Dynacorn shell and subframe or a good driver car

[Weaver]

I am looking to build a pt 69 camaro and of course am on a budget. At this point, I am looking at the $50k range. I am willing to do some of the work myself to save some bucks, so I didn't know if it would be cheaper to buy a dynacorn shell and buy a subframe, front end, engine, tranny, rear end, electircal wiring, gas tank, interior or to buy a good driver and go from there. I am leary of buying a driver only to find out once the car would be media blasted, would find a bunch of bondo or rust repair. Everyone has told me to spend the bucks on a good body as that saves a bunch, so I thought maybe I should just buy a shell and buy whatever else I need to save some $$$.

Comments are welcomed.

Thanks,

Weaver

[camcojb]

The thing with the Dynacorn is there's still a lot of body and metalwork needed to get the fit and finish nice. Every build I've seen mentions that, it does not simply bolt together with all gaps, etc. nice.


This is not a slam on the product, but worth mentioning because if you can't do your own body and metal work you will spend a LOT of money paying someone else to do it. You need to figure that in.

I agree, the appeal of a rust-free body is high.

Jody

[Rick Dorion]

How about one of the Downs fiberglass 69 camaro coupe bodies :)

[71Nova]

Im not saying they don't exist, but I just checked Down Mfg site and didn't see a 69 body offered. Just hot rods

[Musclerodz]

Mike's Customs Cars and comes with title. http://www.mikescustomcars.com/69bodies.htm

Mike

[Rick Dorion]

I like those Mike's offerings.

The Downs site doesn't show it. It is discussed on camaros.net

http://www.bartonekdragracing.com/webfilez/Cam6.jpeg

[Rob07002]

The thing with the Dynacorn is there's still a lot of body and metalwork needed to get the fit and finish nice. Every build I've seen mentions that, it does not simply bolt together with all gaps, etc. nice.


This is not a slam on the product, but worth mentioning because if you can't do your own body and metal work you will spend a LOT of money paying someone else to do it. You need to figure that in.

Jody

Why not slam the product? It's been two years since their release and they have yet to address those issues! $12000 for a shell that needs another 2-3 k in body work! No thank you!

Until they fix the problems with the repop shells, a roller might be a better start, and it's the real deal.

[Silver69Camaro]

Why not slam the product? It's been two years since their release and they have yet to address those issues! $12000 for a shell that needs another 2-3 k in body work! No thank you!

Until they fix the problems with the repop shells, a roller might be a better start, and it's the real deal.

90% of those problems have been fixed in the latest prototype. They are quickly approaching the quality of the original GM shell...and may surpass it soon.

[Weaver]

I guess my question now is would these shells be better to buy than a car. Seems you could find a decent car for $20k.

Weaver

Mike's Customs Cars and comes with title. http://www.mikescustomcars.com/69bodies.htm

Mike

[BThibodeaux]

I guess my question now is would these shells be better to buy than a car. Seems you could find a decent car for $20k.

Weaver

I went with the Dynacorn body becuase I knew that I would be throwing away, or selling cheap most of the stock components of a complete stock car. I am building a PT car with almost nothing original GM in it. If you are planning to go this route, it probably makes more sense to start with a good shell. The Mike's shells look to be the better way to go than Dynacorn though. A visual inspection tells me that my Dynacorn body will need a good bit of straightening at the body shop. Paint and body will probably run about $12K. I had initially hoped to spend around $8K, but don't see it. If you do decide to go the Dynacorn route, PM me and I can give you the name and number of a dealer who gave me a 10% discount on the body, and 20% off all of the sheetmetal.

If you intend to keep your car mostly stock, buying a complete car is probably the better way to go. Either way, paint and body that is done right is almost never cheap on these cars. I would budget at least $10K right off for just about any car that has not had a recent, well documented frame off restoration.

[fletcherscustoms]

I vote mike's 100%%%% , see the pics on my site of one of his car shells!! you can get the complete car paint ready with front clip and all metal for around $18K. Then all is left is running gear, suspension, interior, and paint

[Weaver]

It states that you need subframe, glass, rear end and hardware. That would add quite a bit too for the build. I think I may be better off looking for a good driver and take it from there. Someone I know mentioned the dynacorn shell and just I would ask.

Thanks,

Weaver

I vote mike's 100%%%% , see the pics on my site of one of his car shells!! you can get the complete car paint ready with front clip and all metal for around $18K. Then all is left is running gear, suspension, interior, and paint

[*hotrods*]

I have seen the Dynacorn bodies before and after and I think the fit is terrible. Anytime you need to add 1"- 2" of body shims under the front fender is bad :eek: . Then you have the expense of the little things that you cant find. :wow: I would highly recommend buying a car that needs everything and go into it with the idea that your going to need to replace most of the panels. This is the way we build cars and we can ussually pick a decent shell up for $5000 hang all new sheet metal including a 1 piece floor and have about $10,000 in it before paint. Then you know what you have. The big thing to watch on buying a shell is the roof. If you ever have to replace the roof sheel you will understand what I'm talking about. Everything else is pretty easy. Hope this helps and by the way I'm a dealer for Ricks First Generation and I can buy those shells pretty reasonable and I'm still not using them. So that should tell you something.

Kevin

[rocketman]

I would go with Downs mfg fiberglass body,get a Morrison chassis to but it on and there you go.



The Dynacorn body is junk,it has along way to go to even fit nicely together,let alone fit great.

[71Nova]

Plus I know in some states you need to register them as a kit car

[3kidsnotime]

What state do you live in? There are alot of cars out there still I know the prices have gone up but they are out there, look in ca, mt, or, wa, az, nm, and some of id, These are my best hunting grounds for clean metal, I do know where there is a clean rust free 69 Z28 shell original yellow paint but about 20 years ago some one decided to cut the firewall and complete floor pans out to make a Drag car But the complete front end is still bolted on it I think it even has rs option, I can find out but that car would be alot of work.

[3kidsnotime]

Also check out musclecarprojects.com bad part is he never keeps it up probably better to just call him, Neil 435-770-3337 he is about an hour drive from me a real great guy most of the stuff is fairly rust free but missing alot of the trim, I just purchased a 72 ss 402 chevelle from him for 2k It is quite complete but the 402 is gone but a real u code 402 car and original red on black, The orange heavy chevy on the site is very clean I think im going to buy it as well original paint hardley any rust... But I have been trying to pull the needle from my arm..... Too many. Give the guy a call he is a good guy he is a developer and for fun him and his friend take two 3 car haulers to nm and az and buy what ever projects they can find, He cant make any money from it the prices are to good.