Guys, I am not giving up. I can't. The big lump of metal in the garage is in the way of everything. HAHA

I hope in the next couple of weeks to have some sort of update. Thanks for checking on this though.

Good to hear

Well, I just looked at my thread because I actually have a day to work on it. I have a quick question if I can get an answer. Also, not sure what has happened to all the pictures. I'll get that straight later.

Here's the question. Working on the quarter, and ready to put it on the final time. What do I need to do with this surface rust?

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps1ebf827f.jpg

Totally up to you bill .
Use a rust converter
Wire wheel and prime
Sand and paint ...
Nothing
I took my quarters off and had the car sprayed with primer so I didn't have to worry about it but , I also had that issue.

Ok, so a long day repairing some areas in the trunk and some inner sheet metal. So the inner fender is ready to be welded on. All clamped up and a few screws holding it in.

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...pss2poggxz.jpg

I've often wondered the same thing. You see the pro shops pulling roof skins off and the inner sheet metal has signifiicant surface (or worse rust). This is usually after the body has been media blasted and is sitting in their nice fabrication area. So I have always doubted that they go back in there and spot media blast it. The other thing that always had me wondering is they will often go to great lengths to show you all the nice patch panels they make and all the places they cut out any indication of rust in the cowls and rockers and glass frames, yet they never seem to address the inner stuff. From what I've been able to gather they seem to just wire wheel it and epoxy it and figure that inner rust won't progress far even in another 20 years and even so it won't bubble up and ruin the paint anyway.

So i'm no expert, but these days what I would do with that is just a quick wire wheel, and then rust convertor followed by POR-15. Accorind to the instructions you don't even need to use a rust convertor although I probably would since its a pretty simple step. Not all the reviews on POR-15 are glowing, but I"ve been using it quite a bit lately and have had really good success with it. I work in a carport and cosmetics and paint have never been my thing, so I often lose patience with prep or have to spary paint in the cold, but the POR-15 has been sticking and protecting everything much better than any spray can. I do have a gun and compressor, but its such a pain in the butt to mix up paint and clean the gun and throw away what I don't use I don't use it too much. Another nice thing about POR-15 is you can brush it on pretty quickly, no need to tape off much because there is no overspray and really easy to see how the coat is doing. Just don't drip it on anything pretty, its very difficult to get off including skin.

Preston, thanks for the input. Yes, i have always wondered the same. How the shop stays so clean, and the work is always perfect. Crap, I probably blew 20 holes in the tunk floor yesterday trying to weld up a cut that I had made.

Just when you think you have it finished, the hole comes back.

Well, I had two days of solid work, takes me too long to do anything due to the second guess nature I have.

Today is spent cleaning the house for the wife because she is dealing with the bus accident we had here in Chattanooga. Her plans were to be off today to get ready for thanksgiving, but that isnt happening.

Say a little prayer for all who are involved in this. Really a bad time.


Also, wanted to add another angle shot to the wheel well.

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...psd4a87521.jpg

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...pss2poggxz.jpg

Looks good Bill, keep plugging away

To your earlier question - - -I blasted the inner structure of my car and sprayed it with epoxy primer. The exception to that was the inner roof structure. I wire brushed and wire wheeled it and brush on a POR 15 like products -- I forget the name right now. I wanted to have everything coated with something, even though it will never sit out in the elements again........

If you clean it up with scotch bright as best you can, a good epoxy primer will stick and protect it pretty well.

Bill, good to see some progress!
I'd consider the epoxy primer/sealer for the inner areas, as suggested.
I was in Gatlinburg when the bus accident happened. No words to describe how tragic this is. Hope your doing well. Happy Thanksgiving brother.