1969 Speedtech Equipped Pro Touring Camaro

[garickman]

Been working on my 1969 Camaro in my two car garage for several years now. I bought this Camaro in Kansas about 5 years ago. Even though it was from Kansas this was one of the most rust free 1st Gen Camaro's I have ever seen. It had belonged to the same family since 1975 and it truly was kept in a barn.

With that being said, I have replaced nearly every panel on the car. It has a new full one piece floor pan, full trunk floor, both full quarter panels, custom firewall, new roof skin, tail panel, drop offs and rockers.

The reason everything needed to be replaced was so cool, I couldn't be to upset about it. As the owner described, "it was the early 80's, we lived on an 800 acre ranch with a natural creek running through it, a 1969 Camaro wasn't worth ****, me and my two brothers were teen agers and the Dukes of Hazard was the best show on TV"

I have dozens upon dozens of pictures of the tear down, and the bracing of the body on a jig replacing the panels, rust proofing etc. But we've all seen those type of pictures hundreds of time. I thought I would show some pics of some of the cooler things that were done. First was the process of how I got the perfect fitting rear spolier.

Fitting the rear spoiler Step One:

First, get yourself a friend who is a badass metal fabricator and have him make you a rear spoiler with the same shape and dimensions as the stock spoiler. Don't forget to notch the center.

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[garickman]

Fitting the rear spoiler Step Two:

Fit the spoiler on the car and decide you don't like because the ends above the quarter panels sit up too high.

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[garickman]

Fitting the rear spoler Step Three:

Mark the top of the quarter panels with an outline of where the spoiler lands when the trunk is closed. Cut out the marked area, recess it down about 3/32's of an inch and weld it back in place.

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[garickman]

Fitting the rear spoiler Step Four:

Find yourself an extra set of billet hood adjusters you have laying around along with some steel tubing you also have laying around. Cut tubing to proper size, weld in a nut and recess them into the tail panel. Insert hood adjusters and make sure your trunk closes the same every time.

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[garickman]

Fitting the rear spoiler Step Five:

Re-intall trunk lid. Hammer and dolly the ends of the spoiler to match the contour of the quarter panels. Add metal or trim metal where needed for perftect gaps.

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[garickman]

Fitting the rear spoiler Step 6:

Move on to the front spoiler, give your same badass friend the crappy original and tell him to duplicate it in metal. Then tell him to notch the center and make it look like the front and rear spoilers belong together.

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[214Chevy]

Nice fab work...

[garickman]

Nice fab work...

Thanks! Your build is pretty amazing, I have followed it since the begining. I am running the same firewall as you. I did modify it slightly because I am running the Wilwood pedals with the triple master cylinders. Here are some random pics of the install.

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[camcojb]

Nice build Greg!!

[garickman]

Opened up the stock lower valance for better cooling. The sides will allow air to the front brake ducts and the center will get air to the oil and power steering coolers. Wanted to leave the parking light/turn signals in the same location as stock so we just cut around them.

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[garickman]

I knew I wanted to run some yellow fog lights in the location of the original parking light/turn signals but I wasn't sure how I was going to do it. I ordered a set of yellow fog lights for a stock Jeep Wrangler. The original opening for the lights was about a 1/2 larger than the Jeep lights. Wasn't sure of the best way to close this gap so I bought a set of 5 inch into 4 1/2 diesel exhaust pipe transitions and grafted them into place. Then fabbed some mounting tabs to attach the fog lights and keep them adjustable.

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[garickman]

Now that I was running fog lights, I need a new place for turn signals. I sketched out an idea for some one-off billet housings which would hold a switch back turn signal/DRL. I sent them to Jonathon at Sparc Industries and he machined up a set of lights that "float" in the center of the brake duct openings.

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[garickman]

It's a little bit hard to see, but if you look at that last picture of the front end you will see that the bumper "fangs" that normally highlight the license plate area have been moved outward and now highlight the foglight area. We used three bumpers to make the one on the car now.

[garickman]

Here is a few random pics of some work on the front bumper.

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[214Chevy]

Thanks! Your build is pretty amazing,



Thanks for the compliment. Nice work on the front valance and bumper. I used 2 bumpers on mine and got rid of the fangs on mine.

[Sheck44]

Beautiful build Greg !!
So whats the drivetrain of choice for this bad ass machine ??

Cheers
Steve

[WSSix]

I really like what you've done with the front end. Keep this pics coming.

[slimjim]

great craftsmanship, that front end will look great when finished

[garickman]

Thanks for the compliment. Nice work on the front valance and bumper. I used 2 bumpers on mine and got rid of the fangs on mine.

I was originally going to get rid of the "fangs" also. I do love the smooth look. In the end I just decided to move them outward because I wanted something different. As you know it is so difficult to do somethnig on a 69 Camaro that hasn't been done before.

[dhutton]

Great vision and execution!

Don

[garickman]

Beautiful build Greg !!
So whats the drivetrain of choice for this bad ass machine ??

Cheers
Steve

Thanks for the compliment! The engine is most likely going to be a LS7 427 wet sump. Hopefully built from Texas Speed or Late Model Engines. However my life might dictate that it could be just the GM crate LS7. I have a brand new T56 Magnum sitting in the garage and right next to that is a fully assembled full floater rear end built by Speedtech.

The rear end is the Speedtech Extreme 9 with full floater axles. It has a Strange HD Pro aluminum case with an Eaton Trutrac, Strange chromoly yoke, Dutchman axles, C7 hubs and REM polished gears. Gears are US Gear Lightning series. It also has additional bungs welded in for an external cooler if ever needed.

[jmac]

Nice build thread going, love to see all the fab work. Nice job!

[garickman]

I really like what you've done with the front end. Keep this pics coming.

great craftsmanship, that front end will look great when finished

Great vision and execution!

Don

Thanks guys! When I started the build, I was brain storming with a friend about the vision for this car. I do love all the full on pro touring builds with the front and rear splitters and the highly modified interiors but in the end I wanted a very capable pro touring auto cross car with a classic look and feel. I like to refer to it as "Pro-Classic". I wanted the front and rear spoilers to have the same shape and dimensions as the original. I am keeping the stock louvers on the quarter panels. I still like the look the of the chrome rocker moldings, although mine have been slightly modified and are fully CNC machined.

I am keeping all of the stainless window trim. The dash has been modified to accept the Holley 12.3 Pro Dash but it still has the look and feel of the original dash. Same with the center console. I want a modern pro touring beast, but I want to feel like I'm in a 69 Camaro, if that makes any sense.

[garickman]

Speaking of my CNC machined rocker moldings, here is how that vision started. I follow most of the Roadster Shop builds, especially first gen Camaro's. The recent build for Joe Rogan had some amazing hand fabricated rocker moldings. I kind of put it in the back of my mind that I may be able to do something very similiar but with my own twist like putting a notch down the center that matches the notches on my front and rear spoilers. Anyway, a few months later I took apart my ashtray to modify it so I could put some Holley Dominater goodies inside.

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Part of the ash tray had this little angled hinge thingy that looked like the perfect shape of the rocker molding that I wanted. I taped that piece on the car and liked the look and shape. I sent it to Vince at Mean Streets Performance and he bent me a full piece rocker molding with same shape. I taped that piece on the car, angle cut the ends and made some sharpie markings of where I wanted the notch centered on the door. Sent that piece to TJ of Atomic Machine in Nebraska and he machined some badass rocker moldings for me that now match my spoilers.

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[garickman]

Here are some hood louvers from Frank with Gray Area Steel Co. Amazing hand fabricated hood louvers with a perfect fit and finish.

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[garickman]

Some underhood work, filling in some holes and the porsche/VW hood latch modifications.

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[garickman]

Modified the headlight buckets to accept some JW Speaker LED headlights and still allow the doors to close.

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[garickman]

Made a new core support hood latch from scratch. This allows me to mount the external oil cooler and power steering cooler centered in the grill opening. I needed to be able to mount the Porsche/VW hood latch and most importantly, my OCD would not allow me to have a bracket that was offset and not centered in the grill opening.

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[garickman]

Here is some work that went into installing the Porsche/VW hood latch.

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[garickman]

Here is the closeout panel we made to hide everything. This is a drop in removeable panel. There is a lip on the back side which drops down over the stock core support to allow it to sit in place. Once it is in, it really doesn't move at all. However it is held in place with the bolts that hold the billet fender braces. This piece will be body worked and painted the same satin black as the engine bay.

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[garickman]

Here are the rear bumper mods. Pretty much typical of what everyone does now. Modify the brackets and pull it in closer to the body. Cut off the ends and tuck them closer and shave the bolts for a smooth look. Although I can appreciate the amount of work, I am not a big fan of notching the quarter panels with a pocket to bring the sides of the bumper in. I like the classic look so I just contoured them a little better to the body and thinned out the bulky ends a little bit.

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[garickman]

I did want to keep the original bumperettes (Pro-Classic), so I modified the the mounting brackets and the angle where the meet the bumper. The originals just sat out too far.

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This picture shows the difference after some slight mods. The driver side is now much closer to the body and has been contoured to the shape of the lower panel. The passenger side has not been modified yet.

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Here is what it looked like when I was done.

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[garickman]

In an earlier post I mentioned I am trying to keep the interior very close to classic with a few modern touches like adding the Holley 12.3 Pro Dash. I also wanted the two center A/C ducts to appear similiar to original but I can't stand the poor fitment into the dash pad. I fabricated a steel pocket and welded it to the dash. I used some stamped recessed panels from Holohans Hot Rods to install the Vintage Air rectangle vents. I cut the crap out of DSE steel dash insert and modified it to my liking. Some custom CNC and carbon fiber work and I now had a matching bezel for my Holley dash and the passenger side dash plaque and grab handle.

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[garickman]

Since the dash had been modified, I needed a custom dash pad. Again trying to keep with somewhat of a classic look. We hand fabricated a dash pad base out of steel and made it attach the exact same as the original pad. Then we made a giant mess with some expanding foam and started to carve out something close to original.

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[garickman]

I sent the newly fabricated dash pad to Tony Stitches in Washington and this is what he sent me back.

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He also covered my Shop LLC kick panels.

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[garickman]

Rear seate delete. This will house the battery, amps and some other electronic goodies. I raised the floor and the sides of the tunnel to help tuck the 3 inch exhaust and Borla mufflers. I made the muffler pockets extra tall so I can also add some heat sheilds to the mufflers as well. Help keep heat out of the electronics area. That piece in the center with over 100 small bow ties cut into is the speaker grill for the 10 inch subwoofer. 1/8 thick aluminum that was laser cut. There is matching laser cut grilles for the speakers in the package tray also. The bow ties are even smaller.

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[garickman]

DSE spring pocket reinforcements.

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[garickman]

Aerial view of the rear package tray. The ill fitment of the laser cut speaker grill has already been addressed.

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[214Chevy]

Greg, you've been holding out on us, I see. Nonetheless, thanks for all of the great pics. At the behest of my builder, I just brought my rear bumper in closer to the body as well and didn't notch or cut into the quarter panel...he made a good call and I love the look. Keep the updates coming.

[garickman]

Random trunk pics. This a CNC machined billet fuel tank access panel. It came for Billy Utley at B&B Classics.

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The rectangle plates are reinforcement plates for the crossmember of the Speedtech torque arm.

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We later welded the roll cage to the Speedtech reinforcement plates.

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And a few more shots

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[frankv11]

Wow green just went trough your whole thread loving all the fresh ideas you’ve incorporated, my favorite would have to the spoiler . You got an eye fore style .

[garickman]

Greg, you've been holding out on us, I see. Nonetheless, thanks for all of the great pics. At the behest of my builder, I just brought my rear bumper in closer to the body as well and didn't notch or cut into the quarter panel...he made a good call and I love the look. Keep the updates coming.

Yeah, I know everyone likes pictures so I figured I would wait until I had enough.

[garickman]

Wow green just went trough your whole thread loving all the fresh ideas you’ve incorporated, my favorite would have to the spoiler . You got an eye fore style .

Thanks Frank, but shouldn't your favorite be the hood vents?

[garickman]

Keeping with the Pro-Classic theme, I wanted the center console to appear as stock as possible but with some modern amenities for comfort. One-off CNC parts by Jonathon at Sparc Industries allowes for housing the Vintage Air A/C controller and some 22mm billet buttons. Five billet toggle switches from Ring Brothers control the windows and power door locks and another CNC machined panel holds the cup holders and power outlets.

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[garickman]

Just like the dash, I sent the center console to Tony Stitches in Washington and this is what he sent me back.

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[214Chevy]

A'ha...I've seen those pieces being made at Jonathan's shop and didn't know who they were for. He'll be working on a sweet billet grill for me here before too long. Just waiting on him to come and scan my car. He's local to me...

[garickman]

A'ha...I've seen those pieces being made at Jonathan's shop and didn't know who they were for. He'll be working on a sweet billet grill for me here before too long. Just waiting on him to come and scan my car. He's local to me...

Billet grill....sick! Jonathon is a bad dude for sure.

[garickman]

Under carriage seam sealed, epoxy coated and raptor lined.

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[garickman]

Here are a few more random pics when I was working on the rear seat delete.

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[garickman]

Forgeline wheels, 19X12 rear and 19X10 1/2 front. Trying to keep it a little classic with the timeless 5 spoke wheel.

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[garickman]

Speedtech Extreme subframe connectors and crossmember along with the extreme tunnel.

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[130fe]

Wow Greg! Some awesome mods!

[garickman]

I don't really have plans to do anything to extreme with the car that would require a cage but I did want to put something in that might give a little protection and give me a place to mount some 4 point harnesses. Decided to make a removeable 4 point roll bar. Used steel reinforcement plates on the floors and 1/4 inch steel plates where the rear bars bolt into the package tray area. The interior cage is a bolt in removeable piece. All of the bars in the trunk area are welded in. The four exposed socket head bolts in the package tray area will have a billet cap that covers them. The round 1/4 plates in the package tray are welded directly to the down bars in the trunk not just to the sheet metal package tray.

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[garickman]

Full disclosure, I would call myself an average welder at best. I can mig weld but I have never tig welded. Truth be known, I am probably a better grinder than welder. All the exposed welds that look good, and all the structural welds on this car were not done by me. They were done be people who do it for a living. Don't want to take credit for things I didn't do.

[garickman]

Perfect body gaps....another disclosure. I had nothing to do with getting any of the gaps to look like this. I tried to gap the driver door my self and after about 3 hours of messing with the door hinges and the fender and trying to get everything in sync I wanted to blow my head off. Kudos to all you guys who know how the get the perfect body gaps. I swear I took pics of the passenger side also but I can't find them. It looks the same as the driver side though.

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[garickman]

Pretty much everything inside the car was taken down to bare metal so the entire interior got epoxied. Then it was covered with a layer of dynamat extreme. The inside roof panel was covered with a layer of second skin.

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[srode1]

I didn't realize the Speedtech cross brace / driveshaft loop extended up beyond the floorboard until I saw your pictures, thanks for posting.

[garickman]

I didn't realize the Speedtech cross brace / driveshaft loop extended up beyond the floorboard until I saw your pictures, thanks for posting.

The entire cross brace actually sits on top of the floor pan. The only place where it penetrates through the floor is about a 4 inch section on each side of the trans tunnel. This portion that extends through the floor is where you bolt on the brace for the torque arm. The ends of the cross brace get welded directly to the rockers above the floor pan and the subframe connectors come up through the floor and welded to the cross brace. The seat pans will have to be notched slightly on the left and right to go over the cross brace as well as down the middle to clear a portion of the subframe connector.

I know I had some pictures of the entire install process but I cant find them. Here is a picture of how they come through the floor pan.

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[garickman]

I will be using the Procar Elite seat. The biggest advantage of these seats is the low cost. For me they are a very comfortable seat with good support. They also had the most classic look of the other seats I looked at. Remember the whole "Pro-Classic" vibe. The seats will be recoverd in leather with a charcoal houndstooth insert from Relicate Leather.

I didn't want to use the diriect fit brackets which would have raised the height of the seat so I just cut up the sliders and made new reinforced mounting tabs so the sliders were a direct bolt on in the front. I moved the bolt holes in the rear of the floor pan to bolt in the rear sliders. With the seat being lower it put the seat back adjust handle very close to the floor. It didn't seem like it would work by the time I put in sound deadner, underlayment and carpet so I notched the rocker portion to make some more room. I know that rocker panel is structural, so we did weld in some gussets and used 1/8 steel to replace the portion I cut out.

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[garickman]

Speedtech Extreme Subframe and Speedtech Extreme Inner Fenders

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[Jay Hilliard]

Great job Greg and nice attention to detail. Enjoyed all the pics.

[garickman]

Not much of an update but the car is now in full epoxy and ready to move on to the body work phase. Every part of this car was taken down to bare metal and the appropriate coatings have been used where needed, including Por-15, Rust Mort, Epoxy, Weld Thru Primer and SEM Rock-it undercoating. The epoxy on the body is over bare metal, no body filler has been used as of yet.

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[ScotI]

Impressive for being over bare metal.

[214Chevy]

Impressive for being over bare metal.

I second that...

[garickman]

Great job Greg and nice attention to detail. Enjoyed all the pics.

Thanks Jay. Glacier Blue is on my short list of final colors. You did an amazing job on your build. Love that color combo witht the stripe.

[garickman]

Few pics of the Speedtech/Dutchman full floater rear, Speedtech torque arm and Stoptech brakes.

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[waynieZ]

Nice progress, it looks great.

[ErikLS2]

Speedtech Extreme subframe connectors and crossmember along with the extreme tunnel.

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Very nice workmanship on your car Greg, and great thread! I'm working on getting the exact same Extreme package in my '69. Did your torque arm crossmember fully contact the rockers? I had to make an extension for mine (all orig sheetmetal) to take up a decent gap. The subframe connectors could have been a 1/2" longer too in my case. Thanks!

[garickman]

Very nice workmanship on your car Greg, and great thread! I'm working on getting the exact same Extreme package in my '69. Did your torque arm crossmember fully contact the rockers? I had to make an extension for mine (all orig sheetmetal) to take up a decent gap. The subframe connectors could have been a 1/2" longer too in my case. Thanks!

Yes, I think I just got lucky in my case. I was actually surprised. I did not need to add or trim any material off the crossmember or subframe connectors. They laid perfect the first time. Funny because after I mocked them up, they fit so good I thought to myself I must be doing something wrong.

[cwylie]

Obviously highly modified but what center console did you start with there?

Just like the dash, I sent the center console to Tony Stitches in Washington and this is what he sent me back.

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[garickman]

Started off as a Fesler console.

[garickman]

Commence with the body work

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[Spiffav8]

That's no easy task! Takes a lot of time and talent. Enjoy the process!!!!!

[garickman]

That's no easy task! Takes a lot of time and talent. Enjoy the process!!!!!

I have a friend from California who is here in Utah doing the body work for me. He comes out usually once or twice a month. Hoping I can learn some of the tricks of the trade but I agree it's definatley a talent. What a long and tedious process.

[garickman]

As the bodywork continues, TJ at Atomic Machine and Design is making me some billet caps to cover the exposed socket head bolts where the roll bar mounts into the package tray. Here is some pics of the cad work and the 3D printed prototype. Two piece design, will be held in place with magnets.

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[garickman]

Not much of an update. Body work is progressing nicely. Should have a few pics to post up later this evening. Finally started to organize the garage and take inventory of all the parts I have in different areas of my house. Wegner WAK033 LS front drive, BTR Trinity LS7 intake manifold and a set of Wegner hidden coil valve covers. For those that don't know, running the triple master cylinder set can cause somewhat of a clearance issue for certain valve covers. I wanted to keep the coils on the valve covers so I went with the "short" version from Wegner. Although they look shiney, the valve covers are actually just the raw finish. They are being sent to Ring Brothers to be painted orange along with the block and heads.

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[garickman]

About 40% done. It's looking really good. It is laser straight and the gaps are perfect.

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[camcojb]

Greg,

Where did you get those d-ring bolt on tie downs?


https://www.lateral-g.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=76028&d=1628971327

[garickman]

Those are from Speedtech.

https://speedtechperformance.com/product/trailer-tie-down-brackets/

[camcojb]

:thumbsup:

[Sheck44]

Holy sh!t Greg ... this build is awesome, I love everything about the build.
Jonathan is such a great guy, your lucky to have him there

Funny, a lot of the CNC stuff your are doing is exactly what I am doing on my latest Landcruiser build, but I am leaving mine bare CNC

Now did I miss it, or am I assuming the car is going to be orange to match the colour of the calipers ??

Cheers
Steve

[jarhead]

Love that this is garage built, awesome detail!
The Dukes of Hazard story had me envisioning them beating this on the farm :lmao:

[garickman]

Holy sh!t Greg ... this build is awesome, I love everything about the build.
Jonathan is such a great guy, your lucky to have him there

Funny, a lot of the CNC stuff your are doing is exactly what I am doing on my latest Landcruiser build, but I am leaving mine bare CNC

Now did I miss it, or am I assuming the car is going to be orange to match the colour of the calipers ??

Cheers
Steve

Thanks, that's a big compliment coming from you. I follow your builds and each one is absolutely amazing! It is so hard trying to do something that has not been done and still keep it looking like a 69 Camaro.

My calipers are actually black, the LS7 engine will be the standard Chevy orange. I have gone back and forth with colors but I always go back to my first choice which is white with a black hockey stripe.

[garickman]

Love that this is garage built, awesome detail!
The Dukes of Hazard story had me envisioning them beating this on the farm :lmao:

Yeah, you can't be mad at that!

[87SS]

NICE....Can't wait to see it all done! Good Luck!

[Ricochet]

Amazing build.. Attention to detail is second to none. And I'll echo what others said.. Being a garage built car makes it even better!! Keep up the great work!!

[garickman]

Friend from Cali came back for a few days. Spent the entire time getting the front end dialed in and the making the RS grille fit correctly. Not an easy task.

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[garickman]

Not really feeling the flat panel I had made for my Holley 12.3 Pro Dash. I am making a mock up piece to send to Atomic Machine. Going to give it a little more character and some depth to it. TJ will be able to work some CNC magic on my crude mock up.

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[SuperB70]

Good job, nice details.

[garickman]

Ordered some high build polyester primer. This means we are getting close to the next phase of body work.

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[garickman]

I forgot to mention this before, but I am using the fiberglass deck lid cover which I purchased from BBT Fabrications. It is a decorative cover for the underside of the trunk lid. It is a very nice piece and with a little bit of trimming it fit perfect. Rather than using exposed fasteners to hold this piece on, I will be using velcro at the top and the trunk hinges will secure it at the bottom. The fiberglass cover is just over 1/8" thick which posed a problem because it raised the deck lid up that amount in the rear when it is closed. We removed the stock trunk hinges and cut 1/8" from the center so the deck lid would close like stock again. With the additional weight of the cover, body filler, and the steel fabricated spoiler, we modified the stock hinges further to accept a set of gas struts which were purchased from the Ring Brothers. This made it very smooth to open the trunk and keep it open with the additional weight. I am also using a polished stainless steel trunk striker from Mad Mooks.

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Here is a link to the trunk striker.

https://madmooks.com/67-69-camaro-trunkstriker

[garickman]

Originally I was going to relocate my battery to the trunk. Since I did the rear seat delete and moved the battery to that location, I decided to use the trunk space where the battery would have been for some additional storage. I bought a pair of Eddie Motorsports battery hold downs and had Josh from True Metal Shaping in Cedar City Utah make me a couple of 14 gauge boxes. He made them the same size as a battery so they stay locked down. I will use wing nuts to make the tops easy to remove and access the boxes.

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[garickman]

LSX 427 being built by Wegner Motorsports. It is currently at the Ring Brothers shop waiting to be painted Chevy orange. Then it will head back to Wegner to be dynoed. Should produce around 650HP. I let them know I was willing to sacrifice power for drivability, so it should be pretty street friendly.

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[214Chevy]

Nice progress Greg...

[garickman]

Engine is done. Won't have dyno numbers until tomorrow.

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[Tinker]

Should produce around 650HP. I let them know I was willing to sacrifice power for drivability, so it should be pretty street friendly.


OMG I love the times we live in now. 100 hp more than a nascar cup car is a nice street motor!
Engine looks fantastic!

[camcojb]

Engine is done. Won't have dyno numbers until tomorrow.


Looks great Greg!

[garickman]

Quick question. Below are two pictures from LS engines that have the intake painted orange as well. These just both happen to be supercharged while mine is N/A.

Should I:

Leave the intake the way it came with the black wrinkled finish?

Smooth the plenum and runners and paint them gloss black?

Smooth the plenum and runners and paint them orange?

If it matters, my engine bay will be satin black like the 2nd pic of the DSE Tux Camaro.

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[Mikael A]

Looks great,I would leave it alone but that’s my opinion.
I’m not making that decision on mine until its all together so i can see the differences in contrast and colors in the whole engine bay.

[garickman]

Looks great,I would leave it alone but that’s my opinion.
I’m not making that decision on mine until its all together so i can see the differences in contrast and colors in the whole engine bay.

Good point.

[camcojb]

The only thing I'd consider is a black anodized thermostat housing and either stainless or black heater hose fittings.. I like the intake the way it is.

[garickman]

Dyno numbers are in. 677 max HP and 561 max torque.

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[camcojb]

:thumbsup:

[214Chevy]

Dyno numbers are in. 677 max HP and 561 max torque.

Nice!!

[Sheck44]

Greg ... PERFECT, you hit that 'magic' power # for the street buddy !
Cheers
Steve

[garickman]

TJ from Atomic Machine sent be back some CAD drawings for the new Holley Pro Dash bezel. This bezel has a little more depth and much more character than the first one. TJ included some subtle notches which will match the other notches on the car like the front spoiler, rear spoiler, package tray, deck lid cover, roll bar covers and the BBT Fab rear view mirror.

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[214Chevy]

Greg, I'm digging that rear view deck. It's sick!! I have BBT’s rear view mirror too. Very nice piece…

[garickman]

They make nice parts!

[572Camaro]

Your car is awesome.
Please don’t paint your intake.
I like it the way it is.
Nice contrast.., doesn’t look so “dipped” in one color.

[garickman]

That seems to be the consensus on the intake, so I think I will leave it.

[garickman]

I don't know how to post a video but here is a link to the dyno run on my Wegner built 427. If anyone is interested.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o622KTeOUbM

[214Chevy]

There you go Greg...fixed it for you...


o622KTeOUbM

[garickman]

Awesome! Thank you Sir.

[camcojb]

I don't know how to post a video but here is a link to the dyno run on my Wegner built 427. If anyone is interested.


How to embed a Youtube video on Lateral-G (https://lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php?t=48663)

[camcojb]

I don't know how to post a video but here is a link to the dyno run on my Wegner built 427. If anyone is interested.


How to embed a Youtube video on Lateral-G (https://lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php?t=48663)

[Spiffav8]

Love the way this project is turning out. :D

[camcojb]

Love the way this project is turning out. :D

Love to see how your project is turning out. :secret:

[Spiffav8]

Love to see how your project is turning out. :secret:

LMAO.... not much to show, but I'll start a thread.

[garickman]

While the body work continues, I am working on knocking some other items off of my to do list. In continuing with my pro-classic theme, I wanted to keep the original 3 spoke steering wheel. I know I have said this before, but I still want it to feel like I am driving a 69 Camaro. The grip on the original NK1 steering wheel was just a little to skinny for my liking. I peeled the original grip off and sent the steering wheel to Greg from GP Raceworks. He 3D printed me a slightly larger grip which had to be printed in 4 pieces and then epoxied back together around the steering wheel. This grip will now be wrapped in leather. The steering wheel and original horn button will be finished in a black cerakote.

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[ScotI]

Very cool. I like that 'original' vibe tweaked to how you want it. It has the 'nothing to see here folks' yet is actually custom. Cool to know/have people involved in your project that can help w/things that you want to tweak.

[garickman]

Very cool. I like that 'original' vibe tweaked to how you want it. It has the 'nothing to see here folks' yet is actually custom. Cool to know/have people involved in your project that can help w/things that you want to tweak.

Yeah, it's cool. I have so many people involved in this project from about 6 different states. I would say about half of them I found from Instagram. That's why I try to give a shout out to everyone involved. Maybe other people working on a project might want to contact them. Keep the small businesses in business!

[garickman]

Still plugging away on the body work. I've already talked about and posted pictures of the hundreds of hours we have getting all the gaps perfect on this car. We also have many many hours in getting the "seams" perfect on the car.

Here is the "seam" where the tail panel meets the quarter panel.

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"Seam" where the rear window filler panel meets the quarter panel

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"Seam" where the quarter panel meets the rocker panel.

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"Seam" where the front fender meets the lower fender extension.

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"Seam" where the header panel meets the front fender.

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"Seam" where the fender meets the lower fender extension.

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"Seam' where the lower spoiler meets the lower valance.

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[Spiffav8]

Going to be super tight!

[garickman]

Might as well body work the inside of the trunk while we're at it. No enclosure or fancy covered panels. Roll bar will be painted satin black while the rest of te trunk will be spatter painted like original.

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[warhawkchevelle]

Looking amazing!

[garickman]

Collecting the last of the remaining parts. New glass all the way around, Rick's Vaporworx tank with ZL-1 pump, American Autowire, United Pacific LED tail lights and Michelin PS4's. 325 rears and 305 fronts.

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[garickman]

Just starting to work on the original stainless window trim. It is going to take quite some time to get every piece to fit like this one. Once it is perfect I will send it off to get fully polished.

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[Ricochet]

Looking good!!! Keep up the amazing work!

[syborg tt]

Man I love this thread.

Car looks amazing.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Vince@Meanstreets]

this car deserves better than white paint :sieg:

[garickman]

this car deserves better than white paint :sieg:

First I want to say that I am honored to receive only your second post in more than a year. I have gone back and forth on the color several times. I just keep falling back to white with a black hockey stripe. My first color was Laguna Blue. Here is a front view rendering Ben from Street Rod Designs did for me a while back.

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[214Chevy]

I vote BLUE!! :excited::excited:

[garickman]

I vote BLUE!! :excited::excited:

I may have to reconsider.

[68454RS]

this car deserves better than white paint :sieg:

I'm offended ... lol

[ScotI]

It's all about what YOU want/like. White is a great option.

[camcojb]

It'd be hard to say this doesn't look great.

IcoK8PO7UaU

https://stielowengineering.com/

[garickman]

Got my Holley Pro Dash bezel from TJ at Atomic Machine. This will be powder coated gloss black to match the gloss black A/C bezels and the gloss black dash plaque on the passenger side.

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[garickman]

GP Manufacturing also finished the cerakote on the steering wheel. I'll send this off next week for the leather wrap.

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[cwylie]

That's too pretty to powder coat. You should anodize it!

Got my Holley Pro Dash bezel from TJ at Atomic Machine. This will be powder coated gloss black to match the gloss black A/C bezels and the gloss black dash plaque on the passenger side.

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[garickman]

That's too pretty to powder coat. You should anodize it!

That was the first thing I thought when I looked at it. I have no other parts in the interior that are anodized. I only have two colors of black on the interior which are satin and gloss. I thougt it might not look right if this was the only thing anodized.

[garickman]

Here is the completed steering wheel back from GP Manufacturing. I am looking for a good place to send this to get a leather wrap if anyone knows of one.

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[214Chevy]

Here is the completed steering wheel back from GP Manufacturing. I am looking for a good place to send this to get a leather wrap if anyone knows of one.

77898

Don't know where you're located, but send it to Lopez Custom's in California. That's where I sent mine. They are A-1. His son is Gabe's Custom's as well. Basically the same business so to speak. They did the interior on the 69 Camaro named Grimm 7.0. They also did the interior of the 55 Chevy named Brute Force too. Just naming a few of the top builds they've done to let you know the level of work they do.

https://lopezperformance.com

[garickman]

Don't know where you're located, but send it to Lopez Custom's in California. That's where I sent mine. They are A-1. His son is Gabe's Custom's as well. Basically the same business so to speak. They did the interior on the 69 Camaro named Grimm 7.0. They also did the interior of the 55 Chevy named Brute Force too. Just naming a few of the top builds they've done to let you know the level of work they do.

https://lopezperformance.com

Thanks for the tip. I just sent them a message through instagram.

I remember your steering wheel from your build thread. They did a really nice job.

[214Chevy]

Thanks for the tip. I just sent them a message through instagram.

I remember your steering wheel from your build thread. They did a really nice job.

Yeah, I'm satisfied with it. They actually do all of the wraps for Jonathan at Sparc who made my steering wheel and some of your billet parts.

[garickman]

Top of the hood is now flawless with the Gray Area Steel hood louvers. Bottom is in epoxy primer and ready for body work.

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[syborg tt]

This thread just keeps getting better and better.

Not sure what I love more the steering wheel or the dash bezel.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[garickman]

Steering wheel is back after leather wrap. The first people I contacted never got back to me so I found someone in Arizona. Instagram is steering wheel art and the only thing he does is cover steering wheels.

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[Musclerodz]

Top of the hood is now flawless with the Gray Area Steel hood louvers. Bottom is in epoxy primer and ready for body work.

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I would bolt the hood to the car and block it. It will change as soon as you have hinge pressure on it.

[Jimbo1367]

I like the hood adjusters on the truck. Slick idea but how do you plan for rain runoff? Do you plan on a drain tube? If you would off left a lip or seal it off flush. What’s your plan?

Thanks,
Jimbo

[garickman]

I would bolt the hood to the car and block it. It will change as soon as you have hinge pressure on it.

We had the hood on and latched in place with the hood bumpers set when we did the mud work around the edges. Took it off to work the center and underside. We will bolt it back in place to lay down the polyester primer, guide coat and final blocking. I have done a few builds over the years, nothing to this level. It still blows my mind how many times this car has been assembled, dis-assembled and re-assembled.

[garickman]

I like the hood adjusters on the truck. Slick idea but how do you plan for rain runoff? Do you plan on a drain tube? If you would off left a lip or seal it off flush. What’s your plan?

Thanks,
Jimbo

It is hard to tell in the pics, but the area around the hood bumpers is slightly raised to form a small crown. The body filler defined the crown a little bit more. We ran a small stream of water down the channel on each side of the trunk and the water never did climb the crown, it just went right around.

[garickman]

Since the rear bumper will be painted body color, we spent an entire day body working it and getting it fitted for the final time.

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[Musclerodz]

We had the hood on and latched in place with the hood bumpers set when we did the mud work around the edges. Took it off to work the center and underside. We will bolt it back in place to lay down the polyester primer, guide coat and final blocking. I have done a few builds over the years, nothing to this level. It still blows my mind how many times this car has been assembled, dis-assembled and re-assembled.

just wait till its painted, and then start scratching your head wondering why it won't go back together just as perfectly as you took it apart to paint.

[garickman]

When I originally fit the front bumper, it was in bare metal along with the fenders and header panel and everything fit perfect except the grille. I had never done this before so I figured I would trim and sand the grille where needed to make it fit. Then when my body guy came back, he did not want to modify the grille at all because it would weaken it around the edges because the grille is stepped in the back. So we spent countless hours metal working the fenders to make the grille fit perfect. Which it does.

Now came time to fit the front bumper and obviously it did not fit as perfect as it once did. We spent 6 1/2 more hours on the front bumper and only got the drivers side done. It was basically on-off-cut-weld-grind and repeat. We took the grille on and off again 6 times and had the bumper on and off a total of 12 times. I'm sure we will be doing the same for the passenger side.

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[Mikael A]

Looks great :thumbsup:

[garickman]

Looks great :thumbsup:

Thanks! I'm diggin' Plan Bee.

[garickman]

Got the passenger side of the bumper all dialed in with the grille and fender. Gaps on each side are perfect matches and the "V" in the bumper sits perfect with "V" in the grille, header panel and lower valance. Did notice that the passenger side "fang" is off by about an 1/8th of an inch. Probably won't be noticeable to anyone, but I know it's off so it will be cut off and moved to the center by 1/8th. Should have about 50 hours into the grille, bumper, fender fitment. Well worth the effort though.

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[garickman]

Well that was a little more work than I thought, but the "fangs" are perfect. We used masking tape to make a template of the drivers side"fang" and then reversed it for the pattern of the passenger side "fang". Although the majority of work was done to the passenger side, we ended up working both of them to get them the same. We are really close, probably another 10-15 hours of final prep work before my guy lays down the polyester.

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[Mike a]

Can't wait to see her in primer :gitrdun:

[waynieZ]

I’m with you Mike.

[garickman]

This means we are really really close........

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[garickman]

Nothing to see here! Just hanging parts in my driveway.

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[garickman]

Four coats of G2 Feather Fill Polyester.

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[garickman]

My guy TJ, Atomic Machine and Design is at it again. He is getting ready to machine these valve cover emblems for me. He did all the cad work also and based them off the original Yenko 427 badges.

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[214Chevy]

My guy TJ, Atomic Machine and Design is at it again. He is getting ready to machine these valve cover emblems for me. He did all the cad work also and based them off the original Yenko 427 badges.

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Nice touch Greg...

[garickman]

Looking forward to this weekend!

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[Mikael A]

Looks great, can't wait to see:whenitsdone:

[garickman]

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[Spiffav8]

Looking really GOOD!!! :thumbsup::thumbsup:

[garickman]

Time for some guide coat. We'll block this to perfection before laying down the PPG CRE Epoxy Primer.

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[ErikLS2]

Making awesome progress Greg, thanks for sharing all your work. I sent you a PM the other day, did you just put the trans tunnel in as high as you could reasonably get it? I'm trying to decide if I want to gamble and put mine in before I get my T56 Magnum transmission.

[garickman]

Making awesome progress Greg, thanks for sharing all your work. Did you just put the trans tunnel in as high as you could reasonably get it? I'm trying to decide if I want to gamble and put mine in before I get my T56 Magnum transmission.

Thanks! I did not even have my transmission when I installed the tunnel. Fortunately, I live about 5 miles from Speedtech. I am there all the time so it is easy for me to take pictures and measurements when I need them and pick the brain of their lead fabricator. It is pretty much at the highest point, but if I did not have access to Speedtech, I think I would have waited to get the trans mocked up first.

[ErikLS2]

Thanks! I did not even have my transmission when I installed the tunnel. Fortunately, I live about 5 miles from Speedtech. I am there all the time so it is easy for me to take pictures and measurements when I need them and pick the brain of their lead fabricator. It is pretty much at the highest point, but if I did not have access to Speedtech, I think I would have waited to get the trans mocked up first.

I checked with them, they just said the front is based on installed transmission height. By any chance is your car in a state that you could get a measurement from the bottom of the dash to the top of the tunnel? I move at a snail's pace, so no rush. Thanks for the help!!

[Sheck44]

C'mon Greg ... I'm dying to see some colour !!

:hairpullout:

Steve

[garickman]

I checked with them, they just said the front is based on installed transmission height. By any chance is your car in a state that you could get a measurement from the bottom of the dash to the top of the tunnel? I move at a snail's pace, so no rush. Thanks for the help!!

I can do that but you will have to give me a few weeks. The interior is masked off and sealed so I can't get inside.

[garickman]

C'mon Greg ... I'm dying to see some colour !!

:hairpullout:

Steve

You and me both. Unfortunately, my enemies are time, space and weather. I am limited on the time my body and paint guy can work on it, I usually have to move a bunch of stuff out of my garage to have room to work and then I have to move it all back in at the end of the day, and here in Southern Utah we have had 10 straight days above 100 degrees and it only gets worse from here. In the next few weeks we will start to see our annual 107-112 degree temps.

Here is a few pics of what my Mondays usually consist of after working on the car all weekend. I thought the bondo dust was bad enough but damn that poly primer dust.

[Spiffav8]

Amazing that something that looks amazing out of such a mess. :lol:

Worth it though

[Cramer4918]

Little progress is still progress! It will all be worth it in the end. Hopefully weather will cooperate for you soon.

[garickman]

So the only thing left to do for this round is to block the tail panel, back of the rear spoiler and the hood. The car is fully assembled with all bolts, shims and latches in place. We should be done with the blocking in the next couple of weeks and then we will blow the car apart and spray everything with CRE. Once the CRE is layed down we will do a final blocking on all parts and get ready for paint. I am locked into white with the black hockey stripe just as original. I do like white and I figure you can't go wrong with an original factory color. Here is a sneak peak of what things are looking like.

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[Spiffav8]

This is looking SO good. Looking forward to some color!!

:captain:

[garickman]

Should start to come apart next weekend. We will spray the CRE in my driveway just like we did with the polyester. One final blocking after the CRE and it should be ready for paint.

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[214Chevy]

Super nice gaps...

[garickman]

TJ from Atomic Machine and Design sent me some pics of my completed valve cover badges.

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[jarhead]

Cool emblem :thumbsup:

I miss CNC machining, have a manual mill and lathe but can't make an emblem like that.

[Jimbo1367]

Very crisp lines. I dig it

[Spiffav8]

Those gaps are insane! :thumbsup::thumbsup:

[garickman]

Got the brake line tabs welded on the subframe finally and sent it off to be powdercoated. In case you are wondering why there are two tabs in each location, it because one tab is for the brake lines and one tab is for the hydraulic lines for the JRI Adjustable Ride Height Coil Overs.

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[camcojb]

Very nice work!

[garickman]

I also took a couple of better pictures of the valve cover badges before I sent them to the powder coater.

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[camcojb]

Very nice Greg!

[Mikael A]

Got the brake line tabs welded on the subframe finally and sent it off to be powdercoated. In case you are wondering why there are two tabs in each location, it because one tab is for the brake lines and one tab is for the hydraulic lines for the JRI Adjustable Ride Height Coil Overs.

Had no idea that they even made those,JRI just take my money please :G-Dub::G-Dub::G-Dub:

[garickman]

With the subframe away at powder coat, I figured I would get everything set up and ready for assembly.

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[Mikael A]

Very cool,my favorite part is the clean final assembly :gitrdun:

[garickman]

My plan is to paint the transmission this weekend after I debur some of the sharp casting edges. My undercarriage is raptor lined in gloss black and all of my suspension components are satin black. I was thinking either satin black or chevy orange to match the engine.

78929

[WSSix]

Orange would be interesting and contrast well against the black.

[garickman]

Orange would be interesting and contrast well against the black.

Thanks, that was my thought also. I bought orange paint today so I should have some pictures soon.

[garickman]

Got the trans painted.

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[garickman]

I like having friends with cool things. My buddy came over with his forklift and moved my engine from my house garage to my detached garage where it will meet up with the Extreme Subframe which I just got back from powder coat. It's gettin' serious now.

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[Ketzer]

78908

Interesting evolution between air ride and coilovers... I had seen the Mittler Bros version but didn't realize anyone else was doing this.

Have you been able to see it in action or ride in a vehicle with it?

Jeff-

[garickman]

I have only seen it on a short video from SEMA several years ago. There are a couple of cars being built at Speedtech Performance that are using the same set up. For a fully equipped Speedtech Extreme suspension that is pretty much dialed in, I basically spent a bunch of money to get a really cool car show stance. But you know the saying "stance is everything".

[Ketzer]

I have only seen it on a short video from SEMA several years ago. There are a couple of cars being built at Speedtech Performance that are using the same set up. For a fully equipped Speedtech Extreme suspension that is pretty much dialed in, I basically spent a bunch of money to get a really cool car show stance. But you know the saying "stance is everything".

I looked them up and certainly there was a moment of sticker shock... but honestly if you build out a full air ride system with all the bells and whistles (not ebay bags and paddle switches) and some decent double adjustable shocks, you are right there $$ wise.

I've been waiting for someone to design a front-lift only like the exotic cars have for low cars that still need to get in steep drives.

...and absolutely yes, stance is everything!


Jeff-

[garickman]

I looked them up and certainly there was a moment of sticker shock... but honestly if you build out a full air ride system with all the bells and whistles (not ebay bags and paddle switches) and some decent double adjustable shocks, you are right there $$ wise.

I've been waiting for someone to design a front-lift only like the exotic cars have for low cars that still need to get in steep drives.

...and absolutely yes, stance is everything!


Jeff-

When I spoke with a tech at JRI, he asked me if I wanted the system to be front and rear or just front, and also if I would like to raise the car or lower the car. Unlike airbags, my understanding of the hydraulic sytem is from ride height it can only go one direction. So if you have your ride height set, you can either lower it for a stance or raise it for obstacles but you can't do both.

[garickman]

Since I got all of the Speedtech components installed on the subframe, I re-organized my assembly table to move on to the next phase.

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[camcojb]

Nice parts.

[garickman]

So after some supply chain delays, my JRI parts are starting to come in. The JRI shocks were custom built by JJ from Ultimate Performance and I ordered them though Vince at Mean Streets Performance in Gilroy CA.

When I built my rear seat delete, I had no idea I was going to be running the JRI Ride Height shocks. By chance, the hydraulic pump fits perfect under the rear seat delete like it was made to go there.

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[camcojb]

Nice work! :thumbsup:

[garickman]

Working on it!

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[Sheck44]

OMG .....

:king:


Thats all I have to say

[214Chevy]

Ooooh weeee!! :wow::wow:

[garickman]

Just a quick update. We have finally been able to get some more prep work done. The next stage of blocking was done on the firewall and it has been sprayed with three coats of white CRE. I have reserved a paint booth for the first week of February. The body and all remaining parts will be sprayed with CRE in the booth, and the firewall will be painted the final white. We will bring the car back home and complete final blocking before paint. We will also install the subframe and drivetrain for the final time and turn it into a roller ready for paint and final assembly.

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[camcojb]

Turning out great Greg.

[sublime1996525]

Just read through this entire thread. Amazing build! Excited for more updates.

[garickman]

Thanks, it's in paint and body jail right now. Hopefully some updates in the next month or so.

[garickman]

Finally got some satin black on the firewall and dash.

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[camcojb]

Looks great Greg. :thumbsup:

[Cramer4918]

Looking good! Hopefully it will be out of paint jail soon.

[garickman]

Getting ready to put these two back together. Plan is to completely put the car back together as if it were the final assembly. Once back together and properly gapped, we will guide coat and then finish the final block sanding. Blow the car apart and get it ready for final paint.

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[camcojb]

Beautiful job Greg.

[garickman]

I have a paint booth lined up, but my wait is somewhere between two and six months. In the meantime we will be finishing as much as we can, starting with the brake and hydraulic lines. Also drilled the holes to run the JRI remote reservoirs in the trunk.

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[Cramer4918]

Looking good! 🤙🏼

[garickman]

Also got most of the work done in the trunk area also. It's kind of dusty and the black/grey spatter spray shows a much better contrast from the satin black roll bars in real life. I will be using roll bar mounts from Wehrs Machine to mount the JRI reservoirs in the trunk.

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[garickman]

Starting to assemble everything one more time before we blow it apart again for paint.

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[camcojb]

Looks fantastic Greg!! You've gotta be stoked!

[garickman]

I am! Got the Rick's Vaporworx tank and the fuel lines installed. Rear brake and hydraulic are done. We started on the front brake lines and hydraulic clutch.

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[colorado80439]

Those are some crazy headers to fit that Speedtech frame rail, lookin great!

[garickman]

Those are some crazy headers to fit that Speedtech frame rail, lookin great!

Thanks! Your build is looking great as well.

[syborg tt]

Car looks great but now I have a problem as I am feeling the need to redo my brake lines & fuel lines.

:trophy-1302::newbie::newbie::newbie:

[garickman]

Thanks! I got a guy for that:D

[syborg tt]

Thanks! I got a guy for that:D

Next winter I am going to have a guy come out and do mine !!

[garickman]

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[garickman]

Just sent these pieces off to the powder coater. Some brackets we fabbed up and modified. The single one holds the Holley Dominator above the A/C unite under the dash. The two larger brackets have been modified to hold the oil cooler in front of the condenser and the two smaller brackets hold the remote power steering cooler in center opening of the lower valance.

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[colorado80439]

That's some lip!! I like the step up too!

[OLDFLM]

Two batteries in the trunk?

[garickman]

Two batteries in the trunk?

Battery is actually in the rear seat delete are on the passenger side. Those batteries holders in the trunk actually hold two custom fabricated storage boxes.

[garickman]

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[Vince@Meanstreets]

Should start to come apart next weekend. We will spray the CRE in my driveway just like we did with the polyester. One final blocking after the CRE and it should be ready for paint.

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Those are the shots I was looking for!

[WSSix]

It's been a while, Greg. Any updates you care to share?