1970 Coronet Super Bee a.k.a Project Plan Bee

[SuperB70]

Hey all,
Happy new year 2022.

First, bare with my english, I live in Finland. The land of SISU,
also country with most world champions in motorsports and of course Santa Claus = Father Christmas = Joulupukki .

I thought its time to post my project.

Bought as a roller, disassembled left to rot, father-son project from South Carolina about 10 years ago. Then it sat in my yard for years. Been slow going project for past 6-7 years now.
Running own fabrication shop and building customer cars took toll on my own. I also make custom cooling products, you will see that in this.

Now past 5 years been working as hired help, been having more time to build this. Now days work as an foreman at local trade school machineshop. Have almost all the equipment it the world to make my parts.

SO I started looking one years earlier for new project.
Vision was some how clear. To build really one off, powerful Grand Tourer. Been saing that I'm driving it gross Europe to Monaco when its done.

It will be low, has hidden tube frame inside its body, inside roof frame,
inside frame rails, double rails at rockers and in the middle, around transmission and drive shaft.
Removable main hope, cross- and door bars.
Many body panels will be hand made from aluminium, by me. Ofcourse
Fluss front and back glass, one piece door glass.
As you can see in the photos, body has cutted / drilled open,
brassed and sandblasted with home made rotesserie, then I put my frame table together
and installed body on it so that top of the table as ground,
ride hight set to 4", as you can see, front rails dont work with that.
They may be relocating or changing

Engine: Brand new gen 3 Viper 8.3L, (how many knows that its build by ILMOR)
Modified Ilmor crank, my own tool steel main caps,
custom made one off Auto-Verdi connecting rods, Diamond pistons,
Autoverdi 5 stage drysump pump, custom ATI super damber,
ported heads, custom cam, home build intake manifold
with (+2000hp) water to air intercooler,
two cores stacked in one set off head plates. 4"x4"x20"
4.9L Kenne Bell twin screw supercharger,
twin 82mm Bosch electric throttle bodies and much more.
Almost all one off custom pieces.

ECU and Fuel:

Maxxecu Pro-ecu, seq fuel with 10x1500cc/min Bosch EV-14 injectors,
Aeromotive 6 gal/min mechanic fuel pump,
seqvental ignition, IGN-1A coil per cyl.
Ecu controlled boost control. (secret stuff still)

Cooling:

Total of 12 cores, all the usual and then some. 2 Piesburg pumps
Even some experimental stuff.

Transmission:

Reactor product custom made SFI flexplate,
build Mercedes W5A900 trans out of 57 Maybach,
(same used in SLRMcLaren Mercedes),
my own adapter/midplate, paddles, OFGear controller.
Dana-Spicer aluminium 4" driveshaft

Front axle:
Corvette C4, moved 3" forward, fast ratio rack,
mounted stock points on the tube frame,
double adjust coil-overs and air lift cups.

Rearend:

Ford 9.75 with true trac, 3.08:1 gears,
own design floater axle system, modern wheel bearing pack,
Self machined (from MoC410m) axles. 3-link, d a coil-overs and air lift cups.

Brakes:

front 15" 6 pot Brembo
rear 14.5" 4 pot Brembo

Wheels and tires:
Custom ordered OZ Racing HTS Leggera
front 8x19 245-40-19 Bridgestone
read 12x19 345-35-19 Bridgestone

Electronics:

State of the art CAM bus system by my good friend,
SPLeinonen (dotcom)
Gauges: Tablets, another good friends Real Dash app.
realdash(dotnet)

join the ride, its gonna be epic...

From oldschool hand fabrication (like Pullmax) and welding to 3d world (printing, scanning designing) to cnc-machining.

To be thought and build, not bought and assembled.

to be continue..

[camcojb]

I LOVE those cars!! Definitely will be following this one. :thumbsup:

[68454RS]

Following for updates

[WSSix]

Sounds like it's going to be an amazing project. These cars are so cool since you simply don't see them often let alone modified like you have planned. Best of luck and keep us update.

[JB400]

Interested

[Dave Pratt]

Always had a thing for the 70 Bee...I'm looking forward to watching the progress of your build.I had a 70 383 4spd Roadrunner about 6-7 years ago so I have a soft spot for those b body cars...cheers

[4GOTNPNY]

that looks like its going to be an awesome car looking forward to seeing this one progress

[SuperB70]

Well, lets show some progress.
Actually wanted to show what I did before sand blasting.
Back panel was shoot, I knew that,
had another panel ready, trunk gutter where also rutted, those I got repo but had to fab quarter edge lid that folds to gutter.
I also had to make the gutter
front corners. Tig weld them on and hammered
flat.
Seam between quarter and sailpanel, usual a rust spot in Mopar, well cut that off and welded a piece there.

Last one is a bonus, jump ahead abit and show have is coming. I took a shapping class in Sweden. Per the Metalman Sweden. Mechammer inventor Ben was there also as a tutor, luckily he became my tutor. Made one rear corner piece there and another at home, few years later. They will be welded on. So one seam less.

Dont know why some of the pics are sideways or can I adjust them. Maybe Jody can..

[camcojb]

Dont know why some of the pics are sideways or can I adjust them. Maybe Jody can..

Fixed... Yeah, that happens sometimes usually when a pic is taken in portrait instead of landscape like off a cell phone. Seems to be happening with Iphone pics only. If you take all your pics in landscape mode there's no issue. The solution to fix them when sideways is to download them from the thread onto your computer, rotate them correctly, and re-attach to the thread. For some reason it seems to only happen with cell pics taken vertically, and only Apple products.

https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5aef2fad9d5abb57b704f0e2/1557871541060-X52L3HR5TY0W1U2TMPN8/Portrait+Landscape.jpg

[SuperB70]

Getting low. -er.

as the plan is to get this car low, put still driveable low.
pre-measures shows it could be around 126cm/ 46" of total height.
Wheels and tires will effect it of course, but we'll see.

I got an idea to rise the rear frame rails above the rear axle.
To be able to rise the axle with out loosing suspension travel.
when mounted the body on the frame table,
I fab'ed adjustable stands, like jack stands.
Cut'ed the frame rails from rockers and from trunk edge.
Loose the original wheel tubs at this point also.

Leaving the trunk floor to stock location for now.
Then jacked it up 3".
Made pieces to fit the caps,
bead roller the edge to give same curve as stock rails..

After they where welded on, supported the rear panel from table.
I cut'ed the rear frame rails off, and floor under rear seat.
they where is good shape but they where too narrow for my plans.
Made new wider ones with magnetic brake. Again, with same kind of radius as stock ones. Now I can fit a tube in. Tube frame. That's coming, as are the bigger tubs.

[ScotI]

Very nicely done on the raised frame rail kick-up & transition pieces.

[jarhead]

Looking good Juhani!

I was wondering about your build a couple of months ago

[SuperB70]

Thx guys,

Hey Joe,
Project is moving ahead.

[Bakaruda]

As a Mopar Or Nocar guy "Love It".....

[SuperB70]

Wheel tubs time.

Making card board temples, tryed some patterns, settle for this. Make one piece, with three step beads, 1/2" radius at edge, easier to weld together. Making tubs in three pieces, again easier to bead roll them, then tig weld them together. Not too big and grazy, want to run with back seat. This is Grand Tourer..

Good friend loaned his '06 Ford GT rear wheel to mock up. I just imported set of one off Asanti's for him. Really like how low its coming. Put also shows, need to turn on my plasma again. Open up opening more.

Was thinking should I also widen those quarters now? Would be easy...

[camcojb]

That looks killer! :king:

[SuperB70]

Thanks Jody!

updates...

So I scored big time. Wasn't cheap but bought it anyway. Brand new gen 3 8.3l "crate" engine fell in my lap.
Let just say its left over from some motorsport-program. (Cant tell more)
Oh boy do I have some plans for this...

Its time to start building the tube frame. Building it from 1 1/4 DOM tubing. Was calculation for a long time should I build it from that new high strength tubing, Swedish Docol R8. Actually all are made by SSAB here in Finland but shipped to Sweden and sold from there. SSAB is Swedish company. But I decided to go with familar DOM. I may have to compesate weight with more power..
Raising the floors 3" so first tube goes to upper inner part of rockers. Then small pieces between ans second tube under those. Should be stiff piece. Next cross tube and bended tubes to inside rear frame rail. All to way to back panel. From there forward one pair as "subframe connectors". Frame rails and all inside is painted with industrial grade gray 2-k epoxy before hand.

Another score, cheap roller C4 Vette, I bought it just for front suspension. One of my friends needed the rest. So kind of free be for me. Luckily I've a dually and large enclosed trailer also my company is one of few GM Performance centers around here so I have access to GM files. Body dimensions. Front axle mounting dimensions and angle.. Do you guess by now where this is going...

Then after some measurements, turned on my plasma and cutted off the whole front windshield forward off. Where we are going, we don't need torsion bars..

Then another score, came across craigslist-add. Light rear end crashed Maybach 57 parting out in Florida. Got my good friend to go and check that the trans was good and right number one. (722.649) Not so popular in US but widelly used in Europe, many kind of motorsport. Holds a lot of tq. Even in stock form. Of course it can be beefed up and this will be.
This has two reverse gears (Aftermarket controller can run both).
Modern Mopars NAG-1 is same family Mercedes trans.
NAG-1 =W5A580 (580Nm) mine W5A900 (900Nm)
Have no idea how to connect this to V10 but I'm sure I'll sort it out some how..(spoiler alert, I will)

[SuperB70]

Engine is disassembled and mated to trans. Still no glue what thickness need to be at this point, so made plywood adapter extra thick. To make sure I'll have exrta space from trans to frame.
Made a installing frame/jig for drive train. Easy to move on top of the table. Get it centered. Front suspension pick up point jig started but that will change. More from that later update..

Roll cage fab.
I wanted to hide tubes inside roof frame. That means that I need to support and cut roof frame to many pieces. Trick is to get everything line up later. Use original roof skin and drilled spot welds as guide. Main hood will be removable
(I know its not inside NHRA or FIA rules but I don't care. Doing an roadcar.)
and l come under those front to back roof tubes. Locking bolted with machined shoulder tabs. Roof frame tubes are bended one piece from floor frame near door lower hinge to back to truck frame rail tube right after wheel tub.
They will be tie up with removable (with roll cage clamps) horizontal tube.
Floor center lower tubes will come under rear end and connect to same point at trunk rails. Also with boltable locking clamps.
Front upper cross tube fitted to fit roof skin and windshield channel, witch will revolve to flush glass channel.

Last pic shows center section of the frame. Kind of drag car douple frame but more smoother shape. Wheel tub has been trimmed for quarter to be cleco'd for test fit.

[214Chevy]

This is gonna be one bad mofo!!

[SuperB70]

Lets talk little about this oddfire odd engine.

I was close to use 6.1 Hemi for this. But when opportunity to buy this dropped to my lap, choice was made. Hemi was put to side (for wife Challenger project). First idea was to use couple Holset-custom turbos. I've taken partin gen 2 twin turbo build earlier, so I know what kind of power and tq numbers these monster will put out, easilly.
But my love to twin screws starts back at 2000. I was in Florida, looking would I relocate there to live. My cousins friend had supercharged street race Fox-body Mustang. That was a wild ride. I've builded turbo- and roots blown engines since '93.
So I made decision that I should do what I advice other to do.

So started to do research and quickly found that Roe-racing was only one.
But they didnt have intercooler and used small head unit (mainly because bigger ones didnt fit under Vipers hood.) My good friend Johan (poweredbyjohan.com) in Sweden, has gen 2 with Roe kit. Same guy was in US tour with his blood red '68 Charger RTR. Viper has 750hp, witch is plenty for street car. But ofcourse I wanted more.

Idea came to build my own intake, with custom two row core. (I build custom cooling systems, European factory hand makes cores for me.). So I drawed up the needed core size and asked factory to build it as high power as size allows. They calculated that this core will support 2200hp. ( w/ ambient cooled coolant temps with front mounted heat exchanger)

Then came time to get strong enough parts. Main caps was no brainer. Those where made by my friend with cncmill, from our local steel. Imatra Imaroc (Moc) 410m tool steel. Tolerances where left tight, little left to line bore and hone. ARP hardware is used.
Was looking for stroker crank but ($6000+shipping) was out of my budget. Here no one was interested to off set grind the stock crank, more cubs that way. (I've two stock ones). Fixed the oiling problem same time. Actually I do that for a lot around Scandinavia. I'm known to do that. Customers from Finland, Sweden, Estonia, Russia.
Looked around for con.rods. Twin screw is second hardest to beat rods.
Cylinder pressures are high from low rpm. I called around the world,literally.
Stopped calls at legendary Auto-Verdi, in Sweden. Company that makes rods for ex. Nascar, NHRA Pro-stock, Porsche classes, Köenigsegg and F1 power boats. (autoverdi.com)
Stefan was really cool and helpful guy. He was ready to help me after I told what I was building. After all, no one has ever done this. He was sure he can make me a set of forged billed rods that could handle 200hp/each. More than enough.
So I packed block, crank, one rod-piston set and all other needed so they can rotate and calculate what can be done.
Roadtrip took me 4 days, 2 ferry rides. But it was forth it. After talked with Stefan, I desided to turn my engine to dry sump.
After all Auto-Verdi also makes world best dry sump pumps. Those also are used by the PROs around the world.
Time that engine was in Stefans shop, I cut'd resently builded front frame off again and started to plan a new, wider one.

At first picture is Kenne Bells 4.2L unit, but after I visited the supercharger factory and talked about my project, showed my custom intercooler core I came back with their newer, bigger 4.7L head unit. Got really good information about intake design and cooling system. Have revisited them few time after that one. They are following this with great intress. I have some new, never seen stuff coming.. Funny story about my IC core, I'd give it ispection to boss man. He looked it long and closely. Asked where did I get my it. Chinish one, perhaps? He sad that after 3 decades he havent seen one like that. Not sure was I really smart or stupid...

Stick around and we both will see that..

Last pic show how you can spot 4.7 and new 4.9L head units. They have already build in watermeth injection nozzle port.

[WSSix]

I don't have much to add other than I love where this build is going. Keep it up and good luck!

[SuperB70]

Front frame time.

I've always disliked front overhang.
From front egde to the wheel arch to front bumper is ludicrous half a meter.
50cm~20".
Made desicion that I'm gonna move
front axel forward 3" to to compensate that. And get more room for all the things that are coming on the front part of the engine. As I told last update that I'll build this as an drysump.
Need room for the huge Auto-Verdi 5 stage pump and up coming custom ATI Superdamper. Behind the steering rack.
Now its time to do it. So new frame needs to be wider than before as well.

Some of my pics are still sideways even I try to do as Jody guided. Sorry about that.

Like I previously told, my company was for years a GM Performance Center, (gave it up) so I got my hands on C4 Corvette frame/ control arms pick up points and all the angles.
So I made an installing jig on based them.
Here it is in action. Front cross members is mounted at its new location in Vettes specs,
them an negative jig is made to show the pickup points of the control arms.
The plan is not to use original cross member.
Double tube frame coming.

This is a good time to show my tube notcher, Baileighs TN-250 with a Finnish twist. I soon realized that you cant make notches to tight bented pieces. Cant turn them down, they will hit angle meter and cant turn them pointing up. Saw doesebt go upwards. Got me thinking...
So I cutted pieces of different thickness of flat stock and sheet metal. Chanced the axle housing mounting bolts to studs. Now I can rise the axle housing every millimeter from 0 to 35. So I can turn tube pieces pointing up and notch them spot on.

Bar between LCA is piece of solid bar, drilled and tapped so that LCA can be simple bolted on the ends. Made little U-pieces to get center frame piece to be bolted on and of. All will be tig-welded.

To be continue...

P.S. been thinking that this gets views but not much comments... come on fellas .. this must be different than the most... and it will get more different as we go on, I'll promise..

[ScotI]

I'm diggin' the creativity on the build as well as the build tools.

[camcojb]

Some of my pics are still sideways even I try to do as Jody guided. Sorry about that.





I fixed them, not sure why it wouldn't work for you. One way to eliminate this issue is to take all pics in landscape. This is a real cool project, and it's great to see something different like this. Especially a Mopar, as they are very cool cars but don't have as many options for the chassis like some of the others.

[SuperB70]

I fixed them, not sure why it wouldn't work for you. One way to eliminate this issue is to take all pics in landscape. This is a real cool project, and it's great to see something different like this. Especially a Mopar, as they are very cool cars but don't have as many options for the chassis like some of the others.

Thx again Jody.

These are old pics, taken with Iphone, I guess.
I upload them, them remove them, turn them, save them and upload again. Did that so many times that my head started to spin...

Mopars, well they do have better front suspension geometry than GM or Ford. Even with torsion bars.
Not much needed to make them a corner rockets. Few bolt on's will do. Have done a few and they are super nice. Specially when loosing the t-bars and installing coil overs.

Aftermarket chassic does not do for me. They are copies either some gen Vettes or Mustang II for olders hot rod stuff. Why buy one when I can build my own as well.

As in many other things in this project, its not about buying other builded stuff and bolt them on. Its about coming up with design, result and building it. Myself (or some cases other pro, one of my friends maybe)

After I build that jig for C4, been using it to many different makes and models. '57 Crown vic (w/ different, an manual rack) '50 Buick, '68 Satelite and '56 Chevy pick up. Pick up with Vette rear axle also.
All have performed great. Only down side is design element that engine is behind the rack, almost mid engine car. Have had to mod firewall in many cases.

C4 is right width for most, around 60"
Newer generations grown too wide. You can still install one of them but geometry (acherman) goes out of the window with stock racks. They need custom racks and longer control amrs means less room for engine and stuff.

I've '69 Mustang in my shop with full DSE Alumaframe and q-link set up. Installed by me. Again, that based from Vette. More on that later.

But back to Plan Bee, it's coming along. Actually pretty far ahead. But we'll how fast updates will come here

Our car building regulations chanced a year ago (again) this time not so favor for my project. On the supercharger part. With old rules, it was a favor for me. But ongoing projects have transition period to end of next year 2023. So I need to get this thing through the inspection and plated before that. Going to be busy 20 months..

Later..

[SuperB70]

I got the pics dilemma sorted. Editing them to square form seems to do the trick..

So back to front frame.

Wanted to do alot of triangles, the most strongest tube design. Connecting A-pillar tubes to front frame tubes from two places. before and after the front suspension.

Here is a trick I use im my tube bending jobs. Eliminates most of directional errors. Couple different lengths of soft 1/2" aluminium fuel line. Easy to bend, even back to straight.

UCA mounting base also from seamless tube, top piece from braked 6mm (1/4") steel.

I didnt take any pic when building rack mounting base. Or I do but would give up too much for now..

Also I had to install my new wheels on to check how much I've room on full lock.

Next go to get engine back from Sweden, installing engine to frame. Also start to design my own intake manifold.

Stay tune..

[camcojb]

Nice work!

[SuperB70]

Rods are here. Went back and picked up the engine from Auto Verdi, Sweden.

Rods are totally one off, made from very special swedish military (not grade, but real military steel) steel, forged and cnc-machined billed pieces. Ready to balancing. European precision. For this engine and for twin screw supercharger. Cylinder pressure rises fast at low rpm. These are made and guaranteed for 200hp per rod. But have to use 1/4" wall wrist pin with full wall. Cant have any lighten one.

Really nice shop, hospital grade clean. Stefan is super cool guy. Provides rods for many Nascar, Pro Stock and F1 power boat teams. Those Koeningsegg rods where sexy. Sorry that I can show any pics from inside the shop.

Same time picked up my dry sump oil pump. Also from Auto Verdi. 5 stage, all sucktion stages are internally channeled, to back of the pump to oil air separator so one stage can be used as an vacuum pump. Provides 99.99% airless oil back to tank. Mounting tabs are also custom ones, designed to fit Viper engine block. But not like Competition Coupe, not putting this under oil pan, but to passenger side of the block. Had to make room for it, loose lower water hose connection, belt automatic adjuster and oil filter housing. They need to be relocated. I got a plan...

Had nice suprise when arrived home, my own design mail caps arrived. One of my friend took the task of machining them from our local steel factory tool steel Imaroc 410 M. (MoC410m) new ARP hardware. Next to linebore.

Had to install empty block to se how it fits my new frame.. had steering rack/engine cradle finished. More that later.

To be continued...

[SuperB70]

Next task is to make outterskin of rear wheel tubs. Have glued tubs to quarters on earlier builds but now wanted to make them "right". Made them with flance to match the lip in original wheel archs. Glued again but now with 2k body adhesive.

Paper template, bead rolled edge and some stifnings. Tig welded and hammered. Used mig to hang them on. Hard to do by you self.
Made them as big as possible. Even had to cut down the top most outter corner so that quarters would fit.

Gray stuff is industrial grade epoxy paint. Body will be painted all over everywhere with that stuff.

Little tip again. Flancing hand tool. Just an old 1/2" socket T-handel, one end cutted off and slotted with 1mm cutting wheel. Piece of squar tube and small hose clamp make a easilly adjustable back stop. Just bend in little steps and go back and forward. Works great.

Now I can start hanging new quarters..

[Mikael A]

Very cool,love everything about it:thumbsup:

[SuperB70]

Thanks guys for kind words.

Time to hang the quarters.

All is build so that the new repro stock width will fit. Now days all is about wide body.

Should I do that..?

No, I'll "massage" just a little, for the rear tubs. 1/2" wider from the middle. Just used kick shrinker to shrink pie cuts to the top flance. Tricky to get them done and then copy to other side.

First thing is to sand them clean and paint inside with same 2-k epoxy as everything else. Left strip at the edge without paint. Will paint after welding and hammering. Also installed some sound deadening. Got carried away abit. Nobody will ever see, but had to do it..

Tig welded all around. Exept the wheel arches. Those I glued with 2-k body adhesive. Really strong stuff. Area of finger tip (1cm2/ 0.15sq in) will hold 200kg (440lbs). Glue is closed cell stuff. will not absorb moisture. Also fitted quarter extensions witch I made years ago in Per the Metalman Sweden's shapping class with Ben, father of the Mechhammer.

Need to finish the seams, slapper, shrinking disc, hammer and dolly to get everything straight and smooth.

Next is time to modified the front fender wheel arches and I already have started to with rear end, full floater.. again some thing different.. When some careful calculations and I can order my wheels..

[SuperB70]

Rear end time.

Have build few 9" good and pro versions
(read expensive and bonkers expensive)
I dont have that kind of money or dont want to spend them on those.
Also I need low ratio gears. Low 3 something.
Trans dont have long overdrive (0.83) and engine will not turn high rpm.
So if I want car to have any kind of higher (expected) top speed, I need gears. And when Gear Vendor has not return my enquiring.. LoL
-"I need GV-OD to SLR MCLaren Mercedes.." 8)
Have seen many times that all 9" low gears sets without FORD stamping will be loud, sooner or later.
So 9 inch was out.

So something else...

Started looking strong alternative. One of the first looked Dana 70.
But I chosed Ford 9.75". From F150 with 3.08:1. Will be with True-trac.

Some of you may remember that I discuss about this at rear end section with my first design.

Idea is to build full floater with modern easy to get new, affordable parts. Had to forget single bold systems, dont want to start fab wheel arches. Actually they went to my customer project.

After rear end arrived from States,
I disassembling it and started to design needed parts/ tools. Had local laser shop cut parts, local machine shop machine turned tools for me. Years biggest car show was around the corner and had to spread workload. And I fractured my index finger at work.
Tools is to get tolerance grinded 50mm /2" solid bar in the middle of carrier side bearings place.
Inserting tools to fit in tolerance machined wheel bearing hubs, so that 50mm bar is in the middle and can be used to verify hub to be at axle center line.
Installed heat to slide on axle tube, shrank to lock hubs to correct width, tig weld them with using insert tools. Also use them to check that hubs still where in the middle of the axle center line.. Wheel bearing hubs are from Cadillac CTS-V, so is backing plate, parking brake, 4 pot Brembo calibers and 14.5" aftermarket rotors.



Axles will be done by me with 4axle cnc lathe..
From 300M high strength steel, again from our local steel factory.
Ford has 34 splines, Caddy has 33 splines.
They actually are done in now, real time. Yesterday did first tool paths for them.

Wheel bearing hubs still need to be lighten, will do that when welding brake caliber brackets on them. Also fab more stiffing to the link brackets and axle tubes..

Rear end will be hang with double adj. coil overs, 2.5" air jacks and 3 link, was easy to calculate bar lines, angles and lengths when car is on the frame table. Bars are made from that Docol R8 high strength tubing, CNC machined threaded ends.

Forged M20 spherical rod ends are modified, bearing halfs and balls are pressed off, made simple molds and took them to my friends company. They will cast polyurethane buslings on them. More about them later. Another great idea for sure.. I just hate solid rod ends, all the noise come straight through. Great for race car but not for Grand Tourer.

Drive shaft will be another challenge. Trans has fixed flance( from IRS rear), drive shaft would need to have slide and hold around 1500 ft lbs of tq.
But I've an idea.. (an wild idea)

Havent decided whether to buy the diff cover or make my own... I do have many cnc machines at my disposal now days..

Now I can measure and order my wheels... Something different for sure, again..

[ScotI]

Thanks for continuing to post updates. This is an incredible build!

[Jimbo1367]

I’m have to start checking this build out from the beginning when I get time. It’s badazz

[SuperB70]

Wheels are here.

I wanted european supercar style, no 2 to 4" lip for me.

from OZ Racing, Italy. No super $$ 3 piece forged for this, again this is gonna see road alot. But these are real racing grade heat threaded wheels, not anyway any "oriental cheap suprises"..

Fronts are basic list wheels 8.5 x19. Wanted to run with 18" but those brakes that "dropped" to my lap don't fit in. Had to upgrade to 19s.

Rear one are custom ordered 12x19". Had to settle for 5x130mm bolt pattern (911 Porsche CUP blank) but ordered same time 15mm (¨1/2") boltable spacer/pattern changers. 5x130/5x114.3. TUV- proof so I can run them here in the street.

Tires are 245-45-19 and 345-35-19
Front ones are brand new Continentals but I choose them by close matching thread pattern.
Rear ones are Bridgestone Potenza, kind of funny case:
bought outdated ones from Europe. When arrived, was confused why sticker says Enzo '02- and "SCUDERIA" embossed on the side of the tire.
After some google research: "RE050 scuderia" founded out that these are Enzo factory installation tires..got 2 pairs of them. They where dirty cheap, so no problems burn them setting and testing traction control..

Brakes are made by Brembo.
381mm/ 15", 6 piston fixed mounted front calibers and
368mm/ 14.5", 4 piston fixed mounted rear calibers. Parking brake shoes inside rotors as shown at rear end post.

Last pic is tease about what to come.. if you have followed, you may remember that I've moved front axle 3" forward.. Have to make those fit..

Later..

[camcojb]

The wheels and brakes look great.

[groovyjay]

Looks great, love the wheel choice. Tulee vitun hieno!

[Mikael A]

Some cool stuff going on here,keep you the good work.

[syborg tt]

Wow is this an awesome build.

Thank you for sharing this build.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[SuperB70]

Front fender time.

Since I moved front axle 3" forward, I need to modified my steel fenders to fit.
And with 19" wheels, stock wheel arches (for 14") doesent fit quite right.
Now is good time to make the chances, plan how to cut is critical.
Want to keep side markers, one thing that makes musclr car different than our "normal" euro- or japanise cars.
New wheels and modded frame forged me to rise arches 2" to clear wheel when turning. Also arches looked tobe little too long for my taste so I nipped 1" way from the middle. That turned me to add 4" add the back cut line.

Good fitment, tig welding, relentless hammer and dolly work and you dont see the seams anymore. I could slap and shrink them to smooth but why? they will get coated/ bondo'ed (even thin skin)/painted anyway.
Driver side fender have had some kind of fender bender so I chanced front part, so many screw pulley hammer hoses that no point to weld them.

In one pic you can see how I fix are when it has got "fed up" cant shrink anymore. Cut round circle out and weld new piece. Try to avoid sharp corners. Doesent shrank so much...

Is it just me or those 19" wheels and 15" rotors dont look that (mean too) big anymore...

Now I can start planning side skirts.. Dont want too much but want something.. One idea is to make Viper like side exhaust inside rockers... Mufflers, yes you guested. Have to be made...

Again, I will leave something coming to last pic.

After I made brakets and bolded fender on, I realized: HOLLY CRAP!!
there will be 90cm (3ft!!) from grill to water pump pulley..
I have some real estate for my serios cooling systems...
Tell me, should I post teaser, what I have come up..

up to next one..

[Dave Pratt]

Damn! Fantastic fab work and then some.Love this build...

[SuperB70]

Lets start to build the intake manifold.
After extensive searches I was not able to find anything like this been made.
So first one of its kind. Same sad Kenne Bell and few twin screw specialist from Sweden witch turns out to be great help in this.
Twin screw supercharger was invented in Sweden by Alf Lysholm.
Thats why all twin screws are referred to as "Lysholms"
But Kenne Bell is the only one with Lysholms/Autorotors idea, with 6 by 4 rotor pack design. Far superior to others in my mind.
I feel lucky, as I've had a chance to visit supercharger factory three times.

You will found out that this build is highly dependent of friends..
Man, it good to have alot of skilled friends..

First I set the blower on the engine with piece of I-beam..just to get visual reference.

At that point I had 4.2L blower, witch I did installed to 572 Hemi. But thats another story.

Next I started to draw 1:1 scale plan what kind it need to be.
What kind of air space will I need and get.
Bottom floor spoilers where an a idea but tno needed them.
I already had my special made intercooler core arrived from Europen core factory.
I ordered it as 2 stack 50mmx100mmx500mm( 2"x4"x25")
So it will have two cool shocks, instead of one thicher core. That could suffer from heat soak more.
Capacity to cool over 2000Hp.
With ambient cooled water/coolant.
On the sided I need space for Bosch Ev-14 (1500cc) injectors, one per cylinder.

Under the stock intake is coil packs, couple knock sensors and some cast bosses. They all need to go or atleast relocate.

First plan was to machine it out of 6061 billet, thanks to near by top cnc shop. again one of my friend worked there as sales manager. But when he quit, so did my hopes for billet intake.

Next idea was to make molds and cast it from aluminium with yet another friend. Hes been doing molds and casting (mainly stainless) past 20+ year.

We where just about to start fabbing the molds when yet another friend offered to help. He has huge new cnc-press brake. 100.000t, that 1 million kilograms. 2mil lbs.
So we made the base plate with that. From fresh 10mm plate.
Bend it like it was A4 printer paper. LoL
But right on the money. Great!
I was educated that aluminium ages, old plate brakes..

Now I've made welding jig, from 15x150mm I bean, cutted in half, welded it to 50x100 with 6mm wall bottom tubes.
Will fit to my powder coating oven for pre-heating.

Next cutting front and back plates from 10mm plate and injector bases from 50x50x10mm L-bar.

and I still have just a few details to figure out..My design lives...All the time..

[SuperB70]

Intake build continues.

Pieces are made, beveled then after preheat oven welded. Was heavy to lift to oven, complete jig and all...
Those angles are so that I've place to mount injectors and fuel rails. As was in my CAD (Cardboard Aided Design)
Not gonna weld bungs on it. Just mill spec bore for them.
Never mind the finish of those welds. There is 3 passes.
Main thing is that its over the surface and penetrated.
All will be machined smooth.
Made top plate, first, will not be final one. I can tell you that.

Then we arrive point of my life when I got job at trade school machine shop foreman so now I got tools, a lot of machining machines and full welding shop other side of the hall... You will see that also..

At summer holiday, I reassembled the engine to manual milling machine table and let the chips fly..

Back to this, after talked with Swedes again. Desided that I need to make risers to make room for air. So I machined them. made a step joint so I can be sure they don't move or leak. milled o-ring groove and holes for allen bolts on it.

Next will make mounting face and - plate for the supercharger to be bolted to intake.

[groovyjay]

looking mighty!

[SuperB70]

Been awhile.. But be sure project has goon forward.. alot..

Lets continue build this intake. Next task, build intake top plate and to mill recess to it for supercharger mounting plate. Bolts for that can be on the sides, but front and back edges are under the blower. So I milled step edge on those. The plate will lock tight against O-ring when blower is lowered and pushed back. Top plate is bolted with countersink bolts and had to check twice that bolts clear all the rest. A lot of going on here.

Then copied the supercharger mounting bolt pattern and discharge port shape and location and transfer it to mounting plate. Straight, super important thing here.

Finally supercharger is bolted on top of the intake. First time. Now can take it off the engine and take it to our large vertical boring machine to face off front and back faces. With machine that size and options, its easy to do this kind of tasks. Reat time to practice Heidenhain programming..

Same time I started to do next cool parts. Supercharger intake flance. Took photo of the supercharger, imported is as canvas to Fusion360. After drawing it until I was satisfied, then 3d printed it out from PLA, just to veryfy that it will work. Print quality isnt great but dont care, it works. I transfer model to Surfcam and made toolpaths for it and started our Haas mill. Came out awesome. Have super plans how to continue from here. Again, finnish afer machining isnt super great but dont care, it will see some tig-glue so it will get worse before gets much better.

Next to open front and back faces for intercooler fittings. ¨Then need to design, draw and machine a plate to seal everything up.

does anybody like to see more?

[camcojb]

Definitely custom!!!!! :thumbsup:

[WSSix]

Glad to see you're still working on this and making progress! Thanks for sharing.

[214Chevy]

Wow!! :hail::hail:

[SuperB70]

Glad to see you're still working on this and making progress! Thanks for sharing.

Thx Trey,
Build is away ahead, actually there's like two things that are lacking. Diamond to make my pistons (after 3 orders 2 years of waiting) and me posting here.

Also the lack of comments makes me think that here isnt intress of builds like this.. since this is not a collection of parts from those usual companies.

[SuperB70]

Lets continue, making the twin throttle body intake elbow for 4.2L, 4.7L and 4.9L Kenne Bell superchargers.

After internet search couldnt find 5" thin wall 90 degree elbow with 1 r (5" this case) radius. So need to make some.

First draw a simple hammer form in Fusion 360, holes at the ends are for vise grips, hold the plane down. Use pieces of rubber hoses at noses of the pliers, dont make the panel.
Then 3D printed it out of plain PLA and started anneailing 2mm aluminium with sharpie and propane torch.
When you have burned the sharpie off, the aluminium is soft. Depends how much you shape it, you may need to redo the annealing.

After shaping with plastic slapper and shrinking I had four halfs done. Time to get them fit the machined flance, used machinest square and laser to determine where to cut the overlapping parts off.

Next task make mounting tool for the flance and bold it tight so it dosent deform under welding. To keep it straight. Tig-welded the halfs together and I also machined flance with O-ring groove for 102mm LS throttle body. Those got welded to open ends of the eblows.

After all was welded, I spend some time to file the seams and slapped them all smooth. I took it to work, machined mounting surface to our vertical milling machine and squared the TB flances, also the special flance in the middle. more that later..

That kind of vertical mill is powerful tool to have. Work area is measured in meters (feets), Table can be turned in one thousands of degree (0.001') or -millimeters. Just get your bearings with 3D measuring tool..
This kind of job is easy for this kind of machine, just turn the table 180 degree and you get both size parallel to each other with same mounting. Or 90 and machine the face of the middle flance. Everything it parallel and square and straight. Even machined the main flance straight as last task with another set up.

So lets get to back the square flance in the middle. I did re-machined that O-ring groove again. Thats how much it shrank in welding.
Anybody want to guess what is for?
Something outside of the box..again..

[camcojb]

Thx Trey,
Build is away ahead, actually there's like two things that are lacking. Diamond to make my pistons (after 3 orders 2 years of waiting) and me posting here.

Also the lack of comments makes me think that here isnt intress of builds like this.. since this is not a collection of parts from those usual companies.

I appreciate what you're doing. Different is good. We have good traffic here but it seems all they do is read, not post. Please don't take that as non-interest. :thumbsup:

[Tinker]

Also the lack of comments makes me think that here isnt intress of builds like this.. since this is not a collection of parts from those usual companies.


I agree with Jody that not much posting going on, but as a machinist and car guy, there is definitely interest in what you are doing. I have been wanting to machine and have slowly been engineering a billet intake for my car but serious lack of time gets in the way.

Keep up the awesome work and showing off your skills to us, it is appreciated!

[syborg tt]

I love following this build as you are doing things that most of us can't do. Learning a bunch here that is for sure.

[WSSix]

What others have said applies to me, too. I'm very busy in my life and simply don't have time to be communicative. I much prefer forums over IG and the like so I love seeing content like this.

Thanks

[ScotI]

What others have said applies to me, too. I'm very busy in my life and simply don't have time to be communicative. I much prefer forums over IG and the like so I love seeing content like this.

Thanks

Exactly. IG is fine for just looking @ images but it lacks what Forums are best for.... Information. Details. Discussions. Sharing ideas & knowledge.

[SuperB70]

Exactly. IG is fine for just looking @ images but it lacks what Forums are best for.... Information. Details. Discussions. Sharing ideas & knowledge.

Im there too. Like in many of my posts, I asking for discussion, ideas and feed back..

Somebody may know or notice something I have or going to booger up and dont know it yet..

[SuperB70]

So let continue, now Im going to show you, just you. You have to promise that you don't show this or talk about this to anyone outsider..

This is top secret stuff!!

Well have to confess that don't know if this actually works or not.. one those one off things.. Havent figured it out 100% yet..

AND I didnt come up this. Entirely, saw a post in IG of one drag race Mustang in somewhere NW of US. It had some odd squar tubing thingy bolted between throttle body and the supercharger and it had like legs sticking out on both sides of the supercharger and had blow off valves bolted on the ends..
So I had to contact the owner and ask more info about that. He told me that had come up as how to control the boost of the Kenne Bell-twin screw and best part that it works great.

I told him that I may copy his idea but would build it differently and take the idea even longer.
We have talked a lot since, tossed ideas back and forward..

Went and bought two cheap oriental copies of known blow off valves from evil-bay, just to get started. May buy real ones later.

So I designed and machined a kind of plenium for two blow off valves. But the air they bleed, is collected and circulated back to intake side of the supercharger. Between case and the throttlebodies.. Had to make those flances and tube between blow offs and intake. Also had to machine the body of the by pass to make a sealing flance to it.

Idea is to used as light springs in them, just so that valves are closed at natural state. When engine is running on vacuum (0.1 or more), valves would work as by-pass valves. Vacuum would be connected to " normal port", on top of the membrane.

Fun fact: Did you know that the twin screw is the only real compressor in automotive use that dosent leak (actually compresses air inside of it = compressor)so with out by-pass valve of some kind it tryes to suck it self to "bottle", heats up really bad and may even get damaged by doing so. So it needs some by- passing to survive.

And when engine goes on boost, the boost itself starts to push those 2" valves open and bleed off, back to intake. Loosing boost pressure.
Why back you may ask. Cos air is taken from the "cold" side of then intake after the massive special made intercooler, or intercoolers in this case.
Now the clever part, by controlling with ECU the PWM given dome pressure, I can adjust boost any given time, by traction, by gear, by power level tune or just like overtake button.

The part I havent figured out yet is the pneumatic valve. How to get it to work properly. First it deliveries vacuum on top of the membrane and when the boost comes on it turns and lets the PWM pulse through it but not to the intake where it takes the vacuum. We dont want pressurized air leak that way. Also it has to breaths so the PWM pulse would works fast and accurate.

The plan is to use compressed air as pressure source, car will have air compressor for the suspension coil over air cups. Engine ECU, swedish made Maxxecu PRO can handel the task.

By the way, Lysholm-factory calculated that 4.9L supercharger in my 8.3L engine with 3" upper pulley and my custom ordered 9"ish ATI Superdamber the boost pressure is just 54psi~3.78bars !! thats over x2 too much. Aim is for 1.5 bars max~ 21psi. The 4.9L supercharger is nuts. It puts out wopping just shy of 1m3 (one cubic meter = 100.000L) ~ (26417 gal) of air per minute. (to be exact: 0.98 m3 =98000L=25888gal per minute)

Nowdays there may be smarter option to this, again Im nnot 100% sure but Turbosmart has those electro-macnetic bypass valves of modern torquemanagement vehicles.. they may work in this application as well..

Next I'll do something cool and precise..

[SuperB70]

Well, lets do something else.

as a transmission I'm using 5 speed automatic from Mercedes.
Some will straight think that NAG-1. Close.
Same 5-stronic family but when Nag-1 actually is W5A580 (580Nm of torque rating) mine is W5A900, biggest and baddest of them all.

Used on AMG 65, Maybach 57 & 62 and SLR McLaren super car. This came out of rear ended Maybach at Florida.

I'm controlling it with Danish-made Of gear-controller, shifter out of e46 BWM, paddles of of AMG. More that later date.

Some many remember old picture like from 10 years ago that I posted about mating engine and trans with plywood adapter. That was just to get them hang to chassis when I was building it. Well, time and machines has changed some degree from those days.

At work place I studied how to use our 3D measuring arm, how to get points straight to our tool path program (Surfcam). It tells you the locations of the bolts, center of the crank, the hight difference of the flexplate vs block suface, converter bolt flance vs trans bolting surface. 'You even can get the shape of the block and trans housing if you like. As you can see on the photo I did copy some of the shade.

Took my engine block and trans with me one day and got to work.

Side story:
Social media showed its good side again. Was watching drag week live and saw Canadian team racing with grey twin turbo SRT-10 Ram, trans was out and I could see a orange flex plate bolted at back of the engine. Got me thinking.

Contacted the guy through Instagram and asked about it. He was kind enough to give me the contact info of the shop that makes them in California. Long story short, year later I got a custom SFI-proof flex plate between Viper and my trans.

Just needed to ream just a bit bolt holes bigger for ARP bolts.

Machined locator bolts for the block side, (normal unc-bolts with locator hole drilled on the head) and locator pins for the trans bolt holes. That way the measuring arms measuring pointy pen thing will always be in the center and right depth of every hole.

When design was right, upload the files, sourced material and needed tools to Haas-mill and pressed the green button.

Have to say the feeling was unreal when the adapter plate just slided on the dovels on the block the first time. The trans went in also like it was intended that way. I did machine an test piece, went to back of the cranks trans axle bearing housing w/ pointy head. Put that pointy thing back to trans oil pump "axle" to verified that everything was ok. Used dial-indicator and turned then test piece inside the mains and see are those two centric to each other.

Next the trans will go to get overhauled and upgraded, converter gets to be upgraded as well. keeping it as stock stall but have to fix the lock up problem that all 5-stronic converters have. Lock clutch is riding on just a little bit all the time. It need a kid of plate spring to be put in and all the vein solderd on, not just stamped.

Something else on next post....

[syborg tt]

And this is why I love Bulletin Boards.

The knowledge level here is incredible and it will always be here and easy to find.


Thank you again for sharing this build.

[SuperB70]

Lets get back to intake. It houses an stacked intercooler, two different coolers build in one set of headplates. So it needs end tanks to core and way of coolant get in and out. Let build those.

Core was designed and build by leading company in UK. Now days part of PWR group, as is C&R in US. Designed for 2000hp and huge supercharger pushing a lot of air as states earlier. Length of the whole intake and this kind of V10 has long intake. Amost 2 ft.
Core is 500mm (19.6" long), 100mm (4" wide) and 92mm (3.6") thick.

End tanks are milled from 20mm (just over 3/4") thick bar of billet, they have center wall dividing two sides. Draw up and made toolpaths.

Next was coolant connections, they where also easy parts, just machined AN20 male fitting on a lathe (manual), two different length so nut can be easily tighten. Other end has shoulder recess to fit the end tank opening, easier to weld on both sides. Now on later date, these are going to chance to modern push'n'lock automotive nylon fittings. Don't have room for big AN-fitting. You'll see when we get there.

So how to seal and be serviceable. Designed pieces of the manifold to be lifted off, allowing core to be lowered in its place, sealed with O-ring, bolt to place, another end plate out side, houses special polyurethane seals for the AN studs and O-ring to seal to manifold.

Machined it little rough tool paths on purposely to give it some texture. Mounting with sunked M8 allen bolts. Made plates to both ends of the intake, now coolant can be connected many different ways to it.

When welding all together, core will have side plates that will devide hot (center) off from cold (sides) side of the intake by simply been welded to core and bolted through top plate. After talked with the swedes, desided to machine extra space on bottom side of the top plate of the intake. milled off 5mm (almost 1/4") from hot side to give room to breath.

Enjoy,

[syborg tt]

Yep, Once again I am blown away by this thread and I can't wait to see more posts.

[SuperB70]

Thx, Marty.

Exhaust collectors, 5 to 1. Sure you can buy them, for me buying them from US and shipping here, after all the cost (shipping & taxes) they cost 1200€ (almost $1500/each) For that money I could just buy billet ones from Elmer Racing Shop here in Finland. They make worlds best billet collectors.
(elmerracing.com) non pay'd add.

so, you guested right, I gonna make my own:

First little calculations, as every good project starts with. Stainless steel, Slip fit 2" primaries,with 30 degree bends and 3.5" collectors
(We Finns have a saying that every project that has been properly planned thought is just starting away from been finish.) Well begun is half done

Then tested my calculations with cardboard (CAD=Cardboard Aided Design). Will the cutting ends meet at the middle and will the diameter fit for v-band.

Then designed cutting tool for my band saw, 3d printed from normal PLA-plastic. Also printed an clocking tool, how much I need to turn the pipe between cuts.
After all where cut, run them with polishing wheel, just make them look little nicer, specially at inner sides, I can polish them good on outside after welding. Not so much from the inside, center of the collector.

Then took 10mm - 3/8" steel plate and cut pieces of 2" exhaust tubing, mig welded them to calculated positions to use as welding fixture. Holes at the plate are for inside purge Argon gas. Tig welded them together, Added the v-band, off the fixture.

As you can see at the alst picture, they did deform on me doing the welding, they gather together little bit but I can live with that. Every primeries will have a press formed sleeve over it at the joint to collector, that way my lambda sensors don't get any fresh air between primeries and collectors.

What am I building next...:wacko:

[camcojb]

You've got too much time on your hands. :lol: Nice work! :thumbsup:

[jarhead]

Nice work Juhani!
Been dreaming up some 3D printed stuff as well.

[SuperB70]

Nice work Juhani!
Been dreaming up some 3D printed stuff as well.

Thx Joe,

Printer is just one more tool. Mine is old but builded and has print area of 20" square, got scanner and blue diode table laser also. They will be used in this build...

[89 RS]

Nice fab work!

[SuperB70]

Nice fab work!

Thx Corey.

Results of 30 years of want to learn and be better. Continues everyday.

As my (now past) friend Gene sad: Everyday is a school day.

[SuperB70]

You've got too much time on your hands. :lol: Nice work! :thumbsup:

No Jody,

Im just poor blue collar guy and born to country where you make you stuff yourself..

This is my interpretation of been build and not bought LoL

[SuperB70]

Lets continue. Even it looks like I don't get conversation going here.. go figure..

Last I showed how I made my collectors, is't time to build stainless headers.

Idea was to design those build blocks ( again, buying set and importing it here is way too expensive) But I found file from Grabcad that was right radius for me. So I started printing those out of PLA, no need any exotic material here. To make one set of shorties.

Next I draw and printed fixture to cut tubes in my band saw. Glued pieces of bicycle inner tube in it. Now it clamps much tighter.

I draw up a flance of ex side of the cylinder head. Made it so that every primeries has own, not all bridged together.

Made program to our vertical mill with Heidenhain.
Side note: If here are any machinist, if you look that picture, do you catch the great idea there?
I'll point it out: Table has upright 90 degree bench on it. There is "waste"plate bolted to that bench. Now you can mill that straight, or make a needed groove, an edge, or like me here, welded piece of axle and mill that to fixture for the flances. I can mill 1mm deeper and dont have to worry about hitting the expensive and hard bench. After I'm done, just cut the piece off and mill the surface flat again. You can see the groove there at the bottom, I used it to get my supercharger intake flance bolted vertical to it when I milled it to square and flat.

First I milled aluminium ones, with M6 threaded hole, to bolt first build block on them. Then chanced material to 10mm stainless and made real flances, with little recess around the port hole. For the tube to sunk, much better to weld.

Bolted aluminium ones to cylinder head and started to build primeries. So of my printed block broke right away or where loose so I secured the rotation with electric tape. What ever works/goes
Sorry about low quality picture, had to dig it out of old garage camera.

When all "tubes" where made, made sure that all had space to grow, connected to collector (witch was hold in its place with small made fixture witch was bolded to frame tube with coulpe hose clamps.) was time start transfer shapes to stainless. Cut and tack, 3 tacks to every joint.

I am as always critical about my welds (could be better), header came out "ok". I have stainless weld seam cleaning machine, all welds will be cleaned. Color is actually bad. My dry sump pump fit under it ( maybe, mounting system is still ongoing prosess in my head.

Then it was time to test fit the sleeves that I made with shop press. When using slide fit collectors those are good to use, reduse air leaking witch lambda don't like. Smaller end slide over the tube, it will be welded and bigger end goes over collector. Then little eyelets for spring to hold everything together.

Then I did the driver side, wanted them to look alike, even its not 100% possible for many reasons. One thing left to do is weld bungs for K-sensor (exhaust gas temperature) to every primeries. With that, again I run it to no space needed situation. Have room underside but tip of the sensor should be at main flow of the exhaust and that is on top of the tube, gases comes out on top of the exhaust port.. Really dont want to expose so much of the sensor. Would lead to premature sensor failure. Have to think solution..

Been thinking about stainless/ceramic wrap (dont like the look)or spray/powder ceramic coating on them. They will color up nicelly but heat control in mind.

Who's gonna guess what im going to show next?

[SuperB70]

Next thing is trans rear mount and tunnel.

First made tube that was used to bold middle plate to chassic, then thought I should do trans rear mount. Easier put in now than later. Draw design up, made toolpagths and wipped it out of block of aluminium.

Trans tunnel: wanted to make it as strong as I can. Pushing over 2000Nm ~1500ftlbs tq through automatic (any) transmission, better get ready for anything.
I used packing tape to get my hands on actual pattern. That way I could measure radius and all needed to turn this in to CAD. Made model with Fusion360, send it to work and continued w/ Solidworks. Turn it to .dxf. Tranfer file to cnc-plasma talbe, cut pieces out of 6mm (1/4") steel. Next walked to cnc-brake, insert program and bended piece to form. Worked pretty good at first time.

Grinded large reliefs and tig welded allaround. Short (2") seams here and there to keep heat build up away.

[camcojb]

:thumbsup: