PDA

View Full Version : wooha.. found an engine


deuce_454
10-26-2006, 08:57 AM
i just accidently stumbled upon an enginebuilder who builds engines from used nextel cup parts.. how does this sound:

355 – 360 cubic inches Compression ratio 11:1 runs on pump gas
Block: Race Prepped Chevy BowTie, 4 Bolt Mains, Splayed Billet Caps
Pistons: Forged Aluminum Alloy, J&E or equal, Bore 4.125
Crank: Billet Sonny Bryant, Stroke 3.335, 32-45 lbs. 1.88 to 2.1 rod journals
Rods: Carrillo or Lentz 6.20” H beam. Carr Bolts
Jesel Belt Drive Timing Set
ATI Balancer
Heads: SB2.2CNC Ported Aluminum Chevy Cylinder Heads w/ Del West 2.150 Titanium Intake Valves, 1.600 Titanium exhaust valves, Comp Cams triple valve springs, Titanium retainers and keys, Copper Berylium Valve Seats, Heads Flow 390 cfm @ .700 lift.
Cast Aluminum Chevy Valve Covers, personalized for owner
Jesel shaft mounted roller rockers 1.70 to 2.00 ratio
Cam: Competition Cams Solid roller, 110 Deg. Centerline, Lift= .706 intake and .630 exhaust, Duration 310 intake and 305 exhaust
Lifters: Crower or equal, true roller lifters
Pushrods: CV or equal 3/8” * 9.050 * .080 wall
Wilson Intake manifold and Tapered 4 Hole Spacer 2.00" Part# 004150
Quick Fuel 850 cfm “Drag Carb”
Moroso or equal fabricated sheetmetal drysump pan
Oil System: dry sump, external pump Barnes or equal

12000 dollars give or take a little

Top Quality Headers from Winston Cup teams. Made of stainless steel and most cost over $2500 new. All are complete with collectors and 4 into 1 collectors have fire cones price 650 dollars

usable powerband 2500 to 9600 rpm!!!!!!!

output 650-700 real world dynoed Hp

this would be going in my 80 malibu.. full ATS/global west suspension, boxed frame and delrin bodymounts, big brakes and wheels..

fatlife
10-26-2006, 10:41 AM
overkill; high mainetance cam, springs, lifters. You could spend $6K on a 450hp small block, and have all the fun in the world with it, and spend that extra 6K on something that you might actually use and not just have to brag about. ;) theres a reason these are called "race motors" and its because they belong in race cars, are you building a race car?

Jr
10-26-2006, 12:35 PM
deuce,
Is there a website?

JUSTANOVA
10-26-2006, 12:58 PM
high mainetance cam, springs, lifters.

as in would have to replace springs/lifters often??

would be fun though, not to mention it would sound badass at 9000+ rpm's :wow:

Blown353
10-26-2006, 02:15 PM
Also keep in mind most of this used NASCAR stuff has the driver's side motor mount bosses on the block milled off for dry sump clearance-- you'll have to run a motor plate. The dry sump will also very likely interfere with your factory frame crossmember, so plan on relocating the pump or notching your frame.

Lots of good used deals on NASCAR stuff. If you put a more reasonable cam in it, use less spring, and keep the RPM's more reasonable, they're great motors even on the street as the valvetrain will live much longer.

Keep in mind that the manifold and runners are very large and designed for continuous high-RPM stuff, so they're usually best paired to lighter cars when given "street duty." They do like RPM's!

deuce_454
10-26-2006, 04:35 PM
deuce,
Is there a website?

there sure is: http://www.musclemotorsports.com/ talked to him.. really nice guy btw.

vintageracer
10-26-2006, 07:35 PM
Their is a LOT of this stuff all over Charlotte. Lot's of GREAT deals on Brakes that could be used on our cars. ALL of it is low mileage, one owner parts!!!

Muscle Motorsports does have a LOT of stuff and a lot of it is old and dated in technology. They are just one of many selling used Cup Parts. They are not cheap in comparison to others who sell in the area. Muscle Motorsports does have a nice facility and the parts displayed for your convience.

You better REALLY KNOW what your looking at as there are lots of "one off" parts that were test parts from Cup cars that make the shelves of these vendors. Pistons are a great example. There are literally 1000's of pistons for sale everywhere in the Carolina's. All high dollar stuff when new with really weird ring and pin locations. Hardly anything you could use on the street. The race teams look at these places as a good way to get some money for their used up parts. Most parts are run 1 or 2 races at most. There is a lot of engine parts for sale. The interesting part is that there are rarely any heads available. The teams want to keep their secrets so we all now know where the power is really made!!

These vendors are a very good source for fittings, wiring, brakes, pads, rotors, exhaust pipes, hoses etc if you are building a G machine. They also have lots of consumable new race stuff on the shelf.

Much of the hardware parts on my vintage race cars are used Cup parts. The best deals are when you are standing there in person. I have bought LOTS of these used parts multiple vendors in person and still would NOT buy any used Cup stuff over the phone without seeing the parts in person.

ccracin
10-26-2006, 08:28 PM
Do you have any names or contact info for the shops? My dad is retired and would love a road shopping trip.

Thanks,
Chad

deuce_454
10-27-2006, 08:08 AM
wow cc, thats really usefull feedback.. guess i got alittle caught up in having an actual cup engine guess i should find a healthy smallblock and enjoy instead..

ProdigyCustoms
10-27-2006, 08:15 AM
That thing will be useless on the street. Torque and power below 5000 will be so low stock Honda's will be kickin your ass. Only way to make the SB2 useable on the street is to add lots of cubes, like 427

BTW, I think Jake has one he may sell.

nitrorocket
10-27-2006, 10:18 AM
If you want to drive it more then 1000 miles per year you will deeply regret it. Like fatlife sad, hug amount of maintance, I had an 18 degree motor for my last one. That is the reason I sold it to a drag racer.

ccracin
10-27-2006, 11:27 AM
Sorry Deuce, when there are possible deals on parts it is hard to resisit. I do actually have some useful information. I had a friend from my circle track days convert an all aluminum SB2 from a dirt late model into a street motor. It didn't work very well. It wasn't even a good boat anchor, it wasn't heavy enough. He dropped the compression to 11:1, put a more street friendly cam in it, changed the valve springs, removed the mag in favor of and MSD, and replaced the alky carb. He had some excellent people tuning on it to no reward. It wanted RPM to make smooth power, but because of the valvetrain changes that wasn't to be. As they say "been there done that", for the kind of money he is talking while not bad for the parts you can build 500-700+hp easily. His engine is now in a drag boat somewhere. Wow I just realized the boat anchor/drag boat referance, that's mildly amusing.