evil zee project update

[evilzee28]

Knowing how you guys like pics of work in progress, here's a few of my '69 Camaro taken a while ago. The body is in pretty good condition really & as parts for it are hard to come by in the UK & the repro stuff doesn't fit too well anyway without a lot of work, I decided to repair all of the original sheet metalwork rather than buy in new. The bottom of the o/s front fender was a bit rusted so I cut it all out & replaced it with new sheet steel, the front of the fender also had a bit of tin worm so that was also replaced. The pics were taken before final metal shaping. As the shell wasn't at the 'shop, I decided to tack weld the fender to the door to align everything up prior to final repairs & it now fits perfectly & is primed ready for paint. :yes:

[evilzee28]

Primed & ready to fit :)

[jannes_z-28]

Great work Nigel! :thumbsup:


Jan

[evilzee28]

Thanks Jan, how's yours coming along?? Here's a pic of the steering wheel centre I made. I'm gonna keep the original RS wheel but have the rim padded & stitched in black leather with this polished aluminium centre to cap it off. I like to make/fabricate stuff rather than just go out & buy it off the shelf, so the car's gonna have quite a few one off touches. :)

[jannes_z-28]

That center looks awesome, I have ideas on homemade stuff myself on some details. Let's see what happens during the winter.

About my car, look here: http://www.lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=6327


Jan

[evilzee28]

Here's a few more update pics. The cross ram will have injection fitted inside the plenum chamber & the carbs will act as throttle bodies when finished, so that it all looks original. The Offenhauser logos have since been removed & a winters foundry casting added,along with the removal of the throttle linkage bracketry, just to fake it to look like a genuine, rare, GM cross ram.:D

[evilzee28]

Here's a close up of the rusty holes around the rear screen aperture. Because it's hard to get body panels here in Britain I decided to cut it all out & weld in new steel.;)

[evilzee28]

here's the new formed steel being tacked into place.

[evilzee28]

All seam welded up ready for the lead loading/body soldering.

[evilzee28]

There was rust around the joint between the 1/4 & hinge panel, so I cut out the rust, formed a new piece & welded in a new section.

[evilzee28]

The car originally had a vinyl roof, which when removed showed very badly pitted/corroded steel. I decided to lead load/body solder these sections to build the steel thickness back up to original.;)

[evilzee28]

lead has been applied & then filed smooth.

[evilzee28]

The hinge panel being leaded & then the finished item having been filed smooth.:thumbsup:

[awr68]

Looks great! Thanks for the pics...we do love them!!

[ten1nchrubbers]

.....

[WicKeD_SS]

Looking great keep us updated :thumbsup:

[Bandit Ls-1]

thats some awesome work man. another one saved!

[evilzee28]

Here's some shots of the 1/4 panel replacement. The drivers side has also been done now & the interior of the trunk bare metaled/repaired & sprayed with original "speckle finish" paint. Just gotta get the repairs finished on the rear end now & get it into primer:unibrow:

[waynieZ]

Awsome job keep the pictures comming, nice job saving those panels

[jannes_z-28]

Good work Nigel:thumbsup:

Jan

[camcojb]

lots of work there, good job!

Jody

[6'9"Witha69]

You have skills! Good job, car should come out great!

[Rybar]

Nice work! :thumbsup: I am liking your EFI cross-ram idea alot. :yes:

[evilzee28]

Here's an update on how things are going. The roof had a lot of corrosion across the front, so it was cut out & new metal welded in. That was then leaded ready for primer;)

[evilzee28]

the cross ram airfilter arrived from the US last week

[evilzee28]

An epoxy primer was sprayed over the whole shell & then a tinted 2K primer over that.

[evilzee28]

The car was flatted & sprayed in Audi "Brilliant red" code LY3J. Once the front sheet metalwork is finished it'll be assembled & then flat/polished for its final finish.

[evilzee28]

Fitted the door & front fender on a few days ago, it feels good to see a whole side in color:yes:

[evilzee28]

Having not done a great deal of work on the car due to other commitments, I thought I'd give a little update on how it's coming along. There was some perforation in the bottom of the Drivers side front fender, so I decided to cut the rust out, re-weld in some new metal & then lead load the repair. Here's a couple of shots of the lead work before the primer coats went on.

[evilzee28]

Having had a load of issues with an ill fitting after market radiator support, I finally managed to get the front end re-aligned properly. It meant having to reduce the height of the aluminum bushes between the support & the front clip, which allowed the fenders to gap correctly with the bottom of the doors. The hood is an original GM cowl induction piece that needs the paint stripping, but at least everything gapped up ok with the hood, slam panel & fenders. I finally made the decision to go with the RS grille as it'll be pretty unique here in Britain. The car's just about ready now to get the drivetrain fitted & then final assembly of all the trim parts Woo Hoo!!

[GHOSTDANCER]

:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :cheers:

[cencal69]

Please go into detail on the FI Crossram. This has been a dream of mine for quite some time, but I beat my brains silly on how to do it. I even thought of fabbing up some round tube runners and mating them to a base of a manifold, but I am not a engineer, and I am broke, so there went that idea. Great work on the Camaro. Keep it up my friend. Take lots of pics of the plumming of the injectors, running of the fuel lines, ect.

I am now living my dreams through you.

[waynieZ]

Paint and body work look great . I would like to know more about the Crossram EFI also.

[evilzee28]

Please go into detail on the FI Crossram. This has been a dream of mine for quite some time, but I beat my brains silly on how to do it. I even thought of fabbing up some round tube runners and mating them to a base of a manifold, but I am not a engineer, and I am broke, so there went that idea. Great work on the Camaro. Keep it up my friend. Take lots of pics of the plumming of the injectors, running of the fuel lines, ect.

I am now living my dreams through you.

Thanks for the positive comments guys :yes: I'm gonna get the engine run in on a single 4bbl first & put some miles on it to shake the whole car down. This'll give some base line figures to work from & see how the crossram compares when it's set up & fitted. I'll keep you posted when it's done:thumbsup:

[evilzee28]

The hood is an original GM cowl induction item but for some reason someone had drilled 46 1/8" holes in it!! :shake: :shocked: Probably to pull out some dents that were in it.

http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff121/evilzee28/DSCF2006.jpg

http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff121/evilzee28/DSCF2003.jpg

http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff121/evilzee28/DSCF1963.jpg

[evilzee28]

The holes were carefully plug welded with the MIG welder to avoid distortion.

http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff121/evilzee28/DSCF2013.jpg


Then a bit of hammer & dolly work, followed by grinding/filing out the welds & hey presto!!! no more holes ;) :lol:Only 37 more holes to go!! :D:D


http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff121/evilzee28/DSCF2023.jpg

[evilzee28]

37 holes have now gone :D:D same principle as the previous post, weld up slowly to avoid distortion & then grind & file smooth whilst hammer/dollying the repaired areas,

http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff121/evilzee28/DSCF2025.jpg

http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff121/evilzee28/DSCF2026.jpg

http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff121/evilzee28/DSCF2029.jpg

http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff121/evilzee28/DSCF2033.jpg



Next I'll post up pics of how I lead loaded the repairs, using the hood as an example, cheers.....Nige

[evilzee28]

I've had quite a few people ask how I did the lead loading on my Camaro, so here's a brief outline on how it's done.

The front of the hood had some small holes in it. I could have cut out the rusted area & welded in new metal, but as it was on the front edge of the hood I decided to lead the repair instead. This cuts down on heat that could possibly distort the flat part of the hood & is an easier/quicker repair, as that area is also multiple skinned. Here's the procedure to lead load/body solder it.

First off all of the paint was removed & the panel taken down to bare metal. I also sand blasted the area to remove any traces of rust left. The metal was then gently tapped down below the surface of the rest of the hood.


http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff121/evilzee28/DSCF2039.jpg


Here are the items you'll need to carry out a lead/bodysolder repair. A blowtorch or oxy acetylene, brushable flux, a stick of solder, tallow (in the large tub, this is rubbed into the wooden paddles to prevent the solder sticking to it), wooden paddles to smooth the solder & a file to file the repair smooth afterwards.



http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff121/evilzee28/DSCF2041.jpg



The area is then brushed with flux ( the dark grey in the pic). This is then warmed up with the torch until it flows molten & is then wiped off with a moleskin cloth or leather (workmens) glove to "tin" the repair. You need to wipe it until all of the grey has turned bright silver in appearance. Keeping it clean is important at this stage



http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff121/evilzee28/DSCF2042.jpg



The area has now been "tinned" & ready for the lead/ body solder to be applied.



http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff121/evilzee28/DSCF2044.jpg



Applying the body solder, the lead stick (not visible in this pic, not enough hands to hold it & take photo) is melted with the blowtorch & pushed down onto the tinned metal until it starts to flow onto the panel. Put enough on until it's just proud of the surface to be repaired




http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff121/evilzee28/DSCF2045.jpg



As the lead is being pushed down onto the panel, you can smooth it out as you go. Dip your wooden paddle into some tallow, this stops the lead sticking to the paddle. You can then smooth the lead out as your applying it in a molten state to the panel. Spread the lead with the paddle just as you would if buttering some bread. The aim is to get it so's the lead is just proud of the panel & as smooth as possible to save time filing to shape afterwards. It goes without saying that if you don't put enough lead onto the panel you'll have low spots in the repair, which will need for you to repeat the procedure again. The down side of this is that as soon as you heat up the repair that you've done to add more lead, your original repair will start to go molten also destroying most of the work already done:tdown:

http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff121/evilzee28/DSCF2046.jpg



Here's what you're aiming for, the repair is just proud of the surface & is relatively smooth ready for filing.



http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff121/evilzee28/DSCF2047.jpg



The repair is then filed to shape ready for etch/epoxy primer.



http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff121/evilzee28/DSCF2049.jpg



The finished article. ready for priming. :tup:



http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff121/evilzee28/DSCF2051.jpg




Once completed it's nescessary to make sure that all traces of flux have been removed from the repair or it will affect the repairs in the future. Wash the repair down liberaly with panel wipe/thinners & then some fresh soapy water & dry immediately.

Hope that's dispelled some of the worries about lead loading/body soldering. It's really quite easy to do & I find it very therapeutic :lol: you can get kits that contain everything you need to do this from people like Frosts restoration equipment. A bit of time & patience & it's easily mastered. The beauty is that moisture cannot penetrate the repairs from behind. it only takes one pin hoile in a welded & filled repair & in time the moisture will get through the filler, this way it can't as all holes are filled with lead. Obviously it takes practice, especially on a vertical panel where the lead tries to fall off as it's being warmed up :pmsl: but it's do-able for the hobbyist.

Shortly I'll post up some techniques of how I made a fibreglass airbox for the cross ram & possibly some fibreglass mould making techniques when I make a mould & 'glass front bumper

Cheers.....Nige

[70rs]

Thanks for posting the lead work "how to".:thumbsup:
Very interesting to see done. I have seen the finished product many times but never the actual procedure.:cheers:

[evilzee28]

Thanks to those of you that have followed along on my build thread & thanks also for such great comments, they're greatly appreciated. Well, it's come to that time where the project is just about finished after a good few years locked up in the garage. Just a bit of fine tuning, a few tweaks here & there, fit the crossram intake & it's all done. Woo Hoo!!!!

The car's been on the road for a while now in an unfinished state, shaking it down & getting to grips with it. I'm extremely happy with the way it's turned out. It isn't built to be a show car & I certainly wouldn't expect it to do well in the trophy winning department. There's very little "bling", minimal chrome, no big wheels & no fancy paintwork. What I set out to do was build a car that looked as if it's a bit of a time warp, with nothing fitted to it that wouldn't have been fitted "back in the day".

Sure, it looks pretty stock & that's the whole ethos behind a build like this. Most people won't give it a second glance when they see it as there's nothing on it that shouts "look at me". That suits me just fine :tup:. It's not what you can see, it's what you can't see that makes this car a little bit special. If anythings been added or moved, it's just been painted satin black to look as if it's all original. A case in point being the front & rear suspension, looks all stock doesn't it?? The engine also, just looks like a clean, fuelie headed 302, nothing special to look at at all. All very understated. Again, the interior is just as GM intended apart from the roll cage & a couple of additional gauges to keep tabs on what's going on in the engine department. It's really a bit of a "plain Jane" car.

I've been asked quite a few times now which shows I'll be going to with the car, unfortunately its show duty will be minimal. It's built as a driver & a strong track competitor & to say I'm pleased with it is somewhat of an understatement :twisted: :pmsl:

Thanks for taking the time to follow the journey of the cars build & finally,
here's some pics of the finished article:-



http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff121/evilzee28/camaronewcamera001-1.jpg


http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff121/evilzee28/camaronewcamera003-1.jpg



http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff121/evilzee28/camaronewcamera020.jpg



http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff121/evilzee28/camaronewcamera029.jpg



http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff121/evilzee28/camaronewcamera038.jpg



http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff121/evilzee28/camaronewcamera059.jpg



http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff121/evilzee28/camaronewcamera075.jpg



http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff121/evilzee28/camaronewcamera078.jpg



http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff121/evilzee28/camaronewcamera024.jpg



http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff121/evilzee28/camaronewcamera082.jpg


Thanks, cheers....Nige

[evilzee28]

Thanks to those of you that have followed along on my build thread & thanks also for such great comments, they're greatly appreciated. Well, it's come to that time where the project is just about finished after a good few years locked up in the garage. Just a bit of fine tuning, a few tweaks here & there, fit the crossram intake & it's all done. Woo Hoo!!!!

The car's been on the road for a while now in an unfinished state, shaking it down & getting to grips with it. I'm extremely happy with the way it's turned out. It isn't built to be a show car & I certainly wouldn't expect it to do well in the trophy winning department. There's very little "bling", minimal chrome, no big wheels & no fancy paintwork. What I set out to do was build a car that looked as if it's a bit of a time warp, with nothing fitted to it that wouldn't have been fitted "back in the day".

Sure, it looks pretty stock & that's the whole ethos behind a build like this. Most people won't give it a second glance when they see it as there's nothing on it that shouts "look at me". That suits me just fine :tup:. It's not what you can see, it's what you can't see that makes this car a little bit special. If anythings been added or moved, it's just been painted satin black to look as if it's all original. A case in point being the front & rear suspension, looks all stock doesn't it?? The engine also, just looks like a clean, fuelie headed 302, nothing special to look at at all. All very understated. Again, the interior is just as GM intended apart from the roll cage & a couple of additional gauges to keep tabs on what's going on in the engine department. It's really a bit of a "plain Jane" car.

I've been asked quite a few times now which shows I'll be going to with the car, unfortunately its show duty will be minimal. It's built as a driver & a strong track competitor & to say I'm pleased with it is somewhat of an understatement

Thanks for taking the time to follow the journey of the cars build & finally,
here's some pics of the finished article:-



http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff121/evilzee28/camaronewcamera001-1.jpg


http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff121/evilzee28/camaronewcamera003-1.jpg



http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff121/evilzee28/camaronewcamera020.jpg



http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff121/evilzee28/camaronewcamera029.jpg



http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff121/evilzee28/camaronewcamera038.jpg



http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff121/evilzee28/camaronewcamera059.jpg




http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff121/evilzee28/camaronewcamera078.jpg



http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff121/evilzee28/camaronewcamera024.jpg



http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff121/evilzee28/camaronewcamera082.jpg


Thanks, cheers....Nige