Quote:
Originally Posted by AWDPete
While I am learning too, I do believe that none of the arms will correct what the GS mod does. To bring the car up to modern geometry specs you need to do onlyONE of the following along with geometry corrected arms:
A: do the Gulstrand mod
B: use tall balljoints, although I have seen both upper and lower extended bj - and at differant lengths. Not sure what is 'ideal'.
C: use the ATS tall spindle
Is this correct guys?
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Tall ball joints or tall spindles achieve the same thing as the Guldstrand Mod.
The idea behind all of these is to get more negative camber as the wheel travels up through the suspension... this is done by increasing the downward angle of the UCA (in towards the subframe) relative to the LCA.
a) Tall ball joints move the ball joint end of the UCA up, steepening the UCA angle.
b) Tall spindle with stock-height ball joint also raises the ball joint end and steepens the UCA angle.
c) Guldstrand Mod lowers the cross-shaft mounting point on the UCA, thus steepening the UCA angle.
I think it'd generally be a BAD idea to combine any of a, b, or c because it would steepen the UCA angle far too much and make the handling twitchy and drastically reduce the tire contact patch, since the tire would tilt inwards (negative camber) so much.
But I'm not an expert, just what I've come to understand thru lots of reading.
I fully welded my stock subframe and have SpeedTech UCA/LCA as well as QA1 coilover conversion, Hotchkis hollow 1.125" swaybar, and Guldstrand Mod.
I also boxed in the very front cross member support, not sure if it'd do much but I could flex the c-channel by hand so any little bit could help torsional rigidity...
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/11903865-post169.html
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/11919822-post170.html
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/11929393-post171.html
Cheers!
-Joe