63’ Chevy II Project “The Golden Girl”

[64G-lark]

I lost my previous project car a 64’ Buick Skylark to a freak electrical fire last September. The insurance company totaled it out and I bought it back. Fortunately the majority of the damage was to the interior and the cowl area of the car, so I was able to salvage a lot of parts.
I began hunting a new car to build last fall, and thought I would find another GM A-body car so I could reuse many of my parts. I ran across a Chevy II that wasn’t to far away and decided to change plans. I have always liked the early Chevy II’s and loved the Detroit Speed car.
The car I found was a 1963 Super Sport car although that option was mostly emblems as they all came with six cylinders. The previous owner had built the car in a different style than what I had planned. The car had a heavily modified 292 six and a five speed transmission. The good part was the body and paint looked good and thats what I was interested in. I didn’t want to deal with paint and body work. Here is what I started with.

https://i.postimg.cc/3x2gnS6X/2-B4-A7-A50-5-F20-498-C-AC83-5-D618-E9-CFF0-F.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

https://i.postimg.cc/Kzb3qBwR/776-DD8-C0-BD1-D-42-E9-8-A5-D-113-BB69-AAEA8.jpg (https://postimg.cc/Z9fq0BTS)

https://i.postimg.cc/1tKnL41M/1-BB8-B6-EF-3999-48-BA-9981-D8-AAD70-DB222.jpg (https://postimg.cc/HcVkMYx7)

[64G-lark]

The car was originally black with a white painted top. It had been stripped to bare metal and painted GTO Tiger Gold. I liked the color combination and had a vision for where I wanted to take it.

https://i.postimg.cc/cLpSfN5c/A9-C0-F2-E2-16-D9-4705-B75-A-03-A417-BF748-F.jpg (https://postimg.cc/mPyJGK4c)

https://i.postimg.cc/Gm8RBpz2/8196-CC8-D-9-A4-F-4572-A9-EC-37234-F1-F6036.jpg (https://postimg.cc/zyr668sZ)

[64G-lark]

I drove the car less than five miles before the tear down began. I spent the first two months stripping thick layers of undercoating from the bottom of the car, the trunk and even under the carpet. As the layers came off, years of hidden repairs became exposed. At some point the floor pans and trunk pan had been replaced. It was poorly done and the way the front subframe mounts were reattached was down right scary. Lag screws are not good! I pushed forward and stripped it all down to bare metal. More rust issues behind the rear bumper. I knew I would be replacing the trans tunnel to make room for a T-56 and it looked like I would be replacing even more now.

https://i.postimg.cc/Y9Lsp4xN/001-D0-D21-DAC0-4-A4-D-9-BC9-172978-A5-BF28.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

https://i.postimg.cc/vmNKF75H/C079-F1-BD-B8-CD-4259-A077-1-CFE07116-C03.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

https://i.postimg.cc/3wRqcf4c/8-B1-AA79-C-DE06-4-A10-970-F-942-B53-A01-ECB.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

https://i.postimg.cc/L6Kr8VwJ/73-A8-A633-1790-449-F-A191-ED2-EDE6-C8-EF4.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

https://i.postimg.cc/DzLxHVf5/BA7-DD779-EF92-4-EFB-B77-D-07-DE49-D83-FA6.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

https://i.postimg.cc/L4Pjc6rc/BE88435-F-1-EF8-45-EC-B839-C8462-A1-BCEE2.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

The tear down begins.

https://i.postimg.cc/t4Vkn06y/EE20888-D-6606-4-A5-C-8-FE1-EC0-EAE2-B7-C5-D.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

https://i.postimg.cc/DZhxKC8h/61685-AFC-C4-F7-4-EAC-9045-438169-D0909-E.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

https://i.postimg.cc/qqMQNzsZ/4-F391-FCA-FBD1-4760-A626-BB7-FBD6-E8-BBA.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

I sold the 292 and the five speed that was in the car. I was surprised there is a cult following for these inline engines as I had multiple people wanting it. It was pretty trick for a six as it had a Sissels lump port head, forged pistons, roller rockers, etc. It sounded like a old log truck. It went on to live a new life in a early 60's Chevy truck.

https://i.postimg.cc/ncsGqDRM/63686-C67-3-E88-4-C5-B-A1-E4-6-C2-A9-BB87-CE4.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

The previous owner had installed Church Boys Racing suspension components on the stock subframe/ doghouse. The design is kind of a mix of stock and aftermarket as the coil overs are above the upper control arms. Greg Wiedeman purchased these for his car.

https://i.postimg.cc/Wz62bSZH/9508-C003-582-F-4049-9-CF2-CDF282457239.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

[64G-lark]

Once the bottom side was stripped and primed I started mocking up the new upgrades.

https://i.postimg.cc/RC8sYYPy/97269-EAC-E3-CA-42-E3-8-AEF-BCEDF47669-D9.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

https://i.postimg.cc/PNsM5B9q/4673-DD5-E-07-A1-44-F3-9-D7-D-3-C00017-F815-D.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

https://i.postimg.cc/CMfXwYfS/0825-D6-E6-9-F08-423-D-8608-B2599729-C63-D.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

I used my previous engine and trans. For mock up. Excuse the Buick Green LS3 it’s just mock up at this point.

https://i.postimg.cc/3JXqDBBq/CCC34878-14-E6-468-B-B922-76-C1-C1-B28-FEF.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

https://i.postimg.cc/m2fqDqQM/3-A564-AFF-AFA6-441-B-A5-B9-AF2-ED0-D147-F5.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

https://i.postimg.cc/cLdb7nkL/7096-D8-D1-55-F8-4193-853-E-AE138-E7-E83-F1.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

https://i.postimg.cc/4yh5ZJ8M/6-C09-BA26-1-BAD-4-E6-D-9-CCC-211-E596-DCF37.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

[Kmelander]

Wow! That trans is wicked high in the tunnel.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[syborg tt]

Looks like it’s going to be a very cool project. However I like the green motor and it would make a great story when you open the hood.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[64G-lark]

I looked into three suspension manufactures ( Detroit Speed, TCI and Speedway Motors. I based my decisions on quality, features, capabilities and price. Ultimately I felt like the Speedway Motors G-comp offered the best bang for the buck. I opted for the Unser Edition. It uses a fabricated spindle that has a bolt in C-7 Corvette hub and wheel bearings, billet steering rack and sway bar mounts, aluminum coil over uprights that tie to the down bars and a aluminum crossbar that ties the uprights together. I have had good experience with Ridetech coil overs so I choose to use them front and back.

Kmelander It does look tall in the photo. Really not that bad. These cars had small tunnels. I’m shooting for a 2-3 degree angle on the engine and trans.

Thanks Marty it’s a different color for sure.

[bkswede]

Sorry to hear about your previous car, what a bummer! Look forward to seeing the progress on your Chevy II. What are your plans for rear ended and suspension?


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[64G-lark]

Thanks Brian, It all worked out in the end. I’m using Speedway Motors Unser edition rear suspension as well. Truck arm style with watts link. Narrowed 9” full floater rear. I was able to reuse my center section ( 3.70 gear with True-Trac 31 spline).

https://i.postimg.cc/sxSNm9Rv/6096-E62-F-E1-BC-43-D0-93-E3-8-F0-DF4-AE1-D09.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

https://i.postimg.cc/9QP3568L/60464-A0-A-D2-A4-4-EAD-82-C1-D6-B684140-EF1.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

https://i.postimg.cc/j5f6f0d2/0-FDDF183-F1-E5-41-A2-A995-FEC37-BAC03-BE.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

The rear end that was in the car was a 65' Chevy II 10 bolt 8.2" it had been upgraded to a 3.73 posi with 11" disc brakes. It has gone on to be reunited with a 65 car that was in need of a new rear.

https://i.postimg.cc/K8zMLkZ4/5112-AF2-A-2-C05-42-C9-BED9-58-EAA772-E860.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

[64G-lark]

Test fitting headers and fitting a steering shaft using Borgenson joints, the front joint I used a damper style, cut down a collapsible d shaped shaft.

https://i.postimg.cc/Gms1NYJJ/1-C274-AF6-3-F14-4-FD5-9110-BB0-B6989-DEF6.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

I found a damaged rear shock mount under the undercoating. I repaired it even though I wont be using it for anything other than a mounting hole for the new rear subframe. Must have had a rear shock come loose at some point and the bolt hole got torn away.

https://i.postimg.cc/zDWt9j9f/5-A1-E5-F7-F-F47-D-4665-8-D42-23737-C5-DDA82.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

https://i.postimg.cc/P562mF8S/54361-F4-B-0286-44-E2-8-DC4-A5-C103-DE1991.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

[64G-lark]

Once I was satisfied with the front sub frame, engine and trans mock up I pulled it back apart to close up all the holes in the firewall that I wouldn't be using.

https://i.postimg.cc/gkHM00cF/55-DF550-A-FD42-4-EFE-8926-BD14-A184-E6-B8.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)


https://i.postimg.cc/L4zDys1Y/F4191607-7813-498-F-A6-BF-8-AAC8-A87-DAF0.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

https://i.postimg.cc/mkGwbv0g/A5-CDAB94-C01-E-4-B60-87-ED-1-DD4-AB61-E307.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

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[64G-lark]

With all the unneeded holes filled I put it back together to get it back to roller. I loaded it on a trailer and headed to Wisconsin to take it to Randy Johnson at D & Z Customs. I elected to get some professional help to build the transmission tunnel, install DSE mini tubs, a full floor pan, trunk pans, etc. I have known Randy a few years, he is a straight shooter and he was able to fit me in his busy schedule.

Out with the old.

https://i.postimg.cc/FKrf53Nq/FDC90414-2-C80-455-A-AA77-4821-B5106-B98.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

https://i.postimg.cc/CLqVhPLf/04-DD33-B8-F211-4-B8-E-BA42-EF3-B6-BDC2-C33.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

https://i.postimg.cc/B6zzLVTF/7-C2-BAAE3-22-E4-47-CF-928-B-BBC236-D750-F3.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

The new to go in.

https://i.postimg.cc/SNXLsP5q/7-A440-D0-E-2028-4367-BF43-08-C7-BD9-F7-F0-D.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

New rear crossmember/ subframe for the watts link and coil overs mounts welded into the inside of the rear frame rails. You can see the gas filler location in this picture above the left rear inner wheel tub. More to come on that later.

https://i.postimg.cc/cCDPxzrP/DC9-A5-F3-E-3706-4-D88-ADCD-3085-FF4464-DF.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

[64G-lark]

Starting to go back together.

https://i.postimg.cc/7PFxjBFb/490-CAF28-C7-C5-48-BD-8183-4553-DFB39801.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

https://i.postimg.cc/FzMf26Hg/E0-D25476-6-D73-43-F0-8669-B28-BE0-B80-A17.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

Mini tubs in.
https://i.postimg.cc/nVgQjXGj/0605-B327-A487-4-FCB-803-A-102256-D4-CAD0.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

Custom panel for the trunk to provide clearance for watts link.
https://i.postimg.cc/MKQyZ7Rr/8-B38-C271-D9-F5-4575-BB7-D-AEFA2-E7315-BD.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

New panel behind the rear bumper.

https://i.postimg.cc/65C9KrKc/BEB13-A5-A-1175-4-E43-9721-7386073-F8-EA4.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

[64G-lark]

Randy was able to reuse the DSE sub frame connectors and torque boxes. Randy modified a Speedway Motors trans. Crossmember to mount to the DSE sub frame connectors.

https://i.postimg.cc/BQ4RX6V5/9-AEA9022-8-FD5-4-D08-9503-9-B8-EAB411-A01.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

https://i.postimg.cc/zfkZxgNq/9-B976-B48-82-AE-4-DBC-8291-36-D65-FA5283-B.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

https://i.postimg.cc/66dDWRY5/B77-B4399-7-DF4-4-A49-A3-DC-A1111-A416080.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

https://i.postimg.cc/T1qStMpW/A2-F8882-A-0-AA0-44-E9-B97-B-08-D00-C2-DABC8.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

[Gmachine1911]

Looks really good, nice progress! Your paint scheme reminds me of Smokey Yunick’s 68 Camaro Trans Am car. Keep the updates coming, always good to see another Nova on here.

[64G-lark]

Thanks Shane. I have watched your thread. Your skills are amazing and it cant believe how far you have come with your car.

[64G-lark]

One of the the issues I had to find a solution for was a gas filler location. The previous owner had the fender opening closed up and the filler neck came out in the trunk over the left rear wheel well. I didn’t like it being so far in the trunk and in a weird place to access. Having built a A-body car I decided to build it so the filler would come out the rear bumper behind the tag. The new mini tub eliminated the previous filler location. I told Randy what I wanted to do and asked if he could make a slight relief in the trunk floor.

https://i.postimg.cc/65MdS453/86-D8-D913-4-C57-4-D2-B-AC2-B-447-ED961-B15-E.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

https://i.postimg.cc/zDSwCPsT/FC621-FA8-C842-492-B-80-BF-4-A96-D4-F24152.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

[64G-lark]

Fabricated transmission tunnel.

https://i.postimg.cc/brcc69g4/7-BF1-DBE8-02-C2-483-A-8735-7-A7-E656-D01-F3.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

https://i.postimg.cc/GtF06TSt/7-CD7-F5-D4-3798-4509-81-DD-EB685-E7-FCCC0.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

I have lost count on how many times the engine transmission and the front sub frame have been in and out of this car.

https://i.postimg.cc/6TJ1z415/D1082042-4-F8-A-4003-81-A9-94-BA53912-DFC.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

Welded in the DSE clutch master mount. Welded up a DBW pedal mount, and vintage air mounts on the other side of the firewall.

https://i.postimg.cc/XqGG1W4Y/CAE2-EA07-709-C-4527-8-D82-5-B8-D390-E4-DC9.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

[bkswede]

Looks great! I used the DSE mount for the clutch master as well. Also. on mine, we welded up the extra space in the firewall just above the steering column, which really helped clean up the firewall as well.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[64G-lark]

Added a DSE fuel pump access panel to the trunk floor. I had the bottom of the car and trunk coated with a bed liner type coating. The inside just a satin black.

https://i.postimg.cc/bvxRLQLB/774-CE78-B-9861-4-BFF-8-A07-CD9637-B67-C8-E.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

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https://i.postimg.cc/MTp7zgby/B50-ABB4-F-088-F-4-FC4-914-E-D079-F9740160.jpg (https://postimg.cc/gw1XDS7J)

https://i.postimg.cc/3NcCsyf4/CFC95151-3-B19-4-EEB-8-CE7-F91-D12-D3-E39-E.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

Painted the firewall the body color.

https://i.postimg.cc/LXW125sp/3613-B2-D4-D227-490-E-8-AC6-03-EB0624-E9-D0.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

In this picture you can see the added crossmember that the truck arms are hinged off of. This crossmember goes from rocker to rocker and is also tied in to the DSE sub frame connectors.

https://i.postimg.cc/4yKp9t0y/096-C9-F7-B-95-BD-4-EED-8819-1395876-A885-B.jpg (https://postimg.cc/4HgKCKsR)

[64G-lark]

The front sub frame and suspension was all blown back apart for paint.

https://i.postimg.cc/NMbxxC1x/04-C09361-FC3-C-4687-84-F2-97-D54408-DB5-A.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

https://i.postimg.cc/k47cKPt4/1-DEBF1-DA-7230-434-C-8648-4008-DF86-FA37.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

Then back together temporarily. Randy and the guys at D & Z Customs did a great job with everything and gave me a solid foundation for everything I had planned. Not to mention doing it in a short amount of time. Thanks Randy.

https://i.postimg.cc/DySZvSPm/19-F24079-25-E2-4-CF2-9-B1-F-79-F8-F847-A9-A3.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

https://i.postimg.cc/YSKjytg0/BAD5-D605-7-F63-4155-A22-C-3-C6978-AA4-B16.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

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[64G-lark]

At this point I hauled the car back to my home shop to be blown apart again.

https://i.postimg.cc/d1h5KTRf/A94189-E2-95-AE-434-A-8-A1-C-0-BC7-E4-D431-EA.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

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I began attacking the time consuming stuff. I learned from my previous build to use Nicop for brake lines. I actually enjoy making them. I try to minimize the joints and I use stainless clamps to hold them in place. I was able to make the brake line from the proportioning valve to the rear axle in two pieces. Another little idea I came up with is to use heat shrink tubing on the lines were the clamps are. You just have to remember to slide it on before flaring your last fitting.
I used Banjo to A&N fittings for the steering rack as they provide the most clearance and the ability to clock them at any angle.

https://i.postimg.cc/52HnSSq1/57-B9-A6-D9-B711-42-F1-ACAC-B2-D8913-A5-F08.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

https://i.postimg.cc/cCXXXDb1/062-FA5-F1-2-AE5-4001-AFAD-858-BF2-BD0-C45.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)
Not the best picture but this is a example of a line I made with the heat shrink on at the clamp locations.

https://i.postimg.cc/hjqSnhpp/22-F250-F7-5-D5-A-4-BA9-AF80-3562-A4-A9422-F.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

https://i.postimg.cc/153WfQ88/B48-BC035-4425-4-CAA-AF0-B-1-AC448-AA70-A6.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

I’m using Speedway Motors Headers made by Dynatech. They have 1 7/8” primary tubes and O2 bungs. They are a mild steel header and fit great. I did not like the three bolt flange on the collectors so I cut and ground the welds to remove them. Then changed to stainless steel V-band type instead. Then I sent them off to M & R coatings in Kodak, TN. To get coated. They do great work at a reasonable price if your looking to have any exhaust components coated.

Interesting story on the headers. When I ordered the suspension and subframe, Speedway was out of the headers and I was told they were on backorder. After checking for weeks on end they told me the demand wasn’t there and they wouldn’t be getting any more. I tried going straight to the source but minimum order qtys and Speedway owning the design kept that from happening. I looked at the Church Boys Racing Headers and at Ultimate. But they didn’t work for my application. I twisted Speedways arm a little and they ordered five more headers and I got a set at half the price for my trouble. So if you need LS headers for a 62-67 Chevy II they have four more at half price. Here’s a link for anyone interested.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/G-Comp-1962-67-Chevy-II-Nova-LS-V8-Headers-Plain-Finish,205590.html

https://i.postimg.cc/tJ5m8RYj/575-EC8-A9-EDF9-4442-B683-2817995-DEE8-D.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

https://i.postimg.cc/4NYzDNKQ/16-D762-C1-1315-4-EEA-AE26-B03-B952913-A1.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

[WSSix]

The car looks great. Love the paint scheme. Keep up the great work!

[64G-lark]

Thanks Trey. I see your in Ga. I've heard they have a great Cars and Coffee scene there. I was in Franklin, NC until about four years ago. Hope to move back in a few years.

I am using a Ricks restomod fuel tank. I opted for the internal corner pickups. As I mentioned earlier my fuel fill location needed to be changed. Randy was able to get me a heavy walled stainless filler neck that was welded into the new location. I was concerned I might have some fuel slosh issues so to counter this I made a few things to deal with this. First the fill tube is extended into the tank several inches, second the end in the tank has a reverse facing piece of metal that acts like a dam in the lower third of the filler. Fuel goes in like a ramp but fuel trying to go out is partially blocked. I used a short piece of hose between the tank neck and the actual filler that is a 89-97 Ford Ranger upper neck. I chose this because it had two features I wanted. First it has a nozzle flap like the late model cars and second it’s a tube in tube design again to deal with any fuel slosh. The last thing I did was create a internal flap that is hinged on the end of the tube inside the tank. Probably overkill.

https://i.postimg.cc/fWK2zLR4/F64-BCA70-BADC-466-E-9-C33-C7-BA14-E39-A72.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

https://i.postimg.cc/4yJWvCwF/CC3-C35-ED-5-A20-4565-BEA6-DCACABA1-BCA8.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

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[64G-lark]

I was real excited when this crate arrived.

https://i.postimg.cc/BbVn534q/01-F7-F768-6049-4-BC2-BD66-8-C1-EB0-DD11-F2.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

This is a Blueprint engines 427 LS. 625HP and 565 ft. Lbs of torque. I’m using their long block so I could select the external items to fit my needs. Its a LS3 based stroker that has an all forged bottom end, Mahle forged pistons and rings, ARP rod bolts, Melling oil pump, and 12 degree 255 cylinder heads that rotates the valve angle from the 15 degree angle of the standard LS3 to similar to the LS7.

The old and the new.
https://i.postimg.cc/TYBPpTt0/FA5-AB675-A383-4-C97-B248-A4440-E6-FA364.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

The one thing I missed during mock up that caused lots of head scratching and some challenges to overcome was the oil pan. I had a Holley 302-2 oil pan I used to mock up and it fit great. The longer stroke of the new engine didn’t clear the pan. The new Holley pan 302-3 is good for up to 4.00” stroke but I am at 4.125” stroke. The original Holley pan 302-1 would work for the engine, but the sump is too deep for my liking and hung below the cross member. In addition the front of the pan was to deep for my steering rack. So after looking into lots of oil pans I selected the Mast Motorsports stroker pan. I prefer the cast pans and it had all the clearance I needed or so I thought. For those studying oil pans here is a comparison to the 302-2 Holley pan.

https://i.postimg.cc/3wTJFn5D/14-D2-D395-D418-447-A-A431-35-FE7-A60-CD1-A.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)
https://i.postimg.cc/bYCrfxbK/EE960024-E51-E-40-FD-9-E61-EF8-DC4-F1-C06-A.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)
https://i.postimg.cc/VkyYzDNH/0114-CF31-7-AB8-4277-A127-E1931077-C09-B.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)
The Mast pans have those kick outs in just the right places to clear the rods. I am using their pickup and windage tray as well, all designed for the longer stroke. The only thing I didn’t like about the pan is the cast in baffles but no trap doors for oil control. I was using the Improved Racing baffle trap door assembly in the Holley pan and I really liked it.

[64G-lark]

Thanks Andyd, I like lots of details.

When I test fit the engine and the Mast pan I created a new clearance issue. The left front portion of the pan didn’t clear a steering rack fitting. I had to cut out a small notch and create a piece to go back in place to clear it.

Before shot.
https://i.postimg.cc/4dhGCcgT/0-FAE1-A92-E760-46-F7-958-B-75-B83-F794264.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

After shot

https://i.postimg.cc/Y9P5bCGy/CBC3-B883-A847-41-EC-B541-13-DA3-AFC31-C6.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

https://i.postimg.cc/kXPJmTGY/BD91-DA01-2683-4-FA3-9-EBE-42-E554-A6424-D.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

https://i.postimg.cc/GpLnpNnz/CC257344-345-F-4-A30-B121-BE36924-BA8-F1.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

https://i.postimg.cc/7LFc2Qpp/9458-FFA6-94-C9-4703-959-A-517815-DCFF63.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

Next up was to create a trap door baffle for the pan. I started by cutting out the cast baffle in the pan. Then I started with a Improved Racing baffle for a Holley pan. The first issue is the Mast pickup is clocked 180 degrees opposite of the Holley so this meant the lower part of the trap door had to rotate 180 degrees as well.
Here is what I started with.

https://i.postimg.cc/pdSv1Z3Z/D232-B62-D-E54-E-4-C35-B62-E-3007-A0-F3-B7-C9.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)


Here is the Mast baffle laid over the Improved Racing trap door.

https://i.postimg.cc/fWqqTT0f/80740-E23-8132-4056-945-F-52-AB2-D9-E28-B1.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

The pickup difference. Mast on the left, Holley on the right.

https://i.postimg.cc/sxLTnwRN/1-C5939-DC-C9-F3-4-FDA-9-B91-F98-AC39-F2122.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

And here is what I ended up with. It took way to much time to make this piece.

https://i.postimg.cc/htSKJh99/86-D53-BA0-4-A0-C-4976-A412-B9-A3-DC28-CAFB.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

While fitting the pickup I decided to make the little hold down to use the second bolt on the oil pump. You can buy these but I was ready to button up the pan and didn’t want to wait so I made this one out of some scrap metal.
https://i.postimg.cc/CKBXdV6G/2966131-A-57-D1-4-E32-AEF7-A0241-A005-D6-E.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

Before buttoning it all up I ran the Pan, and baffle through the dish washer to give it a good cleaning. Since it was not oily the wife approved. She has gotten used to parts coming into house for various reasons over the years.

[64G-lark]

The Speedway motor mount plates that attach to the block position the motor really well but they are made of steel and felt very heavy. The other thing I didn’t like was they used some separate spacers to position the actual motor mounts. This is just a pet peave but I hate have to line up bolts, spacer, motor mounts, and engine plates. So I decided to make some lighter weight ones out of 6061 Aluminum to save weight and incorporate the spacers in the design so I don’t have to worry about them falling out and rolling off when taking things in and out. Also saved 2.8 lbs ! My oldest son is a CNC machinist and enjoyed the challenge. He did a great job. This is probably the fifth or sixth set of LS mounts he’s made for me for various projects.

https://i.postimg.cc/GttMJ66D/161-D1-B10-5-A86-4-AA6-82-DA-BAA8-CBA8-C13-E.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

https://i.postimg.cc/9MJ89cgV/C1014370-F47-B-4819-971-B-A72-C15735414.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

https://i.postimg.cc/k4jJ9CVx/06-F15-B68-DA2-F-4-E3-A-A308-E30-FD60-F2-FCF.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

[64G-lark]

I was able to reuse my flywheel clutch and throw out bearing as they didn’t even have fifty mile on them. I am using a GM LS7. I checked the flywheel for runout and checked the bell housing alignment using a Bowler test fixture.

https://i.postimg.cc/hGL82yJF/EB662-E45-C036-4-B22-9-DDC-90-FAE9-DB9-F45.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

https://i.postimg.cc/d0PmmPVm/A945-BADD-8-FDA-4-C9-E-B18-B-0-F49-F589-E7-E7.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

I made a little trip to the other side of Illinois to pick up this.

https://i.postimg.cc/gjnY27R1/C5-D79-FDB-14-BB-48-C5-97-D8-F5-A6-DC3-ACB95.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

Tremec T-56 Magnum-F six speed from Bowler Transmissions. Thanks Mark and Tom.
https://i.postimg.cc/T24d4Rvx/E7-B34-E82-DA53-4836-B273-33517110-AE0-A.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

Using a Summit Racing SFI harmonic balancer (4th gen F-body spacing)with ARP bolt.

https://i.postimg.cc/HW4Krz3h/5-F4470-A3-E236-4790-AE87-272-BC48-EF88-C.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

All bolted together for the final install I hope.

https://i.postimg.cc/NfF4QknT/DCA20445-F33-E-4295-995-E-19-F02-C78953-B.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

Going to install the engine, transmission, subframe and All suspension as one assembly. So Time for some front brakes. I’m using Wilwood Forged Superlite 6R 14” Corvette front brakes.

https://i.postimg.cc/HnRTct9n/5-BB7-C726-6802-4-B2-B-A2-E5-7-A9-BD7771918.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

My oldest son came to the rescue again and machined me some custom aluminum spacers for the caliper mounting bolts. They use a special shouldered bolt. My spindle ears are different than the factory Corvette spindles.

https://i.postimg.cc/Qdrr2C62/5-FD09-D4-F-ACE9-4-A3-F-8663-00-FFD987180-C.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

[bkswede]

Great write up and I love the attention to detail and ingenuity... going to be an awesome ride! What are plans for intake, injectors, etc. for the LS7? Also, what are you using for ECU?

Brian


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[64G-lark]

Thanks Brian I am going to run a LS3 intake and injectors as my engine is LS3 based. I am planning for a Holley Terminator Max ECU.

[bkswede]

Thanks Brian I am going to run a LS3 intake and injectors as my engine is LS3 based. I am planning for a Holley Terminator Max ECU.


Makes sense... should’ve caught that when you noted the 4.125” stroke in your earlier post. The Terminator Max is a great ECU... really capable and affordable.


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[WSSix]

Yes, we do have a large Caffeine and Octane show every month just down the street from me. Covid hasn't really slowed it down. I'm not sure if that's a good thing or not, lol. I've been staying home typically. Let us know if you ever make it down for the show. Rustomatic(Paul) and Che70velle(Scott) are in the area, too.

[64G-lark]

Good to know Trey. I will have to check out sometime when I’m down that way.

The assembled front ready to go back in.

https://i.postimg.cc/vB8d7XsV/59-D54-F90-CB23-4-CD8-8391-667-F333-F7-DC7.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

Some tape on the firewall for some protection along with some moving blankets on the engine. Don’t need paint scars at this point!

https://i.postimg.cc/qvghwXpW/5-F27113-D-C2-BD-46-ED-8406-A5316553-CDEB.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

https://i.postimg.cc/2SJqKb6y/5-C962-A1-C-D98-D-4-ADA-8-C7-F-203115-D502-A9.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

I coaxed my wife, Robin to come out and help me balance and line up everything for assembly.

https://i.postimg.cc/pdHvrRck/ACF017-B9-67-D8-4-A7-D-A3-C6-F0-B2-EF8-CDE4-A.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

https://i.postimg.cc/fT8SYgQx/162387-B5-54-F6-436-D-BD0-E-05-FA3-F7-D99-B7.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

[syborg tt]

What an inspiring thread. I love all the details that you are sharing. However, the parts in the dishwasher is definitely a “Win” for me.


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[214Chevy]

Very nice. I like everything you're doing. Keep up the good work.

[64G-lark]

Thanks Marty. I spent a few nights looking over your Camaro build. Awesome project and love your details. Especially the blue tape :) .

Thanks 214Chevy

[64G-lark]

Picture of the brake and clutch pedals. I had to drill a few holes to improve the looks and decrease the weight. :) The clutch pedal required some changes . I raised the clutch pick-up point higher to better align with the clutch master cylinder this caused me to remove part of the clutch stop arm. I cut back the area to reduce the thickness to allow the yoke to go around then beefed up the welds. I use Wilwood yokes for the brake and clutch as they are aluminum and just work well.

https://i.postimg.cc/JnKNLscP/16783-D31-954-F-4-B2-A-8-A68-845-D8127875-A.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

https://i.postimg.cc/HxTwRw5r/FD81-D26-B-437-B-4006-8-D3-D-C7-DBB9724962.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

I am using a compact 3/4” Wilwood clutch master 260-13619. It is setup for a 3/8-24 Banjo fitting.

I am going manual brakes and would normally use a Wilwood master cylinder for the brakes. I have used them in the past and my only complaint is the lid. I guess it’s a pet peeve, but I don’t like to use tools to remove a lid to check the fluid level. The mounting location is very close to the left valve cover so I researched an alternative.
I ended up using Dorman M39736 that was used on 87-95’ Dodge and Chrysler vehicles. It has the 7/8” bore size I wanted, its compact and aluminum. The side benefit is its cheap ($39.00) and readily available. The hole spacing is just a little tighter than GM, but its Easy to open up a bit to fit. I used a universal pushrod from Wilwood. I know the risk is low but I always think about what could happen if the rod came out of the master cylinder. I weld a washer to the rod and then drill and tap the back of the master cylinder to accept a washer that has a hole smaller than the washer I welded on the rod. No chance of it coming out!

https://i.postimg.cc/x8CKT96Y/C0-D41213-F5-FB-4-FC3-B961-C9-D926610-D2-E.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

https://i.postimg.cc/RCs7pn00/3-A1-D9738-D1-AE-4-EC4-BFC1-08-F3-F92-B321-F.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

https://i.postimg.cc/Fs9yFTj6/472-CB888-990-B-449-C-9-B49-EC613043-FACA.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

I’m using a Wilwood proportioning valve and I had to cut the mounting bracket and extend it some to fit.

[64G-lark]

New wheels arrived after a long wait to be made. Had to throw them on to see how they looked. Weld RT-S S77 18 x 9.5 front and 18 x 10 rear. Thanks to Randy Johnson at D & Z Customs.

https://i.postimg.cc/44ScQk87/3286-B150-ACC6-4548-95-E5-EE091059-CBF9.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

https://i.postimg.cc/rmhrHvMH/CFFF27-BB-BFD4-40-BB-9567-1-E94-CCF8793-D.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

https://i.postimg.cc/4d785B8P/96-C3-B10-A-245-E-477-D-BA50-354157-D2-EA90.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

[TomM]

Nice work...

Question...is there a reason for mounting the prop valve backwards?

T,

[64G-lark]

Thanks Tom, I would love to see the pictures in your build threads.

Good catch. I should have mentioned that earlier. Yes a couple reasons. The port configuration on the master cylinder is the main reason. The rear port of the master cylinder is for the front brakes. The other reasons are to make access to the adjuster knob easy, and I didn't like the brake light sender and wires sitting front and center.

[TomM]

Makes sense. I usually just plug the switch. Never have used it....

Photobucket screwed a bunch of people. I just have never had a chance to go back and reload the hundreds of pictures I have....

T,

[bkswede]

I really like the wheels - will look sick on the car. What are you thinking for tires? We had to modify the Wilwood proportioning valve mount on mine, too, to clear the clutch master. Great progress!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[WSSix]

That's a good looking wheel. The colors will work well against the gold.

[64G-lark]

Thanks Brian, I’m still undecided on tires. I have thought about going 285/30R18 square or 295/30R/18 and 255/35R/18. Brands are limited and I get torn between a good street-able tire vs a more track oriented tire. I don’t trailer and like to drive so I dont want a tire that’s to loud, and can handle rain if you get caught in it. Also concerned about overall height. Been trying to stay around a 25” tall tire.
Falken Azeris FK510 might be a good compromise in the 295/255 sizes. Bridgestone has the Potenza RE-71 or SO4 pole position avliable in the 285 size. The other would be the Contential extreme contact sport in the 285. Any body have opinions or recommendations?

Thanks Trey. My thoughts as well. I think the Black centers will play off the black roof.

[WSSix]

I'd focus on which one has the size you need. I've heard nothing but good things about the brands you've mentioned. I'd also recommend looking at General G-Max and Dunlop Direzza

[tommycomfort]

Wow! Glad to be following along now. Keep up the great work.

[64G-lark]

Thanks Tom, I appreciate your help and the other folks I have met through you.

[64G-lark]

Couple of pictures of the rear suspension assembled at full droop. The Watts link has four positions it can be mounted to the rear end for different ride heights. The link bars and lower shock mount also have multiple holes for different ride heights and adjustments.

https://i.postimg.cc/qMdmsc2c/74298-C06-2-A07-4-CE6-AF27-2-C680-BBEE9-F2.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

https://i.postimg.cc/ryGGLBtW/23-A4-CA1-D-CC9-D-4478-A745-8-E809-B977-BC9.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

[64G-lark]

While working with the Nicop for the brake lines I made a crossover for the two back steam ports. I drilled and tapped the factory block off ports to accept the line.
https://i.postimg.cc/G2W3rMfb/A1494434-B614-4-D65-81-A1-77564301-FFD8.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)


Intake, throttle body and fuel rails installed. Working on the front accessory drive. Using the Holley low mount with fourth gen Camaro spacing. The integral power steering pump reservoir will fit but cant get the lid off without unbolting the crossbar. I am going to have to come up with a remote mount solution.

https://i.postimg.cc/d3pTsr7m/57230-D4-D-4706-4-CAE-B379-8-F46-F0350291.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

https://i.postimg.cc/x1ff0N6N/DE039-DF4-5-F67-4944-8176-E8-DCF1-D25-B91.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

[64G-lark]

Setting up the drill press to drill the the pump housing 13/16 so it could be tapped for 7/8-14 threads for a -10AN fitting. Also chamfered the leading surface for the O-ring. The port is blocked off below the point for the drill and tap so as to not get any chips in the pump.

https://i.postimg.cc/yYX64yyz/AF170382-6085-42-C2-A466-737-C9-F3240-D4.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

https://i.postimg.cc/KYsvpcrk/B704-B3-AE-A642-47-D9-933-B-350-DEA6-FF5-CC.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

[64G-lark]

I have seen a number of cars at autocross and track events have issues with power steering reservoirs leaking fluid and over temping. Since I am going remote I wanted a good solution. I am using a Chase Bays triple baffled tank. Very nice, quality piece. The space I wanted the tank in, is very tight between bay bars, valve covers, upper shock mounts, etc. It took several attempts to come up with a mounting bracket, hose and fittings to make it work. I made the bracket out of 1/4” thick 1.5“ x 1.5” aluminum angle. Mounted with existing bolts.

https://i.postimg.cc/ry0h5GRR/6-EB04-C62-1-A81-4579-B010-C4-F11-B00297-D.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)


https://i.postimg.cc/yNLfyvTc/44-A6-CC8-E-66-F9-43-B1-80-EA-73079620-C49-B.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

https://i.postimg.cc/yNj4Rm5S/6-CD7-D000-449-D-422-F-A4-F2-1-D0-F5-BB5609-B.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

https://i.postimg.cc/9M4BtV0H/E546-E865-B902-46-B2-B52-A-480-D63417-B84.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

https://i.postimg.cc/9M4BtV0H/E546-E865-B902-46-B2-B52-A-480-D63417-B84.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

https://i.postimg.cc/43xPypTd/016045-F4-16-C3-4933-BBE7-D6-E86-AEED769.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

[64G-lark]

Something else I wanted to address are bump stops for the rear end. I know the coilovers have bumpers to prevent bottoming out the shocks but this is designed to protect the shocks. I have seen multiple times guys break drive shafts and dent floorpans from the suspension hitting. I made some brackets with nuts welded on the backside that I could plug weld to the frame. I then used some pre fabricated brackets from Allstar performance. I welded a mounting plate to them so they could be bolted on and some Energy Suspension stops. I set the distance by jacking the rear end up and determining the height I could move up to before the rear end made contact with the floor pan. The stops themselves will contact the truck arms just ahead of the rear housing. This mounting arrangement will allow adjustments if needed and I use different stops if desired to cushion the compression.

https://i.postimg.cc/50js7LPG/B1-C3-FB64-66-D1-4751-AA4-E-2-AC56990-DD79.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

https://i.postimg.cc/v8J0h15q/9-E8043-AE-AAC2-4-C24-826-F-C8530-C624661.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

https://i.postimg.cc/sxhwyyC4/44-FE656-D-ECA9-4586-8-E78-A0-F8859920-C1.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

https://i.postimg.cc/QtP0RCwM/D0-B31-EBA-B434-451-E-BD8-D-770-EC6-E46481.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

https://i.postimg.cc/mgR8x0X7/19910-DB2-8264-41-E1-8-DE4-7-A664615293-A.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

[Beechy]

Mark........nice parts and fabrication going on here.....however that SHORT -10 hose is gonna tear the reservoir off your bracket due to engine movement.
Reclock the 90* on the bottom of the reservoir facing rearward, new hose going 8" then u-turn forward 10" towards the pump into a new 45*.


Happy TG.

[WSSix]

I agree with Jim on the supply hose being too short. Don't forget to use a good cooler for the PS fluid to keep temps under control.

[64G-lark]

Thanks Jim and Trey, I will make up a longer hose and see if I can make it fit. I was concerned about the short length myself. I considered making a bracket that attached to the engine. Not sure how much movement I will have. I will be running a cooler.

[64G-lark]

I was impressed with how Kevin_l configured his mount for his fuse panel and incorporated a clutch pedal stop and a switch to know the clutch is depressed. I shamelessly built a similar panel out of some scrap aluminum I had laying around. I added some 1/2” bushing to the rear to space it off the firewall. My youngest son Chase took it to his high school welding class and tig welded the bushing to the back side. I wanted to mount it without drilling any new holes so I welded some bolts to the back side of a bracket I made that mounts the clutch master cylinder and it will use one of the screws from the pass through on the front wiring harness. The clutch stop is adjustable as is the switch. The switch itself is a 2002 Camaro. Thanks for the idea Kevin.

https://i.postimg.cc/MKXKgy3T/F0041971-C1-D1-45-C3-A7-DF-758-FE6052972.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

https://i.postimg.cc/wxwjWWVZ/7-CB3-A956-5041-4-B00-8363-4600-F8298-C12.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

https://i.postimg.cc/76VZrXyC/D1174-CE2-37-FA-4221-AC7-A-82-FD0-B6-D06-BA.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

https://i.postimg.cc/8czPpW1Z/C4224-E51-2-D69-45-E4-BC19-EC4858230-A1-A.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

[kbclamper]

I was impressed with how Kevin_l configured his mount for his fuse panel and incorporated a clutch pedal stop and a switch to know the clutch is depressed. I shamelessly built a similar panel out of some scrap aluminum I had laying around. I added some 1/2” bushing to the rear to space it off the firewall. My youngest son Chase took it to his high school welding class and tig welded the bushing to the back side. I wanted to mount it without drilling any new holes so I welded some bolts to the back side of a bracket I made that mounts the clutch master cylinder and it will use one of the screws from the pass through on the front wiring harness. The clutch stop is adjustable as is the switch. The switch itself is a 2002 Camaro. Thanks for the idea Kevin.

https://i.postimg.cc/MKXKgy3T/F0041971-C1-D1-45-C3-A7-DF-758-FE6052972.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

https://i.postimg.cc/wxwjWWVZ/7-CB3-A956-5041-4-B00-8363-4600-F8298-C12.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

https://i.postimg.cc/76VZrXyC/D1174-CE2-37-FA-4221-AC7-A-82-FD0-B6-D06-BA.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

https://i.postimg.cc/8czPpW1Z/C4224-E51-2-D69-45-E4-BC19-EC4858230-A1-A.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)
what gas pedal and mount is that? pedal covers?

[64G-lark]

kbclamper,
The pedal is GM 10379038, the mount is a fabricated. The pedal covers are Clayton Machine Works.

[bkswede]

Looks awesome and great idea!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[kbclamper]

kbclamper,
The pedal is GM 10379038, the mount is a fabricated. The pedal covers are Clayton Machine Works.

thanks. i have a 63 nova build im bringing back from the dead.

[mc1984ss]

I like your setup with the proportioning valve mounted by the master. Were those lines prebent or did you bend them yourself? That's the exact same master I am using. Thanks in advance

[kevin_l]

Car is looking great! Love your attention to detail. One note on that clutch switch, I am using a relay also, I wasn't sure how many amps that small switch could hold up to. Might get a way with running it in series with the started solenoid however I am only using the switch to trigger the relay. And the relay is only powered from the solenoid wire so it is not trigger every time I shift. Only in crank position.

[64G-lark]

Kbclamper, No problem, I hope it helps you out.

Mc1984ss, I made all the lines except the two short ones from the master cylinder to the proportioning valve. They came with the port. Valve kit. If I recall correctly I reversed them and tweaked them a little. I extended the mounting bracket.

Kevin_l , Thanks for the kind words and for the information, that helps a lot.

[syborg tt]

So quick question. How do you like the Nicop brake lines. I was considering building my lines with Nicop but ended up using steel lines ?


While working with the Nicop for the brake lines I made a crossover for the two back steam ports. I drilled and tapped the factory block off ports to accept the line.
https://i.postimg.cc/G2W3rMfb/A1494434-B614-4-D65-81-A1-77564301-FFD8.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

]

[64G-lark]

Marty, I really like them. I forget who, but someone on the boards turned me onto them on my last project. I was struggling with stainless steel. I have never used normal steel lines due to the corrosion issues, but the stainless steel lines are much harder to work with. Stainless is hard on flaring tools, doesn’t seal as well, work hardens, and is pretty much one shot and your done. If you decide to use it I would recommend getting a good brand ( SUR&R). There are a lot of cheap brands on Amazon that don’t have consistent wall thickness and some are higher copper content.

[Spiffav8]

Incredible thread Mark. Really enjoying all the details and photos. These are the things we never get to see and appreciate when looking at a finished car. Thank You!

:captain:

[64G-lark]

Thanks Curtis, I enjoy the detailed threads as well. Lots of inspiration and ideas on here.

[64G-lark]

My original core support was in horrible shape. It had been hacked up, and patched to many times. I ordered a Goodmark replacement. The opening in the stock support is fairly small at 21” wide. I have seen a lot of folks just cut the opening larger, but it just never looks finished. I also wanted to fill a lot of holes I don’t plan to use and get rid of the dimpled area for the original radiator cap.

I laid out a plan to cut out sections to increase the opening while retaining the original flange. I was able to increase the opening to 24” wide. I’m still working on my welding skills but overall I was pleased.

https://i.postimg.cc/Y9vBZLGJ/7859216-C-39-F1-4-CC4-8-A4-D-70-B6-EEF201-CC.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

https://i.postimg.cc/g047Ycbm/DDDEE280-E525-4104-B637-F73-EEF87425-C.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

https://i.postimg.cc/MTTFXkzR/36-DC7693-8246-4-A63-8-E1-E-2-EFF1008-F037.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

https://i.postimg.cc/XvnhSGhs/63-EA75-AF-2289-4-A45-970-B-FD89-E492-F159.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

[64G-lark]

It was a little intimidating to cut up a brand new core support.

https://i.postimg.cc/cLy2h5cy/4-EC93-C0-F-9-E97-43-AD-B22-A-9-D4-EE5-AB1-B2-E.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

https://i.postimg.cc/JzNg2cTy/59-C52-E30-798-D-457-E-A37-C-06426-AF9-E08-D.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

https://i.postimg.cc/76sjNHKm/D912-E4-FD-F6-E6-4-F63-B9-D2-0-FE9369-DABED.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

https://i.postimg.cc/j2B9G80f/10-D2514-D-1-BE4-4941-8-A70-5535-F19-D550-A.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

https://i.postimg.cc/KvgCnyBD/1-F5-E27-E8-7-BC0-4500-B9-B9-852-D10346520.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

https://i.postimg.cc/y6GwgNgN/044-A16-AF-4349-4-E0-E-8570-AD3132-FBAE55.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

[214Chevy]

Nice work...

[ScotI]

Looks good to me.

[syborg tt]

Marty, I really like them. I forget who, but someone on the boards turned me onto them on my last project. I was struggling with stainless steel. I have never used normal steel lines due to the corrosion issues, but the stainless steel lines are much harder to work with. Stainless is hard on flaring tools, doesn’t seal as well, work hardens, and is pretty much one shot and your done. If you decide to use it I would recommend getting a good brand ( SUR&R). There are a lot of cheap brands on Amazon that don’t have consistent wall thickness and some are higher copper content.

Thank you, Thank you

I might grab some from my local Napa store tonight just to play with it and see how it bends. I am starting to enjoy bending brake lines.

[syborg tt]

https://i.postimg.cc/8czPpW1Z/C4224-E51-2-D69-45-E4-BC19-EC4858230-A1-A.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

So I have stared at this and stared and this over and over. I put a seat in my car and looked at my wiring and noticed that when my left foot is
resting (road trip) it would actually lay right on top of the harness. So I moved all my wire to the side to keep them out of harms way. I have also
consider putting a dead pedal with some dimple die holes on the left to rest my foot. I will try to find a picture of what I am talking about. You
also have to remember we use our left foot to push ourselves back in the seat when when we are driving spiritly off the race track.


http://garagescene.net/_data/i/upload/2020/09/11/20200911145540-49830f61-me.jpg

[64G-lark]

214 Chevy and ScotI thanks for the compliments.

Marty, The wires are stretched out down and across the floor of the car at the moment. Once I get them correctly routed the will come out the fuse panel and loop up and over to the dash area with the exception of a few going to the rear of the car. I have actually contemplated flipping the fuse box so they come out the top.

I finished up the pulleys and the serpentine belt.

https://i.postimg.cc/QtschZnT/EADC00-AB-7890-42-FA-88-CA-16-E22-F09373-F.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

Then it was time to test fit the core support and mock up the front end. It’s still in primer until i see what other mods will be needed. It will all come back a part a few more times yet. Took several attempts of shimming the fender supports to get the spacing close. I have been test fitting the radiator and figuring out a mounting strategy. The original radiators bolted directly to the core support with no form of isolation or vibration control. I want to come up with a better solution. If anyone has some mounting options to share I would like to see them.

https://i.postimg.cc/t4Khvx3D/72-C541-E5-9-AB8-4-E64-86-FD-D7-CE866-C5-CB0.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

https://i.postimg.cc/FK00MHGv/35-D4-DB6-A-565-D-4-E18-BFBF-C6-F7062-EC0-A1.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

[WSSix]

What about a simple cradle support for the radiator? GM used this design on later builds for many cars. I'm sure you could find brackets from other models you could integrate. Try Corvette since it used narrow straps on top and not a full width cover. Going this route will help with finding isolators that fit the brackets. Hopefully, it'll fit the radiator too.

Keep up the good work

[bkswede]

Attached are a couple of photos of what Stielow used to mount the radiator on one of his recent builds, incorporating rubber isolators on top and bottom. I saw this after we had already fabricated mounts for mine; otherwise, would have tried to do something like this. The bottom of mine sits on rubber pads on the core support mount and the top sides are bolted to the core support.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210206/0b6f9d7445aa7bcc8abe9cb5db627f9d.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210206/f844a011b05af55dbd68010592098c05.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[bkswede]

Attached are a couple of photos of what Stielow used to mount the radiator on one of his recent builds, incorporating rubber isolators on top and bottom. I saw this after we had already fabricated mounts for mine; otherwise, would have tried to do something like this. The bottom of mine sits on rubber pads on the core support mount and the top sides are bolted to the core support.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210206/0b6f9d7445aa7bcc8abe9cb5db627f9d.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210206/f844a011b05af55dbd68010592098c05.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[64G-lark]

Thanks Brian, I like the mounting ideas. Your car is approaching the finish line and looks great.

[64G-lark]

I have been sidelined with other things lately, but managed to get back to radiator mounting and core support modifications. I fabbed up some lower radiator mounts that bolt to the core support. I used riv. nuts to create the mounting threads. I cut a triangular opening on the left side to create a opening for the air intake. The area to the left of the radiator opening poised some issues due to the recesses and the way the sheet metal was formed. I wanted to use this area to mount the remote power steering reservoir. I decided to cut it out and make the panel flat, but have plans to further modify it to make more room.

https://i.postimg.cc/NfWvJxkc/B3-E126-FF-6692-4-D6-B-9-F94-C718-E6-D54-AD3.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

https://i.postimg.cc/HsJC9N5z/DB164903-07-E6-4213-9196-34132-B59359-A.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

https://i.postimg.cc/7L48DYRt/EAF7-B014-C50-A-402-F-BFFB-E51517-E10-CDF.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

https://i.postimg.cc/cLwyV8F8/E5894-B63-17-D6-41-A4-805-C-738-B729-E1797.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

[64G-lark]

Put in a little more time on the core support today. I created a recessed area to accommodate the remote power steering reservoir.

https://i.postimg.cc/K8Jtzjpg/FB4-DFF4-D-DDB1-4338-A52-D-5-F977-C5-BC577.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

https://i.postimg.cc/GpfYFNCL/F92-E8169-E24-C-4-CAB-809-B-073-EC686-E748.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

https://i.postimg.cc/1tNFJHmp/38-A092-C3-CBCB-4-AF8-A947-0-E83028-EBF09.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

https://i.postimg.cc/pL2DRzCH/A84228-B8-D29-A-42-E8-9-DED-4376-B6-F8-F8-D9.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

[bkswede]

Looks great! Have you figured out what you’re doing with your cold air intake/filter? Not a lot of space in the engine bay for it...


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[214Chevy]

Nice fab on the core support for the p/s reservoir.

[1965NOVA]

Awesome build and thanks for all the ideas. Was wondering what steering column you have installed in your car?

[64G-lark]

Thanks Brian, I am working on a plan to route CAI to the left side. The hole I cut in the core support is going to provide a air intake. I am building a screen to cover the opening. I started with some aluminum angle 3/4 x 3/4 that iI ripped one side down to create a recess for the screen. I cut and welded the pieces together added the screen then capped it with 3/4” wide flat stock. Here are a few pictures that might make more sense.

Thanks 214Chevy.

1965NOVA, The column is a Ididit brand.

https://i.postimg.cc/Hs1Sc7FQ/3723-EFF9-D238-4968-8-DC3-21-A3-BC99-A3-DE.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

https://i.postimg.cc/RV1gcZz2/00-EEA765-9834-4-D7-D-81-AB-A4-A14-CA41-D80.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

https://i.postimg.cc/VkYD4Pfv/CBF02998-2722-4-E37-A265-C9035355-B5-EE.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

https://i.postimg.cc/kgfwpYGc/3-ECC7-C41-02-A0-4-D3-D-ADA4-356300-A0-C8-FB.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

[bkswede]

Looks great! That should work nicely!


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[64G-lark]

Been pulled away for a bit and haven’t had much time, I have the core support in primer and mocked up the overflow tank, PS tank, air intake screen and the lower radiator mounts. Still have the upper mount to complete.

https://i.postimg.cc/2yxDR8c3/30-F7889-D-1-ECB-40-CA-99-E5-4-DC04-B1-CA036.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

https://i.postimg.cc/44vZhBfZ/8659-E6-B3-404-C-4-C64-8-D73-90-D21-E822-E89.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

https://i.postimg.cc/wj49jM6m/4-A64-DF97-37-DF-4609-8671-77-A5-FEC4-A921.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

https://i.postimg.cc/qvvkrydr/D125326-F-3-B3-B-4312-839-E-DE9-CED3757-EF.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

https://i.postimg.cc/5N3xDpTp/8-E41-FD70-3-A4-B-4310-803-E-E74-F9-D88191-A.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

[WSSix]

I really like the air intake screen. That looks great. Good job!

[tommycomfort]

Impressive work as always Mark!

[64G-lark]

Thanks Trey. It came out better than I thought it would.

Thanks Tom.

[64G-lark]

Built a aluminum hold down for the radiator. Trying out some dimple dies.

https://i.postimg.cc/3R5Stmtx/8-C7-CA566-A12-C-4-B8-E-8507-1-E5972-F22945.jpg (https://postimg.cc/Y4Rz9Gc5)

Bracket for the accelerator pedal.

https://i.postimg.cc/26DGQm5q/A90-DFDFA-B3-E3-4-E31-849-F-D688-EBD5-EF56.jpg (https://postimg.cc/cKFfWpwZ)

https://i.postimg.cc/0yhcN7R0/07106-C71-A0-E1-4-B30-AD1-A-122-E2-A72-AF55.jpg (https://postimg.cc/FYgjWdKY)

Then on to the fender supports.

https://i.postimg.cc/MHt9Z4qn/F212-F948-20-D8-4674-A320-54-A61-D22-DC15.jpg (https://postimg.cc/5QYBnsHJ)

https://i.postimg.cc/bv2V03H5/E5-A692-FE-D278-4216-96-E4-7-C93-DBD7-C14-C.jpg (https://postimg.cc/94CBCPkP)

https://i.postimg.cc/288H9z7h/E1-E190-D9-3689-4-B6-D-B1-F1-C477-E01-DE4-E7.jpg (https://postimg.cc/8s9Bjg3z)

https://i.postimg.cc/BZCYC8HJ/8-C1-E2-C78-DE02-4-D3-E-83-CC-2-DF43315-D794.jpg (https://postimg.cc/5j6S42sr)

https://i.postimg.cc/3JStPPt6/B1701-C7-A-8-A28-4677-97-F8-D87-AC6734-A73.jpg (https://postimg.cc/tY6d6mQt)

[ScotI]

Such a cool car.

[214Chevy]

The big brakes look so cool with the Weld wheels.

[Beechy]

Nice fabrication going on here......

Shotgun panels..............OEMs use panels just this shape to brace firewall to wheelhouse. They provide impact attenuation and can be tuned for progressive crumple. Have to meet FMVSS crash test.
Practically every car worldwide uses them.

:patriot::patriot::patriot:

[mc1984ss]

No more Korn bread!?

Fantastic work!

[jarhead]

Nice work!

[Mad_Monte_Carlo]

Love the detail in the fabwork.