much the belt wraps around the power steering pulley. This is supposed to help with running wider tires on the front.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/102_5450.jpg

I hope to get some more work done on the car this week and will update when I do.

frojoe

03-10-2012, 10:47 AM

So many nice shiny new parts!! :D

waynieZ

03-10-2012, 11:21 AM

Thats going to be nice up against the body colored engine bay.

scherp69

03-10-2012, 11:44 AM

So many nice shiny new parts!! :D

Thats going to be nice on against the body colored engine bay.

Thanks guys. I know lots of guys don't like polished parts on the motors anymore but I still love the look of a nice polished engine when you pop the hood. I agree Wayne..I think the polished is really going to look sharp with the deep red engine bay. Can't wait to see the sun hit it.

andrew5

03-10-2012, 05:54 PM

looks great!!!

214Chevy

03-10-2012, 07:34 PM

Viola...magic!! I likey!!:yes: :yes:

syborg tt

03-11-2012, 08:19 AM

So your the owner of the this Pulley Set up. I saw it a little bt ago. I like it and I think it's going to look great in your engine bay.

scherp69

03-11-2012, 02:00 PM

Thanks guys. Marty...I'm really happy with how it turned out. Casey wasn't sure as he hadn't planned on doing a polished one. I agree, I think it will look really good in the engine bay.

scherp69

03-13-2012, 07:41 PM

Spent some time in the shop the past couple days. Got some more work done on the console:

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010514.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010525.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010526.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010527.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010528.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010529.jpg

Looks like Mickey Mouse

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010543.jpg

Welded the parking brake bracket from Ironworks onto the floor

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010536.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010535.jpg

When I started doing this build, I had tried welding only a couple times. I've tried to teach myself by practicing and watching videos and reading. Not until today have I had a weld that after words I stopped and looked at it for several minutes. Not that it comes even close to the quality of welds that Ironworks puts out, but maybe since it was a part built and supplied by them it inspired me. I know there may still be some criticism, but I'm pretty happy with this:

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010534.jpg

Swapped out the old valley cover and put the new one with the pcv tube on it in

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010537.jpg

This allowed me to try my new Eastwood digital torque wrench

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010538.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010540.jpg

And I got the Clayton Machine Works brake/clutch pedal assembly installed. Going to mock up the drive by wire pedal soon.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010544.jpg

Got this in the mail today. It's a pcv catch can from Mike Norris Motorsports.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010523.jpg

waynieZ

03-13-2012, 09:29 PM

Everything is looking good, I think the weld looks great. If you were going for the industrial look you could put a backing on the console cage and let the frame show.

scherp69

03-16-2012, 05:04 PM

Everything is looking good, I think the weld looks great. If you were going for the industrial look you could put a backing on the console cage and let the frame show.

Thanks Wayne. I've thought about that. If my welds looked better, I'd even consider just powder coating it and leaving it as is.

Made some more progress on the console the past couple days. I actually think this is the coolest part of the console.

Picked up a shift boot and billet boot ring. I went with the Lokar kit part # 70-BFMB. This thing is sweet.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010548.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010556.jpg

Since the ring is so thick, I wanted to try and sink it into the console a bit. I started with some 1/8" flat stock and cut it to the size I wanted

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010549.jpg

Welded it together

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010554.jpg

Drilled and tapped the holes into the flat stock

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010551.jpg

Added some round bar. The way I added this, I left enough room around the ring to fit the leather (if I still go with leather)

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010552.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010555.jpg

Today I added it to the rest of the console

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010557.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010559.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010560.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010563.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010565.jpg

Tested some bottles of water in the console. It is tight, but I can adjust the shifter some to help give me some extra clearance

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010566.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010567.jpg

Next week I'm going to start working on the storage area lid. I've tried using round bar, but have been fighting with all attempts. Once I used the flat stock, I realized that it will make a good base for the lid. I'm going to drill and tap holes for the hinge bolts. I have two parts done, one piece will go on top of the console and the other will be the base for the lid.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010569.jpg

214Chevy

03-16-2012, 05:59 PM

I'm digging that console!!:yes: :yes:

GregWeld

03-16-2012, 06:40 PM

Give a man a welder and he turns into a fabricator.... :thumbsup:

intocarss

03-16-2012, 06:57 PM

Don't think that shifter ball will clear a Beer can, they're not tapered like the water bottles lol.. LOOKS great though

GregWeld

03-16-2012, 07:01 PM

Don't think that shifter ball will clear a Beer can, they're not tapered like the water bottles lol.. LOOKS great though

RCMP DO NOT -- drive with beer cans in their cars.... DOH!! :wow: :rofl:

intocarss

03-16-2012, 07:04 PM

RCMP DO NOT -- drive with beer cans in their cars.... DOH!! :wow: :rofl:

Canadians always have beer eh

waynieZ

03-16-2012, 07:52 PM

It looks good Mike. Nice work, keep at it.

70rs

03-16-2012, 09:34 PM

It looks good Mike. Nice work, keep at it.

X2! Looks great Mike. I will be following your lead on this method. I really like how it's turning out so far.

torino420

03-17-2012, 06:13 AM

Great work on that console...WOW :thumbsup:

69x22

03-17-2012, 07:25 AM

Looking good! When I did my console I wanted the cup holders in the same place you have yours but they interfered with the shifter so I had to move them on the dash side of the console. You may want to look into that because there is going to be allot of shifting going on. If you don't have room you may want to move them back or maybe even out like on Greg Welds Nomad.

scherp69

03-17-2012, 11:03 AM

I'm digging that console!!:yes: :yes:

Thanks Marcus. I've been watching your build also. That thing is going to be sick. Are those the Kindig It door handles you have? I was looking at them for mine also.

Give a man a welder and he turns into a fabricator.... :thumbsup:

Thanks Greg. I tell you....it's addictive :willy: :goofy:

Don't think that shifter ball will clear a Beer can, they're not tapered like the water bottles lol.. LOOKS great though

Thanks.

RCMP DO NOT -- drive with beer cans in their cars.... DOH!! :wow: :rofl:

Of course not...we would never break any laws :D :_paranoid :rofl:

Canadians always have beer eh

:cheers:

It looks good Mike. Nice work, keep at it.

Thanks Wayne.

X2! Looks great Mike. I will be following your lead on this method. I really like how it's turning out so far.

Thanks Eric. Can't wait to see yours when you start it. How's the car coming along?

Great work on that console...WOW :thumbsup:

Thanks. It's been a lot of work.

Looking good! When I did my console I wanted the cup holders in the same place you have yours but they interfered with the shifter so I had to move them on the dash side of the console. You may want to look into that because there is going to be allot of shifting going on. If you don't have room you may want to move them back or maybe even out like on Greg Welds Nomad.

Thanks. I don't think I could fit the cup holders in front of the shifter. I'm acutally thinking about moving the shift boot ring forward in case I ever decide to switch the shifter around. The nice thing about the shifter I'm using is I can spin the shift knob 180 degrees so it would give me more clearance around the cup holders. I'm also thinking about adding these to the side of the console as another option for a cup holder. Not sure why, but this pic looks horrible. If you go onto their website, you'll get a better idea.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/2657.jpg

They look nice. When not in use, they push back into the console and when needed, they just pull out. http://www.autoloc.com/catalog/Interior-Accessories/Cup-Holder/BWCH/Custom-Cup-Holder

214Chevy

03-17-2012, 11:23 AM

Thanks Marcus. I've been watching your build also. That thing is going to be sick. Are those the Kindig It door handles you have? I was looking at them for mine also.

No, thank you Mike for the compliment. Yes, they are the Kindig It door handles. They are expensive, but are a very nice, high quality piece. Nice heavy, thick metal. I recommend them for anyone willing to spend the coin on them. They are not cheaply made. Keep the pics coming on your console. By the way, I voted "leather" on the pole.

John510

04-09-2012, 09:21 PM

Awesome! I see you picked up one of the new Wegner kits..

Love the car. Your right we have similar taste:thumbsup:

scherp69

04-10-2012, 04:08 PM

No, thank you Mike for the compliment. Yes, they are the Kindig It door handles. They are expensive, but are a very nice, high quality piece. Nice heavy, thick metal. I recommend them for anyone willing to spend the coin on them. They are not cheaply made. Keep the pics coming on your console. By the way, I voted "leather" on the pole.

Thanks Marcus. I've decided that I am going to do it in leather. I can't see it really fitting with any other finish.

Awesome! I see you picked up one of the new Wegner kits..

Love the car. Your right we have similar taste:thumbsup:

Thanks John. I'm really happy with the way the Wegner kit looks. Plus it's nice when they are very few out there. I don't know if there are any other polished kits out there in the new diamond cut.

scherp69

07-30-2012, 07:56 PM

Well it's been quite a while since I've posted an update. To be honest, it's actually been quite a while since I got to spend any time in the shop. Unfortunately I haven't had any overtime in almost a year, so no new parts. Finally getting overtime again so hopefully will get some more parts in the near future. I also spent quite a bit of my free time renovating our basement, something we have been talking about doing for a long time. I did get out for an hour here and an hour there, but didn't really have much for an update until now. Not a huge update, but an update none the less.

Painted the motor a few months ago. Forgot to post pics though. I painted both the engine and tranny with POR15. I started with a base of regular silver POR15 and then 2 coats of their engine enamel. Color is aluminum.

Before:

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010122.jpg

After:

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010618.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010617.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010648.jpg

I then started installing the Wegner serpentine kit. When I installed the ATI dampner, I just used a threaded rod, some washers and a nut. Added some never seize to the inside where it slid over the crank and it went on very easily.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010676.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010678.jpg

The instructions for the dampner say to torque the crank bolt to 240lbs. I bought this tool that allowed me to lock the motor in place. As you can see from the second pic, I had to modify it to clear the engine plate that's attached to the scattershield. Here's a couple links in case you want one: http://ls1tech.com/forums/parts-classifieds/1547001-flywheel-flexplate-holders.html and on Ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/290714524113?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010718.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010734-1.jpg

Bolts in place of the starter

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010717.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010720.jpg

Over the past few months, I've slowly been putting this together, and finally got the belt put on today. Very happy with how this kit looks.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010721.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010728.jpg

I installed the Norris Motorsports PVC catch can and the Wegner Motorsports valve covers

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010729.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010731.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010732.jpg

scherp69

07-30-2012, 07:57 PM

Here's where I hooked up the catch can

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010735.jpg

Here's a link to the catch cans if you're interested in one: http://www.mikenorrismotorsports.com/Billet_PCV_Catch_Cans.html

I hope to start tackling some of the fab work over the next few weeks that I've been putting off for quite a while. Will post updates as I go.

69x22

07-30-2012, 08:15 PM

Looking good.

Ron in SoCal

07-30-2012, 08:31 PM

Great update Mike!

GregWeld

07-30-2012, 08:40 PM

Awesome Mike!

Coming along really nicely!

:cheers:

frojoe

07-30-2012, 10:35 PM

Yay progress!! That block looks real nice being all one silver color!

waynieZ

07-30-2012, 10:43 PM

The motor looks great in there. They make a nice accessory system.

scherp69

09-17-2012, 05:02 PM

Thanks guys. I really appreciate the comments :cheers:

I wanted to work on something that I would see some good progress and results, so I decided to work on getting the seats mounted. If you don't recall or don't want to read back, the seats I'm using are out of a 2005 GTO. I plan on using the front and rear seats. I've already done some work with the fronts, so I thought I would work on the rears.

First I had to cut out the center portion of the seats

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010744.jpg

Did some test fitting

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010747.jpg

I'm going to build some arm rests to fill in the gap

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010758.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010754.jpg

As you can see, I'm definitely going to have to cut them down as they sit pretty high

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010755.jpg

After looking at the area behind the seats, I decided to replace the sheet metal as I didn't like how far it sat forward at the bottom

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010749.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010751.jpg

So out it came

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010807.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010808.jpg

I'm glad I decided to do this as it allowed me to finish welding the deep tubs in an area that I couldn't get to before

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010809.jpg

I decided to replace the sheet metal in 3 parts. Started with the center section. I know the bead rolling looks like crap. It's my first time using a bead roller and it's not the easiest to keep straight when you're doing 18g sheet metal by yourself. No one will ever see it anyways and it adds strength.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010813.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010815.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010815.jpg

Made some pieces for the side

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010819.jpg

scherp69

09-17-2012, 05:03 PM

It's not completely welded in, but you get the idea. So much for my finished underside. I have a bunch of welding that will ruin the under finish even more. Guess I'll be redoing quite of bit of the underside. Oh well.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010822.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010829.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010831.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010833.jpg

Next I'll get everything welded into place and then will start on getting the seats mounted.

GregWeld

09-17-2012, 05:23 PM

It's a process and a learning experience... and you're doing this all by yourself.... so GOOD FOR YOU!

:cheers:

scherp69

09-17-2012, 09:46 PM

It's a process and a learning experience... and you're doing this all by yourself.... so GOOD FOR YOU!

:cheers:

Thanks Greg. Even though it doesn't look that clean, I am quite happy with how it looks. And you're right it is quite a process. I didn't expect it to be as hard as it was to do. By the time I was done that center piece, I was sweating like a pig. Although it didn't help that I did two of the lines the wrong way and had to go over them again to get them the right way :mad: But like you said, it's definitely a learning experience.

:cheers:

GregWeld

09-17-2012, 10:16 PM

I'd have left them done the wrong way and said I intended it to look that way! :rofl:

I've watched guys run bead rollers and they make it look like child's play.... of course I'm also certain that there's lots of ruin sheet steel that were scrapped!

It's like welding or anything else we do.... it takes doing... over and over... or you have to be willing to empty your checkbook buying more steel...

I'm just glad you did it - were willing to post it up - and not be afraid to show you're learning like all of us have done. I've got barrels of stuff I've just thrown out... valve covers I've attempted to TIG vents in that are scrap... and.. oh well you get the picture.

:cheers:

Knaller

09-18-2012, 02:33 AM

Look from the other way Mike, the side pieces are almost perfect and the middle one is ok for what it's needed. Plus, you did all that work yourself! :thumbsup: Not ecactly what everyone can say about his car! :unibrow:

waynieZ

09-18-2012, 02:01 PM

Nice job Mike! Keep plugging at it.

scherp69

10-03-2012, 04:59 PM

Thanks guys.

Small update today. Got the welding and grinding done on the sheetmetal behind the rear seat.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010845.jpg

I also decided that I wanted to cover up these holes

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010838.jpg

So I made these

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010841.jpg

And welded them into place

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010844.jpg

Next up I will start mounting the rear seats. As always, will post pics as I go.

GregWeld

10-03-2012, 05:39 PM

scherp69

10-26-2012, 03:52 PM

That's how they're built Mike! One more thing crossed off the list.... then tackle the next job!

I thought maybe the RCMP would have little green men that would come finish some of that stuff while you slept - but apparently you haven't found them either!
:D

Nope definitely no green men. One thing I've learned after 10 years with the Mounties...if you don't do it yourself, they certainly won't help you do it. But that's another story for another day :D

I've started trying to fit the rear seats. If anyone was wondering if it will be a lot of work to make the GTO seats fit....yep it's a lot of work.

When I started to fit the seats, I wanted to try and use a hook system similar to the way the stock rear bench seat fits. That didn't work very well, so I decided to try and idea that came to me while I was laying in bed.

I checked the fitment of the seats. They actually fit pretty good. I will have to trim a bit of the foam where it meets the mini tub, but that should be it for the bottoms

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010858.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010859.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010857.jpg

First things that had to go, the stock brackets

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010864.jpg

Then I took the bottom of the seat apart. It comes apart very easily

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010861.jpg

You just have to undo all the parts where it snaps over the round bar, then pull the leather back

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010862.jpg

Then the skeleton just pulls out from the foam

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010863.jpg

I forgot to take a picture of it, but in the above photo you'll see a black plastic thing attached to the frame. I cut that out and welded in a new piece of round bar as that it used in mounting the seat into a GTO.

As for mounting the seats to the floor, I decided to make it so the seats could slide into place, then I will add some nuts to secure the seats in place. I bent some round bar into the shape I wanted and tacked the pieces onto the frame. I bent them so they will fit the shape of the frame, but also sit level to the floor.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010883.jpg

After I had both tacked in place, I put the foam and leather back on to see how they fit

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010868.jpg

Here you can see how it looked without the new pieces added to the frame. If you notice the differences between the two frames, that's because the second photo is the driver's side frame and I'm working on the passenger side one.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010869.jpg

Next I made some brackets that I will weld onto the floor and the new pieces will slide into. I haven't actually welded the brackets into place yet. If you're wondering, the brackets are made out of 18 gauge steel and sit 2 1/4 inches high.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010871.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010872.jpg

Here you get the idea of how they will slide into place. There's quite a bit of space left above them to compensate for when the foam is back on as well as carpet, underlay and sound deadner

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010874.jpg

scherp69

10-26-2012, 03:53 PM

I will also build up the area where the seat sits with some sheet metal just to add somewhere the seats can sit on. I will also drill some holes somewhere and weld on some nuts behind so the seats will bolt into place.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010881.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010879.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010875.jpg

Next week I hope to get the brackets welded into place and start building up the below the seats. Will post pics when I get there.

SEVENDY2MALIBU

01-22-2013, 11:47 AM

frojoe

01-22-2013, 01:38 PM

I demand updates, DAMMIT!!!

:)

scherp69

01-22-2013, 03:51 PM

just went through this entire thread. your nova is coming out badass. I just picked up a 72 chevelle malibu at the end of last summer. I plan on doing most of the work myself just like your doing,except for paint and body wich will be done by my dad. can;t wait to see more pics of your build. :thumbsup:

Thanks!! Nice compliment that you're first post on the site was to comment on my build. Welcome to the site. Can't wait to see some pics of your build.

I demand updates, DAMMIT!!!

:)

I wish I had some updates Joe. It's been quite cold here the past couple months that I haven't even felt like firing up the heaters. I did get out for a couple hours today, but nothing worth taking pics of. It was nice to get out for a while and get the bug to want to get out again. Will post some pics next week as I'm picking up some "motivation" Tuesday or Wednesday.

Your build is looking good. I really like the new parts you've added. I really like that trans stool...that's sweet.

frojoe

01-22-2013, 07:36 PM

Looking forward to reading updates on this "motivation".. And thanks for the compliments! I get a bit bored and unmotivated when the heaters in the garage have been running for 1-2hours and I can still see my breath and the tools are freezing!

scherp69

02-05-2013, 05:11 PM

Well time for a bit of an update. Unfortunately I haven't made any progress on the car itself, but I have the next three days off and hope to spend some time out there as long as my cold doesn't get any worse.

I have gotten some new parts and tools though :D:D

A couple months ago, our local tv station had a fund raising silent auction. I picked up a $500 gift card for a local tool shop for $250. With it I bought:

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010884_zps17fc50d7.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010887_zps44ef16b6.jpg

and this

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010925_zpsbb898f28.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010886_zps3881aa9d.jpg

I have always wanted a router and thought why not. It will come in handy when time to do the trunk and stereo enclosures.

Last week I spent a few days in Vancouver with my wife. Was nice, she was there on a paid work trip so I got to go for free. I was close enough to make a parts run, so I picked up this stuff:

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010908_zps18ed127b.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010909_zps819e3d69.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010910_zps12519bbd.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010911_zps2ac963da.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010913_zpsb1f1e662.jpg

I got all that stuff from www.purechoicemotorsports.com I was very happy dealing with them. I will be getting all my stainless lines from them also. I also plan on getting a couple Rigid bending tools to go with the Imperial one

From Summit I picked up:

Some palm ratchets

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010915_zpsc7ce6a3d.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010916_zps957a521d.jpg

Some long handle ratchets

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010917_zps7a672b29.jpg

A Billet Specialties Optima battery tray. I know I'm no where near putting the battery in yet, but I want to fab a spot in the trunk to put the tray so that's why I got it now

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010907_zpsee74aae3.jpg

scherp69

02-05-2013, 05:15 PM

From Spohn I got a driveshaft safety loop. This one is for a newer model Camaro, but I've seen this one used on a Nova before and it fit nicely

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010919_zps43ade93b.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010918_zps711e8c9c.jpg

And finally through Matt's Classic Bowties, I got this stuff

DSE subframe connectors. I sold my Hotchkis ones and thought I'd get these. I originally wanted to get these ones, but already had the under side of my floor done and didn't want to wreck it so I got the Hotchkis ones. I've since done so much welding on the floor that I'm going to have to redo the under side anyways, so thought it was a good time to get these.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010923_zps753ef47b.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010924_zps0ba66920.jpg

Also through Matt, I picked up some Ring Bros's stuff

Clutch reservoir

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010920_zps23a2d458.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010921_zps5bcbfe72.jpg

and finally, Ring Bros hood hinges

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010922_zps641a5f8a.jpg

I will post the progress on the car as the week goes on.

GregWeld

02-05-2013, 06:01 PM

Well.... didn't we just bust the bank!

:G-Dub: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

waynieZ

02-05-2013, 09:05 PM

Wow what a haul!! Very Nice and helpful haul at that.

scherp69

02-08-2013, 12:54 PM

Well.... didn't we just bust the bank!

:G-Dub: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

Thanks Greg. It wasn't too bad. I'm sure with you're bank, you wouldn't have even noticed :D

Wow what a haul!! Very Nice and helpful haul at that.

Yeah it was a nice haul. Too bad the tools are going to sit for a while until I get to use them. Oh well, they will be there waiting for me. How's the Camaro coming along? Have you had a chance to get out to the shop lately?

I made some decent progress on getting the rear seats mounted. It may not seem like much, but it's been time consuming and they are alot closer to being mounted. Well one side anyways. Yes it's been a major PITA, but for some reason I've found it quite enjoyable. I've actually been able to use some of my new tools.

On a side note before I post the pics, for those that are using the new Photobucket and don't like the fact that they took away the easy links, if you go into your settings there is a box you can check off to get the easy links back. I just found it this morning. Now it's like the old one where you can just click on the IMG link and not have to go into each photo to get it.

Onto the updates:

I found my leather was getting quite dirty, so I decided to take it off the seats. It came off very easily. As shown before, the bottom is held on with plastic clips that snap over the round bar. Once all the clips are off, the leather is held on with velcro

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010949_zps4220a74a.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010948_zps9f72e7d7.jpg

First thing I did was add some sheet metal to where the back of the seat will rest. This will give it some more support

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010926_zps92c84a44.jpg

Next I realized that when the seat was sitting on the floor, there was a large part of it that had no support underneath it at all. This is due to the way the floor is. You can see under the left side of the skeleton that most of it is sitting in the air

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010937_zpsb976da4b.jpg

With this, I decided to make the floor more level. I built a new section to raise the floor out of 16 gauge sheet metal. I also found out that an Ingersol Rand air sheer is not designed to cut 16 gauge.....gotta buy a new one now :mad:

Here's the new section

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010940_zps4c43e32c.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010933_zps9404dcb5.jpg

This pic gives a good idea as to what I was talking about with the floor being unlevel

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010934_zpsd0747601.jpg

I also added a brace in the center of the new section

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010942_zps95156aff.jpg

It sits on the floor a lot better now. I've also had to modify a few sections of the skeleton to make it sit better. I didn't take pics of all the modifications as it would be different from car to car.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010931_zpsd79400e7.jpg

I decided to use round bar to make front mounts instead of the sheetmetal ones that I had made. I will add some rear support bars to these later.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010945_zpse4292486.jpg

scherp69

02-08-2013, 12:55 PM

At the rear of the seat, I'm going to weld some bolts onto the floor and they will slide into the two pieces on the outside. The middle piece slides into the upper part of the seat. With these pieces, you'll just have to hook the front of the seats into the mounts, slide the rear of the seat over the bolts and tighten it down.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010947_zps0687531f.jpg

Here's with the rear part of the seat in place. You can see how much I need to cut the rear section down to make it fit better. Sits way too high

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010943_zps7101ae8d.jpg

aany001

02-08-2013, 06:31 PM

Wow Mike you have been busy. The car is coming along nicely and I love the rendering of the car it looks amazing!

scherp69

03-18-2013, 07:51 PM

Wow Mike you have been busy. The car is coming along nicely and I love the rendering of the car it looks amazing!

Thanks Steve. How's yours coming along. Noticed you haven't updated in a while.

Have some updates. I've still been working on the rear seats.

I finished up the floor on the driver's side. Once that was done, I put the two skeletons in place to see how they fit.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010956_zps98d6559d.jpg

Once they were in place, I decided that I would need to cut them down. I decided to take 4" out of the back. I cut one frame down and here you can see the difference in height between the two

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010978_zpsd1e5c44f.jpg

I started by putting the frame onto the work bench.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010996_zps0cbe667b.jpg

There were a few areas that needed to be cut out for it to sit flat

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010998_zpsa90e7290.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010997_zps0dd84635.jpg

Once those sections were cut, I marked the frame where I was going to take the 4" section from. I decided to take it from the center as it was nice and straight

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010999_zpsbd37bbe2.jpg

Before I cut the frame, I put it back into the foam and marked the foam where I would need to cut it

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1020001_zps531f21e5.jpg

Then I cut the frame and I was left with two sections

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1020003_zpse6cab3d8.jpg

I then welded the two sections back together and added some more round bar for strength

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1020008_zpse2ed4a30.jpg

Then I started on the foam. I ran the lines around the foam as to where I needed to cut

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1020002_zps422aaf7f.jpg

Using a few exacto knife blades, I cut the section out. You will find that cutting foam with an exacto knife, the blades dull very quickly

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1020009_zps72ca6da9.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1020010_zps4f7dc34e.jpg

scherp69

03-18-2013, 07:52 PM

Using some upholstery glue, I glued the two pieces together

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1020011_zpse30d6c73.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1020015_zpsabd55bf1.jpg

I then decided to move the velcro strip where the seat covers fit in the center. I started by marking the section 4" down from where it used to be

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1020017_zpse9825be2.jpg

I then used an exacto knife to cut out the section. Once it was cut out, I glued the foam I just cut out into old spot and glued the velco into the new cut out strip. I was hoping that I wouldn't have to take the leather covers into an upholstery shop, but it looks like I will have to get them to make some modifications. I might move the velcro strip a bit up, but have decided yet.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1020018_zpsd97e4f27.jpg

Once I got both sides done, I put them in to see how they fit. I like!!!!

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1020019_zpsc2378c59.jpg

From behind

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1020021_zpsc37e8cb1.jpg

Now that I had them cut down to where they fit better, I started to make the mounts for them

I welded some modified bolts onto the floor to secure the bottom section

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010976_zpsfa26794e.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1020036_zps005bd913.jpg

Then for the top section, I welded on some bolts that will go through the rear piece of sheet metal and I will put nuts onto the bolts from inside the trunk

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1020039_zpsc5ccc22e.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1020037_zps8e8098dc.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1020033_zps439065f5.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1020034_zps08af9c8d.jpg

scherp69

03-18-2013, 07:52 PM

Here you can see where the bolts come through. I think I need to get some longer bolts as once I add sound deadner, they might not be quite long enough. I will also weld a piece of flat stock or large washers on the back to add some more strength to where the bolts come though

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1020040_zps422995f1.jpg

I just have a little more to do on the driver's side and both seats will be mounted. I am then going to start working on a console to go between the seats and arm rests on the sides to hide the deep tubs.

I've also spent a bit of time reorganizing the shop. I added a shelf and moved the stereo

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010993_zps72a1da59.jpg

Which allowed me more room to actually use my brake

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010995_zps7e5c672a.jpg

I also found I was hating having to unwind and them rewind up extension cords and trouble lights. So I got some new retractable stuff. I also replaced the retractable air hose with a new Flexilla set up

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010992_zps260a781b.jpg

This is so much better. Especially being right above my car.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010990_zps2fb2bd60.jpg

Got this from www.toolrage.com It's a 54 light LED.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010991_zpsfb0ad46f.jpg

I also bought a new bracket to mount my Highway 22 wiring harness in the trunk. I originally bought one from Ironworks, but HPI Customs came out with one that has mounting brackets and more room for relays

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010983_zpsa8c5a876.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010984_zps454b3af7.jpg

I'm going to mount it on the driver's side, but just put it here to see how it would look

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010988_zps0aecd835.jpg

I also got a Highway 22 trunk mount kit from Tyler at HPI Customs

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010962_zps3d8502db.jpg

One other thing I did was swap out most of the male hose fitting on my air tools. The local tool shop had swivel fittings on for just under 5 bucks. They make a world of difference. I can actually lay my air tools down without them sounding like they have an air leak. It also probably helps that I bought a 2 foot lead hose to add to the end of my air line. It also has a swivel end on it.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010952_zps86f34878.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1010953_zps1fda9d3b.jpg

I hope to get out to the shop again tomorrow and finish up the driver's rear seat and start on the console. Will post pics.

E.rodz

03-18-2013, 08:14 PM

good to see you are still working on this! hope things start coming together for you!

GregWeld

03-18-2013, 09:22 PM

Give a man a welder and he can make almost anything!!

Looking good Mike!

Todd in vancouver

03-18-2013, 09:42 PM

Hey Mike, thought of you the other day when I saw a used car rotisserie on CL here at the coast if you are still thinking of getting one. Car looks awesome and keep the pictures coming.

waynieZ

03-20-2013, 09:22 AM

Very Nice Mike, you've been a busy guy! I think taking the height out of the backs of the seat was a good idea. Nice job.

frojoe

03-20-2013, 11:11 AM

Holy crap.. great progress!!

scherp69

03-20-2013, 04:38 PM

Thanks for all the comments guys. Unfortunately nothing to really update from yesterday. I got the drivers seat side seat mounted and made a few changes. I started on the center console, but nothing really pic worthy yet. On a good note, I found some manual seat sliders for the fronts which are pretty close to the length I needed to bolt right on. Will have to drill a couple new holes but I think they will work great.

Todd....thanks for keeping me in mind. Not really close enough yet to think about the rotisserie. Unlike last time, I want to make sure everything that's needs to be done is done before flipping it.

scherp69

03-27-2013, 05:32 PM

Got some work done on the rear console.

Started with bending some pieces of round bar

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1020043_zpsfa009be3.jpg

Tacked them to the car where I wanted them to be

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1020048_zpsa0f5fa69.jpg

After some more work, I ended up with this

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1020049_zpsace31b59.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1020052_zps725c00da.jpg

Mocked it up in place with the seats

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1020053_zps12104619.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1020054_zps2afe4eb3.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1020056_zps0c3ec276.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1020060_zps6fb24f47.jpg

Here you can see how everything will attach

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1020063_zps105e6fd1.jpg

And with my other round bar creation in place

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1020067_zps961b94a5.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd68/scherp69/P1020064_zps95a967ee.jpg

As with the front console, I plan on wrapping it with sheet metal and then wrapping the whole thing in leather or vinyl. Next up I will be working on the sides of the rear seats.