1967 Nova Sedan front suspension

[kadettcqp]

Hello i have just registered in your forum. I am from Denmark in Europe and just bought a 67 Nova 2-door sedan from ebay. I am looking to build really low car with 9x17" on the front and 10x18 on the back. But what is the way to get this car to go low and have really good handling. All the shocks i have found is made for dragracing. I will do some dragracing but i am more interested in having a car that handles good on track and street. We have quite restricted rules in Denmark since it is going to be on the street, therefore i am not able to change the entire front frame as i have seen is a common change. But how low can you go with the original control arms? Or which tubular control arm should i go for? I have also seen some Nova's with height adjustabel front shocks(not airride). Where du you buy these?

The car has a narrowed 9" rear. But where do i find lowering springs for this?

I hope there is someone how can help me a little with these issues.

[novanutcase]

Hi Kadette!

You may want to point this question here:

http://www.stevesnovasite.com

They have tons of information about your car. As far as lowering it and making it handle better short of putting a new front clip that is engineered with better suspension geometry you may want to try these people:

http://www.classicperform.com/

This kit will at least keep your car from driving off the road and will hold an alignment as first and second gen novas are notorious for terrible front suspensions. If you are going to lower your car you can buy drop spindles but they may worsen the handling of your car depending on who you buy it from. You can also cut the front springs but there is a limit because if you go to low you will have rubbing issues.

I don't think, without doing some modifications to the front end, you will be able to get that wide a tire in the front or back. I would say the widest in the front will be a 7" wide and the widest in the back will be 8" without having to do some major modifications like minitubbing.

This is also a good source for info on your car:

http://novaresource.org/

Good Luck!

[kadettcqp]

Hello

Thank alot for the help i will try to ask my question on those forums. I am aware that i might have to do some modification to the front. But the car has a minitub in the back and has 10x15" with 295/50-15 so there will be room in the back. I hope i can get room for the 9" on the front. But i might have to change my wishes for the front then.

[4SpeedGirl]

Front Clip.

I did one on a 67 back at Dominator Street Rods and it was really easy. The stripped down package (no chrome, no polishing) is almost affordible.
They supply new inner fenders that give you much more room in the engine bay.

http://www.cachassisworks.com/

click bolt in clips for chassisworks brand then nova

Good Luck!

[novanutcase]

Hi Liz!

Were you dragging the car? I think Kadette is looking for something to road race with. Do you think the CA clip is up to the task in terms of getting that all important contact patch on the ground at speed in a turn?

John

[4SpeedGirl]

I believe those clips are fairly versatile. Don’t quote me on this but I think they use mustang II pickup points, and there are a lot of parts available for that setup. I think the CW clip’s biggest purpose is to make room for a better style suspension and allow you to tune it to whatever purpose you seek. You can use all sorts of adjustable shocks, tubular control arms with 6+ degrees of caster and room for some good static negative camber. Let me know if I’m off on this, I do not claim to be a nova expert :willy:

[novanutcase]

As this thread goes on, even though Kadette says he wants a road race car, I get the nagging feeling that what he is really looking for is a cruiser that handles well. I think a lot of people in this and other sites see the cars that are being built and don't realize that most of the components these people are putting on their cars are designed for road racing/Drag racing not everyday driving although it certainly can be used that way. I have a few friends that have done this and ultimately removed them from their cars due to ride harshness among other characteristics. A good example would be UCA's. If you install a UCA that can give you excellent negative camber and, as such, adjust it to a 3* camber, for example, it will corner great but you will burn through tires like there is no tomorrow. A better way to set it up for street would be to go with a 1* camber so that you have a nice balance of negative camber and acceptable tire wear but you can do this, usually, with an OEM suspension and not have to go to the expense of an aftermarket clip. Granted, there are many other positive factors other than camber that an aftermarket clip will offer but I have learned that, unless you track the car regularly, you can set up the OEM suspensions, with just a few modifications, to handle pretty well! I guess the question is is it really worth $10,000+ for you to you to be able to shave a couple of seconds off of your lap times for the couple of times a year that you run the car on the track? Kadette, I think the best solution for you would be to drive the car on the track, see what it is that you don't like about the car and then start modifying to improve those qualities if a road race car is truly what you are going for. Otherwise, and especially for your year and model car, I think you would be most happy with a CW front clip with an airide system. Look on their site under the street challenge section. They already have system all set up for your car that has been track tested. Not only will you be able to road race the car but when you just want to show the car you can dump it at the flick of a switch!:thumbsup:

[ironworks]

The laws over seas are alot stircter than here, He cannot change the stock stuff. He can only modify the original stuff. It is crazy. If they reinvent the wheel it has to be professionally engineered and stuff to be considered legal for the road. My Tube chassis truck would never be allowed in the alot of european countries. To far from stock. FYI

Rodger

[novanutcase]

If that is the case then, really, your only option, that I know of, is the CPP kit. Rodger, is there a drop spindle for the Chevy II that doesn't kill the bumpsteer numbers that Kadette can use to drop his ride?

Although........and it wasn't me that told you this! But.....

Is it a one time inspection? If so have them do the intial inspection and do the mods afterwards. Now....if they inspect every year then your screwed but if not........

The following information is for educational purposes only and should only be interpreted as such. Anyone using the aforementioned information is doing so at his/her own risk and I will not be held accountable for whatever outcome may come of this!

[kadettcqp]

Thanks alot for all the reply's!

I am thinking more and more of installing a complete frontclip. I do not know if they will approve this but when the car has been approved i can drive it for 8 years before it has to be approved again. So that might be the right option for me. I guess it is the only option if i want to go really low and still have wide wheels on the front. I saw a complete heidts frontclip on ebay priced at 2400. At this price i would not hesitate to buy such. But what extra expenses can i expect. And how do these frontclip mount to the car. Is it bolt on or do you cut away the old front?

As novanutcase wrote i am not looking for an ultimate racer. I have one car buildt this way. It has to be nice as cruiser to. But is a frontclip the solution i am looking for or will the CPP mini subframe be the right solution?