71 RAT
02-08-2022, 05:24 AM
I been battling this loose feeling into a corner, basicly feels like an over loaded truck! Quick info for rear suspension ;
Currie lowers arms and adjustable uppers
Hellwig adjustable sway bar
Poly bushings in upper rear housing
QA1 single adjustable shocks
GW 130 springs
Air lift bags about 5psi
Things I tried;
Check all bolts and fasteners, several times
All 3 positions on rear sway bar, have not disconected it
Tire pressure
Air bag pressure
Firm up shocks
Recheck rear end is centered
Alginment is;street performance
camber: -1/2
caster: +5 to +5.5
toe in: 1/16" total
Nothing made any difference, one way or another. The 295/45/18 tires are pretty close in the wheel wells, if the rear housing was moving much I'd think there would be a rub. I'm planning on swapping the poly upper bushings for UMI Roto Joints, or something similar. Had some spherical type in that position but the NVH was not tolerable.
My Tacoma with a 2" lift and taller tires doesn't squirm around as much.
I had the suspension set up for street strip deal, years and years. I lived with it, figured it was set up to try to go straight. The rear always tries to pass the front! YEEHAAA:eek:!!
Following up on some info from on Team Chevelle. My left tie rod assembly on the drivers side is 5/8" longer than the passengers side. Obviously the steeringbox is not centered, idler arm and pitman arm are not parallel front to rear. I borrowed a bumpsteer gauge, haven't set it up yet, but on the list of things to do.
Do you think the 5/8" difference with my tie rod assembles is partly or the source of the uneasy feeling I'm experiencing?
Thanks for all the suggestions.
Currie lowers arms and adjustable uppers
Hellwig adjustable sway bar
Poly bushings in upper rear housing
QA1 single adjustable shocks
GW 130 springs
Air lift bags about 5psi
Things I tried;
Check all bolts and fasteners, several times
All 3 positions on rear sway bar, have not disconected it
Tire pressure
Air bag pressure
Firm up shocks
Recheck rear end is centered
Alginment is;street performance
camber: -1/2
caster: +5 to +5.5
toe in: 1/16" total
Nothing made any difference, one way or another. The 295/45/18 tires are pretty close in the wheel wells, if the rear housing was moving much I'd think there would be a rub. I'm planning on swapping the poly upper bushings for UMI Roto Joints, or something similar. Had some spherical type in that position but the NVH was not tolerable.
My Tacoma with a 2" lift and taller tires doesn't squirm around as much.
I had the suspension set up for street strip deal, years and years. I lived with it, figured it was set up to try to go straight. The rear always tries to pass the front! YEEHAAA:eek:!!
Following up on some info from on Team Chevelle. My left tie rod assembly on the drivers side is 5/8" longer than the passengers side. Obviously the steeringbox is not centered, idler arm and pitman arm are not parallel front to rear. I borrowed a bumpsteer gauge, haven't set it up yet, but on the list of things to do.
Do you think the 5/8" difference with my tie rod assembles is partly or the source of the uneasy feeling I'm experiencing?
Thanks for all the suggestions.