Chris's 66 Chevelle upgrade [Archive]

View Full Version : Chris's 66 Chevelle upgrade

kwhizz

12-17-2020, 04:58 AM

A little past history on this car....... I bought it back in 2005 and did the Body and Paint, suspension, brakes, and added a 406 small block and 700R4 trans....... Great car... Took it on it's first of many Power Tour Long Haul's in 2006..... My son Chris got the car in 2010 and continued the tradition of driving on the Road Tours

https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/a251/kwhizz/66%20Malibu/.highres/DSC01817.jpg (https://app.photobucket.com/u/kwhizz/a/dcd85e21-08d4-4ab7-b024-482a821dc8f4/p/dc69f1e1-5f91-4c61-bdda-4af2310e0bdf?mode=zoom)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/a251/kwhizz/66%20Malibu/.highres/DSC01812.jpg (https://app.photobucket.com/u/kwhizz/a/dcd85e21-08d4-4ab7-b024-482a821dc8f4/p/2e52d590-d34c-48b2-b95e-5b81f480841b?mode=zoom)

So...... Fast forward to 2020 and we did the 1st Barrett-Jackson Road Tour and I was driving my LSA powered 66 Chevelle (just turned 34,000 trouble free miles) and Chris had the 406 powered car........ After driving and comparing the differences I finally convinced him to swap out the Old School to Modern Technology ......and so it starts..... LOL...... Bought a LS 3 connect and cruise 4L70E set-up, Ricks Tank with a Vaporworx fuel pressure set-up, adding a HydraBoost, Dakota Digital Dash and controllers, also a Holley mid mount front drive assy to clean things up, and a Hooker LS mounting kit.......

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/a251/kwhizz/001(21).JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/kwhizz/a/dcd85e21-08d4-4ab7-b024-482a821dc8f4/p/e601ef75-5e2e-4652-b58e-f865c6fac63e)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/a251/kwhizz/001(22).JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/kwhizz/a/dcd85e21-08d4-4ab7-b024-482a821dc8f4/p/fcdea1d3-4c59-42a4-ab6f-0e2871bae602)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/a251/kwhizz/001(18).JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/kwhizz/a/dcd85e21-08d4-4ab7-b024-482a821dc8f4/p/80b8b107-8ca7-424f-9759-244e6260d5ff?mode=zoom)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/a251/kwhizz/001(77).JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/kwhizz/a/dcd85e21-08d4-4ab7-b024-482a821dc8f4/p/9f8e8dce-9246-48eb-b7ae-a1f327d92bd3?mode=zoom)

Here we go !!!!

bkswede

12-17-2020, 06:37 AM

That’s awesome - look forward to following along as you upgrade. You’re making some really nice improvements which will make the car so much more reliable and easier to drive... that said, looks like the 406 did pretty well for itself, too, with all the tours you and your son have taken with it.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Blackhawk

12-17-2020, 06:06 PM

Wow 34k miles and that many PT long hauls is really cool to see, looking forward to how this one comes along.

64G-lark

12-17-2020, 06:41 PM

Looking forward to following the build.

syborg tt

12-17-2020, 06:54 PM

Subscribed.

Looking forward to this build.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

kwhizz

12-18-2020, 04:34 AM

Got the Holley 302-3 oil pan installed...... also the Holley mid mount front drive assy.....the Holley / Hooker forward bias engine mounts arrived and were installed....

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/a251/kwhizz/001(54).JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/kwhizz/a/dcd85e21-08d4-4ab7-b024-482a821dc8f4/p/f713b3d8-7460-4d8c-9d77-316d912676b5?mode=zoom)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/a251/kwhizz/001(30).JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/kwhizz/a/dcd85e21-08d4-4ab7-b024-482a821dc8f4/p/da7756f2-670c-4a01-bd8e-7d0b72a61e3f?mode=zoom)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/a251/kwhizz/001(44).JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/kwhizz/a/dcd85e21-08d4-4ab7-b024-482a821dc8f4/p/3b026adf-aeb4-426a-8b4e-618e11bfb32d?mode=zoom)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/a251/kwhizz/001(91).JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/kwhizz/a/dcd85e21-08d4-4ab7-b024-482a821dc8f4/p/2d947df2-8932-4f46-bb54-1d0ed2456c87?mode=zoom)

kwhizz

12-18-2020, 04:41 AM

Also the Rick's Tank and Carls Vaporworx PWM fuel pressure control system are here.......

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/a251/kwhizz/001(100).JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/kwhizz/a/dcd85e21-08d4-4ab7-b024-482a821dc8f4/p/c397c22f-16a4-41fb-8728-fe5f942219ef?mode=zoom)

kwhizz

12-18-2020, 04:55 AM

Included in the Holley / Hooker install kit is the transmission crossmember...... Boy.....30 minutes and it was done....what a treat to get something that actually fits as it should..... there are two mounting plates that bolt right into the existing frame holes ..... bolt it in and drill two hole thru the side frame, bolt it in and you are done......And the side mounts have all the various mounting holes designed in to accommodate all transmission variations ......

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/a251/kwhizz/001(103).JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/kwhizz/a/dcd85e21-08d4-4ab7-b024-482a821dc8f4/p/71ab855c-3198-4578-b65f-8baa307580c3?mode=zoom)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/a251/kwhizz/001(104).JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/kwhizz/a/dcd85e21-08d4-4ab7-b024-482a821dc8f4/p/4c575af4-31ab-422a-9186-6bc2795076ce?mode=zoom)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/a251/kwhizz/001(102).JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/kwhizz/a/dcd85e21-08d4-4ab7-b024-482a821dc8f4/p/df35b028-c58f-4c23-a5a2-f8934afe0a7d?mode=zoom)

waynieZ

12-19-2020, 12:19 PM

Nice setup. Subscribed.

warhawkchevelle

12-19-2020, 12:23 PM

Very cool! Looking forward to see the progress!

kwhizz

12-19-2020, 03:19 PM

Got the Rick's tank plumbed and ready to install with the Vaporworx sensor and wiring......Simple day without any issues.....

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/a251/kwhizz/001(108).JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/kwhizz/a/dcd85e21-08d4-4ab7-b024-482a821dc8f4/p/e7e01535-bf38-4aeb-b5bd-32717fcdb809)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/a251/kwhizz/001(109).JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/kwhizz/a/dcd85e21-08d4-4ab7-b024-482a821dc8f4/p/8578c4b3-d698-422f-b5fe-b3b8ab506ccd)

waynieZ

12-19-2020, 08:20 PM

You got to love easy when it comes to new parts fitting right.

kwhizz

12-23-2020, 05:17 AM

I was waiting to install the engine assy until I got the proper transmission cooling line fittings and lines installed as there isn't what you would say "access" to that area once everything is installed.......Finally got everything ready for install after ordering the wrong fittings twice (lot's of confusion in the ordering process with the threads on the fittings).... After getting the trans lines in I forgot to take a couple of pictures of what I did......Darn !!!........ Getting these lines installed is one of the bigger problem area's of LS installs......
So....Using the Holley Engine Trans install kit I decided to give it a try and see if there were any issues...... Again, the Holley kit is engineered perfectly as the engine and trans slid in and bolted right up....... Wow.... Great to buy something that actually does what it's supposed to do....... Another one of my concerns was in my choice to buy the Holley Mid-Mount front drive assy..... I was told there would be a clearance issue with the power steering pump reservoir and the steering box...... We are installing a Hydra Boost so I decided to gamble and buy the unit anyway....... That was the first thing I looked at after installing the engine..... Plenty of room......the gamble paid off ........ I also bought some shorty headers that were supposed to fit..... LOL.... Just ordered the Hooker long tubes headers designed by Holley so I know the will fit when they get here......... Again... I realize I can't afford "Cheap" stuff !!!!...... LOL.... Now to get the wiring sorted out and hidden.....

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/a251/kwhizz/001(118).JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/kwhizz/a/dcd85e21-08d4-4ab7-b024-482a821dc8f4/p/766e3577-fc6f-4e8e-8e1a-babc7cef16af)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/a251/kwhizz/001(112).JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/kwhizz/a/dcd85e21-08d4-4ab7-b024-482a821dc8f4/p/34511b7a-cb88-4cca-814d-2e4c8f8eb73e)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/a251/kwhizz/001(113).JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/kwhizz/a/dcd85e21-08d4-4ab7-b024-482a821dc8f4/p/d9718c77-6c3c-4495-b5db-8068d6e80a83)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/a251/kwhizz/(edited)_001(121).JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/kwhizz/a/dcd85e21-08d4-4ab7-b024-482a821dc8f4/p/d3cea73d-7842-4255-9fb4-a6f78cee0c47)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/a251/kwhizz/001(120).JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/kwhizz/a/dcd85e21-08d4-4ab7-b024-482a821dc8f4/p/44b6d7c9-86a7-4022-a4d0-179e1c1c9118)

waynieZ

12-23-2020, 11:12 AM

It looks good Ken, I wish Holley had these kits when I started my car.

camcojb

12-23-2020, 11:36 AM

Love the Holley stuff. You're right, it's nice to get aftermarket parts that fit right out of the box instead of having to be modded. :thankyou:

kwhizz

12-24-2020, 05:04 AM

In addition to the new Hooker headers I also ordered the complete Hooker exhaust system engineered for this install..... Here's a pic of the Engine with the wires moved so you can actually see it...... LOL....... Chris also bought a set of Holley valve covers which hide the coils and wiring.......Gonna wait till I get the headers installed before going any further on the engine so I don't get ahead of myself....

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/a251/kwhizz/001(122).JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/kwhizz/a/dcd85e21-08d4-4ab7-b024-482a821dc8f4/p/4d275df6-ca09-4acb-9b0c-2c7f5c745a30)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/a251/kwhizz/001(124).JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/kwhizz/a/dcd85e21-08d4-4ab7-b024-482a821dc8f4/p/7bbfc215-46ea-45df-bc31-7efc67cc875d)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/a251/kwhizz/001(123).JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/kwhizz/a/dcd85e21-08d4-4ab7-b024-482a821dc8f4/p/adb1485c-3048-4b1d-8783-e72eb13f0832)

1badsc

12-24-2020, 09:01 AM

moving right along looks great

kwhizz

12-24-2020, 02:30 PM

Got the radiator and fans installed today....... plenty of clearance with the front of the Holley Accy drive set-up........ Also got the Holley 2 pc valve covers installed which hide the coils and wiring....... Moving forward........

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/a251/kwhizz/(edited)_001(133).JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/kwhizz/a/dcd85e21-08d4-4ab7-b024-482a821dc8f4/p/e6213325-a1a7-4dd7-9282-76b823e5d8ac)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/a251/kwhizz/(edited)_001(134).JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/kwhizz/a/dcd85e21-08d4-4ab7-b024-482a821dc8f4/p/36466fbe-87d9-4399-9332-feef1877d777)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/a251/kwhizz/001(125).JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/kwhizz/a/dcd85e21-08d4-4ab7-b024-482a821dc8f4/p/cd274ae1-cad5-49a7-ab5b-3467197f3d19)

clill

12-24-2020, 06:23 PM

Can't you just use the brake booster that is already there ?

kwhizz

12-25-2020, 04:27 AM

Can't you just use the brake booster that is already there ?

Yes..... But after installing a Hydra-Boost system on the Impala.... I'm sold on that style of a system for the future....... Merry Christmas to all....

NOVA

12-25-2020, 10:00 AM

Yes..... But after installing a Hydra-Boost system on the Impala.... I'm sold on that style of a system for the future....... Merry Christmas to all....

Looking good!

Curious,with all the LS/LT conversions these days, are carbed engines and other parts dinosaurs now ? Where do the take out motors, radiators,transmissions and good parts in general go,are people able to sell off stuff or does it basically go to the scrap yard ?

keep up the good work!

kwhizz

12-25-2020, 10:13 AM

We are recycling the Chevelle drivetrain into Chris's 1970 C10.....

waynieZ

12-25-2020, 11:50 AM

Merry Christmas to you and your family Ken

kwhizz

12-29-2020, 07:20 AM

A little update....... I have the fuel lines fabricated and installed.....cross that off the list....Also got the wires installed from the fuel level sensor in the Rick's tank to the dash for the Dakota Digital gauges..... Got lucky with the driveshaft as I had one in the garage that was fabricated for the Blue Chevelle that I couldn't use back then and it fit perfectly....
So........... So before the headers get installed and I decided to get the Dakota Digital shift position indicator installed while I had the extra room along with the Lokar Cable shift assy that will be hooked up to the column shifter.....Neat assy and the neutral safety switch function is controlled thru the Dakota Digital indicator and a Relay........ Great set-up.......
Now..... The one issue that came up was with the Holley valve covers..... They are two piece construction with the upper half just being cosmetic coil covers to clean up the LS look...... They are designed to work with Gen1 and Gen5 coils so the coil portion that the spark plug wire goes on will pass thru the existing clearance hole in the covers....... the coils that come with the GM connect and cruise LS 3 engines are different.......So, I wasn't about to buy new coils so I had to modify the lid openings to clear......... Not a big deal as the look is worth the extra effort and the modifications can't be seen when the covers are installed......Just need more parts to show up now .......

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/a251/kwhizz/001(149).JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/kwhizz/a/dcd85e21-08d4-4ab7-b024-482a821dc8f4/p/121390d7-254d-49f3-b427-1de00f1dc7db)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/a251/kwhizz/001(147).JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/kwhizz/a/dcd85e21-08d4-4ab7-b024-482a821dc8f4/p/034c6e53-2bfb-47b0-bfc1-d0e29b863283)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/a251/kwhizz/001(145).JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/kwhizz/a/dcd85e21-08d4-4ab7-b024-482a821dc8f4/p/fbc69ae6-0a99-4efb-adaf-5be5ead465ab)

NOVA

12-29-2020, 10:22 AM

We are recycling the Chevelle drivetrain into Chris's 1970 C10.....

That's cool win,win.... looking good :thumbsup:

Spiffav8

12-29-2020, 12:01 PM

Nice upgrade Ken. Looks to be an easy swap... way to much luck. :lol:

kwhizz

12-29-2020, 04:03 PM

Ordered the stainless full length headers and complete exhaust system from Holley/Hooker and everything arrived today........Read the instructions and it said the headers should be installed from the bottom....... Since I already had the car on jackstands ... Well you know the story......Since I am a graduate of the header installation school I really wasn't looking forward to this experience.....LOL.......Wow !!!!...... 5 minutes a side and everything was installed........Slipped right up and in position.......Crazy......Got the valve/coil covers installed along with the spark plug wires........ these headers are the ultimate design......Spark plugs .... No clearance issues at all......Amazing....... I can't say enough about the thoughtful design for this custom installation....

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/a251/kwhizz/001(163).JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/kwhizz/a/dcd85e21-08d4-4ab7-b024-482a821dc8f4/p/6a2d0718-e6e9-4ed4-b6e7-6e6d31187cc0)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/a251/kwhizz/001(161).JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/kwhizz/a/dcd85e21-08d4-4ab7-b024-482a821dc8f4/p/53276345-d102-4702-bdcd-6625e4d27501)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/a251/kwhizz/001(157).JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/kwhizz/a/dcd85e21-08d4-4ab7-b024-482a821dc8f4/p/8b2bced7-ab72-4db7-9505-b3e21c532328)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/a251/kwhizz/001(153).JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/kwhizz/a/dcd85e21-08d4-4ab7-b024-482a821dc8f4/p/68d45af9-f8fc-4660-9d65-698defc9e85f)

syborg tt

12-29-2020, 04:51 PM

Looks awesome

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

waynieZ

12-30-2020, 10:51 AM

Covers look nice on there. Nice to hear the headers cooperated and went in without a fight.

kwhizz

01-02-2021, 01:19 AM

Got the transmission cooling lines routed and installed, also the O2 sensors installed and wired.... and another improvement we wanted to do was install a cable shifter from the column to the trans..... when originally built I put a Lokar rod assy in..... but the problem there was that when accelerating sometimes with the engine movement it would downshift the trans..... I bought the Lokar cable column kit....... but it's needs modifications to actually work with the 4L70 trans..... the cable mount bracket on the trans hits the bump out on the trans pan but you just need to cut about 2" of the bracket away ..... no problem...... The column mount as designed just won't work.... so I fabricated a a little pivot mount bracket to suit and welded it in position on the frame.....Simple but a PIA to remove the inner fender panel to have access to get at it for welding...... All done now and it works perfectly.....

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/a251/kwhizz/001(179).JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/kwhizz/a/dcd85e21-08d4-4ab7-b024-482a821dc8f4/p/d5be385c-8ad1-468b-9c31-14862282c670)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/a251/kwhizz/001(178).JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/kwhizz/a/dcd85e21-08d4-4ab7-b024-482a821dc8f4/p/9519d840-aa48-4f5d-a683-5a14c9513332)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/a251/kwhizz/001(169).JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/kwhizz/a/dcd85e21-08d4-4ab7-b024-482a821dc8f4/p/4083c56d-93b0-477c-8122-434fa038d338)

sru1436

01-02-2021, 09:30 AM

I’m really digging the engine swap. I have a 66 Malibu myself and I’m leaning towards the LS3 swap also.

Jimbo1367

01-03-2021, 04:36 PM

kwhizz

01-03-2021, 05:06 PM

Ken,
Great progress. Do you foresee any problems with the trans shift linkage at the frame mount(where u welded the mount)? The angle looks like I might cause a problem after some prolonged use. That is assuming that it isn’t a illusion.

Thanks,
Jim

I positioned the cable as it feeds into the bracket better after the picture was taken......... There is also a black wire loom for the Dakota Digital shift position indicator in the same pic that blends in with the shift cable and it can make it seem the cable is at an angle which it isn't....... Good eyes..... After looking at the top view picture again you can't see the shift cable..... Just the Black Dakota Digital wire....Here's a better pic

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/a251/kwhizz/001(180).JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/kwhizz/a/dcd85e21-08d4-4ab7-b024-482a821dc8f4/p/d5d7ab39-3921-4889-8621-87000afe4a7a)

jarhead

01-03-2021, 07:47 PM

Cool build Ken and Chris! Subscribed

waynieZ

01-03-2021, 08:50 PM

kwhizz

01-04-2021, 04:45 AM

Hi Ken, how was it adjusting the Dakota Digital shift indicator piece that goes on the trans? I wanted to get in the trans pan but mine is already on there, do you think I drop the pan and not screw up the adjustment? I’ts a 4l85.

You just need to calibrate it with the Dakota Module after everything is finalized by running it thru the gears ....... Too simple

Jimbo1367

01-05-2021, 10:22 AM

I really like how the Hooker primaries are routed. On their 2nd Gen F-body, they look awful.

kwhizz

01-08-2021, 04:34 AM

Got the Modules mounted and out of the way...... The mountain of wires are slowly disappearing......

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/a251/kwhizz/001(200).JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/kwhizz/a/dcd85e21-08d4-4ab7-b024-482a821dc8f4/p/fb93d9da-0963-49a2-abf9-170442580e1f)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/a251/kwhizz/001(201).JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/kwhizz/a/dcd85e21-08d4-4ab7-b024-482a821dc8f4/p/f99675ff-6b71-4844-937c-77a6e3b3390f)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/a251/kwhizz/001(199).JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/kwhizz/a/dcd85e21-08d4-4ab7-b024-482a821dc8f4/p/237257bd-2172-482b-8e23-cb8219aa3417)

dhutton

01-08-2021, 05:36 AM

Hi Ken. What is this box connected to the heater hoses? A bypass? Thanks.

Don

kwhizz

01-08-2021, 03:05 PM

Hi Ken. What is this box connected to the heater hoses? A bypass? Thanks.

Don

The stock GM setup has the coolant flow continually running thru the heater core with the return line providing flow over the backside of the thermostat so it knows what the temp of the engine is..... with the Vintage air A/C in the car and the heater is off it shuts off the flow and the coolant isn't allowed to flow back across the heat sensing side of the thermostat ....... The block is a by-pass that allows that function to continue as per factory design........it still works without the block installed but it is thru convection rather than coolant flow as factory

dhutton

01-08-2021, 07:39 PM

Found it if anyone else is interested.

https://www.lojkits.com/products/ls-swap-heater-bypass-block

Don

RKROEGER

01-09-2021, 05:21 AM

Ken, we have an Impala with factory A/C and a LS3 swap. Would we benefit from the hose bypass?
Thanks

kwhizz

01-09-2021, 12:07 PM

Ken, we have an Impala with factory A/C and a LS3 swap. Would we benefit from the hose bypass?
Thanks

Don't think it's a necessity but if GM designed the system that way I feel they had a good reason to do it......

https://www.lojkits.com/products/ls-swap-heater-bypass-block

Ken

kwhizz

01-15-2021, 08:43 PM

Been a while since a update...... Got everything hooked up and wired in the engine compartment....... Next we have to pull the Dash out of the car for the Dakota Digital Gage conversion and adding the modules.....Still waiting for the Hydra-Boost system to arrive for completion........ The wiring in the Engine compartment has mostly been cleaned up enough to be presentable without cutting up the GM harness.......Here are some new pictures......
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/a251/kwhizz/(edited)_001(223).JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/kwhizz/a/dcd85e21-08d4-4ab7-b024-482a821dc8f4/p/dea7352b-2d19-4a8e-bddd-948d81806b5b)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/a251/kwhizz/(edited)_001(221).JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/kwhizz/a/dcd85e21-08d4-4ab7-b024-482a821dc8f4/p/b406b8ed-3214-419a-bb20-2b82b3a0697d)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/a251/kwhizz/001(226).JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/kwhizz/a/dcd85e21-08d4-4ab7-b024-482a821dc8f4/p/f9ef1fd8-2594-4298-bde3-904169f95018)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/a251/kwhizz/001(224).JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/kwhizz/a/dcd85e21-08d4-4ab7-b024-482a821dc8f4/p/f0f03def-1d76-445e-9846-0034776d75fe)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/a251/kwhizz/001(118).JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/kwhizz/a/dcd85e21-08d4-4ab7-b024-482a821dc8f4/p/766e3577-fc6f-4e8e-8e1a-babc7cef16af)

andrewb70

01-16-2021, 11:26 AM

Looks like you will be ready to fire it up soon!

Andrew

kwhizz

01-16-2021, 12:20 PM

Looks like you will be ready to fire it up soon!

Andrew

Yep....... Just need the Hydra-Boost to get the Power Steering pump connected

kwhizz

01-17-2021, 09:06 AM

The part I have been putting off is now here...... Time to get this mess cleaned up.... The good thing is with the Dakota Digital stuff going in 75% of the wires you see will be non functional........

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/a251/kwhizz/001(228).JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/kwhizz/a/dcd85e21-08d4-4ab7-b024-482a821dc8f4/p/5bf8fd3d-a03a-42ed-8159-89b51697ce77)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/a251/kwhizz/001(227).JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/kwhizz/a/dcd85e21-08d4-4ab7-b024-482a821dc8f4/p/c06d067a-d2cc-4434-8f5e-72035a42aaaf)

camcojb

01-17-2021, 11:20 AM

Ahhh the old spaghetti project lol. Been there, done that. :confused18:

kwhizz

01-17-2021, 12:20 PM

Ahhh the old spaghetti project lol. Been there, done that. :confused18:

LOL....... We have all been there .......

Chevy Kid

01-17-2021, 10:17 PM

Ken, what is the brand of radiator you use. I really like it, thx

Tim

kwhizz

01-19-2021, 04:57 AM

LOL..... Bought it 15 years ago and it was not one of the name brands ..... Don't remember but they are no longer in business..... Yes.... Very high Quality and construction.....

Ken

kwhizz

01-23-2021, 09:27 AM

Update....... Pretty much finished except for the Hydra-Boost system which hopefully will be here next week......... Got the wiring under the dash under control.... LOL.... The steering column cable shifter is adjusted and works perfectly..... Gas Pedal installed and hooked up....Under hood wiring all cleaned up.....One of the big surprises is the new Dakota digital features now available is the programming of the fan controller module using a Blue Tooth app.......So easy and simple..... one of the past concerns with these modules is having access to them for changing the settings....... Not required anymore.... Bury it in the dash with no concerns for access...... Great Job Dakota !!!!!!Got the dash installed and the new gauges .....Too Simple.....the Neutral Safety switch is now controlled by the Dakota gear position indicator....... Hit the key and everything works as it should..... Didn't want to start the engine yet as the power steering pump is not hooked up yet and don't want to ruin it......

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/a251/kwhizz/001(242).JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/kwhizz/a/dcd85e21-08d4-4ab7-b024-482a821dc8f4/p/08471255-5354-40f5-8b8e-f3590ae420b2)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/a251/kwhizz/001(241).JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/kwhizz/a/dcd85e21-08d4-4ab7-b024-482a821dc8f4/p/a61f3507-ed21-456e-987b-6b5178d1bc5c)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/a251/kwhizz/001(238).JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/kwhizz/a/dcd85e21-08d4-4ab7-b024-482a821dc8f4/p/27746c8d-e719-449a-842e-5c4d9cbad5c6)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/a251/kwhizz/001(3).PNG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/kwhizz/a/dcd85e21-08d4-4ab7-b024-482a821dc8f4/p/6cb9d8c9-43e7-4b56-be6e-124d4a2e95ac)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/a251/kwhizz/001(2).PNG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/kwhizz/a/dcd85e21-08d4-4ab7-b024-482a821dc8f4/p/37d05938-a05a-4ba5-a678-61fdc8b92e35)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/a251/kwhizz/001(1).PNG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/kwhizz/a/dcd85e21-08d4-4ab7-b024-482a821dc8f4/p/8eb32616-bac1-4ea8-806d-1a66fbd551ea)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/a251/kwhizz/001.PNG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/kwhizz/a/dcd85e21-08d4-4ab7-b024-482a821dc8f4/p/d9fef713-a081-4b24-9055-e644d2d8f12f)

kwhizz

01-23-2021, 04:03 PM

Done..... Just waiting for the Hydra-Boost now !!!!

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/a251/kwhizz/001(248).JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/kwhizz/a/dcd85e21-08d4-4ab7-b024-482a821dc8f4/p/0982da9f-3098-4cbb-a59a-12426dc973b3)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/a251/kwhizz/001(247).JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/kwhizz/a/dcd85e21-08d4-4ab7-b024-482a821dc8f4/p/ec65abb7-6e30-4e98-b146-45507f96da46)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/a251/kwhizz/001(246).JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/kwhizz/a/dcd85e21-08d4-4ab7-b024-482a821dc8f4/p/4c7c7047-f823-4bb2-9224-3783096fe307)

kwhizz

01-26-2021, 05:15 AM

Still waiting for the Hydra-Boost to show up.......... In the mean time I noticed I wasn't getting any fuel pressure to the rails and the engine wouldn't start...... Humm!!!......I hot wired the power feed on the Vaporworx controller and Bingo had fuel pressure..... Hummm !!!! After checking the only thing it could be was a bad controller or the wiring on the Delfi plug assy........ Ended up that when I cut the harness to suit and pinned the wires in the plug.... I had all the wires in the right position but didn't notice that whan I plugged it together I had to rotate the plug 180 degrees to get the key feature on the plug to align........ Luckily Donnie at Frame-Up explained how to unpin the plug and get the wires in back to the correct position....... Duhh!!!........ Hit the key and the engine started immediately...... Don't want to run it until the power steering pump has fluid in it so I only ran it for a few seconds....... Video to follow when the Hydra boost shows up.....

Ken

dhutton

01-26-2021, 07:13 AM

Are you waiting for a Hydratech hydra boost system?

Don

kwhizz

01-26-2021, 09:38 AM

Are you waiting for a Hydratech hydra boost system?

Don

Yes........ Ordered on 10/30....

dontlifttoshift

01-26-2021, 11:00 AM

10/20 ;)

And was told 60 days at time of order. Story was the billet firewall plates were hung up at the machine shop where there was a Covid related shutdown.

waynieZ

01-26-2021, 11:15 AM

At least it it's the best kind of problem, A fixed one! Glad it was and easy fix.

kwhizz

01-27-2021, 04:45 AM

10/20 ;)

And was told 60 days at time of order. Story was the billet firewall plates were hung up at the machine shop where there was a Covid related shutdown.

Worth the wait........

kwhizz

01-28-2021, 05:57 AM

Chris mentioned that there was wheel bearing noise coming from the front end during the Road-Tour last fall..... Had some time so I figured I would take a look at replacing them....... Then I realized that when I built the car 15 years ago I put a stock GM front disc assy on the car..... Hummm!!!.... As long as we are updating everything we might as well give the Hydra-Boost system something to work with...... LOL....

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/a251/kwhizz/001(252).JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/kwhizz/a/dcd85e21-08d4-4ab7-b024-482a821dc8f4/p/38bc0487-7bd3-44a9-91c6-e58e0d2eeff2)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/a251/kwhizz/001(250).JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/kwhizz/a/dcd85e21-08d4-4ab7-b024-482a821dc8f4/p/90b2eba0-4422-44b1-b07b-98a23b5bd2dd)

kwhizz

02-04-2021, 04:55 AM

New brakes installed....... Still waiting for the Hydra-Boost..... But now I have another issue that I have never experienced before......... The transmission has an issue, when starting the car and putting it in gear the trans has no function at all....... adding more fluid doesn't do anything...... The fluid level on the dipstick is above the full line but after starting and running thru the gears the level stays high and never goes down..... It seems the pump isn't working ........ no tire rotation at all..... Converter was filled with oil per spec before installing and keyed into the trans pump..... Humm...... Time to pull it out and take it to a trans expert to figure it out........

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/a251/kwhizz/001(257).JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/kwhizz/a/dcd85e21-08d4-4ab7-b024-482a821dc8f4/p/5704d9a9-312b-4c4e-80ad-4545ff20ba9b)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/a251/kwhizz/001(256).JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/kwhizz/a/dcd85e21-08d4-4ab7-b024-482a821dc8f4/p/2403b86b-498a-4fc1-b39b-1b8bc6238475)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/a251/kwhizz/001(255).JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/kwhizz/a/dcd85e21-08d4-4ab7-b024-482a821dc8f4/p/28772bcf-eafd-4055-8b6d-941563348635)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/a251/kwhizz/001(254).JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/kwhizz/a/dcd85e21-08d4-4ab7-b024-482a821dc8f4/p/4a904b73-e865-409c-b02d-3b8f513b5b74)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/a251/kwhizz/001(253).JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/kwhizz/a/dcd85e21-08d4-4ab7-b024-482a821dc8f4/p/0455f279-e607-4ee6-a058-7fb27d489488)

gmc

02-04-2021, 09:52 AM

The car looks great. Hopefully the transmission is a simple fix. I think your rotors may be installed backwards. Usually the arrows on the wilwoods are supposed to point forward.

kwhizz

02-04-2021, 10:33 AM

The car looks great. Hopefully the transmission is a simple fix. I think your rotors may be installed backwards. Usually the arrows on the wilwoods are supposed to point forward.

Yep....... Corrected..... Had a Senior Moment !!!!

camcojb

02-04-2021, 11:13 AM

kwhizz

02-05-2021, 08:38 AM

Sure sounds like the converter isn't all the way into the pump. I know you know this already. Or the shifter pawl came disconnected inside the trans, but I don't think you had the pan off and any of that linkage touched.
My first thoughts also.... But, if the converter isn't all the way in and engaged with the pump it would cause interference with the flexplate and not let the trans to bolt in contact with the block........ I'm thoroughly confused !!!!!!

Thanks for your input.....

Ken

camcojb

02-05-2021, 01:28 PM

My first thoughts also.... But, if the converter isn't all the way in and engaged with the pump it would cause interference with the flexplate and not let the trans to bolt in contact with the block........ I'm thoroughly confused !!!!!!

Thanks for your input.....

Ken

I had one that wasn't all the way in but still barely cleared the flexplate and the trans was flat to the block.

kwhizz

02-05-2021, 01:49 PM

I had one that wasn't all the way in but still barely cleared the flexplate and the trans was flat to the block.

I'm pulling the trans out this weekend and now I am second guessing myself....Darn..... This car stuff is hard !!!!

kwhizz

02-07-2021, 09:40 AM

Trans update....... Had to take the exhaust system down.....and pull the trans out....... Everything looks fine but the trans pump absolutely had "0" function...... the trans fluid would just stay at the level as added while running the car without any trans function.....The Connect and Cruise systems come with a warranty so I called the Performance Tech center in the Detroit area and spoke to a Tech..... I explained everything that was happening and my assemble procedure....... I explained the adding of fluid to the converter prior to assy..... The clearance 3/16" between the converter and flex plate prior to bolting it together.......then the filling and no results experience....... He asked if I had a Chevrolet dealer in the area..... Said yes.... Told me to go there and talk to one of the service writers to get the car in....... he then explained that since I didn't buy the assy from them they might not agree to look into the issues..... Then he explained that if they did agree to get it in and found out it was something I did wrong I would be billed at Shop rate for everything done at the dealership....... Easier to pull the trans out and take it to a local trans shop for them to look at...... So.... That's where we are at now........ Still waiting on the Hydra-Boost also.....Here I thought I was a couple of hours from completion..... LOL

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/a251/kwhizz/(edited)_001(264).JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/kwhizz/a/dcd85e21-08d4-4ab7-b024-482a821dc8f4/p/dfa841fc-e0c4-4f14-9056-bddc6075a28f)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/a251/kwhizz/(edited)_001(263).JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/kwhizz/a/dcd85e21-08d4-4ab7-b024-482a821dc8f4/p/46ad0ca4-8202-44b3-81ea-813af681d3b7)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/a251/kwhizz/001(266).JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/kwhizz/a/dcd85e21-08d4-4ab7-b024-482a821dc8f4/p/70a5a126-b06c-41a8-8838-7b5160bf0d32)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/a251/kwhizz/001(265).JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/kwhizz/a/dcd85e21-08d4-4ab7-b024-482a821dc8f4/p/4bccb745-258e-4d76-888b-fbb1f0d96143)

andrewb70

02-07-2021, 10:22 AM

So what's the point of a warranty if it's useless?

Andrew

ScotI

02-08-2021, 07:04 AM

So what's the point of a warranty if it's useless?

Andrew

x2.

It's great for the sales pitch that there is 'product security' but that reply from GM has me thinking not so much.

dhutton

02-08-2021, 07:08 AM

Most GM dealership service departments won’t touch a GMPP warranty repair. Too many variables.

Don

kwhizz

02-09-2021, 09:25 AM

So...… I Are Smart...…. Found the problem...…. I thought I knew everything as I have done this many times in the past...….. Let's just say I ruined the converter and the trans pump and leave it at that...…. It's in the hands of Experts now being fixed...… Ends up I didn't have the pump engaged properly with the converter......Darn this car stuff is hard and $$$$$$$

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/a251/kwhizz/001(268).JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/kwhizz/a/dcd85e21-08d4-4ab7-b024-482a821dc8f4/p/3128799f-642e-4feb-a8d2-1fd6e9b14cf6)

camcojb

02-09-2021, 10:33 AM

So...… I Are Smart...…. Found the problem...…. I thought I knew everything as I have done this many times in the past...….. Let's just say I ruined the converter and the trans pump and leave it at that...…. It's in the hands of Experts now being fixed...… Ends up I didn't have the pump engaged properly with the converter......Darn this car stuff is hard and $$$$$$$

Sorry Ken. Fortunately you have your answer and it'll be fixed. :thumbsup:

kwhizz

02-09-2021, 03:44 PM

Sorry Ken. Fortunately you have your answer and it'll be fixed. :thumbsup:

Yepper$$$$!!!!!!! ....... I would have Bet money I was no the cause....... Lesson Learned...

waynieZ

02-09-2021, 04:29 PM

Sorry to hear this, but it will be fixed.

Jimbo1367

02-10-2021, 08:02 AM

Just be glad you didnt take it the dealer for something you can easily do.

kwhizz

02-13-2021, 04:41 AM

Got the transmission back and and a "Lesson" well learned......100% my fault because I didn't have the converter positioned correctly..... How can that be, I have done this many times before...... Seems that with the converter not in correctly and mating the trans to the engine while tightening the bell housing bolts it pushed the converter into the trans and broke the parts inside the pump..... I used a electric ratchet and didn't feel the resistance of the bolts telling me "Hey Dummy" stop you have a problem here..... After tightening the bolts and putting the Converter to Flexplate bolts in everything seemed normal....... Duhhh !!!....... So.... If you think you know everything like I did,,,,, Double check as it was an expensive fix...... and Embarrassing !!!!!

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/a251/kwhizz/001(269).JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/kwhizz/a/dcd85e21-08d4-4ab7-b024-482a821dc8f4/p/c2a87206-fbf3-49b6-9a3d-ece2404ebcf5)

69hugger

02-13-2021, 11:53 AM

Don’t beat yourself up too badly. I wish I had all the money back I’ve had to spend on stupid or careless mistakes I’ve made over the years. We all do it... car guys, plumbers, fishermen (I have a friend that lost his boat on the highway because he didn’t get the hitch completely latched). The only one of us that hasn’t done something like this is a liar!
Except pilots... they have to be more careful! :)

bkswede

02-13-2021, 12:14 PM

Glad to hear that it’s fixed and ready to go - sh*t happens, as they say, and it happens to all of us!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

1965_SS

02-17-2021, 01:47 PM

kwhizz

02-18-2021, 04:30 AM

Hey Ken,

Another great Chevelle build!:thumbsup: Looks great. Sorry you had the converter problem, that sucks.

I'm running the Vaporworx tank like that. Is that a pressure sensor or something coming off that fuel line? What's that hook up to? I don't have that.

Thanks

If you are talking about where it goes into the fuel rail that is a inline Filter that I had and decided to put it on.......

1965_SS

02-18-2021, 05:15 AM

If you are talking about where it goes into the fuel rail that is a inline Filter that I had and decided to put it on.......

I was talking about the brass fitting w/wire that tees into your fuel line right off your fuel pump. I'm guessing that is a fuel pressure sensor for something?

dontlifttoshift

02-18-2021, 06:51 AM

This?

https://www.lateral-g.net/forums/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fa251%2Fkwhizz%2F001%28108%29.JPG%3Fwi dth%3D1920%26amp%3Bheight%3D1080%26amp%3Bfit%3Dbou nds

That is a pressure sensor for the Vaporworx fuel pump controller. If you don't have a controller, you don't need the sensor.

If you do have a controller, it won't work with out the sensor.

1965_SS

02-18-2021, 08:00 AM

Yes :thumbsup:
Thanks for the info. I do not have the controller.

This?

https://www.lateral-g.net/forums/cache.php?img=https%3A%2F%2Fhosting.photobucket.co m%2Fimages%2Fa251%2Fkwhizz%2F001%28108%29.JPG%3Fwi dth%3D1920%26amp%3Bheight%3D1080%26amp%3Bfit%3Dbou nds

That is a pressure sensor for the Vaporworx fuel pump controller. If you don't have a controller, you don't need the sensor.

If you do have a controller, it won't work with out the sensor.

dhutton

02-18-2021, 07:27 PM

Saw this on the other forum.

https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/136148-Hydratech?p=1351948#post1351948

Don

kwhizz

02-20-2021, 05:19 AM

Still waiting......Ordered on 10/20

kwhizz

02-21-2021, 06:05 AM

ScotI

02-22-2021, 07:54 AM

Update....... Trans back in and working correctly .......LOL..... Exhaust system back on .....everything hooked up and working except for the HydraBoost which still hasn't showed up yet...... Been waiting 4 months..... Hummm !!!!.....Probably 4-5 hours away from being finished once the HydraBoost shows up......

At this point can you contest the original HB purchase CC charge? If so, maybe that's the way to go & purchase a HydraBoost set-up thru a different source.

ADY

02-22-2021, 12:39 PM

Agreed, still close to being able to dispute the charge and go with another... SummitRacing has several in stock (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/clp-6474hbkbsb), personally have this hydro boost (https://******-hydraulics.business.site/) that came with my '68 Camaro and haven't had any issues.
At this point can you contest the original HB purchase CC charge? If so, maybe that's the way to go & purchase a HydraBoost set-up thru a different source.

dontlifttoshift

02-22-2021, 02:24 PM

As the guy that ordered this unit for Kwhizz, I assure you that no one is more pissed about this than me. Really, I promise.

For some perspective, in the past year I waited 4 months for a set of brakes from StopTech, over 3 months for a Dakota Digital order, nearly 3 months for a set of wheels from Billet Specialties and as far as I know none of those companies are going out of business.......nor is anyone ready to burn them at the stake. Getting supplies for and from anyone for anything has been a mess. No company can deliver something they don't have.

To help the reader understand, I am not defending HydraTech. Their lead time has _always_ sucked. Never once have I called there and talked to a person, I always leave a message. Most of the time they call me back. I also think that they are relatively expensive for what they are.

However, I would wait 4 years for a HydraTech unit and I would cut holes in the floor and stop the car like Fred Flintstone before I bought another CPP hydroboost.

ScotI

02-22-2021, 02:42 PM

kwhizz

02-22-2021, 05:11 PM

ADY

02-22-2021, 05:54 PM

Ha... lot of hate for CCP, now I know what not to get when my Talon unit fails.

Maybe try calling Tobin at Kore3 and see if they can get it faster: http://www.kore3.com/categories.php

kwhizz

02-23-2021, 12:38 PM

Ha... lot of hate for CCP, now I know what not to get when my Talon unit fails.

Maybe try calling Tobin at Kore3 and see if they can get it faster: http://www.kore3.com/categories.php

Not Hate...... Just reality with my experience in dealing with them.....in both Tech support and parts supplied in their "Engineered" Disc Brake kit from some years ago.....

Ken

camcojb

02-23-2021, 01:04 PM

Check out your feedback post, Paul replied with some questions.

1965_SS

02-24-2021, 05:36 AM

:lmao::thumbsup:

However, I would wait 4 years for a HydraTech unit and I would cut holes in the floor and stop the car like Fred Flintstone before I bought another CPP hydroboost.

Spiffav8

02-24-2021, 09:22 AM

kwhizz

02-27-2021, 07:38 AM

Finally got some info on the HydraBoost........ Supposed to be delivered next week.....Finally !!!!!

214Chevy

02-27-2021, 11:13 AM

Finally got some info on the HydraBoost........ Supposed to be delivered next week.....Finally !!!!!

Glad it worked out for you. I ordered mine thru MCB and was quoted about a 6 weeks turn-around and got it in about 4 weeks.

kwhizz

03-02-2021, 03:57 PM

1in1969

03-02-2021, 05:24 PM

Feeling your pain Ken. That stinks. Totally Stainless is @ 4 months wait time on their bolt kits. Corona.......
Shawn

waynieZ

03-02-2021, 08:46 PM

Seeing your last post I hopped you'd get it soon, sorry to see the disappointment continues. It sucks.

TomM

03-03-2021, 04:24 AM

We ordered the HydraBoost system on 10/20 and were told 6-8 weeks delivery...... I work out of my home garage and didn't schedule getting Chris's car over until the 7th week...... That gave me a couple weeks to where I would have to store one of my cars somewhere and I then had a couple of weeks to finish up the swap...... So after 4 months and a week still waiting for the brake system the car is just sitting and waiting....... I had planned the winter out using the schedule provided by Hydraboost..... What a mess.... They are good and provide a Quality system but they need to understand that their projected scheduling goes way beyond their lack of intensity to live up to their projections....... my other plans for updates on my cars got cancelled for the winter....... Thanks Hydraboost !!!! Still waiting with no response to emails requesting delivery info

Those are exactly the kind of things that make me never use a vendor again. Good or not, nobody should be held up that long. At best, communicate with your customers and let them know so they can seek other avenues. Hell with your skill set, you could have made your own hydraboost system by now....Corona or not, there is no excuse at all for lack of communication..

T,

dontlifttoshift

03-03-2021, 07:15 AM

What is really irritating here is when I talked to Jim @ Hydratech on last Thursday he stated quite confidently that this unit was in assembly and would ship Friday or Monday at the latest and that I would receive a UPS tracking Email.

After Monday passed with no word I called yesterday morning and twice more in the afternoon and no one answered. This is the fourth time they have missed their due date on this order.

Hold on..... yep, all of the lines are currently busy again/still.

dontlifttoshift

03-04-2021, 06:52 AM

Saw Paul was logged in this morning, sent a PM, we will see if we get a reply.

If not, back to calling every hour until someone answers the phone. No sense leaving a message, no one calls back.

Hydratech®

03-04-2021, 09:49 AM

Hi Ken, Donnie,
First, I would like to start with "proof of life" of your order - it IS completed, just needs to get through the backlogged shipping department now:

http://www.hydratechbraking.com/images/FrameUpOrder.jpg

I hope it will also please you to know that you are receiving our latest design improvements in your build:

http://www.hydratechbraking.com/images/SSPUSHRODS.jpg

We were experiencing problems with inconsistent plating variations, causing thickness variations with the precision tolerances we work with in the construction of our systems. Phasing out the previous steel zinc plated pedal rods, MC pushrods, and brake pedal rod adapters into stainless steel versions has allowed us to improve the precision in these items to whole new level of evolution. It drove us nuts to have to constantly scrap out percentages of our zinc plated steel items if there were problems with parts not wanting to thread together properly, or look good if the plating wasn't proper. Stainless has dramatically raised the costs to produce these parts, but has solved an awful lot of headaches for us while dramatically increasing strength and quality.

http://www.hydratechbraking.com/images/SSCLEVIS.jpg

The short story is that you will definitely have your order delivered next week and we can leave it at that. Alternately, if you would like to REALLY know what in the hell the production hold ups have been, continue reading.

This is a long read, a candid personal explanation of circumstances on my end, so grab your favorite beverage, grab a seat and fasten your seat belt. First, I burned the bottoms of my feet very badly on Labor Day weekend 2019 in a fluke accident (extremely hot black Rhino Lining type coating on the flooring of a pontoon boat with a slide that we rented for the grand kids to enjoy). I have Diabetes, so the neuropathy in my feet prevented me from feeling just how hot the area was that I was standing on barefooted at the uncovered front of the boat (100 degree day with blazing hot sun). These nasty 3rd degree burns put me in a wheel chair for three months - I'll save you the terrible pictures that I had considered posting. Despite all of the back and forth intensive medical care, a horrible staph infection set in between two of my toes so badly that it had started in on my toe bones, which became very dangerously exposed (Osteomyelitis). MRI imaging revealed that considerable destruction was occurring to my toe bones, and exceptionally scary discussions of the necessity of untold amounts of amputation where going to have to be scheduled. The doctor said that once they started in, they would continue removal of everything that appeared troubled, meaning I could have woken up after surgery to find that they had decided to cut my entire foot off (!) I was completely blown away, so I did a MASSIVE amount of research to find that I needed to force my doctors to prescribe Doxycycline Hyclate (per all of my own research). They had warned me that the infection warranted immediate amputation, but I insisted on seeing what the results would be first with this powerful antibiotic, combined with Amoxicillin Clavulanate. The doctors kept telling me scary cases were the bone infections like this could quickly spread up my leg, leading to vastly larger possible amputation if it got out of hand, possibly even sepsis leading to death. It kept seeming like they wanted to prep me for surgery and start cutting, but I was stubbornly refusing. DAMN GOOD THING THAT I DID, because the infection cleared up within 30 days, with the gaping hole and protruding bone healing completely shut to the amazement of the doctors. I had just started getting out of the wheel chair for a bit at a time in January of 2020, happy to be back on my feet even though it hurt like hell to stand and walk. To this day, I am still having troubles with my feet and ankles if I stay on my feet for longer periods, but I can at least make it up and down the stairs now slowly and carefully and waddle around the shop decently. I am blessed to have some good people working for me to help with all of the big physical work (unloading semi deliveries and such).

So just as soon as I feel that I have dodged the bullet of amputation and am starting to get around almost back to normal at the end of January, here comes COVID in February. We saw a complete shutdown of orders, so I stopped ordering in parts until we could evaluate what things were going to look like. We had to receive the Federal PPP and the EIDL to keep everybody working and cover the large loss of revenue with sales having gone flat with the world gripped in fear of this deadly pandemic starting in. By the beginning of April, I saw that sales were starting to surprisingly pick back up. I would’ve never imagined that, but apparently people were stuck at home and wanted something to tinker with. I then started ordering parts of all kinds again, finding that we couldn’t get much of anything direct from Aeroquip and Bosch due to system wide blackouts in production, but had no problems with the machinists at this time as they were very low on work with their big accounts shut down, punching our orders out in 30 +/- days. I started dealing with as many sources as I could to do everything possible to get my hands on parts – even Matt's Classic Bowties and other friends in the industry helped me with getting Atech to let loose of the Aeroquip hose ends they were hoarding. Slowly but surely I started to get inventory back into decent stocking levels, but at costs that were almost 60% higher than usual as per having to purchase from sources that knew they had everybody by the balls (bastards).

We then ran into a problems with the show prep units which you may know about (our lead painter no longer with us due to his drug problems):
https://lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php?t=58620
The net result of firing our lead painter was that I was now having to do all of the special show preparation paint work, essentially having to cover an additional 40 hours of work per week until I could train in a new employee to cover this position. All this time later, 3 employees later, we now have a painter that is doing well enough through his training to relieve me of the insane additional work load I was covering. I still have to rework a few units here and there that didn't turn out quite right, but Rob is getting better and better at it.

Now recently we ran into an even bigger problem where ten grand worth of A/F/X plates all had to go into the scrap bin (made me sick). You can see in the image of the backside of a mounting plate counterbore with an area marked in red. This shows how far off center the rear counterbores were in a large amount of billet plates received:

http://www.hydratechbraking.com/images/DEFECTIVE%20MP.jpg

Our lead times with the machinists has swelled considerably as their large accounts (Whirlpool, John Deere, Parker-Hannafin and such) started to retroactively place double / triple sized catch up orders with them, so I had ordered in large double batches of the various popular billet plates. It took almost four months for them to produce our production order, probably would have been better if I had placed smaller orders spaced apart some. Soooo… we finally received the order of A/F/X system plates (needed for your order), loaded them onto our shelves with a smile, and starting working towards getting after a very substantial amount of back logged A/F/X orders. We get the units built, ready to install the mounting plates onto the brake units, and I’ll be a fried damn ass catfish, we discovered that the plates were machined correctly on the front side, but off by a ¼ inch in the backside, not allowing the brake unit mounting nut to be installed. We went through the entire (loooong awaited) batch to find each and every one was machined improperly, which sucks even worse because we had spent over 30 hours carefully preparing them (deep cleaning, clear coating, then oven baking them all). None of us could believe that the problem wasn’t directly visual at the time we were preparing the plates – we just didn’t see it while handling the plates, never having a problem like this before. I contacted the owner of the machine shop and read him the absolute riot act - they were also very pissed to have to eat over 10k worth of plates straight into the scrap heap.

Next, the machine shop gets shut down due to a Covid outbreak. They had a few people fall ill and test positive, which forced the shut down. The entire shop had to be sterilized, everybody had to be tested and quarantine, those that had Covid managed to get through it. The state is very strict when it comes to reported Covid outbreaks, so the shop had to wait to get the "all clear" from them before they could re-open. So now we have yet another exceptionally problematic delay. The good news is that everybody is ok now. They had to sterilize all incoming and outgoing packages, quarantining them for a minimum or 72 hours before being handled. We were on edge about receiving boxes of parts from them, also spraying everything down upon arrival here along with not touching the boxes for 72 hours. I had considered investing in a UV-C sterilizer, though deemed the antiviral spray down and 72 hour quarantine adequate. Nice, right? Covid knocking on our door seemingly, with them only being a few miles away from us. One of our part time girls also contracted Covid, and I was very paranoid about her coming back to work after getting the all clear, as I am one of those people considered to be "high risk with underlying causes". So far, so good, scheduled to roll my sleeve up within the Group 1C coming up next. I have been so paranoid, as NOBODY around this area wears masks and gloves, zero social distancing - scary to be out in public in a checkout line with people around you that don't care about how you may feel about the situation.

With the machine shop now back in action, they back traced the problem, corrected it in their programming and fixtures, and we just now took delivery of the replacement batch of these A/F/X plates yet another two months later, inspecting each and every one to find them all proper (THANK GOD). This means we have now resumed production on the A/F/X systems.

Yes, I agree with you that lead times on certain models have gone radically off of the deep end. I am working so damn hard to overcome our supplier issues, identifying where the problems are, then placing heavy stock orders with Aeroquip six months in advance to solve that lead time problem, placing orders for brake units 3 months in advance, now also stocking them on a group of new racks set up in the shop specifically dedicated to staying way ahead of the curve on these here in house (in addition to a warehousing company that keeps 60 days of our brake unit needs now in stock for us at all times to buffer availability problems), and have been placing orders in with the machinists 3 months in advance. I now have invested very heavily into keeping stocking levels on all items at levels triple+ what they used to ever be in years gone by, and am finding that I have to move the orders with the specialty machinists up even further still (from the prior 3 months now to 6 months). The amount of money put into fighting the lead time problems is well north of a 100k, and I STILL can’t get production running right due to supply issue problems. It doesn't make me feel any better to know that everybody else I have spoken with in the industry is also having nightmares with supplier issues.

Right when you think lightning just can't keep striking, here is yet another disaster we had to overcome this year. I don't know if anybody else in the industry has caught this yet, but there is a raging problem with deformed stamped steel clevises out there, no matter what brand or supplier we have tried. Check this out:

http://www.hydratechbraking.com/images/JUNKCLEVIS.jpg

This of course also led to further production delays, as there was no way we were going to ship systems with any junk like this. I have over 350+ of these junk clevises in stock from all different suppliers, essentially nothing but scrap metal. This is why we have come up with the new custom design super duty forged stainless steel clevises. Even the cross pins and the cotter pins are stainless, so don't accidentally drop one behind the carpet during installation, as a magnet will not work on these items to fish them out. These new SS clevises cost us over 5 times more than the previous stamped steel stock type clevises used to. We had discussed the clevis problem with our friends at Wilwood, and they interestingly said they did not see a market for these - astounding because so many different models of GM vehicles run these. The Wilwood clevises would have been black e-coated aluminum, so I feel that we did best to go with these 80,000 PSI tensile strength 316 alloy overkill SS clevises.

Another production disaster we had to face last year was that Omega / Corteco that used to produce the brass seat inserts we use decided to discontinue them - good grief. So now we have been forced to produce these of our own means also at considerably greater expense. That being said, at least we upgraded them to an improved bronze alloy as opposed to the previous brass:

http://www.hydratechbraking.com/images/HBS9106.jpg

Maybe it is going to take having to shut down for a month or two to get caught up with all of our orders, though that creates a whole ‘nuther set of issues as we have been filling orders for models that we have had appropriate stock for. Some customers have been getting certain models in 30 days, only because we have had all of the inventory required to build these less popular models.

We are currently taking heavy fire left and right. My guy Jim is having a dickens of a time trying to keep his head straight with irate customers getting completely unhinged with him daily. I suppose the summary is that we are victims of Covid, causing delays that I would have never believed possible. This has all been compounded by one of the strongest amount of summer sales in our history which was exactly the opposite of what was expected (catching us completely off guard). We had carefully warned everybody at the time of order that lead times have been approximately doubled due to supplier issues, though it turns out that the leads have actually tripled. 90% of our clientele have been very understanding and patient, though 10% of them have been ballistic and unruly.

Now that I have taken the time to document all of this, hopefully those that see this will have a better understanding as to "what the hell is going on". We are working hard to get a grip on our challenges and overcome them. Talk of Hydratech going out of business on the "other forum" was removed because it was complete BS. Hydratech has been in existence 21 years now, producing the best products we ever have. I refuse to cut quality just to get orders out the door faster. I have always believed that the initial discomfort of delays in receiving an order can eventually be forgiven and forgotten if it is the best quality money can buy. What can never be forgiven is the sting of grabbing something cheap and fast, then having to live with the heartburn of an inferior product from there on out, especially with a brake assist unit being a life line part of a vehicle.

Summary? We can't thank you enough for your support and PATIENCE with us as we work through the challenges. I built this business from the ground up 21 years ago with an awful lot of "blood, sweat, and tears", always ever evolving my designs. Hopefully you see that we really care, and would love nothing more than to reel in our lead times back to pre Covid times (or faster) as soon as we can as my absolute top priority.

:lateral:

dontlifttoshift

03-04-2021, 11:12 AM

Glad you posted that here so I don't have to wait for my reply to post in feedback..

I am sorry for everything you have been through, however, it was more important to garner sympathy than to simply reply to my PM at 7:45 this morning asking for a status update. That says a lot. You could have spent the morning helping poor Jim answer the phone and deal with all those irate customers instead of telling us about your feet.

When Ken posted in feedback last week you requested more information and he gave it to you. No follow up on your end.

When I have left messages inquiring about the status of this order I never heard anything back.

When I did get through, I got "two more weeks"

When I was told it would ship tomorrow and it didn't nobody could be bothered to supply an answer......even now, you built in an excuse as to why it won't ship today as your shipping department is backed up.

The failure isn't the delivery time. The failure is the complete disregard for the customer and that was in your control the whole time.

Hydratech®

03-04-2021, 08:21 PM

http://www.hydratechbraking.com/images/FUtracking.JPG

kwhizz

03-06-2021, 08:09 AM

From a Customers perspective when we ordered the unit on Oct 20th we were told 6-8 weeks delivery........ That's what we were told.....that's what we were basing our actions on...... End of Story...

Ken

Cheveezy

03-06-2021, 02:49 PM

Where did all of our responses go? I think potential customers need to see what they could be facing if they order from Hydratech. Don't like the sensorship.

Vortech404

03-06-2021, 03:28 PM

Actually I check out this thread to see the bad ass Chevelle. I feel we can see the vendor problems in the feed back section. Keep the updates coming. Car looks great.

John

camcojb

03-06-2021, 04:10 PM

Where did all of our responses go? I think potential customers need to see what they could be facing if they order from Hydratech. Don't like the sensorship.

Actually I check out this thread to see the bad ass Chevelle. I feel we can see the vendor problems in the feed back section. Keep the updates coming. Car looks great.

John
I edited this because it is gone way off track. All the info and responses from Ken and Paul are in the vendor feedback forum

warhawkchevelle

03-06-2021, 11:38 PM

Looking forward to seeing more on this build, hopefully this Hydratech issue gets resolved now :gitrdun:

kwhizz

03-07-2021, 04:56 AM

Spiffav8

03-08-2021, 09:28 AM

I asked Jody to remove the Negative Posts as they were not in the best interest of the thread or this site...... Like Jody said they are still in the Vendor Feedback section.....Hopefully we are a couple of days from having the project completed.... I have to say every time I get under the car I am just amazed at the quality of the Holley / Hooker headers and exhaust system.....A work of art....Highly recommend their products to anyone doing a "A" body swap !!!!

Ken

Smart move Ken.

Looking forward to seeing more pics and hopefully some video. The details on this build and how you’ve gone about accomplishing it have been a lot of fun to watch. I’m excited for what’s to come.

:captain:

kwhizz

03-08-2021, 06:55 PM

Got the hydra boost system today and started with the last piece of the puzzle. Getting closer

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

waynieZ

03-08-2021, 09:21 PM

Great news! I hope it's smooth sailing from now on.

Spiffav8

03-08-2021, 09:24 PM

Got the hydra boost system today and started with the last piece of the puzzle. Getting closer

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Yes! :RunninDog:

kwhizz

03-12-2021, 04:46 AM

Finally got the Hydro Boost and got it installed..... Had the high and low pressure hoses made and installed.... Had to reposition the proportioning valve...... LOL..... Had to take the fender well out to get at the brake lines to make new ones to suit....another one of those simple things that turned into a multi-hour fix......Anyhow got the reservoir installed and hooked up .........filled the system with fluid and have to go thru the process of bleeding all the air bubbles out of the hydro boost system...... Then all I need to do is bleed the brakes and put the Hood on.....Then it needs to go for a Dyno-Tune to get the system balanced.......Another one finally finished......
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/a251/kwhizz/001(299).JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/kwhizz/a/dcd85e21-08d4-4ab7-b024-482a821dc8f4/p/6ac9e465-693c-4ce1-ad33-7f81adfddf6e)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/a251/kwhizz/001(296).JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/kwhizz/a/dcd85e21-08d4-4ab7-b024-482a821dc8f4/p/61e2d1b9-f18f-4204-8afd-bc3e30533311)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/a251/kwhizz/001(293).JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/kwhizz/a/dcd85e21-08d4-4ab7-b024-482a821dc8f4/p/3be6e7fb-7767-4085-9324-9d543e4f67fb)

Spiffav8

03-12-2021, 10:29 AM

Most excellent! Who’s doing the tune for you?

waynieZ

03-12-2021, 11:46 AM

Great news Ken, projects moving now.

kwhizz

03-12-2021, 03:26 PM

Most excellent! Who’s doing the tune for you?

Either Nickey Chicago or ASSC Racing.......

Ken

Hydratech®

03-20-2021, 12:05 AM

Curious, you went through the trouble of yanking the inner fender well out so as to rework the brake lines. Is there any particular reason why you didn't take the opportunity to ditch the non adjustable OE block style proportioning valve and install a knob or lever type of inline proportioning valve to allow full adjustment of your front to rear brake bias?

With any modified vehicle, it is critically important to be able to adjust your front to rear bias to insure proper braking actions, regardless of whether it is a disc / drum or disc / disc system. Even changes in tires, springs, shocks, and suspension require retuning the brake bias to achieve safe, full, well rounded, thoroughly tested braking performance. As with most muscle cars, there is typically a sizeable increase of the amount of rubber in the rear, where you now have much more traction to work with. Since there is more traction in the rear, you can usually up tune the amount of rear braking activity. If you have too much front brake activity and not enough rear brake activity, the front wheels will lock before the rear brakes come up to pressure resulting in a loss of ability to steer the vehicle. Conversely, over active rear braking will cause the tail end of the vehicle to come around on you during hard braking. The installation of a hydroboost system, especially along with upscale front brakes, can produce such incredible amounts of braking power that chassis weight shift during harsh stops brings a complete change to the vehicle's proportioning needs. Most all adjustable proportioning valves are capable of dialing back up to 57% of rear brake activity, or adjust all the way up to 100% full pressure to the rear brakes. Note that all scenarios, regardless of the type of proportioning, always allow full power to the front brakes.

Leaving a block style combination / proportioning valve in place means that you have to take what you get for results, whether they happen to be in the ball park or not. This to me is like the installation of a carburetor and / or fuel injection system, along with a distributor that has zero adjustment, and then hoping the engine runs right. I can't imagine anybody accepting that, yet so many people do about the same thing by not introducing an adjustable brake proportioning valve into their modified vehicles. Will it stop? Of course. But will it stop safely and predictably in the shortest possible distance from speed? Maybe you will get lucky to find the preset proportioning is in the basic ball park. If not, you may have to yank that fender well back out and rework the brake lines again to make the change to an adjustable arrangement. If you do end up having to do that, at least it will also look considerably cleaner with that block removed from under the master cylinder.

Again, just curious, as it struck me odd to see you go through all the trouble of reworking the brake lines, yet leaving the block in place.

kwhizz

03-20-2021, 06:15 AM

It's not a stock proportioning valve....... It's set-up for 4 wheels disc brakes....

Ken

Hydratech®

03-21-2021, 03:27 AM

FYI - I understand that it is a disc / disc combination valve you have there. It may have been in the zone for your previous combo as part of a matched braking package, but it is going to be a crap shoot now as to how it handles the changes to the new front disc upgrade, along with now being hydroboost powered. Here is the statement in the Wilwood instructions from the brake kit you installed:

http://www.hydratechbraking.com/images/BRAKEBIAS.JPG

Most disc / disc block style proportioning blocks like you have limit back pressures to the rear brakes too much, as the engineering inside of them are purposely designed that way to make sure the rear end doesn't possibly come around on you during strong braking. The problem is that they are always detuned to the point of having the rear brakes do approximately 20-25% less than what they really should be doing, especially if you have good amount of tire size back there. The idea behind that thinking is that it is considered less dangerous for your front brakes to lock up before the rear brakes would. With this internal preset tuning, you essentially lose your ability to steer the vehicle with the front brakes locked up, but at least the rear of the vehicle doesn't try to come around on you. That's how these are calibrated. In a matched set of brakes front / rear, this may end up being somewhat in the zone, but now you have changed that by putting stronger front brakes into the scenario, but did not put the matching set of Wilwood brakes in the rear. Having a matched set of front and rear brakes provides the initial proper front to rear balance by providing appropriately sized caliper pistons, pad compounds, and rotor diameters. Mixing brake combos of new upscale brakes up front while retaining the old rear discs from a different package screws this balance completely up. The reality is that this now results in the rear brakes actually doing even less than they used to, and now there is nothing you can do about it save for following up with the installation of considerably more aggressive pad compounds in the rear, swapping in calipers with larger piston sizes, or ideally following up with an upgrade to the Wilwood specified matching rear brake kit. That's why an adjustable proportioning valve should have been installed instead of retaining the non adjustable block style proportioning valve, as you could have simply tweaked the setting around to adjust for the mismatch of front to rear brakes you now currently have. Having the front to rear brake bias tuned in just right is typically worth about 25 feet less stopping distance from 70 MPH, which can be the difference between smashing your car or not.

Next, take a look at this image of your front brake kit:

http://www.hydratechbraking.com/images/WILWOOD6PISTON.JPG

What you see is a machined rotor in this image. This isn't stated in the instructions other than to say this brake kit is to be installed by a person qualified, experienced, and competent in the installation and maintenance of disc brakes. That very wide and general statement doesn't specifically say this, but the image shows what it should look like once installed. What am I referring to? 2 piece rotor designs will always have some run out, even if the bolts are very carefully torqued in proper sequence. This means that the rotors need to be put onto a brake lathe and a light cut be performed to insure that any runout is removed before final installation, especially in scenarios like this brake package that have fixed / non floating caliper designs. I have never seen a two piece rotor design that has zero runout in it, typically having to machine off anywhere from 15-25 thousandths to get them trued to prevent brake pulsation. A person qualified, experienced, and competent in the installation and maintenance of disc brakes knows that these rotors must be machined before road use is attempted.

Additionally, and very importantly, while that black coating on your rotors may look cool, it really is a pestilence if not machined off of the friction areas before road use. If this coating is not removed, the pads will have to wear through it, initially causing the braking to be WAY grabby and overly aggressive. We get tech calls from customers complaining that their braking actions are undriveable - like an ON / OFF switch being too grabby to drive. We ask them if their brakes at the wheels are brand new, and if the rotors are coated, and they always say yes. We then inform them that this coating was to be machined off prior to running the brakes, and that this coating is now leaving unwanted deposits on the brake pads which leads to grabbing, along with heavy brake pulsation until all of the coating is worn off by the pads. The bad news there is that the coating doesn't wear off evenly, smearing around leaving a considerable amount of TV (thickness variation). When this is happening, you will see uneven patches of black and silver on the rotor friction areas. Some get lucky by taking the vehicle out for a heavy pound session to wear off the coating, but most end up having to pull their rotors back off and have them machined. When this happens, we also recommend the pads have a few thousandths milled off of the friction areas to remove the burnished in coating out of them, or replace the pad set entirely...

:rolleyes:

kwhizz

03-21-2021, 05:46 AM

Thanks for your advice......If there is an issue I will definitely take your advice and change things around !!!!!

Ken

kwhizz

03-30-2021, 04:18 AM

Got the car finished and took it to ASSC for tuning........ Need to get the front end aligned, get the A/C system charged and it seems the steering box has a slight leak...... Might need to replace it...... Just about there.... Brakes are Awsum......

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/a251/kwhizz/001(331).JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/kwhizz/a/dcd85e21-08d4-4ab7-b024-482a821dc8f4/p/32a0d175-2305-4639-940c-3eef000666f3)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/a251/kwhizz/001(330).JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/kwhizz/a/dcd85e21-08d4-4ab7-b024-482a821dc8f4/p/db7974c3-40a7-4739-94ca-ad34855a2400)

214Chevy

03-30-2021, 06:51 AM

Very nice and congrats on getting it finished. Very classy looking and well done!!

waynieZ

03-30-2021, 02:14 PM

Congratulations getin her done! That's a nice looking car. let us know how the tune goes.

kwhizz

03-31-2021, 03:54 PM

Got the car back from Larry at ASSC today...... After tuning it made basically 398 H.P and 394 ft pounds of torque........Perfect balance ........ Front end alignment, A/C system recharged and new Tires next week
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/a251/kwhizz/001(332).JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/kwhizz/a/dcd85e21-08d4-4ab7-b024-482a821dc8f4/p/60cebfa3-a4ad-48db-b9f3-2385d203ba68)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/a251/kwhizz/001(333).JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/kwhizz/a/dcd85e21-08d4-4ab7-b024-482a821dc8f4/p/bc3b2939-7fde-4ab7-8b76-e2f3a068f15f)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/a251/kwhizz/001(330).JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/kwhizz/a/dcd85e21-08d4-4ab7-b024-482a821dc8f4/p/db7974c3-40a7-4739-94ca-ad34855a2400)

waynieZ

03-31-2021, 04:11 PM

Nice numbers, plenty of power to make it a fun ride. Glad it all went well. Nice job Ken.

Hydratech®

03-31-2021, 10:09 PM

Brakes are Awsum......

So it looks like you dodged a bullet in the brake balance department so far? Feels well balanced? I had been giving your scenario some thought, and if your front brakes seem to powerful compared to the rear (once you have put a few hundred miles on it), you could leave the proportioning block you have in place, then swap in some harder pads up front, or alternately some pads with more bite in the rear as a tuning mod (only if needed). From what you are saying, you have gotten lucky as it must be in the ball park. The harder you stop, the more weight shifts off of the rear tires and onto the front tires, so in this case it looks like a win. Pulling that fenderwell back out and replumbing for an adjustable prop valve looks like it won't be needed - bonus!

Build looks great - proud to have our system in there to bring all of those ponies back down easily with a quickness as needed.
That way you can get more rowdy with it! :cheers:

:thumbsup:

kwhizz

04-01-2021, 04:07 AM

The car stops like an Indy Car....... Brakes are awsum !!!!!!!

kwhizz

04-25-2021, 10:21 AM

Need some opinions on how to correct a minor issue......I replaced the power steering box in the car due to a little leaking issue (12.7 to 1 Lee box) and replaced it with a 12.7 Borgeson box........ Leak gone..... But the box is effortless while driving the car..... No road feel at all..... So...with the hydraboost in the system what would be the best way to reduce the Volume/Pressue slightly to the box without compromising the system.......Options are to put a Height's flow control valve to the box or a reducer fitting in the power steering pump (Turn one 3 gal per minute 1500 psi)......

Thanks

Ken

andrewb70

04-25-2021, 12:33 PM

kwhizz

04-26-2021, 03:41 PM

I would call Turn One. I bet they will have a solution for you.

Andrew

Talked to Turn One today and found out that it's not that simple of a problem to balance out........ The original box was fine just had a leak..... Seems the best/easiest way to get what I want is to get the Lee box rebuilt and put it back in as it is balanced with the rest of the system pretty good and had the road feel that seems normal....... Live and learn....

Ken

andrewb70

04-27-2021, 09:52 AM

Talked to Turn One today and found out that it's not that simple of a problem to balance out........ The original box was fine just had a leak..... Seems the best/easiest way to get what I want is to get the Lee box rebuilt and put it back in as it is balanced with the rest of the system pretty good and had the road feel that seems normal....... Live and learn....

Ken

Well, at least you have a solution. As always, there is a chain of cause and effect when changing parts around. That's hotrodding!

Andrew

camcojb

04-27-2021, 04:37 PM

I would still try a flow reducer, or pressure reducer kit.

https://www.borgeson.com/xcart/product.php?productid=1684&cat=133&page=1

Hydratech®

04-27-2021, 08:24 PM

Contrary to what most everybody thinks, pressure and volume can be adjusted around to help a bit, but the actual steering feel or firmness is dictated by the input shaft of the steering gear. It looks like just a solid splined steel shaft, though it is actually a torsion bar, meaning it will flex under twisting load. The stiffer the torsion bar / input shaft is, the firmer the steering response will be and vice versa. Yes, some tuning can always be accomplished externally, though this is a classic case where the actual steering gear is where the difference is. There were no changes made to pump flow or max relief pressure, yet the replacement steering gear has no feel to it compared to the Lee prepared box.

Yes, you could play around with all different kinds of PS system tuning, though it sounds to me like you would ultimately be vastly happier to have the Lee prepared box freshened up and put back into service. I say drive it with the Borgeson box until the Lee box comes back, then re-install the Lee box and live happy. I am sure there are plenty of people out there that would gladly take the Borgeson box off of your hands after you are done with it.

Hydratech®

04-27-2021, 08:48 PM

https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/130990-Overboosted-steering-with-hydroboost-setup

:cheers:

kwhizz

05-02-2021, 08:24 AM

Original Lee Eng Box is out for rebuild.......

kwhizz

06-12-2021, 03:44 PM

Couple of minor issues...... Called Turn one about a couple of things..... #1 the pump was making a whirring sound and they explained to me that I had the Gravity feed line to the pump not in the optimum situation and the reservoir tank I was using didn't have flow diverters on the return lines inside the unit.....Bought a Concept One tank with those features and mounted the tank higher with a straight feed line to the pump....... Bingo..... Noise gone..... Turn one also rebuilt the Lee Steering box and everything is back to normal with great road feel........ Learn something every day.....

Ken

Hydratech®

06-18-2021, 05:51 PM

Great to hear that you have the Lee box freshened back up and have also chased out the PS pump noise - hooray! Check that off the list now with a smile.

Ok, soap box time now: It absolutely astounds me after 21 years of owning / operating Hydratech that the aftermarket is still peddling PS reservoirs that are nothing more than a holding tank with zero regards to proper internal engineering. This is fine as a coolant overflow tank, but most definitely not acceptable for power steering use. The PS pump is to be fed a steady supply of calm de-aerated fluid right? This requires a PS reservoir to be more than just a can with some input / output fittings in it. If you think about it, a PS pump is a vane style pump that acts much like a turbine in its operations. Now take and run a high RPM spirited blast with the vehicle and it has the same net effect as putting a quart of PS fluid in a blender and hitting puree. This "agitated" fluid returns back to the PS reservoir, where it must be allowed as much "fluid dwell time" as possible before being sucked back into the PS pump again. This requires careful design to divert returning fluid away from the suction / feed / output port of the reservoir. Spoken the other way around for the sake of clarity, the fluid needs a moment to allow any aeration / foaming to float to the top and dissipate before being fed back to the PS pump. I will not "name names", but some of the larger highly vaunted companies out there produce these very good looking reservoirs, BUT zero - zip - zilch internal engineering, just a storage can. This then of course leads to PS system noise, possibly even failure, as aerated PS fluid will chatter the PS pump vanes leading to pump damage. One company even states that its PS pump is not compatible with hydroboost, when actually it is only a cover up for their poorly designed remote reservoir. Take this same company's front drive arrangement, remove their remote reservoir and replace it with say a Turn One or other properly designed reservoir and Presto! The system now runs just fine - go figure. They know it, but they aren't willing to do anything to improve their design. It sure is a shame to remove such a good looking reservoir from their front drive arrangement, but it just doesn't work properly.

Without going too far into PS reservoir design nuances, you really need two things:

Capacity, so that the returning fluid has a moment to dissipate any aeration (referred to as fluid dwell time). Would you put a 3 quart oil pan on your engine - um, no. Most all automotive enthusiasts know that you would instead install an oil pan with increased capacity. Same goes for the PS reservoir - the more capacity, the longer the fluid dwell time before it gets fed back into the PS pump.

Baffling, so that returning fluid is taken to the farthest possible point of the reservoir before being sucked back into the PS pump. This simply gives any aeration a chance to rise to the top. Even a standard engine oil pan still makes a good basic comparison, as it has some internal baffling to keep "windage whipped" oil from getting to the oil pump pickup before it has a chance to calm down a bit.

So when looking at a PS reservoir for your build, you can count on most OEM style PS pump reservoirs to have "million dollar engineering" behind what may just look like a basic holding tank. Take a look inside or cut one open and you will see baffling and flow diverters strategically placed. You will usually be fine running a factory pump with a matched reservoir. If looking at an aftermarket reservoir, make sure it has ample capacity and proper technology inside of it. Ken's whirring pump noise would have had most chasing the pump around, when it actually wan't the pump's fault at all, instead being the reservoir feeding it. One other point of mention is that most all OEM remote reservoirs have an average of a 5/8" inner diameter feed to the pump. -8 AN is a major culprit here, as the inner diameter is woefully inadequate, so make certain that you are looking at -10 AN. Even then, you may have to run some of these -10 adapters and fittings we have seen through a drill press if possible if you see the inner diameters are bottlenecked down too small. Last, but not least, you want to keep your distance between a remote reservoir and the pump as short and as straight as possible. Every harsh turn a fluid of most any sort takes is a restriction to flow...

Ok, of my soap box now! We just get sooooo many tech calls regarding this...

:lateral:

kwhizz

06-20-2021, 06:47 AM

Thanks for supplying Technical info that most of us wouldn't have a clue about....... Thanks again !!!!

Ken

kwhizz

10-02-2021, 07:34 AM

A little update...... After the LS transplant and installing all the Dakota Digital products ...... the car was Awsum....Chris took the car on the Hot Rod Power tour...... Driving to Ohio for the start everything was perfect...Then during the middle of the week the car started having some issues.....He called and told me the Dakota dash had only half the gauges working and the cooling fans wouldn't run....... Hummm!!!!!!......This happened sporadically....Hummmm!!!!........ They ended up adding a manual switch to turn the fans on and he made it home .......I was thinking it was a Dakota digital issue...... LOL..... after getting the car into Frame-up and Donnie and his crew looked into the issue....... They found that the OBD splitter harness I added for the ease of Scanning if required was the problem..... The Harness was the issue....... They removed it and plugged the OBD plug from the GM harness directly into the Dakota module and everything is perfect again..... Just wanted to post this because it might help somebody in the future......

Ken

dhutton

10-02-2021, 11:14 AM

I have had issues on several builds due to the use of splitters. Some work and some don’t. The shorter ones that use ribbon cable or the ones without cable seem to work better.

I had one issue where the voltmeter wouldn’t work until I changed the bus address of the Dakota Digital BIM. You have four options for bus address in the BIM.

I spent some time looking to see if anyone made a bus buffer or expander without success.

Don

waynieZ

10-03-2021, 07:16 AM

Thanks for the heads up, I was thinking of using one .

dhutton

10-05-2021, 10:29 AM

I have had good luck with this splitter

https://www.ebay.com/itm/333415688554

Don

dontlifttoshift

10-05-2021, 11:05 AM

dhutton, you're an EE right?

I was under the impression that the signal couldn't be split and that the issue wasn't the splitter so much as the splitting of the signal. I tried a couple of splitters when the BIM modules first came out and was less than successful so I have always avoided them as a rule.

If you got tech to impart, I am interested. Thanks!

dhutton

10-05-2021, 11:27 AM

Hi Donny. Ya retired EE. Well I have a couple of theories. With the long cables on the splitters there can be significant delayed reflections of the signals (caused by impedance mismatches) that can distort the signal. With the short lengths of the above splitter the reflections do not cause distortion. The other possibility is that the added capacitance of the cables is loading the signal but that seems less likely.

To be honest I haven’t been motivated enough to dust off my oscilloscope and look at the waveforms with and without the splitter.

Don