hydraulic clutch kit
 

looking at this kit for my 68 camaro LS3 -T56 magnum. running a LS7 clutch and flywheel. any advice? thanks

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...01sr/overview/

You need a 4th gen f-body slave, not the slave that comes with that kit. That kit is for a TKO.

There are other vendors that sell only the firewall mount for the MC. That's the critical part. Then you add a Wilwood MC, the f-body slave, and buy a braided hose to run from the MC to the slave. Speedway sells them in various lengths.

Andrew

Have you looked at Bowler's setup?

I like bowlers setup too, any downside to running the MC at 90 degrees? this kit is the only one I've seen like it.

https://www.bowlertransmissions.com/...let-reservoir/

clutch
 

Man, that's a huge up-charge for two DSE parts $25 and $100. Plus a wilwood master. $85 ish.

You're missing quite a few additional parts from Bowler, which are included in the kit linked above:

-Firewall Mount Bracket
-Billet Tilton Angle Adapter
-Tilton Black Anodized Master Cylinder
-Billet Reservoir
-24″ Braided Line
-4AN 90° Fitting
-4AN to -4AN Male Adapter
-Hardware and linkage to attach to factory clutch pedal – if needed

The billet reservoir/braided line/fittings make up the differences.

The McLeod setup is $247 on Summit. It is a complete kit that includes a pedal that is predrilled and is available in GM QD or AN fittings. I am currently installing it on my car. The fluid reservoir is plastic. McLeod offers an aluminum version with a braided hose for an additional $200 if you feel like upgrading.

do you happen to have a link for it?

1434002 for aftermarket slaves. 1434002QD for stock GM slaves. The billet kit is PN 139410. McLeod Tech support stated to use a stock slave for my application. I purchased the LUK LSC265B version for $42 on Summit. This was cheaper than the $120- 150 I see the GM-stamped version selling for. I will be running the RST clutch.

Corey R, did you have to fab up a clutch pedal stop to limit over travel, necessary or not with the Mcleod setup? I'm using the same kit but am not at the install stage just yet. Leaning towards Ram 78131 hyd. bearing kit myself for TKO.

Great question Simon. I called McLeod tech support to ask them for an answer. They stated the pedal stop is via fluid pressure from the throwout bearing.

Corey, thanks. I hope whoever Tech personnel you spoke to knows his product, maybe they've done the research with their 69 setup and this is accounted for. Maybe I'm over thinking this?
Reason why I asked is because other companies mention pedal stops, here a snippet from a Tilton install procedure.

CLUTCH PEDAL STOP
A positive clutch pedal stop must be used to prevent over-stroking the hydraulic release bearing
piston and the clutch. For access reasons, in many cars it is not easy to determine how far the
master cylinder is being stroked.
The method listed below provides a very effective method for adjusting the pedal stop:
1. Lift the drive wheels off the ground and support the car on jack stands.
2. With the engine off, place the gearbox in first gear and have someone attempt to rotate the
drive wheels.
3. Depress the clutch pedal slowly until the clutch disengages and the drive wheels can be
rotated.
4. Adjust pedal stop to allow another 1/4" of pedal travel. This should provide clean release of
the clutch. Do not stroke the pedal any further than this point throughout this procedure,
otherwise you will over-stroke the clutch

Anyways check in with us/ me and post your progress.

Simon -

Those instructions appear to be for a Tilton pedal which is a very nice piece, but is not included in the master cylinder kit. The factory setup does not have a pedal stop.
The instructions for the Detroit Speed brackets (which use a Tilton MC) state to drill the factory pedal, and there was no mention of a pedal stop. I don’t think factory LS cars came with a pedal stop either.